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The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, July 28, 1900, LAST EDITION, Editorial Section, Image 10

Image and text provided by Kansas State Historical Society; Topeka, KS

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn82016014/1900-07-28/ed-1/seq-10/

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PARIS. July 14. La belle Amerl
caine reigns in Paris. It seems as
if the town had been entirely re
populated from the other side of the At
lantic. The French are endeavoring to
convey the idea that nothing could
pleaso them better than this invasion
of the Yankees, for the Americans spend
more money than any other class of
tourists and are less skillful in the eva
sion of impositions. Besides, in this
crisis France feels that she needs the
friendship of America or anybody else
in the struggle that will follow the at
tempt to partition China among the
Bnglish people are not very numerous
In Paris, for the Prince of Wales and
every member of the English royal
family has very properly shown re
sentment at the French slights to the
qu.en. both in the press and by public
individuals. None of the crowned
heads, with the exception of the king
of Sweden and the shah of Persia, has
attended the exposition, and this, added
to the delay in finishing the exhibits,
has made the great fair fall decidedly
Were it not for the Americans mat
ters -social would be at a standstill, for
the old noblesse, which constitutes the
aristocratic circle, takes little interest
in the entertainment of even very rich
nobodies. Many rich Americans have
taken houses in the city for the expo
sition months and are endeavoring to
dazzle Paris with the same lavish hos
pitality that buys an entree into Amer
icnn social circles. Very few of these
rich American women have had even
the slightest approach to counter civili
ties from the Faubourg St. Germain,
aDd their ablest efforts have been
coldly received. The real American so
cial leaders in Paris are "Mrs. Potter
Palmer, Mrs. Ferdinand W. Peck, wife
of the commissioner; Mrs. Thomas
Walsh of Colorado and Mrs., Horace
Porter, wife of the embassador. Con
siderable rivalry is said to exist be
tween Mrs. Palmer and Mrs. Peck, al
though it is evident that the former
has a good deal the better of the battle
for social supremacy.
The Parisians admire Mrs. Palmer's
beauty and chic very much. Always
well dressed, she makes a special point
of appearing well here. Her penchant
!s for white, and very striking she look
ed at a recent dinner party in a gown
of white nun's veiling exquisitely out
lined with black lace. With the gown
she wore a large picture hat trimmed
with black plumes and white. The
good taste of the Anrerican ladies in
appearing at restaurant dinners in high
necked gowns and hats has been fa
vorably commented on by the French,
with whom the English custom of ap
pearing in public places clad decollete
is ridiculed.
At one of the receptions given at the
American embassy in the Rue Villejust
a very beautiful American girl display
ed a toilet notable for its simplicity and
charm. It was of white organdie sprin
kled with delicate pink rosebuds, which
added to the quaintness of the effect
introduced by the cut of the garment.
The five gored skirt was trimmed with
a couple of accordion plaited flounces
edged with black baby ribbon, while the
corsage was built after the fashion
known as baby waist. A narrow fitted i
Fi The
THE most difficult problem with
which housekeepers have to deal
during the months of July, Au
gust and September is not how to keep
the house cool, but how to believe that
they are cool. Self deception is nine
tenths of the battle, no matter what
we may be striving to achieve. If we
lived in ice palsices or snow houses dur
ing the summer, the imagination would
hare less chance of development, but
we might be more comfortable.
Screens for the windows, bamboo
shades for the porch, lawn sprinklers,
porch chairs, electric fans, hammocks
and tents upon the lawn are but devices
to cheat the credulous soul of mankind,
always anxious to believe that things,
even temperature, are not what they
are. but what he wishes them to be.
The American fashion of furnishing
the house in summer with diaphanous
curtains and substituting bamboo or
wicker chairs and couches for the
heavy wood furniture xised during the
inter is a good one. The wicker furni
ture is ventilated and therefore cooler
than airtight or upholstered pieces.
The wicker furniture of today, unlike
that of a few years ago, is extremely
-picturesque and affords great variety
in kind and quality.
