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Till" SEASON OF SONG.
FASHIONS ANI> I'NOIWS FOR the HM.FYON days. Th „ Ren.l. •••'*’ •' K-.U.V >U Ore*. From .je.ty .0 ,„e 1 hr'<trr ol DludHt-- Bof.l I tclie* a* Bractlcsl Dres.m .ker.-The , nrl „~ Bonnet* - K.Ubons v-riu. Feather* Note Kffeci* in Adapted Material.- > he Mew < Made Suit. _K-diern Costume.— Artiatlo Braul ■ ifr be JKuropeau Operator. Sliupie gtyles- the Beauty otXuth in fabrics —Home- Hade Costumes. N - E wr Youk. April 4.—There are beau tUul possibilities iu the design* of the present s< ason for those who have the ante w ill and power to select and die criminate from the contusion of diver gent ignorant and experimental ideas. The changes are principally in detail end the most of them in the direction of revivals; but they are revivals of the use ful sensible and practical sort. It Is almost impossible now 10 mainrain for anv considerable length ol time a fashion wbich is only pure folly or results in burtlul distortion. Dress, as a whole, has made enormous strides toward hon , gy and freedom from exaggeration since the days of cages and forthlngales—paint aid hair powder, pomatum and patches, like stilts and corsets, which en closed the body like a wood and metal rice. Outer clothing for warmth and comlort was not possible In those days, for it It had been made it could not have reached the body and inner clothing for warmth had not then been thought necessarv for women. We owe a great deal of the encourage ment which practical ideas have received to the singular good sense and practical working lives of the women of the differ ent royalties of the world, particularly those of England. Germany, Belgium and Koumana. All these ladles are publicly . in( l actively interested in art, literary, educational afcd philanthropic work; not as an occasional whim or caprice, but as pursuits and part of the duties ol their lives. There is notone who makes a busi ness of dress; wuo carries fashion to its aeicht, who leads exaggerations or stands as the representative of expensive per sonal tastes and fashionable frivolity. Their habits and expenditures seem pro verbially, marked by moderation and good sense; the exceptions being in the cases w lie re they are bound by the traditions of sourts and unwritten social laws, and not at times or seasons under their own jontrol. it is impossible to estimate the value to the world at large of this aggregate in fluence on the side of natural, truthful, modest, everyday life, or the disastrous result of the opposite: especially in our day, when the personal acts of the great are made a matter of daily public record and individual example planted over the wide world by the unceasing revolutions of the printing presses. Many of these women would be distin guished anywhere, aud are rather sup pressed than otherwise oy the claims and exigencies ol an exalted position. This Is something which should be taken into account, tor the effect is strong and de terminate in controlling the ourrent of dress and fashion and setting it in even channels. THK SPRING BONNET has not changed greatly iu shape—often not at all—but it is more uniformly of straw and it has returned to its old loves and is trimmed almost exclusively with picot-edged ribbon and flowers. For sev eral seasons past, materials, such as fan ciful gauzes, tinseled stud's, brocades, square handkerchiefs, pieces to matoh dresses and the like, have been used tor bat and bonnet trimming to the exclusion of ribbons, and feathers have obliterated flowers. Last spring there was change, but this year it is complete. The old stock has been worked off ana the new is of a quite different character. Tne Turkish stripes, the gold and silver powder, the tinseled effects have disappeared. The ribbons are generally solid, with pretty edges; the flowers are copied from nature and the hat and bonnet itself is simple straw with a neat, ornamental beaded or other edge, but no mixture of stuffs in crown or brim as heretofore. Tne elemental ideas are few, the shapes not exaggerated, but narrow and brought up to a disproportionate height by the fork-like effects of trimming, which is set almost straight up from the side or front and consists of an upright bouquet fast ened to a ladder of bows or upright loops mounted upon a strip ot stiff muslin, which keeps the structure in position. Novel effects 111 these simple style* are obtaiued from the use o! adapted materi als and the occasional transfer of the trimming from the front to the back, wbicb, to make the copy oomplete, is fin ished with a turned up brim. Among the novelties is a bonnet which looks as if it was made of small, shell shaped leaves of bark, overlapping each other slightly and so firmly attached to •he foundation that they seem to be a part of it. The material consists in real ty ol cone leaves, selected, dried, pressed and carefully sewed on to a foundation, it Is one of the new developments of cot tage industries and very effective. The •asket straws are not socoarse and tbere m n p , reu * er than last, year. They look ell for young girls and are appropri ate trißQ med with field flowers. Mack dotted net bonnet* are made I* s ® aßon 10 wear with black toilets and they are trimmed with open jet leaves and a spray of lilies of the valle'-. a novelty in jetted hats has a transpa nt crown, shaped somethin* like an old uiman chariot. The brim is thrown up Be the yisor Irom a helmet and is stud .with small nails. It lays close to the head and has a martial effect. nsoafkT Wl " undoubtedly bo very much id ibis year, because it is tine anil neat ah u fPi >e i a,a , l ! ce ’ DOt 100 fanciful and Bn.i f * n culor to the One wools v.