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I: A 7 XL. .HONOLULU ?TAR;BULtEXnf, 8ATURDAY;A;UGFST, 22, 1914. ,. 66 THE imzm THE 99 A!AAAMav ;A' AvJ :-,,.Vj, .'.,iN ' . Ag AAAA ;.; f J-J .... T'vT" I . . y-v A. v .'i.i ,t jTsnt t 1 v - - J ; , i . : ' ' v V ? t i ':. ;V.-: "kv-' 'x : ' :L- ; ' ' ' - - ' " . .,' '.. v ; P v m mm . V p . , .... , , v , , . . ' ' ' " 1 ' 1 ', s : ' - . !- ' ' " j '' ' -a' -:"v ' . -v '( -r' -.-r' .-..'i ' A M7 :.: CA;A;' 55d 1 -r f Z: 4,4 A--:':: . "' 4 k1 is : y MAY WILMOTH. .- , fX caption -of : this article 1 ) iho titr -r n 4hfthk' rl!tn bv Sem, the 4 most' amutint. r but .at the same time moat ma.- itclout, caricaturist: ot -Pi-Tin. ' ile thir.ka that to laush at a fashion U tbe purest wax ct 'ref ofminff It." ! ';' ; "t" : But I will let Sem tell .r you" all about IL. Tarls be exckUma "Is co- Ins . through a terrible crisis ot bai ! n r.t-jlon,. but'fcicept Torittiese few se lect ones most of the bouses pour fortW all eort of. ecceMflcltles. which "are quickly afloptetf and rircolated. ' -They positively look like aa ' en. jomoloslcal confr-ss; like stranre ina. sects,' beetles and rrasshoppers, wtth their heavy-abd,omena,'Rlnnylegs and Ibngr' antennae upoa theli"" heads.-. Th4 fashion' 6T eiresstve panniers and Vo tarte.,- Fashlqn Is abandoning herself JantsT has4 rlvW. intra ' rldlculoue . sil j without testralnt to ;he wildest, phan-'thouettes "thsff can" bevresaraed ,y,an itasies of a. 'Jls ordered .-..Imagination? art 1st tonly, as a .caricature of whata e r ?!3 thetriselrea ? aloorrorrt 5 the J , Co touch for-' feeih land i-ther: . Par I Ins the embroidery -pt. the $klrt V Un- risian women. - we don't have m. like f der this tunic and extendinr: entirely that tn lhla country.: The pretty styles j BJtmnd '.the skirt is t a sash; of ;, taffeta pictured here Miare'rby, ho ;roeaSi the i rlbbon-whlch could: be'of any'colortlie exsff seraiea.-. swnpueiies ; wnicn r ; ne French women' affect, -and jnot to Tears has' ths hair dressing- been .sol simpJe as it. hpreaent.. .time, an example, .of -Tae gown! at the extreme; left la j buHtNof lovely machine embroidery so nn.e.ana aoeer. tnavne worK iook al most Uke han3fwork - 'Over-ah 'under skirt developed ;tr the 'embroidery is Rome cf the treat couturiers, a Is true, woman should look like,-. a - V colof ' showlnr',v prettily v through rthe? openwork of the embroidery; .?. ; A;. ; A '' The" one :; next to ; this embroidery rowa - is : araopg' the y,vtyV loveliest net and . shadow lace. Tojti&lce It more summery it. has; little wreaths 6f - pnk and blue flowers around the tunic., and across the. front of. the girdle pink or blue glraie tied Jn a i?6W in the frpnt confines the bodice, which "Is ctt "on wearer,. might- desire .and .Is ..tied - in 'a bow in - the ' back.' i; Th 4blouse. " which Is nore jlk'e Van ,Xj"."iaclit.'' has; aii J loose lines ;ln Vimdnd faihionwnlch ;i3 linderblousef;: sneer'ebiffort;- which la tstllt.a, li' rno'de. 'Ai '.: :T j "A. completed . py..; a;-gtraie ?;ox riDpon.' tne The pretty white' sailor with' Its ti?-i turned hrim is a very coquemsn . stymie iot the' .summer girl. A One ' slashing' bihk ;rose' surfounded by'the jgreeh fb- iiae is ' a3r-!thV:tfimmlhT..teqtilred.