TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 7, 1905.
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Fashions Seen at Noted Parisian
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PARIS, Sept. 23. I wonder
whether you have ever been
to La Perouse? If you know
your Paris well you certainly
have taken dinner or luncheon at this
historic old restaurant on the Qua! des
Grande Augustlns, near the Pont Neuf.
Like all the old established cafes of
the gay capital, La Perouse has its his
tory. Mme. Pompadour and Louis XV.
re said to have dined there incognito.
Today this establishment can boast of
a clientele not to be met in any other
rival house. Situated near the L'Ecole
des Beaux Arts, the student who has
the good fortune to become a Prix de
Rome generally celebrates this great
event at La Perouse. Famous paint
ers, musicians and sculptors, many of
them dead and gone and others old
and gray, have with the blush of youth
stammered out there their tho.r.ks for
flattering toasts on the eve of their
departure for the Villa Medici in the
Kternal City. At La Perouse every
thing is simple and plain. There are
no tables covered with flowers. As to
the noley band, if you were -to hint at
the absence of such a thing the pro
prietor would look at you in surprise
and tell you that he thought you pre
ferred to eat your dinner in peace, and
before the second course is served you
will agree with him, when It dawns
upon you that music would distract at
tention from the masterpieces of culi
nary art set before you, and you lift
up your voice in thanksgiving that the
world holds chefs and mattress d'hotel
like those at La Perouse.
When lunching there the other day
the peace of the restaurant was dis
turbed by the entrance of a party of
mart society women and their train of
male attendants. They hurried over
their luncheon, and the stranger, catch
ing sight of the ladies' opera glasses,
wonders for what playhouse the ele
gant crowd is bent. The true Parisian
knows what is in the wind and that
they are on their way to one of the
nearby law courts to attend a sensa
tional trial.
All of the mondalnes were exquisite
ly gowned It was not their clothes to
which one was first attracted, but to
the new figure all seemed to have ac
quired. Upon a search for information
In authoritative quarters I discovered
that the Langtry corset, which all
smart women are beginning to adopt,
was responsible for the revolution. A
Rue de la Paix corsetiere explained
that there wa nothing new about these
corsets, as they were cut on the
model originated and always worn by
the famous beauty, the Jersey Lily.
This model does not give the straight
front effect, but rather defines the waist
perfectly and is worn tightly laced, it
has a high bust and long abdominal
length. It is this corset, and this style
of figure that will again be in fashion
this winter. 4.H the new bodices are
made with fitted foundations having
many seams and carefully boned, but
the material draped over this lining
must fit every curve. Shoulder effects
are broad, but the excessive fullness
brought about by shirring and tuck
ing of fabrics across the chest and at
the waist line is de mode. The smart
est waists, except the separate blouse,
are worn outside the skirt and finish
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HOSTESSES who are fond of
giving original little din
ners through the winter are
now on the lookout for quaint
and pretty conceits in decorations and
menu. Now, if ever, is the time for
thinking of things Japanese. If a pro
spective entertainer Is Interested in the
mikado's country she cannot do bet
ter than invite her guests to dinner and
decorate the table a la Japonaise.
Many women are lucky enough to
possess Japanese small sliver, some of
which is very lovely. Among other
things which add to the attractiveness
of an oriental decoration are little salt
cellars in the shape of lotus flowers,
with saltapoons taking the form of
petals. Others Imitate chrysanthe
mums, having spoons with leaf shaped
bowls. Exquisite bonbon dishes come
In the snape of maple leaves with tiny
frogs or beetles perched on the ends.
Then there are lamp stands in the
shape of lotus flowers, with Japanese
shades that are stunning. Indeed, one
can entirely furnish a table with ar
ticles symbolic of the Land of the Ris
ing Sun. The owner of treasures ot
this description is ideally equipped to
give a Japanese dinner party, more
especially if she Is the proud possessor
of a Nankin dinner service. Even
should these enviable things be denied
her, a trip to an oriental shop, a clev
erly laid out plan and skillful, busy
fingers will produce wonderfully effec
tive results.
