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The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, August 04, 1900, LAST EDITION, Editorial Section, Image 14

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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, AUGUST 4, 1900.
PARIS FASHION LETTER.
5
3
PARIS, July 21. Parisian women do
not take to the new Ladysmith
hat. . A few English women who
are here appear in them, but for the
French type of face they are utterly
impossible. A fresh faced young girl
or a handsome woman of the most un
deniable chic may dare one without dis
advantage to her appearance, but then
these tvnes could wear anything. The
utilitv of the hat is not to be gainsaid
no hat put upon' the market In recent
years is so serviceable for outdoor
wear, for it may be turned down in the
front to shade the face and in the back
to shade the neck, if so desired. The
hats are made of coarse straw, which
allows the air to circulate freely over
the head. They are so inexpensive,
with their simple trimming, consisting
of a scarf of silk or muslin, that th&
Ladysmith hats, if they were more or
namental, might hope to supplant the
sailor hats, which have seen such long
and hard service that most women are
a little tired of them.
The draped neckbands worn so much
this season are often lightened by a
foundation of wire, which makes them
cooler to the wearer than they appear
to the uninitiated looker on. The lined
neckbands trimmed with lace or net
and having a sailor tie in front are
very much worn, but on warm days
they are far from comfortable. The ac
cepted cut for high stocks is with
points under the ears. They may be
worn with a bow in front, in the back
or at the sides.
Never have summer gowns of washa
ble materials been daintier and prettier
than ' "this - season. Gowns of dimity
made with lace trimmed frills are crea
tions considered worthy the closest at
tention of the kings of the dressmaking
craft. Little sprays of flowers are
sprinkled over the surfaces of. corded or
dotted dimities, some of the cords being
of the delicate shades of the flowers and
charmingly decorative. Many new wov
en white materials are being prepared,
and there is a quite apparent effort on
the part of manufacturers to hit upon
something which will succeed to the
popularity of duck. Butchers' linen in
various colors and degrees of fineness
Is being made into gowns, while piques,
sateens, Bengal silks and surah poplins
afford admirable effects.
It Is so difficult to obtain anything
really new and picturesque for the lit
tle folks that I cannot refrain from
mentioning a little white pique pelisse
now being sent home from one of the
shops on the Rue de la Faix for one of
the little continental royalties. The
garment is made with box plaits on a
loose sack shaped foundation of the
pique, which is divided by bands of
muslin embroidered insertion. With
this is to be worn a very large collar
of pique and insertion. Older children
wear very pretty frocks of book mus
lin, with a deep frill of Valenciennes
lace at the hem. insertions above and a
yoke of muslin and insertion to match.
A white muslin overall for a little
girl, with front and back yokes decorat
ed with rows of narrow frilled ribbon,
makes a useful garment to wear over
a tinted muslin slip or a woolen or silk
frock on cold days when muslin robes
are out of the question. About the
round yokes a frill of soft lace should
be sewed, and the. sleeves gathered in
by cuffs trimmed with ribbon and lace.
The bottom of the overall may be fin
ished with a simple hem or with a nar
row flounce of lace.
The popularity of foulard remains un
abated even into the "middle of the sea
son. It is not only light and graceful,
but it combines with other fabrics and
trimmings to achieve notably fine ef
fects. One very handsome model of
foulard was made with a circular in
stead of a box plaited skirt, a some
what newer and more graceful effect.
Three narrow flounces trimmed the
lower part of the skirt. The bloused
waist was furnished with a yoke, com
posed of narrow tucks and bands of
insertion, a collar of white cloth and
lace framing the yoke. A silk bertha
and a broad belt of foulard gave the
finishing touches to the bodice.
A very handsome summer dress for a
young girl can be made of white silk
batiste, one of the softest and prettiest
of the summer fabrics. One of this
sort I noticed the other afternoon at the
entrance to the Palais de Luxembourg
on a very smart damsel -who, while
garbed in the accepted mode, did not
strike me as Parisian and who, I after
ward learned, was a famous American
heiress. Her costume was of white silk
batiste, made very simply', yet elegant
ly, with lace and ribbon insertions.
