The Philipsburg mail. [volume], January 27, 1899, Image 6

About The Philipsburg mail. [volume] (Philipsburg, Mont.) 1887-current

Image provided by: Montana Historical Society; Helena, MT

                
YOUR UNDERSKIRT MADE
ACCORDING TO. YOUR BUILD
If You Arc Slim, Have It Gathered; Otherwise
Fit It-Skirts Made of Silks That Do Not
Rustle--All Have Ruffles.
The shops that make a specialty of
lingerie exhibit great quantities of
pretty underskirts, with the ruffles
and puffs and lace appliques arranged
In such divers patterns that there are
no duplicates to be found.
A hoop that support underskirts for
ball gowns boasts only the palest
shades of violet, pink, yellow and blue,
along with an unusual number of
Ivory satin skirts. They are orna
mented with innumerable frills of
mousseline de soie and the other gauzy
materials.
The skirts to be worn with boudoir
robes are hardly less elaborate, though
their most characteristic features is the
elaborateness of the trimming on the
front gore. It is intended to show
under the loose robe.
Between the skirts intended for vis
iting toilets and those designed to be
worn with tailor-made coetumes there
is less difference. The latter, though,
are quite a bit shorter and never ex
tend below the shoe tops. For their
pretty frills and ribbons could not be
trailed along the wet, muddy, winter
sidewalks here.
The preference for crisp, rustling
taffeta for underskirts is not so marked
at present. So many of the women
of taste have a horror of announcing
their presence by a great rustle of silk
skirts, that soft brocades and faille
are chosen. Then, too, a stiff rustling
taffeta is generally woven with spun
glass, which, while insuring a smart
flare, splits at every crease after a
few weeks' wear.
A soft taneia RKlrt. uc Igusu to tm
worn with a tailor built gown, was
In a pretty shade of bright olive green.
It was trimmed with a frill of silk that
commenced on both sides of the front
gore five inches in width and, increas
ing in depth, reached half way to the
waist at the back. At the top there
was a pointed yoke, with narrow
strips of blue green and dark red vel
vet ribbon, arranged over it in a plaid.
The same effect was repeated on the
bottom of the frill, giving it an effec
tive aqd durable finish.
Another chic skirt to be worn with
a tailor built gown was of dull red
taffeta. It fitted close over the hips
and was trimmed with a graduating
flounce of the same, eixteen inches at
the front and twenty-eight at the
back. Black lace bowknots were ap
pliqued over the flounces. A narrow
trill composed of taffeta and black
lace entre-deux, and bordered with a
black lace ruche, finished the edge of
the flounce.
Two or three petticoats were made to
fasten on both sides of the front gore,
so that they should remain intact even
if the skirt gaped at the back.
When one of these underskirts is
made to order it is designed accord
ing to the purchaser's build. For stout
women the upper part of the skirt,
often formed like a yoke, is glove-fit
ting. For a too slender figure defici
encies are made up by having the silk
gathered full over the hips and back.
A skirt that was to be worn with
a boudoir gown of primrose crepe do
chine was made of faille in a decidedly
deeper shade of ye!!ow. The apron
was covered entirely with a dainty
piece of ehantilly lace bordered with
striped yellow and white gauze ribbon.
The ribbon was arranged In bowknota
and appliqued on the top of the skirt.
Bix full narrow frills of yellow mous
seline de sole trimmed the bottom of
iii
f 4
IN
TWO BIKILT2 EASY TO COPY AT U OME.
was deeper at the back than the front.
The lower part of the flounce was
covered with accordion plaited white
gauze, with squares of imitation Brus
sels lace appliqued over it in a line,
with the corners touching. A full lace
frill bordered the edge of the skirt.
Entre-deux of the same lace headed
6D"
~9-~
ed
I.L
CE
CREPE DE CBENE AN;D IIELI/)~W.
the skirt. They extend around to each
side of the apron; and the bowknots
bordering them were allowed to fly
loose. This, like the rest of the boudoir
skirts, was long, for it really served
more as a skirt than a petticoat.
It is quite a fad at present to wear
a short divided skirt of soft white
silk with the white satin petticoats
designed for balls. One that was made
of ivory surah was very dainty. It
was trimmed around the bottom with
a narrow frill of English lace, headed
with entre-deux of the same. Above
the entre-deux there was a graceful
renaissance pattern traccd in narrow
white cotton braid. Bordering the top
of the pattern was a puff of cream
gauze finished with twists of the same.
The long ivory satin petticoat that
went with this divided skirt was very
elaborate. It formed part of a bridal
trousseau, and was,to be worn with the
wedding gown. It fitted close at the
upper part and was finished with a
single narrow piping, like most of this
year's skirts. It was trimmed around
the bottom with a broad flounce that
the broad satin flounce.
