Newspaper Page Text
if Good Convenient i V -i t e 1 : Soue I Made m 31 I V -a wardrobes Richard the Second the garter - .-Cloth, of Gold delivered by the Mas- The Service being I '"- W I II of the past are color was In turn violet, white and - f ter of the Tpbes; the Lord Great concluded. His Majesty I J I I V I I .E?llfc ih kmnum the color changed from -white to J:" the Morse that buckles It. This Man- al Imperial Mantle, 1 I VI LikS. jST l of other days, scarlet, and back to white. In fijvCvgrvTco: c nrss the manners Henry the Sixth's reign the num- of other times - ber of garters on the mantle vlfc wardrobes of the past are thrown open, the language of other days, the manners of other times hold sway. The quick, eager, liurrytng world of today stands still for one moment to perform a great and solemn cere mony, and cream-colored horses perform the work now done by fiery motor-cars, and stately walking takes the place of rush and bustle. Letters commence "We greet you pell," and request in sonorous terms the pres nce of great people with ancient names, 'fur nished and appointed as your rank and qual ity appertained," and end with "And so we tid you most hearty farewell." Claims of rank, of past service, of old rights And privileges pour in. In the midst of quick, Active Mfe, in a mechanical, colorless time, Suddenly, blazing like the pages of an Illumi nated Missal, come claims of people who as tire to the titles of the King's Larderer, the Herbstrewer, the Butler, Carver, Waferer, to arry up the Courses, to bear the Silver Cup, o carry the Orb or one of the Sceptres, or perform some office ,as Sergeant of the Silver Scullery. It Is a proof of the powerful charm that ap peals to all people in dressing up, in relieving tiie dull monotony of this black-garbed day by the crimson and scarlet of the past. Even the Dean and Chapter of Westminster tare affected by this appeal. They put In a claims for, among other things, "Six ells of -dark-colored cloth. Ten yards of scarlet. Six yards of Sarcenet. Two pieces of double worsted." These for the Dean. And the third -part of a Tun of Wine and Fish according to "the Bounty of His Royal Majesty for the Dean and Chapter's Repast. Scarlet cloth and -crimson velvet, cups of gold and silver and all manner of perquisites are claimed by those fiolding office. A tangle of history begins to unwind slowly; jthe Garter of Edward the Third, the white pat in trunk hose of the Elizabethans, the atrophied remains of hoods, of Insignia; inan ities swollen or diminished, crowns and cor onets of shapes set down hard and fast by jrule, colors unalterable, costumes laid down Iby law. Nothing is forgotten. The -strangest mixture of the ages. In this will be found echoes of old sumptuary laws, as, for example: Ed ward IIL 1363. Purs of ermine and let tlce and embellish ments of pearls, ex cepting for a head dress, were forbid den to all but Roy alty, or nobles pos sessing over one thousand pounds a year. Today the length of every train, the arrange ment of the ermine, the forbidding of Richard the Second the ' garter color was In turn violet, white and blue. In Henry the Fifth's reign the color changed from white to scarlet, and back to white. In Henry the Sixth's reign the num . ber of garters on the mantle showed the degree of the rank of the wearer, just as the ermine spots show it today on the fur of the peers' hoods. It was an hundred-and-twenty garters for a duke, an hundred,-and-ten for a marquis, ninety for an earl, and sixty for a knight bachelor. In this reign the material was changed from cloth to velvet lined with satin. Henry the Seventhj abolished the powdering of garters, changed the color to purple and added the collar. In the reign of ,Henry the' Eighth the habit was made to the fashion of the time and a flat cap added; the hood remained, but the chap eron was worn hung over the right shoulder and was called the humeral e. The color changed to crimson. Also the jewel called the Lesser George was added (to the collar, or chain, and was suspended on the . The Queen in Coronation Regalia pearls in coronets will be found in the orders for the Coronation. Youths, for example, must wear a costume of black velvet with knicker tockers, black silk stockings, shoes with steel buckles, and a glengarry cap of black velvet. For the King many things must be prepared. The crown must be altered, the mantle and Supertunica fitted, sceptres, swords, girdles, spurs must all be got in readiness. The King arrives. He must wear . a kirtle, or surcoat, of crimson velvet with a large mantle and hood of the same, furred with -ermine and bordered with rich gold lace. This is worn over the white underdress and white stockings of the Garter Robes. On his head he wears the Cap of State of purple velvet turned up with ermine. The mantle, of huge -proportions, is held up by a number of pages who wore, on the last occasion, a modified Oeorgian coat with big cuffs, ruffles at the 'wrist, lace cravats, shoulder-knots and swords. From the moment of the King's entrance to "his exit the solemn process of dressing and -undressing him in . garments symbolical