THE TOPEKA DAILY STATE JOURNAL SATURDAY EVENING, JANUARY
VICTORIAN EFFECTS NEED SKILFUL MODIFICATION TO SUIT ATHLETIC DAMSELS
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A pnnlalcltc oi-nliis; pm-n Is com- - ' $L J'fY
posed of l)lai-k velvet mill black folic - ( -. - ' 1
(Copyright 1916, Internatlcnal News jgY NELL
BY GKRMAINFJ GAUTIKR.
Ono of the revived features of the
tyle of dress associated with the mid
Victorian period is the drop-shoulder
But the American adapters of the
more or less classic styles of 1830 and
thereabouts have improved on the
original models. Thy can't pive this
appearance to the well built American
Kirl who loves to dance, to golf, to
skate and walk, and who has no pa
tience with a type ether than that of
the athletic which she herself so well
Nevertheless, tnis selfsame ffirl is
not the least averse to displaying good
shoulder lines when her dressmaker
suggests. One scheme which modistes
have adopted is to connect the decol
lete bodice over the shoulders by
means of bands of jewelled embroid
ery, strands of rhinestones or straps of
velvet. Sometimes there is a little
loeve, whore very presence serves to
call attention to the nude shoulders
above. For these sleeves are cut in
tiny puffs and headed with a decora
tive band of some sort and then per
mitted to fall away from the shoulder.
Women who study effects quite
a.ree that there is more art in partly
concealing and partly revealing1 than
i, doing away absolutely with shoul
der or bodice draperies. This may
account for the new sleeve, which
A mori'isli wide trimmed hat of l?l
ark velvet, and an aftrrnoon Mii't of
V hlte broadcloth trimmed witli large
bands uf skunk fur.
V? V j ..w. 1
pnorro intcrnational nw service
A girlish frock of pray taffeta and
after a tentative appearance is In a
way to be generally adopted.
This sleeve is usually composed of
maline, tulle or Georgette crepe. It is
cut rather wide and lightly gathered to
the shoulder. What would ordinarily
be an inside seam is left open, ex
cepting where it is tacked just at the
bend of the elbow and where it is
caught at the wrist. This brings into
view the prettiest part of the arm and
conceals elbows that sometimes are a
Rafher interesting is the bracelet
idea used to bard the sleeve at the
wrist. If one is in possession of an
antique bracelet so much the better;
or she may hie herself to a dealer in
old jewelry and select therefrom a
modern replica of some old-time piece.
While the V-shaped necks have
been in vogue for many seasons they
by no means have the field to them
selves in the cutting of the evening
bodice. Several of the newest models
incline to the square-shaped front
with a V-back, and others have the
baby outline, both back and front,
topped by a make-believe chemise of
tulle shirred over a gold or silver cord.
For the last three or four winters
designers, both in Paris and in this
country, have mad the back of the
dress of greater decolletage than the
front. In this thero is a certain
amount of mock modesty, which is
becoming when the wearer of the
frock is young and is not burdened
with, too, too solid flesh.
In some quarters an effort is bein
made to resuscitate the trained gown.
It has dignity to recommend it to
those who feel a little awkward and
cut-off in the modish short frock. It
seems safe, however, to say that the
dress with the trailing appendage will
not be restored to its old position
during this season, and the prospects
are not very greatly in its favor for
Dancing has dene splendid work in
accustoming: women of all heights and
breadths to the wearing of the short
skirt for day and evening occasions.
"Clear and cold," grumbled Danny,
the small, disgruntled god, peering at
the thermometer with a cold eye.
"Clear and cold; remarkably frosty,
in fact, and growing more bitter at
every beat of the heart in my breast.
Icicles gather on my strawberry hued
nose; they overhang my cold cheek9
and jab my baby skin at every numb
bite. My eye grows fishy; my lashes
gather a cracking rime; my body
turns slowly a delicate orchid hue; my
ears tinsle as with a thousand colored
stars. The stars crackle with the
bursting cold, and the lake of the sky
freezes fast around them. B-l-1-1-1!
