The Hawaiian star. [volume], September 30, 1908, SECOND EDITION, Page THREE, Image 3

About The Hawaiian star. [volume] (Honolulu [Oahu]) 1893-1912

Image provided by: University of Hawaii at Manoa; Honolulu, HI

                
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Materials Used in
Satin the High Style habricBlack IsXZTZk,
ITIwa ar-!a4tr ff Ztaarac CZno-f nan. ' toward the shoulder, trimmed wltn
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eries.
For yearn past broadcloths and kin
dred smoothly llnished fabrics have
been principally employed In the de
velopment of the cold weather street
costumes designed by the leading
French modistes, and as the present
trend of fashion is so strongly toward
clinging effects, such materials are
certain to be more than ever popular.
In the two and three-piece cloth cos
tumes of the elaborate type, such as
are used In America for the most cere
monious of afternoon occasions, as
well as for morning concerts and the
like, are seen all of the delicate shades
of 'blue, the entire gamut of pale
browns, an Infinite variety of rose and
crushed berry tints, In addition to
greens and grays of many shades and
the omnipresent black. Dark prays,
greens and 'Drowns are to be seen prin
cipally In the exceedingly plain, but
nono the less smart, rough cheviots
and, serges which are made up solely
for morning and hard usage.
SATIN THE FABRIC OF THE MO
MENT.
Because of its clinging qualities, sa
tin Is now the most Important fabric
of tho moment, and so long as the
dlrectolre style remains la voguo, bo
long will the soft, supple silken ma
terial continue Its supreme reign. It
Is used for almost every costume worn
by Miladi Modish from the time when
sho is first visible to her household
In the morning until she dismisses her
maid for the night, for satin lends It
self to" the building of the pegnolr
quite as readily as to tho afternoon re
ception costume or to tho ball gown.
Considered from tho ultra fashionable
viewpoint, It has no rival, while tho
practical-minded declaro that Its wear
ing qualities are beyond question.
'importance of bridge frocks.
So strong a hold has brldgo taken
upon the set ot women who go In for
artistic dressing that the brldgo gown
haa become of quito as much Import
ance In tho estimation of a woman
of leisure as any that aro to bo worn
within the range of masculine eyes.
'As this costume la to bo used chelly
In tho afternoon, but In an artificial
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j5y msmiii lACJan
the New Costumes
1
ly lighted room, It must combine the
practical with the ornamental by be
ing quite sufficiently elaborate to do
honor to the hostess and yet not too
light of color or too garishly decorat
ed to be worn while walking In the
residential section of a largo city.
Some of the brldgo princess frocks
that are being developed In molo
gray, slate green and tobacco brown
satin have trailing, tlght-Iltting skirts
of nunlike simplicity and with no
trimming save the cluster or tiny tucks
running biasly upward trom front to
back. But their bodices, which are
formed of satin bands, are worn over
guimpes of gold or silver cloth, so that
the portion of the costume that Is
most prominently in ovldenco at the
card table Is peculiarly effective.
STRIPED SILKS' AND LACE.
The use of striped silks under trans
parent fabrics is not a noveity, but
Parisian dressmakers have thought out
a new manner of combining the two
materials. They are employed togeth
er chiefly In the darker shades, the
costumes being Intended for semlcere-
monlous occasions, such as luncheon
and Informal days at home, for while
women are popularly supposed to dress
for the benefit of men, they realize
perfectly that their keenest critics are
other women. As at present used, the
silks that aro of black, stf ned with
blue, rose, green or white, form tho
principal portion of tho afternoon cos
tume, which is Invariably in ono
piece, although not necessarily short
walsted. Over It Is draped a low
necked, elbow-sleeved bodlco of black
chiffon or silk laco, which Is caught
Into the waist with an ornament gir
dle, and thence extends in a straight,
all-round tunic, terminating Just abovo
tho knees. Thero Is a net gulmpo
which matches tho color ot tho silk
strlpo and emphasizes tho shade seen
dimly hrough tho transparent veiling.
VARIOUS SLEEVE DRAPING3.
Ono of tho fads of tho moment which
Is occasionally seen In tho demltoll
ettcs brought out from Paris Is tho
difference In sloevo draplngs on one
costume. For Instance, the bodlco may
THIS HAWAIIAN STAR, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 1008.
be of laco veiling, satin or silk, worn
over a white net or lace guimpe and
trimmed with embroidery bands. It
there are bell sleeves, one may bo al
lowed to droop loosely, be banded ho
rizontally with rows of embroidery or
satin and have a deep turnback cuff,
which permits only the narrowest ot
(vertical bands and si
show a deep turn
back cuff of white lace. It is a con
tinuation of the Idea first introduced
several years ago, when evening
gowns had sleeves of widely varying
design, one being a small puff, while
tho other was nothing more than a
ribbon band.
