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ELLA WHEELER WILCOX'S SUNDAY SERMON.
Autumn is the Time to Think and Been -Wicked This pent at ant Women who Have Flirted Summer can now Ke-Lcisure. THE ERA" OF STREAMERS HAS ARRIVED AND YOU SEE THEM OF. ALL DESCRIPTIONS FROM HEAVY VELVET TO THE LIGHTEST. OF TULLE. CHIFFON AND VEILING. AND NOW COME THE WINTER. HATS. Many are Made ofChenille Trimmed With Velvet Eoses Giving a Cur ious likeness to Summer . '" ' Headgear. VIEW -0OARIOI0DELS. Velvet and Feathers are Used Liber ally and High. Trimmings Continue " . ; , ; to be the Vogue. NOVELTIES H SHAPE AXD COLOB, New Tork, Oct. 20. Hats are still the absorbing topic of dress, for with the I mall jacket and the quiet skirt of fall, a woman must depend for the elegance of her toUette upon the mode of her hat and the neatness of her boots and gloves. "Well hatted Is well dressed," Is a French proverb almost trite, yet ever true. 1 The hats I can show you this week are mostly French .hats; for the Paris milliners have been generous with their models this season. The newest is the Alsaclenne, which Is pretty viewed en profile, or full face. It is made of cloth and velvet of two shades, put together so that the velvet bow is In front, set broadly over the face, so that the knot of velvet comes just over the eyebnw and the broad loops are pulled out to frame the face. The cloth is brought from the back of the hat forward to a point under the bow, . and ' thus the hat is trimmed. Its frame may be a last summer's straw, for all that it will show, though there are pretty felt hats that turn up at the front for the Alsacienne trimming, FRENCH HATS. - - Another French hat is the Versailles, which is a modified English walking hat. deep in the front and abrupt In the -back. The front brim takes a very low ' cSip, thus securing that droop which is becoming to most faces; the classic droop, the- London ladies' hatters call It- The crown of this hat is a beaver t K r 7 III - ill i t ii Ill - WJkn w. iW .ill m - -aw-BjSaM ill 111 l : . . T ITS. III . 1 1 V -A WOMAN OF MUCH CHARACTER. AND HAS BEEN OF TAT ASSISTANCE TO HE R HUSBAND IN HIS WORK. entirely untrimmed, and at the front there is a big twist of ribbon velvet securing two very large bird wings In place. That is the style recommended to home milliners. A style for which we are Indebted to the London hatters is the Albert Ed ward. It is a felt hat with crown set deep in the brim, making a fold around the crown. In this fold there nestles a roll of velvet which emerges on top in a big soft knot. Three large ostrich feathers come from under the knot of velvet; another simple style to Imi tate. This hat is to be worn back from the forehead, which may be dressed a la parte or a la pompadour. A novelty in hats is the clover hat, which is a small toque, of the most di minutive proportions imaginable. The front of the hat is treated to four -large loops of silk, well wired and fixed up right, in a way to imitate a four leaf clover. The colors may be any of the new greens and the center veins in the leaves are imitated in white floss. Or the loops may be wired and used with out veining. There is always a poke hat. Each season sees its novelty in pokes, and this year is no exception. The poke of '99 consists primarily of a hat with crown and protruding front brim. The brim is trimmed to suit the vagaries of fashion. This year it is quite won derful in its construction. At least three yards of silk is cut on the bias into strips half a yard wide; these are stiffened with crinoline and the edges turned over in such a way as to hide the lining, and blind stitched. MAKING A HAT. The whole is now secured upon the front of the hat in a most remarkable way. Taking the two strips of silk, which, it is supposed, have been made into equal lengths, half a yard wide. The ends are sewed fast to the hat at opposite sides. They are then brought forward and tied loosely into an im mense bow. The loops are pulled out and are tacked to the sides of the hat and the ends are flared as much as possible. This fashion, while conspic uous, is rather pretty worn by a fresh young face. ' In spite of the growing agitation to prevent the use of birds upon hats, they are worn more than ever, and scarcely a piece of mUUnery but sports them. The writer happened to stand In the hat department of a large store the .VELVET FLOWERS ARE VERT FASHIONABLE, AND SO ARE - BUNCHES OF VELVET, IN FACT, VELVET IS THE MATERIAL OF THE TEAR. , other ''ay , when a very fashionably dressed - -young , woman entered, and walking up to a saleslady asked for a hat "without- live bird feathers." The saleswoman brought out a round hat profusely