The use of striped fabrics continues
unabated. At the races one notices
many of the most striking gowns made
of barred goods. Red and white striped
silk, with a rich trimming of cluny lace.
was one of the smartest of such effects
recently worn by the Countess de Trevl
dern, the great arbiter of fashion. The
effect of the stripes was heightened by
the novel use of black ribbons drawn
through the lace. The high belt was
of red silk and the white silk skirt was
thickly trimmed with .fine gold braid
trimming.
The belts worn this season -are the
extremes in width, either very wide or
very narrow. The very wide ones are
of the corselet shape and fit to the fig
ure beautifully. Crepe de chine drawn
through jeweled slldeaand having long
sash ends behind is a favorite waist
trimming. The latest fashion Is to have
collar and belt to match.
Even the tailor made gowns are
showing the double sleeve. The jacket
is made with a loose short sleeve of
the cloth, through which the full puff
ed sleeve of thfr blouse beneath shows
with striking effect.
Simplicity and beauty were combined
in the dainty red and white foulard
frock lately displayed on the shapely
form of one of Redfern's models. The
skirt was laid in narrow tucks, de
scending on each side of the skirt from
the hips, the bottom of the skirt being
bordered with bands of lace, with nar
row rows of black velvet ribbon above
and below. The yoke and sleeves were
entirely of tucks, the former partially
hidden by a deep lace collar of a qual
ity similar to that upon the skirt A
shaped girdle at the waist was made of
silk and bands of narrow ribbon velvet.
No more do the modish dressmaking
houses revel m striking contrasts; ev
the coming winter evening and after
noon reception frocks. One of the beau
ties in silk was a handsome, embroider
ed piece in mauve and green on a
ground of white satin, The design was
a curved spray that encircled a single
five petaled flower. A second, suitable
for evening cloaks, was of black satin
brocaded with tiny flowers,' asters and
marguerites alternating. A foulard silk
exhibited quite a novel pattern in the
shape of squares carelessly scattered all
over the silk. This silk would be ex
cellent in effect on the tucked skirts
now worn. A superb brocade was of
oyster white, with clusters of roses in
mauve and green scattered loosely over
the material. A very magnificent fab
ric was the one of white panne satin,
with embossed velvet and hand painted
sprays upon its 'surface. An exquisite
material for a matronly evening gown
was the silk of black background with
small white embroidered spots and
slender, graceful sprays of spreading
erything is restf ully harmonized. Even roses, with plenty of foliage. Outline
- - .
NOVELTIES IN SHIRT WAISTS.
Nevec before have there been so many
and such attractive styles in shirt
waists as are evolved this season to
please and clothe the feminine world.
The old monotony in shirt waists has
entirely disappeared, arid there is sim
ply no limit to the variations In design
and decoration. There is every con
ceivable kind and condition, from a
simple cotton shirt to the most elegant
model in real lace. The list ineludea
tailor made styles for golf, yachting,
beach or mountain wear en suite with
simply made skirts of shepherd's check,
squadron serge cheviot, Scotch tweedj
etc.
Smarter models for afternoon uses
are of dimity, India silk, peau de sole,
tucked India mull with wide revers and
sailor collar formed by finer lingerie
tucks and insertions of swiss embroid
ery. Demidress waists to wear with
skirts of white costume cloth, veiling,
gray and beige mohair, . eolienne or
drap de chine are made variously ot
plaited taffeta, peau de soie, liberty sat
in and foulard silk.
Lastly are the lovely creations for
dress uses which are called shirt
waists, but which are the most charm
ing things that appear among the Im
ported accessories of summer. Some oC
them cost as much as complete cos
tumes. Lustrous satins and silks are
used In their composition, with lace bo
lero fronts, silk embroideries, lace and
ribbon insertions, crepe de chine or In
dia silk scarfs and draperies, to say
nothing of expensive buckles and but
tons which complete some of the smart
est French models.
