TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, AUGUST 11, 1900.
LA TE PARIS FASHIONS
PARIS, July 2S. The middle of sum
mer brings many suggestions of
new patterns and the new fabrics
which are to make beautiful the au
tumn wardrobe of the lady of fashion.
These are not a bit behindhand this
year, for many visitors to the exposi
tion, anxious to take home with them a
Parisian wardrobe, are besieging the
shops with orders for gowns a little in
advance of the. fashions. Most of the
strangers have been amazed at the
moderate prices asked for gowns even
in the most, famous shops. Sixty dol
lars buys a handsome frock, one which
the importer, depending on the name of
the maker for it3 prestige, would sell
in America for at least $250.
The most obvious modifications of the
gowns of. the year are in the sleeves.
These are many of them exact copies
of sleeves seen in famous pictures.
The Elizabethan sleeve, consisting of a
series of puffs, which are effected by
the use of encircling ribbon, braid or
velvet bands, is one of the most strik
ing and popular. The empire, with its
tight fitting lace undersleeve and point
ed oversleeve, reaching half way the
length of the forearm, is also decidedly
pretty. The Marie Antoinette is made
with a trimmed upper part, the lower
part of the forearm being covered by a
series of puffs divided by insertions of
lace. The Garibaldi sleeve has a flare
toward the wrist and is supplied with
a very much puffed undersleeve and is
the least striking of all. The direc
toire sleeve is rather loose, furnished
with a flaring trimmed cuff, from which
hangs a deep flounce of fine lace. The
Elizabethan sleeve is best adapted to
thin, soft fabrics; the Garibaldi for
dressy outdoor costumes, the Antoi
nette for dinner gowns of the severe
high necked sort and the directoire for
fanciful outdoor gowns!
The fabrics for fall will include
broadcloth, of course. What season has
been without broadcloth in some form
or other? Black is likely to remain a
favorite cclor for some time to come,
so that a gown of black broadcloth is a
safe investment. Light colors are to
be worn a great deal, and blues will
continue in the favor they have enjoyed
during the summer. The day of pastel
shades is nearly over; one sees very
few among the new gowns on the
streets or In the shops. Venetian
cloth, which "is first cousin to broad
cloth, is to be still worn, while satin
victoria cloth and its kindred will have
some representatives in the modish
gowns of the season. The novelties
are a two hued camel's hair cloth and
combinations of cloth and velvet. Pop
lins,; bearing, as they do, the stamp of
the pnglish queen's approval, will have
a large vogue in England and America.
Faquin has made some very handsome
models of that cloth which show its
possibilities in the hands of a capable
designer. Fabrics of mixed silk and
wool will be valuable in the achieving
of chic afternoon and dinner toilets of
the demidress sort.
Trimmings will likely undergo many
modifications before the final standard
is attained. One novelty at least will
b3 t)ie use of designs of stamped velvet
to trim the edges of skirts. On the vel
vet other patterns of cloth the same
color as the dress will be used. Self
brimming will be very much favored,
. tucks and adaptations of the dress ma-
fr
POOLING
ICES FOR HOT
THERE are few households in which
an ice cream freezer is not to be
found. The cheapness of the uterf
makes it possible to have homemade
ices, sherbets and creams superior in
quality to any to be purchased in the
ordinary shops. There are churns now
upon the market that will freeze the
mixtures in a few minutes, so that the
ices may be made just a short time be
fore serving and be perfectly fresh and
solid when placed upon the table. The
best one for satisfactory results has a
eide wheel which accomplishes an even
congealing- of the cream.
The ice packed about the can should
be mixed with rock salt in the propor
tion of a little less than three-quarters
of ice to one-quarter of salt. The ice
must be pounded into small pieces.
The best way to do this is to put the
lump into an old sack or bag and pound
it with some blunt headed instrument,
like a wooden mallet or the head of an
ex or hatchet. The ice will in this way
be retained in the bag, the pieces mot
flying all over the room.
When the cream has been placed In
the can, after examination to see that
the handle and beater work all right,
the ' ice and salt should be packed
around the outside of the receptacle.
