Newspaper Page Text
TOPEKA STATE J OURNAL, SATURDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 21, 1903.
PARIS, Nov. 7. We have had the strenuous life exemplified in our hairdressing for the last few years, but this winter the Parlsienne is rejoicing In the Wag nerian idea of a simple coiffure exist ence, and the new CJrecian mode! Is the way In which the simple life expresses Itself in a woman's fascinating tresses. However, this is an elaborate simplicity as formulated today. Large pompa dours, strings of applied puffs and curls have ceased to exist for the mod ish mondaine. Indeed, it is a question whether the really well groomed wo man ever forgot herself sufficiently to permit her head to be made the subject of the cartoonist's wit. In adopting the first empire and directoire " styles. which Dame Fashion decrees smart women must do, uniformity demands that her hair should be dressed in keeping. The classic Psyche knot and the Grecian filet, therefore, are things to conjure with nowadays. So hair dressers have been visiting art mu seums to copy the coiffures of ancient statues, for you know it was from Greek art that the empire couturiers drew their inspirations. It is quite within the province of the up to date girl to arrange her hair becomingly either ' in the directoire style, the Psyche or the modified directoire with out the least particle of trouble when she is given a few hints as to the mo dus operandi.' In dressing the hair in any of these styles for the street the pompadour still has a part to play, for no hair is luxuriant enough to stand out at the sides unaided to meet the re quirements of the big directoire hat. As a foundation a transformation is used under the heir instead of an un hygienic rat. This transformation consists of a circular band of narrow wire that exactly fits the crown of the head. To this wire is attached the false hair, varying in length and thick ness according to the wearer's needs. It fits down securely on the crown of the head, and a couple of hairpins, run through tiny loops made for the pur pose, hold it in place. So, you see, in this way there is no insanitary mat in which dust and dandruff may find a lodgment, only the narrow rim of wire lying close to the head, while the hair uttached to it combs in naturally with one's own. The real hair is ' brushed down all round the head and is then gathered up, together with the false locks of the transformation, and secured halfway between the nape of the neck and the crown of the head. The front and side tresses are puffed out in loose, natural looking waves at the sides and front, nr.d the hair is then either separated into sections that are puffed or made into a single loose coil. When the hair is too scanty to make much of a dis play a few false curls or puffs are pin ned over the knot to make it stand out rt the proper Psyche angle. Of course if is much nicer to make the puffs from the ends of one's own hair, but if is not a social crime to wear the h i!r of some-one else. The artificial puffs are used separately, and, attached rs they are to long, strong hairpins, it t ' an easy matter to tuck them in in a tarc'esF. f.ishion wherever the need $ $ Faults of the Modern t CAN tell you one thing education is not book knowledge, not by a - long shot. Real education is what teaches you how to get along with your fellow men, how to control yourself, how to "make good" In this world. Did you ever see a man or woman who was crammed full of book knowl edge and nothing else? I have known such people, and they were simply Impossible to have as friends or even calling acquaintances. They knew nothing of the world or its so cial usages. They were more than rude; they didn't even . know they were rude. I have known college women so devoid of social tact and graces that they ap peared like sav ages when in so ciety. They made countless ene mies and all kinds of trouble for Lducation i, not book themselves just , knoKltdge. because they didn't know how to conduct themselves In the company of their fellow' beings. With their loud laughs and their curt remarks I don't see how any one could call them educated. What She Needs. Finishing schools are not such silly affairs as certain high brows would have us think. A woman does not need Latin or Greek to be a success in this world, but she does need what the French call savoir faire, which, literally translated, means the art of knowing how to get along. I have seen so many tragedies of lonely lives led by women who would gladly have been sociable and popular, only they didn't know how. These women were highly educated as far as schooling went, they were well born and agreeable, but they lacked all the little graces that make one popular. When you go to a dance you know people don't care whether you studied Latin or not, it won't even worry them If you can't spell, but you must be able to dance gracefully and carry on your share of small talk. The etiquette of cards is a hundred times more important than French history to a woman, and table manners are of greater moment than all her de grees put together. It Is these, things that stamp a woman socially and in fluence her happiness and her entire life. A Pernicious System. I hope I am not devoting too much space in the Kate Clyde letter to dis cussing this subject, but it is one we are all of