The Topeka state journal. [volume], December 26, 1905, LAST EDITION, Image 8

About The Topeka state journal. [volume] (Topeka, Kansas) 1892-1980

Image provided by: Kansas State Historical Society; Topeka, KS

                
THE TOPEKA DAILY STATE JOURNAL.
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Tke liberie IW T; -X. , - '" IN
Winter Festivities Brin Out Gowns of Formal
Intent.
ft HE forma! functions that pnnctuate
jj the winter season brinjf to light many
of the most charming gowns toilettes
that are plainly of Parisian Inspiration, If
not altogether of Parisian origin.
Quite goodly quantity of material or
rather, to speak by the book of materials,
for several different ones go to the con
struction of any gown of this season that
aspires to be at ail considered in the
fashionable class will be required; aud
it takes a clever eye for effect to adjust
their proportions and regulate their lines
if the desired results are to be achieved.
The Parisian makers are wont to employ
what cn this side we once would have
considered quite unsuitable materials for
many purposes. One of the very latest
conceits has dancing frocks fashipned of
corduroy! It is corduroy, all right, and
beyond mistake: but it is the chiiTon cor
duroy, that of airy weight and glistening
texture, and is own twin to chiffou vel
vet, which is making such a furore for
itself this season, as last.
The dancing frock of corduroy is of the
palest yellow and be it noted that yel
low in all of its shades, from the palest
primrose down to a rich and deep manda
rin tint, is on the very crest of the fash
ionable wave. The bodice Is of double
chiQon, iu the same tint, with strappings
of the corduroy; and the decidedly small
sleeves are of the same ribbed velvet.
The skirt has its upper part of deeply
pleated cuuTon. the pleats overlapping
each other, and this extends to a tritle
below the knee line. Here a very deep
and fuit circular tiounce of corduroy Is
applied, its upper part cut into fantastic
scrolls, so that the line of application is
not a stiff nod straight oue, and so does
cot cut one's height in two, as might
otherwtse be the case. A rich hand em
broidery In yellow covers the joining
stitches throughout and makes for a
most delightful effect.
Chiffon is really the most essential fac
tor in ali of the new gowns, and, look as
ODe may for a smart evening gown, ll
cannot be found without this indispensa
ble item more or less conspicuously dis
played In Its construction. Those exqui
sitely clinging princess robes of Irish
crochet and Incidentally the same Is true
of less expensive laces are m-odeled over
a slip veiled with chiffon ; and this same
fiimy fabric makes both sleeve and skirt
ruches- Plain or pilsse. shirred or tucked,
or perhaps with all four methods dis
played in one frock, one Dimply cannot
get away from chiiTon this season.
Some of f'ose exquisite hand-painted
soi-disant chiiTons are fashioned with a
velvet bem at the foot; and the choice of
the coloring of this is quite an Important
Hem. The same velvet, of course, forma
the lnevitaWe girdle, and appears as sleeve
knots npon the arm covering.
And, by the way, all of the recent Im
portations i,how sleeves of decidedly
smaller dimensions. Doubtless those
thrifty Parislennes for even millionaire
women, few though they be over there,
are essentially thrifty in even their most
extravagant moments, paradoxical as It
may seem discovered that the sheer and
filmy fabrics of this season, while emi
nently suitable for large sleeves and much
drapery, were not at all likely to be im
proved by being packed into the baggy
sieeves of an evening wrap, and. therefore,
it would seem that the very large sleeves
are to be deferred until such time as
wraps may be dispensed with. All or the
gowns that owe their chic nnd charm to
Paris are displaying sieeves of decidedly
moderate, and even small, proportions,
and the girl who hoped to take time by
the forelock with her huge sleeves would
better take a reef in them If she hopes to
keep her place In the forefront of the
fashion procession.
The cape Is one of the recent revivals
that bas much to commend It to the fas
tidious dresser. For one thing, it must be
extremely well cut. and most extravagant
ly trimmed if it Is to look like anything
at all ; and the opportunity for display in
this guise, in this season of most extrava
gant display, is one no. to be lightly
slighted.
