The Daily Missoulian. [volume], January 31, 1909, Morning, Page 14, Image 14

About The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961

Image provided by: Montana Historical Society; Helena, MT

                
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A LAS that only the pretty woman
Is charming in a negligee! Tno
boudoir gown is essentially a
revealing garment, and its revelations
are apt to be uncompromising for the
unfortunate who is not endowed with
at least passable freshness and fair.
neps.
Half of the charm of a negligee ii,'s
in its suggestion of informality; in the
loose sleeve that slips up to show
a rounded arm; in the unstudied folds
that must owe their grace to the per
fection of the uncorseted figure; in the
collarless neck which is trying to any
but a white and round throat. In
negligee, the pretty woman is at her
prettiest; in a Paris built negligee, all
afluff with lacy cascades and agleam
with rosy silk shimmering through
cobweb fabric, she is fairly ravishing
--and very well she knows it as a
rule.
But such an artful wizard is Paris
mother of all these intimate luxuries
of the feminine wardrobe, that even
the poor, plain woman's negligees are
calculated, like her gowns, to bring
out only her best points.
Negligee Must Make a Pieture.
The up-to-date boudoir gowns, lifted
from their perfumed Paris boxes, are
different from the elemental
Mother Hubbard and familiar and
frank kimono as day is from niah:.
In fact the modish negligee admits
of no slavish following of any precon
celved model. It Is built by an artist
to make a picture of its wearer, not t.
serve merely in case of fire, and every
detail-even to its blending with the
boudoir window hangings-is carefully
considered.
No more need one's bosom friends
who take unfair advantage of a tem
porary indisposition to heard one in
one's boudoir, hope to lqcov,'r by tl,,
revelations of negligee of one's inno
cent little beauty artifices. \V'.valays
one may receive in lanquid becoming
ness, wrapped in an entrancing affair
of silk and lace, with long shirred
sleeves covering one's arms to the
hand, and a frilly ruche about one's
throat which effectually baffles the
boring eye searching for telltale ago
marks on one's throat.
And 'as for the determined friend
who hopes, in finding one en disha
bille, to make certain about the au
thenticity of those puffs and other
tresses, she, too, will withdraw unin
formed, for the minute the front door
I F ONE is not as slim as a Wtand
the fault cannot be blamed on
one's lingerie. The whole progress
of undermuslin development during
the last decade might be epitomized
as "the elimination of the gather."
Not as much as a quarter-inch lap of
fabric anywhere is allowed to make a
fraction of increased girth possible;
and as for shir-strings, they are as
out of date as bustles.
The winter lingerie of the fashion
able dame has consisted of three ar
ticles-a silk combination garment, a
corset and a pair of woven silk knick
ers, petticoats as we all know, having
been temporarily laid on the shelf, and
no corset cover being permitted by
the arbitrary person who fits our
frocks under the present regime.
As the summer season approaches,
however, with sheer fabrics again to
the fore, and peekaboo frocks and
blouses en regle once more, the corset
cover as well as the petticoat is bound
to return to its own.
The combination lingerie garments
which made their first appearance
fr.m Paris a twelve month or so ago,
have taken feminine America by
storm. So great has become the de
mand for these well-fitting, comfor
table garments that now all the Jan
uary "white sales" offer corset covers
and drawer, or corset cover and pet
tIioat combinations for little more
than a dollar. Very dainty combina
tiop underwear is made of cross
dimity, simply trimmed around neck
and arm holes with a narrow edge of
lace and a ribbon-run embroidery
beading, a wider beading, also run
with ribbon, joining the upper and
nether garments.
embroidery beading though more
troublesome to set in that the lace
sert, and somewhat more expensive
In first cost, is always much more sat
ilhatory In the end; for the flimsy
las bWading is usually the first part
the h *emise or corset cover to give
A Boudoir Gown of o.
bell rings, out of the dressing drawer
may be lifted a ravishing "morning
cal)" of lace and needlework, and by
the time the guest has ascended to the
room the becoming trifle, with its rib
hon bows, is poised over the tempor
ary denuded cranium.
