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0OiOtO0.sO O.OsOi-O0jO-tO 0-,t-Ot-0 J?C oj. O Os- o o-j o &o -o- o o- Oj.0 O J 00; o-i ooi-ojo--o o " o o o d PARIS FA LETTE o 6 6 7 SHION t. V V .1 "3 : y :' Or - 7( J v v .V TOUITG GIEL'S EASIER TOILET. FASHION JOTTINGS. Miroir vel"ets !n cream, iEroKl. pale turquoiso an-i ntoue. lKrh 'lain and etanipej. f ti m the ft)undatins t'f many lovely toques, -".ine are studd -d with jeveis rtn-1 are almost invariably suf terifl with feathers or wreaths of pink roses and I'arma violets. How attractive are the numerous ac- t WHSH i LOVGLY 4 WOWAH STOOPS W N THE year 2f'01 women will not i 1 have to clean house. When the re- j Ij currence of the vernal equinox I arouses in the breasts of women j m that vague unrest which now finds j energetic expression in the papering, j calcimininjf. dusting, souring, sweep- ing saturnalia now- popularly known as - house., leaning, their activities will be , happily diverted into other channels. ! and household economics will have been reuueed to such a system that the dread season will have lost its horrors. After the new woman has thoroughly Investigated and reinvested the sphere of man she will have time to devote pome thought to those moss grown ob-st.-rvanees which are now classified by the unenpghrened as sweetly feminine functions. Houseeleaning is one of these. Then shall the world know how Mrs. Xoah cleaned the ark, if at all; whether the ancient Fgyptian ladies used hard or soft soap, and if. per chance, the Fompeiian's housemaids swabbed down their mosaic lined wails with alcohol or ammonia. With these momentous and scholarly points no mere male intellect could successfully pr'ipple. but by the year 200 1 women, after reviewing every other question in tha universe, will find time to devote ; 'Vu , ' ill' rtstl jjj . , ; :. y x i x - i a y .,. ..... V - . A;: eessoris of the fashionable toilet of the moment! Take, for instance, the delightful little jabots, pins and belts. A f afhii na.ble woman possesses a dress of beautiful. Sine, silky black gui pure over mousseline de soie. In thi3 the is wise enough to have the yoke and sleeves quite transparent, and with it she veara only a rope of costly pearls. SFRIHG House- CLSAKIKG TO a little attention to these points. When the name of the superior sex is spelled with a capital W. each city w ill have its brigades of cleaners organized for the care of houses on much the same principle as the present street cleaning brigades. White capped, while t lad squads of these, hired at so much per day from the city department, will make their appearance at patrons' houses armed with ms. brooms, pails. soaps, calcimining brushes and all the r ara; hernah'a that now strikes terror to the s:ui of helpless man when femi nine intuition discovers it Is time to take up the tacks and hang the carpets over the hack yard fence. Systemat ica, iy and persevc-ringly, the brigaie vi!l toil for six hours (then the legal working day), and at twi'ight peace will reign, with the mansion cleansed and in order. Bridgets will then be no more, or. rather, they will all be at the universities taking higher courses in psychology or analyzing the elements of the cosmic ether, and man will be happily employed doing all the domes tic hard work, about which he now- the orizes so prettily, but at which he so seldom takes a hand. For those still struggling with pres ent day conditions a few suggestions may be timely: In renovating the house besln with the rooms least used end gradca'iv approach these constantly occupied. As each room is finished 1: should be closed and left so until- the rest of the house Is put in order. Thus mud and dust wili be shut off from the swept and garnished portions of the hoiis-?. To clean a room It is always best be fore beginning work to remove all the Oil paintings which are cov ered with varhish are al ways carefully and thorough ly cleansed each spring with soft cloths which have teen well wrur.g out in perfectly clean water. The pictures should never be scrubbed, a gentle though protracted rub bing being all that is neces sary. Be careful to stand at the side of the picture while cleaning it, as in that position there is less danger of injury than when one is directly in front. The cord or wire should be inspected carefully each season to see that it is neither frayed in the middle nor loose t the ends. ARIS, March 23. With the ap proach of Easter every one in terested in young people about to take their first communion i3 anxiously shopping-. No season is M. fraught with greater importance than that when "ia petite demoiselle" is formally united with