OCR Interpretation


The evening telegraph. [volume] (Philadelphia [Pa.]) 1864-1918, January 05, 1867, FOURTH EDITION, Image 7

Image and text provided by Penn State University Libraries; University Park, PA

Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83025925/1867-01-05/ed-1/seq-7/

What is OCR?


Thumbnail for 7

! -VIEW3 0F VIENNA. S
I i - - - ' ?
Urrtd few years back no European capl- (
511, 1101 even "omc bersHf, had rcsiflted the
of time like Vienna. The boundary
R'taore..country ended and town began might
8f.iII I) - traced along the low rampart over
whfeb polcon twice 'strode In triumph.
Alter a traveller from the south or west had
como to terms with the watch dogs of that
fcebli line .of clrcumvallation, he had to
thrca.l the faubourgs ot the Wledcn or Marla
hilt. From these endless and htdeous suburbs
ho emerged, yawning with disappointment
and fatigue, not into the bright and crowded
streets, but on to a belt of parched common,
In summer terrible for sun and sand, in winter
an almost Impassable Malebolge of mud and
snow. The grass was flat for a space, and
then became a glacis, the slope of which belli
pierced at Intervals byroads and paths, re
vealeJ in glimpses tiers of masonry and
slanting turf, that-told Low some Austria
Vaubfla or Cormontaigne had made safe the
fcity's auclent circuit in the days when the
Turkish hoisftails fluttered ou the kcfV
BuJ;i, and the ifpahls flaunted their jcarlct
own about the Bisamberg and .the Prater.
. From those curtains and bastions Solyman
the Magnificent had recoiled more than
three centuries ago, when old Xlclas Salm
taught the fcwabians to hold their own against
the Ottoman power. Behind the crumbling
covsrid way and half choked ditch, hung t he
Irout ot the Imperial Burg, the palace of the
Archduke Charles, and the tower of the
Church of St. Augustine, while on the right
soar? J into the clouds the airy but still im
perfect steepla oi the Cathedral of St. Stephen.
A set of arched inlets burrowed under the
Piano-uobile of the Burg gave entrance into
a quadrangle, where stood charged and
pointed a battery of brass guns, whoso throats
yawned towards a tunnel in the opposite
wall ot the palace. Plunging through this,
the traveller reached the core of Vienna a
tangle of narrow and sordid streets, which,
twisting about like serpents to right and left,
struggled in tortuous courses down to the
Danube, and on the other side3 doubled bick
agaia to the gl acta.
But evn in Austria, Amurath dors not for
ever succeed to Amurath. Mcnsdorir has at
length followed upon Metternich. The K. K.
myrmiJons no longer exact the surrender of
Bibles, daggers, and oth?r carnal weapons.
It Is no longer necessary to show at the gates
of Vienna r, passport furnished with the sig
nature of the well-known firm of Palmer &
Son. The municipal tediles have now, after
years of parsimony, begun to beautify and
enlarge tuim-'capital. Copying the plans
prepared by the restless activity of the
French invader In 1809, they have res
cued the glacis from Us mere military
destination, laid flat the slope which mounted
to the counterscarp's edge, filled up the
d tcb., thrown down the scarp, aud thus Im
proved the approaches from every quarter.
On the glacis itself are the beginnings of a
new region, which already boasts bridges of
its owu, and Is gay with such gardens, lakes,
temple, statues, as the city's exchequer can
afford; while private and public palaces,
sumptuous in color, gold, and sculpture, are
springing up along a spacious boulevard well
hued with trees, dotted with seats for the
people's comfort, divided into alleys for dif
ferent sorts of traffic, and, when night falls,
illuminated by the gas that blazes irom a
treble row of burners.
Yet ancient Vienna is not quite gone. In
the inner city demolition and improvement
are slow of foot. Though at every corner
newspapers are freely hawked, though the
mil tary no longer swa?ger along the Graben
as it they were the lords of the State, some
signs ot the Lustige Wien linger in the streets.
Fiacres drive as Bharply and as surely as ot
old. Idlers who will not work still hamper
the passage of the industrious along the nar
row pavements. Admiring crowds still run
alter the bands, which are the only certain
glory of the Austrian army. Those who
wisely seek still discover taps of tha excellent
beer whone orient glow outshines the glitter
Of Tokay.
The best map of the general geography of
the imperial capital is the colored face of a
target . The gold is the inner city. The red
ring around this is the glacis. Tne blue coil
covers the suburbs. The black circle beyond
covers the suburban villages. On the north
the Inner city is flanked by an artificial
stream called the Danube Canal, which
strikes the pold rt a tangent, so that, on this
side, the red riu,r L) not a gl.rcl. but a ditch.
From the south the Winn, oozing across the
glacis, pours its foul odors luto the Danube
Canal. The faubourgs consist of straight
uglp streets, with houses and shops, mostly
mean aud strappling; for hero the diugy
djnaHties of King Dirt and King Dilapida
tion have cot yet been detbroued by the
modern buildtr revolutionary trowel.
While amidst th's poor and tumbling
region. anl on lu margins, masons who
wre never architect have foisted
pukce detljtned with lu.it so much
art sal taste as mlht utile for a barn,
VmJi' lurrcks, gtort;uOJea, custom-houses,
ttaMe, and other stuccoed receptacles of
Civil an 1 u Jiuiry lumber. LUtlu movement
f f,!, :i th o murk) purlieus, except along
th ;.!.ron krm to ti' Urr lailwg) s which
?nw i i.nti Trmsi w t, south, and north,
ltJ ti.ri ti t InuU'Wm la Dot vry
It A 1 1 Imt c ti t If f am h narrow cx
t. ul V t ni-t r' :, eutrr lug it from
. . ' ,. f t . i. oil ON the tllMMll
i. i 'KM liiM'fU'f IS k
It .t iw -m Ur? rt-
-.. 1 ai ' . (If f afiil
, . . I ev kii'l
. i t ' I. Hu mn tii
4 .! ' u!