It should be arranged: first, a layer of
ice placed next to the can, then a layer
cf salt, and so on until the pail is filled.
When all this has been done, turn the
handle slowly and evenly until the
cream tis so stiff that you can turn it no
longer; ordinarily, it takes 15 minutes
to freeze the cream. Then take off the
handle, wipe off the lid of the can, so
that no salt water may drop in when
it is removed, lift the lid and remove
the beater. Press the ice cream down
with a spoon (a wooden one is best)
and put on the lid again, corking up
the opening through which the handle
passed, and cover the lid with a flannel
cloth. Fill the freezer with more
rough ice and put it in a cool place un
til it is time to serve the cream.
It should be remembered that liquids
expand in freezing, so that the mixture
placed in the can should always be less
than it will hold. The quantity of sug
ar used in making ice cream is an im
portant consideration, for too much
will retard the freezing and too little
Will make the ice cream too bard.
It should be remembered that the
finer the ice is crushed the more quick
ly will it melt and the cream be frozen.
The more rapidly the mixture is stir
red the more quickly will it be frozen,
for the rapidity of the revolutions ex
poses the mixture in all parts more
thoroughly to the cold.
For freezing, about 20 veuads of lea
terial now being much used on the
preliminary models.
The use of lace is not likely to be
suspended; ve'nise, point, cluny, luxeuil
and Valenciennes are favored at the
moment and show no abatement in
popularity, which argues their cor
uance into the fall season.
One of the luxurious fads of the 1
has been flower sunshades. Cer
extravagant dames have even appe
with those of natural flowers, tre
with a preparation that prolongs 1
freshness for an hour or two. Artil
flowers are made to look so lifelike
they are almost undetectable, and n
such sunshades have charmed the
at the races and in the Bois du
logne on fine afternoons. Instea
sunshades covered with flowers, fin'
fects are often achieved with garli
of natural flowers draped over
parasols covered with siik or Chi
The Louis Quinze parasols, with 1
very long handles of costly wood
precious chinas, are quite as quaint
elegant as even a court dame of
old regime would have aspired to
sess.
The use of pompadour ribbons
hour
tain
ared
ated
:heir
icial
that
lany
eye
of
e Br
ands thin
ffon.
Lheir
s or
and
the
pos-
for
DESSERTS
WEATHER
are needed for a gallon freezer. Some
persons imagine that the melted ice
should be drawn off as soon as it is re
duced to water. This is a mistake, for
the latent cold remaining in the water
helps freeze the cream. In order that
none of the water may run into the
can there should be an outlet a short
distance below the lid. Draw off the
water when it floats the ice.
It is a good plan not to try to freeze
the cream too rapidly. When slowly
frozen, the grain is better. For the
best creams the liquid is scalded and
the sugar dissolved in it while hot.
Raw cream frozen tastes too much like
snow.
In measuring the ice and salt to pack
into the freezer a good plan Is to use a
shallow dish or pan, putting in a layer
of ice three Inches thick and then a
layer of salt one inch thick and pack
the mixture close with a wooden spoon.
After the cream is made it is better
to allow it to stand for an hour or two.
This will cause the flavor to blend per
fectly with the cream. When it is to
be served, dip the can quickly in cold
water, wipe and invert over a large
dish, and the cream will slip out neatly.
If the cream is to be served in forms,
fill the molds with the cream, taking
care to press down with a spoon, so
that every part may be filled. Place a
piece of white paper around the edge
and put on the lid. Cover the point
with a strip of muslin dipped in melted
butter and pack the molds in salt and
ice until they are needed.
When the ice cream freezer is put
away, it should be cleaned and the can
scalded and dried and left with the lid
off until it is to be used again. In the
winter months snow may be substitut
ed for ice. A substitute for a patent
freezer may be made of a deep, covered
can or pail and a wooden pail or firkin.
The cream must be scraped from the
sides of the can now and then and be
beaten every little while with a wooden
spoon.
A longer time is required for freezing
water ices than ice cream. The crank
should be turned for a few minutes
and then stopped for a few minutes.
