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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 23, 1901
Late Fashions From Fans Q -4Cd . ARIS, Nov. 9. Ermine Is in high favor this winter. It is used in small pieces as a trimming for coats and frocks and in more gener ous portions in the makeup of neck or naments. Collars and" scarfs of fur are a little larger than last year, the tend ency , being to broaden them and in crease the number of talis which dan gle from the fashionable collarette. Muffs of fur and lace for evening wear are as dainty as they are costly. With a theater costume they are supplement ed by a boa or collar which is carried conspicuously when not on the neck of the wearer., Decorations in the form of Jeweled clasps are added to neck orna ments wherever there is an available excuse for their employment. The fash ionable woman of the period is given quite an ecclesiastical appearance by the stolelike cut of fur necklets. Long cloaks are worn for both even ing and afternoon functions. They have largely displaced short coats even for the street. For promenade dresses the three-quarter coats are often fa vored, and some of these are very hand some, with their elaborate stitchings and strappings. I much admired a three-quarter sack coat made of red cloth and appliqued with scrolled bands in red taffeta which made a striking appearance on the graceful figure of a well known" society beauty who was making a round of calls in her automo bile the other day. To present this charming coat to your mind's eye, let me say that the sleeves were wonder ful flaring things, measuring two-thirds more at the wrists than at the elbows. Silk, closely stitched, formed narrow bands around the lower parts of the sleeves, while elaborate scrollings ran up the forearms. A square collar, slightly indented, was fashioned of tucked taffeta and framed with stitch ed silk bands which seemed to disap pear underneath the collar to reappear as an edge for the sides of the coat. 'A narrow vest of white pique embroider ed in black filled in the space above the collar and came down the side of the wrap to form a vest. Altogether, it was a very pleasing wrap. Three-quarter coats, so trying to the figures of short, stout women, are de veloping many odd and picturesque styles. One of the most charming of these was a Red Riding Hood cloak nade of deep red cloth lined with er mine. The sleeves were so full and (lowing as to call to mind those of the old fashioned dolman, than wjiich, how ever, they were more graceful. Two rows of black stitching on sleeves and coat gave a delicate finish to the bor d 'is. A draped hood and straight col lar of guipure lace over Hilk formed the urir part of this loose and flowing wrap. Another garment of the loose coat type was made of smooth cloth in the shade knnwn as wood brown. The wide I'i'vers, which followed the entire length of the front, were faced with gray silk over which were tied little knots of soft brown ribbon. The high cloth collar v as a simple turned over affair. Sleeves were full to below the elbow, where they were strapped over fitted uri.io-Biopvi s of gray silk. Velvet coats are taking the place of ACCESSORIES FOR THE...... Thanksgiving Feast ; -. HE American public has two great feast days. Thanks giving and Christmas, and W, of these the former is cele w brated with the greater pomp and ceremony in the majority of homes. Differences of race and reli gion are forgotten in the observance of the harvest feast which the Puritans, who had Englishmen's love of good eat ing, preceded with prayers that only seive?. to whet their appetites for the good things which the pilgrim mothers stayed at home from meeting to bake and brewr. The quality of a feast is no longer judged by the abundance of the viands. With all the Inherited love of good food, the American Is becoming refined and wishes his victuals served with a certain touch of aesthetic completeness. While handsome table embroideries and laces, beautiful china, glass, silver and tasteful floral decorations are aux iliaries to the main consideration, they are important, since food should be served so that it will please the eye as well as gratify tire taste. So great an advance has been made in culinary art in the last twenty-five years, thanks to cooking schools and kindred advantages, that the average housekeeper can serve as well garnish ed a dish as the professional chef. If for ordinary meals no attempt Is made to decorate the dishes, the grand feasts of the year, Thanksgiving and Christmas, afford an excellent oppor tunity for making all those special touches that characterize the highest culinary art. For the banquet the ta blecloth and all the linen must be of the most spotless quality. A vase of . Dinner at fo4erate Cost. Oyster Soup. Roast Turkey, Oyster Dressing. Cranberry Tarts. Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Onions. Sliced White Turnips with Whit Sauce. Celery. Corn Croquette. . Lobster Salad. Bread. Butter. Strawberry Sherbet. Crackers. Chaw. Coffee. . Fruit. roses from the florist's, late flowering asters or autumn leaves will give a touch of color to the center of the ta ble. The prettiest dishes should be ehoMB for displaying the food, and aa the taffeta boleros that had so. great a vogue last year. The velvet coafs are sometimes plain, ornamented f with bands of stitching or.in. other .cases richly garnished with fur.. A velvet coat in warm, rich red trimmed with a collar of ermine was one of the most successful wraps made by a certain fa mous tailor for a highbred patron who loves a touch of brightness in every thing she wears. To go with the coat a toque of velvet of the same shade was ordered, and this was trimmed with au tumn leaves in several shades of red and brown. Velvet flowers look so rich and yet j are so exquisitely uamiy in coior mat they are rapidly taking the place of ai grets and feathers. Jeweled ornaments of all sorts are used with the flowers, and the artistic effect of such milli nery is very fine. The materials most fashionable for winter gowns are not such as recom mend themselves to the economical wo man. The majority of the fabrics are quite loosely woven, and their rather furry surfaces, covered with loose - embroidered or lace trimmed mat laid between the table and the vessels hold ing the viands. The plates on which such things as bread, cake, etc, placed should be covered with an em broidered doily of the finest quality. The turkey is the principal feature of the Thanksgiving feast. In selecting the fowl a moderate sized one is likely to be the tenderest. If a bird has long spurs upon the legs and these are pale and rough, be sure It is an old gobbler. Fowls that have been killed for some time are characterized by sunken eyes and dry feet. After having been thoroughly singed and cleaned the turkey may be roasted for about three hours. The process of cleaning includes the removal of the head close to the back and the removal of the entrails, taking care not to break the gall bag, whose fluid will impart a bitter taste to everything it touches. The. gizzard and the liver are laid to one side, and when the fowl has been washed inside and out each wing is pinioned to the sides, the legs are bro ken below the knees, and the skin about th neck la draws up and fastened. Tha A.--.A..A..A. -.A. -.A. -.A.-: Z Mashed potatoes. jgk ffm2i&3X . J II - -; , I ' JCri Corn Croquettes. i hairs, are veritable dragnets for dust or "soot. The frdcks made with these ex tremely pliable fabrics are graceful, for . the , stufts dra.pe admirably., and the stitched plaits, without which few 1 frocks are considered complete, are eas- WINTER WRAPS FOR STREET AND THEATER WEAR. ily shaped in the soft, open meshed woolens. Browns and reds are popular colors at the present time. Thev are not ex- ploited in aggressive shades, but in what is known as damask rose, cardi nal pink or vieux rose. Brown in the tine peculiar to autumn leaves or barks is usually enriched with a touch of or ange or emerald or red in trimming. What is known as- rosewood brown may be trimmed with rose to good ad vantage. Flowers of velvet make handsome decorations for street gowns; so do liver is then inserted underneath one wing and the gizzard underneath the other. The dressing for the turkey depends upon the taste of the family. Some choose a forcemeat seasoned with sage, others like the chestnut dressing, while there are those who prefer oysters. To make oyster dressing for a ten pouud turkey two pints of bread crumbs, a 1 cupful of butter chopped into small l Roses and Terns.. j Lobster A jK -Assorted flowers of silk and of chiffon, which look like crushed specimens of the gen uine blossoms. The latter enrich cost ly evening gowhs. Chrysanthemums fashioned from baby ribbon trimmed a dinner gown of delicate pink silk. '' The flowers were built of pink ribbon in a tint a little deeper than that of the frock. Leaves were made of . shot glace silk, with stems embroidered in baby ribbon. A rose gown, with flowers in all shades from the deep red "Jack" to the palest La France, was made up over white gauze, the extreme delicacy in tint ap pearing in the .wreath, of pale pink roses about the neck. Caracal is the most exploited cloth for the three-quarter coats to which fur trimming is superadded. The latest trick of the smart woman is to have her afternoon hat garnished with bands of the caracal. Instead of buttons, I noticed on a handsome coat of the latest mode the use of embroidered prnaments with two silken tassels depending from their cen ters. The