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- ggyro. 50) V '.X- V--. - - - - aZZ-- V - L ' jj Extravagance the Keynote of the New- Dress Expensive Mate ' riab Sumptuous (Velvets Rich Tur3 Ostrich and Mara- bont Feathers Variously Used Tadded Embroideries Stand Out in Bold Relief Revers, Vest, Collar, Culls and Skirt All Share in the Extravagance of Trimming Frivolous Little Basquines Tostilion Backs And Hints and Adaptation From the Dress of a Century Ago. It will require a purse with a goodly lining of currency and very elastic strings, indeed. In order to be gowned In the first flight of fashion for the social season just opening. All the small economies of dress seem to be swept to one side, and an era of ex travagance and elaboration has opened up In their stead. It seems as though the makers of the mode had exerted their Ingenuity to the end of seeing just bow much material they could artistically employ to tte fashioning of a gown, and then set their wits to work to devise ways and means whereby this excess of material could be most extravagantly trimmed. But and here Is where the unskilled or Inexperi enced dressmaker will meet her Water loo the goal of all this elaboration and extravagance Is an appearance of sim plicity. Under no circumstances must the gown so fashioned and trimmed ap pear to bo overloaded with decoration. Rather must It appear as though the trimming scheme were quite an accident, , and that the happy result was merely a clever thought upon the part of the de signer. The velvet gown is really the acme of sumptuous elegance, when fashioned after the accepted mode. Even the less ex pensive velveteens and those are de lightfully soft and artistic in coloring this season, with the additional charm of proving absolutely fast la tint and guaranteed not to rub off on delicate gloves or laces will serve beautifully as a background for the elaborate trimming devices that are really the making of the frock. The same sheer and almost limp weaves that the manufacturers presented us with last season are still quite the accepted thing, In spite of the .fact that most of the new silks are all of them much less llmsy than heretofore. While stiffness Is hardly the word to apply . to those liken fabrics, there Is, nevertheless, more body and more stability to the weave than last season's goods presented. Lin ing silks, such as the taffetas, archeda Bilks and the silk and linen mixtures that appear so often In imported gowns, are all of them of such quality as to af ford a goodly support to the sheer ma terial that still rules for the outer dress. While the woman of fashion will ac cept the dictum anent the new skirt length, with Its many inches sweeping the floor, her sister of more moderate means will , doubtless rebel against a vogue that lessens the service of a gown , and makes for Increased cleansing bills. None the less, the best dressmakers are Insisting upon quite a marked tralne to frocks of a formal or semlformal intent, and It la only In the plain tailor made that "goes to mill and to meeting" that the short skirt is even tolerated. As though to emphasize the difference, there Is quite a tendency on the part of the tailor to cut this skirt even a trifle shorter than heretofore, although doubtless the 'very smart styles la footwear have mors than a little influence upon . this ques tion. A dainty cut to a shoe and smart silken hosiery are necessary where the new walking skirt is concerned, since the ankle rather than the instep is the focus that guides the tailor when deciding upon the leugth. Irish crochet and the padded embroider ies that the Irish peasantry make to such perfection are charmingly appropriate pou the colleen poplins that And such favor abroad. For dinner gowns those are lu high esteem, and the slightly ribbed surface, with Its lustrous sheen, throws up both lace and embroidery to the utmost advantage. The elaboration of the Dlrectoire period, the time when the first Napoleon was working to make France the artistic cen ter of the worltl time has shown the won derful prescience of the Little Corporal In this respect makes itself much felt in the present fashion. Then richness, the rich titij of a tic-It' ..-crate extravagance, was the foundation from silica- the dicssraakr vorliyj, and co arsonist of toll and tcmi tle 1 sax totting of mony was eparwl to Einij th toilette of the e!israute of t'-.t pt"irl a marvel o &rt!st!e drssiasr. TLcsa aiue effects prevail today la tae B-wis that tbe bct makers of I'arls are tumuit: vut Xrr favored clients. Just at te tncitat wxiilag tbete are few "pi ays f a r'--t,fi." as they term dramas of his tcrlc iaiKf th&jn cwUuoi&r; jctsea, cu l;-". K " ' lW b X" Mil .M iW Iff l ; " S w -x & lvL )j v L-izAviLsy ..... -J lteiKt - . the boards In Tarls, and hence the gowns displayed nightly by leading lights of the stage may well be taken as guides to the modes current and to come. Jacket bodices are making a strong bid for favor, and since they afford a charm ing chance for the most lavish elaboration the reason for their acceptance is not far to seek, nor hard to find. The best of those present frivolous little basquines that are tacked on at almost any point below the bust, and that flare smartly out from the body. Quite as