When the handle will no longer turn,
remove it, take out the beater and
scrape the mixture from the elides of
the can and beat with a large wooden
spoon.
In making a sherbet freeze quickly
until the mixture is almost hard. Then
take out the beater and miac with the
contents the white of one egg beaten to
a froth with a tablespoonful of pow
dered sugar and beat until all is stiff.
Stir the sherbet into the frozen mix
ture and allow it te stand for an kour
sashes Is a successful touch to most
white gowns of the hour. Pompadour
medallions covered with painted flow
ers on white silk suggest that the se
ries of revivals will be further illu
minated by one suggestive of the fash-
HANDSOME LATE SUMMER
ions of La Belle Pompadour. The Ma
rie Antoinette touches and those bor
rowed from the toilets of the reign of
the various Louis of France have
made the season, while a singularly
artistic one, very much of a potpourri.
One notices a good deal of gold
thread used to outline embroideries on
or so. In removing an Ice from a mold
in case it should stick dip it into cold
water, never in warm water, or the
shape will be spoiled.
Here are several recipes for making
creams:
Vanilla Ice Cream. Take one quart
of milk, one pint of cream, four eggs,
two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, one
pound of powdered sugar, vanilla es
sence. Stir the cornstarch very
smoothly with a little of the scalded
milk in which is the dissolved sugar;
beat the yolks of the eggs. Boil the
rest of the milk, pour it over the corn
starch; then stir in the beaten yolks
of eggs and add a pinch of salt. Stir
this mixture over the fire until it is
slightly thick and clings to the spoon;
then allow it to cool. Beat the whites
of eggs to a stiff froth, mix them with
the custard and flavor with vanilla es
sence to taste.
To make lemon water ice take eight
lemons, 12 ounces of loaf sugar, four
eggs, whites only. Put into an enamel
ed saucepan the thinly pared rinds of
three lemons, the sugar and one quart
of cold water. Simmer for ten min
utes. Squeeze and strain the Juice of
eight lemons, add it to the sirup, which
must also be strained from the peeL
When cool, beat up the whites cf the
handsome parasols and frocks. It
promises to be a large factor in the
trimming of the winter evening gowns.
A costume of string colored laee over
white tulle was brightened by the use
of outlinings in gold thread, with the
effect of rich, yet simple, appearance.
Buttons are probably for some time to
form a very important part in the trim
ming of elegant gowns of cloth. The
jeweled buttons, although costly' and
beautiful, are not to be compared in
desirability to a few of the beautifully
painted antiques which only those who
have in their strong boxes ancestral
gowns or the means to purchase them
GOWNS AND BODICES.
at an exalted figure can hope to flaunt
in the face of poor and pedigreeless
votaries of fashion.
The tendency even for outdoor dress
es is to cut the neck rather low.. A
yoke of lace comes up about the neck,
and the bareness of the throat is re
lieved by a chapeau scarf of tulle or
eggs and stir t.iem in. Pour Into- the
ice pail and freeze.
Orange water ice may beiUiad by
taking seven oranges, one lemon, ten
ounces of loaf sugar, four eggs, whites
only. Grate the oranges and lemon,
with the lumps of sugar until most of
the yellow part is removed. Simmer
the sugar with a quart of cold water
five minutes. When cool, add the
strained Juices of the oranges and lem
on and the whites of eggs beaten to a
froth. Freeze according to direction's
given with the particular machine used.
Whites of eggs give more body to wa
ter ices, but may always be omitted if
desired.
To make raspberry or any other fruit
tX-, PACK THE MIXTURE OF - 17 ""iTl ; "
lis-y rr ICE AND SALT CLOSE 1 4 U U A 1 fPpT V J ,
I
chifFon holding the hat in position. One
such costume of the standard summer
fabric for afternoon wear foulard silk
was charming in the extreme. Inser
tions and applications of silk lace trim
med the gown, a scroll-like border of
applications of geranium red silk trim
ming the skirt half way to the knees.