of -various virtues goes on. After he has been Recognized as King and Anointed, the Cap of State, the Mantle and the Surcoat are removed. For this anointing an Ampulla and a Spoon for the oil, of gold, have been provided, as has also a Pall of cloth of gold embroidered with eagles and held over the King's head by four silver supports, : these being held by four Knights of the Gar- " ter in their robes. After this anointing the IPall is delivered back to the Lord Chamber jlain, and is by him redelivered to the Groom ;'of the Robes. The robes worn by the Knights of the Gar Iter are of particular interest. Originally the full dress consisted of a tunic, a mantle and a capuchon of blue woolen cloth, all these pow 'dered with garters in gold, the mantle having ' one larger . than the rest to enclose a shield , 'with the cross -of St. George. ' This larger gar J.er and shield still remain. In the time of breast by a chain or riband of black. At the present day the full dress of the Knights of the Garter consists in the mantle, hood, collar and surcoat, and trunks of white and white hose, shoes and ros ettes all of gold spangled gymp, with the collar tied back by big shoulder ros ettes of ribbon, and the garter round the right leg under the knee. The mantle is without a collar and is drawn together at the neck by long cordons of blue silk ending in big tas sels of mixed blue silk and gold thread. The Mantles of other Orders are, for the Thistle, rich green velvet lined with white. For the Order of the Bath, rich crimson satin. The Order of St. Patrick, sky-blue satin. St. Michael and St. George, Saxon-blue satin. The King, having been Anointed, seats him self in King Edward's Chair, then, after the Knights of the Garter have resumed their seats, he again rises and is Invested with two garments of ecclesiastical significance, the Colobium Slndonis, and the Supertunica. The first vestment Is in shape like a sleeveless monk's frock, or an alb, and Is made of fine white linen with an edging of lace round the border, and a flounce of lace, nine Inches deep, at the bottom. This vestment Is the second of a priest's Mass vestments, the first being the Amice, which Kings do not wear. The Supertunica is of the nature of a priest's Dalmatic and the privilege of wearing it was granted to Abbots, and to Kings and Emperors. It is made of cloth of gold and Is woven with the signs of the Imperial Eagle, the Palm Branch, the Rose, the Shamrock and Thistle. The Rose is for England, England's flower dating far beyond the Tudor Rose as It is repre sented, and beyond the York ist and Lancastrian rose, and having more affinity with the golden rose Ed ward the First wore In his helmet. The Shamrock is that plant used by St. Pat rick to illustrate the lesson of the Trinity to his follow ers. And the Thistle is a reminder of the salvation of the Scots (so legend says) from the Danes, who, walking barefoot to surprise the enemy, trod on the spikes of Scottish thistles and, crying out. were betrayed. - After these have been put on, the two spurs are taken from the Altar by the Sub-Dean, who hands them to the Lord Great Chamber lain, who, kneeling down, touches the King's heels with them. . Then the Sword of State is girt about the King after he has reecived it into his right hand. This sword is in a purple T- e 1 v e t sea bbard. After he has been girt with it and has been e x horted to do justice with it, he rises and is ungird ed, and the noble man who first received it redeems it from the A 1 t a r.v where It has been placed, for the sum of one nun- . dred shillings, and then carries it bare during the rest of the ceremony. The King is then invested with the Armilla or Stole, of -cloth of .gold suitably .embroidered, and then with the Imperial Mantle, or Pall of ter of the "Robes; the Lord Great Chamberlain fastening the clasps of the Morse that buckles it. This Man tle is of great length and beauty, and is significant, as are all mantles from Elijah's mantle onwards to St. Mar tin, who divided his mantle out of charity. The mantle completes the ecclesias tical portion of the King's vestments, being an exaggerated form of the cope' or chasuble worn by officiating priests, and remaining in effigy on the tombs of some kings, notably on the tomb of Richard the First. After this the King again seats himself and receives the Orb into his right hand, this Orb being a symbol of the world over which ho rules, and the Cross to show that his king dom is Christian. Then the Archbishop places the Ruby Ring on the fourth finger of the King's hand. It Is a Table Ruby, having the Cross of St. George cut upon it, and is the Ensign of Kingly Dig nity. Then the two great Sceptres are given to the King after he has put on the Glove presented to him by the Lord of the Manor of the Worksop. The one is the Sceptre with the Cross, and the other the Sceptre with the Dove. The first Into his right hand, support ed by the Lord of the Manor of Worksop, this being v the Kingly Sceptre, and the oth er being the Rod of Equity and Mercy. A lost fiillv Wnffle,!pped, the The King, Holding the Two Scepters, 13 crownea