Pay Three Figures for Dressing Gown.
The negligee need not be extrava
gantly priced unless one wishes. In
shops one may spend from $1.25 to $125
for a pretty little "convalescent"
gown of dainty color; and at all
prices between there are adorable af
fairs in which one might get well
quite as becomingly. The chief con
sideration is that the fabric be of the
softest character and the color of a
delicate shade which will harmonize
with the decorations of the room in
which the negligee will be worn.
The negligees being made up now
for Easter brides are, of course, on
summery lines and of the airiest fab
rics; but with our sleeping apart
nents kept at ia tropical temperature
all witter long, the difference between
cold and warm weather negligees is
rather a matter of custom than
weight of material. Time-honored
habit apportions soft silks and flan
nels to the season when one dwells
indoors, in a steam-heated tempera
ture of 70 or 80 degrees, while flimsy
lawns and embroideries take their turn
when open windows and mountain or
seashore mists often drive the mercury
well under 60.
The wise little Easter bride will
provide not only lovely, lacy things
of cobwebby stuffs, but also some
comfortable warm paignoirs of cosy
flannel or wool albatross, and a
breakfast sack or two of something
warmer than transparent dotted
Swiss.
The Kimono Question.
The ideal silk for a comfortable lit
tle morning sacque, or for a gorgeous
kimono, Is the wide oriental silk
which is usually sold in the art
needlework, or even the curtain de
partments of the stores. Tl,' dceo
way, and special strain always comes
on this part of the garment.
Though the petticoat for the nonce
has been discarded, summery cotton
frocks will soon recall it to renewed
popularity. Indeed, many of the
clinging satin skirts of the winter,
when lifted, revealed dainty white
petticoats with lace flounces. These
petticoats were invariably of the soft
est materials-like mull or sheer ba
tiste, and the usual underdrop was
omitted entirely, a single delicate
tralling gown.
The finer grades of machine-made
flounce of the lace falling between
the silk stocklnged ankles and the
embroidery flouncings make exquis
itely dainty petticoats, and are in
finitely more satisfactory in wear than
lace: modeils. Besides, the lace trim
med skirt, in order to preserve its
airy sheerness and softness, must be
dry cleaned-always rather an expen
sive process-while the embroidered
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colorings of these silks and the bold,
conventional and flower patterns, are
just barbaric enough to give the
loose kimono a richly oriental anl
Japanesey effect. A kimono oc such
silk should be made most simply with
straight breadths shirred closely at the
shouluer seams and across the back,
and unshaped sleeves made of straight
widths of the silk sewed at one edge
into the split opening left at the top
of the side seams. Such a kimono
may be bound along the front edges
and around the neck with plain colored
silk or ribbon to match the prominent
motifs in the pattern.
Very dainty kimonos made in this
way can be fashioned of Japanese
ctrepc or the soft American cotton
crepe which is very Inexpensive and
comes in gay butterfly, fan and other
Jap patterns. Plain colored crepe ki
monos may be made very dainty with
border of flowered pompadour ribbon.
One dark-haired bride has fashioned
for herself an exquisite kimono of
patl buff crepe, on which she has
embroidered fluttering butterflies in
gold-yellow and brown silks. This
negligee has a satin ribbon border to
tmatch and a pale-yellow crepe de
chine sash, or "obi," to tie around
the waist. The dainty garment cost
this clever little bride-to-be consider
ably under $5, and has all the appear
aince of being an imported Japanese
kimono at 10 times that price.
A Bona Fide Jap Kimono.