. : ( j.fov u. 14 1
1S1
tr.
' 4 U
i. c i.
. it l.
. .. . I
THE' DAILY EVENING" TELEGKAFIf. PHILADELPHIA , SATURDAY,
'bo Durrr, and aftrrviards the glacis. The
l001 01 1,10 f),i"K oonainicf sway irom 1110
riolLt whf:r the Kohlmarkt flows Out ot the
a . 1 1 1 .'. rt j m
Oraben, rontmties onwards past the piazzas
cnllnd f ho Iloff and T'royung, till in ihis way
npain flie preen is gained by what in old
limes was tho Schotten Thor, or Scottish
Gate. Whoever considers it an exhilarating
pnHtime to look at the dirtiest and slowest of
European omnibuses, and be pushed Into
gutters and under tlw wheels of fiacres, should
upend his days In the Stefansplatz and the
Karnthnpr StrasHe. But the flrmcur of
Parisian paiceptions will find little amuso
munt outwide of the Kohlmarkt and Qrabeo.
Whereas most great cities have an archi
tectural phynlognomy of their own, the Im
perial capital has no air distinctive, enough
to noske what Germans would call a Wra(
induidnvm. . Containing a few buildings
specifically Italian, and o;hersof specifically
German ca.st, the predominating style is a
compromine between north and south, a bar
baric renaissance which owes its bastard
birth to Germanized Italians and Italianized
Germans . The Austrian never were a "culture-people,"
but their Italian antecedents
have taught, them some sympathy with
Italian art, and they have often brought
architects across the Alps to beautify their
cities. Whether from bud taste in the em
ployers, or ignorance in th? employed, the
ipsults have here been insignificant Fo
instance, although the Crabea Is not devoid
of superficial charm, and wears a brighter,
more natural look than the Greek mock
eries oi Munich and the peop'ed solitudes of
Bei'.fn, its buiMings ure chiefly of the nonde
script sort. Ilouses with steep roots and
dormers are jumbled arainst houses topped
with parapets over whinh no tile3 appear;
stone facades, with balconies, scrolls
and portals, lean on plastered fronts without
ornaments or mouldings ; bd-etagea and mez
zanine of dwelling apartments and show
saloons elbow garrets and lumber-rooms.
There are no frowning cornices or fine pro
files, no fascinating curiosities of outline, no
sharp contrasts of light and shade, no breaks
of perspective. One main defect, Inexcusable
In a climate where sun abounds, is the exag
gerated area of openings ns compared with
wall. Great architecture is spariug ot win
dows, tor when glass takes ihe place of solids
there is always an apparent loss of dignity
and strength. In all the Graben there is one
gateway worth notice, an entrance next a
chop, flanked by two heavy Atlantes. At the
end near the Stefansplatz there were some
gabled deformities which broke the monotony
of the whole ; but these malerlsch accidents
of brick and mortar have been abolished.
Ilow a city so bankrapt as Vienna can
find funds to rebuild the ruins, seems an
unanswerable problem. The cafes of Vienna
aie not sumptuous in frontage or fittings.
The shops have neither the splendor nor the
supplies which would be found hi many pro
vincial cities of England and France. Many
of them, however, have well-painted emblems,
and some of the houses ate richly bedizened
with metallic letters. A row of fiacres helps
to narrow the roadway, where, besides some
striped marquees erected for the sale of beer,
ices, and wine, is a growth ot twisted and
gilded stone, meant to be commemorative or
sug?estive of the Holy Trinity, while further
on water plashes over the brim of a somewhat
primeval basin.
The private equipage3 of Vienna, espe
cially those belonging to the court, are of
lumbering and unfinished build ; the horses,
though fleet, wiry beasts, have not the sleek,
showy air wanted for street effect; the jehus
and lackeys are ill clad and appointed. He
must, indeed, have ingenious eyes who dis
cerns those armies of Uussars, Heyducs,
Pandours, and other barbaric creatures to
whose picturesque presence imaginative
travellers ascribe that semi oriental air which
they fondly believed to pervade the streets
of Vienna. On the other hand, the fiacres
are the best in Europe. At the central stand,
the broughams for winter, and the caleshes
for summer use, seem to be always bran new,
and the drivers' pace is more killing than
that of any other coachman, except the
Istvoschiks of &t. Petersburg. Thejlove of
the lazy Viennese for carriage exercise
almost exceeds that of the Neapolitans; four
centuries ago JEneas Sylvius noted with
wonder the universal predominance of this
passion. The fiacre drivers are the spoilt
children of the public ; it is usual to remu
nerate them on the most reckless scale. As
natives seldom give less than a florin for a
course of two or three minutes' duration,
attempts to nail the men to the tariff pro
voke torrents of Elans'. The Viennese have
an oriental tolerance of obsc?ne objurga
tions; any foul-mouthed ruffian who out
Herods his neighbor Is sure to raise a laugh,
and is likely to be called a wit.
