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v D : ' HIE m ailllflDlliaDOOOIIIIIHIllOllIllOlllfllllllliillHIIOIIHIlIlO iLac-K of IC-elty In Fabric Atoned For In Variety of Style Vel .veteeijr, for Street Wear Chif fon Velvets for Formal Func tion Kxt rem el y Fall and tong Skirts Close Fit Maintained Over the nips The Lifting- of the Waistline Some Gowns Are Practically Three-piece Affairs. Stiffened Hems Short Sleeves Snjrgrestlons of Ecclesiastical Garb Assert Themselves. Most of the. Imported models have ar rived, and those who make a cult of dress have found a strenuous time In Inspecting as many as they could compass, and in listening to descriptions of such as they have not been able to see. One thing, and that a trne thing, :ray be culled from the mass of information ' and misinformation that has been rife for those many weeks, and that Is, that vel vets, and to a still greater extent, vel veteens, are to resume the triumphant career that was interrupted only by the arrival of warm weather. There is little that Is new to record of the velvets themselves. Chiffon velvet ex erts its charm on the counters In all of the novel shades, and finds Its beauties much enhanced therein. The silvery "bloom," to call It that for want of a better and more descriptive term, which Is so characteristic of the weave. Is seen to Its uttermost advantages in all of those v soft halftints that Dame Fashion favors so much on the new color card. There are deep and dense grays. Not the taupe and acier tints of yesteryear, but those of the fume or smoke per suasions. Both of the former mentioned proved far too trying for the average complexion to carry to advantage, and while the smoke grays, and especially those tagged with the London prefix, are not ranch better, still the hint of yellow that appears In those last will do much to relieve their dullness. Steel blues are shown In three gradations of tint, and combined with fur a trim ming that is In vast vogue abroad al ready they are bound to prove becoming to blonde and brunette alike. Much will depend upon the trimming color of those seemingly delicate shades, and those with the lighter of the crushed fruit colorings are sure of an enthusiastic acceptance in the chiffon and silk weaves, while the new velveteens show the dark tones to perfection. These latter are showing some really marvelous examples of the dyer's art In the, rich deep shade that Paris pronounces correct this season; add to the beauty of the tone and texture the fact . that the colors do not crock or rub off, and one readily understands the popu larity accorded the velveteens by the model makers. The aubergine colorings they are ex actly what one sees on the outside of an uncooked eggplant are still in highest favor, and there are few that take even Description of .The Chasuble Effect. - Velvets and their close congeners, the velveteens, resume the triumphant run, that was interrupted only with the warm weather. The late arrivals In those favored goods from Paris present many novel features, the most striking of which U the prevalence of the very long skirt with a generous train at the back. In the attractive style illustrated the chas uble effect Is Introduced on the coat, this proving equally effective on both tall and short figures. The gown Is in one of the reddish-brown shades, that are promised such a vogue once the cold weather ar rives, while the braid and the handsome cord ornaments that mark the chasuble corners are In black. The braid presents a wavy weave that lights up well, giving almost a moired appearance. The coat Is closely , fitted underneath, the modish short-walsted effect being plainly marked, and ripple pleats are introduced in the side-back scams with excellent effect. The skirt is of the extremely full circu lar variety, fitting closely around the hips and with overlapping pleats at the back placket. Kntirely guiltless of trlm miutr, the skirt depends upon a perfect cut and a still more perfect fit for all of Us cachet. The hat proves that the fancy for the picture shapes and styles is still regnant; the many plumes that make Its garniture being somewhat Irregularly dis posed at the left side. Chiffon Velvets fleappear. Those sheer and shlmmery chiffon vel vets are sure of maintaining the cou tnriere's favor for an indefinite period. Firstly, because they display their costli ness In each and every line and fold; the slightest attempts at trimming better than this tint. Some of the ew blue-violet shades are equally attraedve, while reds, terra cot tas, verdigris greens and tobacco browns will find hosts of enthusiastic adherents. So much for fabric and color. Now to a consideration of the various modes in which these present themselves. There are long-coated suits, there are short coated suits and there nre bolero-coated suits that are Intended for house rather than for street wear. It seems to be en tirely a matter of choice which mode one follows; each and all are equally stylish. Some very smart models display sugges tions that are plainly and evidently copied from the book of the ecclesiastical tailor. Chasubles, stoles, crossed bands, etc., are many and numerous, and they are manipulated In countless different but telling ways. One sees the chasuble extended Into a enraco- coat; one sees it Just about as often posed over the snouiders or a gar ment whose hem reaches well to the knee line or a trifle below it, and one sees the ubiquitous Eton jacket with this smart little addendum its charms. For gowns that grace the more formal functions there Is not a jot or tittle that would Indicate a waning vogue for velvet. The most fascinating of the later models are really three-piece