us realizing nowadays. Our j II ft. -v 1 41,7 U - ."J?f.. i , II -. W - presents itself or becomingnes3 de mands. There must be no suggestion of stiffness about the puffs if they would pass muster with the fashion able woman. -When nature has not blessed one with curly hair the straight locks are waved ever so little in large undulations, with never a hint of the iron. Under the Psyche knot the hair is pulled out slightly to give a small puffed appearance, but the line of the hair at the nape of the neck must be preserved and the "teasing locks" caught up with a barette. Different arrangements of the evening coiffure are shown in the illustrations. Puffs figure prominently in one of the models, with a ribbon bow stuck in carelessly among them. And another cut exploits the very low dressing help ed out with fluffy curls, and still an other more elaborate arrangement of puffs has ribbon wound in and out among the waved tresses. A half wreath of flowers finishes the coiffure at one side. There Is nothing more fetching than the St. Cecelia effect as shown in one of the illustrations, but this very trying style absolutely de mands a purely Greek cast of features. The filet adds the Hellenic touch. The Correct Angle For the Psyche. The angle in smart hairdressing this season ranks with the line in the dressmaking world and is the crux of the coiffure situation. The Frenchwo man is more concerned about the mod -ishness of her hairdressing than she is with the fact of its becomingness. but the Americaine has her coiffure built to suit her facial type. She has de cided that the present angle of the knot just below the crown of the head. yet not in the neck is just her style. Artists say that this position is the "only truly becoming one for the American woman." The dressy coiffure is more elaborate whole system of education, both for girls and for boys, is on a wrong basis. The high school under the influence of woman teachers does not teach the boy to be a man. It does not put virile in fluences in his life at the time when he needs them. It does not fit him to battle with the- world successfully. He does not need poetry or history or botany so much as he needs a knowl edge of a useful trade, of men and of life. It's the same with a girl. She does not need higher mathematics or sci ences, but she does want knowledge that will fit her to be a happy, gra cious member of society. Education should be based strictly on sex and future environment to be any good at all, and I hope by writing this I will bring the subject to the attention of a good many mothers among my readers. They need to have their eyes opened. Two Suits Enough. The dress and coat suit is one of the greatest Inventions of the age. It can be made either elaborate or otherwise, but it is always useful. With two suits of this description a woman can go through the winter very comfortably. For general wear one of these may be of deep red cloth. The dress will be smart if it is made on the semiprincess model, fastening down the left side of the front with a long row of black but tons. The sleeves are best of tucked cloth, while the low cut yoke and jabot are soft and pretty made of net. This net yoke can be made on a guimpe foundation in order that it may be changed often and kept immaculate. Of course a dress meant for street wear clears the ground, but this little gown is not a hair's breadth shorter than It needs to be. The coat which goes with it can be three-quar t e r length, . trimmed with buttons and with a turnover collar of black satin finished with a black satin tie. Then a jaunty little toque, trim med with roses would go well with this cos Inflict her troubles on Iter hksband. tume, and the entire outfit could be worn practically all day long. For ceremonious calls and for even ing wear on occasions when full dress is not required the other costume is just the thing. This would be stun ning made in moleskin cloth, embroid ered in lighter tones. The gown should follow strictly empire lines, and it should have a slight train. The coat should be as long as possible, and tht fronts should not quite meet In order to allow tne embroidered front panel ot iS ' : PI I mmm than the street and afternoon arranger) ments. Still, it departs very tittle from! the simple style. Its elaborateness consists of a more imposing array of i puffs and curls at the back of the head I in a Greek style rather than in any In- ' the dress to be seen. A very large hat should be worn with this. As I said before, two suits on the order of those I have described will see a woman through the winter nicely. It is not . the number of gowns one has, but the selection of them, that counts. The Curse of Sensitiveness. If I had a child it might have all the freckles it wanted and a nose that 1 : A , " v -''vv- If 4 - THE JSLATEBIAL SIDE W THANKSGIVING DAY. -iv ,v,j Avar- .'f-r-x tricacy of arrangement. The finished effect, though, must be soft and fluffy, whatever the means to the end. The barettes of the winter are gor geous and enormous affairs. A favor ite design here In Paris cornea in am American System turned skyward and an untractable ! disposition, but there is one thing it! would not have if I could help it, and that is a sensitive disposition. What a curse sensitiveness, is both to men and women! How It makes them suffer needlessly and