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IC ate I jB ti dg e t of fe e, J$oruense & Fashion THANKS to the new styles, we do riot see any more large waists; at least they are not large in appearance, which is the main thing. Women dress reformers may rave all they like, a large waist is neither pretty nor graceful in the mod ern costume. But the effect of slenderness is given by contrast, for the cape collars are so wide and the skirts and sleeves so full that about the only snug thing is the waist line. For my part, I rather like this ample, flowing style. You take a Woman, unless she be very perfectly Bhe made the turban herself. proportioned, incase her in a sheath like garment and behold the result. Every defect stands out large hips, thick waist line, round shoulders, etc. Put this same woman into something fluffy and notice the difference. A loose hanging holero gives a straight look to the back and a small effect to the waist line, which it throws into shadow, the lack of proportion of the lower half of the body is skillfully con cealed by the pretty, soft folds of the Bkirt, and, altogether, we have a charming effect. I think about the most unbecoming style, the most ungainly, was the straight seven gored skirt with two Inverted plaits (which kept opening) in the back. The next was the skirt with a single circular flounce headed by a band of trimming. In contrast to these mark the pretty, fluffily trimmed skirts we are now wearing. Shaped hip yokes bring out the beauties of perfect fig ures, while tuckings, shirrings and bandings conceal the angularities of de fective ones. Some women are much too narrow through the shoulders for their waist lines and hips. They have what is called disrespectfully a "bottle" figure. For these women the cape effect, as frilly as possible, is an absolute neces sity, and yet they are the very ones, you will notice, who have their shoul der seams cut too short and their arm Beams pulling in at the back. They are fond, too, of pointed and shaped effects which accentuate their lack of shoul der breadth. "Oh, Wnd Some Power" "Wouldn't it be funny if some people saw themselves as others see them? Now and then you meet a woman who is really clever at understanding her best points. She sticks to certain colors which ore very becoming and does not allow herself to be tempted by oth ers Just for the sake of a change or because they happen to be the fashion. And this is the rare creature who can fix over her gowns and trim her hats so that they will not look homemade and "tacky." the girl herself A hoMy consultation. Sometimes, indeed. eaves the creations of her dressmaker from being utter failures. Wait till I tell you. A friend of mine had a gray veiling gown trimmed with grape applique primly done in taffeta. The waist was designed bolero fashion and neatly bound with an embroidered braid. The Bleeves, three-quarter length, revealed tight cuffs of lace, and the long tabs of the loose jacket hung in straight points three o- four inches below the waist line. She hated the dress and would never wear it, for it gave her Bisch a "woodeny" figure. Well, one day she lost patience and deliberately cut those front tails off. Then she rounded them and slashed the sides into rounded points to reveal a full blousing of chiffon underneath. Next she trimmed all the edges with inch wide taffeta ruching and put clusters of this wherever the design would al low, and by way of a finishing touch she fastened three little rosettes on the left side of the bolero. One was pale violet, the other a deep shade of violet, the third a pale blue. Around the top of the collar there were a couple of folds of pale blue. The gown is now as dainty and as up to date as any one could wish. After all, it is the little touches which count. I know of one girl who evolved what was apparently a Paris creation by trimming a plain costume w ith me dallions of checked ribbon bound to the cloth by means of fancy stitching. And another took a very ordinary piece of straight lace banding and hand painted it so marvelously in oriental colorings that it became a thing of beauty, especially when set in between two narrow bands of deep tobacco brown velvet. The Three-quarter Coat. There is nothing in the world so useful and at the same time so becom ing as the three-quarter length coat of cloth, either gray, cafe au lait or black lined with white satin and edged down the fronts with a frill of yellow lace, which also forms frills in the wide cuffs. This is a hundred times more rich than silk and does not wear half so shabbily. One I saw which was