Collars are growing higher npon all gar
ments, and on the evening cape It takes
that picturesque form that Catherins de
Medici handed down to posterity. It
stands well up above the nape of the
neck ; Indeed, In many Instances !t c mes
well up. and when the hair Is dressed low
it is iikely to be &i-msv,hat rumple'! by
the collar, if a hairnet be net defiiy ad
justed over the shining colls.
The collars to sucn exquisite evening
wraps are lined with a flexible princess
haircloth, stiff enough to be serviceable,
but entirely lacking the heaviness that
canvas confers. The edges are either
wired or featherboued. according to the
caprice of the maker, and the Inside of
the collar It Is not intended to set close
to the head is ruEled and cascaded with
chiffon and lace until it Is lu itself truly
a thing of beauty.
Some of the latest colorings In vel
veteen are worked up Into delightfully
smart costumes thai are equally suitable
for afternoon or evening wear. Usually
there is a separate or separable gulmpe
of some one or another of the laces that
are held In fashionable esteem just now,
and this Is so disposed that when It is
omitted the decolletage Is not too low
for evening wear. Lace appliques, too,
appear on the skirt, either as separate
motifs or as panel effects, upon the prin
cesse gowns that really lead the season's
designs, as in many instances those are
cJeveoi kuA.d of rijoLorv. arcl orae CKiTforv.
dyed to match the velveteen, the color
scheme being carried out to the fraction
of a shade. All of those later colorings
are guaranteed to be absolutely fast, nud
to be free from the objection that fas
tidious dressers formerly advanced against
this fabric, viz: that it smudged off on
gloves, laces, etc. However, that, like
so many other things of the last century.
Is gone and done with, and the velveteens
of the new century are all thai could be
desired both as to color properties and
texture as well.
IJibbons are finding new applications
daily, and the clever designer who in
vents a new use for them is sure of an
appreciative audience. Upon gowns of
formal Intent they are more than ever en
evidence, and It Is no uncommon thing
to find three, and even four, widths, of
the same ribbon doing duty upon the one
and the same gown. Soft messnllne rib
bons are shirred through the center, and
disposed In wavy lines. Howknots and
trefoil designs are also wrought in shirred
ribbons, and posed where they will prove
roost effective in the scheme of things.
Stiff little cravats, with Tasseled ends, are
also in favor. They tie the high Willar and
some of the later collar are ear-ticklers
in height they band the elbow sleeve,
and they seem to tie the ceinture to
gether In the front nnd back, and occa
sionally even on the sides as well.
While what the furrier scornfully calls
"millinery effects" are somewhat less
prominent lu the small furs, there are
some really exquisite items in ermine, in
chinchilla, aud even in sombre sables
that clearly owe i"heir charm to the clever
fingers of the milliner. I.ace chiefly In
a combination of much heavy aud a very
little light laces nnd chiiTon are em
ployed, and the ubiquitous velvet ribbon
thrusts itself in here as well. In tbls
clever way a modicum of rich nnd ex
pensive fur is made to do duty for a
whole garment, or at any rate for a
goodly sized accessory, and the all-saving
an of the furrier may be relied upon
to make each and every scrap of the
costly pelt show up for full value.
Squirrel gills are used for making small
accessories, and even for little close-fitting
Etons. The fur Is a peculiar brown
ish gray, and made up Into a scarf or
muff presents quite a rutlied appearance.
Because of the amount of workmanship
Involved the price is rather high for such
an Inexpensive pelt-
Elegance and Luxury Portrayed in the New
Gowns.
The Season' Debutante.
White, as ever, remains the chosen col
or scheme for the debutante, nnd a mod
ish simplicity is en regie. The frock of
sheer white chiffon, the double variety
that Is so often miscalled chiffon cloth
a title that belongs by right to a variety
of broadcloth with exquisite hand em
broideries and a gauze ribbon fo- adorn
ment. The embroideries are executed
upon silk bolting cloth, which Is then cut
away from the design, thus giving an ap
pearance of applique. The decolletage is
slight and pointed, the bodice disposed In
full folds with the gauze ribbon arranged
In a becoming line nnd a deep shirred
girdle of chiffon serving to define the
waist line. The sleeve is conspicuously
small and close fitting, compared to some
of the season's models, and finishes with
a plisse frill at the elbow. The skirt is
deeply shirred to the -pd nnd carried In
an unbroken line to below the knee, where
a very full flounce la shirred on with a
ribbon for heading. Little gulmps of
shirred tucks alternate with a row of
single ribbon to the liem. The founda
tion skirt of white taffetas Is close fitting
at the top, with a Paquln flounce applied
half way below the knee and covered
with ribbon rufBes.