trimmed with dove breasts which were curved around the crown and carried almost to the back of the hat. In front stood a Paradise plume. The young lady took the hat, exam ined the feathers minutely and to my surprise -purchased the hat, paying a handsome price for it. THE TRADE BIRD. After she went out the saleswoman explained to me that the dove breasts were all manufactured article, and were made from the tiny feathers which the birds shed at moulting time. They are gathered and fastened with infinite patience upon a foundation of linen of the same cojor, which is stuffed to simulate the shape of the breast of a dove. The paradise feath ers were slender feathery grasses, dyed. In this way the young woman satisfied her conscience and preserved her style. The fancy la getting back toward the darker colored hat for winter. Tou see more black hats, but in these som bre pieces of millinery there sets a rose, or a feather, or a knot of velvet to relieve the mature look which an all-black hat inevitably carries with it. The milliners are indebted to the modistes for their hat materials, for hats are trimmed with the stuff of the dresses. The modiste must preserve a yard or so of goods for the milliner to take and transform into crown, or bow, or brim trimming. Thus the hat matches the gown and becomes part of the dress scheme; and money is saved for the wearer who utilizes dress material in place of the more expen sive hat silk and velvet. Winter gowns are necessarily so much quieter than summer modes with their frills and furbelows that one can well pay attention to one's hat, HELEN WARD. (THE SHAMROCK HAT CONSISTS OF FOUR CURIOUS LEAVES SET WELL FRONT OVER A SPREADING CROWN; THE ROSE HAT IS IN VELVET AND THE ORCHID HAT IS IN STRIPED- SILK. ARTISTIC WORK FOR DEFT FINGERS. Venetian Work can be Carried oat in Simple Designs for House Decoration. It is to tlie skillful fingers of the Ve netians that we are indebted for this exquisitely dainty . and artistic work, which is within the capacity of old and young, and requires but patience and practice to become proficient. Bent Iron work is one of the most effective features of the present style of house furnishings, being employed for grills, hanging lamps, hanging vases, shades, easels, brackets, fenders, picture frames, candelabra and candle sticks. When purchased in "the shops these articles are expensive and be yond the reach of women with artistic fancies but limited purse, and as these women are very largely in the major ity, the bent iron work will be a valua ble assistant, as the materials em ployed are both simple and inexpen sive; in fact, many of them can be found in the ordinary tool chest with which every well regulated house is supplied. Although the work affords many pos sibilities for those of an artistic turn of mind. In that original designs are always advantageous and a touch of individuality always appreciated, yet for those who find it impossible so to create, patterns of almost any desired design may be procured at a nominal rate. These patterns, by the by, are most complete, being full size, and with the 'measurement for - each curve ac curately given, -thus entailing little or no trouble on the part of the worker. - The narrow strips of iron used in making the designs are very pliable, and may to bent, curved or twisted THE WORKING WIFE OF DR. PARKHURST. She Sees Callers for her Husband, and Answers his Appeals for Charity. I asked Dr. Parkhurst, the day he landed from Europe, how soon he would begin work. And he replied: "Immediately. I am stronger than ever for the fight on the same old lines." Behind him stood Mrs. Parkhurst, nodding approval. Very few even among the Doctor's parishioners, know how active his wife is in the work of reform, or how much assistance she gives her husband. Mrs. Parkhurst has her distinct lines of help in the Doctor's work, and if she were to be ill, or leave her place for a few days, it would be hard to get along without her. The first duty in the Parkhurst home is the answering of the door-bell. This rings about one hundred times a day. Sometimes, when there has been a specially important move, oftener. There are but two maids kept in the Parkhurst household; and, frequently, the lady of the house herself answers the summons when the maids are un avoidably elsewhere. All callers see Mrs. Parkhurst, un less they can show a letter from the with such ease that the most delicate fingers may reproduce the most elabo rate effects of Venetian work. When large articles are to be made invisible iron wire is frequently em ployed, in connection with the narrow est strips, in joining the parts, and when the design is completed it is given a coat of dead black paint.