The Topeka state journal. [volume], November 18, 1905, LAST EDITION, Image 10

About The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980

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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 18, 1905.
KATE
CLYDE
Calls Attention to Some Mis
takes Which Most Women
Make With Regard to Their
Clothes A Shrewd Plan
Looking to Economy -:- -:-
T Is the greatest mistake in the I
world to skimp on your street
M toilet. Cheap broadcloth and cheap
tailoring are never satisfactory.
The longer you wear them the worse
they look, and, after all, you are seen
n the street more than you are in the
evening, so it seems to me that if any
costume is slighted it ought not to be
the daytime one.
And some women economize on the
treet hat. They buy a best hat, which
Is gorgeous with plumes, but to wear
She joint a bridge clans.
With their tailor made any little shape
1b good enough. Worse still with a
colored tailor made, they will wear a
black and white hat guaranteed to "do"
With everything (and consequently to
look well with nothing).
That is a great mistake. If you want
to buy a black and white hat wear It
with a black tailor made or a gray one.
But if you have a blue costume get a
blue hat and don't think of wearing
anything else with a purple costume
but a purple hat. Thus you will al
ways give the impression of being well
dressed.
And speaking of purple suits, I saw a
very smart one the other day. The ma
terial was cloth. The three-quarter
length jacket was made close fitting,
with the coat tails rounding. There was
an inner vest of white cloth, trimmed
with two rows of tiny buttons, and over
this was buttoned a band of the violet
cloth some six inches in width. A flat
collar band of dark velvet completed
this very chic model. With it was worn
velvet hat trimmed with half a dozen
different shades of roses, ranging from
pale pink to royal purple.
Another very chic Btreet dress was of
black cloth, with wide cuffs and revers
of deep red silk. With this was worn
one of those funny, very much turned
up shapes, the back of which was en
tirely filled with red roses, while a big
black aigret on the side gave an air of
chic to the whole.
Now these toilets were not expensive
by any means. They were only chosen
with taste and everything matched.
If women only realized what It means
to have everything match there would
be fewer freaks seen on the streets.
Velvet Suits.
I want to say another thing about
the season's tailor mades; they are
showing a variety of velvet suits in
the shop windows at very low prices.
But I say: Don't invest In a ready
made velvet suit unless you have the
money to buy a rather expensive one.
The cheap ones may look very well at
first, but they soon grow to be, oh so
shabby! And please don't buy a vel
vet suit at all unless you have left over
from last year a very good cloth coat
and skirt. There is nothing so awful
as a fine velvet suit worn in the morn
ing or for shopping expeditions, and
yet you see that sort of crime cora
mited by people who ought to know bet
ter. Year by year the price of lace and
fancy waists increases until now wo
men pay quite a little fortune for two
or three waists to wear with their tailor
made suits, or with an odd white cloth
or voile skirt, which is so useful for
theater wear.
A recent importation was shown to
me the other day. It was made with
out any lining except one of mousseline
de soie. The material was fine dotted
net, and It was literally covered with
applications of
heavy guipure
lace, which
formed the long
shouldered yoke
and were scat
tered down the
front in varying
motifs. The
sleeves, of
course, were el
bow length. All
the smart
blouses now are
made that way,
and I'm sorry
really spend anything except for ab
solute necessities, so what am I to do?
Just go on vegetating, I suppose, as I
am doing now and keep it up indefi
nitely!" And there are hundreds of women like
her.
The woman with a little money has a
better time of it. She takes up French
lessons, she rides horseback or Joins a
bridge class, or even takes facial mas
sage to fill her mornings. In a word,
she does something to stimulate her in
terest in life and raise her above the
level of those women whose sole en
joyment consists in walking down the
street arid looking into the shop win
dows. I think it Is a great mistake on a
man's part not to let his wife (if he
Is in moderate circumstances) do some
thing with the talents she has. No wo
man can be unhappy who has some
talent to console her and to make dull,
dark days pass more quickly. The un
happy women are those who don't know
how to do anything but have a good
time, or who don't care to do anything
else.
If they filled their lives with some
outside interest they would not have
time to be bored or miserable.
BLACK CHEVIOT SUIT.
