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The Rising son. [volume] (Kansas City, Mo.) 1896-19??, November 10, 1905, Image 2

Image and text provided by State Historical Society of Missouri; Columbia, MO

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025494/1905-11-10/ed-1/seq-2/

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Monograms on Handbags.
It Is tlu smart thing Id have your
tirnour.ini on your ha nl bac. Not In
plain brass or silver or ven in gold,
hut in ir clous Hones. This is truly
in age if i-xtravuganco in Jewelry
sr.il iiwi's mihI we I'unnot nfforr to
rrak d.sii "pci'tfully of the ladies
Of am l ii (Irene and llmiu', who
decked thorns' !i s with dam-ilm,'
chains ntul thought In-airy was eotiti!-i-il
I y ti e ai n ly of j w.'ls they won1.
The fiti nsi i! in tli' monogram
n ay le ithi r tin1 idrtlistnne or the
I'll s'oin1. and ilif letters are en
t .v i 11. .1 mi .is 'o make them as uniii
tt !hgii !e as I" s iliV'.
Pelisse for the Autumn.
For nu'nmu trailing tin" old fash
ion' i! .t lissi' made of rough poiu:rco
l a lawrite. Now- an. I tin n II lias a
lined, whiih may .o brought Into use
on on asion. The skirt of the coal is
f:aiiL'ci! on to th" waist ami is volumi
nous i iioiiuh to rriisli any sort of a
gown with whirh it may ho worn. liig
slooved wraps that arc separated from
tho capo by a narrow margin aro the
natural outcome of puffeil sleeves.
They are at their best inaile of tafft ta
or rough pongee. "Sling c ape" sleeves
that are familiar to some persons ami
that, by their name, describe them
selves to all otlurs. are among the re
vivals for long (-apelike wraps.
Cray cloth costume trimmed with
pray braided, dotted with black pas
tilles. Cuiinpe of tucked cord rod
chiffon. Mack hat with coral colored
Cameos Again in Vogue.
Cameos are coming back into vopuo
Spain, ami the possessors of old treas
ures In these may pet them out and
consult the jeweler as to their re
mounting, k chains with pendants
are among one of the most favored
forms of utilizing these, and bells of
cameos nt rutin topeiher with link
chains nre worn with thin and sheer
lingerie frocks. Some bracelets, too,
are shown, and the old fashioned ear
rinrs make up charmingly as buttons
for one's favorite tailoti d blouse.
Velvets have hardly bepnn to ap
pear on th" streets, but it is srobnli.
that later In the season they will be
nsod almost as much for walking suits
as for reception or evening wear,
l'.oth In coloring and in softness, sup
pleness and luster the new velvets
are si nsat ionally improved.
Simple Dancing Gown. !
That sal in is to assume much im
portance in the winter frock si heme i
seems 1 1 yi nd doubt. Satin models
nre many, both In evening and visiting
powns. and nothing lovelier Is shown
than some of the powns in this ma- j
terlal. One is made from pale prion ;
satin, with perfectly plain skirt, flar 1
Ing and full at bottom. The decol-
li te bodice is very pointed, front ami
back, and In front are crossed pieces
of the satin edged with tiny niched
ruflli s of self tone chlfton. A straight
piece of white Irish crochet lace runs
across front at bust line. One large
puff with turned cuff and chiffon rullle
forms the elbow sleeve.
Lingerie Blouses to Stay,
It Is decreed that lingerie blouses
are to be worn until winter, and more
than possibly throughout cold weather.
For the latter they are to bo furnished
with plain India silk undersllps that
will serve as linings, making them
warm enough for the house and for
the streets when fur Jarkets are worn.
Of Velvet and Cloth.