Outside the shops and cafes lounge white
coated officers, and civilians whose toilettes
have cost them much trouble yet produced
email commensurate results. Austrian ladies
of the better sort do not go on toot, so that
the temale honors of the pavement are done
by Furstin 1'hryne, Grafln Lais, and otheu
like Fraulelns, assisted perhaps by amateur
houries, mostly black-eyed and black-haired,
tall, loose in look and gait, decently dressed,
whose affection, if not always given for
money's sake, may freely be got for love.
Ihis method, which encourages coiruption
by removing one of its chiei reproaches and
gilding it with a pretense of sentiment,
brands the course of Vienna life, in the mid
dling and lower ranks at least, with a pre
eminence in a form of depravity that the
more easily escapes notice since it has long
since taken Its place as a recognized social
institution, nnd knows neither scruples,
bl u she s, nor remorse.
An evening stroll up to the Graben and
Kohlmarkt may be cbuveuiently prolonged
through the Schwibbogen for thus the tun
nel ot the Burg is called into the Palace
Square, called the Franzensplatz.
Here the admirers of the Imperial House
may tarry to contemp'ate the graven image
cf Kamer Franz, standing in stiff chancery
attitude on a lofty pedestal, whose supsrscrip
t on explains what no one would otherwise
have euessed, that the defunct Hapsburg
ruled his people in love. At the feet of the
polcr of S lvlo Pelhco crouch Fortitude,
luillgion, Peace, and Justice. Had he been
r. prvwnU'd u trampllne on those virtues,
tli- sculpture would have lost nothing in bis
1 tone truth, and would, besides, have served
m a commentary on the motto annexed
.4 mtrrrm meum populis mels. A probable
, tij liiatlon ot the methods of gov e ru
tin ut heretofore employed by that
otrn-lgQ may be seon in fiont of the
J, iiilng facade of the quadrangle. On a
)' guard house, with a row of benches out
. ii.!, rrpft the grim forms of the Austrian
' luirrj : while an apparatus of arms, artillery,
! 'ai. Unia, C'RiLle-pited eagles, echicarzgelb
i !.,ur. "d o i htr congenial tools and em
U. i couiiilute the characteristic symbolic
jx (uv of k. K. majetity. Diving through an
t. !? n-xt the watch, we pass from the
I -. into the open, where a strip of levelled
i u to scrreno t from the road by an Iron
r .ui toi ped with gold spear-heads, planted
i h rr-n, ilif(frlnd by paths, beds, benches
. t ."! u, . to atl'ord fhado and rest
nmid the summer 's heat. The largest portion
of ibis gardon Is less remarkable lor elegance
of design or splendour ot shrubs and flowers,
tli ;n (or tho Jealousy with whtch the public
nix -'hut out. Such exclusion must rest on
tb dog and tho manger prlnc ple, for royalty
seldom' If ever presses the turi or gravel with
itn subl me hee!. The Imperial precincts
i U p at a little hill which bounds the espla
nade of the Burg I hor.whoso Doric propj liea
pre threaded by the thoroughfare that runs
into tie Kohlmarkt. On this esnlanale are
Fcrnkorn'B bronze statues of Prince Eugenlo
end the Archduke Char'es. Eugenlo Von
Suvoye for thus the Italian Abbe, snubbed
by Franco and turned to account bv Ger
many, loved to write his name was placed
ou his coign of vantage fust before the
outbreak ot the late war. The "edle Bitter,"
as t e barrack doggerel of Austria styles the
conquerer of Zenta and Turin, costumed as a
military cavalier, with tho hat and clubbed
hali of the grand niecle, sits a battle-horse of j
the ponderous old Flanders breed, who rears !
up at a steep angle, so as to threw an uncom
fortable weight ot gun-metal on his hind
quarters. The pedestal, an elaborate com
pouna of bronze and marble, looks double
the proper size to eyes accustomed to the
standing provided Michel Anselo f.r the
horse of the Capitol, while its simplloity and
apparent strength are hurt by metal sc. 'oils,
mculdings, shklds, figures, dates, and other
dev'ces. 1 he animal's forelegs are still", and
the head hugs the neck too closely, so that
the outlines of this cart are Indistinct. The
hindquarters are vigorous and well modelled.
Then the lider'sscat is adapted to a quiet,
not to a prancing horse, an error which
f poils Peter the Great's equestrian figure on
the Isaak's Platz at St. Petersburg Modern
works are seldom presentable from more thin
a single point of view; whiln the ancient
and mediaeval artist, whether In a building,
statue, or ivory, remembered that a bad profile
would spoil a perfect front. Prince Eugene
is in the usual case ; and what is unfortunate,
both he and bis steed are best seen from the
rear. At present the tint of the group a
yellow bronze not o the real golden hue
repeats the color of the plaster facades of the
Burg which run behind, so that to a person
approaching from the glads, man and horse
are not enoueh detached from their back
ground. The Archduke Charles should be
too well known to need description. The
horse pluuges up in a daring attitude; the
victor of Aspern waves a flag with triumphant
gesture ; the lines of the composition are full
of energy and slancia. It the execution Is
less elaborated than in the companion piece,
it must be granted that the bronze Archduke
well embodies the idea which the action
given to him and to bis hoise ought to express
movement; while (he Prince, in his attitude
of unstable equilibrium, tails to present the
notion which his image seeks to convey
repose.
Behind the tail of the Archduke's charger
is the second garden, which is smaller and
meaner than the first, devoted to the recrea
tion ot the vulgar, and hence called the
Volksgarten. Here there is shadow enough
to protect the lounger from the sun. Some
parched grass, a few beds of azaleas, asters,
and geraniums, two marble basins, and seve
ral gravel walks, enliven an enclosure hardly
bigger in area than the green of an average
London square. At the far end is a repro
duction of the Temple of Theseus, whose
Doric facade, being jammed under a neigh
boring bastion, instead of being perched on
the summit, wears a look of meanness and
caricature, and adds nothing to the pomp ot
the place. Next the Archduke Charles is the
corner devoted to the pleasures of which we
are about to speak.