the church. In deed, next to her wedding day, it is the most important of ail days to the "jeune temme" of France. For a fear weeks shop windows and dressmakers' showrooms literally overflow with the uniform of the seasons. To France the spring communion is a time of as great interest as the commencement period that in America is the last formality divorcing young womanhood from the schoolroom. The girls here, however, emerge only temporarily from their convent retire ment to take part in the impressive communion services whose splendor in the wealthy families is of a character to distract the attention from the quiet pursuit of learning in cloistered suli tuie. But, then, after all, France is a land of contradictions and contrasts, and the Parinienne finds the ruling pas sion stronsr even in anticipatory thoughts of graveclothes. For the celebration of the preat event in the young girl's life half a dozen gowns are ordered in fashionable fam ilies one of these for the services In the chapel or church, another for the preliminary service and a third for the receiving of friends at home after the event is over. Mademoiselle always has a new street gown, which she wears happily back to her seclusion tn the convent, where for another half dozen months she is clad in the convent student's habit. The child comes home merely because there is generally a sen timent in regard to having the family priest, who has probably baptized the girl, receive her into the church. For a girl of 12 nothing could hnve heen prettier than the gown that a small friend of mine proudly displayed as her toilette de communinnte. The material was One white muslin laid over white silk. The skirt was very full in fact. I thought it a trifle co quettish for so solemn an occasion and so hinted to the little curly haired Ba Uette. who merely raised the silken lashes over her deep blue eyes in the greatest surprise. "Ah, but it is so chic! Madame, can aught be too good for the occasion?" And who can cavil when the communi cant flaunts her furbelows in this spirit before the throne of grace? Over the hips the skirt was laid in narrow plaits that half flattened the side applications for three-quarters of its length. Below the folds undulated into a. very fair imitation of a shaped flounce, the surface of this being orna mented with groups of narrow tucks. Th front of the skirt, itself a separate breadth, was covered with groups of narrow tucks. The upper part of the waist seemed a mass of tucks inter pnersed with narrow lace insertion.--:. The puffed elbow sleeves were headed by oblong shoulder bands of lace and stitched muslin. Km-ircling the girlish waist, a fold of soft white silk matched the bands that divided the upper and lower puffs of the sleeves. Eabette de furniture to some other apartment a vacant one. if possible where the dif ferent pieces may be tidied before they are returned to their places. If the fur niture must be left in place, cover It with pieces of muslin to keep eft the dust. The pictures, the window shades and the draperies ought to be next lifted down and dusted, the carpet taken up and the walls brushed down if they are not to be repapered. The calciminir.g of the ceiling is a hygienic feature n-t to be omitted, for the application fresh ens the room and destroys the eggs of insects found overhead. The floor must be scrubbed after the paint has been cleaned and the grate and fircirons have been biaokleaded and brightened. In the bedroom the bed should be taken apart and the un varnished parts washed in boiling: wa ter and alum, which will kill Insects' egg3. The windows may then be pol- ished, and, when everything has been aired, cleaned and brightened, the car pets should be tacked down, the furni ture returned to its place and pictures and draperies rehung. Probably the first work that the care ful housekeeper w ill do is the taking up and cleaning of the carpets. Ingrains are better for being lifted and shak en every spring and autumn, for the dust that accumulates on their surfaca is a great source of wear and tear. Carpets should be beaten on the wrong side by the most ablebodied male in the family, unless he is willing to hire a competent substitute. Spinster house holds must hire some one able to wield a stout cudgel with continuous force for two hours at a stretch: the most earnest and athletic of serving maid's are seldom equal to a satisfactory per formance of this kind. One of the wicker carpet beaters manufactured ex pressly for the purpose is the best, although a broom is generally used in unenlightened communities. The flex ibility of the wicker is one of its merits. Ftout rattans