often as not those little basquines are continued In the back and extended Into postilion effects. Where the gown is intended merely for afternoon wear those are left plain, merely being lined with some dainty silk of a harmon izing tint, with perhaps a piping along the edge. But when adapted to a frock of formal intent the postilion back Is cas caded with pllsse chiffon, tulllne, or lace, and appliques or embroideries of band work are posed In their centers. Entirely dependent upon the height and carriage of the wearer Is the length of the back of those charming coats or jackets or bodices, or whatever one chooses to call them. They may reach quite to the hem of the long-trained skirt, or they may end at some quarter of a yard below the waist line. Just whatever will prove most 'be coming Is correct. In the reaching out after extravagant elaboration the designer of today makes use of welinigh everything that may pos sibly be turned to dressy account. Ostrich feathers and marabout appear In what might formerly be considered queer con nections. For example, the decolletage of a fluffy frock in white tulllne is defined with a band of the palest blue marabout, this brought down In a bias strap to end In the deep swathed celnture of pale-blue satin. Each one of the four fluffy flounces on the skirt disclose a similar border, a little spray that stands up after the order of a hussar plume is stuck in the coiffure, and the fluttering fan Is altogether of pale blue ostrich and marabout combined, while instead of sleeves there are merely three drooping blue ostrich tips on each shoul der. Fur trimmings are scheduled to appear Qn both cloth and velvet gowns, and it Is co uncommon thing to run across models for evening wear in which white satin and sables, pale pink and beaver, brown spangles and mink are cleverly contrasted, the heavy fur making the gown, the wearer, the entire mlse en scene in which It is worn take on an aspect of added luxury and extravagance. In the resurrection of the rever as a corsage accessory there opens up a field for elaboration that the clever trimmer is not going to overlook. All sorts of trim ming schemes are possible on those, whether they be used singly or in over lapping sets. Embroideries, encrustations, lace allovers. Insertions, edgings and pip ings all find adequate application on the rever, while as for the vest or waistcoat it may be as simply severe, or as elab orately extravagant as the designer chooses to make it. . Buttons and buckles form another Item of expense that cannot well be avoided where the later modes are followed. All sorts of extravagances are possible here, from the plain horn button that decorates the tailor-made up to the elaborately cut and Jeweled disc that appears on the swart dinner or bridge coat. The artist metal worker and 'this is a field of de sign Hiich maav woiuen have taken up acd found exceedingly profitable displays the tavit fetching: effects, aad where cost U not a consideration aosi fccautlfwl re sults can be achieved in the!r use on coat or gown. Beaded buttons displaying Dres den designs wrought out In natural color lags and the tiniest beis are a smart fad of the moment, aad they seem equally ap jcrsurUt vku aiacst e&y. labile. i i &sg&s!s!& i Fashion and the Costly Russian Sables. The all-saving art of the furrier that lets no scrap of a costly fur go to waste makes a modish use oT the full sable skins, as depicted In the illustration. Here there are six full skins of this little animal cleverly mounted to flat scarf shape, the skins not being flat-split, but employed in their natural roundness. It requires six full skins to make this design, and when one considers that a thousand dollars for a single fine skin is not by any means a record price, the value of a smart set in sables can readily be reckoned. The little heads and tails are used complete, and even the little paws with their curved claws like a kitten's hang either side of the head and tail. The muff is of the flat pouch shape, narrow at the top to widen somewhat toward the bottom, where a fringe of alternate tails and paws makes for an effective finish. The accompanying chapeau depicts one of the broad-brimmed styles of the Dl rectoire period. The high crown is en swathed in a soft chiffon moire silk, and the brim curves up artistically at the side, with a wealth of white plumes nodding over the edge. Just a mere suspicion of a bandeau is used at the left side, and the shape conforms more to the size of the head ' than many recent ones have done. In Royal Ermine. Last season it was the snowy white ermine that was demanded of the fur riers, but so skilfully was that imitated In the cheapest kind of pelts that nowa days Dame Fashion demands the ermine that shows a slightly yellowish cast throughout, thus making a virtue of what was formerly considered a blemish. A right royal set is that pictured herewith. The long stole . Is narrowed at the - neck portion, so that It sets well around the throat without any clumsiness' or undue thickness, and below that point it broad ens gradually ' to the waistline, where whole skins are applied flat and trimmed with a fringe of little paws and talis. It really would seem as though the ermine might be likened to the cat-o'-nlne