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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 18, 1905.
KATE CLYDE Calls Attention to Some Mis takes Which Most Women Make With Regard to Their Clothes A Shrewd Plan Looking to Economy -:- -:- T Is the greatest mistake in the I world to skimp on your street M toilet. Cheap broadcloth and cheap tailoring are never satisfactory. The longer you wear them the worse they look, and, after all, you are seen n the street more than you are in the evening, so it seems to me that if any costume is slighted it ought not to be the daytime one. And some women economize on the treet hat. They buy a best hat, which Is gorgeous with plumes, but to wear She joint a bridge clans. With their tailor made any little shape 1b good enough. Worse still with a colored tailor made, they will wear a black and white hat guaranteed to "do" With everything (and consequently to look well with nothing). That is a great mistake. If you want to buy a black and white hat wear It with a black tailor made or a gray one. But if you have a blue costume get a blue hat and don't think of wearing anything else with a purple costume but a purple hat. Thus you will al ways give the impression of being well dressed. And speaking of purple suits, I saw a very smart one the other day. The ma terial was cloth. The three-quarter length jacket was made close fitting, with the coat tails rounding. There was an inner vest of white cloth, trimmed with two rows of tiny buttons, and over this was buttoned a band of the violet cloth some six inches in width. A flat collar band of dark velvet completed this very chic model. With it was worn velvet hat trimmed with half a dozen different shades of roses, ranging from pale pink to royal purple. Another very chic Btreet dress was of black cloth, with wide cuffs and revers of deep red silk. With this was worn one of those funny, very much turned up shapes, the back of which was en tirely filled with red roses, while a big black aigret on the side gave an air of chic to the whole. Now these toilets were not expensive by any means. They were only chosen with taste and everything matched. If women only realized what It means to have everything match there would be fewer freaks seen on the streets. Velvet Suits. I want to say another thing about the season's tailor mades; they are showing a variety of velvet suits in the shop windows at very low prices. But I say: Don't invest In a ready made velvet suit unless you have the money to buy a rather expensive one. The cheap ones may look very well at first, but they soon grow to be, oh so shabby! And please don't buy a vel vet suit at all unless you have left over from last year a very good cloth coat and skirt. There is nothing so awful as a fine velvet suit worn in the morn ing or for shopping expeditions, and yet you see that sort of crime cora mited by people who ought to know bet ter. Year by year the price of lace and fancy waists increases until now wo men pay quite a little fortune for two or three waists to wear with their tailor made suits, or with an odd white cloth or voile skirt, which is so useful for theater wear. A recent importation was shown to me the other day. It was made with out any lining except one of mousseline de soie. The material was fine dotted net, and It was literally covered with applications of heavy guipure lace, which formed the long shouldered yoke and were scat tered down the front in varying motifs. The sleeves, of course, were el bow length. All the smart blouses now are made that way, and I'm sorry really spend anything except for ab solute necessities, so what am I to do? Just go on vegetating, I suppose, as I am doing now and keep it up indefi nitely!" And there are hundreds of women like her. The woman with a little money has a better time of it. She takes up French lessons, she rides horseback or Joins a bridge class, or even takes facial mas sage to fill her mornings. In a word, she does something to stimulate her in terest in life and raise her above the level of those women whose sole en joyment consists in walking down the street arid looking into the shop win dows. I think it Is a great mistake on a man's part not to let his wife (if he Is in moderate circumstances) do some thing with the talents she has. No wo man can be unhappy who has some talent to console her and to make dull, dark days pass more quickly. The un happy women are those who don't know how to do anything but have a good time, or who don't care to do anything else. If they filled their lives with some outside interest they would not have time to be bored or miserable. BLACK CHEVIOT SUIT. The coat and skirt suit illustrated is of a new weave ot '. ot. The double breasted coat fastens with bone buttons and the collar la inset with velvet revers. The three-quarter sleeves have bands of velvet as a finish. has bad that's all. Very arms; few "What a lot of dresses waists of china you have'." silk are to be worn this win ter and a great many will be seen of batiste, because, thanks to the separate china silk lining slips, these dainty and becoming waists may be worn all win ter. If I were a woman with leisure to sew I should buy some good batiste in a dot or some other small figure, pur chase two or three pieces of German Valenciennes lace, together with a dozen medallions of different kinds (mostly of coarse lace) and I should set to work to make myself three of these batiste waists, because they cost fabulous sums in the shops, and they are very pretty and practical. The phrase "Satan finds "work for idle hands to do" certainly applies to mar ried women above all others. One-half the divorces you hear about today might have been avoided if the women in the