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A4ooflooooMooNooNooHooMooMooMooMooMooMooMooNooHooMooMooNoot' o 004 o jo FASHIONS FROM i o o SlooMaoMiioMooMooMooMooHcoHooMooMooMaoMooMooNocMooNooMocMio O i e kgscHooMooMooMooMooMocMooMooMooNool PARIS. July 14. La belle Amerl caine reigns in Paris. It seems as if the town had been entirely re populated from the other side of the At lantic. The French are endeavoring to convey the idea that nothing could pleaso them better than this invasion of the Yankees, for the Americans spend more money than any other class of tourists and are less skillful in the eva sion of impositions. Besides, in this crisis France feels that she needs the friendship of America or anybody else in the struggle that will follow the at tempt to partition China among the powers. Bnglish people are not very numerous In Paris, for the Prince of Wales and every member of the English royal family has very properly shown re sentment at the French slights to the qu.en. both in the press and by public individuals. None of the crowned heads, with the exception of the king of Sweden and the shah of Persia, has attended the exposition, and this, added to the delay in finishing the exhibits, has made the great fair fall decidedly flat. Were it not for the Americans mat ters -social would be at a standstill, for the old noblesse, which constitutes the aristocratic circle, takes little interest in the entertainment of even very rich nobodies. Many rich Americans have taken houses in the city for the expo sition months and are endeavoring to dazzle Paris with the same lavish hos pitality that buys an entree into Amer icnn social circles. Very few of these rich American women have had even the slightest approach to counter civili ties from the Faubourg St. Germain, aDd their ablest efforts have been coldly received. The real American so cial leaders in Paris are "Mrs. Potter Palmer, Mrs. Ferdinand W. Peck, wife of the commissioner; Mrs. Thomas Walsh of Colorado and Mrs., Horace Porter, wife of the embassador. Con siderable rivalry is said to exist be tween Mrs. Palmer and Mrs. Peck, al though it is evident that the former has a good deal the better of the battle for social supremacy. The Parisians admire Mrs. Palmer's beauty and chic very much. Always well dressed, she makes a special point of appearing well here. Her penchant !s for white, and very striking she look ed at a recent dinner party in a gown of white nun's veiling exquisitely out lined with black lace. With the gown she wore a large picture hat trimmed with black plumes and white. The good taste of the Anrerican ladies in appearing at restaurant dinners in high necked gowns and hats has been fa vorably commented on by the French, with whom the English custom of ap pearing in public places clad decollete is ridiculed. At one of the receptions given at the American embassy in the Rue Villejust a very beautiful American girl display ed a toilet notable for its simplicity and charm. It was of white organdie sprin kled with delicate pink rosebuds, which added to the quaintness of the effect introduced by the cut of the garment. The five gored skirt was trimmed with a couple of accordion plaited flounces edged with black baby ribbon, while the corsage was built after the fashion known as baby waist. A narrow fitted i KEEP COOL" Fi The II 1V-L-JL1 V THE most difficult problem with which housekeepers have to deal during the months of July, Au gust and September is not how to keep the house cool, but how to believe that they are cool. Self deception is nine tenths of the battle, no matter what we may be striving to achieve. If we lived in ice palsices or snow houses dur ing the summer, the imagination would hare less chance of development, but we might be more comfortable. Screens for the windows, bamboo shades for the porch, lawn sprinklers, porch chairs, electric fans, hammocks and tents upon the lawn are but devices to cheat the credulous soul of mankind, always anxious to believe that things, even temperature, are not what they are. but what he wishes them to be. The American fashion of furnishing the house in summer with diaphanous curtains and substituting bamboo or wicker chairs and couches for the heavy wood furniture xised during the inter is a good one. The wicker furni ture is ventilated and therefore cooler than airtight or upholstered pieces. The wicker furniture of today, unlike that of a few years ago, is extremely -picturesque and affords great variety in kind and quality. Of armchairs there