STUNNING FROCKS FOR SUMMER AFTERNOON WEAR.
blouses and skirts are no longer cor
rectly combined to form striking con
trasts. String colored skirts are worn
a great deal with blouses trimmed with
lace harmonizing with this shade.
Some of the new silks intended for
winter gowns are being shown in a
few exclusive shops. A peep at these
gives excellent ideas of the charms of
flowers in foulards and adaptations of
geometrical designs seem to be most
favored patterns for silks. Foulard is
now one of the most popular materials
in Paris, blue and red being the favored
colors. The gowns are usually very
simply made, generally princess style,
with guipure trimmings and applica
tions. CATHERINE TALBOT.
Pretty Simmer Collar.
The popularity of the silk waists as
well as the regular shirt waists has
brought out a vast array of neckwear.
There were never so many pretty oddi
ties and bewitching novelties for neck
adornment as this summer.- There are
shaped collars of thin crinoline, over
which lace ties can be worn and which
keep their shape for quite a time. Then
there are the net and lace collars that
are held in position by invisible wires.
These are" shaped to be lower in rront
than at the back, where they are gen
erally finished in round or sharp points.
Stock collars with a bow to match ara
useful articles ot neckwear, for they)
are so easily adjusted. .
.The chiffon, crepe de chine' or Taea
stock collars that have the. necktie in
the shape of a sailor knot can also ba
bought ready to wear and finished so
there is no need of tying a knot every
time the collar is put on. The lace Ja
bots are also very pretty, and there 13
a wide selection of lace barbs. The lat
ter come in both cream and white laca
and are long enough to go around the
neck twice, with the ends crossing at
the back and tied in front in a bowknot.
Tie of All Sorts.
Crepe de chine and chiffon scarfs wltli
fringed ends are worn as "twice around
ties." They may be used without a
separate stock by having a wired collar
of firm white net, unlined. This sup
ports the tie and prevents it from wrin
kling. Handsome fastenings are used
for these long scarfs in many cases,
and really good lacepins of the old
fashioned kind have emerged trium
phantly from their long seclusion in
the Jewel box. In simpler ties the but
terfly bow of tulle or mousseline, edged
with narrow lace or velvet ribbon, is
popular. The "bat wing bow of silk is
also liked. There are, too, stocks of
tucked silk, the ends finished with
tassels, Which are one of the newest
offerings in the department of fashion
able neckwear.
I SUWieR FLOW6K J 1
SHOWS.
F LOWERS have never been so pop
ular in this country as now. Al
most every owner of a small sub
urban residence has a predilection for
the raising of some particular plant,
In the cultivation of which he fancies
he excels. Every housewife has her fa
vorite window or porch plants, to the
promotion of whose growth she is de
voted in hours of leisure. One cannot
take a summer population anywhere
and not find a majority of people de
voted to amateur flower raising.
It is our English cousins that have
shown us how much pleasure may be
derived from this pursuit. The English
have a pleasant way of stimulating in
terest in floriculture in rural neighbor
hoods by a plan which at the same
time yields a great deal of social
amusement, and is very often a means
of raising money for some charitable
object. This is done by means of the
flower show, and in America, where al
most every method likely to lure the
reluctant dollar from the public pocket
has been tried, the flower show is well
worth an experiment.
In England the flower show is gen
erally held In a public hall or in the
schoolhouse, not far from the grounds
of some country gentleman who is, as
a rule, one of the officers of the local
floriculture society, to which aU the
gentry of the neighborhood belong The
grounds of the aforementioned officer
are, between the hours of 3 and 7
o'clock, thrown open to the public The
host and hostess and several of the
great ladies of the county are stationed
near the house to receive their guests
and about 4 o'clock refreshments are
served in the house to a select and in
vited few. For the villagers more sim
ple viands are provided under the trees
A band of music plays, and about 6
o'clock the prizes are distributed to
those who have won the awards at the
flower show.