imagine all sorts of slights which were never In tended! And all this can be cured in infancy. A child begins by being self centered; ber, tortoise shell, metal and jet and curves so as to fit well about the base of the Grecian knot. For everyday use the amber and tortoise shell are most seen. The usual form of the big ba rettes Is a plain oblong shield. Some of the other varieties show irregular edges and carved, inlaid or jeweled incrusted surfaces. One of the best liked "models has the shield cut in an intricate all over openwork design. Many of the shell barettes are Inlaid with silver or gilt or incrusted with a design in bril liants. A number of the large barettes do not follow this severe oblong model, but are designed In any attractive shape that adapts itself to the different forms of fashionable hair doing., Some curve up from the base of the neck to quite above the ears. Then there are the barette and high comb that fits in at the top of the knot that match ex actly and are worn together. For the woman who can successfully wear the typical Grecian styles of hair dressing there is nothing more becom ing than an inch wide band of gold, silver or burnished metal carrying a chased Greek key- pattern or- a stud ding of semiprecious gems. More mod ern adaptations of the antique filet are in brilliant jet, in rhinestones and in pearls, but these ornaments are not nearly so effective as the' one of strict- j ly antique cnaracier.. r neis ot riooon I came near writing beef too, are very pretty and becoming for girlish faces. Gold and silver gauze ribbon is charming used in this way. The It ends by growing morbid. The wise mother sees this tendency and directs the child's attention away from its own self to more cheerful and less selfish thoughts, thus saving it count less misery in the future. A Sympathetic Confidant. Every woman should have some trusted friend to whom she can tell her little troubles not her family affairs (they should remain sacred to her), but - 't . ' ? ; V... ribbon filet fastens with large, flat jeweled pins at the top, sides or back of the head, and oftentimes In all these places, although rosettes and small bows are substituted. Very lovely likewise are the filets of flowers, es pecially those made of small white silvered blossoms. "Satin ribbon wired and twisted into fanciful shapes Is wbrn in the hair, and velvet, too. Is made up in the same style.' Dainty and girlish is an upstanding, rather small bow of inch wide gold gauze ribbon shimmering among a tiny spray, of pink rosebuds and maid enhair fern. A shell hairpin is attach ed to the ornament to secure it to the hair. There are lovely silver and blue combinations and a double filet of pink satin, with the bands held at the ends with small pink satin roses. Jet butterflies are charming. Indeed, brilliant jet ornaments are the smart est of hair decorations, and there is a rather unattractive jet snake that coils itself about the hair In a creepy fashion. Coronets, Mercury wings, pins and ba rettes are to be seen either wholly of jet or set with jewels. The fashionable filets come in differ ent lengths. Some encircle the head, others go only halfway round, and a third variety simply drossesthe crown of the head. There are some women who cling persistently to the high coif fure, and the pins used with this kind of hairdressing are of cabochon shape and . run through pompadour or coil after the Japanese fashion. It takes of Education $ & her little trials and difficulties. This friend should be wise and mature so that her advice would be worth hav ing. And do you know why I advise every woman to have such a friend? So that she will not Inflict the recital of her troubles on her husband when that poor man comes home dead tired from a disappointing day's work at the office. You don't know what It means to come home dead tired and to meet trouble at the door the moment it is opened. It is so depressing the wonder Is not that a man stays out late at night, but that he stays at home at all under the circumstances. I once had a studio with a girl who was a living personification of the blues. If any- She simply had to unload it all on tne. thing went wrong she simply had to unload it all on me. I felt like beating her, and it speaks volumes for, the patience of men that they don't beat such wives. Women, brace up! Bear your bur dens on your own shoulders. Men have just as much to bear ten times more and yet you never hear them whine. If you must confide, why, as I said before, chose some confidant of your own sex and spare the man who is working hard for you. He deserves at least a cheerful home and a restful evening. Tour troubles will keep un til tomorrow and perhaps then they won't loom up so large. So try my remedy. New York. TO REMODEL OLD SLEEVES. Girls who are filled with the eco nomical idea of making over the sleeves of last year's gowns cannot do better than to adopt the type of sleeve which is merely a succession -of wide folds extending from shoulder to wrist and fitting the arm almost tightly, for by so doing many small pieces of ma terial may be employed that otherwise would be useless. If there is not enough cloth or silk, as the case may be. for an entire sleeve, the folds may extend to the el bow and from thence be pieced out with net or silk muslin cuffs." The wrists of all such