are patterns ga lore. Some of them hive the long wick er valance below, others are made with mere suggestions of egs, while still others have ornamental, supports, all of wood. The chairs, are always deep and wide roomy, they are called and af ford plenty of space for silken cushions. Some of the chairs are supplied with wide rest3 at the sides for arms, books, magazines, a cooling glass of lemonade or a comforting box of bonbons. Foot rests that can be pushed under when not in use are attacheil to some easy chairs. The settees are m erely enlarged chairs and are capable of accommodat ing from two to four persons. A flat cushion, as a rule, orna ments the seat of the chair, and the side cushions are fluffy, soft looking affairsi, covered with some light and airy fabric Corner set tees are very effective in furnishing ei ther the summer parlor or the veranda. One of the most picturesque of the set tles is modeled on the little Trianon style, with high back and sides. Bamboo or wicker corrcTn?s are a com paratively recent innovation. They are made in many different styles and when drapjd with gayly colored dra peries and. cushions are vory effective In the decorative scheme. One of the bertha outlined the neck and was trim med with a narrow organdie ruchlng edged wyh baby ribbon of yeivet. The sleeves were elbow length ana were fin ished with a two inch, ruffle. The waist was encircled by a girdle of white taffeta, falling in pendants to the bot tom of the skirt. One cannot but notice the elegance of effect which couturieres are striving to give to the new bodices. This is attain ed by means of both trimming and cut. Of the trimmings lace put on in flat bands is one frequently, adopted. So cleverly are the bands applied to the fabric that in many cases they seem to be part of the cloth. Black velvet rib bons have also a large importance in the hands of the skilled bodice maker. Many fashionable bodices are fashion ed entirely of pieces of lace and nar row ribbons pieced together in wonder ful style over a model in such a way as to seem to be molded on the human figure when worn. The artistic value of the new sleeves is very great: it permits the dressmak er to shape them to satisfy the require ments of the' figure and permits of very rich trimmings and elaboration. I no ticed a very skillful use of the, sleeves the other afternoon in one of the shops. The bodice was made of fitted guipure over silk. Over this was a draped bo lero falling from a heading of several rows of close shirring, of which the mantua maker's art succeeded in mak ing the wide sleeves puffed at the el bow to meet an armlet of lace appear mere continuations. Two straps of black velvet ribbon clasped by jeweled buttons held together the fronts of the bolero. Crepe de chine is very much used for blouses and lends itself admirably to that use. For house blouses it is espe cially effective. Parisian women do not wear blouses upon the street except with skirt and tailor made jacket. Of course, this is strange to Americans, who are used to donning them for all occasions. The Frenchwoman always wears her little coat over her shirt waist, and would as soon think of ap- ft - VVl odd designs is a low, flat foundation section, with a high headpiece and sloping sides. The low couches with unprotected sides and those with the low rail are very much liked for porch use. It is a strange fact that the couches, although larger, are less expensive than the settles, the fancy backs of the lat ter requiring much extra labor and time on the part of the workman. Wicker screens, though little adapted for keeping off the sun. are a present fad in summer furnishing; so also are wicker tea tables. The tables are round or square and are made -with shelves designed to accommodate plates, cups , and saucers too numerous to find place on the tray. Of course, in furnishing the summer parlor, sitting room or bedroom a hard wood or painted floor is one of the im portant requirements in the. achieving of coolness. Matting on the floor is a sometime substitute, but most matting soils or wrinkles when much used. The I oot o PARIS. of or to to O DOM pearing without it as would aman of fashion of walking abroad in his shirt sleeves. One sees a good many indications that point to the revival of modified over skirt effects. A handsome gown of white lawn, trimmed with narrow tucks 1 II ii mU f - -1. 