Your true Japanese woman never
appears outside of her private apart
mtents with her kimono ungirt by its
confining obi. This obi, or sash, is a
broad strip of silk. which encircles
the figure and is tied high in the back
with t big bow, like a spread butter
fly, pinned to the kimono over the
shoulder blades. The kimono shown in
tile photograph hails straight from
Nippon land and is of palest lilac
crepe printed in a delicate wistaria
pattern, a shade darker than the fab
ric. Over tile garment are scattered
embroidered storks, done by hand with
A Cool lornk Gowrn
white and black silk. The obi of plain
lilac crepe has a deep fringe to match.
A pale blue kimono was embroid
ered with pink cherry blossoms and
had a lining of sheer Japanese silk.
A\ gorgeous black satin affair had
hand-wrought clusters of splendid
purple wistaria.
Every Peignoir Has its Petticoat.
In the kimono class of intimate
"room" garments comes the little mat
Inee sacque which one dons while
one's maid does one's hair-and reads
one's morinng maill over one's shoul
der. Into such a bewitching little
sacque the Easter bride will slip
when interrupted at her toilet by one
of her girl friends, who drops in for
a I0-minute gossip before dinner. The
up-to-date dressing sacque of this sort
always has its accompanying petti
coat, which increases its charm ten
fold. Even loose peignoirs have their
accompanying petticoats with lace
Irills and threaded with ribbon to
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petticoat may be made fresh and
dainty by the economical method of
soap and water.
These fine embroideries in showy,
openwork effects on sheer material, are
seen on some of the best Parisian
petticoats, and the drop beneath the
flounce is always of material quite as
sheer and fine, edged with three-inch
frill of simpler embroidery in a
matching pattern. It is not neces
sary to buy a wide flouncing for such
petticoats. The model illustrated
shows how the embroidery may be
attached under one in a group of
tucks, to a strip of sheer lawn, the
ideep flounce thus formed reaching
match the color of the negligee. As
for the sacque and petticoat, the two
garments are almost as easily donned
as a kimono, and the effect is vastly
more attractive.
Any amount of elaboration may be
iplaced on this frivolous combinatien
negligee-the more lace flounces, hand
embroideries, pin tucks and inset me
lallions the better. The sacque and
petticoat illustrated are of taffeta silk,
but for Easter trousseaus these com
bination negligees are being made up
of hand-embroidered batistes, dotted
Swisses, honeycombed with Val. lace
and fine needlework flouncings.
Embroidery is Fresh and Dainty.
Far more enduring than laces set
into fragile fabrics are the lovely
machine embroidery flouncings and
bandings, which are, fortunately, in
high favor just now. Unlike lace,
this fine needlework is even more
beautiful after a careful laundering
and the embroidery trimmed negligee
4ulte to the knees where a ribbon-run
)eading forms a pretty finish.
The elaborate lace petticoat, de
signed for wear beneath an Easter
wedding gown of white satin, shows
alternating strips of hand embroidered
tandkerchief linen and very fine
French valenciennes lace. The em
broidering of such strips in the sim
de yet beautiful design shown, would
make charming piazza needlework
for next summer, and when finished
the embroidered strips should be at
tached to the lace with a "rolled and
whipped" edge. The flounce that
forms the bottom is first gathered to
a narrow entre deux of seaming, the
upper edge of this seam being rolled
and whipped to the face. All French
hand-made lingerie shows this dainty
method of applying gathered fabric
to lace.
The newest of the hip eliminating
devices that are now flooding the
market is a corset which comes to the
klees, but this new corset is really
not as startling as one might suppose.
The excessive length is only in the
soft fabric, the six bones which form
the only stiffening stopping a few
inches below the waistline. The fab
•ic extends downward, completely cov
ering the hip and thighs and eight
short garters, four on a side, hold the
rarment fast to the stockings. Death
on silk hose as well as on hips, is
this new knee-length corset; but once
laced and strapped into this supple
armor, the figure feels really more
free and comfortable, than in the ordi
nary stiffly boned corset.