-t) sbbwn Ihli season,'! lt ?is diintlly frag-1 roakeAbis hat 'strictly rip to date anft whlcV Cem . ob32t to' la the Parisian roodea. ; . . ' . '; : : : :: .' ' ! ; ' The 4nri"wlth.';"'-tty nec's jnay- re joice th4t Mmv Jiode fcives her the prlvilegeAof revtfj-Jins this charm to the utmost, l!.puLr;;A. the haltr, quite up off the -rieCk.roilfr ,f:' into1; lJ-'rench twist smooth trti-"yia most bw coming and collinx nto an indefi nite rolCat that al- o. the' top of the head that, best ftsrt-vjA 'Ub the, outline pf the' fea.tureV, This ry' .roll may -be ...There are msnyways of making up " the lovely . bordered crapes ' and voiles that are so fashionable Just-now. but . none , so attractive , as the r.ew long : tunic shown In this machine embrold- -ered cotton- crape and the management -' of the : blouse , by . turning the. .boTder , back in a reyers effect. A vest of fillet net. matching the sleeve frills; ts set n with , snap, fasteners, easily remov-., able for.clf aning. Coral buttons and a ., coral sash match tbe tone" of the em- alt oX the natural hair A may- W fllled i broidery.. These make "a charming note wlth a'puff to mftW 't; xv4i,hiBh,and.of color .for the . summer costume. (V LJUJ UIaLw orirjoo rm U.hLUU wu ''v' i-.l:r t-..'-i t'5 MAM iuAJ L. Jr.- So tnafit business "srocen "who-were lleprlved cf the" early training ancT ed ucation supposed to be necessary have iriade such a striking"6uccess that one ipay safely say that the lack or early i dvanta'es should be no cause for d's- : 1 3uraenientt'-While 'Tt will be. much isler. for the girl who has had the tlenefit of all the training that one can AosslLly receive before she goes Into liisiness,! the one " who 'has, not been iy favored may. look at. the numbers of women who have; been suddenly thrown on' tbeir own resources and without any .early .IraihlnK for. their uork have gradually, pained a 'knowl edge of the work. which" has enabled tbem to make ai brilliant success. The4 ' school pf practical, experience may not always be an easy one, .but .If one sufficiently in earnest to make the work and by. reaitrm books of travet biography and,-,. those . .jofjanjj. nature which will have; a broadening'. tend- ency..-.v v A ;.A ;-.:,.'.. ..j-.A-.-A . There, axe jnany methods .by which a girl. .may ground- out: her. education if .she has been (deprived of the early advantages. ,. Many of the most famous men- and women have made the '. ad-, vantages for . themselves ? when the time came, and have .risen to a . high position through their ; own ?effoxts, but to do it ; they were alert, progres sive and energeticAVA A A . : : A CAMERA BRINGS- - V0MAN MONEY The? artistic' woman ' who -wants 'to earn Docket monev durinV th sutiimpr most of the ' opportunlUes V offered j without .interfering; witi her. summer there It is unexcelled. .. . L.t" - f:-,. .i. . - . U I. wldnrri in -America todav with V4-""" 3 cuuioine, doiu Business its system' of public schools that a and. pleasure whUe doing so.. A cam ' boy or girl ' is deprived or the afl- "e,ra vof JaIr Izfr is a that she needs. vantages of the '-grammar schc-)!, .at " sof1nas f artist, taking least. Wherever there, has been auy r TV"i 1 rc' wn,fn lack in the education the nisht schoo s "":;roruy . . 7t,r X in most of the cities wfll supply; that Sfj Iti. a tt.t vii cow. Duiocat um grows with .use. RECIPES TRIED AND FOUND VERY UGGESSFUL BY sAiltti'X' V0MEN:0FiH0N0LULU FOR THE UNEXPECTED GUEST has' unexpected lmVIDUAL STRAWBERRY AA SHORT-CAKES, y-1 One -sometimes guesta when the. larder is Tow: A : pes sihlft siliitlon nf thp difflrultv is to re- RECIPES RECOMMENPEDYMRSSARAH keeping stores jut in one-half pound rjf cheese cut in hand. Modern houses are not buwt into small pieces. As it- gradually for the storing- of.