tails, for there certainly does seem to be an undue allowance of those effective little tails that start yellow at the base and deeDen into black at the tin. One tail to one ermine seems to be all too little ; for fashion purposes, but since the fur rier assures us that hey are all genuine ermine tails there is nothing to do but agree with him. The muff shows that smart turnover effect that is one of the later novelties, paws and tails being al ternated in proportion to their natural occurrence. In Velveteen and Ostrich. A clever blending of styles la effected In this delightful costume, in which a mordore, or rather a marron, brown vel veteen is contrasted with ecru broadcloth and a somewhat deeper shade of satin. The skirt is built up in a simulated princesse style to the bust line, where It meets a yoke of elaborate Cluny lace, fancy stitches and chiffon. Over this is posed a short-waisted little bolero that stands well out from the figure, and by its fulness emphasizes the slenderness of the waistline that it barely discloses. The fit at the waist and above and below it is -effected in the use of pleats, the material being folded on Itself to achieve the right curve and then cut away be neath so that there is neither bulk nor cmp&uiess to crore undesirable, Xfe lit- In the World gf Dress. Dainty Little Fashion Touches That Tell Much: Dlrectoire Jabots are Imported from France in the daintiest of materials. More often than not lingerie styles are pre sented, and the best of them come with out any collar attachment. They are in tended to be applied with a fancy pin immediately below a high stock collar, and they may take on the order of a short and fluffy piece, or extend to come welinigh to the waistline. Handkerchief linen, linen batiste and the finest of French nainsook are em ployed, and much band embroidery, inser tions and edgings of fine real laces, and some old-fashioned veilings, go to their elaboration. Exclusive shops are display ing the most fetching little items in this connection, and prices begin somewhere In the vicinity of a five-dollar bill. Little Butterfly Bows are fashioned of sheer batiste and Valenciennes lace, and are Intended to be tucked Into the front of the high turnover linen collar that will be worn extensively this sea son In connection with the plain and severe type of shirtwaist that is to pre vail. Those same linen collars, severe as they are in outline, are nevertheless made the medium of much decoration. Hand-embroideries, tiny tucklngs, hem stitching and veinings abound; and it is no uncommon thing to see this shape with the turnover part altogether in point coupe, or the cut-out work that the Italian peasants so excel In. The Jfew Collars take a decided up ward turn right beneath the ears, and so serve as a frame for the face. It takes quite a knack to fit this shape cor rectly, and the little rods of featherbone that we are wosjt to use as collar sup ports must be carefully adjusted, so that exactly the right line under the ear is maintained. The woman with a doubie chin will welcome this style, since It serves to attract, attention from the blunted line below the face. Machine Stitching- la making Itself extremely prominent as a trimming effects among the tailor-mades. All sorts of Intricate patterns are seen in this, a coarse and heavy silk, occasionally In a shade to contratwlth the cloth - back ground, yielding especially good results. Occasionally the pattern is cut out ia the tie fiat sailor shape, while by no means new. Is still retained by those to whom it has invariably proven becoming; and It Is brought up to date in the clever fashion in which the plumes are adjusted to cover the baofc ani fali gracefully on the hair. One of those novel fischu-shaped pieces of fluffy ostrich In the palest shade of blue accompanies - the costume, adding a touch of elegance . to a . gown already daintily elaborate. . Only the longest and the fullest flues are possible In a piece like this, and the cost comjaenaurate with, tho qua litis cloth skirt, a coarse net applied under neath, and all the edges machine stitched to this, or else a design is cut out in cloth, silk or velvet and appliqued to the skirt and jacket, both by means of the sewing machine. Leather Trlmmlnici remain In good standing for the walking and utilitarian style of dress. One of the latest conceits in this direction employs leather as a background for marvelous patterns that are carried out In tiny silk cords and metaline threads, that are couched down on the skin instead of being used In the ordinary fashion. A clever blending of colors makes for a wonderful effect in this direction, and as the work Is rapidly done, it Is a temptation rather than otherwise to plan for several bets of vest, collar and cuffs all to match. Braids and Braiding's are to experi ence a perfect furore tbjs winter In ail sorts of new and novel applications. On cloth and velvet gowns, upon furs, and even upon chiffon, one sees braids of varying types used with a lavish hand. Rarely Is one size or pattern In braid alone relied upon; but as many as three or four are deftly' blended, so that the effect Is one of extreme elaboration. Belts are more elaborate and extrava gant than ever. Embroidered velvets, silks, cloths and braids