™ u? t f u for Btreet "'ear. The hats are 11 le changed from the shapes of two sinMoi*!, 80 ' , utain difference is occa ,, n breadth ol brim, not all round, but Sdn.oti!!' 68 , 8i(le8 > sometimes back and op.. „ ,nei * ron L but always turned up tim ,\“ES“ ounled tlle principal effect in frn.l r A m “* 1 u ® which Is arranged, back, ofthl?.,""* B ,', de < according to the trick tlnm.e 1,0 upright effects are con i..„ > lowers and ribbons are used turner! ° r [ oalh<)rß and soarfs, and the „ iv ' 11 1',! J , 111,18 ar, ‘ always laced with krassil 'yhite lilacs, spear-shaped oftf.n E apfke-forming flowers are irraenfi.?t. cted in Preference to more low thL •ii* o .?®’ because they better fol fur hnn V" . lie * which fashion ordains hat doooratlon. It Is easy, tntler o . r „' n<,,v 'dule to diverse in ft e.,i)„5 r V ,tleir faste, and if a bunch blnakr ‘ E’ °f cowslips, of delicato heather thvv . v ,V) will better suit their purposes Anhli not be out of order. ' •be old a 1 1 15 ~onnB *i which reproduced i.ii, k a " u favorite combination ot rose L'r, Krt ‘en, was made of lettuce r, e mn^ , ]®l ) 1 arp n < tT. m heads, lined with •'"w un.i ? 8 a ."d ornamented with pink Hs n.,t vi* Jerti-shaped leaves of the •tirl'nir ’ aolt i”f R . but tinted anil shaded 'ealied ‘•jots.-^ Tu , > ', ICW TAILOR mauk suits. * lii ‘'lh or urEfi’s 1 ? 10 * 1 f asbloitablo color Is a Shad)* in,. V ’lue; not tne oold. electric •"tth'ieir ,j ,,, bjvo'y color, with a warmer, V, - ->n 'V Jt appear* In line, •bs c 11111 * J*. a r ' ,n Vienna cloth and In js 'icti i. , w 110,1 Jacket* ays made, but *•“'1 i ril * . "fteu used lor dresses. w ,..„ h 1,1,14ln k H into Wy stylish aii tl tioi ~u h ?, riu * double does* or skirl I ' ,8, l **e latter opening over a skirt wi;u front or panels enriched with oxidized silver braid, in very elaborate patterns and fastened with enameled silver buttons, wnich are riveted on with minute silver nail heads. Tne sides of the polonaise are held by square pockets, winch are real aud very conspicuous; the buck is long and gracefully draped bolow the boddice, which is ornamented with depressed lines of matted silver braid, which arc outlined and inclosed by folds of the wool; show perhaps an inch iu width over the bunt but arrive at a point at the waist. This reduction of width in trimming as the lines approach the waist is a feature of the spring styles and is very becoming to stout figures. The insertion of a color in the lines of trimming on the boddioe is also useful, because effective and capablaof variety. Hold, silver, red or blue braid or gored strip may be introduced at pleasure or In accordance with the purpose or conveni ence of the wearer. Braiding is a distinctive feature of the Redfern costumes. The operators are brought from London and I’aris to exe cute the work, which has all the effect of the richest embroidery. An all-black costume Is a marvel of work and an exact copy of one made for Queen Viotoria. The braiding is executed fiat, in three dif ferent widths and in rich circular and curved figures interlocked and inter narrow front of the skirt, enriches both latched to form the design. It covers the sides of the front of the boddice, forms deep epaulette* aud cuffs for the sleeves and an ornament upon the high side of the skirt, near the waist line. A long and stylish polonaise of Windsor green olotn opens upon one side, disolosin* braided panel in green and oxidized silver upon stone gray Bengaline. The bodice shows a single diagonal revers of Bengaline, braided to match the panel and high braided collar. The newest style of pol onaise isopen in front or at the sides,and is draped in long lines from the side of the iront, which is caught in a series of folds fastened with a silver clasp. When the front Is draped the back of the skirt hangs straight. Small checks, in which there is a line ot color —wine, old china blue or brown—are made up with solid wool in the contrasting colors, the solid material forming the polonaise and foundation skirt; the check, the panels, revers, collar, cuffs, vest and the like. Trimming, with the exception of buttons, is not required. Some very large plaids appear this sea son with grounds of cream oolor and lines of old gold, brown and black. These make up Into stylish skirts, with blouse or jacket bodice, but are not fit for entire dresses. ' SIMPLER STYLES. Novelties in stripes are combinations of wide and narrow stripes In the same colors and materials. They are found in ordinary linen, in batiste aud in cottons. Tue wide stripe is used for the skirt— whiob is innocent of flounce—the narrow for drapery ana for tne full vest iu front of the boddioe, wbieh is of the wider stripe. Striped buff muslins, in high vogue many years ago. are revived. They are made straight, with two skirts, the lower one having a single ruffle about five inches iu depth, the upper hemmed. The bodice open, Y shape, crossed aDd gathered into the belt, making a diagonal line lrom left to right. The sleeves are full and gathered into a cuff at the lower part of the arm. A great deal of work is put upon wool as well as silk in braiding embroidery aud fine finish of various kinds. Daily the detail of dresses becoyie#uiore iutrioate and the combinations of elegant toilettes more dependent upon the skill aud taste of the trained worker. But in the meantime artistic ideas give currency and a certain caohet to the most simple forms and ideas. Tue merely superflous has been largely gotten rid of, and it is found better to be truly rustio than show ily and vulgarly “genteel,” or as we now phrase it, “stylish,” The beauty of truth in fabrics Is acknowledged; in time it will be de