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THE TOPEKA DAILY STATE JOURNAL.
0 - fj U f v. ol Mil " 1 " "- ' - - - ::i m vnu I .1 ! 1 r ijt 1 I . - jj j -J1 v y ! L .y WMy ' 'Jai i;i - " ; . . (i$yyr tf&M XP I ; jvy iy sfeJv. s. w,, ,:f . , 4 .- ": :- ill . . "y c a ,fiy vw : 1 . & ? j u . " yy - l s I ) r ' ' - ' x .. ' : p x yy:- yyyiy ? ! Tke liberie IW T; -X. , - '" IN Winter Festivities Brin Out Gowns of Formal Intent. ft HE forma! functions that pnnctuate jj the winter season brinjf to light many of the most charming gowns toilettes that are plainly of Parisian Inspiration, If not altogether of Parisian origin. Quite goodly quantity of material or rather, to speak by the book of materials, for several different ones go to the con struction of any gown of this season that aspires to be at ail considered in the fashionable class will be required; aud it takes a clever eye for effect to adjust their proportions and regulate their lines if the desired results are to be achieved. The Parisian makers are wont to employ what cn this side we once would have considered quite unsuitable materials for many purposes. One of the very latest conceits has dancing frocks fashipned of corduroy! It is corduroy, all right, and beyond mistake: but it is the chiiTon cor duroy, that of airy weight and glistening texture, and is own twin to chiffou vel vet, which is making such a furore for itself this season, as last. The dancing frock of corduroy is of the palest yellow and be it noted that yel low in all of its shades, from the palest primrose down to a rich and deep manda rin tint, is on the very crest of the fash ionable wave. The bodice Is of double chiQon, iu the same tint, with strappings of the corduroy; and the decidedly small sleeves are of the same ribbed velvet. The skirt has its upper part of deeply pleated cuuTon. the pleats overlapping each other, and this extends to a tritle below the knee line. Here a very deep and fuit circular tiounce of corduroy Is applied, its upper part cut into fantastic scrolls, so that the line of application is not a stiff nod straight oue, and so does cot cut one's height in two, as might otherwtse be the case. A rich hand em broidery In yellow covers the joining stitches throughout and makes for a most delightful effect. Chiffon is really the most essential fac tor in ali of the new gowns, and, look as ODe may for a smart evening gown, ll cannot be found without this indispensa ble item more or less conspicuously dis played In Its construction. Those exqui sitely clinging princess robes of Irish crochet and Incidentally the same Is true of less expensive laces are m-odeled over a slip veiled with chiffon ; and this same fiimy fabric makes both sleeve and skirt ruches- Plain or pilsse. shirred or tucked, or perhaps with all four methods dis played in one frock, one Dimply cannot get away from chiiTon this season. Some of f'ose exquisite hand-painted soi-disant chiiTons are fashioned with a velvet bem at the foot; and the choice of the coloring of this is quite an Important Hem. The same velvet, of course, forma the lnevitaWe girdle, and appears as sleeve knots npon the arm covering. And, by the way, all of the recent Im portations i,how sleeves of decidedly smaller dimensions. Doubtless those thrifty Parislennes for even millionaire women, few though they be over there, are essentially thrifty in even their most extravagant moments, paradoxical as It may seem discovered that the sheer and filmy fabrics of this season, while emi nently suitable for large sleeves and much drapery, were not at all likely to be im proved by being packed into the baggy sieeves of an evening wrap, and. therefore, it would seem that the very large sleeves are to be deferred until such time as wraps may be dispensed with. All or the gowns that owe their chic nnd charm to Paris are displaying sieeves of decidedly moderate, and even small, proportions, and the girl who hoped to take time by the forelock with her huge sleeves would better take a reef in them If she hopes to keep her place In the forefront of the fashion procession. The cape Is one of the recent revivals that bas much to commend It to the fas tidious dresser. For one thing, it must be extremely well cut. and most extravagant ly trimmed if it Is to look like anything at all ; and the opportunity for display in this guise, in this season of most extrava gant display, is one no. to be lightly slighted. Collars are growing higher npon all gar ments, and on the evening cape It takes that picturesque form that Catherins