are well boned at back and sides, to fasten with a buckle that is deep rather than broad in front. Little side slides receive much attention, and the trimming of the back is fully as Important as that of the front. Some Sew Shirt-waists are made to fasten in the front, with an attached turnover collar of the Byron pattern. A double ruffle of pleating of the goods ap pears either side of the front fastening, the buttons appearing In the center of the narrow box pleat that serves ss a foundation for those Dlrectoire ruffles. The collar and sleeve are likewise fin ished with this ruffle, and though such blouses come from the best makers In Paris, are all hand-made and by no means inexpensive, it must be confessed that they bear a close resemblance to gar ments of the negligee type rather than to a smart shirtwaist that may appear on the street under a pretty Eton or bolero jacket. An Effective Mara boat Set. Charming-to a degree Is this attractive set in the natural brown marabout, with Its many little pendant fringe pieces tipped with white. For the requirements of the between-season weeks, ' when a wrap is all too heavy, and the gow worn without one seems more or leas Incom plete for an outdoor appearance, fashion so far has offered nothing that fits In so delightfully as does the feathered and feathery effects that are so modish at the moment. - The stole Is one of those straight four strand affairs, the strand connected, at Intervals by stem stitches In a stout but tonhole twist, to fall In a cascade of white foamy-tipped tails at the ends. The smart little muff is a round, granny shape In the dun-colored marabout, with a group of the . foamy tips used at one side, where they fall with graceful ef fect. The chapeau that Is depicted herewith is one of the most graceful and at the same time most practical models of the season. While not attaining to the ex treme that marks so many of the later modes, It Is still sufficiently -novel to at tract an admiring attention. The crown is a . round bowl shape that sets com fortably to the size of the head, and Is covered ia a soft shade of mole-brown velvet, a shade that Is almost Indescrib able in its blendings of smoke-gray, yel low and brown. . The French well term this tint fume de tolt, or turf smoke. It being just' that yellowish smoky tint that one sees when turf Is burnt. The crown and the brim, the latter to with in a few inches of its edge, are covered with the velvet. The brim Is shallow on ooe side and front, while the other side rises abruptly, where fluffy ostrich plumes are draped, with an upstanding aigrette to give a note of character and emphasis. The crown is encircled with a wreath of velvet roses of a tone slightly darker than the velvet covering of the chapeau. White Fox Is Highly Modish. One almost Involuntarily associates vel vets with furs of the most costly order, and there Is an air of luxurious elegance to this combination whenever and however presented. Worn over a calling costume In dead black velveteen, relieved with some exquisite Irish crochet on the cor sage, which stands out In bold relief, a little touch of real chantllly In black add ing a piquant note of emphasis, a stole and muff of white fox take on an added air of extravagant luxury. The stole de mands the entire skin, and is used in the round state, so that both sides are alike. There is a double brush, one . appearing at each end of the scarf, and paws ac company ohv either side. The muff is a round shape that Is a trine wider at tne bottom than at the top, this little flare out at the end being highly approved In the later manifestations of fashion. A foil and fluffy brush Is tacked on to either side snd fails just below the wrist when the hand is inserted. The Attraction of Chinchilla. Becoming almost as costly as Russian sables, chinchilla is even more modish than ever, despite the fact that It has been prominent for well nigh a decade. The delicate little skins will not bear harsh wear or handling, and the color soon fades nnder the stress of usage. In spite of those drawbacks, or maybe be cause of them, chinchilla Is to be worn by maid and matron , alike, and "It will take a well-filled purse to meet the re quirement of the mode In this costly fur. A charming set is that Illustrated, in which chapeau, scarf and muff are all en suite. The hat is moderate ia size, with a drum-shaped crown, and a brim that rises becomingly at one side. A froth of white malinette is posed on the Inevitable bandeau nnder the brim and the foamy white feather-ends in a touch of pale blue at the tip. The scarf has a shaped neckpiece that sets flatly on the shoulders, ending In seeming loops that are deco rated with cord passementeries, xo toil two pendant straight pieces are attached that hang below the waist line. The muff Is one of the latest shapes, with a smart dowr curve In : the center top, and a clever mancbon or cuff effect at the sides. This shape ; was especially in vented to meet the requirements of the short sleeves and long gloves . fad, and sets well np on the arms, making op for the lack of warmta that absence c leave presents.