manded, and it is no longer made depen dent upon cost. Color and texture are elements <VL positive value and they are as often found in cotton and wool as in silk. This fact, and the absence of much that made clothing a weariness, affords a fine opportunity for girls to fill up their summer wardrobes with pretty gowns of their own making. A diess ot delioate cream-colored mus lin, worn by a young lady recently, was the admiration of all who saw it. It was draped upon the pointed bodice with esprit net and belted with wide watered ribbon which formed a bow from whioh her fan was suspended. “Never looked so well in your lile.” said every one, to her evident delight. “Who made your dress,” finally asked one more curious than the rest. “Made it myself. Bought the muslin for 10c. a yard." Whole thing cost less than $3,” was the whispered reply. Materials were never cheaper than they are to-day—not even “before the war.” Fine oheviots, in the almost invisible gray and white and brown and white cbeeka, are sold for 59c. per yard, 44 inohes wide, less than half the former price. Surah silks at f I and $1 25 will outwear gros grains at s2,and wools of every grade are offered—soft, serviceable, adapted to all seasons and ranging in price from 255. to the cost of rich silks. Cottons and thin all-wools afford the bestopportunities for experimental work. Twelve yards ot any simple material and a paper pattern are all that is needed. Ruffles, cotton lacs trimmings, the loop ing and bunching have all disappeared, or if still retained only make a gown or garment look old instead of new. All yoked designs are in voiue.and may be varied indefinitely by tucking, em broidery, trimming with bands of unequal length and making them deeper or not so deep, square or pointed. It is the “oaby” waist revived, with yoke attaohed. fSbirrod or corded yokes may also be used by thiu girls, and the pretty “French” waist, which is plain upon tne shoulder and only gathered in slightly at the belt, by the stout ones. The skirt may bo gath ered straight or slightly gored and ftuished with a draped apron, turned over on the left side ala washerwoman. Simple summer styles are so attractive and so much more youthful than more elaborate ones that all girls should seize the opportunity to add to their own at tractions by making and wearing theta while they oan. OUT OF DOORS. There are no changes, except In mat ters of detail, to chronicle in garments for out ot door wear. The dressy little designs of last year, with tltted, basque backs, falls of laoe or sott figured mate rial tor sleeves and ends gathered to points In Iront, reappear and divide thn honors with a visile, whiou has sleeves oomittg down upon the arm for Hs chief point ot difference. All these small gar ments are short upou the back and very mites trimmed with loops ot narrow rib bon or with silk galloons, upon which silken Icons (orin a sort of triage. The majority of tnese summer gar ments, of tne titter kind, are made of lace, or transparent material, lined with silk and lintahed with tm-se rich narrow rib bon galloons and silk,pendant passemen teries. They are pretty and effective, but not young. No mantle has ever been in vented that was girlish looking, and the general sense of this fact is expressed in tbeooulinued success of thw jacket lor young women. The Intest design of this kind is the “Colonel.” It Is made of elolh, in the new shade of gray blue, and is braided in an interlookei! pattern upon the front aud lower arms, tbe design carried up to the ni'iildei sand top of tbe arms, In the style that onlv the Colonel is privileged to wear. The finish, Irom the square braid to ailver buttons. Is an exact reproduc tion. the detail copied In every particular, except that thelining is surah, which le not tbe uaae with military coals and jackets. SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. APRIL 3, 1887 -TWELVE PAGES. The dust and travelling cloak, so far as seen, follow the late styles of last year. The backs are narrow and fitted close to the waist. The skirt, at the back, hangs full and straight; the sleeves form at once sleeves and cape and are the loose “sling” shape. A striped Bengaline, made into a cloak of this description, was lined with changeable silk—pink and yel low—producing a lovely peach shade. Velvet was used for the collar and panels at the sides. Pongee, lined with tinted surah and liulshed with velvet collar, is used for summer cloaks; but braiding or embroidery upon the material would be cooler than velvet for tbe high collar, and a lew line lines of colored silk embroidery might be used to form a border for tbe sleeves—shades of gold, brown and cream, nothing to form a glaring con trast. MATERIALS AND HOW THEY ARE USED. Bengaline is very much talked now, but few know what it is. It is pure silk, blended in the manufacture with fine wool; aud in the plain, corded labric loose very muob like velontine. being equally soft and ribbed in the same way. Tue figures show contrasts of dull, rib bed and smooth satin surfaces; are inter locked and outlined witb a still heavier cord than any seen in the figure itself. Bengaline makes handsome skirts and mantles, it is suitable for skirts to be worn with a polonaise of silk-trimmed or braided camel’s hair or cashmere. It is not very costly, but it is not cheap. It Is of the ordinary width, and costs here $2 per yard, in Paris 85c. to sl. Brocaded silks, except in small arraure figures, have quite gone out of the market. Few are shown and these at a reduced price. The rage for stripes has restored moire antique, in striped patterns, to favor, and It is largely used, not only in combination and for trim ming, but