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YOUR UNDERSKIRT MADE
ACCORDING TO. YOUR BUILD If You Arc Slim, Have It Gathered; Otherwise Fit It-Skirts Made of Silks That Do Not Rustle--All Have Ruffles. The shops that make a specialty of lingerie exhibit great quantities of pretty underskirts, with the ruffles and puffs and lace appliques arranged In such divers patterns that there are no duplicates to be found. A hoop that support underskirts for ball gowns boasts only the palest shades of violet, pink, yellow and blue, along with an unusual number of Ivory satin skirts. They are orna mented with innumerable frills of mousseline de soie and the other gauzy materials. The skirts to be worn with boudoir robes are hardly less elaborate, though their most characteristic features is the elaborateness of the trimming on the front gore. It is intended to show under the loose robe. Between the skirts intended for vis iting toilets and those designed to be worn with tailor-made coetumes there is less difference. The latter, though, are quite a bit shorter and never ex tend below the shoe tops. For their pretty frills and ribbons could not be trailed along the wet, muddy, winter sidewalks here. The preference for crisp, rustling taffeta for underskirts is not so marked at present. So many of the women of taste have a horror of announcing their presence by a great rustle of silk skirts, that soft brocades and faille are chosen. Then, too, a stiff rustling taffeta is generally woven with spun glass, which, while insuring a smart flare, splits at every crease after a few weeks' wear. A soft taneia RKlrt. uc Igusu to tm worn with a tailor built gown, was In a pretty shade of bright olive green. It was trimmed with a frill of silk that commenced on both sides of the front gore five inches in width and, increas ing in depth, reached half way to the waist at the back. At the top there was a pointed yoke, with narrow strips of blue green and dark red vel vet ribbon, arranged over it in a plaid. The same effect was repeated on the bottom of the frill, giving it an effec tive aqd durable finish. Another chic skirt to be worn with a tailor built gown was of dull red taffeta. It fitted close over the hips and was trimmed with a graduating flounce of the same, eixteen inches at the front and twenty-eight at the back. Black lace bowknots were ap pliqued over the flounces. A narrow trill composed of taffeta and black lace entre-deux, and bordered with a black lace ruche, finished the edge of the flounce. Two or three petticoats were made to fasten on both sides of the front gore, so that they should remain intact even if the skirt gaped at the back. When one of these underskirts is made to order it is designed accord ing to the purchaser's build. For stout women the upper part of the skirt, often formed like a yoke, is glove-fit ting. For a too slender figure defici encies are made up by having the silk gathered full over the hips and back. A skirt that was to be worn with a boudoir gown of primrose crepe do chine was made of faille in a decidedly deeper shade of ye!!ow. The apron was covered entirely with a dainty piece of ehantilly lace bordered with striped yellow and white gauze ribbon. The ribbon was arranged In bowknota and appliqued on the top of the skirt. Bix full narrow frills of yellow mous seline de sole trimmed the bottom of iii f 4 IN TWO BIKILT2 EASY TO COPY AT U OME. was deeper at the back than the front. The lower part of the flounce was covered with accordion plaited white gauze, with squares of imitation Brus sels lace appliqued over it in a line, with the corners touching. A full lace frill bordered the edge of the skirt. Entre-deux of the same lace headed 6D" ~9-~ ed I.L CE CREPE DE CBENE AN;D IIELI/)~W. the skirt. They extend around to each side of the apron; and the bowknots bordering them were allowed to fly loose. This, like the rest of the boudoir skirts, was long, for it really served more as a skirt than a petticoat. It is quite a fad at present to wear a short divided skirt of soft white silk with the white satin petticoats designed for balls. One that was made of ivory surah was very dainty. It was trimmed around the bottom with a narrow frill of English lace, headed with entre-deux of the same. Above the entre-deux there was a graceful renaissance pattern traccd in narrow white cotton braid. Bordering the top of the pattern was a puff of cream gauze finished with twists of the same. The long ivory satin petticoat that went with this divided skirt was very elaborate. It formed part of a bridal trousseau, and was,to be worn with the wedding gown. It fitted close at the upper part and was finished with a single narrow piping, like most of this year's skirts. It was trimmed around the bottom with a broad flounce that the broad satin flounce. A chameleon skirt, designed to be worn with a green corduroy gown, was made with a long, close-fitting yoke of shot copper and apple green taffeta that formed a point at the back. Be low the yoke were three broad frills NOVEL FLOUNCES. of apple green silk, veiled .ith acctr dion plaited frills of golden brown mousseline de sole of the same