"For my lovers have quarreled!
They don't drink their hot coffee and
eat the ffrateful roll, but I do mint..
ind while I feast I hope for milder
FLOUNCES, WILL REPLACE OVERDRAPERIES, WHICH HAVE OUTWORN FASHION'S FAVOR
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" Semi-fit ting- clalwirate iieliroj. jnade of pcao ;hannousp, coat of
"ailver lace, mules of silver iax: and xarb, cap of seU-rnaicriaL
Wfe; WIS ?
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, BIX VI UN tiT
si rim VV
l I if r I Mill fll w
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V-&iti&x vi 4 .1.1
Mod Is! t drc.-.s or white eloth witu unique pox'ket effect. ol
lar id ei.ucu.e. Mult decoration adds to liaim of costume.
BT GERMAIXE GAUTIER.
There is a disposition to get away
from overdraped effects such as have
been thrust on one's patient notice for
the last month or two. It is not that
draperies are ungraceful in them
selves, but they have lacked variety
in their arrangements, and so a re
turn to certain of the flounced ef
fects seems imminent.
The flounces are, indeed, reminis
cent of the Traviata scheme of dress
rather than that of the modified ef
fects which were very popular less
than twelve months ago. In other
words, the skirt does not boast of
more than three flounces and some
times of only two, and these are cut
very full and are usually distended by
a reed or hoop to give a greater re
semblance to the style of dress worn
by the heroine of Verdi's popular
Just now the woman of fashion se
lects an evening gown of yellow, rose,
purple or Garibaldi red when she
does not favor all black or black and
Black velvet is very often combined
with black tulle by way of marked
fabric contrast. Vor instance, a very
unusual model has the skirt of black
velvet dropped with an irregular hem
beneath a long shawl drapery of tulle
which is bordered With fur. The fur
serves not only as a decoration, but it
keeps the hem in an outstanding and,
therefore, very modish line.
Quite a little gray has been used
in the composition of afternoon and
evening frccks. The fabrics most
liked are chiffon. Georgette crepe,
tulle and soft atin. It is a fad just
now tc trim the gray irock with fox
that has been dyed jut the tone of
the fabric. As a matter of fact, gray
fox is one of the smartest and newest
things in the fur realm.
A girlish afternoon dress :s offered
in a model made of gray chiffon
which is -encircled by flounces of fine
ly plaited gray taffeta. These flounces
are spaced so as to show band -like
revelations of the foundation fabric.
The skirt escapes the ground by abou
seven inches and this adds to its
High gray shoes should be worn
with this sort of dress; or, if one pre
fers, the shoes may be low. made of
suede or glazed kid and completed by
silk hosiery; both the latter and the
low shoes should be of the gown color.
Leather ska tl con t of American
Beauty, collar of black velvet, red
lea tlier button (ou the right).
Heart and Beauty
occoo Problems xx
"Written for the State Journal
iiy Mrs. Elizabeth Thompson.
Dear Mrs. Thompson: I am a girl
almost eighteen years of age. About
two years ago at an entertainment I
met a youn gentleman. Wo went
together on the sly for a while and
then wrote letters to each other. My
mother got hold of one of those let
ters at one time and refused to let
me read it. I've seen him since then
and told him not to write any more
letters. He said lie wouldn't and iie
kept his promise. lie called me ;in a
number of times end I hun;r up the
receiver. One night a girl friend of
mine ana i were oat watKing ami we
went oy his place. A. young cou pit
had just cot married and thi.io was a
bunch of boys celebrating. I spoke
to him and he and one of his friends
followed me. He asked me for a elate
and I said "Yes." Now my mother
doesn't know that I am going One
of my girl friends is goiny a Ions and
he is .oing to bring one of hi boy
friends for her. Xow, Mrs. Thompson,
I do wish you wouid please giv? ine i
some good advice along this line. Shf-U j
I tell him I won't go? I like him!
very well and would hat to do that.
