Newspaper Page Text
.1 The L lefdks IASUIONLAND 7FeKsf 1iieii w~ eqefr &t / L ý ._. 722" _f ivo I T IB a far cry, indeed, since the good old days when John and Jen nie acquired in due rotation the garments of Henry and Harriet and when the "vlisitin' round" sewing wom an paid her annual call to provide from the same bolt of cloth, coats and breeches for every masculine member of the family. Now, if you please, little Miss and Master have each a carefully selected wardrobe, with coats, caps and petti coats to, grace every occasion of the youthful calendar. To such perfec tion has the outfitting of children been carried and with such taste in color ings and trimmings are designers' plans carried out in most inexpensive stuffs that women are spending ,less and less time bending over the needle in the fashioning of little garments. It really does not pay to spend six hours of valuable time in ripping, pressing and recutting father's old trousers into knickerbockers for Tommy when excellent knickers, correctly shaped and well finished, may be had for a trifle over a dollar. Hand Touches Add Distinction. The small daughter's pretty wear tays better for trouble spent upon it, but even here women may save them. selves the drudgery of many stitches by purchasing well-cut, simple frocks and coats and embellishing the good models with hand embroidery, buttons, cord trimmings and other dainty touches. Simple Styles Best 'or Little Girls. The overdressed child is a deplor able sight. A natural pleasure in pretty colors and dainty fabrics is the Wee woman's birthright, and her taste should be considered and encouraged wherever possible: but the conscious ness of clothes will spoil the charm of the loveliest child, and the little maid forever posing for admiration is a pit iful and painful spectacle. Sehool Frock in Practical Color. Nowadays our schoolrooms, like our homes, are so well heated that many mothers keep the small girlie in wash able frocks all winter, choosing me dium shadps in linen, galatea or the beautiful ginghams which, while the initial cost is %s high as for a wool material, wear and launder through several seasons with no diminution of their first charming prettiness. If a more substantial fabric is pre ferred, one may select from the serv iceable and attractive striped mohairs or challis or albatross in neutral tones of blue, brown or green. If the frock is for occasions more festive than school wear, scarlet will especially de light the little maid, who dearly loves a red dress. The wool Scotch plaids also make up charmingly into school frocks, and with pipings of plain silk and gary rows of gilt buttons they make bright and attractive frocks for cold-weather wear. The wise mother, of course, puts in the small girl's school frocks a gen erous hem-four inches being none too deep to allow for stretching limbs. Less Material Required With Guimpe. It is to be hoped that the pretty and useful jumper style will never "go out," so far as young girls are con cerned. The sleeveless wool or cotton dress slipped over a washable guimpe is a practical as well as a dainty fashion, and, with a generous supply of fresh guimpes, several smart little frocks may be managed at small ex pense, for the sleeveless jumper re quires really but a trifling amount of material. Little Girl Loves Party Frook. Did ever there live an embryo wom an whose heart would not beat the faster under the fluffy loveliness of a real "party" dress? All the loving stitches that mother fingers can in corporate into such a frock will scarcely be too many. Yet even in these more or less elab orate little dresses best taste demands simplicity of style; the extra work is put into hand run tucks, fine hand embroidering and entre deux seaming, rather than in lavish ornamentation of The ideal party frock is of fine hand-loom embroidery flouncing, or of sheer organdie batiste, and the small girl will be doubly pleased with a pale rose or blue silk underslip to match her sash. Many mothers realise the charm of all white on the young girl, and some of the loveliest embroidery and batiste frocks are worn without I shades, waist and skirt being joined with fine seaming or insertion, the only ribbons worn being the cris, white bows in the hair. The silk and cotton stuffs in pale tints make very lovely dancing frockl for older misses, and these dainty dresses should be fashioned most sim. ply with plenty of tucks, full, girlish skirts, and any lace trimming in fine insertions rather than elaborate edg ings. A Grown-up Opera Cloak. Nothing that the little girl possesses will give her such unalloyed joy as the dainty wrap that is distinctly for wear with dress-up togs. Considering the happiness that the party cape gives, the expense seems trifling. From a yard and a half of 50-inch broad cloth a generously long and full cape may be fashioned, and such a gar ment may easily be made up at home, with all the up-to-the-minute touches of fancy buttons, tassels, frogs and stitched strappings. The very modish little girl this win ter will also have her party hood, ex actly like the coquettish affair her