just on this order was of gray cloth having rounded ripple fronts of gray squirrel and lace. The cape collar was also of the gray squirrel, as well as the wide cuffs over the lace wrist ruffles. This coat could b used both evening and " jj Sj EL Civ 9 afternoon and could be combined with any dress imaginable. The girl who wants a general utility hat and yet at the same time a chic and becoming one will buy a three cor nered shape or else make herself one by bending a French sailor, and she will have it of very fluffy French beaver trimmed with tiny gilt tassels and gold cord. An ermine toque and an ermine stole are things of beauty which make one's entire costume look rich. They need not be very expensive, especially if you do what a clever woman friend of mine did. She had a husband who took an nual hunting trips through the wilds of Canada, and he managed to procure a dozen little ermine skins, which he brought home to her-at a much smaller cost than she would have paid here. Well, she bought a good frame and made the turban herself, using the brim of ermine and a crown of crushed white camellias. Then she joined the other skins together with bands of lace oddly disposed and lined the whole with white satin. The effect was not at all amateurish and was quite rich in fact. But, whether it i3 ermine or white pussy cat, you can pick up at sales wonderfully smart little stoles for very little because the fashion in furs per mits of short neckties almost of fur, provided they are made in flat style and trimmed in a fancy way. A Chic Costnme. Oh, and I want to tell you, as we are approaching spring, you won't make a mistake if you plan for yourself or make, if you are clever enough, a beau tiful little gown of heavy white china This double breasted jacket is broadtail fur, with collar and cuffs chinchilla. silk trimmed with silk embroidery. This sort of dress is going to be much worn during the coming season. I am simply wild over the new little hand bags which come long and nar row, with linings of pale moire and two little pockets, one for the cardcase and the other for the pocketbook, both, of course, matching the leather and general style of the outside. The beau ty of these purse bags is that so much can be tucked away in them a hand kerchief, theaer tickets, a powder puff, a rouge paw (begging your pardon for mentioning it), a tiny mirror and what not. So that after a hasty consultation with one's wrist bag one can emerge almost as good as new. It seems almost criminal to force people to do things, doesn't it? It usu ally results in taking away all their own origi nality, will pow er and resource fulness. You see that very often in the case of a brainy woman who has mar ried a rather slow and unen terprising hus band. Her very cleverness and "go - ahead ativeness" spoil him utterly. And I am thinking, too, of the case of a girl I know, a She even sang at a musi cals. sweetly attractive young thing from the sunny south. She came here to New York with a wonderful voice, so every one said, and the prom ise of a wealthy woman philanthro pist to provide the money for the ed ucation of the said voice. Well, for Ia ?S i - m ''.viP : - ; -At I - - Vry: r-'-vi i :v:, : -fry i JULIA WARD HOWE AND THREE GENERATIONS OF DESCENDANTS. Here Is a picture as interesting as that well known one of Queen "Victoria and her children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren. The venerable lady in this picture is a queen, too, a queen of literature and of those who labor for the advancement of the human race. She is Julia Ward Howe, author, lecturer and for more than half a century advocate of emancipation for her own sex. She is here shown holding in her arms her great-grandchild, Julia Ward Howe Hall. No doubt she is glad the little one is a girl to continue the line of intel lectual women from whom the child is descended. Julia Ward Howe's daugh ter, Mrs. Florence Howe Hall, the baby's grandmother, is herself a, writer and speaker of note. The young man who is standing is Mr. Henry M. Hall, Florence Howe Hall's son and Julia Ward Howe's grandson. The venerable lady is eighty-four, and she knew Margaret Fuller and Emerson and Longfellow fa miliarly. Her mind is strong and brilliant as ever. She has retained its youth fulness by keeping it at intellectual work. She is president of the Authors' club of Boston and has also been active for many years in a- leading New England woman suffrage club. LAT6 WINTBR AOP6S IN FURS Zf 7 - S L of of yUA A t '-A ' illlilml-- -' W) xlW' A'' .. r Tn? superb tiger skin coat is trimmed with sable, which fur accentuates