- quantities of'" food melts it may1 thicken,' for ho- cheese is, supplies, but the more restricted the exactly, alike In the amount of'llquid accommodation .the more need is there it requires. . If it seems too thick,. add; store just those things which are -, v , . , , .... ' . . ?lr a1 xr rmva mwjf ti c rf n t ' -' ' more ni 11 a. n me rareoii js preierrea w u-.ua. WHITE StTGAR COOKIES. I Three cups- sugar, ne 'up' butter. " nilr and if t tw-lce, two Cuis of flour, one, cup sour, creamy three ;eggs, ; one V cup; pt 'Bugar four level teaspoons teaspoon soda, .one nutmeg. JAdd just of, baaing jwwdeii : a.i)lnth of .nutmeg; nur enougn tq moia out very soil, and,:; teaspoon of salt;. rub: in 1-3 of - '-'A " ".:- A a cup of butter: add one ggv well J A : GRIDDLE CAKES; beaten, to 2-S of a Cub of aweet milk. ' ) Two -cups of flour, two cups sour Mli-oi-a flmirir njmtrv. hVsAnt.' mil. . milk, one teaspooniul soda, one-half cut with a cookie cutter and bake : in ' teaspoon ul salt; one, eggoA : ; a;hotVoYetf 2Q.'minutes When doneJA : ' '-A,AnT s- -split, v spread , with soft butter,4 then I CORN; CAKE. : . : - with" well! sweetened ; atrawberries. One egg, one cup sugar; (seant), one Cover the lox ; layer also with straw- -,CDP :r sweet; mJlk,v one cup flour one berriesAsprkJe' generously .with.sug- CP Indian ,meal. one . teaspoonful ar and hean. over all.ArhiDDed cream: . creanr of .tartar, ; one-half teaspoonful - AA ' ; 'LEMON PIE. "A ;- One and a half cups 'sugar, one cup water, two. teaspoons flour, two lem ons. . .Grated t-Z of the lemon .rind, add the juice pf the .lemons and the yolks creamy . instead of, stringy, add one For. an impromptu breakfast, ;: we j flavors, which can be prepared in 10 ; beaten egg just before serving. - - .nave a vaneq suppiy ot reaay.coosea The' paprika : in! this recipe imakes th cheese mixture perfectly IgesU- C0?n?' L l W V f15 ble. If the. regulation toast isAmt at Jted it shculd ,be set aside osamnes - f aSSantial iart U the repast . - - '" ' ' " -' - -v jean be augmented by' sardines, while Tho W,i -fci. - w.iV jA : tinned ' tongue or brisket of beef king soup in a hurry. MDk boiled for a few minutes with grated potato and onion, and flavored with mace, salt and pepper, leaves little to be desjred. Bovril or jneat essence diluted to the proper strength, and boiled for a few minutes with Italian paste or. broken vermicelli,-: furnishes forth a clear soup, and there are many excellent , kinds of desiccated soup, of various i . makes, a euou a warance as a ame f- ' es: .k.ir-tbi-. i..-Af n w h i 'rmr,., wV f board dh. If fruit, is forthcoming. - 4 iBeat.butterAeggs and sugar together of .sboe or.slipper. .'For the accepted al'lswfJl;brtfiIln ffsh fruit, tin- the supply, of salad oil or ready mixed , too f. v . . ietktnA. .n. jieU irulta tiotlto be despised as ajeaied dress'ne. . - ' . . evenings is the A black one with the breakfast :adjunct, and of course the! Palling" a fish salad, it !a well for ; water cnly. v : - . - The providing of an impromptTi fish ; course presents greater difficulties, un less there is a supply of, salad mate-; rial on hand. Then salmon, ; lobster ; or tunna can be serted invltalngly as a fish salad.