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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, AUGUST 4, 1900.
PARIS FASHION LETTER. 5 3 PARIS, July 21. Parisian women do not take to the new Ladysmith hat. . A few English women who are here appear in them, but for the French type of face they are utterly impossible. A fresh faced young girl or a handsome woman of the most un deniable chic may dare one without dis advantage to her appearance, but then these tvnes could wear anything. The utilitv of the hat is not to be gainsaid no hat put upon' the market In recent years is so serviceable for outdoor wear, for it may be turned down in the front to shade the face and in the back to shade the neck, if so desired. The hats are made of coarse straw, which allows the air to circulate freely over the head. They are so inexpensive, with their simple trimming, consisting of a scarf of silk or muslin, that th& Ladysmith hats, if they were more or namental, might hope to supplant the sailor hats, which have seen such long and hard service that most women are a little tired of them. The draped neckbands worn so much this season are often lightened by a foundation of wire, which makes them cooler to the wearer than they appear to the uninitiated looker on. The lined neckbands trimmed with lace or net and having a sailor tie in front are very much worn, but on warm days they are far from comfortable. The ac cepted cut for high stocks is with points under the ears. They may be worn with a bow in front, in the back or at the sides. Never have summer gowns of washa ble materials been daintier and prettier than ' "this - season. Gowns of dimity made with lace trimmed frills are crea tions considered worthy the closest at tention of the kings of the dressmaking craft. Little sprays of flowers are sprinkled over the surfaces of. corded or dotted dimities, some of the cords being of the delicate shades of the flowers and charmingly decorative. Many new wov en white materials are being prepared, and there is a quite apparent effort on the part of manufacturers to hit upon something which will succeed to the popularity of duck. Butchers' linen in various colors and degrees of fineness Is being made into gowns, while piques, sateens, Bengal silks and surah poplins afford admirable effects. It Is so difficult to obtain anything really new and picturesque for the lit tle folks that I cannot refrain from mentioning a little white pique pelisse now being sent home from one of the shops on the Rue de la Faix for one of the little continental royalties. The garment is made with box plaits on a loose sack shaped foundation of the pique, which is divided by bands of muslin embroidered insertion. With this is to be worn a very large collar of pique and insertion. Older children wear very pretty frocks of book mus lin, with a deep frill of Valenciennes lace at the hem. insertions above and a yoke of muslin and insertion to match. A white muslin overall for a little girl, with front and back yokes decorat ed with rows of narrow frilled ribbon, makes a useful garment to wear over a tinted muslin slip or a woolen or silk frock on cold days when muslin robes are out of the question. About the round yokes a frill of soft lace should be sewed, and the. sleeves gathered in by cuffs trimmed with ribbon and lace. The bottom of the overall may be fin ished with a simple hem or with a nar row flounce of lace. The popularity of foulard remains un abated even into the "middle of the sea son. It is not only light and graceful, but it combines with other fabrics and trimmings to achieve notably fine ef fects. One very handsome model of foulard was made with a circular in stead of a box plaited skirt, a some what newer and more graceful effect. Three narrow flounces trimmed the lower part of the skirt. The bloused waist was furnished with a yoke, com posed of narrow tucks and bands of insertion, a collar of white cloth and lace framing the yoke. A silk bertha and a broad belt of foulard gave the finishing touches to the bodice. A very handsome summer dress for a young girl can be made of white silk batiste, one of the softest and prettiest of the summer fabrics. One of this sort I noticed the other afternoon at the entrance to the Palais de Luxembourg on a very smart damsel -who, while garbed in the accepted mode, did not strike me as Parisian and who, I after ward learned, was a famous American heiress. Her costume was of white silk batiste, made very simply', yet elegant ly, with lace and ribbon insertions. The use of striped fabrics continues unabated. At the races one notices many of the most striking gowns made of barred goods. Red and white striped silk, with a rich trimming of cluny lace. was one of the smartest of such effects recently worn by the Countess de Trevl dern, the great arbiter of fashion. The effect of the stripes was heightened by the novel use of black ribbons drawn through the lace. The high belt was of red silk and the white silk skirt was thickly trimmed with .fine gold braid trimming. The belts worn this season -are the extremes in width, either very wide or very narrow. The very wide ones are of the corselet shape and fit to the fig ure beautifully. Crepe de chine drawn through jeweled slldeaand having long sash ends behind is a favorite waist trimming. The latest fashion Is to have collar and belt to match. Even the tailor made gowns are showing the double sleeve. The jacket is made with a loose