- which should be carefully applied over the entire surface. The artistic bracket is extremely graceful and easy, to make. The foun dation frame, made of iron strips, may be procured for a small amount, and the elaborate curves which comprise the decoration are among the simplest and most effective of this kind of work. A fairy lamp, hanging vase or cage for the feathered pets may be sus pended from such a bracket, and will prove a decided ornament to a bay window. A candlestick may be made entirely of the strips of iron, and in the produc tion of which no foundation is neces sary. The top of the candlestick may be pressed apart or together to fit any candle, and when a dainty shade is added the whole forms a chaming ac cessory for my lady's boudoir. Complete outfits may be procured for this work, but with a pair of iron shears, a pair of pliers for making curves, a pair of clinching benders and a vise the amateur to whom every dol lar of expenditure is a consideration may safely cor.imence her design, with fair prospect of success. ? -. Of the four seasons of the year the Autumn seems the distinctly moral one. Spring Is amorous and frolicsome; Summer sensuous and selfish; the Win ter wild and wicked. But the Autumn is grave and introspective. It is like some serious saint, who looks with sad, reproving eyes on the conduct- of two siren sisters and a reck less brother. But for the Autumn the year might blush for the influence of his children on the human family, but that good sister of charity brings us all to our sober senses and compels us to confess our sins to bur own souls. The autumnal season is calculated to gladden the thoughts of the gayest be ing and to give a serious tinge to the most frivolous mind. It is the season of partings and of changes; of retreating bloom and beau ty and advancing frosts and snows. The ephemeral nature of pleasure forces itself upon us whether we will or no,- as we hang away our summer clothing redolent with the . memories of vanished-- August . .afternoons and moon-washed nights. We recall the anticipations, which were packed into our trunks with those garments when they were new, and the long golden summer days which stretched before us. Now the summer is over, and its experiences, sweet or sad, are hung away in time's corri dors. Seen in perspective,; the Summer seemed long; but from the retrospect Doctor making an appointment. The hours for general, reception at the house for since Dr. Parkhurst conse crated himsel- to the public good he has been accessible to all who want to see him are from 5 until 6 o'clock in the afternoon. Just before dinner. Often there are so many that the even ing meal is kept waiting until nearly 8 o'clock,' while Mrs. Parkhurst, after finding out the errand of all, hovers fn the background to carry her hus band off to the dinner-table the min ute there is a lull in the stream of callers. I once asked Mrs. Parkhurst how long how many , months she could bear this wearing daily routine with out breaking down physically; and she said ; "Just eight and one-half months. It Is as if we were wound up to run that length of time. Then we suddenly get tired, so very tired, we must go away to rest. For two summers we bailed the streams of Norway, but it was so severe there that we have taken Switz erland since.' We, or at least the Doc tor, was the first to climb the Matter horn, you know the story, and" point ing to a fine oil painting on the walls of the drawing room "that picture was painted for him by a celebrated painter in commemoration of the feat." Next to the tiresome first Interview with callers, there comes the duty of disposing of fully four-fifths of them. An idea of what people want when they call upon Dr. Parkhurst can best' be given by a verbatim account of an hour's happenings one afternoon, just before she sailed last spring. The first caller after luncheon was a man, a rough-coated Individual, very untidy, and looking as though one of the Bowery's worst specimens had strolled up-town by accident. "I want a wood-yard ticket," said he, "or half a dozen of them I'm sure I need 'em bad enough," this with an ugly grim ace. "I am sorry," replied Mrs. Parkhurst. "but I have no more wood-yard tickets now. Later in the fall, maybe, or next season." Then, as her eyes fell upon the worn-out shoes of the man. she asked kindly, "Are you in great need of money? And would car-fare do you any good so you can look for work? Or, perhaps, you will take this address, and apply right away. This is our Third Avenue Mission." The man took the address and left. "I feel so sorry for men looking for work," she started to say but a ring interrupted