sleeves must fit per- 1 the deft fingers of an artist.to give juat the right twist and line to the ribbon filet and to place the cabochon pins In the hair without suggesting a large pincushion filled with a particularly happy assortment of hatpins. Conse quently many women feel safer when wearing the ready made snood or orna ment and In this way discount the risk of imparting a stiff or awkward effect to their hairdressing. Along with the general tendency to resurrect old things one hears that bangs are again coming Into fashion. To be more exact, I should say that there is a determined effort being made in this direction. But if the sentiments of one man are to be taken as an evidence of the way the wind is blowing there will be little doing in this hideous style of hair dressing. While contentedly reading his evening paper this man was star tled out of his usual cahn by hearing his pretty wife say, "I wonder whether it will be much trouble to cut my hair for bangs?" "For bangs 7" the hus band gasped, to which excited ques tion came the bland reply: "Why, of course. Bangs are the fashion again." "Well, fhey won't be the fashion In this house." I should not be surprised if such conjugal bravery met with suc cess. CATHERINE TALBOT. DIRECTOIRE ADVANTAGES. One laudable accomplishment must be set down to the credit of the direc toire dress it has killed the vogue for tight lacing. From this is to be argued no lapse Into slovenliness. The figure must be trained to maintain a per fection of trimness If the gown that does not define the wasp waist is to look beautiful. That is why suits of maillot are worn and why the princess skirt and camisoje all in one has es tablished a reputation for elegance that will not pass away from It for some little time at any rate. What the aim after a classical effect has brought about is the manifestation of a well modeled figure. Ther are no exaggerations permitted. The statuary of the ancient Greeks has brought home to the instincts of the modern dressmaker the true beauty that has its foundation In naturalism: hence the draped effects that are now so intensely admired. Women who permit their figures to be swathed in delicately thin and sup ple materials have gone far on the road toward the manifestation of true beauty, but we may be sure that they would not allow such liberties to be taken with their appearance if their figures were not elegant enough to support the distinctly trying ordeal. NEW MATERIALS FOR GUIMPES. Instead of lace and mesh net there will be a good deal of colored filet net used stamped' in the new way. It Is not unlike the flower net used for sum mer frocks and blouses several years ago, although the mesh is many times thicker and more open. The ecru surface .is covered with flowers in . all the new tones, some small, some large. This material makes yokes and long wrinkled sleeves for the handsomest kind of indoor evening gowns. I fectly, else they will be an utter fail ure, and the best way to avoid this disaster is to button or hook them on the under side where a little extra lap ping will not matter.' IN GRAY ATTIRE. A lovely little gray voile was seen In a shop recently that was one of the best examples of a model of this sort. Its beauty was its extreme simplicity. The empire line above the, waist line was accentuated by bands of gray taf feta, constituting the sole trimming The gown fell in considerable fullness below the shaped woir.t line. It had a slight sweep all about, bu could have been shorter if desired. There was a turnover collar at the neck, which was low, to be worn over a lace stock. There is goin? to be a great demand for these plain one piece dresses for general wear, just as the more elabo rate empire gown will be the proper one for evening wear. And this fact will create a field for odd wraps of all sorts. LARGE PUFFS OUT OF STYLE. It is no longer considered fashion able to wear large puffs in the coif fure. It makes no difference whether they are one's own or bought, and ap plied. They are out of style. The girl who attempts the former coiffure . of three large puffs at the back of the head, running to the nape of the neck, should learn to do her hair otherwise. The little puffs are the ones in fash ion. They are bought by the string and pinned on the hair , just above the collar. The only comb worn with them Is a perfectly flat one on top of the head that pushes the pompadour forward. Its rim must not stand up, but must nestle down in the pompa dour. MAY FROWN ON HUGE CHIGNONS "Fashion is born in Paris," and when attempts are made at trans planting it can't always stand the change. Of the fashion of piling on false hair a woman said recently that the time was long since past when even a queen could lead womankind to make itself ridiculous. It was Queen Maria Theresa who introduced the enormous headdresses, simply because she was dumpy and wished to lo.!c royally dignified. For the same reason she wore high heeled shoes. But. after all. what was the use of piling up her hair with cushions when every other woman at court . proceeded to follow her example, and Maria Theresa there by looked as Insignificant as before? A MODISH TOUCH. If you want to liven up a black coat suit, put in a waistcoat of American beauty satin or velvet. This is a smart touch and shows that you are quite la with the fashions.