de Medici handed down to posterity. It stands well up above the nape of the neck ; Indeed, In many Instances !t c mes well up. and when the hair Is dressed low it is iikely to be &i-msv,hat rumple'! by the collar, if a hairnet be net defiiy ad justed over the shining colls. The collars to sucn exquisite evening wraps are lined with a flexible princess haircloth, stiff enough to be serviceable, but entirely lacking the heaviness that canvas confers. The edges are either wired or featherboued. according to the caprice of the maker, and the Inside of the collar It Is not intended to set close to the head is ruEled and cascaded with chiffon and lace until it Is lu itself truly a thing of beauty. Some of the latest colorings In vel veteen are worked up Into delightfully smart costumes thai are equally suitable for afternoon or evening wear. Usually there is a separate or separable gulmpe of some one or another of the laces that are held In fashionable esteem just now, and this Is so disposed that when It is omitted the decolletage Is not too low for evening wear. Lace appliques, too, appear on the skirt, either as separate motifs or as panel effects, upon the prin cesse gowns that really lead the season's designs, as in many instances those are cJeveoi kuA.d of rijoLorv. arcl orae CKiTforv. dyed to match the velveteen, the color scheme being carried out to the fraction of a shade. All of those later colorings are guaranteed to be absolutely fast, nud to be free from the objection that fas tidious dressers formerly advanced against this fabric, viz: that it smudged off on gloves, laces, etc. However, that, like so many other things of the last century. Is gone and done with, and the velveteens of the new century are all thai could be desired both as to color properties and texture as well. IJibbons are finding new applications daily, and the clever designer who in vents a new use for them is sure of an appreciative audience. Upon gowns of formal Intent they are more than ever en evidence, and It Is no uncommon thing to find three, and even four, widths, of the same ribbon doing duty upon the one and the same gown. Soft messnllne rib bons are shirred through the center, and disposed In wavy lines. Howknots and trefoil designs are also wrought in shirred ribbons, and posed where they will prove roost effective in the scheme of things. Stiff little cravats, with Tasseled ends, are also in favor. They tie the high Willar and some of the later collar are ear-ticklers in height they band the elbow sleeve, and they seem to tie the ceinture to gether In the front nnd back, and occa sionally even on the sides as well. While what the furrier scornfully calls "millinery effects" are somewhat less prominent lu the small furs, there are some really exquisite items in ermine, in chinchilla, aud even in sombre sables that clearly owe i"heir charm to the clever fingers of the milliner. I.ace chiefly In a combination of much heavy aud a very little light laces nnd chiiTon are em ployed, and the ubiquitous velvet ribbon thrusts itself in here as well. In tbls clever way a modicum of rich nnd ex pensive fur is made to do duty for a whole garment, or at any rate for a goodly sized accessory, and the all-saving an of the furrier may be relied upon to make each and every scrap of the costly pelt show up for full value. Squirrel gills are used for making small accessories, and even for little close-fitting Etons. The fur Is a peculiar brown ish gray, and made up Into a scarf or muff presents quite a rutlied appearance. Because of the amount of workmanship Involved the price is rather high for such an Inexpensive pelt- Elegance and Luxury Portrayed in the New Gowns. The Season' Debutante. White, as ever, remains the chosen col or scheme for the debutante, nnd a mod ish simplicity is en regie. The frock of sheer white chiffon, the double variety that Is so often miscalled chiffon cloth a title that belongs by right to a variety of broadcloth with exquisite hand em broideries and a gauze ribbon fo- adorn ment. The embroideries are executed upon silk bolting cloth, which Is then cut away from the design, thus giving an ap pearance of applique. The decolletage is slight and pointed, the bodice disposed In full folds with the gauze ribbon arranged In a becoming line nnd a deep shirred girdle of chiffon serving to define the waist line. The sleeve is conspicuously small and close fitting, compared to some of the season's models, and finishes with a plisse frill at the elbow. The skirt is deeply shirred to the -pd nnd