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The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980, November 23, 1901, LAST EDITION, Editorial Section, Image 10

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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 23, 1901
Late Fashions From Fans
Q -4Cd
. ARIS, Nov. 9. Ermine Is in
high favor this winter. It
is used in small pieces as a
trimming for coats and
frocks and in more gener
ous portions in the makeup of neck or
naments. Collars and" scarfs of fur are
a little larger than last year, the tend
ency , being to broaden them and in
crease the number of talis which dan
gle from the fashionable collarette.
Muffs of fur and lace for evening wear
are as dainty as they are costly. With
a theater costume they are supplement
ed by a boa or collar which is carried
conspicuously when not on the neck of
the wearer., Decorations in the form of
Jeweled clasps are added to neck orna
ments wherever there is an available
excuse for their employment. The fash
ionable woman of the period is given
quite an ecclesiastical appearance by
the stolelike cut of fur necklets.
Long cloaks are worn for both even
ing and afternoon functions. They
have largely displaced short coats even
for the street. For promenade dresses
the three-quarter coats are often fa
vored, and some of these are very hand
some, with their elaborate stitchings
and strappings. I much admired a
three-quarter sack coat made of red
cloth and appliqued with scrolled bands
in red taffeta which made a striking
appearance on the graceful figure of a
well known" society beauty who was
making a round of calls in her automo
bile the other day. To present this
charming coat to your mind's eye, let
me say that the sleeves were wonder
ful flaring things, measuring two-thirds
more at the wrists than at the elbows.
Silk, closely stitched, formed narrow
bands around the lower parts of the
sleeves, while elaborate scrollings ran
up the forearms. A square collar,
slightly indented, was fashioned of
tucked taffeta and framed with stitch
ed silk bands which seemed to disap
pear underneath the collar to reappear
as an edge for the sides of the coat. 'A
narrow vest of white pique embroider
ed in black filled in the space above the
collar and came down the side of the
wrap to form a vest. Altogether, it was
a very pleasing wrap.
Three-quarter coats, so trying to the
figures of short, stout women, are de
veloping many odd and picturesque
styles. One of the most charming of
these was a Red Riding Hood cloak
nade of deep red cloth lined with er
mine. The sleeves were so full and
(lowing as to call to mind those of the
old fashioned dolman, than wjiich, how
ever, they were more graceful. Two
rows of black stitching on sleeves and
coat gave a delicate finish to the bor
d 'is. A draped hood and straight col
lar of guipure lace over Hilk formed the
urir part of this loose and flowing
wrap.
Another garment of the loose coat
type was made of smooth cloth in the
shade knnwn as wood brown. The wide
I'i'vers, which followed the entire length
of the front, were faced with gray silk
over which were tied little knots of soft
brown ribbon. The high cloth collar
v as a simple turned over affair.
Sleeves were full to below the elbow,
where they were strapped over fitted
uri.io-Biopvi s of gray silk.
Velvet coats are taking the place of
ACCESSORIES
FOR THE......
Thanksgiving Feast
;
-.
HE American public has two
great feast days. Thanks
giving and Christmas, and
W, of these the former is cele
w brated with the greater
pomp and ceremony in the majority of
homes. Differences of race and reli
gion are forgotten in the observance of
the harvest feast which the Puritans,
who had Englishmen's love of good eat
ing, preceded with prayers that only
seive?. to whet their appetites for the
good things which the pilgrim mothers
stayed at home from meeting to bake
and brewr.
The quality of a feast is no longer
judged by the abundance of the viands.
With all the Inherited love of good
food, the American Is becoming refined
and wishes his victuals served with a
certain touch of aesthetic completeness.
While handsome table embroideries
and laces, beautiful china, glass, silver
and tasteful floral decorations are aux
iliaries to the main consideration, they
are important, since food should be
served so that it will please the eye as
well as gratify tire taste.
So great an advance has been made
in culinary art in the last twenty-five
years, thanks to cooking schools and
kindred advantages, that the average
housekeeper can serve as well garnish
ed a dish as the professional chef.
If for ordinary meals no attempt Is
made to decorate the dishes, the grand
feasts of the year, Thanksgiving and
Christmas, afford an excellent oppor
tunity for making all those special
touches that characterize the highest
culinary art. For the banquet the ta
blecloth and all the linen must be of
the most spotless quality. A vase of
. Dinner at fo4erate Cost.
Oyster Soup.
Roast Turkey, Oyster Dressing.
Cranberry Tarts.
Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Onions.
Sliced White Turnips with Whit Sauce.