Or shall I go with him this tim and
ask him what he wrote thit made my
mother refuse to loi. me re;ici it?
LITTI-K MiHS WOHRlD.
If the young man i3 worthy t f your
friendship, he will b willir ; to cull
upon year mother and try to win her
consent to let you go with hint. Write
and asx. him to do this, and in the
same letter tell him that you will not
be able to keep your date with him
unless your mother conten:.s to let
Dear Mr?. Thompson: I have been
asktd to go to the theater vith a
young man and my younger sister
wants to go with us very badly.
Mother says that I should t-U ihe
man I want to take her and then ift
sister 1 ay per own way. What do
you thmk I should do?
Don't say anything to the young
man. Let sister go to a matinee.
Dear Mrs. Thompson: (1) My broth
er has a camera. Would there be any!
harm ir having my picture taken with I
one of his buy chums who Is here on a I
(2) Is there any harm in riding at
bicycle; also a motorcycle?
(1) Xo. :
2) A girl on a motorcycle is too
conspicuous, and a large girl on a
bicycle looks eccentric. There is noth- :
ing morally wrong in riding them. j
You have said that the man is j
ideal, and the one you worship cer- j
tainly is ideal because he is a creation !
of your thoughts and not a reality, j
Without knowing him you can be no i
! true Judge of his character. Don't let
your mind dwell on this obsession.
because you are depriving yourself or
much happiness that is rightfully
yours but that you refuse to recognize.
There is no way in which you can
force a better acquaintance without
compromising yourself. You might
become acquainted through church
Dear Mrs. Thompson: I am sixteen
and am going with a fellow my own
age. This fellow has asked me for
several dates. I accepted a few times,
but the last two times my mother did
not let me go not because it was he,
but because of the place. Please tell
me what to do so that he will not get
insulted when I do not go? I myself
am crazy to go.
As a rule a boy who asks a girl to
go to an undesirable place has an un
desirable character himself. But In
this case the boy may not realize that
the place is not all right. Thereforo
tell him that your mother does not
mind your going with him, but she
does not like the places he takes you.
It will not insult him.
Dear Mrs. Thompson: T want t
ask you a question about that recipe
to brighten light hair, with rhubarb,
honey and white wine. You said to
steep 24 hours. Does that mean on
the stove nr tn inat tsmi v.
over the honey and rhubarb for 24
Sleep it on the stove with the low
est possible fire.
Dear Mrs. Thompson: Can you tell
nV, 'her one can sell photographs,
which enlarged would do for maga
zine covers and that sort of thing
I have a photograph with a very
original pose of a small child and
would like to dispose of it in this
way if possible. GKC
Send it to some magazine publish
ing company that uses photographs
for covers and ask them to use it or
return it. Kn close stamps for its re
turn. Dear Mrs. Thompcon: I am seven
teen years of age and working m
boss is always finding fault with what
I do and mostly when a yoMrnr ma.
comes in or a girl friend. if hurts
me, and once I began to cry wnei- .
got cross to me while my friend uv
in I went upstairs because I ciied
and my friend came uo to mo ai,.l
asked me why I didn't quit n"t
somehow I can't. EveryboJv oiKlik
my employer and it is only l wo
keeps up the trade. What Would you
do if you were I? a
a . w iGIHL OP WKUOW.
A girl should not allow her frtenc'a
to come and talk to her during work
ng hours. Phe owes all of her lime
to her employer. It is interruption
from work which makes vour em
ployer Rr.gry, most likely, if i w, 1,
you. I would stick to my job, and
ask mv friends not to come in wm2
1 WW2rkinfir" Your sounds
morbid dear. Don't humor en Cn!
happy frame of mind r think of
yourself as a girl of sorrow. QL
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