We have remarked, on another occasion,
that the Austrians proper are an inhospitable
set, and satisfied with society In very homoeo
pathic doses. There is, however, no other
city in Europe where such ample provision is
made for the amusement of all classes, or ,
where feuch prov'sion as exists is so greedily !
used. The climate of Vienna is fickle, !
quickly rushing from the temperature i
oi the torrid to the temperature of the !
frigid zone, abounding in treacherous ;
gusts ot hot and cold, in dust-storms, whirl
winds, and all the other weapons of the
armory of the Prince of the Power of the
Air. Bui the summer season has something
of tie radiant glow, the Elysian warmth, of j
Italy, so that there exist all the atmospheric ;
conditions necessary for a sauntering, loung- '
ing, jovial out-door existence. The beauti
ful Lslaud, called the Prater, is littlii lie-
quented by the Viennese of the better sort, !
except in winter and spring, and then more ,
as a theatre for the display of clothes, car
riages, and horses, than as a park haunted tor .
exercise and health. In summer, when the
umbrageous glades, the bosky p..ths, the tresh i
turf, the graz'ng deer, should tempt people !
pent in a populous city to a moment ot cool j
repose, the Viennese prefer to flock to beer
gardens and gulnguetted. These abound in
all quarters, are ot all sizes and styles, from
the smart enclosure w ith gilt railings, painted
kiosks, spruce attendants, and fine company,
to the mere cabaret with its scrap ot dusty
grass in fiont of the road or street, its rough
benches, slipshod waiters, and dirty guesu.
The beer is always good, the music often
matchless, especially in the semi-aristocratic
Volksgarten. (23
Ihis scene ot creature comtorts deserves a
moment's special attention. Beneath a group
of trees are two rotundas for music, a Kursaal
for promenading or dancing, a score or bo of
little white tables, a tew hundred white
wooden chairs, with a sufficient appendix of
prass and gravel, the whole separated on cer
tain evenings from the rest of the Volksgarten
by barriers improvised of nets and poles. On
Fiich occasions the garden presents a spark
ling spectacle. An orchestra, conducted by
the younger Strauss, occupies the pavilion of
the Kursaal, and a band irom one of the regi
ments in garrison plays in the outer rotunda.
The tables are crowded with military and
civilians, lounging, smoking cigars and ciga
rettes, sipping collee or swilling beer: with
paily dressed ladies, staring, chatting, nib
bling ices, and munching cakes ; while be
tween the orchestras a current of walkers
e-vay to and no. The aristocracy are seldom
prespnt, partly because at the season when
outdoor pastimes become pleasant tfce grand
world begins to quit Vienna : partly because
in the narrow limits ot the Volksgarten they
cannot well escape the degrading contact
with that middle-class element of which the
comoanv chieflv consists. Diplomacy mus
ters in force, aad a group of Fetlals usually
clusters near the entrv oi the Kursaal They
talk languidly, but they seem to be set ling
the afiiiiis of Europe, for round about them,
with ears pricked up.-bover the representa
tives of the Vienna press, ready to torture
every frown or smile into some grave fact in
tne destinies ot mankind. Next sits the
countess from Constantinople, who, accompa
nied by a wrinkled harridan, tricked out in
the most flaunting toilette that can be devised
by the mantua-makera of the Kohlmarkt, and
enamelled with chalk and rouge, casts from
time to time demure glances at the diploma
tic detachment. Iiard by some amateur
Jezebel parades ber conquests before
the eyes of all the world, and outdoes
fho scandal of professional a'O. Another
tiible has a military garrbton. The officers
have well built, well seasoned figures, and
miTCMive, manly race. 'Ihey wear the
Lite Waflen frocks of the Hue, faced with
enmoon, cherry, mauve, orange, blue, in all
sondes and species, so as to aflord distinctive
ti'urks to eath of eighty regiments. The
predominating pipeclay is brightened by
the cobalt tunles r the penerals.the green
coaU and plumes of the Imperial aldes-de-'
c nip, the grey su'ts and coeks' feathers of
the Jagers, the brown frocks and gilt Greek
htlmets of tie cuirassiers. Ihes, and
a dozen other variet'es of a uuiform
comfortable and useful for. wear, never
in i to give color, glitter, and move
tkeit to the feMlve scene. Although
gifted with a scanty store of intellectualisin,
Austrian officers are almost always no'able
tor good manners, and tho swashbuckler
style flndi no favor amongst them. In the re
mote towni othe Venetian kingdom Ancient
FiMol and Captain Bobadil used sometimes to
be caught swaggering about the empty streets,
but such eights are scarcely to be keen in tho
Uioie central provinces of tho empire, The
cflicers are superior in breeding and appcar
ntce to those of France, which follows from
the relative infusion oi the aristocratic ele
ment Into the higher ranks of the respective
savicts. In the Austrian army thirty-three
out of every hundred officers are of blue
blood, while In the army of France scarcely
ten per cent, of tho corps oi officers beloug to
noble families. It is not safe to ju.np to tho
conclusion that these figures may expla.n
Austria's late defeats, for In the Prussian
army the bourgeo's class is much more weakly
represented thau in the Austrian lo the ex
tent, namely, of not more than fifty per cent.