affairs. There Is some sort of an open bodice or "Jumper" effect, sleeveless, or at the most with some sort of a little sleeve cap that shall keep the effect of a velvet gown in view, to be worn over a separate blouse of the most extravagant description. All sorts of sheer laces, hand-embroidered chiffons, the softest of liberties and such are in vogue for such purposes, and the contrast of such sheer fabric, bordered by the vel vet bodice. Is a most attractive one. Skirts to such gowns are plain, often times severely so, but they make up in soft fulness whatever they may lack In the 'way of fusslness. Setting snugly over the hips, they fall in rippling folds to the feet, some slight stiffening of hair cloth being run In to tne hem as an as sistance to the soft fabric. The skirt that does not measure at least eight yards at the edge cannot hope to pass muster with the Parisian creations, and when one con siders the fact that some semblance of a train is Included it will readily be seen tiiat even a greater width will prove none too much. Illustrations. and, secondly, because they show up to the uttermost advantage each little at tempt at trimming or elaboration that may be lavished upon them. Work Is not lost when put on chiffon velvets, as It Is on some other materials that claim to bold fashionable favor. The charm ing gown pictured, the creation of a Parisian artist, makes use of the preva lent erase for the bolero and the lace blouse in conjunction, and adds to this a celnture, well boned, of soft satin, to match la tint. The velvet is In one of those crushed-fruit colorings that take on the dead red tones, and a braid that takes In those tints, relieved with much silver and gold bullion threads, makes for trim ming effect. The short sleeve of the bolero is deeply pleated in the front seam, this making for a smart fullness; while the lace sleeve appears for a short distance below. The skirt is managed with a gored cutting, a deep fold, headed with tucks, being disposed so as to give the effect of a double skirt, and a similar fold appears on the slightly stiffened hem. Modish Coitnme de VIsIte. A clever adaptation of the bolero serves to add much to the charm of this chiffon velvet gown. In which a silvery tone of bluish gray one of those novel mixed and half tints Is exploited. As usual, there is a blouse worn beneath, this time of Mechlin lace and bluish shade of chif fon, the lace making the round yoke and the chiffon the rest of the smart little garment. The bolero Is so cut as to dis play to advantage the yoke part of real lace, and heavy Italian crochet Is used to border the little Jacket effect, each rose of the lace being centered with a rosette of velvet, having a stress button J to hold the pleatings. The sleeve Is short and puffy, the celnture plain and well boned, with a marked dip in the front, and velvet-covered buttons make for a good trimming effect. The skirt is of a gracefully full circular cut, a bias band, haircloth lined, serving in lieu of a hem, and two tucks above this are threaded with a heavy cord, through which the featherboned cording is run to maintain some semblance of stability In the skirt around the foot. Collarless Coats and Short Sleeves Demaiq, For the days of early autumn, when the winds blow chill, there Is a strong desire to get out the heavier possessions in the wardrobe, and even to add some little furs or furry accessories to the toilette. The flat and collarless neck of the autumn styles lends itself well to such suggestions, and where fur is hardly required those smart boas of tull'ne or of malinette will be welcome. A very graceful effect is given to a long coat of rather severe cut In the use of a chasuble, of ecclesiastical cut and suggestion, that hangs loosely al most to the waist line back and front. Handsome cord pendants are posed on each corner, the front cut away to dis play the embroidered silk vest, and the waist line is lifted a trifle to give that spring which makes for such style In the later modes. The sleeve is full and puffed, gathered into a flat band of the trimming braid halfway above the wrist. The skirt shows a plain severity of cut, which the well-draped fulness does much to dispel, the fronts and sides lying on the floor for a couple of inches and the back lengthen ing itself into a train that reposes for a half yard or more on the carpet. The Charms of the Empire Mode. Suggesting, but not slavishly following, the Cmpire mode, this charming gown will 3f prove an equally becoming model for debutante and dowager alike. The little blouse Is In a cream white Llcrre lace with a doublure of white chiffon that serves to throw up the dainty design Into bold relief. Just the regulation house pat tern is followed In this; and the piece is a separate one, so that any given number of blouses may be worn with the velvet gown and a variety of appearances so easily arranged. What one might term the bretelle straps, that run over the shoulders to catch In the girdle both back and front, are wide enough to cover the blouse altogether at their lower edges, and exquisitely wrought hand em broideries make for a richness of effect. The girdle offers an attractive note of contrast, being In a light shade of lav ender, the velveteen taking a deep auber gine tint, just the color one sees on the outside of an eggplant. The skirt is of a very full circular cut, littie tucks grouped, in three serving to adjust the fulness at the short-walsted ceiuturc; and the hem Is stiffened with a flexible princess- haircloth that adds much to the graceful set of the gown. Advance Paris Model In Velveteen. far too many charms to be lightly cast I aside, and so many of the shapes that J reignea in linens inu jigmweigui muumrs all summer are being repeated In vel veteens for the autumn and early winter wear. The coat and skirt costume, with Its Inevitable tendency to support the vogue of the separate blouse, is ever an economical one. and perhaps one of the most charming designs that have been put -forth this season makes the subject of Illustration. Semifitting lines appear both back and front and the tendency to lift the waistline a trifle Is plainly evi dent. The velveteen Is In a dull deep ft!