Of armchairs there are patterns ga
lore. Some of them hive the long wick
er valance below, others are made with
mere suggestions of egs, while still
others have ornamental, supports, all of
wood. The chairs, are always deep and
wide roomy, they are called and af
ford plenty of space for silken cushions.
Some of the chairs are supplied with
wide rest3 at the sides for arms, books,
magazines, a cooling glass of lemonade
or a comforting box of bonbons. Foot
rests that can be pushed under when
not in use are attacheil to some easy
The settees are m erely enlarged
chairs and are capable of accommodat
ing from two to four persons. A flat
cushion, as a rule, orna ments the seat
of the chair, and the side cushions are
fluffy, soft looking affairsi, covered with
some light and airy fabric Corner set
tees are very effective in furnishing ei
ther the summer parlor or the veranda.
One of the most picturesque of the set
tles is modeled on the little Trianon
style, with high back and sides.
Bamboo or wicker corrcTn?s are a com
paratively recent innovation. They are
made in many different styles and
when drapjd with gayly colored dra
peries and. cushions are vory effective
In the decorative scheme. One of the
bertha outlined the neck and was trim
med with a narrow organdie ruchlng
edged wyh baby ribbon of yeivet. The
sleeves were elbow length ana were fin
ished with a two inch, ruffle. The
waist was encircled by a girdle of white
taffeta, falling in pendants to the bot
tom of the skirt.
One cannot but notice the elegance of
effect which couturieres are striving to
give to the new bodices. This is attain
ed by means of both trimming and cut.
Of the trimmings lace put on in flat
bands is one frequently, adopted. So
cleverly are the bands applied to the
fabric that in many cases they seem to
be part of the cloth. Black velvet rib
bons have also a large importance in
the hands of the skilled bodice maker.
Many fashionable bodices are fashion
ed entirely of pieces of lace and nar
row ribbons pieced together in wonder
ful style over a model in such a way as
to seem to be molded on the human
figure when worn.
The artistic value of the new sleeves
is very great: it permits the dressmak
er to shape them to satisfy the require
ments of the' figure and permits of very
rich trimmings and elaboration. I no
ticed a very skillful use of the, sleeves
the other afternoon in one of the shops.
The bodice was made of fitted guipure
over silk. Over this was a draped bo
lero falling from a heading of several
rows of close shirring, of which the
mantua maker's art succeeded in mak
ing the wide sleeves puffed at the el
bow to meet an armlet of lace appear
mere continuations. Two straps of
black velvet ribbon clasped by jeweled
buttons held together the fronts of the
Crepe de chine is very much used for
blouses and lends itself admirably to
that use. For house blouses it is espe
cially effective. Parisian women do not
wear blouses upon the street except
with skirt and tailor made jacket. Of
course, this is strange to Americans,
who are used to donning them for all
occasions. The Frenchwoman always
wears her little coat over her shirt
waist, and would as soon think of ap-
- VVl
odd designs is a low, flat foundation
section, with a high headpiece and
sloping sides. The low couches with
unprotected sides and those with the low
rail are very much liked for porch use.
It is a strange fact that the couches,
although larger, are less expensive than
the settles, the fancy backs of the lat
ter requiring much extra labor and
time on the part of the workman.
Wicker screens, though little adapted
for keeping off the sun. are a present
fad in summer furnishing; so also are
wicker tea tables. The tables are round
or square and are made -with shelves
designed to accommodate plates, cups ,
and saucers too numerous to find
place on the tray.
Of course, in furnishing the summer
parlor, sitting room or bedroom a hard
wood or painted floor is one of the im
portant requirements in the. achieving
of coolness. Matting on the floor is a
sometime substitute, but most matting
soils or wrinkles when much used. The
oot o
pearing without it as would aman of
fashion of walking abroad in his shirt
One sees a good many indications that
point to the revival of modified over
skirt effects. A handsome gown of
white lawn, trimmed with narrow tucks
1 II ii mU f -
3 ,. -
hard wood or painted floor covered with
a dark rug is eye satisfying and serv
iceable. No windows should be without shades
and awnings. Better a trifle less ex-
penditure in furnishing than discom
fort from the heat. Electric fans are
.so cheap now that almost any family
can afford them.
and lace, was cut with a pointed oyer
skirt to fall over an underskirt of ruf
fles. The points were some half dozen
in number and edged with narrow lace,
above which rose row after row of the
tucks. A deep point of tucks and lace
was applied to the front of the bodice,
with a point carried out on the back in
smaller size. Fnderneath the lower
part of the points and beginning at the
waist was a rather novel arrangement
consisting of encircling rows of deep
tucks, which, as the wearer of the gown
was slim, looked very well, but would
be a dangerous experiment for one in
clined to embonpoint.