sleeves, trimmed with bands of sable, were so wide that they made the carrying of a muff superfluous, since the hands could be snugly tucked away inside the sleeves. The high col lar had a very pronounced De' Medici pieces, a teaspoonful of powdered thyme and some pepper and salt are mixed thoroughly. Rub the fowl well inside and out with pepper and salt and then stuff the crumbs inside the turkey, after which a few oysters are added. Oyster Juice is used for basting the roast, the turkey being allowed to i brown for three hours. Sauce is made of giblets chopped and . fried. Oysters ' are laid about the turkey when Cranberry Tans. fruits. served to give it an ornamental pearance. After the turkey, the pumpkin pie occupies the most Important place on f pumpkin Pie. curve, and the deep revers, faced with fur, must have formed an excellent chest protector. Old fashioned damasks and brocades are de rigueur for evening wear. This means that empire evening gowns hold second place. The great ladies of the old regime in Parisian society have done all they could to discountenance empire fashions, and they have to some extent succeeded. Long pointed bod ices and skirts draped upon the hips suggest the revival of panniers and are distinctly Louis XVI. in style. The story goes that the great ladies of the Orleans faction, jealous of ihe assump tion of social leadership implied by the resolution recently passed by the ladies' auxiliary to the Bonapartist club, de clared that the wearing of empire ap parel should be frowned down, and by mutual understanding their clique or ders only gowns suggestive of the mon archial periods. The nouveau art ornaments are utiliz ed for hair ornaments, clasps for the hair, bracelets and pins. Imitation gems are now so skillfully manufac tured that they cannot be distinguished from the real ones except by the eyes of a trained lapidary. The use of flowers of chiffon, both as ornaments for the coiffure and for mil linery, is one of the prettiest features of the. season's fashions. There are a lightness and an airiness about the flowers manufactured of this fabric that give a touch of daintiness and of quaintness to the most commonplace face. Persian trimmings in broad bands and shaped embroideries trim winter frocks of cloth, giving an oriental rich ness to the dark grays, browns, blacks and blues that is both pleasing and novel. The application of gold to the embroideries places many of them be the Thanksgiving bill of fare. If baked in an earthen dish, it will present a bet ter appearance at the table if served directly In this dish inclosed in an or namental silver platter. Bits of aspar agus green scattered over the surface of the pie contrast with the deep golden brown of the crust and the pumpkin. Mashed potatoes are a necessary part of the menu. Shaped into a pyramid upon a handsome platter, they may be given a very appetizing appearance, es pecially if dressed with sprigs of celery and small cubes cut from a cold potato or a raw turnip. No Thanksgiving feast is well round ed out without the appearance on the table of the little red berry that grows in the marshes, otherwise known as the succulent cranberry. Cranberry tarts are more toothsome than the ordinary cranberry sauce. Patty shells may be bought at the confectioner's and filled with the stewed and sweetened berries. This will relieve the housekeeper of making crust. The shells bought at the confectioner's are handsomer In ap pearance than homemade ones are like ly to be. Corn is so Important a feature of the autumn harvest for which the feast of Thanksgiving was celebrated by the pilgrim fathers that the grain should appear in some form at the up to date banquet. Croquettes of corn made in tiny rolls and arranged In a pyramid yond the means of ordinary folks, but the imitations, although they will tar sish sooner or later, are quite durable enough for a season's wear. Vests of Persian embroideries are added to the short coats, and a touch of the trim ming is being used on smart toques. After all, it should not seem odd that the, dressmakers, having exhausted the possibilities of occidental fashion, have gone to the orient for suggestions. CATHERINE TALBOT. Individuality In Hairdreiilns, - So far as clothes go, there is infinite variety, which heightens the mystery of the fact that when you have seen one modish woman you have seen all. Coiffures are a large factor in this de plorable reiteration. And, not content with having during the past few years worked the high note to the point of weariness, we are now preparing our selves to patiently and rigorously re peat the operation with the recently re suscitated low dressing. Now, a little bit of both would be so much more pleasing and really only reasonable, since different shapes of heads and