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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, AUGUST 11, 1900.
LA TE PARIS FASHIONS PARIS, July 2S. The middle of sum mer brings many suggestions of new patterns and the new fabrics which are to make beautiful the au tumn wardrobe of the lady of fashion. These are not a bit behindhand this year, for many visitors to the exposi tion, anxious to take home with them a Parisian wardrobe, are besieging the shops with orders for gowns a little in advance of the. fashions. Most of the strangers have been amazed at the moderate prices asked for gowns even in the most, famous shops. Sixty dol lars buys a handsome frock, one which the importer, depending on the name of the maker for it3 prestige, would sell in America for at least $250. The most obvious modifications of the gowns of. the year are in the sleeves. These are many of them exact copies of sleeves seen in famous pictures. The Elizabethan sleeve, consisting of a series of puffs, which are effected by the use of encircling ribbon, braid or velvet bands, is one of the most strik ing and popular. The empire, with its tight fitting lace undersleeve and point ed oversleeve, reaching half way the length of the forearm, is also decidedly pretty. The Marie Antoinette is made with a trimmed upper part, the lower part of the forearm being covered by a series of puffs divided by insertions of lace. The Garibaldi sleeve has a flare toward the wrist and is supplied with a very much puffed undersleeve and is the least striking of all. The direc toire sleeve is rather loose, furnished with a flaring trimmed cuff, from which hangs a deep flounce of fine lace. The Elizabethan sleeve is best adapted to thin, soft fabrics; the Garibaldi for dressy outdoor costumes, the Antoi nette for dinner gowns of the severe high necked sort and the directoire for fanciful outdoor gowns! The fabrics for fall will include broadcloth, of course. What season has been without broadcloth in some form or other? Black is likely to remain a favorite cclor for some time to come, so that a gown of black broadcloth is a safe investment. Light colors are to be worn a great deal, and blues will continue in the favor they have enjoyed during the summer. The day of pastel shades is nearly over; one sees very few among the new gowns on the streets or In the shops. Venetian cloth, which "is first cousin to broad cloth, is to be still worn, while satin victoria cloth and its kindred will have some representatives in the modish gowns of the season. The novelties are a two hued camel's hair cloth and combinations of cloth and velvet. Pop lins,; bearing, as they do, the stamp of the pnglish queen's approval, will have a large vogue in England and America. Faquin has made some very handsome models of that cloth which show its possibilities in the hands of a capable designer. Fabrics of mixed silk and wool will be valuable in the achieving of chic afternoon and dinner toilets of the demidress sort. Trimmings will likely undergo many modifications before the final standard is attained. One novelty at least will b3 t)ie use of designs of stamped velvet to trim the edges of skirts. On the vel vet other patterns of cloth the same color as the dress will be used. Self brimming will be very much favored, . tucks and adaptations of the dress ma- fr POOLING ICES FOR HOT THERE are few households in which an ice cream freezer is not to be found. The cheapness of the uterf makes it possible to have homemade ices, sherbets and creams superior in quality to any to be purchased in the ordinary shops. There are churns now upon the market that will freeze the mixtures in a few minutes, so that the ices may be made just a short time be fore serving and be perfectly fresh and solid when placed upon the table. The best one for satisfactory results has a eide wheel which accomplishes an even congealing- of the cream. The ice packed about the can should be mixed with rock salt in the propor tion of a little less than three-quarters of ice to one-quarter of salt. The ice must be pounded into small pieces. The best way to do this is to put the lump into an old sack or bag and pound it with some blunt headed instrument, like a wooden mallet or the head of an ex or hatchet. The ice will in this way be retained in the bag, the pieces mot flying all over the room. When the cream has been placed In the can, after examination to see that the handle and beater work all right, the ' ice and salt should be packed around the outside of the receptacle. It should be arranged: first, a layer of ice placed next to the can, then a layer cf salt, and so on until the pail is filled. When all this has been done, turn the handle slowly and evenly until the cream tis so stiff that you can turn it no longer; ordinarily, it takes 15 minutes to freeze the cream. Then take off the handle, wipe off the lid of the can, so that no salt water may drop in when it is removed, lift the lid and remove the beater. Press the ice cream down with a spoon (a wooden one is best) and put on the lid again, corking up the opening through which the handle passed, and cover the lid with a flannel cloth. Fill the freezer with more rough ice and put it