The bloused bodice boasted a scarf of
the geranium silk bordered with lace,
while a long scarf of white chiffon
trimmed with a deep band of lace was
suspended from one side of the neck
and was caught at the waist with a chou
of the same material. The belt was a
pointed one of silk, while the sleeves
fitted quite close to the arms and were
trimmed below with a fanciful design
worked out In applications of silk and
lace.
." The use of batiste this summer has
been both effective and continued. The
better qualities of the cloth make up
into charming and serviceable frocks
for wear at the seaside, where the air
works havoc with stiffened materials of
the organdie order.
One such toilet worn by a charming
actress, fresh from the hands of the
dressmaker, was of reseda French ba
tiste covered with sprays of flowers
in reddish pink. The bodice, made
with a draped bolero Jacket, edged with
lace, was held together by a Jeweled
clasp at the left side. Under the Jacket
was a loose blouse of swiss and lace,
while the skirt was set with vertical
tucks, covered by bands of lace inser
tion. At the lower extremity of each
band of insertion the skirt flared out
so that the invisible tucks gave the
lower part of the-skirt the appearance
of being flounced. The sleeves were
novelties. Each resembled an elongat
ed seashell, for they were made of a
series of shell shaped pieces of batiste,
each edged with a narrow frill of white
lace. They terminated at the elbow, at
which point it was the intention that
the sleeve should be met by a long
glove of cream colored silk. The hat
worn with this dainty costume was
built entirely of white chiffon shirred
over a wire foundation. The wide brim
was swathed in rows of lace that
wound around the crown, showing only
here and there from underneath soft
white choux.
The low. necked effects are not only
picturesque, but extremely comfortable
for summer wear. Nearly all the more
modish of the indoor gowns are made
in this style and are Usually finished
off with one of the fanciful chiffon or
muslin fichus that give to the costumes
ice take the following ingredients:
Three pints of fruit, 12 ounces of pow
dered sugar, two whites of eggs. Pick
the stalks from the fruit, lay it on a
flat dish and sprinkle It thickly with
four ounces of the sugar; Simmer the
rest of the sugar with a quart of wa
ter for ten minutes. Rub the fruit
through a fine sieve with the back of a
spoon. Mix this with the sirup, then
stir into it the beaten whites of the
eggs. Freeze as before. Should the
mixture be too pale the color may be
heightened by a few drops of carmine
or prepared cochineal. Currants and
raspberries mixed together make a nice
water ice in the proportion of two
pounds of currants to half a pound of
y yyy READY TO SERVED.
CT ' Zs-ssSgZXK turn the handle slowly AND JL 2M
j "l EVENCr UNTIL THE CREAM IS Stiff
THE STEPS IN ICE CEEAM MAKING.
of the moment a delightful suggestion
of antiquity, such as is associated with
powdered hair and patches.
A very chic costume for a young girl
has Just been designed for the daughter
of a provincial millionaire family who,
under the auspices of a kindly but im
poverished duchess of unimpeachable
pedigree and -unassailable- social posi
tion, is making her bow to the little circle
always so ready .to welcome marriage
able dollars. The gown is of combined
white canvas and. blue pique. The skirt
has a front panel in the shape of a
wide box plait, belted about the figure
by a wide band of blue pique buttoned
to each side of the plait. The bodice is
fashioned with a very short bolero,
opening above a waistcoat of blue and
white stripes. The broad revers are
faced with lace and extended into very
narrow points, each clasped near the
extremity by a handsome button to
match the large buttons on the skirt.
A deep cuff faced with white lace fin
ishes off the fitted sleeve.
Another gown worn by the elegant
chaperon of the little parvenu was
from Doucet and was intended for fete
wear. It was of palest green silk mus
lin, with a skirt and bodice falling open
in loose plaits to show insertions of
broad pieces of lace. A deep yoke of
lace and sleeves with deep puffs of
white chiffon at the wrist were further
touches of white. The wide girdle was
of the geen silk muslin.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
- Some Handsome Dresses.
Cherry colored foulard, spotted or
"snowed" with white, is a fashionable
material in Paris. A handsome gown
of this fabric has a rounded empiece
ment forming a double collar of white
silk piped with black, the idea being re
peated at the hem of the skirt and bor
dering an insertion of cluny lace. With
this toilet is a long dust cloak with a
string colored lace hood. .
