The Daily Missoulian. [volume], March 21, 1909, Morning, Page 11, Image 11

About The Daily Missoulian. [volume] (Missoula, Mont.) 1904-1961

Image provided by: Montana Historical Society; Helena, MT

                
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r~~s 14
E VERYTHING for evening wear
is a-sparkle now with light and
a-gleam with rich co or. lAstel
tints, used as backgroundi, become
wonderful color effects by their over
draperies of net, encrusted with jew
els, sequins, bead embroideries and
the like. Faceted jet ornaments vie
with rhinestones to add to the scinti
lation and gorgeous American beauty
shades peacock blues and emerald
greens are crowding out the faint
colorings, until verily one believes that
the big band at the inaugural ball
was no more audible than some of
the gowns that was worn by the fair
dancers.
Of course, every woman who was
bidden-or by hook or crook secured
admission to the festivity-planned her
costume in keeping with the import
ance of the event. Newspapers all
over the United States chronicled the
guests and their raiment, and the frock
which, because of its special beau
ty, individuality or magnificence, won
mention and brought gratification to
the heart of its wearer.
Gorgeous Gowns.
At such a crowded and brilliant
event as the inaugural ball pastel
shades are at a discount. The lights,
the decorations, the uniforms of army
and navy officers, all took away from
the splendor of the woman's frocks
and some unusually striking color is
needed to cause any accent on the
gay kaleidoscope.
This year's inaugural ball was
sharply conspicious of "accents" in
black. Black has again caught the
fickle fancy of Miss Mode, and dash
ing all-black costumes, as well as
smart 'magpie-or mixed black and
white-effects are at the top notch of
favor for evening wear.
Black for dressy wear has had
rather a bad name for the past decade
and has been left by fashionables to
women of the half world, who have
given black in daring and bold ef
fects such notoriety that it has been
avoided by conservative folk.
AllBlack Frocks Will Be Seen.
Now that Paris has taken up
black with zest, we shall all fall in
line, and no doubt be once more im
pressed by Mr. Grundy herself, in
sweeping black velvet and rose pink
or creaking black satin and jet.
Sharply glittering black, rather than
airy and diaphanous black, is the
1909 favorite, and this is, of course,
readily explained by the modes them
selves. The clinging skirts and drap
eries, with close shoulder and arm
lines, are to be achieved only with
softest fabrics-supple crepes and
satins heavily weighted to suppress
the slightest hint of fluffiness. When
black chiffon or net is used at all, it
is so heavily weighted with et beads,
sequins and embroideries that it
clings as closely to the outlines of the
figure as the more obedient crepes
and satins.
Gold and Silver With lack.
The new black craze also is 'dif
ferent from' the last fad of its kinid
about 20 years ago, one is embarassed
at remembering-in its irtroduction of
gold and silver embroideries. A black
chiffon robe hung over a tunic of
gold cloth and showing embroideries
pf gold bullion on the chiffon was a
feature of $ recent entertainment,
and with this black and gold combi
nation was worn one splashini red
rose at the bosom and another-in
Spanish effect-behind the ear. The
woman who wore this daring costume
was tall and dark and the effect was
almost magnificent in its opulence -of
color.
From Paris comes a black and sil
ver gown, dbsigned for the inaugural
ball, we picture it in today's
illustrations. The train of black sat
in, embroidered about the bottom
with jet motifs, opens over a petti
coat of black silk, moired with silver
theads, these silver threads showing
on the surface in a blurred water
lily pattern. There is also a little
bodice of the silver woven silk, band
ed around the square decolletage with
jet bead trimming. The sleeves show
jet embroidery done in points on
black tulle and this transparent
sleeve is laid over white illusion,
which makes the arm beneath look
wonderfully soft and Snowy. At the
left of the corsage a pink rose gives
a color note to the costume.
The most interesting feature of h.s
gown cannot be seen on the seated
figure. The black satin train starts
from the shoulders at the back, but,
instead of sweeping loosely in court
train effect, it is shirred in an eight
inch-wide panel, which sets closely to
the figure from the shoulders to sev
eral inches below the hips, a jet or
nament being placed at the bottom
of the shirring.
Back to the Middle Ages.
The fashion arbiters are promising
us a return to medieval times, and
thi- is really not such a startling
Jump from the Directoire period as
might at first thought to be assumed.
The Directoire mode, it will be re
membered, was only a revival of
classic styles and the medieval effects
are taken from a period following the
classic when Byzantine splendor of
coloring was treeping not only into
the gowns of the women, but into the
churchly vestments as well.
This churchly influence in dress, on
the tip of every Paris dressmaker's
tongue, is shown not, as one might ima-.
gine, in austerer effects, but in long
stoles, splashed surplices opening over
tunics of rich colors, in costly laces,
jeweled embroideries, etc. The only
austere effects one sees in this new
"ecclesiastical" mode are the rope
girdles, now made of sparkling beads,
and the cord scourges, changed to
handsome passementerie ornaments,
Which have been borrowed perhaps
from the humble friars.
