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THE TOPEKA DAILY STATE JOURNAL.
i tl H mtrViOnOlii hi i n 1 1 1 1 (YmYM u n i it I m 1 1 1 iy-Vy-v - .hw- - rr- sua j-- mm u Mmmt mm I ,. I El - - leScmo& WHILE In the earlier part of tbj season we were threatened with a retarn of the plain and severe tallormade for all purposes and for all sorts of occasions or so It was alleged time and the fashionable public hare proven that It is the dressier type of tal lormade that prevails after all. The two-piece costume, on which th? tailor relies most for effect. Is being grad ually but emphatically replaced by that which shows three parts to the costume; a coat, skirt and a fancy bodice of some sort or another. This Is right In line with the expressed favor displayed for a gown whose component parts shall all of them match the other; and while this mode will somewhat limit the woman with a slender dress allowance; nevertheless. It Is far more I- accordance with an artistic eu semble than was the vogue of the totally different and separate waist that has held Its own for so long. There Is simply no end to the elabora tion that appears on those smart costumes of broadcloth and velvet. Velveteen main tains a niche in fashionable favor that Is peculiarly and exclusively Its own; and many of the best designs that character ise the tallormades are reproduced In this modish fabric with delightful results. The short coat has reasserted Itself In all of the dressier designs; and tho;e to whom the long-coated patterns have not proven any too becoming cr.n welcome the fact that they are not by any means Imperatively essential to a modish appear ance this winter. Of course, the long-coat costume has much to recommend It, apart from Its place tn current fashion, but to the average woman the shorter designs will appeal far more convincingly How ever, Ilka so many other things In this delightfully varied season. It is a matter of paying your money and taking your made 4 7Zzz,czfztxaz2B arjy&izsvrJjLHJz choice. The one Is Just as modish as the other, after all Is said and done. The Parlsiennes are holding on mightily to the slight blouse effect In both long and short coats, for they realise fully well that there has never been anything half so flattering, not only to the Immature figure of the school girl, but to the adult of slender build likewise. Of course. It Is differently managed this season, for there must be something to mark the newer styles from their predecessors. Latest de velopments show a becoming fulness In front. Just drawn down easily into a celn ture, but there Is no pufflness, no bnggl ness, and the fulness Is so deftly handled that the outline of the figure Is revealed rather than concealed, the pleats or gath ers massing themselves directly In the center of the front, and a dart semblance either In fact or In effect appearing towards the side. The very full skirts that rule the newer modes are admirably balanced by the full sleeves. While there has been some talk of the abbreviated sleeve that so punctu ated the midsu ner and the between-sea-son fashions appearing also In the winter modes. It does not seem to have material ized. The new sleeves are all of them sensibly long ; and so marked Is this one feature that the presence of an abbreviated arm covering makes the very smartest creation seem to take on a semblance of the summer time; and although the mate rial, the design, the cut and tho trimming scheme may all of them be of tbe very latest conceit, the short sleeve will In evitably spoil It all. Strange how one's Inherent sense of the ntness of things will outrun all and any of fashion's decrees. It may as well be noted right here in connection with those delightfully full skirts that extenders of some one sort or another are no longer a theory to be dis cussed or a rumor to be flouted. They have arrived. Not the oldtime hoopsklrt by any means. A far more subtle effect Is the new one. it Is effected In the guise either of an Interlining In tallormades, or with reeds or featherbones In the drop skirt of the dressmaker ; but there It Is, and Its presence must be unmistakable If the mandates of the mode are to be complied with. It Is one of those things, that like a dress shield In tbe sleeve. Its presence Is never suspected, but Its ab sence proclaims Itself both visibly and loudly. But to return to the sleeves that we were discussing. While the long and droop ing shoulder Is no more seen in fact. It Is as effectually forgotten as though It had never existed the line In the new cut Is made rather a broad one. The shoulder Is built out over the sleeve top in the form of a cap, or rather it more hints at than really expresses this effect. The shoulders in all of the new designs have nn Interlining of haircloth to hold the front line