Furs and the Milliner.
A prlncese gown of blacb velveteen
one of those fast dyes of English make
has a yoke of Irish crochet, the hand
made article, and a sleeve of decidedly
small proportions. With this Is worn a
scarf of ermine that has a deep flounce all
arcund the same crochet as adorns the
gown, the back disposing itself after the
manner of a cape, while the front as
sumes a stole outline. The ermine Is fash
ioncd with a slight point In the center
back, narrowing to a point at the waist
line In front, while the lace and the chif
fon fall well-nigh to the hem of the gowu.
The muff is one of those almost square af
fairs, with a shaped ruffle at either end
that fails in the daintiest fashion over the
hand. The crochet drapes this, and ei
tremely effective cords of Venetian gui
pure made pendant ends across and along
the front.
At an Evenlns Concert.
The gown is of an all-over Venlse of
guipure pattern and simple design. The
lines are well calculated to set off the
beauty of the lace, the skirt being of
plain cut. setting smoothly over the hips,
and finished with several rows of plisse
ribbon in wavy intersecting lines above
the hem. The corsage displays a bolero
of lace over an under blouse of plisse chif
ton. the high stock and Directolre Jabot
adding much to its charm.
The little short blouse of chinchilla welL
displays all of the soft charm of this
delicate pelt with Its dainty gray shad
ings. The fronts roll back In pointed
revers that are refaced with white satin,
overlaid with the Venise of the dress,
while a deep frill of pleated lawn of
sheerest quality, edged wrlth real Valen
ciennes, finishes the puffy sleeve.
Several Kinds or Ribbon and Some
Chiffon.
Broad sash ribbon, narrower satin rib
bon with a pull string In the middle that
is made most effective use of. and a still
narrower ribbon that ties Into cravats
with tasseled ends go to make the charm
of this gown Into which both chiffon and
satin messnllne enter about equally. The
bodice, fashioned with a round decol
letage. Is of shirred and tucked chiffon,
decorated with narrow quilled ribbons,
and drops Into a well boned girdle of the
broad sash width. Messaline makes the
puffy upper part of the sleeve, while lace
and chiffon are combined to make the
plain lower part with a frilly cuff that
barely covers the bend of the elbow. The
upper part of the skirt Is on the pale blue
messaline, deeply pleated ail around, this
part ending well above the knee line.
The lower part is of chiffon, with deep
tucks in groups alternating with a flat
applique of sash ribbon: while little cur
licues of a narrower ribbon shirred In the
center are disposed In wavy lines, and
bow-knot appliques alternately.,
The L'.nscrte Blonae Maintains Its
Vogrt,
The lingerie blouse is to maintain all of
Its prestige right on through the winter
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LA MODE EN COIFFURE.
Some Pvecent Novelties in Hair Dressing.
FIE styles In coiffure are slowly, but
none the less surely, changing, nnd In
order to gain the full measure of be-
comlugncss that should be hers by right
It behooves each daughter of Eve to make
a study of first the new styles, next of
herself, finally of the two in conjunction.
It makes all the difference Id the world
Just the angle at which the low coll
dressing Is adjusted. A trifle too high
will make the face seem short and out of
proportion that is, the lower part of the
face will seem out of harmony with the
upper. When this knot Is too low. how
ever, it seeming'y lengthens the counten
ance, and this Is a hint that the possess
ors of such varying types of countenance
may take due heed of.
And another point In the arrangement
of this same low coiffure, which seems In
evitably sure of general adoption. Is Just
how much of It will show around the
curve of the throat, and project beyond
the ancle of the Jaw when seen in full
face. The woman who has a tendency to
double chin will find it well to draw the
hair pretty well over to the ears In this
style: while her sister with clear-cut
cameo type of features most not let a
single hair project beyond the curve of
the neck. Immediately below the ears.