The coat and skirt suit illustrated is of a new weave ot '. ot. The
double breasted coat fastens with bone buttons and the collar la inset with
velvet revers. The three-quarter sleeves have bands of velvet as a finish.
has bad
that's all.
Very
arms;
few
"What a lot of dresses waists of china
you have'." silk are to be
worn this win
ter and a great many will be seen of
batiste, because, thanks to the separate
china silk lining slips, these dainty and
becoming waists may be worn all win
ter. If I were a woman with leisure to
sew I should buy some good batiste in
a dot or some other small figure, pur
chase two or three pieces of German
Valenciennes lace, together with a dozen
medallions of different kinds (mostly of
coarse lace) and I should set to work
to make myself three of these batiste
waists, because they cost fabulous sums
in the shops, and they are very pretty
and practical.
The phrase "Satan finds "work for idle
hands to do" certainly applies to mar
ried women above all others. One-half
the divorces you hear about today
might have been avoided if the women
in the case had not been so bored with
life in the first place.
The average city woman's Ufe is
deadly dull, because unlike the woman
in the country she has no large house
to look after, consequently there is al
ways lots of time on her hands.
"There are only two ways of enjoy
ing life," one such woman said to me,
"making money and spending it. Now,
my husband won't let me make any, and
our means are so restricted that I can't
Cheap Dresses.
"What a lot of dresses you have," I
exclaimed In surprise as I gazed at the
row of pink, blue, green and violet and
white dresses all in a row In the bed
room closet of a friend.
"Oh, they are not real dresses!" she
retorted. "Not real gowns that I could
wear out at people's houses. They are
just what I call home dinner frocks!"
She took down a dainty green muslin,
trimmed with a few rows of valen
clennes. The neck was cut round and
the sleeves were the merest baby puffs.
"This little gown," she went on, "cost
me just $4, counting the yard of silk
which made the high girdle. You see
there is no lining in any of these. I
wear them over a plain white princess
slip I had a dressmaker fit for me. They
are all made with medium round necks
and short sleeves and wide girdles to
match. The waists are sewed to the
skirts, and they button down the back,
so there Is no chance for anything to
slip or come out of place. Now here is
one a trifle more expensive. This ma
teral was 30 cents a yard, and the whole
thing came to $5."
She took down from its hanger a
dainty gown of pale blue mull, made
with a shirred effect and little plain
squares of the material embroidered
by her with forgetmenots. It was cer
tainly dainty. The pink gown was of
cotton voile, picked up at a sale, and it
was trimmed with small taffeta bows of
the same color.
The white gown was of dotted mus
lin, also bought at a late summer sale.
It had a round bertha of frilled net and
a pale blue taffeta belt.
Not one of the gowns cost more than
$5. but all were dainty and artistic.
"I wear a different color every night
for dinner when John comes home," the
little woman went on. "Men do appre
ciate pretty colors and fresh dresses!
It really makes the dinner taste bet
ter." And I agree with her. If there Is
anything which depresses a man it Is
to come home to a wife who has not
taken the trouble to brush her hair or
change her gown.
Really it is one of those things which
don't cost much and which count a
great deal.
Musical Hysteria.
Now that the musical season has be
gun I suppose we shall have some more
fine instances of woman's hysterical
worship of gen
ius. To me there
is nothing more
pitiful than the
sight of an au
dience of wo
men at a piano
or violin recital
given by cer
tain artists.
Watch the ex
pressions on
those faces;
watch the utter
sway of emo
tions and the
lack of self
control as later
on they crowd
around the plat-
"Efen they hat tried to form, and you
kees met" will understand
why woman
must progress a great deal before she
is fit to undertake serious things in this
world.
"Ach, these American women!"
groaned a well known pianist. "Some
times haf I had to fight my way to
my carriage efen they haf tried to
kees me!"
Sad, my friends, but, alas, too true!
New Tork.
THE FANCY FUR COAT
A FAD OF THE WINTER.
Fancy fur coats, although extrava
gant novelties, are a fad of the winter.
The model illustrated is an effective
blouse coat carried out in chinchilla
and ermine. The accompanying hat li
extremely chic. It is of soft gray felt.
the brim being tilted at tne oacs.
BARON ROTHSCHILD'S GOLDEN
RULES.
