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THE POLY 0j P U BL1S1IK1) WUHKLV, AT HONOLULU, OA HIT. SANDWICH ISLANDS. J. JAItVKS, Kdihr. SATURDAY.. MARCH '21, mi. Vol. 1. TVo. 43. f F. 1. K 1). i IVom tli; New Yorker, j TIIH OIIIKJON TFKUITORV. ! riu,iir, Historical and Political, on the1 N'dith West ('oast of America and the I lAdjiiccnt I erntorics: 1 Unstinted by a ma) Rind centra plural view of those countries. iy HoiJKiiT (iiikenmow, translator and h- irarian to the Department of State. 1 vol. vo. cv York, ilcy St Putnam. r.fio.v is the most recently discovered Dorado, rrom the time of the cxpe-j ion of Lewis and Clark to the mouth; -i i I ! T ; t c (1 tlie iouiUHia jumt, u succession oi tivollcrs have described its skies as the; j'falitcst, its soil as the richest, its scene-, as tlie most beautiful and its climate the most enchanting of any in the ; brkl. Some few dissenting voices have i H?cd been raised, but an almost unani- bus sentiment has prevailed that the tural beautv of the country, and its oth- advantages and attractions, must in Jio make it the seat, of empire and of f atness on tlie Western Continent. Re lit discussions between our own and for- ;u governments, and a prospective con versy between the United States and cut Britain and Russia, in regard to ju nction and boundaries, have led to a eper interest than was felt before in all (it relates to the North West Coast and adjacent territories ; and the appcar- c of a work like the Memoir before us. pared by direction of the Government I embracing all the authentic informa- 'An that was accessible, must therefore imarid much attention. But a small portion of the Memoir is otcd to the climate and topography of country. It is designed rather to ex it the origin, nature and extent of the I yeral claims to jurisdiction, in order to rd the means of correctly estimating (fc justice of each. In prosecuting these ejects, the author found it necessary to :e the whole progress of discovery and tleinent, not only in the central Pacific rritorics claimed by the United States, t also in those farther north in which tj; exclusive right of the 'Russians to form ciablishmcnts has been recognized by other Powers, and in the reirion ca ed ilifornia, on the South, which consti- es a part of the Mexican Republic, ith this view, the original authorities re carefully examined and compared hi Mr. Grcenhow, and the facts thus cli cked have been related concisely or at Ick'tli, as their general importance or Qir bearing upon the chief objects of the Ucmoir appeared to require. From all Cfe accounts of expeditions for trade or wcoverv, facts have been drawn, and are lire presented in the form of a regular I urrative, so as to constitute a complete! I tory ol the Western portion of our con l ent, i if,' to use the words of the wri- ' it be allowable to speak of the history a country which still remains in a state nature.' 3 The whole region w atered by the Co- ibia River is known bv the name Ork- (Jx. It extends along the Pacific Coast pre than four hundred miles, and pro fits in all that distance but two harbors shipping. These were discovered by pt. Gray, of Boston, in 1702. One, f most Northern, is in latitude lf 58, 'I atlbrds a safe anchorage for small ves-s- The other is at the mouth of the kinibiu River, about thirty miles south of the former. The Territory drained by must always suil'cr from the extreme dry thc Columbia presents, according to the ness of the Summer. The products which Memoir, a constant succession of moun- ripen earliest sustain the least damage, tain ridges ami rallies, or plains of small , but those which come late are often in extent. Beside the Rocky Mountains, ijurcd.' " there are two principal ridges, running; of i,0 vfd f this region, the same nearly parallel to one another and the acute observer savs : coast'. The country is thus divided into j TIl0 tiplamls' Ure tolerably .rood, but three great regions which tinier mate, .-, lhe (.