a few months lessons and practicing waxed fast and furious; she even sang at a musicale and made many influen tial friends. These petted her and praised her, too; took her to see all tbe good plays, the art galleries, the con certs in a word, anything which could improve her. They installed her in a comfortable private family, where she was treated like Dresden china, and what happened? She dawdled and dawdled and wasted her time dream ing. Three or four times a week one of these untiring and true friends would run to see whether the little girl was feeling lonely and to rouse her up and give her some new ambition; to help her on with some new induce ment. She would take her to this and that manager, to this and that school of opera when she was far enough ad vanced in her studies. All was to be made easy for her. Now, wouldn't you think that girl couldn't help succeeding? Not a bit of it!. She dawdled and dawdled and slept and ate and wasted her golden opportunity." By, midwinter sne didn't i 8 HER even have a piano to practice on. but she and Mrs. X. had gone to look at one all inlaid with yellow wood which she would buy on the monthly pay ment plan as soon as she had collected enough to pay the first installment. And what happened? Why, suddenly the rich benefactress who was financ ing the girl asked for reports, and the result was so unsatisfactory that she refused to go on, and the girl was sent back to her folks in Alabama, Now, was it because she didn't have it in her, or was it because she was helped too much? Tell me that. New York. In the prisons of Great Britain nei ther male nor female convicts are per mitted to see a mirror during the pe riod of their incarceration. 1 ' Some imertcan Women S'cuiptors IN the United States women sculp tors begin to be heard from. Sev eral of them receive important cemmissions and are able to main tain themselves and hold their places against all competitors. That there are so few is probably owing to the difficulties in the way of acquiring the sculptor's art in the first place and afterward making it pay commercially. Modeling in clay is more difficult than painting. A girl must be strong enoush to lift moderately heavy weights, to stand upon ladders and elevated plat forms, to keep her hands for hours in the cold, wet clay she makes her im ages of and to consent tf be covered oftentimes from head to foot with white dust and clay marks. Then there is unfortunately still considerable me diasval masculine prejudice to be over come. Nevertheless, if a girl sculptor really loves her art better than she loves all else, loves it so well that she would rather work with chilled hands and clay covered apron in a garret than live in luxury and 3o anything else, that girl will succeed. "These light afflic tions are but for a moment." If she is not willing to endure whatever comes in the shape of hardship, and endure it cheerfully, then she should let sculp ture alone. The adopting by women of a trade or profession, too often with inadequate preparation,- then pursuing it in a half hearted, dabbling way, look ing around to see how the world ap plauds them, has put back a full cen tury the real progress of w oman in the industrial world. Therefore are Americans proud of the few strong and enthusiastic women sculptors who have taken hold of clay modeling and succeeded. The progress the sex has made in sculpture is marked by the increased number of orders to execute work for the tawny yellow spots of the tiger skin. the St. Louis fair. A few women were represented in the staff decorations at the Pan-American exposition of three years ago. More women than the or dinary chronicler can keep track of are engaged in modeling various kinds of decorative work for the Louisiana Pur chase exposition. Among them may be mentioned Enid Yandell, Elsie Ward, Janet Scudder, Evelyn Longman and Edith Barretto Stevens. The designs they execute are chiefly adornments for the colonnades, pillars of buildings and the open spaces of the fair grounds. Enid Yandell belongs to the well known Kentucky family of that name. She was born in Louisville. Her art education began in the Cincinnati Art school and ended in Paris, where she has exhibited in the salon. Miss Yan dell has had two important designs to work out for the St. Louis show. One of these is a portrait statue of Daniel Boone, one of the many which will adorn the approaches to the colon nades. Besides this, two statues of Victory sixteen feet high, one on each ol the restaurant buildings in the fair grounds, will represent her work. Miss Yandell was the sculptor of the