The formula for success in life which
the late Baron Alphonse Rothschild
laid down for the young men of France
and distributed by means of printed
cards was: Shun liquor. Dare to go
forward. Never be discouraged. Be
polite to everybody. Employ your
time well. Never tell business lies.
Pay your debts promptly. Be prompt
in everything. Bear all troubles pa
tiently. Do not reckon upon chances.
Make no useless acquaintances. Be
brave in the struggle of life. Maintain
your Integrity as a sacred thing. Never
appear to be something more than you
are. Take time to consider, then de
cide positively. Carefully examine
every detail of your business.
OSTRICH PLUMES.
Apropos of the vexed question of
wearing feathers plucked from living
birds in hats it is comforting to know
that the wearer of long ostrich feathers
need have no qualms on the subject.
The larger and more valuable feathers
which are in the wings and tail of the
bird are carefully cut off with scissors,
and the ends are left in the skin till
i they drop out. These plumes are worth
from $3 to $15 each in good condition,
so an ostrich may yield $350 worth of
feathers at every cropping.
where it is widest. It Is worn well for
ward. The crown is of chinchilla, and
at the side is a pouf of ostrich feathers
with a gray paradise plume. The ban
deau is adorned with pouflngs of pale
gray maline.
THE WOMEN'S LYCEUM CLUB.
The Lyceum club is filling a really
great want among working women in
London, and a debt of gratitude is al
ready due from them to Miss Smedley,
its originator, and, to a certain extent,
its proprietress. The house, 128 Pic
cadilly, Is magnificent, and the ar
rangements throughout are comfortable
even to luxury. The meals are well
cooked, are daintily served and are
most moderate in price. There are
three pieces for luncheon and dinner,
so that, to use a homely simile, mem
bers "can cut their coats according to
the cloth." The eighteen cent luncheon
of a helping from a joint and vege
tables Is a good, wholesome meal. There
is a weekly house dinner on Saturdays,
when some interesting men or women
are guests and when the tickets are 75
cents. So much are these appreciated
that only early application can secure
them.
Successful Women In
The Business World
EVERYTHING Mrs. Alice He
fan Rice takes hold of seems
to succeed authorship, matri
mony and business enterprises
that have at length culminated in the
establishment by her, in connection
with her husband and several other
persons, of a national bank. The capi
tal for the basis of this bank comes
out of the earnings of "Mrs. Wiggs."
"Lovey Mary" and "Sandy," together
with the royalties derived from the
dramatized versions of the stories.
The money coined from Mrs. Rice's
gifted brain in the past five years is
said to be not less than $250,000, quite
enough to start a bank on. She clings
loyally to her childhood home in Louis
ville, and there the new bank begins its
career.
It is a striking feature of the time
that so many hundreds of women, mar
ried and single, of the best social
standing are engaging actively in busi
ness. Princess Victoria, daughter of
the king and queen of England, con
ducts a cattery for business and pleas
ure. She rears and sells Persian kit
tens, green eyed, blue eyed and chin-
ji '
MRS. GEORGE GOULD AND KEH DAUGHTER ELITH.
Mrs. Edith Kingdon Gould, former stage beauty and popular actress, has
from the material po'nt of view all that a cue n could possess. Her sincerest
latlsfactlon she no doubt finds with her children, particularly the youngest,
Edith, now four years old. Edith was born in m.uauramtt on her father's
yacht. The summer of her birth was spent by the Georg. Goulds cruising along
flje New England coast. Mrs. George Gould has six ch ldr n, three t oys and
Ihree girt" Kingdon. Jay. Marjorie. Helen Vivien, George J., Jr, and Edith
Catherine.
chilla colored. They bring anywhere
from $25 to $100 apiece.
In the United States thousands of
our princesses engage in commercial
enterprises and have their social posi
tion actually enhanced thereby, for
they show themselves possessed of that
quality which the American adores
clear grit. Portland, Ore., has to
use slang a "bunch" of most suc
cessful business women. There is the
Steers-Coman agency. Miss Lois
Steers and Miss Wynn Coman are con
ducting a booking office for touring
concert stars in the west. They let the
east alone, but occupy the territory
from Utah northward and westward.
Before forming the partnership with
Miss Steers, Miss Coman was attached
to the editorial staff of a magazine.