contours demand different coiffures. Or there Is a midway dressing, a more or less classical arrangement eminently be coming to a certain type of woman possessed of a pretty, rounded head and hair preferably with a natural wave in it and worn with a parting. Now, that is how nature has con structed many of us who during the past half decade have deliberately vio lated all these good intentions by a ruthless scraping up of our hair to the summit of our heads and so deliberate ly courted failure. Inevitably, and rightly so, Is there much weeping and wailing and gnash ing of white teeth among those some what short of stature over the pre scribed knot in the nape of the neck. There is no denying that a high knot adds several cubits to a curtailed height and at the same time imparts an importance and presence perhaps other wise lacking. Indeed, this is a case in point in reference to more choice and freedom in these toilet details and less abject submission to the decrees of la mode, ever lenient before a, present ment that is becoming. The Applique Craze. Fur and lace, lace .and fur and fur and lace and velvet make a chorus that never fails to captivate our au tumn and winter fancy, a chorus, more over, that asks the aid of the needle. Stitchery, stitchery, all the time, and never a stitch too much. Applications are to be the ruling bent in this year of grace. The craze for applying one material over another amounts almost to a disease, for It is irresistible. The cut out cretonne motifs and trails con tinue to declare themselves, while the mystery lent to this decoration by a veiling of transparency, preferably the very finest aerophane, is a vast improve ment. Shaded so discreetly, all hard ness is lost, and there Is substituted a certain shadowy suggestiveness which is the very essence of artistic feeling. Lace and Jeweled Effect. There is an ever increasing tendency on the part of ladies to adopt plain blouses and skirts during the earlier part of the day, but for afternoon and evening wear everything in the way of dress is very elaborate. Heal lace and good quality sequin trimmings are very much used for the decoration of dinner gowns and theater blouses. Jew eled passementerie is also coming into favor again, but at present it is only being employed in the ornamentation of breakfast jackets and tea sacks made of good quality crepe de chine or white Japanese silk. on a base of greens is an up to date way o serving the grain. A sherbet of some sort served pret tily in the ornamental sherbet cups now found in every housewife's cupboard makes a nice dessert. The kind of sherbet is best determined by the taste of the family. Here is a recipe for making strawberry sherbet: Take two quarts of canned strawberries and mash them with two cups of sugar. When the sugar has dissolved, add two cups of water. Press all through a sieve, then add to the pulp the Juice of one lemon and pour all into a freezing can packed In ice and salt. Now add one cup of milk and freeze the sherbet immediately. Let it stand two hours before serving it in fancy cups. If salad is desired for the feast, lob ster can be arranged to look best. When the salad has been prepared af t erthe ordinary method,' it should be piled in tiers, with first a row of sliced cucumbers, then a row of salad, until a pyramid is complete. Pieces of the lob ster, slices of beet root and slices of hard boiled eggs are used as a garnish. A generous supply of fruit for one end of the table and of nuts for the other should not be omitted. Placed in high dishes, the nuts and fruit must be arranged to look as picturesque as pos. sible. ETHEL. KNOX. The Wedding Cake. Wedding cake boxes are in any de sign which the bride is pleased to or der, if she gives the instructions long enough in advance. At present, how ever, there is a tasteful preference for severe shapes, with dependence upon the beet materials for distinction. Heavy "white water color" papers are the proper sort for the covering of boxes, on the tops or sides of which the monoerrams, usually of both bride and bridegroom, are blended in relief, either in white or in gold and silver. Ribbons for tying the boxes are of moire, taffeta or satin. The bride's cake is exclusively the bride's. Whatever the amount of cake previously stored in boxes for the guests to carry away as they pass out, there is always an especially decorated cake among the good things served to the guests. It is intended frequently that the bride herself shall cut this cake in the presence of the guests, es pecially her maids, who expect to find in it a gold ring or some other article portending the marriage within a year of the finder. A bride lately took high handed hold of tradition and substituted a heart for the ring of our foremothers' supersti tion, i To 