The full front view should not disclose
the knot at the nape of the neck If the
pretty contour of the f' tnres Is to be
preserved; but where the lower jaw and
chin are of the very fleshy type then thj
presence of the back coll In the full front
view will take away somewhat from the
too heavy line that prevails In the lower
part of the face. Small points, those, but
It Is the little things that tell, and In the
coiffure more, perhaps, than onywhero
else.
The soft roll In front that simulates n
pompadour style It Is the simulation
rather than the real thing that is modish
at tbls moment is the one most favored,
and It is truly the most universally be
coming style that bas ever been Intro
duced. The new way Is to train the hair
to assume a soft and somewhat wavy
roll, one of those long nnd loose waves
that are only possible when natural, nnd
which the coiffure, with all his art and
his curling irons, can seldom or never
achieve.
The girl with the classically low anJ
broad forehead will, of course, adopt the
center parting, and bring the hair to
the back with a slight and wavy lift
over the ears. The fact that It takes
Just a peculiar type of beauty to wear
this trying styie successfully makes
many girls strive to adopt It: bat the
girl to whom It Is naturally becoming
should never try any other, for there 1
a distinction aud an Individuality to tb!
coiffure that Is utterly lacking in those
of more pretensions.
The pompadour front dressing that Is
parted at the side Is advocated by many:
but It must be confessed that there Is
a slangy look to this that Is anything bnt
prepossessing. It gives even the most
Innocent wearer a snowing expression,
and makes for a hardness of contour that
Is all too trying for general wear.
That smart little ribbon bow la back
again In full favor for all day and erery
day wear. Black velvet ribbon Is the
choice of most, although tile school c'tl
leans mightily to gaily colored plaids for
herB. The Catogan braid la a recent
revival for those demoiselles, and two
bows nre employed to Its tying.
For evening wear it Is the high drean
!ng that is most in vogne, althongb those
who advocate the low coll declare that
It looks best. Its most fetching best, wltllj
a decollete corsage. However, be that
as it may, there are any number of
charming pieces on view, intended for
wear with either or both styles. Wreaths
of little buttonroses or chrysanthemums,
larger blossoms of the same flowers:
popples nnd poppy buds, moss rose bads,
orchids for the older matrons, and but
terflies, marabouts and aigrettes for the
belles of all ages, from the debutante
to the white-haired dowager.
The hair net Is a very conplcnon Item
In the showcases of the coiffeur at pres.
egt. There nre Invisible ones made of
real human hair, which, when matched
to one's own natural ehevelure. really
and truly make pood their claim to be
Invisible and undetectable. Quite the
opposite to those are they of heavy slik
mesh, with beads caught Into each single
or alternate mesh. Tiny fine-cot Jet,
gold or silver, bronze or Iridescent beads
are used: and this net Is Just as con
spicuous as the other Is unobtrusive.
Just which one to employ la entirely a
matter of taste and caprice, and tba
latest fad calls for the Invisible oo
for daylight wear and the more elnbor,t
item for evening use wbco the grand
coiffure is In force.
season, but, as usual, there are some
novel features to mark the recent arrivals
from their predecessors. The innstratloa
will disclose several of these to the ob
servant eye. The fastening, as before. Is
In the back, thus leaving the frants free
for an uninterrupted scheme of decora
tion. The collars are moch higher, and
now require not less than than four and
oftener six rods of fentherbone to su
port them at the right ungle. The side
seams are deeply curved, and there Is far
less fulness at the waistline.' The sleeve,
too. Is different. That of the picture has
a full puff top, with loops of feather-
boue used In the shoulder seam to m'al;e
the sleeve stand out; and alternate rows
of Maltese Insertion and deep tuci.s
carry on the sleeve to below the bend
the elbow. The sleeve Is silt up the back
and a ruffle of the sheer ilnen Inwn It
Is as sheer as a fine handkerchief, and
the lace is of the real handmade variety
edged with lace 1s carried up ettlie
side of the opening with excellent effect.
The closer armslze makes the use of a
dress-shield Imperative, aud there Is a
permanent waistbuud on the handmade
blouses which has loops, to which ttam
skirt is hooked at the back and sides.
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