mother wears over elaborate evening coiffures. These charming hoods are immense affairs of silk or cotton, gathered in baggy fashion to a full ruche of tulle or a strip of swans down which encircles the face. Usu ally a rose is tucked knowingly in at the side. Typical Directoire Styles in Children's Hats. For the most faithful expression of real Directoire and empire types, look in the millinery departments devoted to children. Here we find the "scoop," the "calash" and all the variations on the poke bonnet. Very bewitching on round, dimpled, childish faces are some of the quaint styles, and for a Paris bonnet for the wee daughter one may pay as high as half a hundred dollars. Fortunately many of the pretty styles are easy to duplicate and very little skill is required to fashion really lovely headgear for the little girl. The mushroom or Corday shapes, with their childish lines, are always in vogue for children's wear. Trimmings are usually of ribbon, with the big puffy crowns and drooping brims un derfaced with close pleatings of silk or lace. or lace. The napped beavers, with wide, sup ple brims, are considered particularly smart this year and are most simply trimmed with quills and ribbon. The merry little maids who trip with their governesses down Fifth avenue of a morning wear green felt or beaver hats precisely like their small brothers, and the brims are invariably rolled rakish ly upward at one side. A Pastel Coat is the Correct Fad. Small Mlle. Mode will have for cere monious occasions a lovely coat of pastel cloth, all in one-tone effect, with self-strappings and covered but tons. The coat will come to the bot tom of her frock and with it she will carry a big, squashy muff of ermine or white fox. Darker coats of Bengaline or Otto man rep. silk will be dressy and pic turesque, but the pastel cloth coat will bear the palm for smartness this year. For school wear a roomy, double breasted coat of tweed, serge or chev iot will be most practical. Much money expended on the small girl's coat is poor economy, for sizes are soon outgrown and the coat, of all gar ments, can seldom be altered without spoiling its lines. Luxury for Little People Who Motor. Big auto coats of tan leather, with strapped seams, and fronts buttoning snugly to the neck are ready for the lucky girls and boys who ride about in motor cars. Fur coats of gray goat skin and rabbitakin are warm and smart, and these furs are not ex pensive. For very little folk an ideal coat fabric is the silvery caracul cloth, which is light in weight and splendid ly warm and cosy. The material is so wide that very little will suffice for a well-cut coat, and with such a garment a muff and collar of gray squir rel will be charmingly effective and will delight the childish heart, which dearly loves anything soft and "fur ry." Even the Little Boy Must Be Manly. No more mistaking Reginald for his tittle sister by tactless visitors. Even before he tackles his A, B, C's his curls are lopped off even With his ears and his legs are dignified by bifurcated masculine garments. Moth ers, however, who are loathe to lose the babyishness of the tiny son hold ·.*· . J-·~I::·4E: · ....ks-. ...... c,1'bi atNL :lz~a fast to the Russian suit, which, while eminently masculine, may be pretti fled by many little mother touches of daintiness. The Russian suit this year has an extremely long-skirted smock, or upper portion; this smock falling to the knees and almost covering the dimin utive knickers. Very smart little smocks are slashed from belt to hem at the side seams, the opening being closed by buttons and buttonholes. Tub fabrics are tised for the little lad's Russian suit,, the linengand gal ateas being most favored, and colors may be as dainty or as serviceable as desired. Broad sailor collars of em broidery and hand-worked emblems make the little suits more babyish, but the average small boy prefers the turned-down linen collar and silk tie, TI/E WOR/f BAG c? alaOL/DAYGIfaTC No prettier or more inexpensive gift can be contrived than the always use ful little bags, of which nobody ever has too many. The cost of materials of a dosen gift bags will usually be trifling, and there are all manners of dainty ways in which they can be fashioned for various uses. Besides the always acceptable shoe, laundry and collar bags of washable linen or cretonne, there are various button bags, darning bags, chatelaine reticule bags, party bags and the clever steamer bags, which are long strips of stout material, to which are stitched multitudes of small pockets for toilet paraphernalia. The fancy workbag, however, is the which are more like "what father wears.'" Next Comes the Sailor Suit. When small legs begin to stretch too long for short socks, and the litte face loses its babyish chubbiness, the Rus sian smock must give place to the sailor suit. For the woolen sailor suit serge is the thing, and nothing i. smarter than the navy blue serge sailor suit, cut on shapely and correct nautical lines. ,This correct cut is as essential in the small boy's suit as in the clothes of his 16-year-old brother, and no amount of trimming can