two or three of them twisted together also take the dust out cf the carpet very well. : - 1 V n ' V :( T s- O' ' V- Xr-''"2l 0a Va- S . A' i? , scribed everything with precocious ac curacy: . "For my toilette de' Iendemain" (the day following communion, which is also a holiday to the fair communicants) "I shall wear thi3 frock which mamma ordered for me. oh, many weeks ago, from her own modiste on the Rue de la Paix." And the small bit of vanity dragged from its tissue paper wrap pings a dainty frock of fancy salmon silk. Sweet and girlish it was, with the incrustations of lace on collar, blouse and revers. The little rounded coat, a double one, rather short, opened so that a great deal of the blouse, which was striped with narrow black velvet, was disclosed to the admiring eye. The skirt fell over a tablier striped with the velvet and, although laid smoothly over the hips, flared a good deal below them. The silken belt was clasped with a charming buckle of gold enamel in shades of green and touches of black and white. The bolero sleeves, modish to the dainty upturned cuff of lace, were underset by soft sleeves of white 'chiffon, whose narrow bands were clasped by enameled gold buttons. To cap the child's curly locks the milliner had pro-Ided the most picturesque wide brimmed hat trimmed with spring flow ers. "Mamma has ordered for herself a beautiful gown," chattered . the little one, and when her ridiculously young looking mother came into the room nothing wculd do the minx but that I pronounce upon the mater's gown. When Mme. la Mere arrayed herself ! In the gown and hat and paced sedately tip and down before us in charming mimicry of the Rue de la Paix dress- I makers' models, I could not but make wy verdict a neutral one, for, in its way, the delicate pastel blue cloth, with its beautifully molded skirt falling in a graceful square train, was a sight to charm the crustiest critic of feminine apparel. Of course, the costume was fitted with a bolero. What gown now adays is seen minus the coat? But thia special specimen of the genus was pointed even to long, narrow' angles crossed in front, which gave a peculiar touch of originality to the garment. The band of bias white cloth that trim med the lower part of the skirt was du plicated as a jacket border and again made Its appearance on the deep col lar, cut in sloping lines that reminded one a bit of a b'-y's sailor. The skews opened at the sides to the elbow, th.e zigzag line of blue contrasting sharply with the white cloth, undersieeve which showed at the wrist sufficiently to sug gest a cuff. The skirt and bodice were "la princesse," the odd, embroidered vest of white, silk being brought well to th waist line, but cut quite short in the bark. Abov this, in sharp con trast, the collar nd tie of black satin brought out to "perfection the dainty shades of pink and white in the silk embroidered vest and in the fair com plexion of the wearer. In harmony i with the wide rimmed chapeau of the tiny girl was a wide rimmed hat (it re- i minded one of the miilinery of the sec- j end empire, although its proportions l were more modest) oddly trimmed over its spreading eaves by a full flounce of ; chantilly lace. The underbrim trim- ming of black satin spread out in fold3 j and knots. The fiat crown itself won a t Brussels or velvet carpets need no be taken up oftener than once in two or three years. Their surfaces are so com pact that the dust does not easily pene trate. To wash off thick carpets make A broom wrapped with several thick nesses of cloth is best for cleaning the wall paper. a solution consisting of two ounces of carbonate of ammonia to one gallon of water, and, wringing a clean cloth out In the water, cleanse the surface of the carpet, taking care to wipe the breadths off at once with a dry rag. When the water looks dirty, get a fresh ' O note of Individuality from the lined trimming of black satin set In four par allel roxvs around the elevation. All this show was most entertaining, and when a pretty visitor came in and they began to discuss appropriate gifts and little Babette announced what ehe hoped to receive from her admiring rel atives I was much amused. The oider folk, it seemed, wished to bestow pres ents of a useful character, and Babette disapproved of this as decidedly as the little American girl whose thrifty par ents consider new shoes or a new hat or frock the most desirable gift for high holidays. Babette yearned for trinkets end baubles and actually prayed that a great-aunt whose intention it was to present a handsome prayer book should be turned from the error of her way and be convinced that a more