The Japanese cherry blossom, with
Its delicate pink petals, is well known
and often used ornamentally, but a
dinner scheme of decoration carried
out with these flowers and their color
ing as the main idea is both effective
and uncommon. Everything used must
of course be in keeping and should be
of a light and delicate texture. The
table center, which Is an Important
feature, Is of Japanese gauze of the
palest pink imaginable. On this cloth
is painted a border of cherry blossoms.
If this centerpiece Is too difficult to
procure, an excellent substitute may be
found in plain pink gauze or chiffon put
on in billowy folds. Little fans are in
troduced here and there in the filmy
fabric to form a border. On a pinch
crape paper could be employed for this
purpose, either white, with a design
over it of cherry blossoms, or pale pink
decorated with paper fans.
To come back to the original propo
sition th painted gauze centerpiece
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with a bias fold of satin or velvet. 1
They are pointed in front, if the figure
can stand it. In other words, the sil
houette to be aimed at Is a round, well
defined waist, high bust and small
hips. If these sartorial requisites are
observed much license is allowed as to
whether one wears a long or short coat
and plain or plaited skirt.
There is a secret, known only to a
favored few here at the capital, that
one of the leading Parisian houses in
tends to bring out a model of a severe
ly cut princess gown with a perfectly
tight fitting sleeve, admitting only of a
comfortable fullness at the top of the
arm. This mode will In all probability
be adopted y many fair Parislennes
who are proud of their good lines, and
certainly no style can show a pretty
figure to better advantage than a cor
rectly cut princess robe.
To revert to the subject of sleeve,
they do not droop anywhere, not even
at the cuff, and when decorated in
puffs, tucks or shirring are closely fit
ted to the arm. It is an absurd fash
ion, but elbow sleeves will be worn all
winter on coats and gowns that are
not intended for actual everyday serv
ice. Paquin is insisting' upon the three
quarter length of manche, than which
none is more awkward or unbecoming
to the arm.
Umbrella skirts made with a number
of gores shaped almost to a point at
the waist line are accepted models of
the season. These cloth jupes have
their seamE stitched twice and pressed
flat. When made of thin material the
gores are often put together with lace
or ribbon. There is no doubt about the
popularity of the circular skirt, and
although the all round plaited effect is
no more, groups of plaits and plaits on
seams starting from the waist or from
a deep yoke are still smart. Whatever
the skirt decoration used there must be
a closo, tight effect about the hips and
a great flare at the foot line. This
is modishly imperative. None of the
new skirts is lined, and they depend for
their proper hang and froufrou at tho
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Japanese Table Decoration
For an Oriental Dinner
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Hlfr TABIS BECOBATBP IN JAPAKB8E STYLE 0g "SSlSilBittSI
it should be oblong in shape and
spread on the table perfectly flat. From
the centerpiece run the palest pink
gauze ribbons, each terminating at the
place of a guest with a rosette or bow
holding a small spray of imitation
cherry blossoms. The ribbons run also
to the four corners of the table and
fall over the edge In a cascade of bows
and cherry blossoms. This decoration
calls for a square table, but could be
changed to suit a round board.
In the middle of the table is placed a
basket shaped like the Japanese lotus
flower. This can be made to order at
any basTcet making place, or If one Is
skillful in using raffia a dainty basket
can be made at home. It is white with
pale pink at the tips of the petals. The
support for the basket is in the shape
of a lotus leaf and colored green, or
fashioned in green raffia if of home
manufacture. Fill the basket with
sprays of cherry blossoms, keeping the
arrangement as low as possible, for
there is nothing more annoying at a
dinner party than to be hidden from
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bottom upon the silk petticoat worn
under them.