length. A ruche of applegreen and golden brown tulle edged each frill, and a strikhing trimming of heavy cream lace, caught in round knots and appliqued flat, bordered the yoke. When bought ready-made these pop ular Louis XVI. bowknots of lace that adorn so many of the pretty petti coats are quite expensive, yet any woman, by choceing a soft, pliable quality of lace, can baste and arrange these gracefully little bowknots herself according to a pretty pattern, and af terward hem them down invisibly, so that they would never be suspected of being "homemade" affairs. On the petticoats designed for even ing wear in pale colors I notice quite a preference for sheer batiste, or lawn embroidery, instead of lace. NINA GOODWIN. Coot of L.unchlu g a Warshlp. The total cost of the launch of a modern battleship often amounts to over $10,000. About five tone of tal low and over a ton of oil and soft soap are used in greasing the way-that is, the slip down which the cradle in which the vessel is placed glides into the sea. Clay Pipes. The British museum contains a very full collection of clay pipes, dating back as far as the sixteenth century. The custom of waxing the pipe end to prevent it sticking to the lips was in troduced by the Dutch about the year 1700. Her Employment. Mrs. McCorkle-How does Miss Sere put in her time? Mrs. McCrackle-Be walling a "miss" spent life.-New York, World WEALTH IN LITTLE THINGL. Great Fortunes wave Been Dllat Up oa smami taventtonas It has become almost an axiom with the majority that larger fortunes are to be raised from some simple inven tion than from dificult and expensive inventions that involve a great outlay of money to manufacture. This is to a certain extent true. A certain patent for fastening kid gloves has yielded a fortune of several hundred thousand dollars for its fortunate owner, and the inventor of a collar clasp enjoys $20, 000 royalty a year as the reward for his endeavor. A new kind of sleeve by' ton has made $50,000 in five years fo. its patentee, and the simple twisting of safety pins in such a way that there is no possible danger of the point sticking in the child promises to en rich its owner beyond any of his early dreams of wealth. A man one day turned a piece of wire so as to hold a cork more securely in a bottle, and forthwith somebody saw a brilliant idea, and patented the modern wire stopple holder, which is now used an nually on several million bottles. The accidental bending of a hairpin by a woman to prevent it from sliding out of her hair so easily produced a for tune for her husband, who immediately saw the possibilities of a crinkled hair pin for women. Instances could be multiplied indefinitely of large fortunes being made from small inventions, but fortunately for those inventors who make a life study of intricate problems of mechanics and disdain to waste their talents upon trivial, popular arti cles of the day, there is often also am ple reward held in store for the prod ucts that take years to reduce and which revolutionize existing methods of industry and mechanics. Edison has reaped honors and riches of a princely character from his discover ies; McCormick has realized in his reaper the fortune of a millionaire; the Corliss engine brought honors and dec orations to its inventor and enabled him to amass a great fortune in a few years; Professor Bell found in his telephone not only the consummation of his early hopes and ambitions, but a substantial pecuniary reward: Har veyized steel armor has become syn onymous with the inventor's name, and it brings an annual income of huge proportions to its discoverer; EliaE Howe, the inventor of the sewing ma chine. realized millions from his in ventions, and Nikola Tesla, though still young and rich in promisea, finds an abundance of money in his work. USE OF THE HOUSE OF LORDS Sort of Passive Watchdog for the British Constltutlon. The house of lords cannot now pro fess to make the laws of the nation, but it- can, and does, prevent vast changes being made in the constitu tion by a snap vote or a scratch ma Jority, says the Spectator. It does for the British constitution what a writ ton nrinmern~t nnalterable excent un ier certain special conditions, does ror other forms of government. But for it the whole of our laws and liberties would lie at the mercy of any man who could get control of the house of com mons for twenty-four hours. It con siders all legislation, and though In practice it seldom ventures to make changes, it is able to Insist on a refer ence to the country if it holds that a great and far-reaching revolution is being made without the electors be ing really aware of what is happen ing. In fact, it views the laws sent up to it in the light of this question: "Ought this law, if not amended, to be rejected until it has been referred to the nation with the demand. 