-? g- ' . ' ? p-J J fr d r'- I ' bronze green, the broad braid, woven In a plaid pattern and presenting light and relieving tones, making for a simple and yet most effective trimming. The use of a silk fringe to edge the pointed strap pings of braid Is a happy idea. The coat fronts roll back a trifle to reveal a vest of banana-yellow cloth, Vlth large smoked pearl "stud" buttons for a fastening. The skirt Is of a plain circular cut, the front snugly fitted and the back disposed In a number of tiny overlapping pleats. Two rows' of braid are posed above the hem, an upper strapping seeming to simulate a front panel on the skirt. A Floral Freak, One of ""the most singular freaks In the floral kingdom has recently been brought to Europe. It Is called an "occasional" flower, for the reason that it has no par ticular time to bloom. No reference is made in botanical science to the exist ence of this peculiar flower. When in a closed condition, the occasional flower Is in color and in form something like a matured and dried poprrhead with Its stem attached. Submerged In a bowl of water for a few minutes, and then taken out and placed by its stem In ah empty bottle, the outer petals begin In several minutes to open out. This process Is slow, but distinctly noticeable. The pet als continue to rise and expand until they resemble in appearance the sunflower. The "occasional" remains taus open for a few hours, during which time the state of humidity, lessening by degrees, the fiber begins to shrink and the petals close up gradually in the same way they opened, until the flower resumes Its for mer position It Is asserted that properly nourished wfth regard to temprrature and air and carefully handled, the eeaslo: at flower never decays nor degenerat" V; its radiance and splendor; r I" "-N. . v Is I St-' -w -rr- Ox. i I CCLLJ-.L njUT.JS COATS ANH 3ff?2JQr i3i jnnrrj Bkia tt Odds and Ends of- Fashion. Effective Little Tonches That Tell for Modi Last Season's Gown Brought lp to Date The Latest Millinery Is Dlsnrre Striped Silks and Illbbons for Trim inloK PlplnK" Make a Bid Some NoveJtles In Sleeves. September Is the month of changes and makeshifts In the wardrobe, and much depends upon the weather man as to wherewithal we shall be clothed and how we shall seek our amusements. The wardrobe of the summer Is still more or less good, albeit the colored linens Indubitably show signs of soil and fading. But the hats wherewith one faced the assembled multitudinous critics of clothes at the summer resorts are by this time wellntgh hopeless. It seems almost use less to purchase headgear just now that will have to be abandoned a few weeks later on. Added to which the coming styles In millinery are totally different from what has reigned hitherto. The shops are still -'holding high carni val In the reduced goods departments. All of the lightweight woolen suits that helped out summer stock are offered at a fraction of their original prices, and a purchase in this line Is a good one Just now. The spring season's street costume can be wonderfully helped out In the wearing of some one or another of the new fads In neckwear. - There are several new shapes and sizes made up In embroidered nets, in point d'esprlt. In malinette and in tulllne. And, by the way, this last mentioned deserves quite a paragraph all to itself. It Is a net rather than a tulle, and has just about the same body as a fine Brussels net, so that the title tul llne Is apt to be a trifle misleading. Added to this extra body, there Is a waterproof guarantee that makes Its price seem unusually low and Its term of serv ice a long one. The liking for ribbons as a costume trimming or accessory is still rampant. The vogue of velvet ribbon Increases rather than otherwise, and there Is no doubt but that it will reign supreme as a garniture for winter and party frocks. Graduated rows are well liked; knotted strappings of It seem to support the three or four flounces that decorate fussy frocks; Innumerable loops are used as shoulder knots to support the collar of the sheer waist and to catch the elbow sleeve just above or below the point "of the elbow, as may seem most desirable. Braids are on the counters in a most bewildering variety. There are some ex ceedingly smart patterns in plaids, any where from . two to a dozen Inches In width, and matched sets In those appear on tallormades in- broadcloth, serge, man nish goods and even up on velveteens in the sober and more staple colorings. Lace braids that It Is oftentimes hard to consider as belonging to the braid de partment at all are to be used In dainty and delicate colorings. Quite a fad It Is to pose those upon a velvet band of con trasting color. For example, a gown of oyster-white broadcloth is trimmed with a yellowish lace braid posed over chestnut-brown velvet, this combination of brown and white being a vastly favored one. And. en passant, there was Import ed with this model a chapeau In oyster white felt, with beaver for trimming, and the cachet that it needed was added In the long paradise plume that waved from the cache-pelgne at the side, this being brown at the end, shading through the orange tints and showing white at the