Skirts, as a rule, are severely plain,
evening jupes even conforming to this
mandate. When trimmed at all ti.e or
namentation is confined to the foot
line and takes the form of cut out ap
plications of cloth of a harmonizing or
contrasting tone under the skirt ma
terial, which is cut away to show the
design. This adornment is much smart
er than braiding, but the latter is much
employed.
As to the materials that go into the
making of the winter gown, broad
cloth of the idealized soft and pliable
finish which has been brought to per
fection by the manufacturers is still
the favorite for dressier suits. It
comes in all the new shades, exquisite
tones of plum, deep rich purples and
charming greens, toping from hunter's
to an olive, and a light shade of covert
which.;-, bids fair to be very exclusive
ind stunning. Gray covert 'lotii. a
shade beloved of Englishwomen, a
clear, stone gray, is also a fasnlonahle
color in cloth for coat and skirt frocks.
The new berringboe suitings are
stunning, especially those in gray
tones. Voiles are still in high favor in
both heavy and light meshes, and mo
hairs have taken a renewed lease, of
life for shirt waist suits. Although
changeable effects in cloth are not in
first fashion there will be seen lots of
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the view of the guest opposite. It Is
such a bar to general conversation,
which adds not a little to the success
of an affair of this kind. If preferred,
two smaller lotus baskets may be used
instead of the larger one. ,
The candle shades are made of Jap
anese paper with quaint figures. They
open somewhat in the manner of lit
tle umbrellas, only the ribs are bent
downward instead of standing straight
out. These shades are less common
than the ordinary pink one and give
besides a delightful oriental effect. If
you have candlesticks or candelabra
of Japanese design, so much the better,
but barring these a couple of two
branched sticks with a center recep
tacle for a bunch of posies is quite ef
fective. The flowers, it goes without
saying, will be cherry blossoms.
Little basket work dishes in the same
straw design as the centerpiece or
shaped like maple leaves hole the alm
onds, candled ginger, etc. They are
placed at intervals with cherry blos
soms scattered around them.
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Resorts
two toned combinations carried out in
cloth of one color and trimmed with a
lighter or darker shade of the same
material. In the Bois promenade late
ly I have noticed two distinct styles of
coat the very long basque charmingly
cut to form almost a shapely tunic
over the skirt and a coat with an ex
ceptionally short basque. No medium
length jackets were to be seen, but all
fitted the figure closely, ajuste. Pretty
PARISIAN AUTUMN HATS.
dainty cravats are worn with the tailor
mades under embroidered collars. Tiny
taffeta bows, three or four, according
to the height of the neck of graduated
shades of the same color, are arranged
one above the other and set closely to
gether beneath the chin.
Calling not long ago upon a convales-
The menu cards are decorated with a
design, either in cherry blossoms or in
lotus flowers. All through this scheme
it will be found that the brown stems
of the blossom form a delightful con
trast to the pale coloring of the flow
ers. If the fan decoration is used the
place cards should be tiny Japanese
fans, the guest's name written in gilt
letters. If ther fans are not used as
decorations they may be introduced
hero and there among the flowers, pro-
fi Lotus Lamp Stanb A
V WITH eJAPANE 3E SHAPE V
ducing a very novel and pretty effect.
Place a few artificial cherry blossoms
in the finger bowls. They are suffi
ciently like the real flowers toprovi
effective.
i my
cent friend of mine, I came intc pos
session of one of the quaintest conceits
of the day the wearing again of the
time honored nightcap. But our grand
mothers would not recognize this ad
junct under its latter day elegance.
True the name of nightcap is not used
in connection with this headdress, and
my attractive little invalid dubbed the
lovely confection that crowned her
pretty head a dejeuner, or boudoir cap.
There is no denying that the charm of
this cap when made of hook muslin,
the mob crown set with a soft frill of
cream colored Valenciennes lace and
tied round with a soft silk scarf, is de
cidedly fetching. To receive in bed
during convalescence, these caps are
not only pretty, but practical and far
more in harmony with the surround
ings than the elaborate coiffure so fre
quently indulged in nowadays by fas
tidious women under the most trying
conditions. Not even our grandmoth
ers with their much vaunted superiority
would have the heart to condemn our
dainty rendering of their homely and
certainly disfiguring specimen of night
ly headgear.