her. This time it was a very well-dressed woman who said she needed a woman to do general house work in the country, and would take anyone recommended by Mrs. Park hurst. "What a splendid chance for little Mrs. A., who called this morning with her three-year-old baby, looking for work," said Mrs. Parkhurst. This' was amiably agreed upon, and then came another ring. This time it was a girl a very shabby girl, dressed in the remnants of faded finery; and her conversation was secret, but I no ticed that she went away crying, but with an address in her hand, and car fare clutched tightly in her torn kid cloves "To the Midnight Band of Mercy." said Mrs. Parkhurst significantly. Then came a reporter for a verifica tion of a rumor picked up on the Rialto, and which was carefully listened to by Mrs. Parkhurst before she gave an an swer authorizing Its publication. And after that were other callers streams of them. . "Don't you get tired, Mrs. Park hurst?" I asked. "Tes; very tired; and when the day s work is done I must listen to the latest movements of the Doctor's societies, or how else could I act intelligently for the Doctor during the day when he is dictating letters, writing sermons and planning new work with his lieuten ants? And the work is so new for me. too!" Mrs. Parkhurst spoke truly! . The work Is indeed "new" for her. She was born a banker's daughter in the town of Northampton, Connecticut, and when she married the young professor in the Williston Seminary at Easthampton, it was a distinct fall for her In the social scale, so far as mere dollars were con cerned, for however much talent the young teacher had, he could boast small worldly fortunes. Then came two years of study atXelpslc, the taking up of a clergyman's profession, and in a few years the young professor was a minis ter of the gospel with a career ahead of him so his friends said. Until 20 years ago the summer visit ors of Lenox sat under the preaching of "Mr.. Parkhurst," who even then drew crowds to the mountain church; and, then came the call to the Madison Square PreBbyterhin Church, where a brother of te Dtetor directs the music, and - more ' millionaires gather every Sunday evening than In any other church in the city. Mrs. Parkhurst, as Ellen Bodman, was the. prettiest girl of her New Eng land town; and as a mature matron she is. very beautiful. She is large, with very handsome brown eyes, and a man ner distinctly distinguished. She is of rather a 'merry disposition; and were she not so busy with her husband's work, would be a great ornament to any society she might seek. Mrs. Parkhurst's summer mountain trip and the stay at Switzerland have greatly benefitted her. There is a rosy tint in her cheeks, and . her eyes are bright. She smiles courageously, as aha echoes the Doctor's words: "I am stronger than ever for the fight on the same old lines 1" ELLA WHEELER WILCOX SATS THIS IS THE MORAL SEASON WHEN TOU CAN REPENT AND BEGIN OVER AGAIN. ive view it has been brief indeed. To the very young, life is like a long golden Summer, but those who have passed its noon mark realize its brev ity. Always at this time of the year there are certain facts which must force themselves upon the most phlegmatic mind and penetrate the dullest per ception. Foremost of these facts is the con sciousness of the utter folly of pur suing pleasure through selfish paths. The man or woman who. obtained a TATTOOING THE ARMS OF PRETTY GIRLS. A New Fad in Society and the Strange Devices and Odd Extremes to Which it is Carried in Color and Design. Since a Newport belle appeared upon the sand in her bathing suit and showed a well rounded arm, still sore from the prick of the tattooer's needle, there has been a steadily growing fad for tattooing, a fad which, while it has detractors, finds many who think it a neat one. An anchor of delicate blue, a sham rock leaf, an arrow of straw color, a heart of red or even a tiny dog, shaped, as one fair young woman has it, like her own pug dog, may be a pretty ad dition to the arm's attractions. The fact that the tattoo is perma nent is a detraction, but one that weichs little for, after awhile, it be comes a feature, one that would be greatly missed could it be erased. True, there is another objection. The tattooed one will bare her arm at even ing occasions and the tattoo will show. But, she will tell you when you men tion this, that she always wears gloves, and that the tattoo mark is small and pretty and is an addition, if ever the arm is uncovered after the dance. A GIRL'S WORK. It was formerly only the Hindoo who could properly perform the tattoo; or the old sailor taught by a Hindoo. But this has been exploded in the ac complishments