Very cool and charming are the
gowns of printed muslin having skirts
laid in horizontal tucks and with vests
f J
Light curtains should protect the win
dows, and all dark and heavy portieres
should be removed and thin ones sub
stituted for them. Flowers should be
used with a good deal of generosity, for.
even though they do not serve to cool
the atmosphere, their appearance of
coolness is gratifying to the eye. Lawn
sprinklers that look like fountains In
III bir!? rT tlW
111 r- 1 4i- ,
of thin white stuff rounded out as if
put in to fill a low cut bodice. The
neck may be draped by a chiffon scarf
falling In long ends in front. The girdle
is usually of ribbon, from which fall
long sash ends. For use with such
gowns It is very convenient to have a
collection of chemisettes of the daintily
lace or ribbon trimmed sort, wear of
which would vary the effect of a limited
wardrobe very nicely. Plenty of pretty
ribbons, too, are indispensable this sea
son, for a handsome girdle is a part of
every modish summer frock.
A great deal of handsome Jewelry is
being worn this summer. The fad of
the hour for small pin and belt clasps
is the enameled Egyptian beetle, which
Is made with a horrid semblance of life-
operation help to cool off the sward aft
er a long day of trying heat.
Dinner Table Decorations.
The newest way of decorating the
dinner table is to place in front of each
guest a little basket made of silver,
crystal or china filled with flowers. The
middle of the table is occupied by a
mirror, with delicate silver trimmings,
and plates of bonbons encircled by gar
lands of flowers are arranged on the
mirror. Fruit and flowers are now
frequently mingled In table decorations.
In selecting flowers for the table care
should be taken to avoid all those hav
ing a strong scent, like the narcissus,
tuberose, jasmine and hyacinth, as
many persons are made ill by such
odors. Scentless flowers, like the ca-
mellia, tulip, crocks and Jonquil, are
preferable, although roses and violets
seldom cause annoyance. The smell of
the chrysanthemum is usually quite in
offensive, and it is an extremely dec
orative flower. Ornamental foliage,
green and colored, may also be used
alone with excellent effect.
likeness. For purses and chatelaine
bags there is a revival of the old fash
ioned beaded effects, such as were
known to the days of our great-grandmothers.
The wide rimmed Romney ehapes in
millinery are as popular as they de
serve to be. One cannot but notice ap
preciatively the use of chiffon scarfs
instead of strings. These are brought
loosely around the neck and knotted
instead of tied or else held in place
with a jeweled clasp. White hats are
most fashionable. . A charming hat on
this order consisted of narrow white
frills and fine tuscan straw, the upturn
ed and flaring front being seemingly
upheld by a sparkling buckle that was
thrust straight through the brim of
the hat. Underneath the clasp covered
a fluffy facing, of white chiffon, with a
white ostrich plume stretching around
one side. On the crown a cluster of
handsome black plumes were the sole
trimming. The frilled brim gave to the
face of the wearer the appearance of
emerging from a huge white flower.
Chemises and Corset Covers.
Some of the prettiest new chemises
have shoulder straps of ribbon instead
of sleeves, and this design, you may be
sure, is vastly admired and appreciated
by the girl who possesses a well molded
arm and a pretty, white, dimpled shoul
der. The garment is gored, flounced
and frilled with lace, the upper part
being a mass of insertion and lace. The
top ts cut square and is gathered and
drawn up to fit the figure just under
the arms, the pretty .Bilk shoulder
straps keeping it in its plaee.
Corset covers are also provided with
ribbons. Something new is the bolero
corset cover. It is also to be noted that
many of the new corset covers end at
the waist thus, doing away with all
unnecessary fullness about the hips.