for the trains of dinner ami handsome indoor dresses, tea gowns and the like. Black moire antique is fre quently and very suitably combined with black wool—eamel’s hair for example. The silk Is used for panel or narrow front, for vest, revers or inserted bauds, outlined witn galloons arranged as loops, Tnese make ve>y styli*u black dresses, and are well adapted for second mourn ing. it is rather curious that though mourn ing is less used than formerly, crape is very much improved, Is lower in price and sold in much larger quantities. It is now no longer confined to black and white, but is made in every shade of color. The water is more decided than formerly and resists the action ot mois ture better. Crape in cream white and delicate tints is used enormously for drapery and tor millinery purposes, also as a base for exquisite embroidery. Where black crape is used for deep mourning purposes it Is used very freely. Skirts, bonnets and mantles are covered,or nearly covered with it. It is no longer a trimming, it is a material, and the wool or silk with which it is combined is hardly visible. EASTER FANCIES. Some very pretty dresses have been made up for Easter entertainments of eau de Nil or soft gray faille combined with esprit net. This light dotted net is very pretty and becom-ng, and Is therefore used for the tuokers, which are now crossed and placed inside a low or square bodice of silk, and entirely forms full or flowihg sleeves. The back of the bodice is cut In straight, narrow panels, aud from this the skirt hangs in long, straight folds. The fan of feathers and the silken hose worn witn high shoes are the exact snade of the dregs, the black kid shoes having but one stran, but very high heels. These dainty costumes—delioate, but not very expensive, and easily mado at home—are just what is needed later for dances at summer hotels and watering places. A detail of sash, whioh may be varied from silk to net and vioe versa and serves also for front drapery, requires uothiug but a straight length 01 silk or net, put on in folds below tbe line of the waist in front, and is knotted at tbe ends, the arrangement bringing them both to one side, without passing round the back of the bodice. There are only two forms of lingerie one is the habit shirt, the other the tucker. All embroidered edges, all tuok ings, are very fine aud narrow, and this minuteness of finish extends to the packet handkerchief. Borders, lace or embroid ered edges, are small and fine as possible; hut tbe newest thing, the handkerohief covered with small dots or figures, men tioned some mantes ago, is beginning to apuear more generally, and will doubt less soon be copied ami vulgarized in larger, more conspicuous designs and colorings. The interior finishing of neck and sleeves of cloth and high dresses of wool or silk has become elaborate and very ex pensive, ff purchased ready made. Kuoh ing is little used. The fashionable edges consist oi several distinct lines of doubled material out on tbe bias and sometimes inclosing a single fine platting of muslin or orepe lisse between nlain folds of ma terial. The soft twilledi silxs, crepe and orepe de chine, gauze, plain, silvered, striped ana dotted, are pressed into the service, to give variety and character to simDle folds. Pearl heads are much used tor beading, and gold and silver threads are otten used in addition to the silken floss, which has always been more or less a part of the ruched edgings. Tne hand work, especially the beading, increases the cost,and if money or noa'ness are ob jects a better way is to buy the pearl beads by the string and sew them on one self, so that they will not drop, leaving ragged ends after the first time of wear ing, as most of them do. A still more sat istactorv way is to buy all the materials by half-yards, cut on the bias, and make them to suit dresses. The cost will be less than half, the permanent value much greater. Colored cuffs and ooliars are revived for oountry wear in small checks and stripes, which, however, are very dis tinct. They are sbaoed as hetetofore. only small corners are again turned down, and some of the collars are attaohed to “habit shirts” instead of the smaller in side yokes. The cuffs are unitormly nar row. Lace vests are now made and finished with lace and ribbon, so taey can be worn outside the dress and employed to brighten up a plain one if necessary. Imitation Mechlin is best for the purpose and border lace to match. Is employed for the iabot or cascade effects, in addition to handsome ribbons of faille in art shades with pioot edge. Jenny Junk. LEMON ELIXIR. A Plemmut Leioou Drink. Fiftv cents and one dollar per bottle. Sold by druggists. Prepared by U. Mozley, M. D., Atlan ta, Ua. For biliousness and constipation take Lemon Elixir. For indigestion and foul stomach take Lemon Elixir. For sick and nervous headaches take Lemon Elixir. For sleeplessness and nervousness take Letuon Fdixlr. For loss of appetite and debility take Lemon Elixir. For fevers, chills and malaria, take 1/emon Elixir, all of which diseases arise from a torpid or diseased liver. Lemon Hot Drops cure all coughs, colds, hoarseness, sore throat, bronchitis, and ail throat and lung diseases. Price 25 ceuts. Sold bv druggists. Prepared by Dr. H. Mozley, Atlanta, Ga., In both liquid aud lozenge form. Dunlap’s new Spring Hal*. LaFar’s new atore, 29 Hull street. Th best frag, Half Hose at LaFar’s new StO.o Hutstiem. THE MODERN WOMAN. The Gowns That She Wears— Miss Purina A^ain. New York, April 2.—The modern woman is well ballasted. If she had the wings that go with the celestial qualities the romanoers ascribe to her, they had need be of good size and stoutly feath ered to lift her and her paraphernalia above the ground. 