ever make up for a bungling or "home-made" cut. White for the Small Boy's "Best." For his dancing school suit the small standby of the giftmaker, for it may be a bit more frivolous in design than the practical affairs for more homely uses, and every woman can use sev eral of these pretty workbags, partic ularly in piazza time. One industrious little woman, who likes to have plenty of pretty needlework to catch up at odd moments, keeps in constant com mission five workbags. In one is an embroidered centerpiece in process of completion; in another a bit of drawn work. A third bag contains an un finished piece of lingerie; a fourth wools and knitting needles. Still an other bag is ready for the housewifely mood that impels one to initial table napkins. boy no longer has to endure the in dignity of a Fauntleroy suit of vel vet, with a girlish lace collar, draped over his would-be masculine shoulders. He wears a natty little blouse and knickers, made precisely like his ev ery-day clothes; but the fabric will be white serge, with white embroid ered emblems and a white tie of heavy silk. "Things a Foller Can Play Bill In." The small boy's out-of-door outfit should be plain and manly-and built for hard wear. A hat that may be doffed and donned quickly to make lessons in politeness easy to remem ber, and a coat that will not interfere with romping, racing and general boy fun. The double-breasted reefer, of The pagoda bag Is one of the newest notions for a fancy work receptacle. A picture is given of the pagodo bag, open, and showing its capacious depth. The bag closes accordian fash ion into a flat square. To make the pagodo bag, six big squares are cut from flowered cre tonne joined together as pictured, and each square is bordered with ribbon. An inner square is cut out in the cen ter of each section, and the material is caught up by four corners midway of the inner and outer squares. The outer edges tall loosely and the inner openings fit into the edge of the bag beneath. The bracelet work bag, also illus k r ,{n ···i :·':. :. ~· iY U 'i ·W , ,vl'Z v' ý r \ Z'ý r If ' ý ý :· : i y ; ~L~tWt aý " asiita3E1 course, is the particular property of the small boy, and if he wears a long coat at all, it will be for "Sunday best," when pacing staidly to church beside father and mother. Just now there is a fad for the rak ishly rolled back beaver hat in a dusty green color, and these hats are seen on most smartly dressed little boys. Very tiny laddies have Scotch "Glengarries" of fur or cloth, but the average schoolboy holds fast to his dear, particular hat-the little cloth skull cap-which is generally perched on the back of his closely cropped hair. Jack Tar Suits Always Pioturesque. Some mothers fancy the merry lit tle middy costumes with loose sailor blouse of navy serge over middy trousers of white linen. On the chub by laddies these little nautical togs are very fetching, indeed, and if the little throat can be left bare in truly middy fashion, with a big flowing sailor knot of black silk, the effect will be specially charming. NOTES AND NOVELTIES. Bands for trimming net and satin gowns of the more elaborate type are of beaded tinsel threads. There are also soutache' braided net bands, the soutache being braided directly on gold or silver netting. Many of the tinsel meshes of coarse filet texture are heavily appliqued with black or colored motifs and most of them have irregularly finished edges. Some of these fancy band trimmings are so wide that they readily form yokes and piastrone. Feather Band Trimmings for Tailered Hats. Many of the smartest hate for weas with serge and cheviot street costumes, or the English mohair tailored street suits, have trimming bands of fancy feathers. Those of heron and dove plumage come in all the fashionable shades and in brilliant tints as well With these bands no other trimming is necessary baond a cluster of pompons, quills or short wings. Buttons by the Millions. Black satin buttons of various sizes are used on new broadcloth tailor mades, the larger sorts being employed on the skirt to fasten the slashed sides and fronts of the coats, while hun dreds of infinitesimal buttons go on the bodice and sleeves. Sometimes the trated, is a capacious affair which will specially delight the woman who likes to crochet and knit. The particular bag shown is made of light patterned French cretonne with an insertion of satin ribbon and beading, making a pretty border trimming on the sides. The tops of the bag are shirred to two embroidery hoops which have been wound with ribbon. The sides should be left open several inches from the top, and the ribbon ends, tied into bows,-will keep the opening snugly closed when the bag is not in use. No more useful work bag has ever been devised than the large circle to which is shirred a deep pouch bag of silk. If the circle at the bottom is made in two parts, with leaves of flannel between for the safekeeping of various needles, the bag will be spe cially appreciated. Flat raffia discs come for the foundation of these bagp, and often the upper portion is made ot wide warp printed ribbon, shirred