A chameleon skirt, designed to be
worn with a green corduroy gown, was
made with a long, close-fitting yoke
of shot copper and apple green taffeta
that formed a point at the back. Be
low the yoke were three broad frills
NOVEL FLOUNCES.
of apple green silk, veiled .ith acctr
dion plaited frills of golden brown
mousseline de sole of the same length.
A ruche of applegreen and golden
brown tulle edged each frill, and a
strikhing trimming of heavy cream lace,
caught in round knots and appliqued
flat, bordered the yoke.
When bought ready-made these pop
ular Louis XVI. bowknots of lace that
adorn so many of the pretty petti
coats are quite expensive, yet any
woman, by choceing a soft, pliable
quality of lace, can baste and arrange
these gracefully little bowknots herself
according to a pretty pattern, and af
terward hem them down invisibly, so
that they would never be suspected of
being "homemade" affairs.
On the petticoats designed for even
ing wear in pale colors I notice quite
a preference for sheer batiste, or lawn
embroidery, instead of lace.
NINA GOODWIN.
Coot of L.unchlu g a Warshlp.
The total cost of the launch of a
modern battleship often amounts to
over $10,000. About five tone of tal
low and over a ton of oil and soft soap
are used in greasing the way-that is,
the slip down which the cradle in
which the vessel is placed glides into
the sea.
Clay Pipes.
The British museum contains a very
full collection of clay pipes, dating
back as far as the sixteenth century.
The custom of waxing the pipe end to
prevent it sticking to the lips was in
troduced by the Dutch about the year
1700.
Her Employment.
Mrs. McCorkle-How does Miss Sere
put in her time? Mrs. McCrackle-Be
walling a "miss" spent life.-New York,
World
WEALTH IN LITTLE THINGL.
Great Fortunes wave Been Dllat Up oa
smami taventtonas
It has become almost an axiom with
the majority that larger fortunes are
to be raised from some simple inven
tion than from dificult and expensive
inventions that involve a great outlay
of money to manufacture. This is to a
certain extent true. A certain patent
for fastening kid gloves has yielded a
fortune of several hundred thousand
dollars for its fortunate owner, and the
inventor of a collar clasp enjoys $20,
000 royalty a year as the reward for his
endeavor. A new kind of sleeve by'
ton has made $50,000 in five years fo.
its patentee, and the simple twisting
of safety pins in such a way that there
is no possible danger of the point
sticking in the child promises to en
rich its owner beyond any of his early
dreams of wealth. A man one day
turned a piece of wire so as to hold a
cork more securely in a bottle, and
forthwith somebody saw a brilliant
idea, and patented the modern wire
stopple holder, which is now used an
nually on several million bottles. The
accidental bending of a hairpin by a
woman to prevent it from sliding out
of her hair so easily produced a for
tune for her husband, who immediately
saw the possibilities of a crinkled hair
pin for women. Instances could be
multiplied indefinitely of large fortunes
being made from small inventions, but
fortunately for those inventors who
make a life study of intricate problems
of mechanics and disdain to waste
their talents upon trivial, popular arti
cles of the day, there is often also am
ple reward held in store for the prod
ucts that take years to reduce and
which revolutionize existing methods
of industry and mechanics. Edison
has reaped honors and riches of a
princely character from his discover
ies; McCormick has realized in his
reaper the fortune of a millionaire; the
Corliss engine brought honors and dec
orations to its inventor and enabled
him to amass a great fortune in a
few years; Professor Bell found in his
telephone not only the consummation
of his early hopes and ambitions, but
a substantial pecuniary reward: Har
veyized steel armor has become syn
onymous with the inventor's name, and
it brings an annual income of huge
proportions to its discoverer; EliaE
Howe, the inventor of the sewing ma
chine. realized millions from his in
ventions, and Nikola Tesla, though
still young and rich in promisea, finds
an abundance of money in his work.
USE OF THE HOUSE OF LORDS
Sort of Passive Watchdog for the
British Constltutlon.
The house of lords cannot now pro
fess to make the laws of the nation,
but it- can, and does, prevent vast
changes being made in the constitu
tion by a snap vote or a scratch ma
Jority, says the Spectator. It does for
the British constitution what a writ
ton nrinmern~t nnalterable excent un
ier certain special conditions, does ror
other forms of government. But for it
the whole of our laws and liberties
would lie at the mercy of any man who
could get control of the house of com
mons for twenty-four hours. It con
siders all legislation, and though In
practice it seldom ventures to make
changes, it is able to Insist on a refer
ence to the country if it holds that a
great and far-reaching revolution is
being made without the electors be
ing really aware of what is happen
ing. In fact, it views the laws sent up
to it in the light of this question:
"Ought this law, if not amended, to be
rejected until it has been referred to
the nation with the demand. 'Is it
your pleasure that this bill shall be
come law?'" The house of lords is,
in a word, an old servant who has
passed out of active employment, but
still holds one very important office
t.. ,,, n.itnni hnnachn1,i The msaatr
has said to him in effect: "You are
past very active work, and I do not
expect you to take any great share in
the regular routine of law-making.