3 ,. - hard wood or painted floor covered with a dark rug is eye satisfying and serv iceable. No windows should be without shades and awnings. Better a trifle less ex- penditure in furnishing than discom fort from the heat. Electric fans are .so cheap now that almost any family can afford them. iiiiisi A SUMMER PAKLOK. and lace, was cut with a pointed oyer skirt to fall over an underskirt of ruf fles. The points were some half dozen in number and edged with narrow lace, above which rose row after row of the tucks. A deep point of tucks and lace was applied to the front of the bodice, with a point carried out on the back in smaller size. Fnderneath the lower part of the points and beginning at the waist was a rather novel arrangement consisting of encircling rows of deep tucks, which, as the wearer of the gown was slim, looked very well, but would be a dangerous experiment for one in clined to embonpoint. Very cool and charming are the gowns of printed muslin having skirts laid in horizontal tucks and with vests f J A GIRLISH EVENING GOWN. Light curtains should protect the win dows, and all dark and heavy portieres should be removed and thin ones sub stituted for them. Flowers should be used with a good deal of generosity, for. even though they do not serve to cool the atmosphere, their appearance of coolness is gratifying to the eye. Lawn sprinklers that look like fountains In III bir!? rT tlW 111 r- 1 4i- , of thin white stuff rounded out as if put in to fill a low cut bodice. The neck may be draped by a chiffon scarf falling In long ends in front. The girdle is usually of ribbon, from which fall long sash ends. For use with such gowns It is very convenient to have a collection of chemisettes of the daintily lace or ribbon trimmed sort, wear of which would vary the effect of a limited wardrobe very nicely. Plenty of pretty ribbons, too, are indispensable this sea son, for a handsome girdle is a part of every modish summer frock. A great deal of handsome Jewelry is being worn this summer. The fad of the hour for small pin and belt clasps is the enameled Egyptian beetle, which Is made with a horrid semblance of life- operation help to cool off the sward aft er a long day of trying heat. LAURA FIELD. Dinner Table Decorations. The newest way of decorating the dinner table is to place in front of each guest a little basket made of silver, crystal or china filled with flowers. The middle of the table is occupied by a mirror, with delicate silver trimmings, and plates of bonbons encircled by gar lands of flowers are arranged on the mirror. Fruit and flowers are now frequently mingled In table decorations. In selecting flowers for the table care should be taken to avoid all those hav ing a strong scent, like the narcissus, tuberose, jasmine and hyacinth, as many persons are made ill by such odors. Scentless flowers, like the ca- mellia, tulip, crocks and Jonquil, are preferable, although roses and violets seldom cause annoyance. The smell of the chrysanthemum is usually quite in offensive, and it is an extremely dec orative flower. Ornamental foliage, green and colored, may also be used alone with excellent effect. likeness. For purses and chatelaine bags there is a revival of the old fash ioned beaded effects, such as were known to the days of our great-grandmothers. The wide rimmed Romney ehapes in millinery are as popular as they de serve to be. One cannot but notice ap preciatively the use of chiffon scarfs instead of strings. These are brought loosely around the neck and knotted instead of tied or else held in place with a jeweled clasp. White hats are most fashionable. . A charming hat on this order consisted of narrow white frills and fine tuscan straw, the upturn ed and flaring front being seemingly upheld by a sparkling buckle that was thrust straight through the brim of the hat. Underneath the clasp covered a fluffy facing, of white chiffon, with a white ostrich plume stretching around one side. On the crown a cluster of handsome black plumes were the sole trimming. The frilled brim gave to the face of the wearer the appearance of emerging from a huge white flower. CATHERINE TALBOT. Chemises and Corset Covers. Some of the prettiest new chemises have shoulder straps of ribbon instead of sleeves, and this design, you may be sure, is vastly admired and appreciated by the girl who possesses a well molded arm and a pretty, white, dimpled shoul der. The garment is gored, flounced and frilled with lace, the upper part being a mass of insertion and lace. The top ts cut square and is gathered and drawn up to fit the figure just under the arms, the pretty .Bilk shoulder straps keeping it in its plaee. Corset covers are