'Is it your pleasure that this bill shall be come law?'" The house of lords is, in a word, an old servant who has passed out of active employment, but still holds one very important office t.. ,,, n.itnni hnnachn1,i The msaatr has said to him in effect: "You are past very active work, and I do not expect you to take any great share in the regular routine of law-making. That must, as a rule, be left, like all the accounts, to my younger servants. I should like you, however, to keep an eye upon them, and if you notice something being done which appears to you quite contrary to my wishes and to sound management, I want you to help it until I have been asked whether I really want it carried out. Of course you must not always be worrying me with such questions, nor do I want you to refer things back to me merely because you do not like them yourself. I only want to be ap pealed to when you feel reasonably sure that I shall object to what is pro. posed." UNDER THE ILAUtK VLAU. Two Women Known to Have Been Pirates on the Spanish Main. In the old days, when piracy flour isbed along the Spanish main and when buccaneers had headquarters in many islands of the West Indies, Mary Read and Anne Bonny sailed under the black flag. The first named was an English girl who had worn boy's clothing from childhood to hide a fam ily secret. For a while she served on an English warship and then sailed for Cuba on a merchant vessel, which was captured by pirates. She joined the gang and thus met Anne Bonny. The latter was also disguised as a man, and, not knowing Mary to be a female, fell in love with her, revealing her own sex. Mary was then obliged to make a similar revelation. The pair served at their profession for many years. Finally they were taken pris oners by a war vessel. Mary Read was sent to a prison in Jamaica, where she ended her days. What became of Anne is not known. THE WAY ETC IS HARD SUDDEN CLOSING OF A CA REER OP CRIME. Wattle Mhbeoae Was Shet on a Grass 1rown Roadside, W~hleldlag a Bratal Ian-Trag· e Stoty of Misgladed OGirl Who Loved a M8t nrderer. HEN Howard Clark and Mattle Mahon ey were shot to death by officers of the law in Indiana two life stories were ended that from the first al most were cast in sin and shadow. . Howard Clark was born in Louisville aDOUL tnirry-two years ag0. lat vey rents were people of the middle class, thoroughly respectable and in tolerable circumstances. They still live there, and the other day they were the only ones to follow their son to his grave. From boyhood he showed evil pro pensities. He never learned a trade and never worked. He preferred a dishonest means of gaining a living to the many honest avenues that were opened to him. He was a bad boy, and when he grew to young manhood he grew worse, instead of mending his ways. His associates were people of the lowest order, and his intimacy with criminals seemed a matter of course. Soon he became known to the police as a man who could do a bit of work as neatly as the most experienced crook. He was also considered dangerous, for while he had never been concerned in many rows he was of a sullen, dog ged disposition. He was arrested sev eral times on suspicion of having been connected with burglaries and petty thefts, but it was never found possi ble to convict him. He married a woman named Mrs. Burns, and they had one child, but he never cared for her. About three years ago a burglar gained a sort of renown in Louisville as "the only man who could beat the slot machines." The little devices were in their heyday. Suddenly there were reported to the police almost every day cases of slot machines that had been broken open with an ax the night before and robbed of their cash. More than 100 machines were robbed in this way. The burglar was never run to earth, but the police found that Clark was the man who did all the work. But, as usual, they could not make a case against him. He was shrewd, and was also fortunate in nev er being caught at work. About two years ago there was living in the Orphanage of the Good Shep herd a girl named Mattle Mahoney. She was only fifteen years old, and was there because her mother was too poor to keen her. Clark went to the home one day with a companion wno was engaged in some painting. There he saw the girl. She was pretty, and he began a flirtation with her. Clark was good looking in a way. He had a wife, but that did not matter. He exerted his wiles on the girl with great suc cess, for in a few days she had left the home and no trace of her could be found. Her father was dead, and her mother enlisted the services of the Humane society and the police, and in a short time the girl and Clark were found living together with negroes. A warrant was sworn out against him by the girl's mother. The case went to trial. But the girl knocked it out as soon as she testified, as she swcre that Clark was not the man who had led her astray. She said that she preferred to live with him rather than at the home or with her mother. Judge Thompson dismissed Clark. From that time on the police kept them under surveillance. Clark be came identified with a crowd that was suspected of many crimes. He was ar rested frequently, but no case could ever be made against him. But on the IHOWARD CLARK. morning of Aug. 24 his career culmi nated. Policeman Joe Heffernan and a sergeant were making their rounds about 4 o'clock, when they saw two men standing near a grocery. Their actions were suspicious, and they walked