Miss Steers on her own account had
toured several prominent musicians,
among them the singers Nordica, Sem
brich, Schumann-Heinck, Gadskl and
Lillian Blauvelt and the pianist Josef
Hofmann.
The present season the Steers-Coman
firm are managing Mme. Calve over
not only their own territory, but for all
the Pacific coast district. When they
have in charge a star so brilliant as
Calve both young ladies travel with her
throughout her. journey in order to
have her entirely comfortable. Miss
Coman is sure that, other things being
equal, a woman has a better chance
than a man in conducting the profes
sional tours of musical celebrities.
Mrs. Edith Tozier Weathered lives in
Portland. She began her career as a
writer on one of the Portland newspa
pers. Appointed in 1894 as delegate
from her city to the annual meeting of
the International League of Press
Clubs, she bore an invitation to the
league to meet in Portland for the next
convention. She delivered the invita
tion in a speech that pleased and Im
pressed all who heard it. Its keynote
was loyalty toward and exploitation of
the great northwestern Pacific slope.
She showed herself to be familiar with
the magnificent resources, agricultural,
mineral and commercial, of all the re
gion west of the Rockies from north
ern California to British Columbia.
It was no surprise at all to anybody
who had ever heard this charming
young woman speak when she began
to be appointed one of the commission
ers from Oregon to various large ex
positions, beginning with the Pan
American in 1901. There she was so
active and useful that It was quite
natural she should be officially em
ployed to help prepare the Oregon ex
hibit for St. Louis In 1904. Before the
St. Louis exposition closed Mrs. Weath
ered was busy with preparation for the
Lewis and Clark celebration in her own
city. We may well believe Edith
Tozier Weathered did her full share
toward the brilliant success of the big
northwestern show.
Remarkable as an Illustration of the
American woman's clear grit is the
story of Frances E. Fits, a Medford
(Mass.) girl. Young, refined, well edu
cated, thoroughly up in stenography
and typewriting, likewise bookkeeping,
she went to Colorado about the time
the Klondike fever was at Its height.
Everybody talked gold and the fabu
lous fortunes of the frozen north. Miss
F:tz went to Cape Nome.
She could do many things well, and
her pleasant, womanly manner made a
way for her. Stenographers were
scarce as angels almost, that is at
Nome six years ago, and Miss Fitz
found work at once at five times the
pay she could get in the States. She
was appointed deputy United States
recorder for Council City, Alaska. She
kept her eyes open, and her official po
sition enabled her to become acquainted
with mining claims. She invested cau
tiously in some of these on her own
account, selling them again as she had
opportunity. She continued buying
and selling till she was well acquainted
with the region around Nome.
Besides serving as recorder and op
erating In mining claims, Miss Fitz was
editor and publisher of the Council City
newspaper. She herself did much of
the work on it. Best of all, she was
ADVICE TO A BUNCH
OF UNHAPPY LOVERS.
Bmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
MISS COMAN, CONCERT MAN
AGER. constantly gaining knowledge of the
management of large business inter
ests. Finally she invested most of her
means in mining claims on Ophir creek.
She selected them in person. Then she
came back to Seattle and organized a
mining company to work the claims.
In New York city Mrs. Josefa Os
borne, working in woman's most an
cient field of employment, earns an in
come of $10,000 a year as dressmaker,
costume designer and fashion writer.
In New York also lives and works
Miss Zaida Ben Yusuf, a noted photog
rapher. Few men in America or In the
world earn so much money at pho
tography as Zaida Ben Yusuf does.
She is of oriental origin, though thor
oughly American. She began as an
amateur photographer, but drifted into
the professional current. She earns
not less than $10,000 a year.
Miss Annie Roberts of Boston is a
wholesale coal dealer and one of the
most prosperous fn New England.
Finally, there is Mrs. Theodosla
Beacham, builder of railroads, of Suf
folk, Va. Mrs. Beacham takes con
tracts for the construction of railroads.
Sometimes these contracts foot up sev
eral hundred thousand dollars, yet Mrs.
Beacham makes close estimates and is
never left. On one of her large con
tracts she cleared $75,000 in a year.
LILLIAN GRAY.