short sleeve of the cloth, through which the full puff ed sleeve of thfr blouse beneath shows with striking effect. Simplicity and beauty were combined in the dainty red and white foulard frock lately displayed on the shapely form of one of Redfern's models. The skirt was laid in narrow tucks, de scending on each side of the skirt from the hips, the bottom of the skirt being bordered with bands of lace, with nar row rows of black velvet ribbon above and below. The yoke and sleeves were entirely of tucks, the former partially hidden by a deep lace collar of a qual ity similar to that upon the skirt A shaped girdle at the waist was made of silk and bands of narrow ribbon velvet. No more do the modish dressmaking houses revel m striking contrasts; ev the coming winter evening and after noon reception frocks. One of the beau ties in silk was a handsome, embroider ed piece in mauve and green on a ground of white satin, The design was a curved spray that encircled a single five petaled flower. A second, suitable for evening cloaks, was of black satin brocaded with tiny flowers,' asters and marguerites alternating. A foulard silk exhibited quite a novel pattern in the shape of squares carelessly scattered all over the silk. This silk would be ex cellent in effect on the tucked skirts now worn. A superb brocade was of oyster white, with clusters of roses in mauve and green scattered loosely over the material. A very magnificent fab ric was the one of white panne satin, with embossed velvet and hand painted sprays upon its 'surface. An exquisite material for a matronly evening gown was the silk of black background with small white embroidered spots and slender, graceful sprays of spreading erything is restf ully harmonized. Even roses, with plenty of foliage. Outline - - . NOVELTIES IN SHIRT WAISTS. Nevec before have there been so many and such attractive styles in shirt waists as are evolved this season to please and clothe the feminine world. The old monotony in shirt waists has entirely disappeared, arid there is sim ply no limit to the variations In design and decoration. There is every con ceivable kind and condition, from a simple cotton shirt to the most elegant model in real lace. The list ineludea tailor made styles for golf, yachting, beach or mountain wear en suite with simply made skirts of shepherd's check, squadron serge cheviot, Scotch tweedj etc. Smarter models for afternoon uses are of dimity, India silk, peau de sole, tucked India mull with wide revers and sailor collar formed by finer lingerie tucks and insertions of swiss embroid ery. Demidress waists to wear with skirts of white costume cloth, veiling, gray and beige mohair, . eolienne or drap de chine are made variously ot plaited taffeta, peau de soie, liberty sat in and foulard silk. Lastly are the lovely creations for dress uses which are called shirt waists, but which are the most charm ing things that appear among the Im ported accessories of summer. Some oC them cost as much as complete cos tumes. Lustrous satins and silks are used In their composition, with lace bo lero fronts, silk embroideries, lace and ribbon insertions, crepe de chine or In dia silk scarfs and draperies, to say nothing of expensive buckles and but tons which complete some of the smart est French models. STUNNING FROCKS FOR SUMMER AFTERNOON WEAR. blouses and skirts are no longer cor rectly combined to form striking con trasts. String colored skirts are worn a great deal with blouses trimmed with lace harmonizing with this shade. Some of the new silks intended for winter gowns are being shown in a few exclusive shops. A peep at these gives excellent ideas of the charms of flowers in foulards and adaptations of geometrical designs seem to be most favored patterns for silks. Foulard is now one of the most popular materials in Paris, blue and red being the favored colors. The gowns are usually very simply made, generally princess style, with guipure trimmings and applica tions. CATHERINE TALBOT. Pretty Simmer Collar. The popularity of the silk waists as well as the regular shirt waists has brought out a vast array of neckwear. There were never so many pretty oddi ties and bewitching novelties for neck adornment as this summer.- There are shaped collars of thin crinoline, over which lace ties can be worn and which keep their shape for quite a time. Then there are the net and lace collars that are held in position by invisible wires. These are" shaped to be lower in rront than at the back, where they are gen erally finished in round or sharp points. Stock collars with a bow to match ara useful articles ot neckwear, for they) are so easily adjusted. . .The chiffon, crepe de chine' or Taea stock collars that have the. necktie in the shape of a sailor knot can also ba bought ready to wear and finished so there is no need of tying a knot every time the collar is put on. The lace Ja bots are also very pretty, and there 13 a wide selection of lace barbs. The lat ter come in both cream and white laca and are long enough to go around the neck twice, with the ends crossing at the back and tied in front in a bowknot. Tie of All Sorts. Crepe de chine and chiffon scarfs wltli fringed ends are worn as "twice around ties." They may be used without a separate stock by having a wired collar of firm white net, unlined. This sup ports the tie and prevents it from wrin kling. Handsome fastenings are used for these long scarfs in many cases, and really good lacepins