acceptable gift would be a tiny watch, preferably one of the new doll's watches, set in. the heart of an enameled flower which ping to the corsage. ' But, ma cherie, you could not enjoy It, you know. The good sisters at the convent would not allow you to wear the watch. You are too young for such trinkets." "Oui, oui, maman, but then I could look at it sometimes. Just think! Tante Adrienne, here, who was complaining that she did not know what to buy for me, could get for me a jewel case on of those pretty enameled ones with my monogram on the lid." When Babette had been silenced, though by no means convinced that a book would be far from appropriate for her, the conversation wandered to other trifles, and Mile. Adrienne showed me her new chain a pretty, narrow ribhon glittering with quaint motifs In brilliants. This was useful as well as ornamental, for it was attached to the miniature timepiece snugly stowed away in the girdle of her new biege serge gown. She wore in her bronze hair a quan tity of the new jeweled hairpins. Hers were gold, with brown topaz incrusta tions glittering like imprisoned sun beams whenever she turned her head. At her waist she wore a large gold hook, handsomely ornamented with tiny jewels. From this were suspended purse, pencils, scent bottles and other fashionable auxiliaries, including even the silver case in which she carried the tiny powdered book whose leaves were convenient for renewing the whiteness of her complexion in case of emergen cy. It was a pretty and a convenient ornament, and you -may be sure that when the check for this letter reaches Paris one will be owned by the admir ing CATHERINE TALBOT. Hrnidine: and Cj-clitig Snttfl. There are few prettier or more fash ionable styles of trimming good cloth tailor made gowns than with military braiding, and at one of the fashionable shops an elegant specimen of the braid ing is shown. The gown is made of black cloth, trimmed with inch wide black braid. It has a strapped collar and is gracefully braided. Tite vest is of siik, peau de soie. The skirt has a very wide and ample flounce: the length of the basque is indicative of the fashion of the hour. Cycling skirts have established them- supply. Should the carpet seem soiled ifter this a pint of ox gall (which can !e bought at the butcher's) dissolved in hree quarts of cold water and rubbed iver the surface with a soft scrubbing biush will thoroughly brighten It. Of course, the lather must be carefully tak en off with cold water and the carpet rubbed dry with clean rags. When the ceiling has received the at tention of the caleiminer, the walls are cleaned down. A soft white cotton cloth laid in several thicknesses over the room and tied securely in place re moves the surface dust completely. The walls should be cleaned from ceiling to mopboard in straight, parallel lines. If the paper is soi'ed. a ha'f loaf of stal bread, dampened (not wet), rubbed gen tly over the paper will remove spots and finger marks. When the bread be comes soiled, cut off a slice and dampen the loaf anew. In places where the pa per is broken aid the plaster has fallen out make a paste of plaster of paris and white sand mixed with a little wa ter. This should be smoothed into the hole with a knife, and when the surface has dried paper cut to match the miss ing piece should be pasted in its place. Boiled paste made of flour (or starch) and water is used for papering. Grease spots on the wall may be removed with a stiff paste made of fuller's earth and ox gall. The paste is applied to the spot and then covered with a piece of white blotting paper. When the mix ture has stood, for a few hours, it is brushed off, and if any grease remains the process is repeated. To clean white paint take a little dampened powdered whiting on a soft flannel cloth and rub the wood thor oughly with it. Neither soap nor sand should be used. To renovate painted woods of any kind the following mix ture is useful: Four ounces of potash, four ounces of powdered quicklime and three quarts of boiling water. Allow the stuff to boil in an iron kettle for half an hour. When It is cold and well settled, pour off the clear liquid, and with a stout brush paint the wood. The coating should be wiped off at once ' . I V V; ..' J", - ! I ', ! i .y i j( r i'j ! TAILOE HADE GOWN selves as undoubted favorites with the public, and they are now made in many new cloths, one especially, in a fine serge, trimmed with closely stitched bands, the basque of the jacket being cut somewhat long in front and double breasted, w as worthy of admiration. Clever tailors are busy with black cloth made up as skirts and coats, wi;h short and