1 tried the scales upon her hat and wrap last week. The little jet and lace affair that fits so jauntily over her shoulders and looks as airy and light as the spring morning itself is no suoh gossamer, Lean assure you. It need wetgn next to noth ing, but It cau and does run as high us thirty pounds. Ten pounds is good ave rage weight for glitter and tinkle enough to make a panoply of sparkling sun points ot their owner as she walk* the streets looking like a dew drop ami feeling like a lump of load. The long aud dignified raglan that cov ers the figure from top to toe has possi bilities in the way of beads that are not granted it for nothing, and it improve* tnem to the lull. Forty pounds I have seen it weigh; there are fairy tales ot fifty, but 1 speak ouly whereof I know. The bonnet hardiy knows the meaning of avoirdupois till it makes ihe acquaint ance of that black king jet, hut then it weighs down the scales in right lordly fashion. Four pounds is little euougn tor a glittering headed crown, ad there are heads that submit to eight and nine with out a murmur lor the sake of such aregal diadem. Forty-five pounds I have known a jetted gown to weigh; plus thirty for the wrap ami five for the bonnet, the sum is a nice little total of eighty pounds for the pro verbially delioate American woman to carry about witn her on ber promenades. WOMEN IN NEW FIELDS. Glara Ney manu’s bright dauguter.Olga, bus opened a dentist’s office in New York aud is, I think, about the only woman in tuat profession in tbe city. Dentistry and medicine are in some ways closely allied, but there are hundreds of women In the former to one who is attracted to the lat ter. Miss Neymann graduated from tbe I’hiladelphia College of Dentistry a year ago or thereabouts, and is making a sat isfactory beginning in the bustuess she has chosen. Sne reports, when one ques tions her of her success, a cordial ereet iug from her brothers in tbe profession, though it is permissible to wouder if her piquant face and trim figure have not something to do with the welcome she receives. Miss Neymann’s surroundings abate a good deal of tne terror that waits ou the footsteps of thff dentist, cbiliing the blood ot his prospective viotims, for ail is sunny, homelike aud feminine to a degree. Another clever woman who is just set tling her lares and penates in New York is Mrs Florence Kaliey Wiso'anewetaky, who is, in spite of her suspiciously nihi listic name, a daughter ol Judge W. D. Kelley, of i’ennsylvauia, who has brought back with her from a tour years’ stay at the University of Zurich a Russian medi cal student for a husband, and, perhaps by dint of love or logio or both, a strong infusion of socialistic views. Florence Kelley graduated from Cor nell some half dozen years ago, a bright faced, enthusiastic girl, aud went abroad to study political economy, a science that interests lew women, but lays strong hold on the handful it attracts. Bbe began the work of a newspaper correspondent for a syndicate of American journals almost immediately, and her sketches of the con dition of the workingwomon of Germany and letters on the rise and progress of the social democratic party in the German cities attracted some little atteutlou irom tne press. Since her return to America Mrs. Wisohoewtitsky has been put in charge of a series ol publioations to be issued as the New York Labor Library, and intend ed to supply economic literature to the working classes. A translation of Dr. Johann Jakobi’s “Object of the Labor Movement,” which came out in pamphlet form ten days ago. Is tne first ol the issue toappear, and will be followed by original and translated matter from her and irons other bands. A more ambitious effort is a translation ot Engels’ investigation of tbe condition of the working olasses of Manchester, which Lovel publishes this week. Frederick Engels was a co-worker with Karl Marx, and his book, which has never yet had an English dress, is a standard in the Ger man universities. lie has himself pre pared an appendix aud a preface to bring it down to date and adapt it to American conditions, and has taken throughout a lively interest In his feminine disciple’s work. Mrs. Wischnewetsky has a mobile face that speaks ber thoughts before she utters them. She is a busy woman, full of plans for future work, and will bring a quick wit and unusual intelligence to the more radical side of the discussion of the social topics of tbe day. Dr. Lucy M. Hail, the resident physi cian of Vassar College, was one of tbe guests at tbe annual dinnerot horoals last week. Dr. Hall is not burdened with un due concern at the evil prognostications of Dr. Withers Moore brothers of his ilk. Two or three times within tne past year I nave asked her of tbe health record ol the young women in ber care, aud the inva riable reply has been that it was excel lent. Last year, she tells me, she kept a careful Ust from New Year’s Day to De cember, tabulating every hour lost by siokness by the girl students throughout the school. Wuen the twelve mouths were over she compared her statistics witb tbe corresponding health tables of tbe young men at Amherst onlv to find tbe Vassar girls appreciably in the lead. Tbe list of ailments in tht girls’ college was the shorter and the total number of days off duty looked small beside the fig ures ol tne supposedly more robust men. Study doe* not hurt the health, she says; tne girls gain flesh and color under the regimen of regularwork and thestimulus of wholesome mental drill. MISS MARIA PARI.OA AGAIN. It would be worth Mr. Howells’ while to attend a session or two of Miss Marla Parioa’s cooking