of the old fashioned kind have emerged trium phantly from their long seclusion in the Jewel box. In simpler ties the but terfly bow of tulle or mousseline, edged with narrow lace or velvet ribbon, is popular. The "bat wing bow of silk is also liked. There are, too, stocks of tucked silk, the ends finished with tassels, Which are one of the newest offerings in the department of fashion able neckwear. I SUWieR FLOW6K J 1 SHOWS. F LOWERS have never been so pop ular in this country as now. Al most every owner of a small sub urban residence has a predilection for the raising of some particular plant, In the cultivation of which he fancies he excels. Every housewife has her fa vorite window or porch plants, to the promotion of whose growth she is de voted in hours of leisure. One cannot take a summer population anywhere and not find a majority of people de voted to amateur flower raising. It is our English cousins that have shown us how much pleasure may be derived from this pursuit. The English have a pleasant way of stimulating in terest in floriculture in rural neighbor hoods by a plan which at the same time yields a great deal of social amusement, and is very often a means of raising money for some charitable object. This is done by means of the flower show, and in America, where al most every method likely to lure the reluctant dollar from the public pocket has been tried, the flower show is well worth an experiment. In England the flower show is gen erally held In a public hall or in the schoolhouse, not far from the grounds of some country gentleman who is, as a rule, one of the officers of the local floriculture society, to which aU the gentry of the neighborhood belong The grounds of the aforementioned officer are, between the hours of 3 and 7 o'clock, thrown open to the public The host and hostess and several of the great ladies of the county are stationed near the house to receive their guests and about 4 o'clock refreshments are served in the house to a select and in vited few. For the villagers more sim ple viands are provided under the trees A band of music plays, and about 6 o'clock the prizes are distributed to those who have won the awards at the flower show. In America the form of the English flower show would need to be consid erably modified.. If for the purpose of raising money for a church or hospital or school fund or for the benefit of Uncle Sam's soldiers or sailors, it might be held altogether on a lawn, long ta bles under an open tent being used for the accommodation of the flowers. A fee is charged for admission, this being the source from which most of the profit is derived. When the show is for the benefit of a church or public institution, it is quite easy to induce prominent merchants to donate prizes to be distributed to the owners of fine plants or flowers. . As interest in the show, will depend upon the beauty of the display of flow ers, all the leading florists and flower growers of the neighborhood should be asked to send specimens in competi tion for prizes. The enterprising florist who is always on the lookout for a means of advertising the excellence of his goods will be glad to send plants and specimens under the care of one of his employees, who will be responsible for their condition while they are ab sent from the shop or greenhouse. The assistance of the florists and nursery men in advising how the prize 'list ought to be arranged should be sought. Separate prizes should be given to pro fessionals and amateurs. Prizes should be offered for the best home grown flowers of different kinds, and an ex- round man, if the grounds are large, might have a portion of the lawn for his machine. Flower sellers, with small boutonnieres, will be able to profitably sell their wares at such an affair. As many people will be modest about competing for a prize, they should be urged to send their flowers in order to the trees. Part songs, serenades and mandolin and guitar music sound well on such occasions. If the flower show has been planned some time in advance, the chances of Its success are always better. The con ditions under which the prizes are giv en should be that the flower has been In some localities, where many per sons are interested in the growth of a particular flower, a chrysanthemum, orchid, rose or peony show may be held at the season when these flowers are at their best. Of course, other flowers may also be exhibited. In the summer it is so hard to find hibit grown especially by children would be interesting. Many of . these who have sent flowers will donate them to the charitable object for which the show is given, and they may be then sold to visitors. Music should be fur nished by a band or a string orchestra, and in the evening the grounds and the tent where the flowers are exhibited are lighted by Japanese lanterns. Lemon ade and refreshments may be served lor a nominal sum, and the merry go PRETTY ARRANGEMENT AT A FLOWER FETE, add to the beauty of the exhibit. If the show Is given for a good cause, not many will refuse this plea. In the even ing a programme of vocal and instru mental music may be presented under planted by the exhibitor or has been in his or her possession a long enough time to show the effect of good care; The show may be given indoors, but it is thus scarcely ever so attractive. any way of raising money for charita ble enterprises, save by the old fash ioned lawn or garden party, that the flower show presents itself as a