in a cool place un til it is time to serve the cream. It should be remembered that liquids expand in freezing, so that the mixture placed in the can should always be less than it will hold. The quantity of sug ar used in making ice cream is an im portant consideration, for too much will retard the freezing and too little Will make the ice cream too bard. It should be remembered that the finer the ice is crushed the more quick ly will it melt and the cream be frozen. The more rapidly the mixture is stir red the more quickly will it be frozen, for the rapidity of the revolutions ex poses the mixture in all parts more thoroughly to the cold. For freezing, about 20 veuads of lea terial now being much used on the preliminary models. The use of lace is not likely to be suspended; ve'nise, point, cluny, luxeuil and Valenciennes are favored at the moment and show no abatement in popularity, which argues their cor uance into the fall season. One of the luxurious fads of the 1 has been flower sunshades. Cer extravagant dames have even appe with those of natural flowers, tre with a preparation that prolongs 1 freshness for an hour or two. Artil flowers are made to look so lifelike they are almost undetectable, and n such sunshades have charmed the at the races and in the Bois du logne on fine afternoons. Instea sunshades covered with flowers, fin' fects are often achieved with garli of natural flowers draped over parasols covered with siik or Chi The Louis Quinze parasols, with 1 very long handles of costly wood precious chinas, are quite as quaint elegant as even a court dame of old regime would have aspired to sess. The use of pompadour ribbons hour tain ared ated :heir icial that lany eye of e Br ands thin ffon. Lheir s or and the pos- for DESSERTS WEATHER are needed for a gallon freezer. Some persons imagine that the melted ice should be drawn off as soon as it is re duced to water. This is a mistake, for the latent cold remaining in the water helps freeze the cream. In order that none of the water may run into the can there should be an outlet a short distance below the lid. Draw off the water when it floats the ice. It is a good plan not to try to freeze the cream too rapidly. When slowly frozen, the grain is better. For the best creams the liquid is scalded and the sugar dissolved in it while hot. Raw cream frozen tastes too much like snow. In measuring the ice and salt to pack into the freezer a good plan Is to use a shallow dish or pan, putting in a layer of ice three Inches thick and then a layer of salt one inch thick and pack the mixture close with a wooden spoon. After the cream is made it is better to allow it to stand for an hour or two. This will cause the flavor to blend per fectly with the cream. When it is to be served, dip the can quickly in cold water, wipe and invert over a large dish, and the cream will slip out neatly. If the cream is to be served in forms, fill the molds with the cream, taking care to press down with a spoon, so that every part may be filled. Place a piece of white paper around the edge and put on the lid. Cover the point with a strip of muslin dipped in melted butter and pack the molds in salt and ice until they are needed. When the ice cream freezer is put away, it should be cleaned and the can scalded and dried and left with the lid off until it is to be used again. In the winter months snow may be substitut ed for ice. A substitute for a patent freezer may be made of a deep, covered can or pail and a wooden pail or firkin. The cream must be scraped from the sides of the can now and then and be beaten every little while with a wooden spoon. A longer time is required for freezing water ices than ice cream. The crank should be turned for a few minutes and then stopped for a few minutes. When the handle will no longer turn, remove it, take out the beater and scrape the mixture from the elides of the can and beat with a large wooden spoon. In making a sherbet freeze quickly until the mixture is almost hard. Then take out the beater and miac with the contents the white of one egg beaten to a froth with a tablespoonful of pow dered sugar and beat until all is stiff. Stir the sherbet into the frozen mix ture and allow it te stand for an kour sashes Is a successful touch to most white gowns of the hour. Pompadour medallions covered with painted flow ers on white silk suggest that the se ries of revivals will be further illu minated by one suggestive of the fash- HANDSOME LATE SUMMER ions of La Belle Pompadour. The Ma rie Antoinette touches and those bor rowed from the toilets of the reign of the various Louis of France have made the season, while a singularly artistic one, very much of a potpourri. One notices a good deal of gold thread used to outline embroideries on or so. In removing an Ice from a mold in case it should stick dip it into cold water, never in warm water, or the shape will be spoiled. Here are several recipes for making creams: Vanilla Ice Cream. Take one quart of milk, one pint of cream, four eggs, two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, one pound of powdered sugar, vanilla es sence. Stir the cornstarch very smoothly with a little of the scalded milk in which is the dissolved sugar; beat the yolks of the eggs. Boil the rest of the milk, pour it over the corn starch; then stir in the beaten yolks of eggs and add a pinch of salt. Stir this mixture over the fire until it is slightly thick and clings to the spoon; then allow it to cool. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, mix them with the custard and flavor with vanilla es sence to taste. To make lemon water ice take eight lemons, 12 ounces of loaf sugar, four eggs, whites only. Put into an enamel ed saucepan the thinly pared rinds of three lemons, the sugar and one quart of cold water. Simmer for ten min utes. Squeeze and strain the Juice of eight lemons, add it to the sirup, which must also be strained from the peeL When cool, beat up the whites cf the handsome parasols and frocks. It promises to be a large factor in the trimming of the winter evening gowns. A costume of string colored laee over white tulle was brightened by the use of outlinings in gold thread, with the effect of rich, yet simple, appearance. Buttons are probably for some time to form a very important part in the trim ming of elegant gowns of cloth. The jeweled buttons, although costly' and beautiful, are not to be compared in desirability to a few of the beautifully painted antiques which only those who have in their strong boxes ancestral gowns or the means to purchase them GOWNS AND BODICES. at an exalted figure can hope to flaunt in the face of poor and pedigreeless votaries of fashion. The tendency even for outdoor dress es is to cut the neck rather low.. A yoke of lace comes up about the neck, and the bareness of the throat is re lieved by a chapeau scarf of tulle or eggs and stir t.iem in. Pour Into- the ice pail and freeze. Orange water ice may beiUiad by taking seven oranges, one lemon, ten ounces of loaf sugar, four eggs, whites only. Grate the oranges and lemon, with the lumps of sugar until most of the yellow part is removed. Simmer the sugar with a quart of cold water five minutes. When cool, add the strained Juices of the oranges and lem on and the whites of eggs beaten to a froth. Freeze according to direction's given with the particular machine used. Whites of eggs give more body to wa ter ices, but may always be omitted if desired. To make raspberry or any other fruit tX-, PACK THE MIXTURE OF - 17 ""iTl ; " lis-y rr ICE AND SALT CLOSE 1 4 U U A 1 fPpT V J , I chifFon holding the hat in position. One such costume of the standard summer fabric for afternoon wear foulard silk was charming in the extreme. Inser tions and applications of silk lace trim med the gown, a scroll-like border of applications of geranium red silk trim ming the skirt half way to the knees. The bloused bodice boasted a scarf of the geranium silk bordered with lace, while a long scarf of white chiffon trimmed with a deep band of lace was suspended from one side of the neck and was caught at the waist with a chou of the same material. The belt was a pointed one of silk, while the sleeves fitted quite close to the arms and were trimmed below with a fanciful design worked out In applications of silk and lace. ." The use of batiste this summer has been both effective and continued. The better qualities of the cloth make up into charming and serviceable frocks for wear at the seaside, where the air works havoc with stiffened materials of the organdie order. One such toilet worn by a charming actress, fresh from the hands of the dressmaker, was of reseda French ba tiste covered with sprays of flowers in reddish pink. The bodice, made with a draped bolero Jacket, edged with lace, was held together by a Jeweled clasp at the left side. Under the Jacket was a loose blouse of swiss and lace, while the skirt was set with vertical tucks, covered by bands of lace inser tion. At the lower extremity of each band of insertion the skirt flared out so that the invisible tucks gave the lower part of the-skirt the appearance of being flounced. The sleeves were novelties. Each resembled an elongat ed seashell, for they were made of a series of shell shaped pieces of batiste, each edged with a narrow frill of white lace. They terminated at the elbow, at which point it was the intention that the sleeve should be met by a long glove of cream colored silk. The hat worn with this dainty costume was built entirely of white chiffon shirred over a wire foundation. The wide brim was swathed in rows of lace that wound around the crown, showing only here and there from underneath soft white choux. The low. necked effects are not only picturesque, but extremely comfortable for summer wear. Nearly all the more modish of the indoor gowns are made in this style and are Usually finished off with one of the fanciful chiffon or muslin fichus that give to the costumes ice take the following ingredients: Three pints of fruit, 12 ounces of pow dered sugar, two whites of eggs. Pick the stalks from the fruit, lay it on a flat dish and sprinkle It thickly with four ounces of the sugar; Simmer the rest of the sugar with a quart of wa ter for ten minutes. Rub the fruit through a fine sieve with the back of a spoon. Mix this with the sirup, then stir into it the beaten whites of the eggs. Freeze as before. Should the mixture be too pale the color may