- Fluffy Effects in Ostrich Feathers,' Fur, and Marabout Cravats j Scarfs Stoles and Pelerines to .Meet Between-Season Needs Fetching Little Muffs That Con ceal Many a Convenience Monochome Effects and Clever Contrasts Hats That Favor Later Modes' Feather Toques The Fur-Trimmed Felt And All-Fur Chapeaux Are to B Highly Modish. The toilette for the street, whefBer ft the carriage' or the promenade. Is not considered complete until some one or an-1 other of those fetching, fluffy little noth-j Ings that the Parlalenne terms her tour; de coo (really and literally "around the neck") has been carefully posed over the shoulders and the hands thrust carelessly Into a frivolous-looking muff to match, f Just a few short weeks ago the outdoor toilette seemed complete enough without this fetching addition, but so quickly la the eye educated to all tt.et Is novel and attractive in fashion that now the figure seems lacking In some essential until one or another of those charming but expen sive little nothings Is added. That this Is to be a marabout season there is not even a shadow of a doubt. For several seasons smsrt women 1b England and France have showed a d elded leaning to this extremely effective and becoming piece of flufflnesi. As usaal, however, we bare been a trifle slow to adopt It generally on this side of the water, but, its vogue once started. It is sure of a general and enthusiastic acceptance. r' Some pretty little cravats are shown In this that follow the very same designs ss the best furriers sre putting forth In sable, mink and ermine. The character istic four-ln-band knot Is shaped and sown on permanently, and the other end. of the scarf Is slipped through this, a' fsncy pin serving to bold It fastened. j The flat-shaped ostrich feather band that makes such a frilly framing for coat collar and cuff takes on the most charm ing hues In Its new presentation. AH of( those elusive nuances of the color card,' which one finds at their best In velvets and satin-faced broadcloths of the chif fon variety, are faithfully reproduced In the flat ostrich pieces. They really take on a semblance of a plume of exquisite quality just laid flat on the collar, and pinned around the cuff, but a glance at the reverse side shows a carefully padded ribbon band, on which the plume, quill and all. Is deftly sewn. Marabout and ostrich make an especial ly effective combination. Sometimes one sees the ostrich flues fringed In at In tervals In a marabout stole, making a fringed line scross the width of It. Tas sels of marabbut are tipped with ostrich, and fluffy little balls of the former, strung on a sliver cord, are much used as a finish. One sees all of .the delicate tints in four and five strand stoles that are charming to throw around the r boulders with an evening frock. When heavy lace, such as Iriah crochet, polnte d'aiguille, the Irish or the Russian guipures. Is used between the strands an airy effect Is attained that cannot fall to charm. In furs, with the fad for light colors and delicate tints, there is bound to be much white fox, polar bear, ermine, chin chilla and the gray caracul used. In wblte there sre some chsrmlng effects. Long stoles snd pelerines that are point-, ed almost to the waistline in the bad, . and cross over to the left side In the front, to find a fastening, and charming round boas, dotted with little made ani mal beads, are extremely modish for young folks. In wblte fox they are espe cially effective, th'i soft. loDg fur proving a beautiful frame for the face. In ermine and chinchilla and the shorter-haired furs dainty to a degree are the designs that are already accepted for the coming season's wear. There are high military collars, that clasp closely around the throat, with pendant jabotlike pieces that are trimmed with lace and tails. Like the little Dlrectoire jabots that are described elsewhere on this page, they may be short, coming just but a few inches be. lw the throat, or they may extend al most to the waistline. But in either case there Is a muff of the most fanciful or der to match. . And in those same muffs there Is a de lightful variety to choose from, both as to size and style. There are flat, pooch sbsped affairs, sdorned with bunches of velvet ribbon loops, caught with a smart buckle and tacked loosely to the front of the muff, either somewhat to one side or In the . center. Others sre down-curved in the center, to rise well at the sides. this shape meeting the fad for long gloves and short sleeves, the frill that finishes the sides being likewise so shaped that It runs weU up on the arm. Those, too, display their quota of trimming, in which silk tassels," as well as little pendant balls of the fur, are often prominent. The feather toque is just about as sure a visitor In the sutumn as the Indian summer Itself. They have many good qualities to commend them, those little toques and turbans, not the least of which ia-their compactness, their light ness, and, above ail. the artistic colorings In which it is possible now to obtain them. As a successor to the feather toque when the season wanes the fur hat srtts be In the ascendant. FluCy little trine mi ngs of ostrich and marabout will malsv j tain prestige where the fur bat t aoa cerned, and velvet ribbon, shot aad pllse) . chiffon and velvet flowers aad foliage Stsf used with a discriminating band la thr trimming of such aa bare already msS ' their agyea rases.