Another pretty gown was in crevette
pink foulard trimmed with insertions
of guipure and having'that slight touch
of black which Paris dressmakers wise
ly consider necessary to the gown of
light coloring.
Hats on the Bois are crowded with
flowers, and many of them are tied be
neath the chin with narrow black vel
vet strings. Some of the fancy colored
straw hats are absolutely guiltless of
trimming. These are made in a combi
nation of shaded straws which in front
take the form of a big bow. Other
fashionable hats are of crumpled "crin"
trimmed with full blown pink roses.
Plane, Batiste and Lairi Goiru,
Piques, batistes and soft silks are all
being worn this season. There is noth
ing prettier than a tea colored lawn
tucked all over, except where lace
is Inserted, some gowns having a deep,
thick cluny lace round and one of the
new waistbelts made of painted gold
tissue. The bodices with these lawn
dresses have lozenge shaped inlets of
lace amid a wealth of tucks.
Voiles trimmed with waved lines of
lace, divided by corded tucks, are made
up 'over silk, which shows at the vest,
and belted with a jeweled belt, the
bodice trimming a deep tucked llsse
cape collar. Embroidered silk is let
into some of the voiles, and gauze rib
bon plays its part in the decoration of
this material. The truth is we wear
our silk now "with a difference," as if
half ashamed of it, and use it mostly as
a trimming.
The summer combinations have
small waists, fitting closely to the fig
ure in cotton and wool mixtures or rib
bed silk delightfully trimmed with lace
and silk guipure.
raspberries. The Juice may be extract
ed from the fruit by squeezing it with
the hands through a strainer ; but, if
preferred, the currants may be stewed
in a small quantity of water first, then
rubbed through a. sieve, like the first
recipe for strawberry water ice.
To make chocolate ice cream take one
quart of cream, one pint of milk, three
quarters of a pound of sugar, two eggs
and five tablespoonfuls of ; chocolate.
Scald the milk and add the sugar,
then the eggs, beaten together, and the
chocolate, rubbed smooth in a little
milk. Stir all together and place over
the fire until it begins to thicken. When
cool, freeze in the freezer.
To make peach or any other fruit Ice
cream put half of the cream on to boll;
when hot, add the sugar and stir until
it dissolves. Take from the fire, add
the rest of the cream, and when cold
freeze this. Take the fruit, remove any
skin or seeds and mash to a pulp
which can be passed through a fine
sieve. Stir quickly into the ice cream,
turning the handle for five minutes
longer. Then place aside for serving.
LAURA FIELD.
A NEW STOCKING SUPPORTER.
With the days of bicycling the pop
ularity of the stocking supporter or
suspender became general, and its com
fort for walking and ordinary wear
quickly made itself appreciated. The
drawback urged with regard to some
makes, however, is the tendency of the
fastenings to tear the top of the stock
ing, and the ingenuity of manufactur
ers was accordingly set to work to ob
viate this risk. '
An ingenious method of meeting the
difficulty has been arrived at by the in
ventors of the velvet grip stocking sup
porter which has lately made its ap
pearance on the market and is to be ob
tained at any good drapery or ladles'
outfitting establishment. The descrip
tive name is due to the fact that the
fastening consists of an imperishable
rubber button, which is inserted be
neath the top of the stocking, a metal
hoop .being then passed over both so as
to hold them securely together without
any possibility of becoming unfastened.
The strain on the fabric of the stocking
is considerably lessened by this in
genious contrivance, the soft material
of the button, while not in any way
weakening the grip, preventing the dan
ger of tearing the top of the stocking
which it holds.
Tha velvet grip is made on the same
principle as most other suspenders and
is to be had, with or without a band.
In white or black cotton or in silk or
satin of any shade to match the cor
sets and hosiery.
Irish Homeipaii and Frieze,
The summer coats and wkirts in Irish
frieze or homespuns are prettily strap
ped and stitched, and the facings al
ways of the most pleasing harmony in
delightful contrast. For example, a
heliotrope homespun has white facings,
delicately embroidered with mauve and
pale blue flowers and foliage; another
in pale green is faced with cream
panne, stamped with delicate pink flow
ers and foliage.