class. I am not sure that he would care—any more than I do— tor the latest wrinkle in the preparation of clear soup; but If be did not get anew idea of the possibilities of a straightlor wanl, honest poise on tne part of a woman, in the bust < humor with the world aud not bothered with consciousness ol self, then the novelist is impervious to any conception other Ilian that ol the bit of nerves wun tbe labyrinth of crooks and turns in her insincere mental make up that he seems to delight In. The other duy something slipped and boiling water rau over Miss Parioa’s two hands. There was u little cry from the huudred or more women in the room, but not a sound, not a change of a muscle of the (ace of the lecluier. A little sod:* ou the raw red tlesh, a handkerchief torn in halves and the business of the hour wcui on, tbosu hands swelling into puffy balls of paiu before her bearers’ eyes. nl*e did not flinch Irom her business nor abate one Jot or one tittle of her running tireof jests till tbe morning's baking was out ot the oven and the work oi the session done. The working girls’ guilds of New York have sprung into sudden life and growth. Throe year* ago, to tbo best ot my knowl edge, tbe city hud not one. There are six or eight to-day, with three or four across tbo river in Brooklyn, and two or three in Jersey City beside. Miss Grace H. Dodge, tbe School Commissioner, is the moving spirit ol them all and has made them stand for seir-help, study und mutual good will. Tbs guilds have 3,000 mem ber* at tbs least, and their continued or ganization means growing intelligence when It is needed most, a halt-dozen ll brai tea started in a* many club rooms. SWaaanl places for evening resort with <*• aud Urea a AM*****• aud, last but not least, woman physicians regularly employed to give skilled service to all that need. It u*ed not to be good form tor a woman to go to the theatre unattended oraccoin gamed only by ladies. Free-thinking oston ventured, but etiquette-ridden New York did not. Are tbe time* ehang 'ng? it would seem that the social code Is relaxing, at least, when a Brooklyn dry good* store—that acknowledged haunt and stamping ground ol femininity —finds it to its advantage to organize a department for tbe sale of tiekets at box office rates. The times do obange, and civilization—common sense oe thanked— changes with them. E. F. U. ABOUT TEN WOMEN. Something About I heir Prominence and Their Occupations. New York, April 2.—Though Henry George has acquired suoh large celebrity his wife’s name has hardly been mention ed in tbe paper* that speak of bim so often and so much. She is a thorough borne body, devoted to her husband and their four children. She is one of the small, plump, cheery bodies that never get down hearted, and people wbo have known them a lung time say that but for her uuflagging devotion aud enthusiastic belief in him, Mr. George would never have been able to come triumphantly through the long period of straitened means aud hard work which preceded his sudden success. People who know Nina Van Zandt say that she is a very different woman from what the newspaper accounts would have one to think. They say that her love for Spies Is a genuine affection, as deep and intense as that of a girl tor her first hero. Mrs. Josephine Redding Is oue of the most successful women journalists in New York. For several yearssho has been tbe editor of the Art Interchange, and under her management that paper grew so suc cessful that its publishing company found it necessarv to establish another paper, a sort of annex, the Home Deooration, and at onoe installed ber in its editorial chair. She conducts both publications with so much ability that they have large circulations and are financially very sucoessful. Mrs. Redding is a young woman, small, slight and brown-baired, with a pretty, piquant face and charming, vivacious manners. Kate Field Is very fond of riding, and when she lived in New York always kept a horse, which never lacked for exercise and of whose intelligence and accomplish ments sue was very proud. She is a good Horsewoman and makes a fine figure on horseback. Bertha Von Hillern, who has been gain ing a good deal of success as an artist s'nce she quietly gave up pedestrian ism a few years ago, is a devoted Oatbollo. In the wilds of West Virginia, where she spends her summers, she will walk ten miles and back under the burning sum mer sun whenever the possibility oesurs of attending mass. During her brief wiuter sojourns In Boston she rises before day, walks a long distance to the cathe dral, attends the first mass and walks back to her hotel in time for an early breakfast. Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett is small in stature, but very plump, and-has a large square lace, with a fresh English oomplexion. She is very youthful and coquettish in her manners and talks in a girly-glrlish kind ot way. Those who do not like her even go so far as to say she is very affected in ber manners. Although Miss Murfree seems to have leaped into fame at a single bound, she has really been writing for a long time. It Is ten or a dozen years since the signa ture of Charles Egbert Craddock first ap peared in tbe magazines, and ever since then her stories of the Tennessee moun tains have been frequent visitors to the pages of several magazines. But they did not attract attention until the English wont into raptures over “Where the Bat tle was Fought,” and then she suddenly found herself famous. Mrs. Jenness Milier, whose system of aesthetic dross reform is beginning to at tract a good deal of attention, was once a dressmaker, but ber enthusiasm for woman suffrage was aroused, and she left her dressmaking