For street wear this season the hats
must match the gown if the wearer is
I to be considered at all smart, but for
I evening the black hat, usually in vel
i vet, is having another day of revived
glory. As to colors, one has only to
study the shades of the fashionable
clothes to be posted. The chief favorites
promise to be the various tints of
green, russet brown, heather and pur
ple, also a new shade of blue which is
something between a royal blue and a
violet. This new color is not especially
becoming either to blond or brunette.
In order to give a further oriental
touch to the dinner burn some sweet
smelling eastern pastille of not too
sfrong a perfume.
Any good cook will be able to ar
range .ices in the shape of a flower
realistic enough to call it on the menu
creme de cherry blossom or something
equally suggestive.
To help the unimaginative hostess in
selecting a menu the following hints
may be of service:
Cream of Rice Soup.
Fish a la Mikado. 0
Boiled Chicken, Cream Sauce.
Fillet of Beef.
Rice Croquettes. Peas.
Crab Salad.
Cherry Blossom Sherbet.
Ices. Rice Cakes.
Sake. Candied Ginger.
The fish to be really Japanese in ef
fect should be small and done to a
golden brown. Serve on a dish with
the heads toward the rim. Each fish
will bear in its mouth an open Jap
anese parasol about an inch in diame-
SB
ter. Slices of lemon are piled in the
center of the dish. The fish la seryed
with sauce piquanteC
With the salad are handed sand
wiches cut in the shape of a fish. The
fish being the sacred emblem of Ja
pan, it is well to have it in evidence
as often as possible. For the sake any
sweet white wine will do, but be sure
to serve it in small cups without han
dles. The cherry blossom sherbet is noth
ing" more than an ice over which is
poured a little maraschino. A tiny
cherr"y blossom is stuck In one side of
the ice, ELINOR HE WIT.
gggft lotus Salt-cellar gj
but it is new and I suppose will appear ;
extensively in winter millinery. The
greatest number of felt hats are being
wprn, and not alone plain felts, for
many of the models have beaver edges
two and three inches wide with plain
centers, while others show a velvet
center with the velvet applied to with
in several inches of the edge. In shapes
there is the flat crowned sailor with its
turned up brim, the small chapeau on
cavalier lines, and the plateaux that the
millinery artists love to manipulate into
all sorts of becoming forms. A fa
vorite way of disposing of the plateau
is to mount it on a high bandeau at the
back, giving it. a becoming tilt over the
face. The shape is then caught up high
in the back and left side and trimmed
with fluffy ostrich feathers, rising from
the bandeau, vhere they are fastened
with a large velvet bow. Many of the
creations shown have bandeaux pinned
in them so they may be changed easily
to the right position to suit the custo
mer. Small hats and hats of medium
size will accompany morning and se
verely tailored afternoon frocks, but
for dressier chapeaux large hats of all
shapes are the newest, the picturesque
Gainsborough being likely to take the
lead. Two stunning hats of this class
are to be seen at Virots. One is a large
white felt with a gray outer brim. A
trio of white ostrich tips fall over the
bandeau and rest lightly on the hair at
one side. The crown is softly draped
with two shades of gray velvet. The
second is a picture hat of flowered silk,
raised In the front with feathers and a
Gloire de Dijon rose.
The most reassuring thing about the
present fashions is that the best of
everything seems to find favor with
designers of modes. In accordance with
the wearers' pleasure, various degrees
of sumptuousness of dress will be ob -
served, with beautiful fabrics, glorious
colorings and 'costumes made with the
utmost simplicity. And therein will lie
their chic. CATHERINE TALBOT.
The Meaning of Different Colors.
Colors have a language of their own.