YES, the love editor will try to
soothe the wounded spirits of
those who have written to her
concerning their heart troubles! Of
these there are ten women and one
man. That is about the proportion of
women to men among people having
love troubles. To begin:
Bossie Stupid wishes to know
whether she is obliged to return the
diamond engagement ring that her
sweetheart gave her, now that the en
gagement is broken off. Oh, no, Bos
sie! Never give up anything valuable
that you have once got a grip on. May
be you will be engaged three or four
times more before you are really mar
ried. Now, if each lover gives you a
diamond betrothal ring and if each en
gagement lasts for some time and the
man gives you various other trinkets
before you part, don't you see that in
the course of time you will have quite a
brilliant collection of rings and other
jewels? If you are as wise as I take
you to be you will gently steer your
various lovers' presents in the direction
of brooches, ring?, bracelets and other
gemmed gewgaws, looking to the stor
ing of your jewel case.
Cyllie Softhead's lover has left her
and is paying attention to another girl
now, although he has been "keeping
company" with Cyllie for a year. Cyl
lie Is sure her heart is broken forever.
She cannot live without him, and she
fears she may even be tempted to com
mit suicide. Don't do it, dear! In
stead, get up early in the morning and
help your mother get the younger chil
dren ready for school. Scrub them and
curl their hair and see that their slates,
pencils and books are all there and aft
er they have gone set in and wash the
dishes. Do this every morning and
after that engage in other useful
household hustle all day.
Note particularly how your mother
and married sister have to humor and
wait on your father and brother-in-law,
finding their collar buttons and
fishing the soiled handkerchiefs out of
their pockets and watching them like a
hawk to see that they comb their back
hair properly and otherwise trotting
after them day in and day out. Just
take notice what plain, every day mat
rimony is, bald headed and flat footed.
If that doesn't cure you get another
sweetheart immediately.
Harry Tee's best girl went to the
theater with another, and Harry Is very
mad and wants to know what he shall
do about It. Go out and make a night
of it, Harry. Stay out all night and
whoop it up with the boys. Then in
the morning soak your head and get
to the office two hours late and be
glared at by the boss and told that
next time your business is ro important
as to keep you away two hours in the
morning it will fje important enough
to keep you away altogether. Then In
the evening go just as you are. red eyes,
tousled hair, the unutterable odor of
stale tobacco about you, to see your
girl. That's the way to get even.
Ah, a letter from Harry Tee's best
girl, Susie Sperrett. Susie says she
went out one evening with her cousin,
whom she had not seen in a year be
fore and Harry was cranky about it,
awfully. May she not accept an In
vitation from her cousin? she asks.
VIOLET CASHMERE FROCK.
The skirt of this frock is rather a complicated affair carried out with & yoke
and tablier of the cashmere. Pointed bands of oriental embroidery are applied
between tucked pieces of the material. The bolero jacket is edged with a fall
of lace, above which is a line of insertion that also outlines the sleeve cap. The
undersleeve Is composed of a series of cuffs and lace ruffles.
No, Susie. You are not yourself any
more, you know. You are Harry's
property, you belong to him. Your soul
Is not your own. You must not wish
a wish, or think a think, or even go to
the matinee with your girl chum with
out first asking Harry's permission.
Begin that way now and Harry Will
have no trouble to train you after you
are married.
To all the other girls: Read answers
to Bossie Stupid, Cyllie Softhead and
Susie Sperrett.
TABITHA SOURGRAPES.
CHARACTER FROM SHOE8.
A certain shoemaker is a firm be
liever in "shoeology." He says: "Worn
shoes go ahead of the art of fortune
telling form the lines of the hand In
this shoe, for instance, I see irresolution
changeableness, inclination to sloven '
liness and occasional fits of ill humor
"Show me any person's footgear after
two months' wear, and I will describe
the character of the person
-If the soles and heels are worn even
ly, then the wearer is a resolute, able
business man. with a clear head
trustworthy official or an excellent wife
and mother. If the sole is worn on the
outside the wearer is inclined to ad
venturous, uncertain, fitful deeds or
It a woman, to bold, ..if willed, capri
cious tricks. pn
"The sole being worn on the hmor
side shows hesitation and weakne-s Z
a man and modest)' la a worn.