Never has velvet been more popu
lar for trimming than this season Rnd
almost every frock, be It evening
gown or tailored street costume, Is
trimmed nt least to some slight ex
Jnt in velvet. A velvet collar is a
foregone conclusion upon every coat,
whatever be the general nature of the
cut. A particularly stunning gown
Fhown nt a display of French models
was of violet broadcloth, tho smart lit
tle boleio effectively trimmed with
Ftltchod bands of cloth and velvet
covered buttons nnd velvet collar and
rovers In disipri. The velvet was of a
harmonizing shade of purple and the
deep girdle of silk matched the ma-
terlal. Sleeves were- trimmed nt elbow
with cuff anil strap of cloth and ruf
fle of velvet. The skirt was walking
length, perfectly phun and rippling
wlile around the feet. To wear with
the froek was a hat of violet heaver,
matching the rloth, with low crown
ami brim rolling sharply at hoth sides.
It tilts forward and is tilled In at hack
I hy a purple plume, which comes from
: the li ft side of (ho hat and falls over
! the hair.
jiConS idences
i When in (louht use ribbon.
j Some ol the liiiie new Y n-nchy hats
j have curls sewed under the brim.
The "lingerie" waist is out in the
: sofiest of white albatross, with lacey
; insert Ions.
Only that which Is soft nnd pliable
and tractable dare show its face in
; illessdoin. ,
1 The separate waist in black Is rath
' it novel. It takes elegant silk ami
i lace forms.
It Is to bo a most luxurious winter
velvet, satin, gold luce, and that
sort of thing.
Serge is a good looking, well-wearing
material, and will be welcomed
back with Joy.
Nothing is to ho quite so much
smiled upon as velvet, but none of
your stiff, wiry sorts.
Hair Braid for Hats.
Tho new est braid usul in I he mak
ing of outing hats is the hair hrald,
ays the Milliner. 1'p to the present
time very little of this braid was used
for other than dress purposes. A
hair braid hat which Illustrates tho
possibilities of this model Is made up
of two plati.-iux draped something
after the fashion of the Charlotte Cor
day bonnet, but more on the turban
order. It is caught at each side with
black velvet hows, which are fasteni d
with largo carbiichons of white hair.
Another style of outing hat which is
developed Into white hair braid Is a
Tani O'Shnnter; the crown of this Is
draped in black velvet loops and tho
nds are caught into a square black
velvet buckle at one side.
Pretty Silk Coat.
A pretty coat in dark blue rajah Filk
was made with the waist lino hlph un
der the arms and dipping sliphtly In
front. The waist had a little vest of
velvet, and was outlined on either
side of the vest and around the waist
with a Hat. bias band of tho silk sewed
on by hand. In front the band was
ornamented with four handsome silk
passementeries, with long silk frinpes.
A similar ornament trimmed the short
puffeil sleeve, which was further em
bellished with two ruffles of narrow
villi nclennes. Tho silk of the coat
was shirred and lump, below the knees.
Milk gravy can be made from fat
from sausages. L'so uiilk instead of
To seed raisins remove the stems
nnd cover the raisins with boiling
water. After live minutes or so pour
off all the water and the seeds are
easily slipped out.
Small i li ces of cotton hatting,
slightly steamed, make good dusters
that should bo burned after once
using. A medium-sized camel's uair
The flrtt costume Is of jrreen cloth.
The short shirt in ma do with Krnups nt
plaits nnd Is untrlnimi-il. The bolero I
slightly gnthiTi'il at the hot turn anil
finished with a stitched tmnil. The front
Is niniimi-iili-il with passi'mentr-rli! bran
ili'iitii igs anil hnlslii'il nt thp bottom with
n lull ef daiki'r vi lv-t. The revets ami
glrille arc also nf Ihls velvet, and ttm
turnover cellar Is nf i-nihroldi-ry. The
full stei-ven are tm-ki-d rtntww-lBe just
et the top nnd finished with deep cuffs
trimmed with the brunduuberK and bunds
paint brush Is most useful In dusting
the carving at furniture.
Tho broad ran needs wiping out
dally. Otherwise crumbs will collect
nnd these will mold. The moldy
crumbs will communicate their fun
gus to the fresh loaves put. In, and the
whole will be contaminate 1.