White, for instance, which is a reunion
of the seven primitive colors, is the
symbol of power, divine wisdom, purity,
candor, innocence and chastity. Red
represents Are. It is therefore symbolic
of passion, power and riches; hence
kings and the powerful rulers of the
earth wore red mantles. It is also em
blematic of hardness and cruelty, being
the color worn by the executioners of
old'and by the members of the Inquisi
tion. Blue denotes fidelity, sweetness, ten
derness, loyalty, a spotless reputation.
With the ancients yellow denoted glory
and fortune. Now it is called the color
of infidelity and shame. How is it that
yellow has become the emblem of infi
delity, perfidy and misfortune? Because
Jews were forced to wear yellow during
the middle ages and the house doors of
traitors were smeared with the yolk of
eggs.
Green is the color of hope and joy and
the emblem of youth. Btack denotes
sadness. Pink denotes health, youth,
pleasure, love. Violet is the color al
lowed to faith. Orange means divine
inspiration and poetry. The muses are
all represented clad in orange colored
draperies. Orange was also the color of
Hymen. Brides once wore orange col
ored veils called flammeum. and they
could not pronounce their vows unless
covered with the fiammeum.
Popular Embroideries.
Broderie anglaise, or eyelet embroid
ery, is still very much the thing, and
most of all over embroideries and
flouncings are of this order. The heavy
raised embroideries are also popular.
USEFUL KITCHEN UTENSILS.
Housekeeping is as much of a science
as any other profession, and the house
keeper who wishes to do her work eas
ily and well must have good tools. In
ventors have given considerable atten
tion to this fact, as is evidenced by the
many improvements offered for clean
ing and cooking by up to date house
furnishing shops and department stores.
Some of them are too complicated or
too expensive to be of much practical
value, but there are many which are
simple, inexpensive and of real worth
to us. We must of necessity confine
ourselves to kitchen utensils, and of
these there are five which are almost
indispensable to a good cook namely,
the casserole, braising pan, timbale
cups, sabatier and spatula.
A casserole resembles a shallow
saucepan, but is made of heavy, earth
enware, well glazed inside, and with a
cover of the same material. It can be
either used for the oven or the top of
the fire and is better known abroad
than in this country. Its Special virtue
is that it takes and retains heat better
and more evenly than thin metal sauce
pans. For oven use the cover is fas
tened on with a thick paste of flour and
water, which insures the retention of
flavor and moisture.
The braising pan is -designed for the
cooking of meat in a slow oven, a mov
able rack in the bottom keeping the
meat from contact with gravy or sauce,
while a slide at the end may be opened
when browning is necessary. Timbales
are a form of entree much .the vogue at
present, and the little timbale cups are
well made of heavy tin and just large
enough for individual service; they
may also be used for molding jellies
and blancmanges.
Nothing is more apt to ruffle the
temper of the cook than a dull knife,
and one of the best for kitchen use it
a sabatier, or, as it is more often called,
a cook's knife. It can be had in any
size from a three to ten inch blade. A
five inch blade sabatier will cost about
T5 cents, but it can be ground and, with
proper usage, will retain iis temper
until worn down to the hilt. The re
maining utensil in our list is called by
I artists a palette knife, by druggist a
! spatula and by some housekeepers a
i bowl knife. It has a round ended, very
flexible blade, without cutting edge,
which will remove the last bit of cake
batter from a bowl or turn an obstinate
omelet better than any spoon or other
utensil we have yet met with.
The Wash Boiler.
One often hears complaints that the
wash boiler rusts and iron molds the
clothes. This may be easily prevented
by rubbing the boiler, directly it is
emptied and while still warm, with any
good household soap. Give it a good
coating of soap, for the soap will not
only prevent rust, but will help to make
the suds when the boiler is filled for the
next washing day.