Wom an's building of the World's fair at Chicago in 1S93. In looking over the record of women sculptors it is pleasant to take note of the fact that when women's clubs and organizations desire a monument in bronze or marble commemorative of person or event, with the graceful tact of their sex they usually give the com mission lor its execution to a woman. Thus when the Emma Willard association de sired a life size bust made of their grand old patron saint, Emma Willard. one of the first advocates of the higher educa tion of woman in America, they gave the order to Enid Yandell. The bust of Mrs. Willard. chisel Enid Yandell. ed in Carrara marble, is one of the fin est productions so far of the Kentucky young woman sculptor. The members of the W. C. T. U. of St. Louis decided a year or two ago to erect a fountain at the world's fair. With the same graceful tact displayed by the Emma Willard association, they ordered their fountain to be modeled by a woman, Miss Elsie Ward, formerly of Denver. Miss Ward, who executes this large piece, is a dark eyed lady not five feet high, with hair almost as long as she is. The little sculptor looks very young and childlike. She was born on a farm in Missouri and as far back as she can remember used to mold little pigs and other animals out of soft, warm clay. With this sealskin jacket are worn a cape collar, a stols and a hat of squir rel trimmed with miniver. Miss Janet Scudder, an Indiana girl 'vho also began her studies at the Cin cinnati Art school and landed by way of Paris in a studio in New York. Is makinar a portrait statue for the St. Louis exposition. Her specialty, next to poi trait busts and stfituer. is chil ircn. Of these she has moclelei some of the most exquisite fisurits and groups to be seen in America. Mis" Scudder is the one American woman who has had work purchased by the French gov ernment. Two medallion portraits done by her have been placed in the Luxem bourg gallery as samples of excellence in their lino. Another hardworking woman who is modeling some of the St. Louis decora tions is Miss Evelyn Longman, who likewise has her studio in New York. For a number of years Miss Longman has been Daniel C. French's chief as sistant. Miss Longman is a noted teacher of art as well as a sculptor. For some time she had charge of the modeling classes at the summer school of Lorado Taft of Chicag-o. One of the pediments to the main en trance of the Liberal Arts building at St. Louis is being- made by Miss Ste vens, another young woman sculptor of New York, Mr. Bitter, the director of exposition sculpture, saw photographs of some of her work and gave her an order at once. Boston has a gifted woman sculptor, Mrs. Theo Alice Ruggles Kitson, whose husband is Henry Hudson Kitson. Mrs. Kitson's genius seems at its best and greatest dealing with heroic sub jects and martial theme3. The Massa chusetts soldier monument in the Na tional park at Vicksburg is the work of Mrs. Kitson. Other figures of her modeling are to be seen at Washing ton. At the present time she is en gaged in modeling a battle memorial for the state of Iowa, LILLIAN GRAY, WW- p THE WISDOM OF THE GOSPEL OF GOOD HEALTH. AN inspiring present day saying is this: "A man is a ifailure unless he is a better man than his fa ther was." Quite true. It is equally true if we change the quotation slightly and say, "A woman is a failure unless she is physically a better woman than her mother was." The silly old time notion that it was rather vulgar and like a female of the lower classes to be robust and have good health is now happily passed away. The girl with the full, deep chest, the strong, flat back and square shoulders, the arms that can show muscles, the legs and feet that can achieve long, swinging strides and endure a walk of ten to twenty miles is now the grirl who is proudest of herself and the one who js admired and envied. Good health is striven for almost equally with wealth, and the road to it is conceded to be by way of plenty of air, exercise, sunlight and water. S. M. Jones, the "Golden Rule" mayor of Toledo, has lately given expression to an invaluable idea in regard to the best method of getting physical exer cise. Mayor Jones, who is fifty-seven years old and is proud of being able to stand upon his head, besides thanking God he has "a head to stand on," be lieves no physical exercise is so good as that which is taken in the shape of some useful work. He has thought the matter over carefully, besides experi menting with his theories, and that is his conclusion. The most beautiful women the world has ever known and the most nearly