Lady's Norfolk Jacket.
Tho new J ickets nre out :f the beat
en track and very smart. Anion? these
tlo plaited styles seem to bo the fav
orite, and surily there has never boon
a style that Is so easily handled by the
home dressninki r. The Jacket proper
Is very plain, tnnilo with seams In
front nnd back extending to tho shoul
der. This is not only n newer cut.
hut it Is n style easier fitted than the
dart coats. After tho coat Is fitted
one has only to apply the plait over
the seam and the garment la practical
ly finished. The collar may or may
not be used, just as one desires. The
sleeve Is tin Is lied with a box plait also,
and the whole "make-up" of the coat
Is generally pood. Any woman can
make such a coat as this nnd It will
be a pood fitting one, too. The shops
nre full of short lengths now that can
bo bought very reasonably and are
Just the thing fo separate jackets
This model may lie used as the coat
to a suit and any skirt will go nicely
with It. Covert cloth, silk, or any
coat material may bo used.
Orange Pie.
Orate the rind of one nnd use tht
Juice of two large oranges. Stir to
pother a largo cupful of sugar and I
heaping tablospoonful of flour; add U
this the well-beaten yolks of three
cpgs, two tablespoonfuls of mcltec
butter. Reserve the white for frost
Ing. Turn this into a pie-pan lined
with pie paste and bake In a quiet
oven. When done so as to resomblt
I a finely baked custard, spread on th
top of It the beaten whites, whicl
must be sweetened with two table
spoonfuls of sugar; spread evenly
and return to the oven and browt
The addition of the juice of half I
lemon Improves it, if convenient tc
have It.
Coats of Blanket Serge.
Just now the rape Is for coats ol
blanket, serge, but the ordinary pale
tot shape is too popular to ho new
and the latst vogue Is the redlngot
shape In natural gray or biscuit tonei
w ith a small co'l r and cuffs of dark
er silk or velvet, which, thanks to th
chemical cleaner, Is easily restored
with the coat.
of the ninlerial. The other rnstume h
of Hue iliiih. The hIk.ii skirt In mailt
with linx plalls which form pointed RUapf
at the top. II l trlmim-d at the bottom'
belwe.n these plaits with strap nf th
mati rial. The iloul le-l.i i asted linlern It
nriiaminteil whh tinlil tuitions ami fin
ished at the Imttom with a Hhiiiied hand.
The thnwl collar Is l.orilered with a
Hluipnl ri'tlle. The watsn-oiit and bnttnmi
of the sleeves are of Line and whllf
striped silk. The sleeves are trlmvied
with bands of the material. The audit
U of velvet to match the costume.
How to Acquire and Retain the Priceless Posses
sion of tood Health
How to Ventilate.
With the advent of the cold wonth
er the doors and windows are closed,
largely shutting; out the purifying In
fluences of the fresh air which has so
freely circulated through the house
during the warmer season. ,
The rude habitations of our pioneer
ancestors, with their capacious open
fireplaces, were Biipt rlor to our mod
ern palatial dwellings In that there
was always possible an abundant sup
ply of fresh air. Houses of the pres
ent day in our civilized land are made
ns nearly air-tight ns architectural
skill can secure, anil unless provided
with aonie systematic mechanical
means of ventilating, the Indoor air Is
constantly contaminated wl'h breath
poisons and other Impurities resulting
from the heating and lighting and
rooking within the house, ko as to
be n constnnt menace to the health of
tho Inrnntis.'
Probably the best means of provid
ing the needed -supply of fresh air. Is
the open fire with a wide-mouth chim
ney to act as ventilator. The open
grate Is likewise the most healthful
means of heating a house; although
so far as fuel alone Is concerned, it Is
not tne most economical. Weighed In
the balance with the saving In health,
however. It may be considered a mat
ter of economy.