also provided with ribbons. Something new is the bolero corset cover. It is also to be noted that many of the new corset covers end at the waist thus, doing away with all unnecessary fullness about the hips. Nightgowns, with low neck and elbow sleeves, are the fancy for the moment for these garments. It is certainly a very comfortable Jashion for summer. Some of the newest designs are posi tively decollete. Cambric nightgowns are Telegated to the place occupied by muslin nightgowns a few years ago, but the nainsook nightrobes are favored most of all by fashionable women. They are very dainty, elegant and comforta ble. ITALIAN CREAM. Put a pint of cold milk into a sauce pan with the thinly pared rind of a small lemon and sufficient white sugar to sweeten it and let it simmer for ten minutes. Add one ounce of gelatin which has been previously soaked in cold milk, and as soon as it is melted remove the pan from the stove and strain the contents into a basin; stand the latter in a deep pan and surround it with cold water, which should be changed frequently. Whisk the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, and as soon as the milk jelly shows signs of settling add a ta blespoonful of sherry to it and beat it with an egg beater for a few minutes: then stir in the whites of the eggs and sufficient carmine to make it a pretty rose pink and whisk the mixture until it is light and spongy. Rinse a mold with cold water and fill it with the "cream," and put it aside until it is sufficiently firm to turn out, and serve it surrounded by canned apricots. Vocal Exercise. The value of vocal exercise upon the general health is not sufficiently rec ognized by the majority; but those who have studied the matter tell us that even the practice of reading aloud has a great and beneficial influence upon the health. To quote the words of an authority: " Persons who have a tendency to pul monary disease should methodically practice those actions of the body through which the chest is in part fill ed or emptied of air," and further ad vice is given to the effect that those whose chests are weak should read aloud at stated intervals and even re cite or sing, using due caution as to posture and articulation. These regular exercises of the voice may be rendered as salutary to the or gans of respiration as they are agree able in their influence on the voice. Moreover, vocal exercise often improves the contour of a thin throat, and is thereby a beautifier. Ontstandtng: Ears. The disfigurement of outstanding ears should be checked in early childhood, otherwise it is apt to be an obstinate matter to overcome. Various simple little expedients may be resorted to in order to accomplish the end aimed at. For instance, a broad elastic strap or webbing band passed from the lower part of the back of the head obliquely across the ears to the top of the brow will help to conquer the disfigurement. This band can be worn at night or for an hour or two during the day, or as an alternative there is the special ear cap which has been invented with the ob ject of encouraging the ears to lie close against the head. The muslin caps which, years ago, babies used to wear acted in a great measure as preventives against obtruding ears. SEEN AT THE SUMMER SALES. This year the models for day , and evening gowns seem prettier than ever. The cloth gowns are in the most deli cate pastel shades, strapped and stitch ed in self or contrasting colors, with facings of satin or embroidered silk and vests of lace and chiffon. A pretty evening gown of black net is embroidered lightly on the skirt with Jet in horizontal lines, which terminate in many flounces, flowing out well at the feet, the bodice of the same, softly trimmed with tulle, of which' the small sleeves are composed. The coats and skirts at the summer sales are always a speeial item, as well as the single coats, silk lined. The shops have many of their new models in furs to be sold at summer prices. One long fur coat, after the empire style, is made of such fine mink that it is almost impossible to tell it from sa ble. The small broadtail jackets, some times faced with contrasting furs, are essentially smart. The opera coats and cloaks are very beautiful. One after the sack order in Persian lamb is trimmed with lace and pale blue velvet round the shoulders, the lace falling in long stole ends in front. There is a great variety of shirts and blouses, as well as some unique uo 1 pretty French models in hats and toques, and, last, but not least, a charming array