Celery. Corn Croquette. .
Lobster Salad.
Bread. Butter.
Strawberry Sherbet.
Crackers. Chaw.
Coffee.
. Fruit.
roses from the florist's, late flowering
asters or autumn leaves will give a
touch of color to the center of the ta
ble. The prettiest dishes should be
ehoMB for displaying the food, and aa
the taffeta boleros that had so. great a
vogue last year. The velvet coafs are
sometimes plain, ornamented f with
bands of stitching or.in. other .cases
richly garnished with fur.. A velvet
coat in warm, rich red trimmed with a
collar of ermine was one of the most
successful wraps made by a certain fa
mous tailor for a highbred patron who
loves a touch of brightness in every
thing she wears. To go with the coat a
toque of velvet of the same shade was
ordered, and this was trimmed with au
tumn leaves in several shades of red
and brown.
Velvet flowers look so rich and yet j
are so exquisitely uamiy in coior mat
they are rapidly taking the place of ai
grets and feathers. Jeweled ornaments
of all sorts are used with the flowers,
and the artistic effect of such milli
nery is very fine.
The materials most fashionable for
winter gowns are not such as recom
mend themselves to the economical wo
man. The majority of the fabrics are
quite loosely woven, and their rather
furry surfaces, covered with loose
-
embroidered or lace trimmed mat laid
between the table and the vessels hold
ing the viands. The plates on which
such things as bread, cake, etc,
placed should be covered with an em
broidered doily of the finest quality.
The turkey is the principal feature of
the Thanksgiving feast. In selecting
the fowl a moderate sized one is likely
to be the tenderest. If a bird has long
spurs upon the legs and these are pale
and rough, be sure It is an old gobbler.
Fowls that have been killed for some
time are characterized by sunken eyes
and dry feet.
After having been thoroughly singed
and cleaned the turkey may be roasted
for about three hours. The process of
cleaning includes the removal of the
head close to the back and the removal
of the entrails, taking care not to break
the gall bag, whose fluid will impart a
bitter taste to everything it touches.
The. gizzard and the liver are laid to
one side, and when the fowl has been
washed inside and out each wing is
pinioned to the sides, the legs are bro
ken below the knees, and the skin about
th neck la draws up and fastened. Tha
A.--.A..A..A. -.A. -.A. -.A.-: Z
Mashed potatoes. jgk ffm2i&3X
. J
II - -; , I ' JCri Corn Croquettes.
i hairs, are veritable dragnets for dust or
"soot. The frdcks made with these ex
tremely pliable fabrics are graceful, for
. the , stufts dra.pe admirably., and the
stitched plaits, without which few
1 frocks are considered complete, are eas-
WINTER WRAPS FOR STREET AND THEATER WEAR.
ily shaped in the soft, open meshed
woolens.
Browns and reds are popular colors
at the present time. Thev are not ex-
ploited in aggressive shades, but in
what is known as damask rose, cardi
nal pink or vieux rose. Brown in the
tine peculiar to autumn leaves or barks
is usually enriched with a touch of or
ange or emerald or red in trimming.
What is known as- rosewood brown
may be trimmed with rose to good ad
vantage. Flowers of velvet make handsome
decorations for street gowns; so do
liver is then inserted underneath one
wing and the gizzard underneath the
other.
The dressing for the turkey depends
upon the taste of the family. Some
choose a forcemeat seasoned with sage,
others like the chestnut dressing, while
there are those who prefer oysters. To
make oyster dressing for a ten pouud
turkey two pints of bread crumbs, a
1 cupful of butter chopped
into small l
Roses and Terns..
j Lobster A
jK -Assorted
flowers of silk and of chiffon, which
look like crushed specimens of the gen
uine blossoms. The latter enrich cost
ly evening gowhs.
Chrysanthemums fashioned from
baby ribbon trimmed a dinner gown of
delicate pink silk. '' The flowers were
built of pink ribbon in a tint a little
deeper than that of the frock. Leaves
were made of . shot glace silk, with
stems embroidered in baby ribbon. A
rose gown, with flowers in all shades
from the deep red "Jack" to the palest
La France, was made up over white
gauze, the extreme delicacy in tint ap
pearing in the .wreath, of pale pink
roses about the neck.
Caracal is the most exploited cloth
for the three-quarter coats to which
fur trimming is superadded. The latest
trick of the smart woman is to have her
afternoon hat garnished with bands of
the caracal.