Is Crowned in St. Edward's Chair. wltn st- Ed! ward's Crown of pure gold- encrusted with Jewels. There are about three hundred diamonds in the crown, and about three hundred pearls be-' sides a quantity of other precious stones. The great South African diamond, the Cullman, which was cut into two parts, is now, the one part, called the Star of Africa, in the King's Sceptre, the lesser part being set into the crown beneath the Black Prince Ruby, a stone said to have been worn in the Black Prince's helmet at Crecy and Poictiers. There Is, moreover, the huge oblong sapphire placed in the crown in 1820 by the Prince Regent. Also the two pear-shaped pearls which were worn as earrings by Queen Elizabeth on her corona tion in 1558, and were added to the Crown by King Edward's special order. 11 u 5.V The King Arrives, His Train Borne by Pages. After the Coronation, in the language of the Rubric, "the people with loud and repeat ed shouts, cry: 'God save the King;' and im mediately the Peers put on their Coronets; and the Kings of Arms their Crowns; the Trumpets sounding, the Drums beating, the Great Guns of the Tower and the guns in the Park being shot off." When the acclamation - ceases the Arch bishop pronounces the Exhortation and then presents the Bible to the King, saying: "Our Gracious King, we present you with this Book, the most valuable thing that this world' af fords. Here is Wisdom. This Is the Royal Law. These are. the lively Oracles of God." The Archbishop now pronounces the Bene diction and the King goes into the Theatre, where are all the Great Officers of State, the two Bishops his Supporters, the Noblemen carrying the Swords, the Sword of State, the Pointed Sword of Spiritual Justice, the Point ed Sword of Temporal Justice, and the Cur tana, the blunt-ended Sword of Mercy. The King being then enthroned and the Ex hortation beginning, "Stand firm and hold fast" having been said, the King delivers the Sceptre with the Cross and the Sceptre with the Dove to those noblemen who bear them, and receives the Homage, first of the Bishops, after which the Archbishop kisses him on the left cheek. After which come those of the Blood Royal to do the same, and after that the Senior of each degree do likewise, the Senior of the Dukes, of the Marquesses, the Earls, the Viscounts and the Barons. Then the Princesses pay Homage and after them the Peeresses. After the Homage is a second A c c lama tion. This is followed by the A n o inting, C r owning and En throning of the Queen. Next in order do die . King and Queen receive the Sacrament, having tak- . en off their crowns. Be fore this, as they kneel, . the King makes his offering of a Pall or Altar Cloth of ten yards in length offered in a roll, and an Ingot of gold of a pound weight. Then the Queen makes her offering of a Pall, and a Mark weight of gold in like manner as the King. The Service ; being concluded. His Majesty Is disrobed of His Roy al Imperial Mantle, and is arrayed in His Royal Robe of - Purple Velvet and receives his Crown of State, and the Queen-likewise. After which they pass to the West door of the Abbey, their Majesties wearing their crowns, the King bearing in his right hand the Sceptre with the Cross, and in his left the Orb, and the Queen bearing in her right hanr her Sceptre with the Cross, and in her left the Ivory Rod with the Dove. A glowing, glorious and moving spectacle which words cannot convey. The blaze and sparkle of colors and jewels, the sea of crim son velvet and white ermine like wave-crests. The huge Standards of England, Ireland and Scotland, and the Standard of the Union; the Embroidered Cushions for the Crowns and Rings; the Knights of the Orders in full dress; the Heralds with their Tabards and their fan tastic titles. Unicorn Pursuivant, Portcullis and Rouge Dragon Pursuivants, and the Kings of Arms, Garter, Lyon, Clarenceux, Ulster and Norroy, a host of quaint and curious names and offices. Nor is this all. No detail but is carefully arranged as, for example, this list of what the Peers and Peeresses must wear whereby their rank is shown. THE PEERS. For all: A mantle of crimson velvet edged with miniver. The cape furred with miniver pure, and powdered with bars or rows of er mine (i.e., narrow pieces of Black fur) accord ing to their degree. The use of this fur, mini ver, or vair, for persons of high degree, is of very ancient origin, dating from the time in the Middle Ages when persons of all ranks wore hoods of some kind of skins. One could tell in the fourteenth century who were knights or nobles at a tournament by the min iver of their hoods. Sable, ermine, vair and gris were reserved for the use of the kings and nobles: other ranks wore squirrel and lamb, peasants wore badger and cat skins. The cape worn today on the Peers' mantle is the remains of this custom. Barons wear two rows of ermine. Viscounts wear two rows and a half. Earls wear three rows. Marquesses wear three rows and a half. Dukes wear four rows. These Robes are worn over full Court dress,- Uniform or Regimentals. Their Coronets are to be of silver gilt; the Caps- of crimson velvet turned up with