case had not been so bored with life in the first place. The average city woman's Ufe is deadly dull, because unlike the woman in the country she has no large house to look after, consequently there is al ways lots of time on her hands. "There are only two ways of enjoy ing life," one such woman said to me, "making money and spending it. Now, my husband won't let me make any, and our means are so restricted that I can't Cheap Dresses. "What a lot of dresses you have," I exclaimed In surprise as I gazed at the row of pink, blue, green and violet and white dresses all in a row In the bed room closet of a friend. "Oh, they are not real dresses!" she retorted. "Not real gowns that I could wear out at people's houses. They are just what I call home dinner frocks!" She took down a dainty green muslin, trimmed with a few rows of valen clennes. The neck was cut round and the sleeves were the merest baby puffs. "This little gown," she went on, "cost me just $4, counting the yard of silk which made the high girdle. You see there is no lining in any of these. I wear them over a plain white princess slip I had a dressmaker fit for me. They are all made with medium round necks and short sleeves and wide girdles to match. The waists are sewed to the skirts, and they button down the back, so there Is no chance for anything to slip or come out of place. Now here is one a trifle more expensive. This ma teral was 30 cents a yard, and the whole thing came to $5." She took down from its hanger a dainty gown of pale blue mull, made with a shirred effect and little plain squares of the material embroidered by her with forgetmenots. It was cer tainly dainty. The pink gown was of cotton voile, picked up at a sale, and it was trimmed with small taffeta bows of the same color. The white gown was of dotted mus lin, also bought at a late summer sale. It had a round bertha of frilled net and a pale blue taffeta belt. Not one of the gowns cost more than $5. but all were dainty and artistic. "I wear a different color every night for dinner when John comes home," the little woman went on. "Men do appre ciate pretty colors and fresh dresses! It really makes the dinner taste bet ter." And I agree with her. If there Is anything which depresses a man it Is to come home to a wife who has not taken the trouble to brush her hair or change her gown. Really it is one of those things which don't cost much and which count a great deal. Musical Hysteria. Now that the musical season has be gun I suppose we shall have some more fine instances of woman's hysterical worship of gen ius. To me there is nothing more pitiful than the sight of an au dience of wo men at a piano or violin recital given by cer tain artists. Watch the ex pressions on those faces; watch the utter sway of emo tions and the lack of self control as later on they crowd around the plat- "Efen they hat tried to form, and you kees met" will understand why woman must progress a great deal before she is fit to undertake serious things in this world. "Ach, these American women!" groaned a well known pianist. "Some times haf I had to fight my way to my carriage efen they haf tried to kees me!" Sad, my friends, but, alas, too true! New Tork. THE FANCY FUR COAT A FAD OF THE WINTER. Fancy fur coats, although extrava gant novelties, are a fad of the winter. The model illustrated is an effective blouse coat carried out in chinchilla and ermine. The accompanying hat li extremely chic. It is of soft gray felt. the brim being tilted at tne oacs. BARON ROTHSCHILD'S GOLDEN RULES. The formula for success in life which the late Baron Alphonse Rothschild laid down for the young men of France and distributed by means of printed cards was: Shun liquor. Dare to go forward. Never be discouraged. Be polite to everybody. Employ your time well. Never tell business lies. Pay your debts promptly. Be prompt in everything. Bear all troubles pa tiently. Do not reckon upon chances. Make no useless acquaintances. Be brave in the struggle of life. Maintain your Integrity as a sacred thing. Never appear to be something more than you are. Take time to consider, then de cide positively. Carefully examine every detail of your business. OSTRICH PLUMES. Apropos of the vexed question of wearing feathers plucked from living birds in hats it is comforting to know that the wearer of long ostrich feathers need have no qualms on the subject. The larger and more valuable feathers which are in the wings and tail of the bird are carefully cut off with scissors, and the ends are left in the skin till i they drop out. These plumes are worth from $3 to $15 each in good condition, so an ostrich may yield $350 worth of feathers at every cropping. where it is widest. It Is worn well for ward. The crown is of chinchilla, and at the side is a pouf of ostrich feathers with a gray paradise plume. The ban deau is adorned with pouflngs of pale gray maline. THE WOMEN'S LYCEUM CLUB. The Lyceum club is filling a really great want among working women in London, and a debt of gratitude is al ready due from them to Miss Smedley, its originator, and, to a certain extent, its proprietress. The house, 128 Pic cadilly, Is magnificent, and the ar rangements throughout are comfortable even to luxury. The meals are well cooked, are daintily served and are most moderate in price. There are three pieces for luncheon and dinner, so that, to use a homely simile, mem bers "can cut their coats according to the cloth." The eighteen cent luncheon of a helping from a joint and vege tables Is a good, wholesome meal. There is a weekly house dinner on Saturdays, when some interesting men or women are guests and when the tickets are 75 cents. So much are these appreciated that only early application can secure them. Successful