Instead of buttons, I noticed on a
handsome coat of the latest mode the
use of embroidered prnaments with two
silken tassels depending from their cen
ters. The sleeves, trimmed with bands
of sable, were so wide that they made
the carrying of a muff superfluous,
since the hands could be snugly tucked
away inside the sleeves. The high col
lar had a very pronounced De' Medici
pieces, a teaspoonful of powdered
thyme and some pepper and salt are
mixed thoroughly. Rub the fowl well
inside and out with pepper and salt
and then stuff the crumbs inside the
turkey, after which a few oysters are
added. Oyster Juice is used for basting
the roast, the turkey being allowed to i
brown for three hours. Sauce is made
of giblets chopped and . fried. Oysters '
are laid about the turkey when
Cranberry
Tans.
fruits.
served to give it an ornamental
pearance.
After the turkey, the pumpkin pie
occupies the most Important place on
f pumpkin Pie.
curve, and the deep revers, faced with
fur, must have formed an excellent
chest protector.
Old fashioned damasks and brocades
are de rigueur for evening wear. This
means that empire evening gowns
hold second place. The great ladies of
the old regime in Parisian society have
done all they could to discountenance
empire fashions, and they have to some
extent succeeded. Long pointed bod
ices and skirts draped upon the hips
suggest the revival of panniers and are
distinctly Louis XVI. in style. The
story goes that the great ladies of the
Orleans faction, jealous of ihe assump
tion of social leadership implied by the
resolution recently passed by the ladies'
auxiliary to the Bonapartist club, de
clared that the wearing of empire ap
parel should be frowned down, and by
mutual understanding their clique or
ders only gowns suggestive of the mon
archial periods.
The nouveau art ornaments are utiliz
ed for hair ornaments, clasps for the
hair, bracelets and pins. Imitation
gems are now so skillfully manufac
tured that they cannot be distinguished
from the real ones except by the eyes
of a trained lapidary.
The use of flowers of chiffon, both as
ornaments for the coiffure and for mil
linery, is one of the prettiest features
of the. season's fashions. There are a
lightness and an airiness about the
flowers manufactured of this fabric
that give a touch of daintiness and of
quaintness to the most commonplace
face.
Persian trimmings in broad bands
and shaped embroideries trim winter
frocks of cloth, giving an oriental rich
ness to the dark grays, browns, blacks
and blues that is both pleasing and
novel. The application of gold to the
embroideries places many of them be
the Thanksgiving bill of fare. If baked
in an earthen dish, it will present a bet
ter appearance at the table if served
directly In this dish inclosed in an or
namental silver platter. Bits of aspar
agus green scattered over the surface
of the pie contrast with the deep golden
brown of the crust and the pumpkin.
Mashed potatoes are a necessary part
of the menu. Shaped into a pyramid
upon a handsome platter, they may be
given a very appetizing appearance, es
pecially if dressed with sprigs of celery
and small cubes cut from a cold potato
or a raw turnip.
No Thanksgiving feast is well round
ed out without the appearance on the
table of the little red berry that grows
in the marshes, otherwise known as the
succulent cranberry. Cranberry tarts
are more toothsome than the ordinary
cranberry sauce. Patty shells may be
bought at the confectioner's and filled
with the stewed and sweetened berries.
This will relieve the housekeeper of
making crust. The shells bought at
the confectioner's are handsomer In ap
pearance than homemade ones are like
ly to be.
Corn is so Important a feature of the
autumn harvest for which the feast of
Thanksgiving was celebrated by the
pilgrim fathers that the grain should
appear in some form at the up to date
banquet. Croquettes of corn made in
tiny rolls and arranged In a pyramid
yond the means of ordinary folks, but
the imitations, although they will tar
sish sooner or later, are quite durable
enough for a season's wear. Vests of
Persian embroideries are added to the
short coats, and a touch of the trim
ming is being used on smart toques.
After all, it should not seem odd that
the, dressmakers, having exhausted the
possibilities of occidental fashion, have
gone to the orient for suggestions.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
Individuality In Hairdreiilns,
- So far as clothes go, there is infinite
variety, which heightens the mystery
of the fact that when you have seen
one modish woman you have seen all.
Coiffures are a large factor in this de
plorable reiteration. And, not content
with having during the past few years
worked the high note to the point of
weariness, we are now preparing our
selves to patiently and rigorously re
peat the operation with the recently re
suscitated low dressing. Now, a little
bit of both would be so much more
pleasing and really only reasonable, since
different shapes of heads and contours
demand different coiffures. Or there Is
a midway dressing, a more or less
classical arrangement eminently be
coming to a certain type of woman
possessed of a pretty, rounded head
and hair preferably with a natural
wave in it and worn with a parting.
