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TOPEKA STATE JOURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, DECEMBER 30, 1905.
J a,- .y ARIS, Dec. 10. I was drinking tea a few afternoons ago at 36 . ' i the "Chinese Umbrella," the tea room, which is the sensa tion of the hour in the Rue de Eac, quite' close to the Bon Marche, when thoughts of tine New Year's reso lutions and -presents were rudely in terrupted by the "blowing in," one might say, of an excitable little friend cf mine, who indignantly exclaimed, "Those horrid milliners in the Rue de la Paix have rather overreached them selves this time." Upon my inquiring the cause of so much feeling, my angry little compatriot continued: "Why, do you know that Celeste actually had the impudence to tell me, when I complain ed just now, that the aigret she put in my last new hat was too tall to com fortably wear in a brougham that her customers so far had not complained; the automobile carriage was quite high enough to accommodate them. Such bare faced impertinence, when she knew I had come to the shop in a cab." - I stemmed the tempest arising in the teacup and smoothed the ruffled feath ers of my lady as best I could, but in my heart I sympathized with her, for the smart milliners are certainly pan dering to the feminine motor public in their absurd creations. The present ' fashion in chapeaux is only comfortable in the salon carriages a la motor. In an ordinary vehicle you must either make up your mind to sit on the very end of the seat and bend your neck or have your hats made at home. Moral: If you are ambitious of ap pearing in hats with Rue de la Paix signatures you must have an automo bile to put them in. Not a small in significant car either, with a hood, but a full blown limousine with plenty of space. - It is my humble opinion that if some millinery artist unknown to fame would write over her door, "Hats that can be worn in broughams and cabs," her success would be assured. At the theaters there is once more a movement to suppress the large hats that are so smart in the evening, but so timid are the managers that the edict will have no more effect this year than it had in preceding seasons. If our Parisian theatrical managers would only have the courage of their Span ish colleagues! In Madrid it was de cided to place the women wearing hats oa one side of the stalls and the men on the other, so that the large hats would only inconvenience the women. Needless to say, this measure had to be enforced only once. The moudaines objected as much to being seated be hind other people's feathers as they did to being separated from their admirers. Speaking of hats, every Parisian wears a "chi-chi," which interpreted is a fascinating little bunch of curls that adds wonderfully to the attraction of the tip tilted hat or the evening coiffure. W'ith the greatest ease she removes this dainty fluff of hair when going into the street, pins it triumphantly to her hat brim and goes on her way rejoicing. To come back once more to the Chi nese tea room, which, by the way, is run by a charming American woman, the ex treme novelty of the whole affair at tracts universal attention. The gor 1 nj w- ORD CHESTERFIELD has de scribed New Year's as "The most, lying nay ot the year- time when the kindest and warmest wishes are exchanged without the least meaning." One hardly ex pects to hear a sentiment of this kind emanating from such a source of ex quisite politeness. Still, one is obliged to acknowledge that there is a certain amount of truth in the statement, but fortunately all powerful fashion has changed the social character of this day, and we hope has also raised the moral standard: The old time custom of New Year's calls was doubtless respon sible for the greater number of these Eapphira's and Ananiascs. The custom of general calling has now practically died out, but the beautiful spirit of hos pitality survives in no less attractive forms and is found delightfully express ed in merry week end holiday parties and jolly New Year eve spreads offered by hostesses to friends whom they are genuinely glad to entertain on the ad-I vent of the New Year. In connection with this holiday we are also adopting many foreign ideas. From the French we have borrowed the charming custom of giving presents to friends and acquaintances. And if one is interested in tracing this idea to its fountain head she may read in old rec ords that the new year was celebrated in Japan and China by men and women setting forth at dawn to make visits and to carry gifts. The Romans, too, spent the day in a round of calls for the pur pose of making gifts and wishing each other a Happy New Yer.r. But the fashion of paying and receiving calls is , not likely to die out altogether so long as the chief magistrate at Washington welcomes on that day all. who wish to pay their respects to him. This year another innovation the old English wassail bowl will be intro duced to merry makers at out of town clubs and at smart private New Year eve suppers. At midnight every one wiil drink to the old toast, "A good health and a happy new year and many of them." And in parties where the true English spirit prevails the com pany will join hands and dance around the table singing the old- Scotch re frain: "Weel may we a' be; . Ill may we never be. Here's tae the king Juti the ud companies" lit, geous satin hangings laden with gold and silver