But the clever French couturleres
have accomplished such surprising re
sults from this melieval inspiration
that it is doubtful if any comfortable
father, frier or even cardinal of Good
King Dagobert's time would recog
nize his clerical habiliments in the
wonderous effects of today.
The "Stole" Gown.
One of the most gorgeous costumes
that visited the great ball at Wash
ington is patterned after the. medie
val ideal, and shows the heavily em
broidered stoles laced together in
tunic effect and dropping over a
straight slip of pastel pink satin. This
costume, shown among today's illus
trations, was designed by Margaine
Lacroix, couturier to the richest and
most extravagant coterie in Paris. It
is so fragile that four people were
required to lift it from its Paris
packing box-one to catch it up with
dainty finger tips by the shoulder
straps, another to hold the trailing
lengths of pale pink satin which'
formed the foundation of the frock,
and four other hands to lift and hold
the magnificent stole panels of em
broidered net, which are so sheer
and so heavily weighted by their bead
embroidery and gold fringe that it
would be dangerous to let them drop
carelessly by their own weight. These
gorgeous panels hang over the pink
satin slip from shoulder to ankle "and
are laced together with cords strung
with gilt beads, to form a tunic ef
fect. The gold fringes match the
lacings and the embroideries on the
panels are done with iridescent beads
and gold and silver ribbon.
Such a gown would create an in
evitable sensation wherever worn; but
the design r,'ight he quite easily
copied ini simpler style, with chiffon
or net beaded panels hung over any
dainty light-colored evening frock
cut over to hang in the simple,
straight lines of this ~r.n.
Hairdressings Also Medieval.
The revival of the medieval cos
tume effects is bringing about a rev
iohtlon in coiffure arrangement. The
pompadour has been an obstinate
"stayer." For long past the allotted
time set by hairdresser$ and fashion
- makers generally it has persisted in
remaining In vogue.
Now however, the pompadour has
yielded, and this practical and be.
coming mode of arranging the hair is
no longer correct-if one desires to
b he fashionable. A flat effect on the
Stop of the head is in vogue and
5 parted locks will be seen on smartly
dressed heads at the Washington en
- tertainments. With this demurely
Ssimple front arrangement of the hair
5 there must be a great mass of coils,
S puffs and curls at the back, quite
f low and in the sweetly simple Ma
D donna style which, after all, makes
s the contour of the head charmingly
youthful and graceful and makes ev
r ery woman with the least claim to
Sprettiness look innocent and unso
Sphisticated.
SWith these parted hair dressings
Swill be worn ropes of pearls or rib
bon fillets with big, barbaric orna
V ments low against the hair at either
Sside. At a recent concert where
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LoneBill Glv-o mbriderd Slk aove
T DOES seem as tnougn raanon
were determined to make us un
comfortable this summer. Nobody
really loves long sleeves in hot weath
er. It is conceded, of course, that
they are smarter than the abbreviat
ed affairs which bare not always at
tractive elbows in washerwoman
fashion. But as far as comfort is
concerned, naturally every woman
would choose the elbow sleeve.
However, we have all meekly ac
cepted the unequivocal mandate of
Madam Mode that the long sleeve is
certain for this summer, and some of
us have been recollecting comfortably
that after all a long sleeve and a
short silk glove are really cooler for
street wear in summertime than a
rith jet
aid Siilvr Threede
many opera stars, as well as fashion
able women, appeared, Miss Geraldine
Farrar wore her hair in this simply
parted style without a suspici9n of
a "rat" under the softly waved dark
tresses. At the back was a loose
knot of puffs held up by a" bandeau
of pearls which narrowed to a point
at it curved toward the top of the
head. With this simple hairdressing
the singer wore a clinging white
crepe frock, and was as conspicuous
among the crowd of over-dressed
women as a !lly set in the field of
yellow ox-eyed daisies.
French women are affecting the
hair parting just at one side of the
center for evnitng occasions where an
elaborate coiffure is called for, and
the hair is much more puffed out at
one sle than the. other. American
women, however, have rarely enough
dash to attempt successfully the
rather trying side parting.
An Egyptian Dinner Frock.
Whatever Cleopatra's wardrobe may
have included, she could have owned
short sleeve and a glove wrinkled up
over the arm. But this happy thought
is incoutinently nipped in the bud by
the news - again authoritatively
straight from Paris-that not only will
the long sleeve be worn, but that the
long glove will be wrinkled up over it.
And these long gloves are to he as
frivoluosly gay and feminine as any
that Paris ever devised. Embroider
les in white, black and self colo,rs, as
well as in various flower effects, are
shown on the new silk gloves ready
for summer, and all manner of smart
costume effects will be accomplished
by means of this touch or ornamen
tation on the gloves.