Neither is there any ground for the prevalent
notion that Austrian outce s are the elimi
nate slaves ot kid glove?, varnished boots, and
ornamental tailoring. They bestow so much
attention to the neatness, cleanness, and fit
of their uniforms as beseems the wearers of
the Hapsburg livery; but the mere foppery
of male dress Is not a Viennese epidemic.
On festive evenings the tables of the Volks
garten are always dotted with giant glasses
of that excellent beer which, like Bohemian
pheasants, Hungarian Tokay, and btyrian
iron, is an article that cannot be matched
out of Austria. The empire has above 8200
breweries, and the product of the mash-tuns,
besides comlorting millions of thirsty souls,
helps the country's revenues with the duty
levied on it as an article of primary consump
tion ; and if the flavor of the bottled liquid
could be brought up to that of the draught,
Austrian competition would surely endanger
the prospects of Burton-upon-Trent. It
appears, Indeed, that in Paris and elsewhere
the so called "Leltmeritzer" begins to be a
dangerous rival to pale ale. The biggest
Austrian brewery, viz., that oi Dreher, at
K lein-Schwechat, near Vienna, cannot, how
ever, compare In importance with one of our
preat English establishments. Barclay &
Perkins brew at least 14,000,000 gallons a
year, and employ 1800 hands, while Dreher
may biew 5,000,000, and employs 800 hands.
The total amount of beer annually made in
Austria is 172,000,000 gallons,or less than one
third of the British yield, and hardly 15 per
cent, more than that of little Bavaria. On this
showing the Bavarians should be terrible
topers, out a comparatively large quantity of
their pioduct travels abroad. The Austrian
malt liquor is not, except in the cities, a com
mon drink for the humbler classes; for wine,
even out of the grape countries, la a cheaper
beverage. Tastes can neither be disputed
nor be described, and so those whose ill luek
has prevented them drinking Vienna beer
must be satisfied to hear that it is less bitter,
less capiteux, and more ethereal in flavor
than Bass and Allsop, weaker in alcohol, and
more neutral in taste than other German
beers ; above all, that, when poured into a
glass fresh from a cask just brought up from
the ice-cellar, it glows like fluid amber, and is
crowned with a delicate beading of bubbles,
which ore true bubbles of the air, and not,
like the soapy foam of Scotch ale, bubbles of
the earth. To sip from a glass of Lager,
puffing wreaths from a cigarette of
choice Latakla, while you gaze vaguely
up to a sky flaming with the gold
aud crimson of a Danublan sunset,
and catch the rhythm ot . waltzes and
mazurkas this is tha perfection ot ignorant
and mechanical bliss. And nowhere ehe is
such blessedness so surely to be found. For
here is material luxury enough to lap the
being into a Sybaris of indolence and delight,
i o beauty bur the beauty of the heavens to
trouble the vision, no sound but the hum of
silver voices and the voluptuous pulsations
of music to agitate the ear. Here no monu
mental splendors beckon up the ghosts of
vanished greatness to agitate the spirit with
tales of the glorious and the good, no en
chanting breath of the balmy south melts the
heart to poetry, romance, and love. Such
feelings, sublime or soft, are from the Volka
gaiten, far from Vienna, The genius of the
place is one that bids you live while you live,
lor to-morrow you die. And by living he
means the life of the body and the death of
the soul eternal jollity of the superficial
6ort eating, drinking, dancing, gambling,
with all the round of the pastimes that best
heip to dumb forgettulness of whatever might
enlarge and educate the mind.
From the Volksgarten we proceed, by a
natural trans'tion, to the new part of Vienna.
In Mettemich's time architectural improve
ment kept pace with other sorts of Austrian
innovation. While building on the large
scale was the order of the day in Berlin and
Munich yes, even in Carlaruhe and Stutt
gart in Vienna not a brick was laid. The
revolutionary impetus of 1848 drove the
Swabian mind into certain new grooves, pro
ducing, besides other feelings, a desire to
see the capital beautified, or at least enlarged.
After nine year3 of hesitation it was decided
to connect the inner city with the suburbs,
by girding the glacis with two circular
boulevards. The area between these was to
be filled with streets and squares, the plan
of the whole to have specific reference to
beauty as well as to use. The situation was
admirable, but money waa scarce, and could
only be got by fatal sacrifices of ajsthetic
eflect. 'ihe original design Included the
erection of a series of public edifices. Ac
commodation ot this sort was urgently
wanted. Decent lodgment was needed tor
the Opera, tho University, the Public Library,
the Museums, the Municipality, the Parlia
ment, and so forth. The funds requisite for
the execution of this scheme were to be real
ized by the sale of parts of the glacis as build
ing room for private speculation. But in
oruer to Insure financial success, It was neces
sary to bring to the hammer the very plots of
ground which should have been reserved for
public purposes. Thus unrivalled opportuni
ties were lost ; eystematlc embellishment be
came impossible ; mere masonry grew up at
the points where real architecture was most
required; dwelling-houses, built in view of
tho largest and quickest returns from the
tenants of apartments and shops, took the
place of official constructions, consigning
some of the best of these to holes and corners,
where their magnificence was either wasted
or marred by contact with neighboring defor
JANUARY 5, I8G7,
mity. Such being the conditio:) under ?bivh
the ft diles liavo had 1 6 work, no wonder if,
in pplto of remf.?l-.iii)ie ' fcriCc':?s ol l'
tall the general result bids fair to
be something like failure. Outbids the
Ksrnthnr Thor, then, or Gate of Carintlun,
w hich, unlike the Burg Thor, is merely a
frubiictive barrier, a street has been thrust
ui on the. glacis, so as to embrace a phort
chord of the inner city. On emerging from
the Karnthner Strasstc, the spectator ftniln a
boulevard of Parisian proportions, branching
right and left In other words, to west nnd
east ol him. On the right hand the so-called
Opein and Burg Kings run towards the
Volksgarten, terminating abruptly on the
glacis. On the left the Karnthner, Kolo wrat,
l'htk. and Stuben Kings continue in the
dliection of the Danube Canal, closing with
the new Kursaal of the Stadt Park.