for the lecture plat form and spoke through Massachusetts for the suffragists. She afterward espous ed Ben Butler’s cause and delivered sev eral addresses iu his behalf during bis successful campaign tor the Massa chusetts Governorship. Mrs. Julia Ward Howe has always be longed to that class of women who were dubbed “strong-minded” some twenty five or thirty year* ago, but even that reputation and berConoora philosophy too do not lessee her terror of crossing a crowded street. She will gazo helplessly across, cling to anybody who offers assist ance, stand in the middle of the street and stare at. an apprnacblng borse car and then grab up her skirts and run back just as scoffing men declare women al ways do. Lucy Stone, to all young women whom 3be meets, in any way wbatever, is the personification of motherliness. One in voluntarily thinks of her as being tbe ideal matron of a home for young girls. She Is small and inci. asing years have made her rather stout, while her fresh and rosy complexion cause her !o look much younger ihsn she reallv is. Catherine Hawkins. FASHION AND FOLr.Y. Tlie Grapo Holder the Latest Gew gaw in Society. New York, April 2.—lt Uno longer considered elegant to eat grapes with one’s lingers. Ultra-fashionables would as soon think of gnawing a mutton chop bone. A grape holder is now manufac tured in heavily embossed silver and lined with gold. It looks like a couple of thimbles and a minute par of tongs combined. The thimbles ht to the thumb and forefinger of the right hand, and by means ot the tongs the grapes are daintily plucked from the bunch and con veyed to the aristocratic mouth. It is impossible to say whether this fad will be of long duration Probably not, be cause grape holders are inconvenient, no matter how attractive they may be from an irsthetic point of view. But in any event, fashions of th'skind are harmless, and if they mean anything,lndicate merely a hyper reliuemeut. As such they are prelerahls to exaggerated bustles, toner ing headgear and costumes copied as nearly as possible from those worn by horse jockeys ands able grooms. For my part 1 shall alwayu prefer a gown made by then, st unpretending French modiste tn the Uuest garment manufactured by Kngllsh tailors. French fashions are creu.ed lor women, English fashions for men. Thera can bno compromiso with out toe evolving of a monstrosity. It Is just as logioal for men to sew draperies and lace ruffles on their trousers as for women to array themsslves In cutaway ooats, waistcoats, masculine shirt collars and that ..ideons art cle of dress called an ulster, which makes the most grace ful woman shapeless and awkward. And the present borrfble combination of tlgut littlDg ulster and magnified bustle bsfflee description. I.et anybody with an observ ing eye and au ordinary sense of the beautiful look at It. It le doubtful if *u ulster ware aver really intended to be worn by women. In any ease It was never meant to be put over a bustle. < LR Lanza. BORSFOKU'S ACID FllOaf’llatk In Weakness of the Slum nh l>r. U. I*. McClure, Kantoul, 111., says: **| have successfully used It In dineasc* •rising from a weak, coudiuun ul Lku digestive apparatus.” Swtft’o Sprrifir. IBffiHEMDS, GATH EE IN!? RODT9 7^) f roSTHEI&HDHLCTIJBEDP pM vf Mkmmi- \ & Sin-. V^^Bdmk THE BLOOD. SBBSIEm M.-=- ATLANTA. GA..U.5.A. • ’ ForSja7e7>rrt7ll)T7iggistii LIVING WITNESSES! . • . DAWSON, GA., DKG. 7, 1886. for fully nine years T had catarrh. For five year* I had it in the very worst form, how obnoxious that is I need not rocount. I was under treatment of one of the most colebratei Eye, Ear and Throat Thyaicinns In the United States, but ho was unable to do mo any good. In despair I resorted to numerous patent medicines that I saw advertised, but with no avail. Finally, about six months ago, I began to take S. 8. 8., In sheer desperation, but with little hope and no faith in it. But to-day I am comparatively well; Indeed, I have been so bene filed by the S. 8. S. that, although skeptical of its merits, I am compelled by the benefit 1 have derived from it, to testify to its unquestioned curative powers in catarrh cases. The best compliment I can pay it is that I have recently recommended It to a number of my warmest personal friends. MBS. E. C. KENDRICK, lilr. 8. It. Garris'Good I.uck—A Freight Agent's Successful Investment of a Sinai Sum of Money. Mr. S. R. Harris is well known to nearly all the business pooploof Savannah, and to many others throughout Georgia. Ho is the obliging freight agent of the Savannah, Florida and Western Railway, at the Central Railroad wharf. Ho has recently gotten largo returns front a very small investment, of which he tells lu the following communication: SAVANNAH GA., JAN. 8, 188 T. Swift Company, Atlanta, On.— Dicak Sifts: ••Over a year ago I was afflicted for six months with malarial poison. This was accompanied hv Dyspepsia, and for four months I could retain absolutely nothing on my stomach save a little oatmeal, which I bad to take three times a day to sustain life. I was reduced to such a low state that the most eminent physician of Savannah pronounced me to be In the last stages of consumption, and that my death was only a question of a very short time. I can name this physician should any one desire it. Finally, when I, too, had about given nj) hope, I began to take S. 8. 8, as a desper ate and almost hopeless experiment. I bad taken almost every medicine 1 could hear of, but none bad done me any good up to the time l began taking 3. S. 8. Immediately after using np one large bottle of the Specific I began to improve, and. when f had used up six large bottles, I was entirely cured. Now, I can eat and digest anything, and my health in perfect.” Yours truly, 8. R. HARRIS. CAVrioN To CONSUMERS.