unbroken ; and In this wise the rounded bust form that is indicative of the new figure is effected. Sleeves have most of the fulness massed at the top, and this Is a puffy rather than a draped fulness. Masses of material sag ging from shoulder to elbow are anything but desirable; In fact, drooping or sagging outlines are to be religiously avoided where the fashionable silhouette Is to be attained. There must be an upright, erect suggestion to the most modish of tallor mades; and coupled with this there must 1 3 an appreciable amount of velvet em ployed in the trimming where cloth is made the medium of the style. Braids, too, are prominent in all of the new models, and elaborate and Intricate designs are wrought In braid strands of varying width. Sometimes there Is rather more than a touch of gold or silver threads interwoven, or a narrow gold or silver soutache the very narrowest that comes Is employed to define the design. Where tbe braid describes lnrge whirls or circles little inserts of velvet are often- size, are richly embroidered, adding much to the richness of the whole. In the very best of the tallormades the skirts are comparatively untrimmed that is, when compared with the amount of elaboration that Is lavished upon tbe coat. The consciousness of an Irreproachable cut and hang is supposed to atone for the lack of trimming, and the full rich folds assuredly are more stately when allowed to He untrimmed. Managed so, there Is nothing to distract the eye trom the har mony of line that they are supposed to present. When the extreme of fashionable cut Is followed, that which employs some 8 or 10 yards of fulness at tl foot, some of the best tailors employ a bias footband, this with a stiffened interlining; and In this way the fulness at the foot shows no sign of sagging in with the weight of ma terial. Without some artificial stiffening, however, those very full skirts are bound to sag. Where velvet or velveteen makes the costume, many of the little bodices follow the guimpe pattern, a fad that commends Itself mightily to the ingeniously Inclined. Varying gulmpes will Bult the bodice to many occasions; and the fact that i - le Fashion beams benignly upon both of those fabrics the one as much as the other. If the truth be told will make a three-piece costume In either one suitable for pretty nearly all the social occasions that will arise during the season for a woman of moderate means. With the return of the severely plain tallormade wooltex costumes, the tailored shirtwaist Is again well to the front. The accepted styles for autumn wear display a severity of outline and a plainness of development that accords well with the mode. The plain shirt sleeve, with but a scant fullness at the top and ending In a stiff cuff fastened with links, is what the best makers are showing; and the collar may be either of the stiff lluen laundered variety, or a stock that is 'eU rour-in-nanu or eve i n Unix- Ascot, ronr-m-nana or eve, a times used; and those, when of sufficient I simple cross-over fashion THE CULT OF THE NEEDLE. PINE NEEDLEWORK THE EXTREME FAD IN ALL DE PARTMENTS OP DRESS. THE CULT of the needle has come Into an extreme vogue and all sorts and descriptions of things are con sidered of naught avail, to quote an old English phrase, unless they are obviously and patiently made by hand. The skilled needlewoman finds an Inning tn tbe present that she has waited for pa tiently, lo ! those many, many years. The present Is her hay time and harvest ; and that she Is taking a goodly cognizance of It Is evident In every turn and upon every hand. The shops display hand-made blouses that are really marvels of needlework. They and the lingerie frocks are responsi ble for the many sewing schools and classes that are springing up all over the country ; and competent teachers are at a premium, and a high one at that. One section of New York's most fashionable society has already engaged a sewing teacher for tbe coming lenten days. Classes are to be held three forenoons a week; and the subscription price is fixed at $60 for each member The classes meet at each other's bouses; and since there are absolutely no expenses to be Incurred, the teacher reaps all of the profits. When one considers that such classes are usually limited In ..umber, and that their duration la only for the lenten period, the seeming ly high price Is explained. Needlework Itself Is one of tbe most fashionable fads of tbe moment ; and the work basket Is restored to Its oldtime position as a drawing-room ornament. In deed, so many and various are the present needlework crazes that the old-time work tables, those of Colonial origin, with a series of four or six drawers, and a deep pockt't on either side, are among the choicest pieces In many a high-class fur niture store. In mahogany