Austria's impoverishment was complete
enough even before the advent of those
humane locusts whose well-bied but whole
sale devastations have caused to the industry
aid agriculture of the invaded provinces
double the damage which would have been
Hufiered from plunder conducted on more
brutal and more sporadic principles. How
ever, even If the empire were to saspend pay
ment, the municipality of Vienna would con
trive to beg or borrow a few millions ot
itorlns for the completion of Null ami Sic
cardsburg's new opera bouse, which forms
the focus oi the King Strafe. It would o'
course be dull to describe and premature to
judge a building still partly covered with
FCcObldinp, to whose walls, moreover, the
exterior ornamentation has not yet been
applied. Some Austrian critics think the
new opera would require a course of Banting
to reduce It to elegant proportions, and its
tendency to overgrown widti must be
admitted. Others fancy that the facades aie
too thickly settled with pilasters. Still at its
present stage it has a look of greater origin
ality than its new French ilval.whlle its renais
sance mode', with the appropriate courses oi
airy arcades, arches, porticos, attics, seems a
more romantic and congenial home lor the
lyric drama thon the ponderous orders and
domes of the classical rxmple of the Boule
vards. A feature of the new Austrian theatre
will be a loggia decorated Ith scenes sug
gestive of the masterpieces of operatic art.
On one wall Figaro will scamper after Kosina,
and apply the soapsuds toBartolo's reluctant
beard. On another, the awtul Sarastro will
admonish Papageno and Tamina in respect
of the conduct to be observed in the sanctuary
of Isls and Osiris. Opposite the new opera,
on the opposite side of the boulevard, Is a
palatial edifice for apartment? or shops, called
the Ilelnrichshof. This block of renaissance
budding consists of a basement, a low maz
xanin or entresol, a bcl-eUiye of lofty dimen
sions three ktories of fair height above, with
dwarfed flanking towers, forming attics on
the top, the whole planned in flats and divided
by inner yards and courts, which give air,
light, and access to the several compartments
of this vast architectural warren. The base
ment is built of courses of white stone, with
joints deeply channelled in the rusticated
Italian style, and arched openings lor shops.
The lace of the next tour stories is red, while
the final story and attics are decorated
with detached figures colored in iresco
on a background of blazing gold.
There are no orders on the front, but
the windows and string-courses are adorned
with grotesque scrolls, masks, helmets. heads,
and every other sort of sculptured adjunct.
The whole is topped by an architrave raised
on a row ot term-like consoles, the cornice
being capped on the wings by a balustrade,
between the towers by a line of light mould
ings, along which, to break the. sky-line, are
placed, in store vases, a few gigantic plants
of green cactus. It seems useless to write
criticism of detail on objects not In the beat
ot ordinal y travelers. Suffice it, then, to
say, that if the Helnriclishof were less heavily
charged with ornaments.lt by moans of heavy
jambs and hoods, or other masonic devices,
an air of greater firmness wete given to the
shops In the basement, if the window surface
were reduced, if the consoles of the entabla
ture looked as well in profile as they do when
viewed In front if, in fine, the cornice had
been of a more massive build, the masterpiece
of the architect, Hansen, would have been
one of the best productions of these degene
rate days. Ourtimorous modern taste, which
cal s clear colors tawdry, cannot appreciate
the beaufy of buildings like the Palazzo
Brignole Kosso at Genoa, and the Bed Hos
pital of the Sforzas at Milan. What, indeed,
say our ci itics, could have been more bar
barous than that elephantine colossus with
which that bungler Pcrieles defaced the
temple ol Pallas Athene? What so hideous
as a Parthenon, with pediment gilt, and
painted by Phidias ? What more vulgar thau
a Venus from the chisel of Praxiteles, hung
with bracelets and tinted pink?
We cannot attempt to particularize the
other notable sights of the King Strasse, but
the palace now occupied by the Archduke
Wilhelm deserves notice as a fine specimen
of modern renaissance. It consists of a middle
block, and two wings thrown far enough back
to prevent mono' on y of plan, the whole faced
with deeply channelled yeuow atone, ine
windows are smaller than the prevalent
model, and free from ornaments or orders;
the great doorway is simple and solid, the
balconies are of rusticated work, with
hewn props for pll ars, the cornice
be'ng surmounted by a colurnnlated
balustrade. This building belongs co the
proprietor of the Erzherzog Carl Hotel, who
will herealter transfer his establishment
hither. Nearly opposite the hotel Is Zan
netti's Palace of the Prince of Wurtemberg, a
nco-Napoleonic deformity, plated over with
pillars and crowned with a hideous truncated
dome. Above the entrance is a pediment
which seems to have slid down from the top
of the palace, and Is filled with sculpture of
tb Edgeware Koad school, descriptive ot
"whet appear to be military incidents in the
fasti of the House of Wurtemberg. This
'edifice, tie work of an artist from Munich, is
the architectural Zero of the King, and Its
ugliness will be more apparent on the com
pletion of Ferstel's Palace for the Erzherzog
Ludwig Victor a performance that seems to
promise well, Nor can much be said for the
bullous minarets of Garben's new Kursaal,
which marks the beginning ot theStadt Park,
tho termination of the boulevard, and the end
of c ur present promenade. Cornhill Maga
zine. 1867. diaries. 1867.