Women In The Business World EVERYTHING Mrs. Alice He fan Rice takes hold of seems to succeed authorship, matri mony and business enterprises that have at length culminated in the establishment by her, in connection with her husband and several other persons, of a national bank. The capi tal for the basis of this bank comes out of the earnings of "Mrs. Wiggs." "Lovey Mary" and "Sandy," together with the royalties derived from the dramatized versions of the stories. The money coined from Mrs. Rice's gifted brain in the past five years is said to be not less than $250,000, quite enough to start a bank on. She clings loyally to her childhood home in Louis ville, and there the new bank begins its career. It is a striking feature of the time that so many hundreds of women, mar ried and single, of the best social standing are engaging actively in busi ness. Princess Victoria, daughter of the king and queen of England, con ducts a cattery for business and pleas ure. She rears and sells Persian kit tens, green eyed, blue eyed and chin- ji ' MRS. GEORGE GOULD AND KEH DAUGHTER ELITH. Mrs. Edith Kingdon Gould, former stage beauty and popular actress, has from the material po'nt of view all that a cue n could possess. Her sincerest latlsfactlon she no doubt finds with her children, particularly the youngest, Edith, now four years old. Edith was born in m.uauramtt on her father's yacht. The summer of her birth was spent by the Georg. Goulds cruising along flje New England coast. Mrs. George Gould has six ch ldr n, three t oys and Ihree girt" Kingdon. Jay. Marjorie. Helen Vivien, George J., Jr, and Edith Catherine. chilla colored. They bring anywhere from $25 to $100 apiece. In the United States thousands of our princesses engage in commercial enterprises and have their social posi tion actually enhanced thereby, for they show themselves possessed of that quality which the American adores clear grit. Portland, Ore., has to use slang a "bunch" of most suc cessful business women. There is the Steers-Coman agency. Miss Lois Steers and Miss Wynn Coman are con ducting a booking office for touring concert stars in the west. They let the east alone, but occupy the territory from Utah northward and westward. Before forming the partnership with Miss Steers, Miss Coman was attached to the editorial staff of a magazine. Miss Steers on her own account had toured several prominent musicians, among them the singers Nordica, Sem brich, Schumann-Heinck, Gadskl and Lillian Blauvelt and the pianist Josef Hofmann. The present season the Steers-Coman firm are managing Mme. Calve over not only their own territory, but for all the Pacific coast district. When they have in charge a star so brilliant as Calve both young ladies travel with her throughout her. journey in order to have her entirely comfortable. Miss Coman is sure that, other things being equal, a woman has a better chance than a man in conducting the profes sional tours of musical celebrities. Mrs. Edith Tozier Weathered lives in Portland. She began her career as a writer on one of the Portland newspa pers. Appointed in 1894 as delegate from her city to the annual meeting of the International League of Press Clubs, she bore an invitation to the league to meet in Portland for the next convention. She delivered the invita tion in a speech that pleased and Im pressed all who heard it. Its keynote was loyalty toward and exploitation of the great northwestern Pacific slope. She showed herself to be familiar with the magnificent resources, agricultural, mineral and commercial, of all the re gion west of the Rockies from north ern California to British Columbia. It was no surprise at all to anybody who had ever heard this charming young woman speak when she began to be appointed one of the commission ers from Oregon to various large ex positions, beginning with the Pan American in 1901. There she was so active and useful that It was quite natural she should be officially em ployed to help prepare the Oregon ex hibit for St. Louis In 1904. Before the St. Louis exposition closed Mrs. Weath ered was busy with preparation for the Lewis and Clark celebration in her own city. We may well believe Edith Tozier Weathered did her full share toward the brilliant success of the big northwestern show. Remarkable as an Illustration of the American woman's clear grit is the story of Frances E. Fits, a Medford (Mass.) girl. Young, refined, well edu cated, thoroughly up in stenography and typewriting, likewise bookkeeping, she went to Colorado about the time the Klondike fever was at Its height. Everybody talked gold and the fabu lous fortunes of the frozen north. Miss F:tz went to Cape Nome. She could do many things well, and her pleasant, womanly manner made a way for her. Stenographers were scarce as angels almost, that is at Nome six years ago, and Miss Fitz found work at once at five times the pay she could get in the States. She was appointed deputy United States recorder for Council City, Alaska. She kept her eyes open, and her official po sition enabled her to become acquainted with mining claims. She invested cau tiously in some of these on her own account, selling them again as she had opportunity. She continued buying and selling till she was well acquainted with the region around Nome. Besides serving as recorder and op erating In mining claims, Miss Fitz was editor and publisher of the Council City newspaper. She herself did much of the work on it. Best of all, she was ADVICE TO A BUNCH OF UNHAPPY LOVERS. Bmmmmmmmmmmmmmm MISS COMAN, CONCERT MAN AGER. constantly gaining knowledge of the management of large business inter ests. Finally she invested most of her means in mining claims on Ophir creek. She selected them in person. Then she came