- Here again the store ; cupboard is of service, not only for producing the tinned fish, but also for ? .BAKING POWDER - BISCUIT. :C v Two cups : of , flour. twoe tablespoons Of three eesa 'and' holt Pocr into a -Shortening,;, three teaspoons baking pan lined :with pastry, and bake, Beat VPOdertwo-thirds cup of milk. cup; or. j)uiverized sugar with whites lack, and where these are not. avail able evenings with pnisIWy.' some assist; 7t . tuTc : . lr PATE GINCER . BREAD. A -new iruia me iau-, vr v'-them afterward, but she wUl.photo. ? One .cup molasses, . one-half , cup ieaspoonruisoaav oieamtnara inree or pnvate teacner or e.en aioH. Aiier Krilph vtneIr pet dogs and cats, .and the sweet.milk two and a half cups flour, - ur without moving the pan. . the grammarr ; school branches 01 nttle haunU they Jove, showing bothl one-half cup butter two eggs, one-half j ; Aa v-'r A a 1 : - ; - A study, which are really the founda- sense adaptability In,pleasingi teaspoonful of.anyind of spice pre-J , . WELSH RAREBIT.. ' V tion. a girl who has been deprived of them. Needless to say. she returna to 'f erred, one teaspoonful soda dissolved i ; Melt one tablespoon butter, add one further schooling may. gain a liberal thp clty with a well-filled pocket to re--: In two teaspoonfuls of; vinegar." Beat fourth teaspoon of salt' and paprika, education by studying and reading all sume the. art course, she has mapped; thoroughly and add one Vund of atoii. ' one-half dry mustard, one-third cup books relating to her . chosen line of put for herself... A - A A ; '; v A ed datei Bake in a moderate oven.1 milk. Stir coastantly 'and i when hot of three eggs. Pour, over pie when only takes j 3 ?'- . BOSTON : BROWN ' BREAD. I One cup graham flour, two cups" In dian meal, two cups sweet milk, one cup sour milk, one cup molasses, one bronP and th . hlark fhniwMf: and gcod fiousewife. keeps marmalade or those two shades 'are now worn with JanT' as- a .standing item. Then with all sorts of costbmes. Verv good looki an augmented . supply of .toast, even ing are the black silk stockings under-: the most fastidious guest will not feel shot with blue, green, bronze or maUve.i111 'used-. ' : ,i ; .- ..- - .;. I : and. oft course, for. satin slippers" and With, the more substantial repasts cothurnes' in delicate tones there are I ot lunch, dinner, or supper, tij value matchine: stockings.'' "Often, too, finest of a well provided. store cupboard V- s' go with.7 colored, comes more apparent, for It ;then J - white silk stockings satin slippers,, just as either white or black hosiery is. ; worn . with- Jowut shoes v in stiver or gold cloth. . ? j . Open work, iace inserted and beaded hosiery have practically gone out, but for elaborate costume? there are bro caded silk stockings, which look as if made of cobwebs in shadow lace' pat tern. ;.:.;.,;;; ..' ; A-I v --A- comes., an -"easy matter to , elaborate a.' homely meal into one . of . a more dainty nature.. , ; ; .. r ' .With soup as a foundation other food is In less demand, and sometimes the addition of soup alone will save the situation. " If there is no soup on hand, .and no stock wherewith to pre pare it, there are many .ways of ma- tb is course; to fall. back upon an egg dish.' Omelets : and - scratthled - eggs are only other names for variety, while the numerous ways of serving hard boiled or baked eggs form serious rt vaJs to tne abetter known ", omelets. " . To augment the; supply of vegetable at. .a minute's notice is not an easy matter; but if the larder ccr2ta!r.3 a pood stock pf frying, fat' tl. a faculty ( dissolves.-for it takes very Utile t'ma' to prepare a dish of chipped potatoes, " than which there is no more'rc;-!ar method, of cooking them,' since thjr accord wellwlthmeat, gaine and'pcuU try no matter whether, hot cr'coM, . While the meal is progressing tX" A. (Continued' on pass c:-ti : i j .-l A'.:A ..'-.A;-:-'. A A - ' !