they fetch anywhere from $50 apiece ; while In woods of lesser degree a commodious one may be bad for a trine more than half that price. All of tbop dainty little accessories that crowd the counters of the smart shops r favored pieces for my lady's work table. " All ready to wear they command a I very high price, although the cost of tbe materials Involved Is but comparatively trifling. The prevailing craze for gulmpes and to a lesser degree, undersleevcs. Is delightfully carried out In frail and sheer hand-made pieces ; and the finest of hand kerchief linen, much hand embroidery, and a moiety of real lace -Cluny and Valenciennes ai the current craze -will bring up even last year's gown to the pitch of elaboration that this year's mode demands. Lut not content with embroidered and elaborated accessories, the cream of the current fashiou Is the all-embroidered gown. Those soft henriettas lend them selves beautifully to such expensive elabo rations, and the best bouses In Paris are turning out the daintiest examples of this fad, dainty enough to make any woman empty her purse and mortgage her dress allowance for mouths to come to secure an example. Instead of hemming the uounccs of din ner frocks the latest craze embroiders the edges, and the more Irregular and deeply Indented the design Is tbe lietter does It accord with the mode. The same em broidery appears In various guises upon the corsage, and the sleeves are made to accord with the embroideries so far as possible. That is, the half, sleeve, that distinguishes tbe dressy frock from Its more utilitarian relative. Is oftentimes merely a succession of circular flounces, ending at the elbow, with or wltbo.ut an embroidered enff. One charming model from Paris has the corsage arranged with a seeming guimpe of real Cluny lace. There la a circular bertha of the henrletta for this seem to be the favored background for such work upon which a wealth of stitcherles Is lavished, and tbe body part Is merely u series of overlapping pieces, each ooe em broidered eu suite. The sleeve displays a fun pun there Is usually some sort of stiffening upon the forearm lining- upon which the embroidery again appears. The skirt is cleverly managed In two sections; tbe upper one full and the lower one w 1 5 Elaborate Gowns of the Tailor Genre. Their Many Charms and Possibilities. fuiler. The top part Is embroidered all along its lower edge, then a deep and Irregular cntre-denx of real Cluny Is Intro duced, and the lower flounce of circular cut Is applied with the same embroidery. Anything more chnrinlng than this could not be imagined, and the wonder Is that with tbe prevailing craze for nil sorts of extravagant and expensive elaborations this mode was not suggested long ere now. Even upon the plainest of tallormades this same craze for needlework appears. There is usually a vest, narrow enough, to be sure, but still visible, and this is In velvet, with hand embroideries to accord with the color scheme of the gown, and occasionally there is a velvet toque en suite. Some Modish Embrolderii1.. Some, of tbe modish motifs In embroid eries are displayed tn these two pieces. The nasturtium, with Its remarkable range or brilliant colorings, tones In by the soft, dull green of the foliage, la one of tbe most favored designs, and Its presence be tokens one of the very latest productions The usual close stitches are followed, with Just a single thread of the darkest silk In the color scheme to outline the flower. The narcissus, with Its long and reed like leaves, is another new favorite; and the colorings In this, ranging from white through a deep cream to the fashionable yellows, make Is especially suitable for gownB of Lhe later mode For table decorations lace and em broideries are inextricably mingled, the beauties of the one supplementing and enhancing those oi the other. Bstten berrr lace for.ja the edge of a linen cen terpiece; and - rays of La France roses are wrought all around, both flowers and foliage lying about equally upou the linen and the lace. The gamut of pale pink shades that the natural flower dis plays Is followed In the embroidery, and loose leaves and petals are scattered at random Id tbe design. Parisian Ooneelt In Embroidered Henrietta. Hand embroideries and real laces are deemed none too good for this charming little borne toilette In an apricot yellow Henrietta. The true apricot coloring, that faint vellow that shows an elusive hint of pink In Its folds, distinguishes the soft fabric and tones In well with the yellow ish lace and the mahogany red of the velvet ribbon that Is deftly Introduced as a trimming accessory. The Malson Dou cet, of Paris, supply tbe model, and the best of Parisian taste in color and design nre amply illustrated. The corsage has collar and chemisette in real Cluny, the