long basques. The newest In 2001 the housecleaning brigade with wet flannel. This mixture is said to be destructive to the larvae of in sects. Tea leaves also are excel lent for brightening colored paint. The leaves should be allowed to accumulate for several days and then boiled in a quantity of water for half an hour. To the water strained from the kettle a tablespoonf ul of powdered borax should be added. Apply this with a soft flan nel cloth, equeezed almost dry. To clean a painted floor use ' weak soapsuds put on with a mop and then carefully washed off with clear water. Unpainted floors are whitened by the use of fuller's earth and scouring sand made into a paste and rubbed into the boards. This paste should be washed off with lukewarm water. A quarter of a pound of pearlash in a Pint of hot water will remove grease spots. They must be well scrubbed with the pearl ash and water. To clean the windows or any glass surface soft paper dipped in alco hol or the preparation of cold tea and borax recommended for washing paints Is better than soap and water. Paper is superior to cloth, which wouid leave specks of lint upon the glass. The crys tal must always be wiped dry with dry paper. Picture glasses may be cleaned in the same way as windows. To restore gilt frames dissolve as much flour of sulphur as will give the required tinge in about a quart of wa ter in which half a dozen small onions have been sliced. Boil the liquid until the onions are tender, strain, wash the frames with it and let it dry there. To keep out moths wash crevices with a half pound of alum dissolved in boil ing water. Powdered alum should be sprinkled about wherever it is suspect ed that the moths will make their ap pearance. The winter's superfluous bed clothing, particularly the blankets, ought to be wrapped in newspapers and put away in tight boxes or drawers in which borax and camphor have been sprinkled. Red or black pepper, sandal wood any odorous substance is offen sive to the insects. Ftreirons that have become tarnish ed may be renewed by rubbing with emery paper or with a paste made of emery powder in equal parts of turpen tine and sweet oil. To blacken fenders ! that have become discolored use half a j pound of asphaltum gum dissolved In i a pint of turpentine and mixed with a j pint of linseed oil. In the cellar the furnace should b FOE EASTEB. WEAS. style of ail Is a cutaway coat, like a man's, and a postilion basque at the back. It is to be hoped some woman of fashion will give this the desired afflatus, for nothing can be more ugly or ungraceful to the female form divine than the straight line to the waist and the plain backs to the skirts now to be seen in all our fashionable thorough fares. will be composed colely of men cleaned out, the refuse removed, tha pipes brushed and the dust and cob webs swept from ceiling and walls. Thn registers in ell the rooms mua, of course, be closed during this process. It sweetens a cellar to give It a thor ough whitewashing, but many peoplu do not like this because the wash rubs off so easily. If all the cellar woodwork is brushed with a solution of ten pounds of copperas in five or six gallons of water the atmosphere of the plact will be considerably improved, and a stampede of vermin will follow. BLANCHE IIALU TlrVi ELY MENUS. Dr.KAblAST. Fruit. Grape Nuts, St.uar and Cream Freni.h Krh'l I'otaioet. Yr- H- rnnjf. buU.T likes. IViU.h JtIO totlee. FRESH HERKIXGS. Take a many ftrfc Iv-r-rinits 9 you i-h to usj Cut te fUli cjwn. re move the lyk!un,; tin n wash an;l dry th r( i.'k-fi-y in a cl-n ciu' It. Tafc enrh pu-re of tt-n, bruh over tho ir.i!e with l j :n fez, fi' '-'J -n with chupp''i oni-m. p pp r ac.'i Kalt ami ri -m toiiethfr. When ail are itne in this wav. a pan of boiiintf fat f j'iy, hrubli over -ac t lirrirs; itb eirtf, dip iiito fine bread cruml-s anJ fry ttJt cohJ. tierve very hot after drying on yys Lj lore the fire. ixnchfon or tea. Fruit. Tomato 4' i!y Salad. Frir-d iters. C'rt'itrruMi Ccicry. K"jU ani -J-.-lly. . J k iiioU-i. 1v or Cocoa. PJVPvF.lt. Eoef Croiui-ttrs. Ma-hf! Patc. Asparagus. Irf-tiuce wiih frrjnth JJreat-in J. Boilcti lii'-c Parsnip lx-inun Jolly. Cofli-e. TAPIOCA SOUP. Ft this orr frr. Piwf stock with a, .hk1 dt-.il of a-ajin? is suit tf'i". For two quarts of Htu-.k take two wnn i of tin ioca and tnih it fine. Wb"n the Mvk is --." free of fat, biintf it to tf:e l"i! and ir p iri it tapioca (ffiitSy. Stir for five niinut-s to prv. nt the tapioa funni:jr into lump and th,-n l.'t it cook ttently for t'n rjiiii'iU'H KuiL't r. IJ fre s rv injj remuvo the t-.Kim which frms vn tiie top liund grated parmcsan cheese with tliia aoujp.