A Smart Y xc Coat
GRAY squirrel is tcjfc fashionable
this winter, and fhe coat illus
trated is one of the latest mode;
carried out in this pelt. It has a short
basque skirt. The loose front is es
specially smart out with square revert
falling back to reveal an undervest 8
soft toned gray cloth finished with
fancy galloon.
The deep swiss belt is of gray satin,
and the coat is finished at the throat
and waist with large smoked pearl but
tons. How Sto?ks Are Mad.
When you see a range of pretty stocks
and collars in the shops you seldom
trouble to think how they are made, and
yet hours and days of research amid old
patterns herald their coming. The work
bestowed upon them is considerable.
The old open patterns that the genera
tion before the last spent so much trou
ble in cutting out and sewing round
again figure on many cravatte ends and
on many collars, and the lace designs of
today are carefully chosen and artistic
to a fault. Whether hand wrought or
machine made, the beauty of the de
signs assert themselves. The turn down
linen collars find great favor under the
name of Ethel Barrymore, but they need
good necks. Turn back cuffs are also
worn, but they have the drawback that
they are closely allied to those affected
by our parlor maids. Some of these are
most daintily embroidered, however,
and the yokes to fill in the round necked
bodices are particularly tempting. The
smart turn down collars in Swiss mus
lin are embroidered in the finest stlch
ery. Invisible Nets.
Invisible nets are much worn. They
keep the hair neat and trim and do
away with the necessity of wearing
veils to a great extent. To give the
best effect they must be worn loose, not
stretched tight.
Sew Bloune DeBisns.
Broderie anglaise is shown with the
new blouse designs, and hand embroid
ered blouses and blouse patterns are
everywhere. "
Recipes For October
BLACK BEAN SOUP. Wash one
pint of black beans, cover with
quart of cold water and let them
soak overnight. In the morning pour
off the water, replacing it with three
pints of fresh water and cook (cov
ered) until the beans are tender. This
will take four or five hours. The last
hour add a tablespoonful of salt. Rub
through a strainer, add the strained
beans to the water in which they were
boiled and return to the soup kettle.
Melt one tablespoonful of butter and
two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir into
the hot soup and let it boll, stirring
constantly and adding a little pepper.
Slice two hard boiled eggs and one
lemon. Put all Into the tureen and
pour the soup over them. Serve very
hot.
Beef Olives. Cut one and a half
pounds of beefsteak very thin, trim
off the fat edges, then cut the steak
into strips three inches wide and five
inches long. Mix together one cupful
of stale breadcrumbs, one tablespoon
ful of chopped parsley, half a teaspoon
ful of sweet marjoiam, half a tea
spoonful of salt and a little pepper and
moisten with melted butter. Put a
layer of this mixture on each strip of
meat, roll it up and tie, then roll in
flour and fry In salt pork fat. When
brown lift them into a stewpan, adJ
flour and stir vigorously. Then add
boiling water until the right consist
ency and stir constantly until boiling.
Strain this over the meat, cover the
pan closely and let it simmer about
one hour and a half.
Clam Mousse. Scrub thoroughly
three dozen hard shelled clams, then
rinse and put them in a kettle with
two cups of cold water. Cover and
cook until the shells open. Remove the
clams and strain the liquor through two
thicknesses of cheesecloth. Cool, then
pour into the freezer and freeze to a
mush. Add one and a half cupfuls of
whipped cream, season with pepper
and celery salt and freeze five min
utes, longer. This is a delicious en
tree. Oyster Sauce. Melt two ounces of
butter into a saucepan and add a heap
ing teaspoonful of flour stirred Into a
smooth paste. Mix it in with less than
a half pint of milk and the liquor from
a dozen oysters. Let the sauce boll
for a few minutes, stirring all the time.
I Beard the oysters and put them into
J the sauce, adding a little salt and pep
per. Keep the sauce hot, but do not al
low it to boil again.
Improving: Stmrch.
When making boiled starch add to it
a small quantity of gum arable (previ
ously dissolved) and salt. Clothes
starched with this will not stick to th
iron.