be heightened by a few drops of carmine or prepared cochineal. Currants and raspberries mixed together make a nice water ice in the proportion of two pounds of currants to half a pound of y yyy READY TO SERVED. CT ' Zs-ssSgZXK turn the handle slowly AND JL 2M j "l EVENCr UNTIL THE CREAM IS Stiff THE STEPS IN ICE CEEAM MAKING. of the moment a delightful suggestion of antiquity, such as is associated with powdered hair and patches. A very chic costume for a young girl has Just been designed for the daughter of a provincial millionaire family who, under the auspices of a kindly but im poverished duchess of unimpeachable pedigree and -unassailable- social posi tion, is making her bow to the little circle always so ready .to welcome marriage able dollars. The gown is of combined white canvas and. blue pique. The skirt has a front panel in the shape of a wide box plait, belted about the figure by a wide band of blue pique buttoned to each side of the plait. The bodice is fashioned with a very short bolero, opening above a waistcoat of blue and white stripes. The broad revers are faced with lace and extended into very narrow points, each clasped near the extremity by a handsome button to match the large buttons on the skirt. A deep cuff faced with white lace fin ishes off the fitted sleeve. Another gown worn by the elegant chaperon of the little parvenu was from Doucet and was intended for fete wear. It was of palest green silk mus lin, with a skirt and bodice falling open in loose plaits to show insertions of broad pieces of lace. A deep yoke of lace and sleeves with deep puffs of white chiffon at the wrist were further touches of white. The wide girdle was of the geen silk muslin. CATHERINE TALBOT. - Some Handsome Dresses. Cherry colored foulard, spotted or "snowed" with white, is a fashionable material in Paris. A handsome gown of this fabric has a rounded empiece ment forming a double collar of white silk piped with black, the idea being re peated at the hem of the skirt and bor dering an insertion of cluny lace. With this toilet is a long dust cloak with a string colored lace hood. . Another pretty gown was in crevette pink foulard trimmed with insertions of guipure and having'that slight touch of black which Paris dressmakers wise ly consider necessary to the gown of light coloring. Hats on the Bois are crowded with flowers, and many of them are tied be neath the chin with narrow black vel vet strings. Some of the fancy colored straw hats are absolutely guiltless of trimming. These are made in a combi nation of shaded straws which in front take the form of a big bow. Other fashionable hats are of crumpled "crin" trimmed with full blown pink roses. Plane, Batiste and Lairi Goiru, Piques, batistes and soft silks are all being worn this season. There is noth ing prettier than a tea colored lawn tucked all over, except where lace is Inserted, some gowns having a deep, thick cluny lace round and one of the new waistbelts made of painted gold tissue. The bodices with these lawn dresses have lozenge shaped inlets of lace amid a wealth of tucks. Voiles trimmed with waved lines of lace, divided by corded tucks, are made up 'over silk, which shows at the vest, and belted with a jeweled belt, the bodice trimming a deep tucked llsse cape collar. Embroidered silk is let into some of the voiles, and gauze rib bon plays its part in the decoration of this material. The truth is we wear our silk now "with a difference," as if half ashamed of it, and use it mostly as a trimming. The summer combinations have small waists, fitting closely to the fig ure in cotton and wool mixtures or rib bed silk delightfully trimmed with lace and silk guipure. raspberries. The Juice may be extract ed from the fruit by squeezing it with the hands through a strainer ; but, if preferred, the currants may be stewed in a small quantity of water first, then rubbed through a. sieve, like the first recipe for strawberry water ice. To make chocolate ice cream take one quart of cream, one pint of milk, three quarters of a pound of sugar, two eggs and five tablespoonfuls of ; chocolate. Scald the milk and add the sugar, then the eggs, beaten together, and the chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little milk. Stir all together and place over the fire until it begins to thicken. When cool, freeze in the freezer. To make peach or any other fruit Ice cream put half of the cream on to boll; when hot, add the sugar and stir until it dissolves. Take from the fire, add the rest of the cream, and when cold freeze this. Take the fruit, remove any skin or seeds and mash to a pulp which can be passed through a fine sieve. Stir quickly into the ice cream, turning the handle for five minutes longer. Then place aside for serving. LAURA FIELD. A NEW STOCKING SUPPORTER. With the days of bicycling the pop ularity of the stocking supporter or suspender became general, and its com fort for walking and ordinary wear quickly made itself appreciated. The drawback urged with regard to some makes, however, is the tendency of the fastenings to tear the top of the stock ing, and the ingenuity of manufactur ers was accordingly set to work to ob viate this risk. ' An ingenious method of meeting the