Now, that is how nature has con
structed many of us who during the
past half decade have deliberately vio
lated all these good intentions by a
ruthless scraping up of our hair to the
summit of our heads and so deliberate
ly courted failure.
Inevitably, and rightly so, Is there
much weeping and wailing and gnash
ing of white teeth among those some
what short of stature over the pre
scribed knot in the nape of the neck.
There is no denying that a high knot
adds several cubits to a curtailed
height and at the same time imparts an
importance and presence perhaps other
wise lacking. Indeed, this is a case in
point in reference to more choice and
freedom in these toilet details and less
abject submission to the decrees of la
mode, ever lenient before a, present
ment that is becoming.
The Applique Craze.
Fur and lace, lace .and fur and fur
and lace and velvet make a chorus
that never fails to captivate our au
tumn and winter fancy, a chorus, more
over, that asks the aid of the needle.
Stitchery, stitchery, all the time, and
never a stitch too much. Applications
are to be the ruling bent in this year
of grace. The craze for applying one
material over another amounts almost
to a disease, for It is irresistible. The
cut out cretonne motifs and trails con
tinue to declare themselves, while the
mystery lent to this decoration by a
veiling of transparency, preferably the
very finest aerophane, is a vast improve
ment. Shaded so discreetly, all hard
ness is lost, and there Is substituted a
certain shadowy suggestiveness which
is the very essence of artistic feeling.
Lace and Jeweled Effect.
There is an ever increasing tendency
on the part of ladies to adopt plain
blouses and skirts during the earlier
part of the day, but for afternoon and
evening wear everything in the way
of dress is very elaborate. Heal lace
and good quality sequin trimmings are
very much used for the decoration of
dinner gowns and theater blouses. Jew
eled passementerie is also coming into
favor again, but at present it is only
being employed in the ornamentation
of breakfast jackets and tea sacks
made of good quality crepe de chine or
white Japanese silk.
on a base of greens is an up to date
way o serving the grain.
A sherbet of some sort served pret
tily in the ornamental sherbet cups now
found in every housewife's cupboard
makes a nice dessert. The kind of
sherbet is best determined by the taste
of the family. Here is a recipe for
making strawberry sherbet: Take two
quarts of canned strawberries and
mash them with two cups of sugar.
When the sugar has dissolved, add two
cups of water. Press all through a
sieve, then add to the pulp the Juice of
one lemon and pour all into a freezing
can packed In ice and salt. Now add
one cup of milk and freeze the sherbet
immediately. Let it stand two hours
before serving it in fancy cups.
If salad is desired for the feast, lob
ster can be arranged to look best.
When the salad has been prepared af t
erthe ordinary method,' it should be
piled in tiers, with first a row of sliced
cucumbers, then a row of salad, until a
pyramid is complete. Pieces of the lob
ster, slices of beet root and slices of
hard boiled eggs are used as a garnish.
A generous supply of fruit for one
end of the table and of nuts for the
other should not be omitted. Placed in
high dishes, the nuts and fruit must be
arranged to look as picturesque as pos.
sible. ETHEL. KNOX.
The Wedding Cake.
Wedding cake boxes are in any de
sign which the bride is pleased to or
der, if she gives the instructions long
enough in advance. At present, how
ever, there is a tasteful preference for
severe shapes, with dependence upon
the beet materials for distinction.
Heavy "white water color" papers
are the proper sort for the covering of
boxes, on the tops or sides of which
the monoerrams, usually of both bride
and bridegroom, are blended in relief,
either in white or in gold and silver.
Ribbons for tying the boxes are of
moire, taffeta or satin.
The bride's cake is exclusively the
bride's. Whatever the amount of cake
previously stored in boxes for the
guests to carry away as they pass out,
there is always an especially decorated
cake among the good things served to
the guests. It is intended frequently
that the bride herself shall cut this
cake in the presence of the guests, es
pecially her maids, who expect to find
in it a gold ring or some other article
portending the marriage within a year
of the finder.
A bride lately took high handed hold
of tradition and substituted a heart for
the ring of our foremothers' supersti
tion, i
To 'Whites tha Skim.
Mix one wlneglassful of fresh sprain
ed lemon Juice, ten drops of rosewater
atad half a pint of distilled or elder
flower water. Keep it well corked and
apply every night after washing. Let
the wash dry and. If using it for your
face, rub in a little cold cream after
applying.
ODD TREATMENT OF
WINTER HAT BRIM.