BLACK AND A55U11B.
Black with pale blue has ever been
regarded as a stunning combination
when artistically blended, and as the
most forlorn of fiascos when too mucn
of the one or the other was used. Tho
French, however, perfectly understand
what aro tho exact color proportions.
This season they are making up a
vast number of pastel and palely tint
ed blue costumes, but in most instanc
es they are placing scarcely any black
about the bodices and a considerable
quantity upon the skirts. On the sa
tin demltollettes of this typo there Is
almost Invariably a wide black satin
or panne velvet band put plainly
around the skirt's hem. Above thts
may be a black bordered tunic, ver
tical black lace bandings or applied
borders of black and white embroid
ery. GOLD AND SILVER MOUNTINGS.
Among tho smartest of the gray
gowns which, undeniably, aro
to ue
the leaders this season, are many of
( plain and satin striped pearl voile
.which aro marvels of. beauty, and yet
so exceedingly plain that the casual
observer wonders vaguely why
they aro so effective. Tho key of tho
design is to bo found Invariably in the
trimming treatment of the bodice,
which shows In one way or another
that tho outside material Is built over
a cloth of gold or silver lining, tho
glint of which Is reflected seemingly
In the tinsel of tho bodlco embrold
ery bandings or the ornamentation or
its gulmpo. Theso gowns also show
tho hint ot azuro which Paris seems
to favor so strongly this season, for
whonever a lino of black does not ap
pear somewhere on tho collar and bo
dice there is certain to bo ono of palo
blue, often supplemented with a breast
knot or a glrdlo ot tho same hue,
SCARF-DRAPED SKIRTS.
Skirts aro scarf-draped In so many
different ways that the novel varia
tions upon one fundamental idea, so
simple as a long strand of satin, silk
or lace, are positively amazing. One ot
the most attractive methods of drap
ing a soft silK sash is to start it from
Just below the waistline on the left
side, securing It in position with an
enormously large and ornamental
chou, from which depends an end fin
ished with deep fringe or a long tas-
sel. The other piece crosses the front
of the skirt slantingly to tho opposite
side, where another chou and end are
formed. Or the scarf may be brought,
from tho left side down almost to the
hem of tho skirt's center, where, hav
ing been folded backward to form a
point, it runs upward to tho opposlto
side of the waistline and thus encircles
the back of the wearer. A simpler
meinou ot arrangement is to swain me
sash about the hips and partially over
the raised waistline, . then draw It
high at the back and knot It Into a
single long loop at one end. Such
sashes, bo It understood aro Invariably
of full-width materials, for the origin
al ribbon form of It Is rarely seen save
on quite young girls.
BRETELLE TRIMMED CORSAGES.
Bretello trimmings continue to bo
extremely popular, and are seen on a
large number of the ultra smart
French bodices. In some Instances tho
bretelles are composed wholly of folds
which, starting from tho waist line,
but concealing only the sides of the
figure, extend widely over the should
ers, and for some dlstanco over the
sleeves. The Japanese ntm-slze Ideal
Is still seen on the arrangement ot
those bretelles which, being of tno
material of the gown, aro made to form
tho entire short sleeve, the narrow
space or V at tho back and front ot
tho bodlco being filled In with the
deep gulmpo of net or laco whose sup
plementary sleeves often extend well
over the hand. A typo of bretello
which ultimately becomes a sash is
ono which, being so draped over tho
shoulders as to leave the tops of tho
Bleeves and tho under arms forms or
tho bodice oxposed, Is attached to a
draped glrdlo that at tho back holds
In placo tho two long sash ends ot the
accessory.
TWO TYPE3 OF EVENING GOWNS.
Nino out of ten ot tho dressmakers
who havo recently returned from Pa
ris report that evening gowns may
practically bo divided Into two distinct
typos tho exceedingly simple and the
unusually olaborate. Tho slmplo mo
dels aro naturally on Greek lines, and
Include tho clinging princesse gowns
of satin or velvet, which aro actually
raised glrdlo trailing skirts attached
to bodices of filmiest laco or embrold
ered net. Sometimes the skirts aro
absolutely plain and show only the
merest suggestion of a tunic or drap
ery about the hips, while others are
elaborately hand-embroidered in raised
effects done with hervy silk or chen
Illo or appliqued with artificial silk
or velvet flowers so llattened against
the fabric as to appear to have been
woven into It. The other type of even
ing gown is a gorgeous affair ot bro
cade showing gold and silver threads
of embroidered panne velvet and sa
tin, or of gold, silver or jet pallletted
gauze, made up over cloth ot gold or
silver.