tip. : The French models Intended for winter wear are some of them bizarre to an ex treme. The sweep of the uncurled os trich plume Is hardly a becoming one, and the tendency to pose a lot of trim ming upon Its quill hardly adds any grace to the situation. Added to which the brims are manipulated after the queerest styles. One large steeple-crowned affair from Georgette has a tremendously long uncurled plume In white. There are lit tle bows of black velvet ribbons, buckled J A City Little Is generally known of Gheel, a town in Belgium, where harmless luna tics dwell in harmony, stroll about the streets, take their noonday refreshments at the cafes and go about their daily routine, with more common sense than many worthy citizens who are healthy in mind as well as in body. Situated about 27 miles from the great commercial cen ter of Antwerp it shelters 1.51). who are taken as lodgers by the townsfolk. The treatment of the patients Is a normal one, cures being due to kindness and tact on the part of the townsfolk, who make It their business. The fees for taking in the "innocents,' as the patients are called, vary in proportion to the way In 4 on to the quill at close intervals, an this note Is repeated in the steep ban deau at the side. The brim Is narrow in the back and would be very wide, la deed. In front were It not folded baclt upon Itself, Just for all the world at though the wearer had received a slap In the face which spoiled the shape of the hat. Since those uncurled plumes demand a length and luxurlousness of flue to tusks them at all presentable. It Is not at all likely that tbey will become any too pop. nlar Just at present, their cost being con siderably In excess of the curled kind. The willow plume Is being pushed con siderably, and here the uncurled tip does not seem so forlorn and bedraggled. A pretty effect Is oftentimes gained in tns knotting on half way in Its length of a flue of another color. For example, a long plume in black bas flues of a brilliant royal blue knotted on; pale blues show lavenders and lilacs knotted through, and white plumes are mated with almost every color on the card. Pipings are making a strong bid for favor, and one sees them in all sorts of new and attractive connections. While it Is hardly a piping in one sense of the word, very effective work is being done with thick and heavy cable cords cov ered with silk. The covering is not shirred or wrinkled on as heretofore: It lies quite smooth and fiat, and the cord it is as thick as one's thumb In Its smaller presentations is twisted Into all sorts of patterns and designs. Watch springs, colls, undulating ropes, lattices, etc., are so fashioned, and very effective trimming they make at but small ex penditure of time or money. Striped silks, cut on the bias and piped with a little featherbone cording, are being used to excellent results. To peep forth either edge of a nun's fold, to border strappings, to edge pleata, trim collars and cuffs, strap waistcoats, etc, are some of their missions, and when the color contrast Is cleverly selected quite an elaborate air can be achieved on a slmnle frock with such assistance. The wherewithal that one shall cover the arms is bound to be a vexed question in the determining of the lines of cos tume this coming season. The dress makers In Faris are advocating sleeve less dresaes. There are some that display a half sleeve, and there are models on view In which the sleeve is carried in aa exaggerated fashion down In mltaln shape over the hand, the thumb being slipped through a little loop provided for Just this purpose-. And between this last and the sleeveless mode one can take any choice. It would look as though the sleeveless mode were to have quite a run. If one is to Judge from the preparations made In high-class bouses to meet its require ments. Lingerie sleeves, lace sleeves, and , even fussifled chiffon sleeves, are already on view to favored customers. It Is to be noted in this connection that such articles are all of French make; that not a stitch of machine work enters Into their making, and that there is usually rather a scant puff at the top and a reasonably close fit from there to the band. Where the separate sleeve is used there is usually a sleeve cap. an epaulette or some other shoulder elaboration in the dress, so that the mandate of broad shoulders, small waist and slender hips is not interfered with. The sleeveless style does cut more than a little from one's natural shoulder breadth, unless jn especial patns be taken to broaden It out. and so the natural balance of the figure seems a trifle askew. Collars are much higher In the recent arrivals, and there Is a tendency to bone them firmly under the ears at the back and with still another rod Inserted on each side between these two points. When It is considered that upon the shape, size and set of the collar so much depends the face and the chapeau can both be unpleasantly affected by a badly boned or fitting collar it seems odd that the average dressmaker pays so little at tention to this Important point. ' of Fools. which the patients or their friends wis that they should be looked after. No matter how much or how little he pays, however, the boarder Is always the spoiled member f the family, for it is a well known fact that the people of GbetJ un derstand management of the insan- bet ter than any other community or insti tution. The patient always bas the armchair and the best seat at the table and en Joys every possible attention, wit the result that he learns to value the evteem In which he Is held to such an extent that he makes the greatest efforts to master his weakness leat he abcuM for feit his cherished privileges.