difficulty has been arrived at by the in ventors of the velvet grip stocking sup porter which has lately made its ap pearance on the market and is to be ob tained at any good drapery or ladles' outfitting establishment. The descrip tive name is due to the fact that the fastening consists of an imperishable rubber button, which is inserted be neath the top of the stocking, a metal hoop .being then passed over both so as to hold them securely together without any possibility of becoming unfastened. The strain on the fabric of the stocking is considerably lessened by this in genious contrivance, the soft material of the button, while not in any way weakening the grip, preventing the dan ger of tearing the top of the stocking which it holds. Tha velvet grip is made on the same principle as most other suspenders and is to be had, with or without a band. In white or black cotton or in silk or satin of any shade to match the cor sets and hosiery. Irish Homeipaii and Frieze, The summer coats and wkirts in Irish frieze or homespuns are prettily strap ped and stitched, and the facings al ways of the most pleasing harmony in delightful contrast. For example, a heliotrope homespun has white facings, delicately embroidered with mauve and pale blue flowers and foliage; another in pale green is faced with cream panne, stamped with delicate pink flow ers and foliage. There is every pastel shade imagin able in cloths, as well as the new pinky reds used in making the modish gowns. Some have little Eton or bolero bodices. Among other garments worth notice in the shops are the covert coating cos tumes, riding habits and driving coats, among them many admirable Viennese models. The traveling capes and cloaks will prove most useful to those who are wending their way to the mountains. The skirts are particularly well cut, and many are to be sold singly. To go with these are several pretty silk and muslin shirts and blouses. Parle Gowns. Paris is very gay just now, and the celebrated Bois is daily thronged with graceful toilets. The tailor made is strongly in evidence, it seems, and blue and brown and fawn and gray are fa vorite colors. The bolero enjoys a lars;e share of favor, and foulards are coming out in profusion. The Parislenne wears her hat low over her brows, and a white lace veil shades her face from the glare of the sun, for which purpose also she carries the daintiest of sunshades in shot silk or gathered chiffon. A description comes from across the water of an original dress of cluny lace strapped with pale mauve and white foulard, the bodice having insertions of mauve embroideries upon a plaited em. piecement. Another robe Is described of silver gray crepe de chine. Here, again, glittering embroideries are used with a lavish hand. The bodice opens over a front of cream lace strapped across with black ribbon velvet, and the skirt is gauged over the hips. Lyonnaise Potatoes, Apple Salad. Coffee. HOT BUTTERED OATMEAL CAKES. Hub twe ounces of butter into half a pound of oatmeal; add salt to taste and mix with cold water. Koll out rather thinly, form into small cakea and bake in a moderate oven. Butter and serve hot. DINNER. Fruit. Puree of Vegetable Marrow. Boiled Leg of Mutton, Currant Jelly. Mashed Potatoes, Cauliflower. Green Peas. Celery. Orange Pudding. Coffee. PUREE OF VEGETABLE MARROW. Peel and cut up two medium sized marrows; put them in an enameled saucepan with an ounce of butter, an onion, a little celery seed, a bay leaf,- pepper corns (tied in a muslin bag), aalt and enough stock to barely cover the vegetables. Boil them till quite soft; then rub through a sieve; return them to the saucepan and add enough milk to make the soup the consistency of -cream. A little corn flour may be added to thicken, ii liked. Serve with fried croutons. LUNCHEON OB TEA. Fruit. Bouillon. Stuffed Potatoes. Waffles. Fried Chicken. Tomato Salad. Salted Almonds. Charlotte Kuate, Tea, Chocolate. SALTED ALMONDS. Put an ounce or two of almonds in a pudding basin, pour boiling water over them, cover and let them stand for five or six minutes. By pressing them between the finger and thumb the skins will readily come off. Dry in a clean cloth. Put a tablespoonful or less of olive oil, according to the quantity of almonds, in another small basin; put in the almonds and stir tbem round till all are coated with oil; then roll them in salt. Put them in the oven, which should be moderately hot, and leave them till a pale brown color. Take them out, shake off the superfluous salt, and when cold they are ready te serve. Bordwaa of Fowl. Divide a cooked fowl into Joints and take off the skin; with a pint of cold water mix a tablespoonful of chopped Spanish onion, a dessertspoonful of minced shallots, a tablespoonful of an chovy essence, an- ounce of butter and half an ounce of flour and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Let the sauce simmer till the onion is tender, then add a ta blespoonful of chili vinegar and two glasses of dry sherry. Place the Joints of fowl in it and let it heat for about half an hour. Add the Juice of an or ange before serving;. i? BREAKFAST, Jj) V Fruit. yy, lf Oatmeal Mush and Cream ey iLv&v Hot Buttered Oatmeal L&'y takes. J' Broiled Chops.