If other means of heating tie em
ployed, good ventilation can be se
cured only hy some special arrange
ment for the Incoming of fresh air
nnd the outgoing of foul air. How
this may be well accomplished Is best
told in the words of a well known au
thority on the subject: "The foul air
outlet should be constructed on the
plan of the fireplace an opening near
the floor connected with the chimney
or nn upright ventilating shaft, the
top of which should extend above the
roof like a chimney. The ventilating
shaft should always be located In nn
Inside wall, nnd, if pos-dblo, should
be placed next to a chimney which Is
always warm. The chimney heals
the duct and Increases the draft.
"Tho opening for the outlet of Im
pure air should be at the bottom of
tho room when the house Is heated
by n furnace or by other means which
warms the fresh air before it is ad
mitted to the rooms. If the fresh air
Is admitted cold, the foul-air outlet
should he at a higher levtl. The best
point is perhaps at about four feet
from the floor. This will secure a
thorough admixture of the air. If the
outlet Is nt the floor, the cold fresh
air admitted to the room will pass
out before It has been warmed and
used, while the hot foul air will ac
cumulate in the tipper part of tho
room, and thus the change of air will
1e Imperfect.
"Two openings must bo provided to
secure proper ventilation, one for the
entrance of fresh air, the other for
the exit of foul air. It Is In every
way better that the air should be
heated, at least partially, before It
enters the room, ns this will to a
large decree prevent the formation of
a cold layer about the floor."
"There are too many Fsatts who
sell their birthright of health jor a
mess of pottage, and it Is difficult to
realize how much of the suffering and
111 humor of life Is due to not having
learned to do without In the matter of
eating and drinking."
Temper Powders.
f?lr Tender Urunton, n famous Eng
lish physician and surgeon. Is quoted
by a special Ixtndon cable to the New
York Herald as recommending a
"temper powder," consisting of bro
mide pf potash and other drugs,
which should be taken whenever ono
Is subjected to "some Irritating occur
rence," or "some depressing news."
"to take away the sting of either, so
that In the place of being much wor
ried and unable to turn nttention to
other things, a person fools ns if he
had slept over the bad news or worry,
and Is able to obtain relief by turn
ing his nttention to something else."
According to this dispatch. Sir I an
tler Urunton recommends the "tem
per powders" as a means of prevent
ing "those constant, explosions of tem
per on the part of a member of tho
family," which "may affect the health
of the other members, who have their
appetites spoiled, their digestion Im
paired, their nerves shattered, and
their pleasures In life destroyed by
the mental suffering Induced by the
Irritable temper of another. For
these patients the best treatment Is to
administer 'temper powders' to the
offending person, when the distress
ing symptoms of the other members
Of the family will be relieved."
This Is, Indeed, an easy way out of
trouble: but It Is a dangerous expe
dient, and In the end will only make
worse trouble, for the effects of bro
mide of potash and other stupefying
drugs are to leave the subject In a
state of Increased Irritation when the
effects have worn off. In order to
euro bad temper, then, by th's plan,
the only effective method would be to
keep the patient under the constant
Influence of the bromide of potash, or
opium, or Borne other nerve-depressing
Had temper, In a great proportion
, of cases, has for Its foundation, In
digestion, nervous exhaustion, or
8om other physical 111. which may be
relieved by the removal of causes nnd
tho ndoption of sultuble physiologic
I measures. In certain cases, moral
remedies are necessary, as well as
Occupation for tho Aged.
Qualn, In his Medical Dictionary, at
bltrarlly defines advanced life as the
period between sixty-two and eighty
two, nnd the .time of old age beyond
that period. But the infirmities of
age are measured, not so much by
length of days aa by the integrity ot
the bodily functions, and the sound
ness of the organic structures.
The question. How much work la
normal and ratlonnl for each? must
be answered according to the past life
and present condition of each Indi
vidual old man or woman. For most
old people, however, there Is no em
ployment better than work In a gar
den In which they have some commer
cial Interest. Honey, honestly earned
and wisely spent, promotes health.