That must, as a rule, be left, like all
the accounts, to my younger servants.
I should like you, however, to keep
an eye upon them, and if you notice
something being done which appears
to you quite contrary to my wishes
and to sound management, I want you
to help it until I have been asked
whether I really want it carried out.
Of course you must not always be
worrying me with such questions, nor
do I want you to refer things back to
me merely because you do not like
them yourself. I only want to be ap
pealed to when you feel reasonably
sure that I shall object to what is pro.
posed."
UNDER THE ILAUtK VLAU.
Two Women Known to Have Been Pirates
on the Spanish Main.
In the old days, when piracy flour
isbed along the Spanish main and when
buccaneers had headquarters in many
islands of the West Indies, Mary Read
and Anne Bonny sailed under the
black flag. The first named was an
English girl who had worn boy's
clothing from childhood to hide a fam
ily secret. For a while she served on
an English warship and then sailed
for Cuba on a merchant vessel, which
was captured by pirates. She joined
the gang and thus met Anne Bonny.
The latter was also disguised as a man,
and, not knowing Mary to be a female,
fell in love with her, revealing her
own sex. Mary was then obliged to
make a similar revelation. The pair
served at their profession for many
years. Finally they were taken pris
oners by a war vessel. Mary Read was
sent to a prison in Jamaica, where she
ended her days. What became of Anne
is not known.
THE WAY ETC IS HARD
SUDDEN CLOSING OF A CA
REER OP CRIME.
Wattle Mhbeoae Was Shet on a Grass
1rown Roadside, W~hleldlag a Bratal
Ian-Trag· e Stoty of Misgladed OGirl
Who Loved a M8t nrderer.
HEN Howard Clark
and Mattle Mahon
ey were shot to
death by officers of
the law in Indiana
two life stories
were ended that
from the first al
most were cast in
sin and shadow.
. Howard Clark was
born in Louisville
aDOUL tnirry-two years ag0. lat vey
rents were people of the middle class,
thoroughly respectable and in tolerable
circumstances. They still live there,
and the other day they were the only
ones to follow their son to his grave.
From boyhood he showed evil pro
pensities. He never learned a trade
and never worked. He preferred a
dishonest means of gaining a living
to the many honest avenues that were
opened to him. He was a bad boy, and
when he grew to young manhood he
grew worse, instead of mending his
ways. His associates were people of
the lowest order, and his intimacy with
criminals seemed a matter of course.
Soon he became known to the police as
a man who could do a bit of work as
neatly as the most experienced crook.
He was also considered dangerous, for
while he had never been concerned
in many rows he was of a sullen, dog
ged disposition. He was arrested sev
eral times on suspicion of having been
connected with burglaries and petty
thefts, but it was never found possi
ble to convict him. He married a
woman named Mrs. Burns, and they
had one child, but he never cared
for her.
About three years ago a burglar
gained a sort of renown in Louisville
as "the only man who could beat the
slot machines." The little devices
were in their heyday. Suddenly there
were reported to the police almost
every day cases of slot machines that
had been broken open with an ax the
night before and robbed of their cash.
More than 100 machines were robbed
in this way. The burglar was never
run to earth, but the police found that
Clark was the man who did all the
work. But, as usual, they could not
make a case against him. He was
shrewd, and was also fortunate in nev
er being caught at work.
About two years ago there was living
in the Orphanage of the Good Shep
herd a girl named Mattle Mahoney. She
was only fifteen years old, and was
there because her mother was too poor
to keen her. Clark went to the home
one day with a companion wno was
engaged in some painting. There he
saw the girl. She was pretty, and he
began a flirtation with her. Clark was
good looking in a way. He had a wife,
but that did not matter. He exerted
his wiles on the girl with great suc
cess, for in a few days she had left
the home and no trace of her could
be found. Her father was dead, and
her mother enlisted the services of the
Humane society and the police, and
in a short time the girl and Clark were
found living together with negroes. A
warrant was sworn out against him by
the girl's mother. The case went to
trial. But the girl knocked it out as
soon as she testified, as she swcre that
Clark was not the man who had led
her astray. She said that she preferred
to live with him rather than at the
home or with her mother. Judge
Thompson dismissed Clark.
From that time on the police kept
them under surveillance. Clark be
came identified with a crowd that was
suspected of many crimes. He was ar
rested frequently, but no case could
ever be made against him. But on the
IHOWARD CLARK.
morning of Aug. 24 his career culmi
nated. Policeman Joe Heffernan and
a sergeant were making their rounds
about 4 o'clock, when they saw two
men standing near a grocery. Their
actions were suspicious, and they
walked up to them aid asked them
what they were dolng. They said they
were newspaper carriers, and on fur
ther questioning Clark drew a res.lver
from his coat and began firing at the
sergeant. Heffernan stepped in be
tween them and knocked Clark down.