A striking winter hat is a lovely
soft flop of fine felt with undulating
brim and dented crown threaded with
delicate vieux rose velvet, the brim
raised off the head at the left aid by
trails of shaded red clematis.
The round, flat shape carried out la
gray camel's hair, caught up with, tur
quoise blue velvet and fancy wings, the
brim lightly trimmed with lace, the ex
treme edge with mink, la a handsome
model.
A black velvet hat dips well toward
the face and has a couple of fancy
wings at the side, the brim being bor-
dered with shaped frilllngs of white
glace covered with black chiffon. These
and the cloth volants on the same plan
are distinctive novelties of the season's
millinery, and another feature in milli
nery modes is exemplified in a fawn
cloth toque with a double brim, the ap
erture filled in with china silk, the up
per brim edged with ecru insertion. In
a mink hat the new flat shape is sim
ply draped with cream lace spotted
with black, caught up with a pasts
buckle, for fur and lace are to be great
ly worn all the season through.
A Smart Black Gor.
A notion that bears the impress of
elegant motif is a soft black gown of
cashmere l'inde, eolienne crape or mus
lin cloth trimmed with coarse ocher
colored lace, the lace carried in long
lines from throat to feet and down the
back of leeves, slightly puffed at the
wrist. Behind the lace is placed a lin
ing of white taffeta. The best beloved
lace in this deep tint is composed of a
sort of drawn thread embroidery.
There is a perfect rage for this on th
continent, where entire gowns are cre
ated of it mounted over white taffeta
slips. What supreme heights of dain
tiness cannot the needle attain nowa
days! Truly it is a craft of most cun
ning capabilities, one that enables us
to individualize, specialize and general
ly excel.
Brown, Fawn and Tnroaoise.
A smart gown is of brown panne
cloth, with trimmings of perforated
and embroidered cloth In a deep fawn
tint laid over turquoise blue. The vest
is of turquoise faille, with floral Inser
tion lace and the belt of the deepest
brown velvet. This model can be cop
ied in other colorings or if in black can
be trimmed with coarse black lace or
guipure laid over turquoise blue silk.
SWING
BREAKFAST.
Fruit.
Rolls and Butter.
Minced Mutton.
Creamed Potatoes.
Compote ot Prune.
Coffee.
COMPOTE OF PRUNES. Take half a pint ft
French plums or prunes, a quarter of a pint ol
water, a quarter of a pint of wine, the rind of
half a lemon, two cloves, two ounces of loal
sugar. Put in a stewpan the prunes, water, wine,
the thinly pared rind of half a lemon, the rlorrs
and sugur. Let all simmer very gently until the
fruit is quite tender. Let it get cold; then take
out the cloves and lemon rind and add a few dia
mond shaped pieces ot angelica. It is then rtady
for use.
LUNCHEON OR TEA.
Fruit.
Marbled Meat.
Crackers with Anchovy Pasta.
Corn Bread and Buttar.
Lemon Tarts.
Tea.
MARBLED MEAT. Take a well grown chicken
and cut all the meat from the bones. Cover s
small beef tongus with cold water and boil two
hours. Skin it and slice thin. Chop a pound of
bacon with two hard boiled eggs. Grease a mold,
cover the bottom with a layer of chicken, then a
layer of bacon and eggs, then a sprinkle of pars
ley, ground cloves, finely minced onion, tben
more of the ingredients until all is uaed. Cover
and press down; stand in boiling water thre
hours. When done, stand to cooL Turn eut aad
slic
DINNER.
Consomme Royal.
Roast Turkey.
Cranberry Sauca,
Stewed Corn.
Sliced Tomatoes.
Baked Mashed Potatoes.
Boiled Onions with Cream Sauca
Pumpkin Pic.
Ice Cream.
Cheesa. Coffee. Crackers.
CONSOMME ROYAL. Scrape and chop up half
a pound of beef. Clean and cut small a carrot, a
turnip and an onion. Have three pints of nicely
flavored stock which has been allowed to grow
cold and from which all fat has been carefully re
moved. Place stock, meat and vegetables in s
copper stewpan, atir all together over the fire till
just at the boiling point, then take out the whisk
and let the soup boil up until it is clear. Take a
clean, thick cloth, pour boiling water through it
and place over a soup stand or large basin. Pour
the contents of tha pan gently on the cloth, let it
run through slowly twice, place in a clean stew
pan and add nice seasoning of pepper and salt;
if necessary, color slightly. Hare some custard
ready for ths aoup, cut ft Into small square, sat
in tli tureen sad poui tlx boiling soup arse.

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