Nightgowns, with low neck and elbow
sleeves, are the fancy for the moment
for these garments. It is certainly a
very comfortable Jashion for summer.
Some of the newest designs are posi
tively decollete. Cambric nightgowns
are Telegated to the place occupied by
muslin nightgowns a few years ago, but
the nainsook nightrobes are favored
most of all by fashionable women. They
are very dainty, elegant and comforta
Put a pint of cold milk into a sauce
pan with the thinly pared rind of a
small lemon and sufficient white sugar
to sweeten it and let it simmer for ten
minutes. Add one ounce of gelatin
which has been previously soaked in
cold milk, and as soon as it is melted
remove the pan from the stove and
strain the contents into a basin; stand
the latter in a deep pan and surround
it with cold water, which should be
changed frequently.
Whisk the whites of two eggs to a
stiff froth, and as soon as the milk
jelly shows signs of settling add a ta
blespoonful of sherry to it and beat it
with an egg beater for a few minutes:
then stir in the whites of the eggs and
sufficient carmine to make it a pretty
rose pink and whisk the mixture until
it is light and spongy.
Rinse a mold with cold water and fill
it with the "cream," and put it aside
until it is sufficiently firm to turn out,
and serve it surrounded by canned
Vocal Exercise.
The value of vocal exercise upon the
general health is not sufficiently rec
ognized by the majority; but those who
have studied the matter tell us that
even the practice of reading aloud has
a great and beneficial influence upon
the health. To quote the words of an
" Persons who have a tendency to pul
monary disease should methodically
practice those actions of the body
through which the chest is in part fill
ed or emptied of air," and further ad
vice is given to the effect that those
whose chests are weak should read
aloud at stated intervals and even re
cite or sing, using due caution as to
posture and articulation.
These regular exercises of the voice
may be rendered as salutary to the or
gans of respiration as they are agree
able in their influence on the voice.
Moreover, vocal exercise often improves
the contour of a thin throat, and is
thereby a beautifier.
Ontstandtng: Ears.
The disfigurement of outstanding ears
should be checked in early childhood,
otherwise it is apt to be an obstinate
matter to overcome. Various simple
little expedients may be resorted to in
order to accomplish the end aimed at.
For instance, a broad elastic strap or
webbing band passed from the lower
part of the back of the head obliquely
across the ears to the top of the brow
will help to conquer the disfigurement.
This band can be worn at night or for
an hour or two during the day, or as an
alternative there is the special ear cap
which has been invented with the ob
ject of encouraging the ears to lie close
against the head. The muslin caps
which, years ago, babies used to wear
acted in a great measure as preventives
against obtruding ears.
This year the models for day , and
evening gowns seem prettier than ever.
The cloth gowns are in the most deli
cate pastel shades, strapped and stitch
ed in self or contrasting colors, with
facings of satin or embroidered silk and
vests of lace and chiffon.
A pretty evening gown of black net
is embroidered lightly on the skirt with
Jet in horizontal lines, which terminate
in many flounces, flowing out well at
the feet, the bodice of the same, softly
trimmed with tulle, of which' the small
sleeves are composed.
The coats and skirts at the summer
sales are always a speeial item, as well
as the single coats, silk lined. The
shops have many of their new models
in furs to be sold at summer prices.
One long fur coat, after the empire
style, is made of such fine mink that it
is almost impossible to tell it from sa
ble. The small broadtail jackets, some
times faced with contrasting furs, are
essentially smart.
The opera coats and cloaks are very
beautiful. One after the sack order in
Persian lamb is trimmed with lace and
pale blue velvet round the shoulders,
the lace falling in long stole ends in
There is a great variety of shirts and
blouses, as well as some unique uo 1
pretty French models in hats and
toques, and, last, but not least, a
charming array of neck ruffles.
Gowns For the Seaside.
For seaside wear the black and navy
blue serge coats and skirts are most
suitable. Cloth costumes are made ei
ther with Eton Jackets or boleros. Mus
lin gowns in white or colored fancy
muslin trimmed with black and white
lace are most summerlike and just
what are wanted for warm days and
garden parties. The same designs in
china silk are a little higher price.