embroideries are quite gen uine as they were taken from the im perial palace at Peking at the time of the Boxer rebellion. The yellow flag that decorates the quaint balcony a sort of musician's gallery is an im perial trophy, and on all sides there are rare specimens of. Chinese porce lain. It is no easy matter ordinarily to find a table at the Umbrella, and the day when I enjoyed its hospitality the Iittle queen of Madagascar was a much looked at visitor. Have you ever realized how invalu able are the "hold all" hand bags of the day? I have always appreciated them, but never more so than one night last week when on returning home from the theater I found I had left my latehkep itiside the apartment. In some capitals one might have attempted to enter for cibly even at that late hour, but hert in Paris where it is a crime to disturb the slumbers of your neighbors such a step was impossible. If you cannot play the piano after 11 o'clock without especial permission, to try and force open your hall door with the assistance Patriotic Americans will the name of "the president' king." . To give a flavor of originality to this toast each guest will be provided with . 1 m ; j; - w j 1 mum v 711 i hi WKM 7x 'H 1 IN;,, l U ?rr.tOT U .. V V - T 1 I is It 1,1. II I ill a M , i r : ra n. : - , ; 1 'Jip - -. -I S. .' A- -V 1 " w 'til It ,..-!-.- 'im i i Ul 'isfr . - the name of "the president" for "the f ""Ok of a hammer would be impossible. Con sequently there was nothing for It but a hotel, with a dainty green leather bag as luggage. But really it might have been lots worse, for in that bag there were powder puff, button hook, comb, hand glass and perfume. Yes, the hand bag is an absolute ne cessity, and Parisians who give as many presents on New Year's day as they do offerings at the Noel festival are find ing these bags very charming gifts with their covers of softest suede and intri cate monograms in chased silver, their beautifully designed chains and their wonderful capacity for carrying every thing. 1 - - The movement in the direction of the Riviera is making itself felt very early this year. It may be that the spell of Siberian weather we have been called on to endure during the past few weeks has quickened the charms of La Cote d'Azur, but certain it is that every one is ordering new gowns for the sunny south. a minute boiler the kind used for cooking eggs. At one end of the glasses lettered in gold are the figures 1905 and on the reverse end 1906. At the psy chological moment the toas-t is quaffed. S '4 9 Z La t ' . WU- hV ' AOU V-. , ri ' X'7, ,7m In all the new frocks the couturieres are introducing a slight bustle made of silk ruffles, extending about ten inches down the skirt. The frills hold the PARTY COIFFUEE AJD FANCY DRESS FOR CHILDREN. jupe out in a becoming fashion,, but there must be no encroaching on the hip territory or the effect will be lost. Sleeves are also held out with other ruffles of a like genre. v At this time of the year children's Every one who has read the Pickwick papers remembers the "mighty bowl of wassail, sometimes smaller than the or dinary washhouse copper, in which the hot apples were bubbling with a rich look and hissing sound." Most of the old writers agree that wassail was com posed of ale, wine, spices and brandy, but this recipe was not always strictly adhered to. The old world wassail is rather hard on the digestion, and like Mark Twain's mince pie, when eaten at midnight, .might be found by the un initiated to be very mucii "loaded." But 0 0 i r fancy dress parties are favorite func tions for the wee folks and afford be sides real amusement to their mammas in devising graceful and pretty cos tumes. The resourceful woman is al ways at her best under such conditions. At heart I believe we are all actresses. Children undoubtedly love to dress up and play being some one else. General izing at all times is dangerous, but it is absolutely fatal where children's fancy clothes are concerned. Because a success was achieved with some fat chubby darling, say as a cupid. it does not follow that every child of a similar age Is going to score a triumph in this character. The important thing is to study the style of the small wearer of a fancy costume. If a girl, for instance, has a thin, demure face, then there is always the pretty Puritan, Quakeress or little great-grandmother. A roguish, round, dimpled countenance suggests endless possibilities in the shape of vi vandieres, shepherdesses, Pierrettes, butterflies and the like. Personally I think more individuality of expression is possible with the insect and flower worlds than, is tffered in other direc tions. A simple and delightful notion is a painted lady butterfly . carried out in brown and gold tinsel arranged as a sort of peplum with transparent wings in which some touch of color is intro duced. The tiny human butterfly ar rives at the party in a chrysalis state of brown chifton or mousseline wound here is a recipe tried and true which its originator declares is a tonic for the stomach: One-twelfth ounce of mace, one-third Ounce-of cloves, one quarter ounce of cardamon, one-quarter ounce of cinnamon, one-twelfth ounce of nutmeg, one-third ounce of ginger and nearly one-half ounce of coriande. seeds put into a cupful of water over the fire and allowed to simmer half an hour or longer. To these ingredients are added four bottles of sherry and one and one-half pounds