at the top and the shirring run with narrow ribbons. Stenciled work bags are considered very smart just now, and a bag of coarse Russian crash, stenciled in a simple, one-color pattern emphasized by bold darning stitches done with silk floss. Dear to the heart of every woman is the apron workbag. Every body-masculine as well as feminine adores a frivolous little apron of dotted Swiss, gay with ribbon bows. If deep pockets are provided for silk, needles and other. fancy work mater ial, the apron will be useful as well as fetchingly ornamental. Many of these pretty apron work bags fash ioned with ribbons run through bead ings in such manner that the apron may be drawn up, bag fashion, when not in use. A dainty addition to the work bag gift will be one of the handy sewing kits which may be slung over the shoulders while one embroiders. A long strip of inch-wide ribbon is weighted by being threaded through crochet rings. and to the ends are at tached shorter ribbons bearing tiny scissors, thimble and needle cases, emery and the like. larger buttons have a corded edge or are trimmed with soutache loops adi ating from the center. Buttons oen Ir coats are of the same character he those with velvet and silk wrapi. and rarely, indeed, excepting in case of mourning, is the fastening of matching pelt. The turnover Baok Again. The very stiff linen collar has h.-le into disrepute except for busidAs wear. Softer black effects are coaG-* ered desirable, and the sheer, embreod ered turnovers are being worn as13 in combination with fluffy jabots, rat bat ties and tasseled silk or velvet cravats. Worn thus, the turnover, of course, fastens in front like a linea collar, and the edges are held neatly together by a fancy brooch. The Little Bertha Tops Every Bedit. All sorts of berthas are used for trimming the draped bodices of crepe, voile and. chiffon cloth gowns. Some times these berthas are of broadcloth in a matching tone and embroidered in self-colored silks. Again they are of coarse net soutached, embroidered or appliqued in self or contrasting colors; but in nearly every instance they are shaped like the erstwhie popular jumper-the shoulder straep terminating just below the bust line and at the top extending out over the sleeve. To accompany these berthes there are bandings to finish the sleeve and narrow edges to finish the collar. The Waiteeat Warm a Well a aet The pretty little plaided silk waies coats Intended for wear beneath the jackets are destined to be the cold weather and women who purchased swet early in the season simpl. they looked smart, forgettting th the natty coats, slashing away 1 front and with only a strap to hol them together over the chest, t a scarcely suited to a northern wlnte The little waistcoats are interln with chamois and have satin b that exactly match the coat llIl Some of them are made with hig, snug collars whiob fasten 1n Iuero.: able fashion about the throat. The Separate Blouse to Matoh. The shops are full of pretty litti blouses of tucked net and satin. which come in so many various sha that it seems no woman need wear. costume that does not present the os tone idea. The blouses are quite .t1 ply made, with tuckp running lengt wise of the front and back and arou. the close-fitting sleeve. Small cover buttons to match give an air of smsa ness and usually a pleated frill of til satin edges, neck and wrists. SAVORY DISHES. Remove all skin and bones from ea chicken or remains of roast or boiled turkey. Put into a saucepan a gill of water, a pinch of salt and a smI piece of butter. When boillng, stir in as much flour as will form a pastl When it is cooled and smooth put it away to get cold, then take half the quantity of butter that you have of chicken and half the quantity of pasts you have of butter. Put the paste iuto a mortar, pound it well, then add the butter, pound It again, then add the chicken and pound all again for 10 minutes, add one whole egg and the yolks of three, salt, pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Work all well togeth er, pass through a wire sieve and st* in half a gill of cream. Shape the quenelles with two tablespoons; pla.e them in a well buttered sauce pW, leaving a clear space on one side. PAt a good pinch of salt in that space, thin pour in sufficient boiling water to cov er the quenelles and leave them to poach for 10 minutes. Drain them carefully on a sieve and serve them with tomato sauce. Broiled Partridge. Split a young partridge and season it with salt and pepper; dip it into clarified butter, and then into very fine bread crumbs, and be careful that e ery part is equally covered; place it over a very clear fire, and broil It gedt ly from 20 to 80 minutes. Send it to table with some Espageole sauce. Sauce Espagnole-Cut up sene slices of ham, a little veal, and any trim mings of fowL Put a lump of batty, well mixed with flour, in a saucepal; stir over a quick fire till a good braeh color; moisten with stook, a tumbl ful of white wine, and the Juice of' lemon. Simmer by the aide o the for several hpusal pass through a sieve, clear offt all grease, ad t with a little meat glas.