()st J lh(i CM0..n;ous rowvU ally in climate, sod and proihif'.tions. I op timber on them would be bevond their lhe first region, or low country, is that h . k u ()Q aml (fJ uow between the -coast and chain of mountains! of cr(; g hv o!)1;ii!u,1 1)V idling the nearest to the sea ; the second '7',,n ,S : trees ; and it must be removed or burnt, between the mountains nearest the sea . . , ' . r ., . . ; . iwl,.lwi ,tw , . . .... ., 11 i i i,i ; the labor ot which is ne ond the conccp- and the middle ridge, called luc Blue , t,n ,. ,t,i ,,,. .,. , Mountains ; and the third region, or high countrV, is between the Blue Mfjuntains;, and the Rockv 'Mountains. visions are crossed by the Columbia Riv er, the main stream of which is formed in the middle region bv the union of several branches flowing from the Rocky Moun tains and receiving in their course supplies from innumerable smaller tributaries drain ing the intermediate countries. Of the chain of mouniains running nearest to the Pacific, Mr. Wyetli, in a letter written in '.$ and quoled by Mr. Grcenhow, uses the following language : u The traveller going West f from the Blue Mountains sees the high points of the California Mountains, about one hun dred and sixty miles distant, some of which rise about sixteen thousand feet above the level of the Pacific. All other views in America sink into littleness in comparison with this. From one spot, I have seen seven of the high points of this range, extending from North to South, their perfect whiteness and steep conical shape causing them to appear like huge sugar-loaves." ests of the United Slates, There are. inii'icnr lu- 1 1-u : !! HMr I I' Mil til- 'a l; All the i ; : , anil c.iC!iMe I'M u:v; iui.iuujii i i ne Of the valley of the Multnomah, the Memoir remarks : next, centurv, which being chiefly on the second bottoms of rivers, are extremely fertile and above inundation.' The for ests in. this part of America, are, from all accounts, magnificent. Ross Cox de scribes a fir growiiig ;:ear Fort George', or Astoria, on the Columbia, about eight miles from the sen, which measured forty six feet in circumference at ten feet from the ground, one hundred and fifty feet in lemith, before? giving off a branch, and not less than three hundred feet in its whole height. Another tree of the same spe cies, is said to be standing on the batiks of the Umqua, the trunk of which is fifty seven fett in circumference, and two hun dred and sixteen feet in length, below its branches. Cox adds, that prime sound pines, from two hundred to two hundred and eighty feet in height, and from twen ty to forty in circumference, are by no means uncommon' ' Of the Blue Mountains, and the Mid dle region of Oregon the author proceeds, "The Blue Mountains extend from North to South, Ihrough the whole terri- " The climate of this region is more fa-' tory of the Columbia, between the I lock v vorablc to agriculture than those of anv Mountains and the chain which border other parts of Oregon, although it is cer- the coast. Their course is not so regular tainly adverse to great productiveness, j or clearly defined as those of the other The summer is warm and very dry. From i chains ; and they appear to be broken iu April to October, while the westerly winds J to several ridges, some ol which run lo prevail, rain seldom falls in any part of; wards the Rocky Mountains on the Last, Oregon; during the other months, when while others join the westernmost chain, the South wind blows constantly, the j These mountains are steep and rocky, rains are almost incessant in the lower re- generally volcanic, and some of them cn gion, although sometimes the dry season '.red with eternal snow : they are crossed there continues longer. Farther from the by both branches of the Columbia, which Pacific, the rains arc less frequent and also receives several tributaries from the abundant; and near the Rocky Moun-; valleys on their western sides." tains they are reduced to a few showers j : The Middle Region of Oregon, be in the Spring. In the valleys of the low ( tween the mountains nearest tlie coast on country snow is rarely seen, and the the West .and the Blue Mountains o:i the ground is not often frozen, so that, ploudi-j Fast, is more elevated, more dry and less ing may generally be carried on during j fertile, than the Low Country. It con the whole Winter. In 18.'M the Cohun-: sists chiefly of plains, between ridges of bia was frozen for thirteen days, but this j mountains", the soil of which is generally was principally in consequence of the ac-' a yellow sandy clay, covered with grass, cumulation of ice from above. 