For Frenchy magpie, or black and
white frocks, of which we are likely
Eventbhe Wite
Irroc.K is fUilleted
no costume more ravishingly beauti
ful than a dinner frock designed for
aln importart diplomatic dinner dur
ing Irauguration werk. This lovely
costunm was of iatin in tihe tint of
the Nile at daybreak-a misty, trans
iucert green--and over this green was
hung a veritable daybreak mist which
the Paris builder of this frock called
"acter" net and which is a cloudy
bands under the net make gleams of
light against the green satin like
dawn reflected in the river ripples
and veritable sunrise shades of pink
and rose show in the embroidered
stomacher showing the winged hawk,
the emblem on Egyptian war helmets.
The upper part of the bodice is
formed of steel-colored tulle over
pink tulle, a combination which blends
the green-gray color of the frock
with the tint of the flesh most artic
tically.
Layer Effdcts the Fad.
"Once upon a time," complains a
mere man, "you bought your wife a
silk gown and there was an end of
it. Now she has to have three gowns
-one of the silk, one of net covered
with spangly trimming, and between
these two gowns a third, which she
calls a 'cloud' of chiffon, and 'gen
erally,' further complains this suffe;
ing husband. "it's the cloud that
costs most."
So it is, for chiffon is unceniaily
expensive and now not only our frocks
and hats, but even 0,ur petticoats and
our negligee must he veiled with it.
But the layer frocks are ravishing
ly lovely in their misty effects. and,
to see a plenty this summer, there
are dainty all-white affairs, quite dis
tinguished enough for a bride to use.
If the lingerie costume be completed
with a violet parasol and hat, one's
gloves may show little violets worked
with silk. If pink is the shade de
sired, rosebuds may be had onr one's
gauntlets. And, of course, there are
butterculps, forget-me-nots and other
flower embroideries showing dainty
colorings.
The new Niagara silk gloves, ready
for spring in all the smart embroid.
ered effects, have been planned with
a special view of matching new fabric
colors. Their embroideries blend with
the Irish berry shades, Havana and
castor browns, the dull greens and
itaily. o little of any one layer re- I
quired, in these days of scanty
skirts, that the "three frocks" of the
discontent "i husband's enllunerati(qy
need scarcely cost nmore than the one n
silk dress of good old days.
What would be lovellcr than a de
butante's dress of white chiffon fig
ured with a blurry rose pat
tern and hung over a white satin t
slip, veilled r "coludld" with rose
pink chiffon? With this frock, as del- I
icate as a drifting cherry blossom. t
were worn a pink silk girdle and at
wreath of tiny pink rosebuds in the I
hair.
At the same coming-out party as
nmatronll wore gown of grey net over I
amethyst satin "clouded" with chiffon
of the same shade and cabachons of I
amethyst set in dull silver caught the t
not at bust and knee.
American Beauty Fashionable Color.
The deep "heart of a rose" Amerl
can I;eauty shade seems ai bit flan- I
hoyant for a whole grown; but this
color has been seen onon several very
smart society women this winter. Of
course, such a deep rose color, in a
one-tone costume, would be danger
ous for any but a master hand to at- 4
tempt; and t,vo American lBeauty
gowns at one function would be un
fortunate for each one. Only a very
vivid, dark woman could safely wear
this emphatic shade, but the two
beauties who have worn it this sea
son have proved how attractive it
can be-on the right woman.
The pretty, dark-haired daughter of
Mrs. George Gould wore at her debut
-the most important dinner-dance of
the winter-a tulle frock In American
Beauty color, and in her corsage, hair
and hands were great, glowing Amer
i ican Beauty roses.
The same deep rose color was seen
on a dark-haired young matron at
the premiere performance of "Sa
lome." where stalls and boxes cost
fabulous prices. A corsage bouquet
of red roses also completed the rich
color harmony of this gown, which
was of satin.
WOMEN AND THEIR FADS.
Never was there such a craze for
artificial blooms for evening as well
blues, which are seen in linens and I
mohairs as well as in wool and silk
materials. The makers of these gloves
seem to have mastered the secret of
'ilk that wears, and, furthermore, in
buying a pair of the embroidered
gloves one has the satisfaction of
knowing that the embroidery, whichi
is, of course, the expensive feature of
the glove, will do service throughout
the entire season. There is a row of
fagot stitching at the wrist in brace
let effect, which joins the hand por
tion to the embroidered upper part,
and when the finger tips begin to
wear out the glove may be "rehand
ed" by the makers.
For wear with tailored waists and
long-sleeved coats, the short silk
glove will be more practical, and
though these gloves comle in tans,
grays and black as well as white,
most women pIrefer to wear only
white silk gloves in sulmmer time.