natural tone of tbe lace being maintained, and the collar Is banded with ribbon vel vet, which resolves Itself Into a cravat, am ber beads making for an odd and original fringing for the cravat ends. The bertha Is circular In cut, edged all around with hand embroideries and ruffled with Valen ciennes. The skirt Is In two pieces, a full top and still fuller flounce. Each dis plays the embroidery In the form of but tonholed scallops, and tbe real Cluny Is cleverly employed as entre-deux and shaped Into panel effects upon the skirt hem. Tbe drop or foundatlou skirt Is In a changeable yellow and pink taffetas, with 1 Paquln flounce (princess haircloth) In the hem. so that the full folds of tbe ten-yard skirt are adequately supported around the ankle and display no bint of limpness. The Mode in Velvet. That this Is pre-emlnently a season of color Is perh::ns emphasized In the velvet field more than elsewhere. Once upon a time black velvets led all the rest, but today It is the velvet of soft coloring that is smiled upon by fashion. A deep shade of bronze green chiffon velvet of lustrous surface Is exquisitely embroid ered In cream, pale yellow and a willow green In discreet touches upon the coat, while the skirt like most of the best models Is left unadorned. The perfec tion of cut and line is considered suf ficient trimming so far as skirts are con cerned this season. The coats la butlt somewhat after the Directolre mode, tbe semi-fitted fronts rolled back with revers to display the embroidered vest, and the back arranged with a postilion that Is fashionably full. The sleeve Is full throughout, ending at the wrist In an em broidered cuff. The skirt Is one of those full circular jupes, with a bias bond lined with haircloth ou the hem, some cording appearing ou both the bias aud the velvet ubove it. Short Coat Maintains Its Vorof. In spite of tbe number of long-coatec. suits that many exclusive bouses sre dis playing, the little short-cuatea design maintains all of Its vogue. The one shown is In a soft shade of chaudrou broadcloth, with velvet of a deeper tint. The coat is oue of those loose Eton af fairs, with- a flat open neck, edged with velvet, overlaid with Irish crochet. Plain velvet with Just a touch of copper em broidery forms - shallow vest In front, ana the edge of the loose coat Is dec orated with a design in velvet all around. The sleeve Is fashionably full throughout, with the tapering line below the eluc . that is so modish, and the cuff strapped with velvet aud having a finish of Irish crochet. The skirt has a closely utted top, darted over the hips; and a deep double box-pleated flounce la applied above the kuee, the upper skirt laid i fancy tabs, velvet trimmed, over the flounce. That new length In dressy skirts Is displayed, the front well touch ing the floor, and the sides and back lying for some four or more inches. A Tailor-made on Smart Lines. The severely tailored two-piece suit, which has for several seasons past been somewhat In the 'background. Its place having been taken by dressier modes, Sas this seusou come forward with ai. of its old popularity, and la being, received most enthusiastically. This model shows a double-breasted, iight-Dttlng Jacket of hip length, the collar and cults of which are inset with a golden brown velvet, the materiul being a brown and white broken check. The strapping on either side of the front covers a seam which extends from the middle of the shoulder line to the bottom of the Jacket, this seam serv ing to give a more perfect tit. This same strapping appears In two rows on the bottom of the plain skirt, which Is cut with a front panel and circular sides, the strappings also trimming the seams this panel. With such a cos'ume la worn oue of the many small and Jaunty hats of this season, which in tbis Instance 1 t plateau of gray French felt manipulated Into toque shape and trimmed in a most novel fashion with ribbon and wings. The Elaborate Tailor-made. The long-coated suit, is variously ex pressed this season, but there Is a certain unanimity on the part of the tailors that a rich broadcloth la the vest vehicle for their work. A soft shade of deep rose red, Just what one sees In a Jacqueminot rose. Is employed for this smart design, and there is Just a touch of velvet richly embroidered, that makes a suggestion of a vest edging. A taffeta passementerie Is used to border the open front all the way down, and the easy fulness of the top drops Into a smsrtly curved celnture. The coat skirts are applied with a pret tily shaped hip seam, deep pleats In the center front and back, making for a graceful fulness. The sleeve is a fo.. f igot model, tbe shoulder bulit out lo the orm of a cap. and the fulness tapering somewhat below the elbow drops Into a stiff cuff that rises well up from toe wrist-