60 Styles and Sizes, at Low Prices.
Vllt!ng and Wedding CtrJa, the latest novelties.
Initials, Vorogiams, etc., ttamped on paper aud
cnve'opfi, 'nc lots, gratis.
A large stock et" Indian, French and A merle la Pa, e
and Vut elopes.
Id ank HOOK of the best manufactory on haul
aud u.adu to Older.
R. HOSKINS & CO..
,i Maaatjctatert of BUtJl Book j
8tUoD'?e'j,'Foafavirs, 'nod lrlnt(:n,
6 W i mm o. 819 BOE Ht.reet
GOVERNMENT SALE3. '
8'
tAIK OF DAMAGED CUjnitN'i AMD
fet.lli'A.e.B.
Sc uuvi rui.r, Aiiti KAt
1'i.ir.AnKi. imii A. Ilmwniliftr ftl. lHiitt
Wilt ti( nold ai tii'buc bciioai, on uccount of the
yni'M Ktatps, at he Soliuy kill Arsooa1, Orat'il
Ptiw Ko1, l'lii'Blo'jihia, la., od Pit! DAT,
January n, I7, ,t 10 o'c'ock A M and will It
continuid irom tin to clay until H are aold, the
lollovwiia named art dm it IMiuuni'd Cio bluff aud
l-quiiaxe, vu
Woof Blanket. SLovX
Ht liber and rtnteJ Axon,
munlteti,, !lli-k-aM.
Intantry 0l."
(rent Coats.
Juckitn,
Trow i?c.
Stnrt,
1 irKsrn,
Hoot",
f ho,
Itedaackj,
iMlHdV.
Cantamia,
Hospital Tout.
Wail lentu,
f-Hblnj and ConunoalVnia
HarervnokR,
knai'ack,
blockings,
Hoiilo ( Ira).
Utuicat losttomeuts, Uto.
XI proporlT mut be f.'movtd within tea (10) dark
flora day ol Mile.
(jmalocoeg ytlll be furniehed opoa application at
tlil t'fl'.oo or at tho Office of
AltUT riAMHlNO AND EQTJIPA.GB.
INo. 1139 UlltAliD Slrwt.
7eim Ch In tiOYCruuiout luuch.
hy order of
Bievel Bri(f. en. CEO. H. CROSMAN,
Adiataut (juarteriunntcr.Tpni-ra U. 8. Army.
KKJNKY W. JANM.
Cartn-ti and A. Q M , Brevet Major, UNA,
12 Jll )t r xecutlve and Iuepeoting Oflioer.
CALK OF OLD AND
UN St 11 VICE A3 LE
CANKOX. SMALL AHM.i, AND
liCREATJ OR ORDdANCB,
Navt Dpvartmbnt.
Washtbotow City,' December la, lSrtfl.
On the tenil' (lotb) dar of January, 157. IHOlt.
DAY, at noon, tbero wilt bp sold at rnulio aootiou.
in tlio ftiOItlOUi. NAVY YAKD.to the hurbiwt
bidder, a lot ot old and tinoi vlueatilo cannon,
fiuaii arms, and mirfcullancoua aitic.os ol oaru
ordnance.
1 be cannon, shot, and elicit wfl be sold by th
pound, and the email arm and o her micellaaooiM
article ot oronnnce in Iota to suit purchasers,
lerms One-hall casb in Government touda, to b
deposited on the conclunion of tne sale, and fh
remainder within ten da?s aftornafi. during
which time the artiolea must be retimed from tu
Navy Yard, otherwise they wld it reft to the Groy
erntmnt. H. A. WISE,
12 ltutb tl 10 Chief of Buroan.
PROPOSALS
TTM1ED &TATES
MILITARY BAlLBOAi)
Ol ICE,
w ABHrtfOTOW, l. C, ieoemter m, lBtttt.
Seated Proposals will m received at thus offloa
nntil 12 M., MONDAY, January II, lor the purohaoe,
Irom the United Stales, ot five thousand ((Hrt
l oHied Lip Railroad Chaira, suitable torloib, "V
Bail.
IhMe Chain are cow stored at the works of Cora
Id ft Wlcslow, froy, New York.
Samples may be een at thisculce, or at theCnitiyl
States Unaitermaster's Olfico in New York city,
l'liiindelplila, l'a., or Louisville, fcy.
Turns Ca?h, in liortrnuivut tuud.
F. J. CRILLY,
12 23 13t Bvt. Col. and A. Q. 11., U. . Aimy.
ENGINES, MACHINERY, ETC,
PENN STEAM ENGINE AND
BOlLLR WOKKH.-SEA.riK ft LKVT.