Tho hoeing, weeding, trimming, gath
ering and marketing of the fruits and
vegetables or flowers; the open air
life, exercise In the sunshine among
growing things; the healthy stimulus
of planning the work, studying and
talking to others of the best methods
of gardening what Is most profitable
to plant In that region, how the land
should be fertilized, and where and
when to sell the products all this
keeps the mind active.
Poultry raising and bee culture are
also employments well adapted for
those advanced In life who need to
make work remunerative.
The main points for the aged to
consider are: To avoid disease and
premature failure of strength, not by
Increase of food and stimulants, as Is
often advised, but by cutting down
and simplifying the diet In proportion
to the decreased wenr and tear of tis
sue, so that the Intake will not exceed
the output; to still maintain nn Inter
est In current thought and activities,
and to select some occupation suited
to their physical strength and their
previous training and skill.
The secret of a healthy, useful, ac
tive old age is to know how to wear
out life's waning energies normally,
not to exhaust them prematurely by
overwork, or, worse still, waste them
by the rusting of needless Inactivity.
There would seem to bo little need
In old age of destitution and depend
ence on the county, were all the work
ing classes to plan for a home In the
country nnd a few acres of land, by
snvlng money uselessly spent for such
disease-producing, health-destroying
articles ns tea, coffee, tobacco and al
cohol, to say nothing of other Injuri
ous table luxuries. Hy a wise econ
omy In the expenditure of money, nnd
rntlonal Investment In a home, the
old working man and woman would
find themselves with a fund of health
and strength equal to their day, and
when no longer able to compete with
a younger generation, they would
still have useful, remunerative occu
pation on their own premises.
Shut Your Mouth.
Shut your mouth. Breathe through
your nose. Never allow yourself,
ayg a medical writer, unless positive
ly necessary, to breathe through your
mouth. The nose Is made to breathe
through. It Is provided with hairs to
sift the dust out of the air. It Is pro
vided with warming plates (turbinat
ed bones) to temper the air. It Is
provided with apparatus for furnish
ing moisture to the air. All of this Is
quite essential before the air Is drawn
Into the lungs.
Breathe through the nose. Shut
your mouth. Man Is a talking ani
mal. He talks so much be forgets
how to breathe through his nose. In
sirplng, also. It Is Impossible not to
breathe through the mouth,
A good, brisk walk In the morning,
compelling yourself to breathe
through the nose. Is an excellent hy
gienic practice. At first It may be
difficult, but persist In doing so. Think
of It all day, whatever you are doing.
Shut your mouth; breathe through
your nose. Keep thinking about It
until you have formed the habit. It
may require quite nn effort at first.
I nzy people had better not try It.
Some people are too lazy to breathe
anyhow. They go around with their
mouth open, like a fish. Keep your
mouth shut. Breathe through your
Bedroom Climate.
A person at the age of CO years has
spent about twenty years of his life
in his bedroom. Have you Investlgat
ed the average sleeping-room climate?
If you were sent as a missionary to
some distant pestilential spot the cli
mate of which was as unhealthful as
that of the average bedroom, would
you not feel that you were risking a
great deal for the sake of the heathen?
On the tombstone of tens of thou
sands of those who have died from tu
berculosis might appropriately be in
scribed, "Disease and death were in
vited and encouraged by a death-dealing
bedroom climate."
To show that this Is no exaggera
tion, it is only necessary to call at
tention to the fact that fully halt of
the tubercular patients treated In out
door consumptive hospitals make a
satisfactory recovery. Fresh air will
not only cure the disease, but U cer
tainly a wonderful preventive of It.
It is not more reasonable deliberate
ly to breathe Impure air than It is to
drink Impure water or eat unhealthful
food or wear Infected clothing.
The national drink bill in England
has fallen during the past five years
by no less than JC ,940.dC2. This co
lucides, it U said, with the rapid
growth of the tendency to cschww
lleuu fond. Physical Education.