perfect physically were those of the ancient Greek race. Their splendid health and beauty were gained in ac tive exercise outdoors. The athletic, open air games in which Greek men engaged were adapted also to the use of the women. Besides that, noble Greek ladies held it ever honorable to spin and weave and dye the exquisite ly tinted cloths of those days. Thus they got plenty of exercise in "pro ductive employment." Ladies now may not spin and weave, but there is an abundance of productive employment still. Besides the classic occupation of housework, there are gardening, dairy ing, beekeeping, farming in all its phases and the rearing of improved live stock. Any of these occupations even a millionaire lady might engage in with perfect propriety and to the great im provement of her health. She would know that while she grew strong and acquired a fine, joyous physique she would also be "ministering to human needs," as Mayor Jones calls it. The American nation will fail of its mission unless it develops a race as beautiful and as nearly perfect phys ically as the ancient Greeks were and a race having, besides, the large modern brain the average Greek of neither sex possessed. If we compare the head of an American woman today with that of the female Greek statue we shall find the head of our lady to be consid erably larger proportionally than that of the exquisite marble. The female brain is undoubtedly growing larger. Let us have bodies to match. Such bodies cannot be grown without perfect health to begin. For this splen did, royal health let us all strive. Pure air, deep breathing, floods of sunlight, cleanliness of the skin, proper diet these have been dinned into us till we know them better than some of us know the Ten Commandments. Let us now lay hold of them. There is one other factor of good health not sufficiently taken account o by hygienic writers, and that is the in fluence of the mind on the body. Any woman, young or old, can acquire the good health habit in time, but she must first fix her thought on it as the one goal above all to be attained before she can accomplish anything else worth while. Let a woman make up her mind she is going to grow into perfect health. Then let her call to her help all tha natural hygienic aids mentioned and utilize them. After that let her forget all about her bad health, especially her evil symptoms, and go on and work and be merry, maintaining a cheerful mind always. Many a chronic ailment may, thus in time be outgrown. MARY GOULD LYTLE. LADY CURZON AS A DETECTIVE. There is a curious story with dra matic side lights going the rounds about Lady Curzon, the American vice reine of India. It is told by a retired Indian judge and is a leaf from his own experience. He was dining at the vice regal lodge one" night when the conversation turned upon a sensational murder trial that he was conducting at the time. After dinner Lady Curzon drew the judse aside and said: "1 do not want to interfere with your judicial duties, but I know as an abso lute fact that the man who is charged with that murder is innocent. "If you will send a detective to me tomorrow morning I will direct him to the house where the real murderer is now hiding. 1 only discoverd the fact this afternoon when Iwas down there in disguise with one of our syces." Sure enough, the murderer was caught, as Lady Curzon had said, and the innocent man was released. Lady Curzon would not tell how ehs found out the murderer. THE QUEEN'S FAVORITE TEAPOT, Queen Alexandra has a favorite tea pot of which she is very fond and which is in frequent use at Sand ring-4 rel of ham. It is in the shape of a barrel wine with a stout old Dutchman sit ting astride. His cap serves for a lid, and a gold tap lets out the cheerins beverage. There is a little story about her majesty which if not true is at any rate new. A lady asked Princess Maud when she was still quite a little girl if it was true that the queen once boxed the ears of a boy whom she saw ill treating a dog. "No," said Princess Maud, "it. is not true, but I am sur mamma would like to have done TITLED VEGETARIANS. Society, say the pessimists, has reach ed an extreme of luxury which can only be paralleled by comparison with Roma under the Caesars. But those who fear for the future of a society whose rich est class is so extravagant may tak comfort in the fact that vegetariarism is steadily spreading among very wealthy people. Baron and Baroness de Meyer eat no meat. They live prin cipally on vegetables and fruit. Tha same may be said of the dowager Lady Ormonde, Lady Gwendolen Herbert anij Lady. Windsor,