There is every pastel shade imagin
able in cloths, as well as the new pinky
reds used in making the modish gowns.
Some have little Eton or bolero bodices.
Among other garments worth notice in
the shops are the covert coating cos
tumes, riding habits and driving coats,
among them many admirable Viennese
models.
The traveling capes and cloaks will
prove most useful to those who are
wending their way to the mountains.
The skirts are particularly well cut,
and many are to be sold singly. To go
with these are several pretty silk and
muslin shirts and blouses.
Parle Gowns.
Paris is very gay just now, and the
celebrated Bois is daily thronged with
graceful toilets. The tailor made is
strongly in evidence, it seems, and blue
and brown and fawn and gray are fa
vorite colors. The bolero enjoys a lars;e
share of favor, and foulards are coming
out in profusion. The Parislenne wears
her hat low over her brows, and a white
lace veil shades her face from the
glare of the sun, for which purpose also
she carries the daintiest of sunshades
in shot silk or gathered chiffon.
A description comes from across the
water of an original dress of cluny lace
strapped with pale mauve and white
foulard, the bodice having insertions of
mauve embroideries upon a plaited em.
piecement. Another robe Is described
of silver gray crepe de chine. Here,
again, glittering embroideries are used
with a lavish hand. The bodice opens
over a front of cream lace strapped
across with black ribbon velvet, and
the skirt is gauged over the hips.
Lyonnaise Potatoes,
Apple Salad.
Coffee.
HOT BUTTERED OATMEAL CAKES. Hub twe
ounces of butter into half a pound of oatmeal;
add salt to taste and mix with cold water. Koll
out rather thinly, form into small cakea and bake
in a moderate oven. Butter and serve hot.
DINNER.
Fruit.
Puree of Vegetable Marrow.
Boiled Leg of Mutton, Currant Jelly.
Mashed Potatoes, Cauliflower.
Green Peas. Celery.
Orange Pudding.
Coffee.
PUREE OF VEGETABLE MARROW. Peel and
cut up two medium sized marrows; put them in
an enameled saucepan with an ounce of butter,
an onion, a little celery seed, a bay leaf,- pepper
corns (tied in a muslin bag), aalt and enough
stock to barely cover the vegetables. Boil them
till quite soft; then rub through a sieve; return
them to the saucepan and add enough milk to
make the soup the consistency of -cream. A little
corn flour may be added to thicken, ii liked. Serve
with fried croutons.
LUNCHEON OB TEA.
Fruit.
Bouillon.
Stuffed Potatoes. Waffles.
Fried Chicken. Tomato Salad.
Salted Almonds. Charlotte Kuate,
Tea, Chocolate.
SALTED ALMONDS. Put an ounce or two of
almonds in a pudding basin, pour boiling water
over them, cover and let them stand for five or
six minutes. By pressing them between the finger
and thumb the skins will readily come off. Dry
in a clean cloth. Put a tablespoonful or less of
olive oil, according to the quantity of almonds,
in another small basin; put in the almonds and
stir tbem round till all are coated with oil; then
roll them in salt. Put them in the oven, which
should be moderately hot, and leave them till a
pale brown color. Take them out, shake off the
superfluous salt, and when cold they are ready te
serve.
Bordwaa of Fowl.
Divide a cooked fowl into Joints and
take off the skin; with a pint of cold
water mix a tablespoonful of chopped
Spanish onion, a dessertspoonful of
minced shallots, a tablespoonful of an
chovy essence, an- ounce of butter and
half an ounce of flour and a pinch of
cayenne pepper. Let the sauce simmer
till the onion is tender, then add a ta
blespoonful of chili vinegar and two
glasses of dry sherry. Place the Joints
of fowl in it and let it heat for about
half an hour. Add the Juice of an or
ange before serving;.
i? BREAKFAST,
Jj) V Fruit.
yy, lf Oatmeal Mush and Cream
ey iLv&v Hot Buttered Oatmeal
L&'y takes.
J' Broiled Chops.