carried In an unbroken line to below the knee, where a very full flounce la shirred on with a ribbon for heading. Little gulmps of shirred tucks alternate with a row of single ribbon to the liem. The founda tion skirt of white taffetas Is close fitting at the top, with a Paquln flounce applied half way below the knee and covered with ribbon rufBes. Furs and the Milliner. A prlncese gown of blacb velveteen one of those fast dyes of English make has a yoke of Irish crochet, the hand made article, and a sleeve of decidedly small proportions. With this Is worn a scarf of ermine that has a deep flounce all arcund the same crochet as adorns the gown, the back disposing itself after the manner of a cape, while the front as sumes a stole outline. The ermine Is fash ioncd with a slight point In the center back, narrowing to a point at the waist line In front, while the lace and the chif fon fall well-nigh to the hem of the gowu. The muff is one of those almost square af fairs, with a shaped ruffle at either end that fails in the daintiest fashion over the hand. The crochet drapes this, and ei tremely effective cords of Venetian gui pure made pendant ends across and along the front. At an Evenlns Concert. The gown is of an all-over Venlse of guipure pattern and simple design. The lines are well calculated to set off the beauty of the lace, the skirt being of plain cut. setting smoothly over the hips, and finished with several rows of plisse ribbon in wavy intersecting lines above the hem. The corsage displays a bolero of lace over an under blouse of plisse chif ton. the high stock and Directolre Jabot adding much to its charm. The little short blouse of chinchilla welL displays all of the soft charm of this delicate pelt with Its dainty gray shad ings. The fronts roll back In pointed revers that are refaced with white satin, overlaid with the Venise of the dress, while a deep frill of pleated lawn of sheerest quality, edged wrlth real Valen ciennes, finishes the puffy sleeve. Several Kinds or Ribbon and Some Chiffon. Broad sash ribbon, narrower satin rib bon with a pull string In the middle that is made most effective use of. and a still narrower ribbon that ties Into cravats with tasseled ends go to make the charm of this gown Into which both chiffon and satin messnllne enter about equally. The bodice, fashioned with a round decol letage. Is of shirred and tucked chiffon, decorated with narrow quilled ribbons, and drops Into a well boned girdle of the broad sash width. Messaline makes the puffy upper part of the sleeve, while lace and chiffon are combined to make the plain lower part with a frilly cuff that barely covers the bend of the elbow. The upper part of the skirt Is on the pale blue messaline, deeply pleated ail around, this part ending well above the knee line. The lower part is of chiffon, with deep tucks in groups alternating with a flat applique of sash ribbon: while little cur licues of a narrower ribbon shirred In the center are disposed In wavy lines, and bow-knot appliques alternately., The L'.nscrte Blonae Maintains Its Vogrt, The lingerie blouse is to maintain all of Its prestige right on through the winter UK I!,' m zyOL. - rs -j xy. mi M- i Vim Wit 5,;. 4 'y Kir crtxcl tK-e. HiHxr-e:r - y 5 ' . 7 1 4 V- t W J ; 5 ' I C v. V5 si - LA MODE EN COIFFURE. Some Pvecent Novelties in Hair Dressing. FIE styles In coiffure are slowly, but none the less surely, changing, nnd In order to gain the full measure of be- comlugncss that should be hers by right It behooves each daughter of Eve to make a study of first the new styles, next of herself, finally of the two in conjunction. It makes all the difference Id the world Just the angle at which the low coll dressing Is adjusted. A trifle too high will make the face seem short and out of proportion that is, the lower part of the face will seem out of harmony with the upper. When this knot Is too low. how ever, it seeming'y lengthens the counten ance, and this Is a hint that the possess ors of such varying types of countenance may take due heed of. And another point In the arrangement of this same low coiffure, which seems In evitably sure of general adoption. Is Just how much of It will show around the curve of the throat, and project beyond the ancle of the Jaw when seen in full face. The woman who has a tendency to double chin will find it well to draw the hair pretty well over to the ears In this style: while her sister with clear-cut cameo type of features most not let a single hair project beyond the curve of the neck. Immediately below