In America the form of the English
flower show would need to be consid
erably modified.. If for the purpose of
raising money for a church or hospital
or school fund or for the benefit of
Uncle Sam's soldiers or sailors, it might
be held altogether on a lawn, long ta
bles under an open tent being used for
the accommodation of the flowers. A
fee is charged for admission, this being
the source from which most of the
profit is derived. When the show is
for the benefit of a church or public
institution, it is quite easy to induce
prominent merchants to donate prizes
to be distributed to the owners of fine
plants or flowers.
. As interest in the show, will depend
upon the beauty of the display of flow
ers, all the leading florists and flower
growers of the neighborhood should be
asked to send specimens in competi
tion for prizes. The enterprising florist
who is always on the lookout for a
means of advertising the excellence of
his goods will be glad to send plants
and specimens under the care of one of
his employees, who will be responsible
for their condition while they are ab
sent from the shop or greenhouse. The
assistance of the florists and nursery
men in advising how the prize 'list
ought to be arranged should be sought.
Separate prizes should be given to pro
fessionals and amateurs. Prizes should
be offered for the best home grown
flowers of different kinds, and an ex-
round man, if the grounds are large,
might have a portion of the lawn for
his machine. Flower sellers, with small
boutonnieres, will be able to profitably
sell their wares at such an affair.
As many people will be modest about
competing for a prize, they should be
urged to send their flowers in order to
the trees. Part songs, serenades and
mandolin and guitar music sound well
on such occasions.
If the flower show has been planned
some time in advance, the chances of
Its success are always better. The con
ditions under which the prizes are giv
en should be that the flower has been
In some localities, where many per
sons are interested in the growth of a
particular flower, a chrysanthemum,
orchid, rose or peony show may be held
at the season when these flowers are at
their best. Of course, other flowers
may also be exhibited.
In the summer it is so hard to find
hibit grown especially by children would
be interesting. Many of . these who
have sent flowers will donate them to
the charitable object for which the
show is given, and they may be then
sold to visitors. Music should be fur
nished by a band or a string orchestra,
and in the evening the grounds and the
tent where the flowers are exhibited are
lighted by Japanese lanterns. Lemon
ade and refreshments may be served
lor a nominal sum, and the merry go
PRETTY ARRANGEMENT AT A FLOWER FETE,
add to the beauty of the exhibit. If the
show Is given for a good cause, not
many will refuse this plea. In the even
ing a programme of vocal and instru
mental music may be presented under
planted by the exhibitor or has been in
his or her possession a long enough
time to show the effect of good care;
The show may be given indoors, but
it is thus scarcely ever so attractive.
any way of raising money for charita
ble enterprises, save by the old fash
ioned lawn or garden party, that the
flower show presents itself as a novel
and interesting form of entertainment
for this season. AMY SCHUYLER,
When a skirt is old and limp, a simple
expedient will give it a new lease of
life. Brush the material well and remove
any spots. Sponge the, lining with hot
water, starch and iron it. The result
will prove most satisfactory.
HINTS FOR THE TOILET,
Try the effect of adding sea salt to
your warm bath at night. It will re
fresh you wonderfully and help you to
sleep well.
Let the hair be loose at night, for pin
ning or plaiting ' it up tightly, by re
tarding the circulation of the blood, is
apt to injuriously affect the growth of
the hair.
Perfumed gloves -are liked by some
women. Mix together four drops of ex
tract of ambergris and two ounces of
spirits of wine. Apply to the inside of
the gloves with a linen rag or piece of
sponge.
A harmless rouge is found in the juice
of the beet root. The practice of arti
ficially coloring the cheeks is not to be
recommended, but if people will rouge
beet root has the advantage of being
simple and safe.
After taking medicines brush the
teeth. After taking quinine or iron in
any form it is well to use a little car
bonate of soda as a dentifrice. This
precaution will prevent the teeth being
stained or their enamel injured by the
acid used to dissolve the drug.
A useful lotion for the complexion
when the face flushes uncomfortably is
made of simple tincture of benzoin, one
dram; tincture of hamamells, four
drams; rosewater, one and a half
ounces. Apply to the face night and
morning and before going out.