—Swift’s Specific, like every other good remedy, is imi tated and counterfeited to a large extent. These mutations und substitutes are gotten np, not to sell on merit, of i heir own, but on the reputation of our article. Of course all that thesa Imltaiors gel Is simply stolen from us. But the public who buys ihem is the greatest sufferer. Beware of these Mercury and Potash mixtures. The Mercury seems to sink into the bone*, and the I’olash drives the poison Into the system, only to lurk there and aitack the tender organs of Hie body, as the lungs, the throat, the nasal organs and stomach. Hundreds of peo ple have lieeu made deuf, and a great many blind, by the use of Mercury and Potash. Beware of Mercury ami Potash Mixtures gotten np in imitation of our SPECIFIC. A few grains of Sugar of Mad dropped into a gln-is of theso imitations will cause the poisonous drugs to fall to the bottom and show the danger of using them. SWIFT’s SPECIFI ,is entirely vegetable, and is the heat tonic for delicate ladies and enildren mid old people in the world. THE SWIFT SPECIFIC CO., Dkawxb 3, Atlanta, GA. <rvrte. fiMER 9 Million worn dnringthe past six year*. This marvelous success is due— -Ist.—To the Superiority of Coniine over all other materials, as a stiffener for Corsets. Bd.—'To the superior quality, shape and work manship of our Corsets, combined with their low prices. ' Avoid cheap imitations made of various kinds of cord. None are genuine unless “DR. WARNER’S CORALINE” is printed on inside of steel cover. XiOiiiD Vm.tS i 1.. 11 1 1 : <i Ruby^Gudinc The exact color of Fngllsb Sterling Oohl. PRICK 50c. Died by over l.jeo Manufuci urert and (Jilderi. These splendid products have been before the publio since 18111, and they Imve invaria blr been awarded the highest prize wherever exhibited They were used to decorate the splendid domes of W. H. Vanderbilt, Judge II it ton. Gen. Grant, and rn-ny other wealthy and distinguished New Yorkers. Tliey arc ready for mtlaii.. use and may be used by the most inexperienced ainst' nr. FOR I.ADlKd.—Hither of the above is in valuable fort,tiding Frames, Furniture, Cor nices, Baskets, Fans, Photos, Bilk Mottoes, Decorative Fainting, etc. Any one can use them. Ask for Williams’ Gold or Ruby’s Gilding, and refuse ail substitutes. Sold by all Art He lers and Druggists. New York Chemical Mfg Cos., t K.4th t„N.Y. [Father will be sent by mall forte extra.] JRrfttriU. TANSY PILLS Never fall 10 afford speedy and certain relief. Mors than 10.000 American women use them regularly. Guaranteed aunero ii I all others or cash reiuuded. If your druggist don't keep ”W ilaox's Com pound Tansy Till,.’’ accept no worth hm nostrums said to be ’ just as good." but send 4c. for sealed particulars and receli the onlv absolutely rsllably ferae yallfpapg. Sou’h Florida Railroad* CENTRAL STANDARD TIME. ON and after SUNDAY. March ?0. 1887„ trains will arrive and leave as follows: ' ‘Daily. tDaily except Sundays. iDailr except Mondays. Leave Sanford for Tampa and way stations *lO :oam and *lT4:4opm Arrive at Tampa *8:40 pm and *18:50 pm Returning leave Tampa at *9:50 am and *TB:Copni Arrive at Sanford * 8:30 m and V; 1:00 am Leave Sanford for Kissimmee and way stations at f5 00 nnt Arrive at Kissimmee at +7:oopm Returning leave Kissimmee. -Hi: 25 ant Arrive at Sanford +8:20 aa •||Steamboi Express, •li West India Fast Mail Train. BARTOW BRANCH. uailt. Lv Bartow Junction— . „ 11-88 am J:10 and 7:18 pm Ar Bartow 18.85, 8:10 and 8:15 p m Kctarning Lv Bartow— -9:50 a m 12-50 and 5:30 p m Ar Bartow June 10:50 am 1:40 and 0:39 p m PEMBERTON FERRY BRANCH. Operated by the South Florida Railroad ♦Leave Bartow for i’emberton Ferry and way stations at 7:lsam Arrive at Pemberton Ferry at 9:45 am •Returnlngleave Pemberton Ferry at 5: 5 p in Arrive at Barlow at 8:25 nm (Leave Pemberton Fcrrv 7:ooam Arrive Bartow „ m ■(■leave Bartow l :10 n m Arrive Pemberton Ferry ”” 5:15 SANFORD AND INDIAN RIVER R. lfl| I.t * ves Sanford for |U9 ' '.cChariaand way ‘na fl0:15 a m and s:io^H .(< 8 Luke Charm. 11:45 am and U:4o^^| .cturning— Leaves Lake Charm.. 6:00 am and 18:30 Air: vus nt Sanford 7:40 am and 2:19 SPECIAL CONNECTION*. M%j Connects at Hanford vi I ii tin: Sanford I I :’i River Railroad for Oviedo and <ui i nke Jessup, wlin the People’s Line Del ary-i’.aya Merc inis' i.iuc of P" T T. A li. VV. Hy. for Jacksonville ul. .ri'eruicdiale |xnnts on the St. river, and wdh steamers for Indian river iBPI the Uniier st. John’s. At Kissimmee with steamers for Forts My ers and Bassluger and point* on Kissimmee river. At Pemberton Kerry with Florida Southern Railway for all points North and West, and at Bartow with the Florida Southern Railway lor 1 rt Meade and uoint, South. STEAMSHIP CONNECTIONS. Connects at Tampa with steamer “Marga ret” for Paiiua Sola, Uraidentown, Palmetto, Manatee, amt all poiula on Hillsborough and Tampa Bays. Also, with the elegant mail steamships “Maaootte' and ’■Whitney,” of the Plant Steamship Cos., for Key West and Havana. Through tickets sold at all regular slatlona to pomte North, East and West. Iluggage checked through. Passengers for Havana can leave Sanford on Ltm'ted Went India Fast Mall train at 4:40 p. m. (stopDlng only at Orlando, Kiaaim moo, Bartow Junction. Lakeland and Plant City.l tiesday, Thursday and Saturday, con necting same evening with steamer at Tampa. Y\ 11.DUK Mt'GOY. General Freight and Ticket Agent. JMtitXttl. _ nmm rwMy find a jfiiVyt *ad our© In the 5-.1i.. promt.nr rh krd. TKKATIWS. j£trt7i.ws ll|H7 aitti k' M Iglfii * FOR SALE BY ALL LEAOING MERCHANTS. WARNER BROTHERS, 359 Broadway, New York City. 11