Rubber corsets are also shown for
the promotion of slenderness. Rubber
garments are supposed to prevent the
formation of adipose tissue, and the
rubber garments are supposed to pre
vent the formation of adipose tissue,
and the rubber corset, donned over
the sheerest silk vest or chemise,
really does reduce the waist and hip in
measurement. But the rubber corset
is not comfortable; it promotes pro
will outlast several affairs fashioned
with lace.
The embroidery morning gown
shown is a delightful garment which
is decidedly above the peignoir or
bed-room class, and is quite permissi
ble for breakfast wear. The arrange
ment of the flouncing over the arm is
particularly graceful, one strip of the
embroidery, edged with a frill of
narrow lace, falling over a second
strip which forms the sleeve and
which is finished with a wider frill of
the lace. The breakfast gown must
be belted in at the waist, and should
never suggest the careless informality
of a lounging garment.
Working Frocks for Housekeepers.
The little gown, which may be quite
easily and quickly donned, is a neces
sity to the busy woman who has no
time to spare on adjusting the but
tons, strings, collar and belt of a
trim shirtwaist. The convenience of
the all-in-one morning gown has es
tablished the wrapper habit, but if
a little thought is exercised, quite as
convenient a garment may be evolved
as the unsightly wrapper and one far
more pleasing to masculine eyes.
Delightful morning gowns of dimity,
or even of the 10-cent figured lawn,
may be made up with full skirt and
waist in one, the neck cut out in a
cool Dutch square, and skirt and wais
joined by a strip of embroidery bead
ing, through which may be passed a
ribbon to match the printed pattern
on the material. The skirt of such a
morning gown may be merely a hem
with tucks above, or a knee-depth
flounce. Easy laundering is ,of
course, the main consideration, for
the morning dress must be fresh as
the morning itself and suggest to the
beholder utmost daintiness.
One little bride who expects to en
joy taking care of her brand new
home without the assistance of a maid
is having made for morning wear
frocks of light-colored cotton cham
bray, which will be worn under fasci
nating pinafores of checked dimity.
These morning dresses have tucked
skirts attached to easily-fitting,
pleated waists, with long sleeves made
with buttoned cuffs. The neck is fin
ished with a round turnover collar of
white linen worked in colored dots
to match the chambray, the collar
being sewed into the waist just as a
small boy's collar is attached to his
Russian blouse. The little bride's
turnover collar, however, open a. wee
bit lower than the small boy's, and,
besides showing a V of white throat,
they will be most comfortable for
wear during the busy working hours.
The young girl who very likely has
never worn a train until she puts on
her wedding gown, revels in the
thought of fascinating, dragging skirts
fuse perspiration which is not ab
sorbed by the corset material, and
after several hours in a rubber corset
the ardent disciple of slenderness feels
a bit like a stiff neck encased in a
cold compress.
The rubber corset, moreover, is any
thing but beautiful, for the rubber
is of the ugly brown sort which the
dentist ties over an afflicted tooth
before the filling. In a smart little
corset shop just off Fifth avenue a
pair of these brown rubber corsets
was displayed, nattily embellished
with brown silk lacings and brown
ribbon garters with dull gold trim
mings. Most women, however, passed
this interesting corset by for an en
trancing affair of pink silk covered
with eyelet embroidery-the very lat
est French idea in corset daintiness.
Nainsook, now, is considered almost
too bulky for the "new figure" lin
gerie. Mull is the thing, or sheerest
batiste, for the chemise, which is
worn under the corset-unless, indeed,
one may afford the delightful luxury
of the embroidered Italian silk vests
which come in lovely pink and blue
shades, and are soft as wisps of
floss. The woman who has to con
sider expense will choose for her che
mise thin Japanese silk, much in
vogue now for fine lingerie. This
chemise will be fitted to the figure
with dainity felled seams and will be
most simply trimmed with an edge
and beading of lace at the top. To
it may be attached the full drawer,
pleated to a shallow yoke. Or corset
cover and drawer of nainsook may be
worn over the corset and only the lit
tle silken chemise underneath. The
best slender effect can be achieved,
however, by wearing the drawer-at
tached to the chemise-beneath the
corset.