ermine, with a gold tassel on the top; and no jewels The Archbishop Preparing to Crown the King. or precious stones are to be set or used in the coronets, or counterfeit pearls instead of silver balls. Tne Cap of crimson velvet and fur once worn by peers in Parliament is the sign of their right to the peerage, the metal crowns showing the degree of the wearer thus: A Baron's Coronet has on the rim six silver -balls set at equal distances. A Viscount's Coronet has sixteen silver balls. An Earl's Coronet has eight silver balls raised on points, with gold strawberry leaves between the points. A Marquess' Coronet has four gold straw berry leaves, and four silver balls alternately. A Duke's Coronet has eight gold strawberry leaves. - THE PEERESSES. For all: A mantle of crimson velvet, with a Cape furred with miniver pure, and pow dered with rows of ermine. For a Baroness: The Mantle to be edged round with miniver pure two inches in breadth, and the train to be three feet on the ground. The Cape to have two rows of ermine. For a Viscountess: The edge of the Mantle as before; the train to be a yard and a quarter on the ground. For a. Countess: The edging of fur. to be three inches in breadth, and the train a yard and a half. For a Marchioness: The edging to be four inches in breadth, and the train a yard and three-quarters. .For a Duchess: . The edging, to be five inches broad, and the train two yards on the ground. Their dress consists of a Kirtle of crimson velvet bordered all round, with a nar row edging of miniver scalloped in front, plain otherwise. The Kirtle opens from the waist and widens gradually down to the ground. - It may also, be gathered, back in .three ..festoons each tied back with a bow of tinsel. UDDV s joum uaiD Hthe home-made flavor. , .... . 1?. 01 Libbys Chicken oonp Libby's Vegetable Soup I iMvV Tnmatn Soim U at your grocers. L.S Libby, McNeill Ok Ubby J ft AN OUTSIDER. Gwendolyn She Is not going stop at that resort any longer. Genevieve What is the reason, no men there? Gwendolyn Not that exactly. There Is one lone man, who has proposed to all of the girls but her, and she feels so out of place when they are holding an experience meeting. Publicity Law Badly Needed. Connecticut, District of Columbia, Kansas, Maine, Maryland, Michigan, Mississippi, New Jersey, New York. Rhode Island and Vermont, have laws which provide specifically for the re porting of tuberculosis and which, make provision for the proper regis tration of living cases of this disease. In fourteen other states, laws or reg ulations of the state boards of health, require that tuberculosis be reported, simply as one of a list of infectious diseases. The following 28 states and territories have no provision what ever for the reporting or registration, of tuberculosis cases: Arizona, Alas ka, Arkansas, Colorado, Delaware. Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illi nois, Kentucky, Louisiana, Missouri, Montana, Nevada, New Hampshire, New .Mexico, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma, Philippine Islands, Porto Rico, South Carolina, South Dakota. Texas, Virginia, West Virginia and Wyoming. Kissing Breach of Peace. The better half of' a respected citi zen of New Jersey recently had the temerity to hale her lord and master before the court on a charge of having kissed her against her will. For this heinous offense this shameless Jersey benedict was bonded over in $100 bail to keep the peace, and, moreover, was warned by the judge never again to kiss his wife without first obtaining her consent in due form. If he is' any kind of a man, probably he will never want to kiss her again. Washington Herald. Progress of Civilization. Lady And did you make your con gregation give up cannibalism? Missionary (suppressing a grin) Not quite; but after much trouble I persuaded them to use knives and forks. The Throne. . Before taking the bull by the horns you should complete satisfactory ar rangements for letting go at the psy chological moment. COMES A TIME When Coffee Shows What It Has Been Doing. "Of late years coffee has disagreed with me," writes a matron from Rome, N. Y. "Its lightest punishment being to make me logy and dizzy, and it seem ed to thicken up my blood. "The heaviest was when it upset my stomach completely, destroying my ap petite and making me nervous and ir ritable, and sent me to my bed. After one of these attacks, in which I nearly lost my life, I concluded to quit the coffee and try Postum. "It went right to the spot! I found It not only a most palatable and re freshing beverage, but a food -as well. "All my ailments, the loginess' and dizziness, the unsatisfactory condition of my blood, my nervousness and irri tability disappeared in short order and my sorely afflicted stomach began quickly to recover. I began to rebuild and have steadily continued until now. Have a good appetite and am rejoiclnic in sound health which I owe to the use of Postum. Name given by Postum Co., Battle Creek, Mich. Read the little Book "The Road to Wellville," in pkgs. "There's a reason. Bver m4 th afcve letter? A nw mmm pvcn f root tina to time. T vmA toll mt aaM.