There are foulards in a variety of de
signs sold as robes or by the yard at
nearly half the original price. The
black dresses Include Sicilians, alpacas,
poplins and repps. Home workers will
appreciate the prices of blouse mate
rials, whether in silk or cotton, colored
or black.
The millinery departments include a
delightful show of hats and toques, as
well as made up millinery, bows in silk
or lace and the most natural looking
artificial flowers. The lingerie depart
ments have pretty dressing Jackets and
morning wraps trimmed with Valenci
ennes lace in white, with different col
ored designs thrown on them, and the
nightdresses and other underclothing
display some excellent stitching.
Shirt Waists.
For the popular shirt waists the va
riety of materials used is large, em
bracing almost every kind of cotton
dress fabric. They are of gingham,
pique in white and colored grounds,
with flowers or geometrical designs:
linens, madras, mercerized sea island
cotton and percales. Then there are
batistes, Persian lawns very fine and
sheer, organdie and thin silks. Em
broidered mull in delicate tints is one of
the most favored materials for the aes
thetic waist. All over embroideries are
used for white waists, and the wash
silk waists are among the most fash
ionable this season. China silk plaited
in narrow box plaits, all over with very
narrow embroidered insertion filling in
the space between, is used for stylish
waists, and still another style of waist
is made entirely of alternate rows oi
wash ribbon and lace insertion.
Oatmeal anil Milk.
Fried ("hops. Fried Potatoes,
Fried Tomatoes,
i'lnm Jam.
FRIED POTATOES. Wash and peel the pots
toes; cut them into eighth and these atrain into
halves or quarters, aecordiria; to sire. Wipe ths
slices as dry as possible in a clean cloth. Hars
ready a saucepan three-qnarters full of hot fry
ing fat. When a thin Tapor rise from the lat,
put in some of the potatoes not too many at s
time. Fry a nice brown, lift out, drain well,
sprinkle with pepper and salt and serve at once.
Tomato Soup.
Roast Beef. Roast Potatoes.
Nasturtium Salad. Creamed Onions.
AKparaKUS. Rolls and butter.
Batter Puddine. Lemon Sauca.
Put two heaped tabiespoonfuls of flour In a bowl;
add a teaspoonful of bakimr powder and half s
teaspoonful of salt. Break two ecirs (one at s
time) into a cup; then turn them into ths flonr
and blend well. Now add nearly 1 pint of milk,
mixing it in slowly and stirring well to avoid
lumps. Bntter a deep pie dish of suitable sire,
pour in the batter and bake for three-quarters of
an hour or perhaps a little lonirer. For the aaucs
put two tablespoonfuls of sucar in a small enam
eled saucepan, erate in the rind of a lemon and
add the strained juice. Mix half a teaspoonful of
cornmeal with a gill of cold water and mix wits
otiier ingredients and allow to boil. Serve ths
sauce and also powdered sugar with the pudding.
Creamed Potatoes. Fih Pudding.
Rice Croquettes. Currant Tarts.
Bread and Butter. Fresh Berries,
Chocolate Cake.
Tea or Chocolate.
FISH PUDDINfJ. Flake any cold fish, havinf
first removed all skin and bone. Mix with It as
equal quantity of mashed potatoes, s lump of
butter, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, a little an
chovy sauce and an ee?. Crease a pudding basin,
line it with browned crumbs, put in the !
mixture and bake for half an hour in a moderate
oven. Turn out on a hot dih. pour mustard,
hollandaise or anchovy sauce round the base ens
Potato Cutlets.
Boll some potatoes until they are
thoroughly cooked, drain them well and
mash them until they are free from
lumps; then add a little milk, season
with salt and pepper and beat them un
til they are light and creamy, but they
must not be too moist; stir in a small
quantity of beaten egg and turn ths
potato on to a floured board. Take
about a dessertspoonful of it at a time)
and form it into the shape of a small
cutlet; when all are ready dip them into
beaten egg and then into bread crumbs,
and put them aside for half an hour be
fore frying them.

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