'Whites tha Skim. Mix one wlneglassful of fresh sprain ed lemon Juice, ten drops of rosewater atad half a pint of distilled or elder flower water. Keep it well corked and apply every night after washing. Let the wash dry and. If using it for your face, rub in a little cold cream after applying. ODD TREATMENT OF WINTER HAT BRIM. A striking winter hat is a lovely soft flop of fine felt with undulating brim and dented crown threaded with delicate vieux rose velvet, the brim raised off the head at the left aid by trails of shaded red clematis. The round, flat shape carried out la gray camel's hair, caught up with, tur quoise blue velvet and fancy wings, the brim lightly trimmed with lace, the ex treme edge with mink, la a handsome model. A black velvet hat dips well toward the face and has a couple of fancy wings at the side, the brim being bor- dered with shaped frilllngs of white glace covered with black chiffon. These and the cloth volants on the same plan are distinctive novelties of the season's millinery, and another feature in milli nery modes is exemplified in a fawn cloth toque with a double brim, the ap erture filled in with china silk, the up per brim edged with ecru insertion. In a mink hat the new flat shape is sim ply draped with cream lace spotted with black, caught up with a pasts buckle, for fur and lace are to be great ly worn all the season through. A Smart Black Gor. A notion that bears the impress of elegant motif is a soft black gown of cashmere l'inde, eolienne crape or mus lin cloth trimmed with coarse ocher colored lace, the lace carried in long lines from throat to feet and down the back of leeves, slightly puffed at the wrist. Behind the lace is placed a lin ing of white taffeta. The best beloved lace in this deep tint is composed of a sort of drawn thread embroidery. There is a perfect rage for this on th continent, where entire gowns are cre ated of it mounted over white taffeta slips. What supreme heights of dain tiness cannot the needle attain nowa days! Truly it is a craft of most cun ning capabilities, one that enables us to individualize, specialize and general ly excel. Brown, Fawn and Tnroaoise. A smart gown is of brown panne cloth, with trimmings of perforated and embroidered cloth In a deep fawn tint laid over turquoise blue. The vest is of turquoise faille, with floral Inser tion lace and the belt of the deepest brown velvet. This model can be cop ied in other colorings or if in black can be trimmed with coarse black lace or guipure laid over turquoise blue silk. SWING BREAKFAST. Fruit. Rolls and Butter. Minced Mutton. Creamed Potatoes. Compote ot Prune. Coffee. COMPOTE OF PRUNES. Take half a pint ft French plums or prunes, a quarter of a pint ol water, a quarter of a pint of wine, the rind of half a lemon, two cloves, two ounces of loal sugar. Put in a stewpan the prunes, water, wine, the thinly pared rind of half a lemon, the rlorrs and sugur. Let all simmer very gently until the fruit is quite tender. Let it get cold; then take out the cloves and lemon rind and add a few dia mond shaped pieces ot angelica. It is then rtady for use. LUNCHEON OR TEA. Fruit. Marbled Meat. Crackers with Anchovy Pasta. Corn Bread and Buttar. Lemon Tarts. Tea. MARBLED MEAT. Take a well grown chicken and cut all the meat from the bones. Cover s small beef tongus with cold water and boil two hours. Skin it and slice thin. Chop a pound of bacon with two hard boiled eggs. Grease a mold, cover the bottom with a layer of chicken, then a layer of bacon and eggs, then a sprinkle of pars ley, ground cloves, finely minced onion, tben more of the ingredients until all is uaed. Cover and press down; stand in boiling water thre hours. When done, stand to cooL Turn eut aad slic DINNER. Consomme Royal. Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauca, Stewed Corn. Sliced Tomatoes. Baked Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Onions with Cream Sauca Pumpkin Pic. Ice Cream. Cheesa. Coffee. Crackers. CONSOMME ROYAL. Scrape and chop up half a pound of beef. Clean and cut small a carrot, a turnip and an onion. Have three pints of nicely flavored stock which has been allowed to grow cold and from which all fat has been carefully re moved. Place stock, meat and vegetables in s copper stewpan, atir all together over the fire till just at the boiling point, then take out the whisk and let the soup boil up until it is clear. Take a clean, thick cloth, pour boiling water through it and place over a soup stand or large basin. Pour the contents of tha pan gently on the cloth, let it run through slowly twice, place in a clean stew pan and add nice seasoning of pepper and salt; if necessary, color slightly. Hare some custard ready for ths aoup, cut ft Into small square, sat in tli tureen sad poui tlx boiling soup arse.