of neck ruffles. Gowns For the Seaside. For seaside wear the black and navy blue serge coats and skirts are most suitable. Cloth costumes are made ei ther with Eton Jackets or boleros. Mus lin gowns in white or colored fancy muslin trimmed with black and white lace are most summerlike and just what are wanted for warm days and garden parties. The same designs in china silk are a little higher price. There are foulards in a variety of de signs sold as robes or by the yard at nearly half the original price. The black dresses Include Sicilians, alpacas, poplins and repps. Home workers will appreciate the prices of blouse mate rials, whether in silk or cotton, colored or black. The millinery departments include a delightful show of hats and toques, as well as made up millinery, bows in silk or lace and the most natural looking artificial flowers. The lingerie depart ments have pretty dressing Jackets and morning wraps trimmed with Valenci ennes lace in white, with different col ored designs thrown on them, and the nightdresses and other underclothing display some excellent stitching. Shirt Waists. For the popular shirt waists the va riety of materials used is large, em bracing almost every kind of cotton dress fabric. They are of gingham, pique in white and colored grounds, with flowers or geometrical designs: linens, madras, mercerized sea island cotton and percales. Then there are batistes, Persian lawns very fine and sheer, organdie and thin silks. Em broidered mull in delicate tints is one of the most favored materials for the aes thetic waist. All over embroideries are used for white waists, and the wash silk waists are among the most fash ionable this season. China silk plaited in narrow box plaits, all over with very narrow embroidered insertion filling in the space between, is used for stylish waists, and still another style of waist is made entirely of alternate rows oi wash ribbon and lace insertion. BREAKFAST. Fruit. Oatmeal anil Milk. Fried ("hops. Fried Potatoes, Fried Tomatoes, i'lnm Jam. CofTc-e. FRIED POTATOES. Wash and peel the pots toes; cut them into eighth and these atrain into halves or quarters, aecordiria; to sire. Wipe ths slices as dry as possible in a clean cloth. Hars ready a saucepan three-qnarters full of hot fry ing fat. When a thin Tapor rise from the lat, put in some of the potatoes not too many at s time. Fry a nice brown, lift out, drain well, sprinkle with pepper and salt and serve at once. Fruit. Tomato Soup. Roast Beef. Roast Potatoes. Nasturtium Salad. Creamed Onions. AKparaKUS. Rolls and butter. Batter Puddine. Lemon Sauca. Coffee. BATTER PCrmiNC WITTl LEMON SAUCE. Put two heaped tabiespoonfuls of flour In a bowl; add a teaspoonful of bakimr powder and half s teaspoonful of salt. Break two ecirs (one at s time) into a cup; then turn them into ths flonr and blend well. Now add nearly 1 pint of milk, mixing it in slowly and stirring well to avoid lumps. Bntter a deep pie dish of suitable sire, pour in the batter and bake for three-quarters of an hour or perhaps a little lonirer. For the aaucs put two tablespoonfuls of sucar in a small enam eled saucepan, erate in the rind of a lemon and add the strained juice. Mix half a teaspoonful of cornmeal with a gill of cold water and mix wits otiier ingredients and allow to boil. Serve ths sauce and also powdered sugar with the pudding. LUNCHEOV OR TEA. Fruit. Creamed Potatoes. Fih Pudding. Rice Croquettes. Currant Tarts. Bread and Butter. Fresh Berries, Chocolate Cake. Tea or Chocolate. FISH PUDDINfJ. Flake any cold fish, havinf first removed all skin and bone. Mix with It as equal quantity of mashed potatoes, s lump of butter, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, a little an chovy sauce and an ee?. Crease a pudding basin, line it with browned crumbs, put in the ! mixture and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. Turn out on a hot dih. pour mustard, hollandaise or anchovy sauce round the base ens serve. Potato Cutlets. Boll some potatoes until they are thoroughly cooked, drain them well and mash them until they are free from lumps; then add a little milk, season with salt and pepper and beat them un til they are light and creamy, but they must not be too moist; stir in a small quantity of beaten egg and turn ths potato on to a floured board. Take about a dessertspoonful of it at a time) and form it into the shape of a small cutlet; when all are ready dip them into beaten egg and then into bread crumbs, and put them aside for half an hour be fore frying them. .mm