novel and interesting form of entertainment for this season. AMY SCHUYLER, When a skirt is old and limp, a simple expedient will give it a new lease of life. Brush the material well and remove any spots. Sponge the, lining with hot water, starch and iron it. The result will prove most satisfactory. HINTS FOR THE TOILET, Try the effect of adding sea salt to your warm bath at night. It will re fresh you wonderfully and help you to sleep well. Let the hair be loose at night, for pin ning or plaiting ' it up tightly, by re tarding the circulation of the blood, is apt to injuriously affect the growth of the hair. Perfumed gloves -are liked by some women. Mix together four drops of ex tract of ambergris and two ounces of spirits of wine. Apply to the inside of the gloves with a linen rag or piece of sponge. A harmless rouge is found in the juice of the beet root. The practice of arti ficially coloring the cheeks is not to be recommended, but if people will rouge beet root has the advantage of being simple and safe. After taking medicines brush the teeth. After taking quinine or iron in any form it is well to use a little car bonate of soda as a dentifrice. This precaution will prevent the teeth being stained or their enamel injured by the acid used to dissolve the drug. A useful lotion for the complexion when the face flushes uncomfortably is made of simple tincture of benzoin, one dram; tincture of hamamells, four drams; rosewater, one and a half ounces. Apply to the face night and morning and before going out. Wind and sun burned faces are often very painful. Ease is best secured by protecting the skin from the air. This may be done by an application of white of egg, lard or of Carron oil. The last remedy should be found in every house, it being invaluable for burns and scalds. It is made of equal parts of linseed oil and limewater, shaken to gether so as to form a cream. Braised lies; of Lamb. Put a small leg of lamb into a sauce pan containing two ounces of melted dripping and let it cook over a quick fire for eight minutes; turn the meat and brown it evenly on the other side. Then pour in sufficient weak stock or water to partly cover it and aad two onions, sliced, a turnip and a carrot cut up, a sprig of fresh mint, a bunch of parsley and a little muslin bag con taining a dozen peppercorns, a blade of mace and two cloves. Cover the pan and let the meat sim mer for three hours, if possible, in a moderately hot oven. It should be basted frequently and turned after jthe first hour and a half. When done, re move the meat from the pan and keep it hot; pour oft as much of the fat as possible from the liquor in which it was cooked, then thicken it with corn flour which has been smoothly mixed with a small quantity of cold water, and, after coloring the sauce a rich brown and seasoning it with salt, strain it over the meat and garnish the dish with green peas which have been cooked separately. BREAKFAST. , Fruit. Egg Toast. Curried Kidneys, Saratoga Potatoes. Parker House Rolls. Preserves. Coffee. ' CURRIED KIDNEYS. Make a good curry sauce. Cut the kidneys into dice and stew then) in the sauce for two hours. Serve with- nice rice boiled in fast boiling water for 14 minutes. LUNCHEON OR TEA. Fruit. Crescent Rolls. Creamed Lobster. Creamed Potatoes. Egg and Lettuce Salad. . Whipped Syllabubs. Tea or Cocoa, WHIPPED SYLLABUBS. Take half pint ol thick cream, juice and rind of quarter of a lemon, three whites of eggs, powdered sugar -to taste and, if liked, one tablespoonful of brandy. Mix the brandy, lemon juice and rind together with; the cream. Sweeten to taste. Whisk the white of the eggs; add lightly to the cream. Whisk well (probably half an hour), taking off the froth as it rises and laying it on a hair sieve to drain. When all the froth has risen, have ready soma custard glasses or cups filled about quarter iull with any wine or well Savored custard. Fill U0 the glass with (roth and serve. - , DINNER. " Fruit. Lobster Soup. j Escaloped Tomatoes. Celery. Stewed Corn. Crab Salad. Boast Mutton. Baked Potatoes, Lemon Pudding and Sauce. -Coffee. LEMON PUDDING AND SAUCE. Take lem on, six ounces of bread crumbs, two ounces ol flour, four of beef suet, a teaspoonful of baking; powder, two of citron peel, three eggs, two ta blespoonfuls of castor sugar. Chop the suet fine ly; mix it with the flour, bread crumbs, baking powder and sugar; add the chopped citron peel, the grated rind and the juice of a lemon. Beat up the eggs with a gill of milk and moisten the pudding with them. Boil for three houra in ft well buttered pudding mold. For the sauce grate the rind of a lemon; put it with the juice and two tablespoonfuls of fine sugar in a Bmall enam eled saucepan. Mix half a teaspoonful of corn flour with a gill of water, add to the lemon, boil up and serve with the pudding. Washing Decanters, To prevent wine stains from marking the inside of decanters fill the bottled directly they are drained of wine withi warm water and shake them briskly. If the dregs are allowed to remain any length of time, it will be more difficult to clear the glass. Obstinate stains in glass bottles, whether due to wine or anything else, need something mora than water to remove them. Shot ia sometimes used, but this is too heavsi for very fine glass, which is better treated with crushed eggshell or pellets of brown paper. Whatever is used must be shaken up and down inside the bottle of water, and the friction will emove the stains.