1 This small shrubs, and prickly pears. Timber country,' says Mr. Wyeth, ' is well calcu- is very scarce ; the trees', which are small, latcd for wheat, barley, oats, rye, peas, I and of soft useless woods, such as cotton apples, potatoes, and all roots cultivated wood, sumac, ami- willow, being only in the Northern States of the Union ; In-! found in the neighborhood of the streams, dian corn does not succeed well, and is j The climate during the summer is uni an unprofitable crop. The yield of wheat, I versally represented as most agreeable and with very poor cultivation, is about fifteen 1 salubrious ; the days are wa"rm, and the bushels of the best quality to the acre, j nights cool ; but the want of moisture in Horses and neat cattle succeed tolerably the air prevents the contrast of tempera well; the Winter being mild, they are ! ture from being injurious to the health enabled to subsist upon the produce of the The rains begin later in the year, and end open fields. Hogs live and multiply, but! sooner than in th" Low Countryand they cannot be made fat on the range of the j are less constant and heavy." country. 'The agriculture of this region i Few attempts at cultivation have been made in this region, and thev have not been, upon the whole, successful. Wy eth conceives that ' the agriculture of this territory must al.vas be limited to the wants of a pastoral people, and to the im mediate vicinity of the streams and moun tains : and irrigation must be resorted to, if a large population is to be supported in it. This country, which a fiords little prospect for the tiller of the soil, is per haps one of the best for grazing in tho ! world. It has been much underrated bv travellers who have only passed by tho Columbia, tlie land along which is a col lection of sand and rocks, and almost without vegetation : but a few miles from the Columbia, towards the hills and moun tains, the prairies open wide, covered with a low grass of a most nutritious kind, 'which remains .rood throughout the vear. . In September there are slight rains, at I which time the grass starts; and in Oc itobcr and November there is a good coat i of grass, which remains so until the ensu ling summer ; and about June it is ripe in the lower plains, and, drying without be ing wet. is like made hay ; in this state it j remains until the autumn rains again rc jvive it. The herdsman, in this extensive j valley, could at all times keep his animals j in gf'l grass, by approaching the moun i tains in Summer, on the declivities of ; which almost any climate maybe had: jaud the dry grass of tlie country is at all timer; excellent. It is in this section of the country that all the horses are reared for the supply of the Indians and traders in the interior. It is not uncommon that one Ind an owns some hundreds of them. I think this section, for producing hides, tallow, and beef, is superior to any part of North America; for, with equal facilities for raising the animals, the weather in Winter, when the grass is best, and con sequently, the best time to fatten the ani mals, is cold enough to salt the meat, which is not the case in Upper California. There is no question that sheen mHit ; be raised to any extent, in a climate so dry and sulliciently warm, where very lit- tie snow or rain fails. It is also, I think, jthe h- althiesl country I have ever been jiu. which, I suppose, arises from the small .quantity of decaying vegetable matter, and then- being no obstruction from tim ; her to the passing winds." Of lhe High Country of tho Oregon, included between the Blue Mountains on tho WestnwHIu; Rocky Mountains on the Fast, Mr. Grcenhow gives tho follow ing account : "The Southern part of this region is a desert, o Sleep. lOckv inoiintninc rlnnr, ! narrow valleys, called' holes by the fur graders, and wide plains, covered with j sand or gravel, generally volcanic, which ; can never be icndered capable of sup- porting more than a very small number of ! inhabitants. The distinguishing features iof this territory are, its extreme dryness, and the great difference h, temperature between the day and the night. It sel- 1kttl fit lie j", . 1 i' 1 ..WW i, mi, M i (Hiring a lew days in the Spring ; there is little snow in the valleys in winter, though a great deal falls occasionally on the mountain tops; and no moisture is deposited in dews. Mr. Wyeth saw the thermometer, on the banks of Snake River, in August, I8.J-, mark eighteen degrees of Fahrenheit at sunrise, and ninety-two degrees at noon of the same day ; and he says that u difltrcncc