Standing over him he told him he
was under arrest. Clark's answer was
to raise himself on his elbow, take
careful aim and fire again. The ball
passed through Heffernan's body, in
flicting a fatal wound. The policeman
lingered two days and then died. As
soon as he fired Clark Jumped up and
Sran, and both men made their escape.
Clark was suspected of being the mur
derer, and Heffernan identified his
picture from the rogue's gallery. A
few days later Carter, his companion,
was arrested. He testiflet' that Clarn
did the shooting and was released, as
there was no charge on whi. he could
be held.
Then the search for Clark began, but
no trace of him could be found. xt we4
at if he had disappeared crom the face
of the earth until Chief of Police Haa
ger heard that he was in St. Louis. This
was Sept. 1. Haager at once left foe`
St. Louis. He tried to keep his move
ments secret, but the story was pub
lished in the Louisville papers and
some one of Clark's friends notified
him. He was in East St. Louis, and he
came at once to Louisville. He must
have joined Mattie Mahoney, although
the police do not know where tket
lived. On Sunday, Oct. 16. Clark
walked into a saloon in the southern
part of Louisville and bought a pitcher
of beer. The saloon keeper recognised
him and at once notified the police de*
partment. Search was instituted.
Clark learned that things were get
ting warm and decided to skip out. The
girl went with him, They went to
Western Park, on the river, near
Louisville, where Clark stole a skiff.
Mattie Mahoney dressed herself i~
male attire and they proceeded down
the river.
No further trace of their movements
had been ascertained until they were
seen passing Tell City the following
Friday morning. It was about day
light. The Louisville officers suspect
ed the mode of their flight and had
notified all the towns along the river.
The Tell City officers in turn passed
the word that a boat containing two
people had passed their city to the
town further down the Ohio.
Things were getting too lively for
MATTIE MAHONEY.
the fugitives, so three miles below
Owensboro they abandoned their skiff.
Mattle Mahoney took off her man's at
tire and donned a skirt and waist.
They struck out in the direction of
Rockport. That night they spent at
the cabin of a negro named John
Yager. Clark shaved off his mustache
and they made some efforts to disgutae
tmemselves.
Meanwhile Chief Pierce had gone
back to Owensboro and had organised
another posse composed of Marshal
Taylor of Owensboro, J. T. Bell and
C. H. Moseley. They went down the
river on the Kentucky side. All day
long they searched, but could find no
trace of the fugitives. Baffled and dis
couraged, they were coming back. A
few miles from Owensboro the steamer
made a landing and the officers be- '
came engaged in conversation with a
fisherman. The fisherman told them
that he bad seen two men landing in
a skiff on the Indiana side. The offi
cers immediately struck for the Indi
ana side. They engaged a buggy and
stayed all night with Homer Young, a
farmer. Early in the morning they
started out toward Roekport. They
had seen nothing of Clark and the
girl and had heard no report of them.
They were about five miles from Rock
port when a sudden turn Into the road
brought them in view of a man andi
woman sitting by the roadside abo?.
80 feet away. They stopped the buggy
to ascertain if it was Clark, but the,
crack of a pistol and a whistling ball
told them it was their game, and that
he was going to carry out his boas
that he would never be taken alive.
Clark fired two shots. Both missed.
The officers had opened fire on him.
Despairing of doing anything with the
revolver Clark reached behind hini
with a knife and tried to cut open the
case of his shotgun. Mattle Mahoney,
more devoted in peril than ever, lean
ed over so as to protect him with her
body from the bullets of the officers.
A load of buckshot struck her in the
side and she fell over in the death.
agony. Clark raised up and a Win
chester ball struck him in the left'
side of the head and passed through
both temples. He lived three houre
notwithstanding the terrible wound,
but was unconscious, The girl di. -
almost ImmeausIewy.
Gone to the Peosrhone.
John Finlayson of Detroit, Mich,
stepfather of the late Margaret Mather,
is in the county poorhouse. The old
man has passed his seventy-fifth birth
day and is in feeble health. "I had no
one to do anything for me," said i.n
layson. "I could not do anything for
myself. I don't like living on the
county and would be glad if I could
get a place where the work was light,
such as watchman." Finlayson was
once a well-to-do shipbuilder. Of late,
he has been living alone and accepting
such aid as he could obtain from his
friends.
Champion IPater.
In fasting feats the sect of Jaip,
in India, is far ahead of all rivals
Fasts of from 80 to 40 days are vesy
common, and once a year they are said
to abstain from food for 75 days.