up to them aid asked them what they were dolng. They said they were newspaper carriers, and on fur ther questioning Clark drew a res.lver from his coat and began firing at the sergeant. Heffernan stepped in be tween them and knocked Clark down. Standing over him he told him he was under arrest. Clark's answer was to raise himself on his elbow, take careful aim and fire again. The ball passed through Heffernan's body, in flicting a fatal wound. The policeman lingered two days and then died. As soon as he fired Clark Jumped up and Sran, and both men made their escape. Clark was suspected of being the mur derer, and Heffernan identified his picture from the rogue's gallery. A few days later Carter, his companion, was arrested. He testiflet' that Clarn did the shooting and was released, as there was no charge on whi. he could be held. Then the search for Clark began, but no trace of him could be found. xt we4 at if he had disappeared crom the face of the earth until Chief of Police Haa ger heard that he was in St. Louis. This was Sept. 1. Haager at once left foe` St. Louis. He tried to keep his move ments secret, but the story was pub lished in the Louisville papers and some one of Clark's friends notified him. He was in East St. Louis, and he came at once to Louisville. He must have joined Mattie Mahoney, although the police do not know where tket lived. On Sunday, Oct. 16. Clark walked into a saloon in the southern part of Louisville and bought a pitcher of beer. The saloon keeper recognised him and at once notified the police de* partment. Search was instituted. Clark learned that things were get ting warm and decided to skip out. The girl went with him, They went to Western Park, on the river, near Louisville, where Clark stole a skiff. Mattie Mahoney dressed herself i~ male attire and they proceeded down the river. No further trace of their movements had been ascertained until they were seen passing Tell City the following Friday morning. It was about day light. The Louisville officers suspect ed the mode of their flight and had notified all the towns along the river. The Tell City officers in turn passed the word that a boat containing two people had passed their city to the town further down the Ohio. Things were getting too lively for MATTIE MAHONEY. the fugitives, so three miles below Owensboro they abandoned their skiff. Mattle Mahoney took off her man's at tire and donned a skirt and waist. They struck out in the direction of Rockport. That night they spent at the cabin of a negro named John Yager. Clark shaved off his mustache and they made some efforts to disgutae tmemselves. Meanwhile Chief Pierce had gone back to Owensboro and had organised another posse composed of Marshal Taylor of Owensboro, J. T. Bell and C. H. Moseley. They went down the river on the Kentucky side. All day long they searched, but could find no trace of the fugitives. Baffled and dis couraged, they were coming back. A few miles from Owensboro the steamer made a landing and the officers be- ' came engaged in conversation with a fisherman. The fisherman told them that he bad seen two men landing in a skiff on the Indiana side. The offi cers immediately struck for the Indi ana side. They engaged a buggy and stayed all night with Homer Young, a farmer. Early in the morning they started out toward Roekport. They had seen nothing of Clark and the girl and had heard no report of them. They were about five miles from Rock port when a sudden turn Into the road brought them in view of a man andi woman sitting by the roadside abo?. 80 feet away. They stopped the buggy to ascertain if it was Clark, but the, crack of a pistol and a whistling ball told them it was their game, and that he was going to carry out his boas that he would never be taken alive. Clark fired two shots. Both missed. The officers had opened fire on him. Despairing of doing anything with the revolver Clark reached behind hini with a knife and tried to cut open the case of his shotgun. Mattle Mahoney, more devoted in peril than ever, lean ed over so as to protect him with her body from the bullets of the officers. A load of buckshot struck her in the side and she fell over in the death. agony. Clark raised up and a Win chester ball struck him in the left' side of the head and passed through both temples. He lived three houre notwithstanding the terrible wound, but was unconscious, The girl di. - almost ImmeausIewy. Gone to the Peosrhone. John Finlayson of Detroit, Mich, stepfather of the late Margaret Mather, is in the county poorhouse. The old man has passed his seventy-fifth birth day and is in feeble health. "I had no one to do anything for me," said i.n layson. "I could not do anything for myself. I don't like living on the county and would be glad if I could get a place where the work was light, such as watchman." Finlayson was once a well-to-do shipbuilder. Of late, he has been living alone and accepting such aid as he could obtain from his friends. Champion IPater. In fasting feats the sect of Jaip, in India, is far ahead of all rivals Fasts of from 80 to 40 days are vesy common, and once a year they are said to abstain from food for 75 days.