Wind and sun burned faces are often
very painful. Ease is best secured by
protecting the skin from the air. This
may be done by an application of white
of egg, lard or of Carron oil. The last
remedy should be found in every house,
it being invaluable for burns and
scalds. It is made of equal parts of
linseed oil and limewater, shaken to
gether so as to form a cream.
Braised lies; of Lamb.
Put a small leg of lamb into a sauce
pan containing two ounces of melted
dripping and let it cook over a quick
fire for eight minutes; turn the meat
and brown it evenly on the other side.
Then pour in sufficient weak stock or
water to partly cover it and aad two
onions, sliced, a turnip and a carrot
cut up, a sprig of fresh mint, a bunch
of parsley and a little muslin bag con
taining a dozen peppercorns, a blade of
mace and two cloves.
Cover the pan and let the meat sim
mer for three hours, if possible, in a
moderately hot oven. It should be
basted frequently and turned after jthe
first hour and a half. When done, re
move the meat from the pan and keep
it hot; pour oft as much of the fat as
possible from the liquor in which it was
cooked, then thicken it with corn flour
which has been smoothly mixed with a
small quantity of cold water, and, after
coloring the sauce a rich brown and
seasoning it with salt, strain it over the
meat and garnish the dish with green
peas which have been cooked separately.
BREAKFAST.
, Fruit.
Egg Toast. Curried Kidneys,
Saratoga Potatoes.
Parker House Rolls.
Preserves. Coffee. '
CURRIED KIDNEYS. Make a good curry
sauce. Cut the kidneys into dice and stew then)
in the sauce for two hours. Serve with- nice rice
boiled in fast boiling water for 14 minutes.
LUNCHEON OR TEA.
Fruit.
Crescent Rolls. Creamed Lobster.
Creamed Potatoes. Egg and Lettuce Salad.
. Whipped Syllabubs.
Tea or Cocoa,
WHIPPED SYLLABUBS. Take half pint ol
thick cream, juice and rind of quarter of a lemon,
three whites of eggs, powdered sugar -to taste
and, if liked, one tablespoonful of brandy. Mix
the brandy, lemon juice and rind together with;
the cream. Sweeten to taste. Whisk the white
of the eggs; add lightly to the cream. Whisk
well (probably half an hour), taking off the froth
as it rises and laying it on a hair sieve to drain.
When all the froth has risen, have ready soma
custard glasses or cups filled about quarter iull
with any wine or well Savored custard. Fill U0
the glass with (roth and serve. - ,
DINNER.
" Fruit.
Lobster Soup.
j Escaloped Tomatoes. Celery.
Stewed Corn. Crab Salad.
Boast Mutton. Baked Potatoes,
Lemon Pudding and Sauce.
-Coffee.
LEMON PUDDING AND SAUCE. Take lem
on, six ounces of bread crumbs, two ounces ol
flour, four of beef suet, a teaspoonful of baking;
powder, two of citron peel, three eggs, two ta
blespoonfuls of castor sugar. Chop the suet fine
ly; mix it with the flour, bread crumbs, baking
powder and sugar; add the chopped citron peel,
the grated rind and the juice of a lemon. Beat
up the eggs with a gill of milk and moisten the
pudding with them. Boil for three houra in ft
well buttered pudding mold. For the sauce grate
the rind of a lemon; put it with the juice and
two tablespoonfuls of fine sugar in a Bmall enam
eled saucepan. Mix half a teaspoonful of corn
flour with a gill of water, add to the lemon, boil
up and serve with the pudding.
Washing Decanters,
To prevent wine stains from marking
the inside of decanters fill the bottled
directly they are drained of wine withi
warm water and shake them briskly.
If the dregs are allowed to remain any
length of time, it will be more difficult
to clear the glass. Obstinate stains in
glass bottles, whether due to wine or
anything else, need something mora
than water to remove them. Shot ia
sometimes used, but this is too heavsi
for very fine glass, which is better
treated with crushed eggshell or pellets
of brown paper. Whatever is used
must be shaken up and down inside the
bottle of water, and the friction will
emove the stains.

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