of loaf sugar, and -when raging hot pour in the yolks of twelve eggs and the well beaten whites of six, stirring briskly until the mixture becomes quite frothy. Then drop in six soft roasted, peeled apples. The wassail must be served imme diately. One of the best cooks in the south Is responsible for the eggnog recipe, which, although rather extravagant, is well worth the price of its manufacture. Beat the whites and yolks of eighteen fresh eggs separately, the whites in a large bowl until both are as light as possible. While beating the yolks stir in with them eighteen tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar. Take fifteen win glass fulls of best French brandy, six of old Jamaica rum and mix the spirits in a pitcher, then pour the liquor very slowly on the yolks of the eggs and the sugar, stirring until thoroughly mixed. This process cooks the eggs. Then add, also very slowly, one quart of very rich cream and one of milk until the in. ivmvnn around her small person from head to foot. In this condition she should ap pear in the ball room, the unwinding process only occurring when the chry salis appearance has ceased to interest the company. Many charming results are obtained with well worn themes. Cupid up to date is a suggestion time honored in nursery land and yef, could anything be happier for a roguish, curly haired lit tle chap of four or five? The idea is an absurd plagiarism of a man's dress suit carried out in white satin, the miniature decollete vest closing with a single paste button below an expanse of soft. white lawn shirt in which is a paste stud. " The little breeches are of white satin, and, although the short coat sleeves, absurd little white satin top hat and sandals are anachronisms, they are a species of poetic license, without which we are apt to lose half the joy of planning a fancy dress costume. Ascending the scale of years the Dutch peasant holiday dress is an ex quisite costume for a girl of eight or ten. Such a frock is easily worked up in green and red silks, with the never absent touches of lace characteristic of the country. A deep red taffeta skirt may be bunched out over daintily trimmed lace petticoats another ar tistic license and worn with a green velveteen bodice, faced over a white embroidered chemisette. The cap and apron should be of firmer white mus lin, ornamented with lace, and the sabots should be donned only to make an effective entrance, as these shoes are too clumsy to dance in. Ordinary satin sandals are worn under them, thus making the transformation a mat ter of a moment. Ideal for . a girl of twelve or four teen is a reproduction of a Romney picture. The dress is of white silk or India muslin, worn with a bright blue sash. The crossed scarf demurely ar ranged over the arms is- of tulle or mousseline. The skirt just touches the ground all round and is very full, while the long close fitting sleeves are finish ed with little lace ruffles. The hair is dressed high and wide at the sides with clustering curls at the nape of the neck. The large hat of white muslin and lace lined with pale blue is an es sential item of the costume. Carmen, the Geisha girl, "La Belle France" and the well tested impersona tion of Folly are all revived this sea son. An attractive dress for the char acter of Carmen consists of a loose fit ting white Japanese silk blouse made collarless with a V shaped neck open ing. The skirt is of geranium cash mere, with a sleeveless bolero of black velvet richly trimmed with jeweled pas sementerie. The hem of the short skirt has a band of the same embroidery. Around the waist is a sash of black silk, intersected with strips of gold tinsel. A bright red rose worn in the hair, a fan, castanets, a necklace oi large pearls, rings and jeweled hatpins com plete this coquettish costume. An apt illustration of our love of va riety in the grownup world and of our capability for achieving it with small expenditure of time is apparent in the dinners to which the guests come with fancy dress heads. It is so easy that no one thinks of discovering a "previ ous engagement" when replying to such an alluring invitation. A favorite coif fure represents "The Press" and is charming when adopted by a youthful blond. The hat worn is a broad, white felt flop sharply turned up in fipnt with quill' and crayon stuck through a well placed slit. White and black rosettes at opposite corners of the hat are ex tremely becoming in conjunction with a plain black dress. CATHERINE TALBOT. whole is well mixed. The mixture is now ready to pour into the punch Jaowl, when the whites of the eggs are added, a tablespoonful at a-time, until the in gredients are all perfectly blended. The eggnog improves if kept annliour or two in a cold place before drinking, occa sionally stirring it from the bottom of the bowl. There is an old saying that if you welcome the new year with toasts and good things to eat plenty will attend you all the year. An oyster supper with novel decorations is a pice little feast for a New Year's eve spread. For the menu something on the following order would be attractive. Oyster cocktails in green peppers, oyster soup and croquettes and chicken with oyster sauce. The ices could be served in the shape of an oyster. Table decorations for such a supper can be made both pretty and appropriate. An original centerpiece is a small sailing vessel placed on billows of green cheesecloth. The