of the very up-to-date breadwinner who has learned to tattoo with skill and who uses the instru ments and the pigments with a quick ness that can not be equalled by the Indian. The society tattooer is much more merciful than the Hindoo. Having all the arts of a woman and the requisite knowledge of the physician, she can tattoo without pain. The Hindoo is so abrupt, even brutal, in his methods, that the victim faints with pain after the first fifteen minutes, and few can stand the pricking for more than five minutes. With a sharp needle, dipped in the pigment, he takes the arm in his hand, pinches it a little and begins th& cruel Jabbing. Each time the needle touches the flesh it sinks a quarter of an inch and an excruciating agony is present from the beginning to the end of ' the operation. The society girl Who tattoes has a different method. She works with medicine to assist her. At the begin ning she gives her patient a dose of bromide to quiet the nerves. If the patient wishes to do so she can take it in whiskey. That nerves her up to the sticking point of bearing what is to come. Then she takes a small bottle and, from the depths, she dips a little fluid upon a sponge. It is cocaine and she brushes the skin with it, waits a mo ment, and applies it again, until there is no feeling in the spot which is to be tattooed. It is the same treatment as a local application of cocaine to the eyes which the merciful physician deals out when a foreign body is to be taken from the sensitive orb. Then, quickly, the little needle is taken up and the work of tattooing be gins. As rapidly as possible she runs aroupd the outside to make an outline of the figure which has previously been marked out upon the skin. Then she THE SOCIETT TATTOOER AT WORK WITH NEEDLE AND PIGMENTS UPON THE ARM OF VHER VICTIM. .Summer's amusement at the cost of an other's comfort or happiness and at th sacrifice of his or her own duty musi hear the voice of conscience in the wail of the Autumn wind and find a symbol of dead gayeties in the dried leaves un der foot. People who have ridden roughshod over the rights of others and pushed principles aside like straws in their pursuit of pleasure must be asking their own hearts at this time of year the sad question, "Was it worth while?" There are certain old platitudes which we may ridicule as time-worn and out of date at every other, season of the year, but which come home to us as eternal truths in the Autumn twilight. We realize that nothing pays in life which takes us outside of the direct path of duty, and that any word or act of ours which harms or hurts another human being is an injury to our own highest interests. It is on the first chilly Autumn nights, when in the small hours wa draw an extra cover over the couch, that we lie awake with sorrow in our hearts for all earth's suffering poor, and resolve that we will do more for others and less for self in the days to come. And in the Autumn, more than dur ing any other season of the year, do we appreciate the real blessing of life, home and human love and tender ties. Tes, surely Autumn is the moral sea son. ELLA WHEELER WILCOX. d?ps her needle in the fluids and pricks, one prick as close to the other as pos sible, and the whole laid together in a way which, when completed, will form a tattooed figure. NOT SO PAINFUL; If the cocaine runs out it is renewed by another application and the tat tooer works to the end of the job with out giving uneasiness to her patient. One of the best tattooers in New! Tork, a slender, pretty girl, with as many engagements as she can fill, says: "I find that it is better and pleasanter to tattoo in the pores. Tou will notice that the skin has a number of tiny de pressions; holes they are under the mi croscope. These are the pores of the skin, the same ones that become clogged in the face. And into these pores I stick my needle. I find that, when the tattoo is complete, the pig ment spreads and makes a broad, even color quite equal to the color produced A BRACKET WHICH MAT BE USED FOR ONE OF MANT PUR POSES, SUCH AS SUP PORTING A HANGING BASKET OR A HANG ING CLOCK. THIS DESIGN MIGHT BK USED FOB THE CORNER OF A DOOR WAT OR FOR A WINDOW, IN- i STEAD OF A STAINED GLASS PANE. by pricking oftener. It is less trouble, not nearly as tedious, and gives aa good results." "What are the favorite - tattoo de signs now? Well, you know that just at this time everything is the Sham rock. I think I have tattooed as many as twenty tiny green leaves in the last month. , "The Columbia is also a favorite, but few have the patience to sit while i, tattoo a whole yacht. j "The American flag? Of course It ia popular. I do a great many flags." ... 1 Si