How tha Coolness Started.
Reggy I wondah what makes Mr.
Fewcash so kind to me recently. She
awsks me to walk on the avenoo every
day now.
Percy le'a your face that does it,
deah boy.
Roggy Do you weally think so?
Percy No doubt about It, bah Jove?
It's the fashion to be attended by a
bull pup, ye know, and bhe cawn't
afford the real article, don't you see?
"Poor lad! Did you break your bat
trying to knock out o home run?"
"Naw! Tryln' to knock out de empire?'"
"Anyhow, you can't deny that Hew
llgua is a self-made man. He worked
bis way through college."
"He certally did. He worked nearly
every student In the institution."
Chicago Tribune.
Every Housekeeper should know
that If they will buy Defiance Colo)
Water Starch for laundry use they
will save not only time, because It
never sticks to the Iron, but because
each package contains 16 ot. one full
pound while all other Cold Water
Starches are put up In -pound pack
ages, and the price Is the same, 10
cents. Then again because Defiance)
Starch la free from all Injurious chem
icals. If your grocer triea to sell you
a 12-oc. package It Is because ha baa
a stock on band which he wishes to
dispose of before he puta In Defiance.
He knows that Defiance Starch haa
printed on every package In large let
ters and figures "16 ozs." Demand De
fiance and save much time and money
and the annoyance ot the Iron stick
ing. Defiance never sticks.
How will it be when the roses fade
Out of the garden and out of the glade?
When the fresh pink bloom of tho
sweetbrlar wild,
That leans from the dell like the cheek
of a child,
Ta nl.nnnAl ... t It . 1. .
Then scarlet and carmine the groves
will flush.
How wilt It be when the autumn
Wither away from their leafless
When the sunflower and starflower
and goldenrod,
Glimmer no more from the frosted
And the hillside nooks are empty and
Then the forest tops will be gay with,
How will it be, when the woods turn
Their gold and their crimson all
dropped down,
And crumbled to dust? Ob, then, as wo
Our ear to earth's Hps we shall hear
her say,
"In the dark I am seeking new gems
for my grown"
We will dream of green leaves when
the woods turn brown.
Lucy Larcom,
Hot Biscuits, Griddle-Cakes, Pies and
The food that , made the fathers
strong Is sometimes unfit for the chil
dren under the new conditions that
our changing civilization is constantly
bringing in. One of Mr. Bryan's neigh
bors in the great state of Nebraska
"I was raised In the South, where
hot biscuits, griddle-cakes, pies and
puddings are eaten at almost every
meal, and by the time I located in
Nebraska I found myself a sufferer
from indigestion and Us attendant
ills distress and pains after meals,
an almost constant headache, dull,
heavy sleepiness by day and sleep
lessness at night, loss of flesh, impair
ed memory, etc., etc.
"I was rapidly becoming Incapaci
tated for business, when a valued
friend suggested a change In my diet,
the abandonment of heavy, rich stufli
and the use of Grape-Nuts food. I fol
lowed the good advice and shall al
ways be thankful that I did so.
"Whatever may be the experlenc
of others, the oejflrlal effects of tho
change were apparent In my case al
most Immediately. My stomach,
which had rejected other food for so
long, took to Grape-Nuts most kindly;
In a day or two my headache waa
gone, I began to sleep healthfully and
before a week was out the scales
showed that my lost weight was com
ing back. My memory was restored
with the renewed vigor that I felt In
body and mind. For three years now
Grape-Nuts food has kept me in prims
condition, and I propose It shall for
the rest ot my days.
"And by the way, my 2V4 year old
baby is as fond of Grape-Nuts as I am,
always Insists on having It. It keeps
her as healthy and hearty as they
make them." Name given by Postum
Co., Battle Creek, Mich. There s a
Read the little hook "The Uo.d to
WeUvllle" In pkgs.

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