the ears. The full front view should not disclose the knot at the nape of the neck If the pretty contour of the f' tnres Is to be preserved; but where the lower jaw and chin are of the very fleshy type then thj presence of the back coll In the full front view will take away somewhat from the too heavy line that prevails In the lower part of the face. Small points, those, but It Is the little things that tell, and In the coiffure more, perhaps, than onywhero else. The soft roll In front that simulates n pompadour style It Is the simulation rather than the real thing that is modish at tbls moment is the one most favored, and It is truly the most universally be coming style that bas ever been Intro duced. The new way Is to train the hair to assume a soft and somewhat wavy roll, one of those long nnd loose waves that are only possible when natural, nnd which the coiffure, with all his art and his curling irons, can seldom or never achieve. The girl with the classically low anJ broad forehead will, of course, adopt the center parting, and bring the hair to the back with a slight and wavy lift over the ears. The fact that It takes Just a peculiar type of beauty to wear this trying styie successfully makes many girls strive to adopt It: bat the girl to whom It Is naturally becoming should never try any other, for there 1 a distinction aud an Individuality to tb! coiffure that Is utterly lacking in those of more pretensions. The pompadour front dressing that Is parted at the side Is advocated by many: but It must be confessed that there Is a slangy look to this that Is anything bnt prepossessing. It gives even the most Innocent wearer a snowing expression, and makes for a hardness of contour that Is all too trying for general wear. That smart little ribbon bow la back again In full favor for all day and erery day wear. Black velvet ribbon Is the choice of most, although tile school c'tl leans mightily to gaily colored plaids for herB. The Catogan braid la a recent revival for those demoiselles, and two bows nre employed to Its tying. For evening wear it Is the high drean !ng that is most in vogne, althongb those who advocate the low coll declare that It looks best. Its most fetching best, wltllj a decollete corsage. However, be that as it may, there are any number of charming pieces on view, intended for wear with either or both styles. Wreaths of little buttonroses or chrysanthemums, larger blossoms of the same flowers: popples nnd poppy buds, moss rose bads, orchids for the older matrons, and but terflies, marabouts and aigrettes for the belles of all ages, from the debutante to the white-haired dowager. The hair net Is a very conplcnon Item In the showcases of the coiffeur at pres. egt. There nre Invisible ones made of real human hair, which, when matched to one's own natural ehevelure. really and truly make pood their claim to be Invisible and undetectable. Quite the opposite to those are they of heavy slik mesh, with beads caught Into each single or alternate mesh. Tiny fine-cot Jet, gold or silver, bronze or Iridescent beads are used: and this net Is Just as con spicuous as the other Is unobtrusive. Just which one to employ la entirely a matter of taste and caprice, and tba latest fad calls for the Invisible oo for daylight wear and the more elnbor,t item for evening use wbco the grand coiffure is In force. season, but, as usual, there are some novel features to mark the recent arrivals from their predecessors. The innstratloa will disclose several of these to the ob servant eye. The fastening, as before. Is In the back, thus leaving the frants free for an uninterrupted scheme of decora tion. The collars are moch higher, and now require not less than than four and oftener six rods of fentherbone to su port them at the right ungle. The side seams are deeply curved, and there Is far less fulness at the waistline.' The sleeve, too. Is different. That of the picture has a full puff top, with loops of feather- boue used In the shoulder seam to m'al;e the sleeve stand out; and alternate rows of Maltese Insertion and deep tuci.s carry on the sleeve to below the bend the elbow. The sleeve Is silt up the back and a ruffle of the sheer ilnen Inwn It Is as sheer as a fine handkerchief, and the lace is of the real handmade variety edged with lace 1s carried up ettlie side of the opening with excellent effect. The closer armslze makes the use of a dress-shield Imperative, aud there Is a permanent waistbuud on the handmade blouses which has loops, to which ttam skirt is hooked at the back and sides. V I