White gloves always have a cool and
dainty look, andi white silk gloves,
also, do not show wear traces like the
darker sort in which a pinhole is
plainly visable over the skin of the
hand. White gloves are easily kept
fresh and may be washed and dried
over night or in a couple of hours
near artificial heat.
In buying white silk gloves for sum
mer it is wisest to get two or three
pairs exactly alike. Then the pairs
may be interchanged, the gloves show
ing signs of wear discarded and the
better ones mated together.
The woman who is planning a long
traveling outing will be wise to es
chew silk gloves and provide a
loose pair of one-clasp mannish kid
gloves. Silk gloves soon wear out
when compelled to handle heavy
traveling bags and make frequent
change, and constant contact with
Sreasy and smoke-blackened .railirngs,
car window frames and the like soon
rob the gloves of their fresh dainti
ness. Kid gloves for summer travel
3ing wear, however, must be rather
loose and mannish in style, for a rail
road trip on a hot day will ruin a pair
of close-fitting, dressy kid gloves,
which are not easily drawn on and
off.
WHERE THE WOMEN PROPOSE.
Away off in the strange island of
I New Guinea it is leap year all the
as street wear. All the big shoape
now have special flower counters,
where in glass vases and other re
cel tacles are displayed make-believe
roses, violets, orchids, gardenlas and
other blossoms high in JAshon's fa
vor at the moment. Al so natural
are these flowers-especially when
sprayed with perfume derived from
the real flower .icents-that It seems
really a pity to spend pennies for
po4les that would fade. Of course, all
the florists are tearing their hair at
this eccentric notion ,of wearing fake
flowers and in consequence the lover
of red flowers may possess them il
generous quantities this winter at de
lightfully little cost.
The pale lavender satin gown with
bandsl of am.ethyst and r, eari embroid
ery. shown among today's pictures.
has artlficial flowers In pale and deep
Iioauv shades fastened to the corsage
and also caugiht to the skirt at the
knee. This gown shows the new one
iled effect, a tutonic edged with the
ametihyrt and pearl banding opening
over at trailing petticoat of the satin.
Breastpins Now on the Brow.
Something new under the sun ev
ery time it rises! Now the breastpin,
if in rtund or oval shape-and best
of all if a cameo-finds a new wqy
to display its prettiness. When one
wears a collarless evening gown the
breastpin need not be left at home in
the pincushion; it goes blithely to the
party as a coiffure ornament. A fil
let of ribbon is passed around the
head from beneath the low hairdress
ing at the back and the ends are
caught together under the breastpin
just above the pompadour, or if the
locks are parted, over the forehead.
With a gold or silver breastpin a il
let of gold or silver ribbon may be
worn. If the pin is set with a caba
chon imitation jewel, the ribbon may
be in turquoise, amethyst, jade, coral
or topaz color, as the Vase may be.
New York has about 10,000 passen
ger elevators and 12,000 for freight
service, 8,000 of the former being in
office buildings.
A new English electric oven can
cook four articles at the same time,
yet is so compact that it is but 13 by
14 by 15 inches in size.
time in one important sense, for out
there all the proposals of marriage
are made by the women. It is con
sidered beneath the dignity of the
male inhabitants of New Guinea to
even notice a woman and consequent
ly the women perforce must notice
the men and must start any idea of
weddings, etc.
So when the island belle of New
Guinea becomes in love she promptly
sends a piece of string to the sister
of the lucky man. If he has no sis
ter she sends it to his mother or any
how to some female relative. This,
hecause the man and his male rela
tives are assumed to be above taking
any steps toward acquiring a wife.
Then the sister says to the man In
volved. "Brother, I have news; so
and-so is in love with you." If in
clined to matrimony the man makes
an engagement to meet the enam
oured lady. When they meet it is
alone and they either decide to wed
or drop the entire proposition at once.
There is no courting, for the man is
not allowed, theoretically at least, to
waste any time on a woman-not
even enough time to make love to the
lady or to allow her to make love to
him.
The bethrothal is announced and the
engaged man in New Guinea Is
branded on the back with charcoal,
but the woman's mark of engagement
to wed is never allowed to com
pletely vanish. If either one decides
to wed is actually cut into her skin
and is never allowed to completely
vanish. If either one decides to break
the engagement nothing can be done
by the offended party.
If the girl decided that after all she
sent the little piece of string by mis
take the mnan is apt, however, to
her. If the man jilt the woman her
catch her sometime alone and beat
relatives often hunt hint up and ad
minister a sound drubbing. Blood,
however, is seldom shed. as the break
ing of these woman-made engage
ments is not deemed a very serious
matter.
Though the women propose the
weddings in New Guinea the condi
tion of the wife is miserable and un
Just in the extreme. The girl is mere
ly the property and slave of the hlse
band. He can beat her unrebulad
and even kill her with impunity it
she incur his enmity.