back to Seattle and organized a mining company to work the claims. In New York city Mrs. Josefa Os borne, working in woman's most an cient field of employment, earns an in come of $10,000 a year as dressmaker, costume designer and fashion writer. In New York also lives and works Miss Zaida Ben Yusuf, a noted photog rapher. Few men in America or In the world earn so much money at pho tography as Zaida Ben Yusuf does. She is of oriental origin, though thor oughly American. She began as an amateur photographer, but drifted into the professional current. She earns not less than $10,000 a year. Miss Annie Roberts of Boston is a wholesale coal dealer and one of the most prosperous fn New England. Finally, there is Mrs. Theodosla Beacham, builder of railroads, of Suf folk, Va. Mrs. Beacham takes con tracts for the construction of railroads. Sometimes these contracts foot up sev eral hundred thousand dollars, yet Mrs. Beacham makes close estimates and is never left. On one of her large con tracts she cleared $75,000 in a year. LILLIAN GRAY. YES, the love editor will try to soothe the wounded spirits of those who have written to her concerning their heart troubles! Of these there are ten women and one man. That is about the proportion of women to men among people having love troubles. To begin: Bossie Stupid wishes to know whether she is obliged to return the diamond engagement ring that her sweetheart gave her, now that the en gagement is broken off. Oh, no, Bos sie! Never give up anything valuable that you have once got a grip on. May be you will be engaged three or four times more before you are really mar ried. Now, if each lover gives you a diamond betrothal ring and if each en gagement lasts for some time and the man gives you various other trinkets before you part, don't you see that in the course of time you will have quite a brilliant collection of rings and other jewels? If you are as wise as I take you to be you will gently steer your various lovers' presents in the direction of brooches, ring?, bracelets and other gemmed gewgaws, looking to the stor ing of your jewel case. Cyllie Softhead's lover has left her and is paying attention to another girl now, although he has been "keeping company" with Cyllie for a year. Cyl lie Is sure her heart is broken forever. She cannot live without him, and she fears she may even be tempted to com mit suicide. Don't do it, dear! In stead, get up early in the morning and help your mother get the younger chil dren ready for school. Scrub them and curl their hair and see that their slates, pencils and books are all there and aft er they have gone set in and wash the dishes. Do this every morning and after that engage in other useful household hustle all day. Note particularly how your mother and married sister have to humor and wait on your father and brother-in-law, finding their collar buttons and fishing the soiled handkerchiefs out of their pockets and watching them like a hawk to see that they comb their back hair properly and otherwise trotting after them day in and day out. Just take notice what plain, every day mat rimony is, bald headed and flat footed. If that doesn't cure you get another sweetheart immediately. Harry Tee's best girl went to the theater with another, and Harry Is very mad and wants to know what he shall do about It. Go out and make a night of it, Harry. Stay out all night and whoop it up with the boys. Then in the morning soak your head and get to the office two hours late and be glared at by the boss and told that next time your business is ro important as to keep you away two hours in the morning it will fje important enough to keep you away altogether. Then In the evening go just as you are. red eyes, tousled hair, the unutterable odor of stale tobacco about you, to see your girl. That's the way to get even. Ah, a letter from Harry Tee's best girl, Susie Sperrett. Susie says she went out one evening with her cousin, whom she had not seen in a year be fore and Harry was cranky about it, awfully. May she not accept an In vitation from her cousin? she asks. VIOLET CASHMERE FROCK. The skirt of this frock is rather a complicated affair carried out with & yoke and tablier of the cashmere. Pointed bands of oriental embroidery are applied between tucked pieces of the material. The bolero jacket is edged with a fall of lace, above which is a line of insertion that also outlines the sleeve cap. The undersleeve Is composed of a series of cuffs and lace ruffles. No, Susie. You are not yourself any more, you know. You are Harry's property, you belong to him. Your soul Is not your own. You must not wish a wish, or think a think, or even go to the matinee with your girl chum with out first asking Harry's permission. Begin that way now and Harry Will have no trouble to train you after you are married. To all the other girls: Read answers to Bossie Stupid, Cyllie Softhead and Susie Sperrett. TABITHA SOURGRAPES. CHARACTER FROM SHOE8. A certain shoemaker is a firm be liever in "shoeology." He says: "Worn shoes go ahead of the art of fortune telling form the lines of the hand In this shoe, for instance, I see irresolution changeableness, inclination to sloven ' liness and occasional fits of ill humor "Show me any person's footgear after two months' wear, and I will describe the character of the person -If the soles and heels are worn even ly, then the wearer is a resolute, able business man. with a clear head trustworthy official or an excellent wife and mother. If the sole is worn on the outside the wearer is inclined to ad venturous, uncertain, fitful deeds or It a woman, to bold, ..if willed, capri cious tricks. pn "The sole being worn on the hmor side shows hesitation and weakne-s Z a man and modest)' la a worn.