THE GREEK INFLUENCE.
The Influence ot the Greek idea upon
evening gowns is especially marked In
tho case ot many of those conlod from
or similar to the celebrated creations
of Margralno La Croix. A brldgo
frock ot emerald green satin, for In
stance, has a gold fringed front point
ed tunic with sash, back and a gold
tulle bodice embroidered with gold
motifs that Is cut in one with tho
sleeves, which are gold laced at tho
inner side. Another gown, which Is
tho acme of simplicity as well as or
modesty, has a tunlo bordered with
embroidered silver bands and slash
LOS ANGELES LIMITED
sT7 ri tr
MULT AKE ITYH MIMHICAGO
A PALATIALTRAIN for rai
Your next trip to Chicago or East will be much more enjoyable if you go through Los Angeles,
'J:W thence on this superb "Limited" through Salt Lake City, and Omaha.
Only 3 'days Los Angeles to Chicago with beautiful scenery to view. Just remember to
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t
ed sleeves caught together with an
tique silver buttons. The most ex
treme gown, and also the simplest, is
a blue Otlodam princesse bordered
with blue embroidery, which has Its
split loft side caught together at In
tervals, but then It is worn over an
entire underdress of satin veiled with
silver paillettcd blue gauze.
PLAIN AND BROCADED EFFECTS.
In lieu ot tho .border materials
which enjoyed such a vogue a year
ago, many of tho leading dressmakers
aro using plain silk and brocades to
gether. Here again the almost uni
versal scarf Idea is brought into use,
but rather differently and happily tho
combination offers suggestions toward
the furnishing of the dinner costumes
made last winter. The gowns most
adaptable to such touching up aro
those of laco or chiffon made in two
pieces, as such transparencies rarely
carry heavy trimmings or anv tha
may not bo removed without leaving
obvious traces of their absence. Tho
waist of a white chiffon gown, for in
stance, may be draped after the Greek
manner with rose figured white bro
cade, tho sleeves made tlght-fltting and
cut off above tho elbow, and nhni.t tho
hips may bo draped a brocade tunic
which, extending almost to the knees
in front, i is slightly caught up at the
back into box pleats and then allowed
to fall over the train of the skirt In
two ends.
PAINTED CHIFFON SCARFS.
Much tho same treatment may bo
carried out with the aid of the painted
chiffon scarfs, of which It would be
difficult to conceive anything more ex
quisitely dainty. Two of these will be
quite sufficient to utterly change tho
effect on an all but nasso ovenimr
gown, provided that thero bo an ab-
senco of elaborato trlmminra. as ono
maybo used for tho bodlco and sleeves
una anouier lor tno skirt draping. Not
all tho gauzo scarfs nre lloraily em
broidered. Some of them have gold
and silver butterflies scattered over
tho weave and others show small sec
tions of peacock feathers.
COATED TEA GOWNS.
Tea gowns which aro also worn in
formally for dinner gowns, just as
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TIIREB
tuxedos aro worn by men when the
claw-hammer coat can posslbjy be dis
pensed with, are among the fascinat
ing creations which Paris Is exhibit
ing for the temptation or American
pockotbooks. A largo number ot theso
garments are of crepe, do chine, many
are of laco bordered chiffon, and tho
daintiest ot them developed in silk
moussellnc. Tho simplicity .of their
j design Is one of their chief charms,
for usually they consist merely of an
Empire robe with a tucker neck, short
sleeves and a satin sash over which
Is worn a sleeveless long, loose ana
very scant coat of Valenciennes, Oluuy
,or embroidered Mot laco.
YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED.
That your faco gets red, you havo a
fullness in tho chest, breath comes
short and quick and feel a sinking sen
sation, when you walk fast, go up
stairs, aro excited or frightened. This
is tho first stage of heart disease, and
must havo immediate attention. Don't
delay. Then Dr. Miles' New Heart
Cure, which will strengthen the nerei
of tho heart and restore It to health.
Money back If first bottle falls to ben
efit. FRANCE WILL TAKE
iNEW RUSSIAN LOAN
PARIS, Sept .10. it was asserted
In prominent quarters hero today that
arrangements are Delng completed tor
tho flotation of a new Russian loan on
tho French market Tho primaY ob
Ject ot this transaction Is to take up
about $100,000,000 ot about 5 per cent
treasury notes due In tno spring. These
will bo retired with the 4 1-2 per cent
treasury notes. Tho arrangement in
volves a now loan ot 400,000,000 francs.
URINARY
DISCHARGES:
RELIEVED IN i
24 HOURS
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