France has more than 217 miles of
pneumatic tubes for conveying the
mail,' divided between Paris, Lyons
and Marseilles.
which shall sweep after her and com
plete her new made dignity. The tea
gown is the bride's own privilege, for
unmarried girls seldom wear these
trailing robes, so the tea gown will be
sure to be an important part of the
trousseau, and if it is the tea gown
that every little girl dreams about,
it will be an absolutely frivolous gar
ment and the one lavishly extrava
gance of an otherwise practical trous
seau.
Crepe de chine will be its material
or the softest messaline silk and, per
haps, over this silk will be hung a
drop of chiffon, held under the bust
by a crushed girdle of the silk. There
will be yards of lovely lace, though
better no lace at all than a sort that
is coarse or tawdry, and there will
be no ribbon whatever, for a tea
gown is distinctly not a boudoir negli
gee, and must never suggest such a
garment.
Some of the new tea gowns have
long shirred sleeves of net or chiffon,
which come clear to the wrists like
the sleeves of a formal gown; but
when this is the case there are always
loose oversleeves to give the flowing,
unconfined lines essential in such a
garment. A tea gown of the pale blue
satin, worn in a play now on the
boards in Paris, has long sleeves of
tucked chiffon, and fastened to the
shoulder are loops of the chiffon,
which hang over the arm almost to
the floor.
The tea gown may or may not be
open at the throat, but it must never
be decollete in effect. The prettiest
arrangement is a shallow V, made by
crossing, surplice fronts. The smart
surplice effects of the present mode
have the crossing very low on the
bust, and a straight band of lace or
embroidery underneath shows in tri
angular vest fashion. With a tea
gown made in this fashion a sheer
yoke and lhigh-neck stock may be
worn by the woman who has not a
pretty enough throat to risk the open
neck effect.
The Tea Coat Is the Latest Fad.
This year the tea gown has had a
rival in the gay little tea coat, which
may be slipped on over the trailing
skirt of any light-colored frock, or
have its own skirt built to match in
fabric and color.
The very smartest tea coats are of
all-over lace, though some very pretty
models arg made of alternating stripes
of wide lace insertion and ribbon.
One exquisite coat was formed entire
ly of Irish lace insertions joined by
entre deux of French Val. The tea
coat in the picture is of all-over em
broidered net edged with a border of
point d'esprit lace, to which, in turn,
is attached a frill of the same lace.
A BOOKCASE BY THE YARD.
A new kind of sectional bookcase
is shown in the department stores,
and moreover is offered not in the
furniture departments, but in the
book section. This bookcase is no
more than a covered shelf an inch
or two wider than the books, and each
section comes in a yard, or three-foot
length, for 65 cents. Of course, no
glass is included, but five of these sec
tions, placed one over the other, and
provided with a neat curtain, shirred
over a brass rod, would make a very
pcactical bookcase for a boy's room
or den, at very trifling cost.
ALMOST MADE CORSET COVERS.
Among the white sale offerings in
the shops are boxed corset cover pat
terns of fine embroidery, which are
shaped out under the arms to insure
a dainty fit. Straps or shoulder bands
of embroidery to match are included,
and it should be the work of only a
few minutes with the sewing machine
to put such a corset cover together.
Many women are buying these pat
terns, which cost considerably under
$1, for making up next summer on
the piazza.
A LEATHER NECKTIE NOW.
Narrow four-in-hand ties are shown
in exclusive shops, made of softest
suede, in smart colors, such as brown,
smoke, Dutch blue, olive, wine color
and the like. The tie is lined with
satin and is surprisingly trig and neat
when worn with a linen collar. To
match the leather ties there are natty
belts with gilt buckles, and dainty
side bags lined with silk and provided
wi metal frames and snap catches.
A new textile plant has been discov
ered in Colombia with a fibre adapted
to the manufacture of curtains and
other articles of household adornment.
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