table, of course, will be bare and polished, save for the doylies. Heaped around the nautical centerpiece is a small rockery of oyster shells. At the end of the supper each guest pulls a ribbon attached to these shells, which contain funny little gifts. Dainty favors are white cardboard boxes trimmed with imitation seaweed. On each box is written a quotation re lating to the oyster. Such as: "An oyster may be crossed in love." "He was a bold man that first ate an oys ter." "The world is my oyster," etc. While upon the subject of table deco rations a pretty idea will be carried out this New Year's eve at an informal sup per. There will be no cloth upon the highly polished table, but in the mid dle from one end to the other will ex tend a wide strip of scarlet satin, hav ing at the hem a narrow insertion of lace dyed the same shade. Fruits in silver dishes are to be arranged upon the scarlet strip, while the center of the board will boast a silver bowl filled with holly and mistletoe. The silver dishes upon the brown wood, the knives and forks and the wood shining through the meshes of the scarlet lace will make a delightful harmony. The menu for the supper served on this artistic board will be Hot Bouillon. Lobster in Ramikins. Celery. Olives. Brown Bread Sandwiches. Chicken Souffle with Mayonnaise. Finsor Rolls. New Year Ice Cream. Wine Jelly. Coffee. Claret Cup. The Wassail Bowl. FLORENCE WIBERLY. Renovating Books. The torn leaf of a book can be mended by pasting new white tissue paper over it with transparent paste. The print will show through and can bo read without any difficulty. A hard, dry skin will yield to massage and cold cream. I A Semifittini Coat';: - 1 tan broadcloth. It is semisitting; with exquisite curves that, naif concealing, reveal the figure to perfec tion. The deep collar and turned back cuffs are of velvet a shade deeper than the cloth and are overlaid with bands of beaver fur, whic h in turn are strapped with the cloth and held with amber buttons. Straps of cloth take the plaea of the usual button fastening down tha front of the coat. Jnreuile Parties There is in these days a great change in entertaining children. Nowadays mothers who have not spacious rooms take tickets at one of the favorite the aters where an entertainment suitable for little folk is running. With each set of children a grownup relative is asked, and after the play the guests are given tea at a restaurant and in some instances go home. Sometimes they indulge in games in a private room of the restaurant or hotel. When a party is given in a private house as a rule some well known and clever enter tainer is hired to perform at intervals between games and dances. Perhaps the matinee theater or variety show party is the more successful. ' New I'ndervest. The newest shape of undervest is made to fasten up the left side. It is shaped to the figure at the sides, and in order that the. wearer may be well protected against cold winds the gar ment is very much longer than usual and completely covers, the hips. This is a particularly .suitable shape for a woman who suffers from chest ailments, as the garment is high necked, and if necessary the front could be lined with chamois leather or a fine quality of flannel. STo I mi UlAW COCOANUT PIE. Scald one quart of milk in a double boiler, take from the fire and beat in gradual ly five eggs whipped to a froth. When nearly cold add one pound of grated co coanut, one cupful of sugar, a salt spoonful of salt, a teaspoouful of nut meg and two teaspoonfuls of rose water or vanilla. Rake in open shells. This amount makes two pies. Chocolate Loaf Cake. Cream togeth er one-half cupful of butter and one and one-quarter cupfuls of sugar. Beat three eggs, whites and yolks separately, and add the yolks to the butter and sugar mixture. Next add a cup and a half of sifted flour with a teaspoonful of baking powder, then a half cupful of milk. Beat well and add the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and lastly one-quarter cake of melted cho colate and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Bake in a moderate oven. Simple Sponge Cake. Beat the yolks of three eggs and one and one-half cupfuls of granulated sugar, one table spoonful of lemon juice and half a cup ful of water. Sift in two cupfuls of sifted flour, then add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff and two level tea spoonfuls of baking powder. Line long, shallow pans with paper, turn in the mixture and bake in a moderate oven forty minutes. Bread Cake. Work into three cup fuls of rise'n bread dough one cup of butter, three scant cupfuls of sugar, one cup of seeded raisins, three well beaten eggs, one grated nutmeg, one teaspoon ful of baking soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and a wineglass oi sherry. Bake in a loaf. In' Washing- Remember-. That flannels are wasned first. That white things come next. That colored things are' done while white things are boiling. That dirty kitchen aprons and cloths come last of all. That soaking is done in cold water. That rinsing is done in tepid water. That soap must be thoroughly rinsed out before bluing. That blue must be well mixed through the water. That wringing well after bluing is most important. That extremes of heat or cold cause shrinking. An egg cannot be beaten with brandy, as the alcohol curdles it. A little sugar or salt win help greatly in egg beating. M 6