Tit.iCilC.AL AM) THfcOKETlCAL ENGINEERS,
klAtUI.N IMTP. BOlLfcK-klAliJCKS. IIUACKSM 1TI8.
and FOTJMEkS, li.vnpr lor man.y years been In suc
cessful operation, and buen exclusively engaged ia
build!, ,f end repairing Mirtne and Hirer Engines, hlgU
and low pressure, Iron Boilers, Water Tanks, Propel
ler, eto etc., respectfully urtor their servioea to tm
publio as being luliv prepared to contract for engines of
all sizfa, Marine, H'ver, and Huttlonaryt having aeiiHX
patterns ot aluerent sizes, are prepared to execute ordtva
with quick uepatcb. i-very description of pattern-,
nmkbig made at the shortest notice. High and Low.
pressure t ine, Tubular, ana Cylinder Boilers, ol the beet
Pennsylvania charcoal iron, i orginirs ot all sizes aof
kinds; Iron and brass Castings ot all descriptions; Hod
Turning, Screw Cmting, ai.d all other work eonuecte
with the above business.
btawtnps and specifications for alt work dona at
the estalilUbme it tree ol charge, aud workjguaraa
ed. The subscribers have amplo wharf-dock room fbt .
repairs of boats, where they can 11. in peifect safuty.
ana ale provided with shears, blockd, tall, etc. .ti,
for raising heavy or light weights.
JACOB C KF.KFIS,
JOHN P. LiCVV.
8 21$ BEACH and PALiLEB Streets.
J. V At CHAN MkSiUCK, W1LUAK R. ItllBatOU'
johh . crr.
SorTHWARK FOUNDUr, FIFTH AJft
WASHISGION Btreeta,
PniLAOiLFBlA.
MKHU1CK. & HON1?,
ENGINLtKn AM MACHINIST'S,
manufacture High and Low Pressure bteum ogtug foi:
Land, hlver, and Marine Service,
boilers, Uanometen, Tank), Iron Boat, etc
Castings oi all kinds, either iron or bia.
Iron trarre Koola lor lias Works, Workshops, atu
Kullroad Stations etc.
Ke torts and Gas Machinery, of the latest and axont un
proved couatiuctlon.
l.verv description of Plantation Machinery, and flngar.
Paw, and Grist Milht, Vacuum Pans. Opeu Steam Tteiiu.
Leiecators, Fitters, Pumping hnglnes etc.
t-ole A vents lor N. inileux's Patent Nngar Boiling
Apparatus, Nesniyth's 1 aunt wteaui Kamuier, nd A.
piuwU& Woobey'a Patent Centriiugsl Sugar Draining
l.aehlne. Wt .
B
HIDESBCRO MACHINE W0&!ia
OFFICE,
Ko 65 N. FKONT STEEET,
PU1LA.DKLPBIA..
We are prepared to till order to any extent for oa;
well inon
MACHLNEKY r'OK COTTON AND WOOLLEN BfTLLH,
including all recent improveinenls la C aiding, SpLuning
tad eavioir.
We inv ite the attention ot manoiacturen oar extea
1 1) ' ALFRED JZHTKA A BON,
SHIPPING.
VTff BTEAJtt TO LIVEitPODL CALLINti
jT7nlt .t Queenstown The Inuian Line, sailing
tit'ilv. currrtna the Lnlted 9tai.es Mails.
"clTY OF BALTIMORE" Huturdav, January 11
"Cll Y OF LlMtUlCK.." Wednesday, January 18
"CltY Of CO UK." Batnrday, January l
"CITY OF IjUBLIN" W ednesdny. January 2
'CITY OFSrtv YOHK" hatunloy, January IPi
aud each succeeding enturdav and Wednesday, at noon,
Horn l'ler&o. ! .North river.
KAtEi OF PASSAGE
By the mall steamer sailing everv Saturday I
Payable m uola Payable In Currency.
First Cabin akfl steerage S
To London Ml To London, 33
To Paris lis! To Pans iA
Faraaga by the 'Wednesday steamers i First cabin,
gtO ; steerage, $30. Payable in United Htates currency.
Passengers also forwarded to Havre, Hamburg, Bru
u.en, etc., at moderate tales.
Meerage passage from Liverpool or Qneenstown, tit.
curreucv. Tickets can be bought here by persona send
ing lor their, ft lends.
For lurcher information apply at the Company's
Offices. JOHN O. DALE, Agent,
g 1 No. Ill WALK U I Btreet, Pbilada.
FOR NEW YORK PHILADEL,
delpnia Steam Propeller Company Da.
hiiK h cwiiuure Lines, via Delaware and Karl tan CauaL
leaving dai yat VI M. and ft p. M., connecting with, ail
Worrnern ana r astern unr.
For treluht. which will be taken upon eocommodattnj
terms, apply to WILLIAM M, BAIKIJ at(X,
ftctt. TO SHIP CAPTAINS AND OWNERS.
2JLLJJ2l--Tha nudorslgned having leased the KEN
biiNCloN 8CKEW DOCK., beg U Inform tits fneola
ana the patrons of tha Dock that be la wepare with
increased lacllltles to accommodate those having veaaeU
to be lalned or repaired, and bejug a nraotual ahlp-cr-penter
and caulker, will give personal attention to th
vessels entrusted to him for reoairs.
Captaiua or Agent. 8hlp-Carpentet5, and Machinists
having vessels to repair, a.e solicited to call.
Having the agency for the sale of "Wetterstedt'a
Patent Metailc Composition" for Copper paint, tor the
preservation of vessels' bottoms, for this oi.y, I am pre-
pared toturnbh the same on favoeable terms.
JOHN H. HAMMITT,
Kensinnton Screw Dock,
11- DELAWARE Avenue aoova Laurel street
SADDLES AND HARNESS.
BUFFALO ROBES,
LAP RU09,
' IIOSE COVERS.
i larga ssisortmcdt, WHOLESALE 0B BETAIL,
to irces, together with our ubu' rtttt8"""
SADDLES Y, ETC.
Y ILLI.VM S HANSEL L A SON -i,
i KO.If.MAlittIrbW.

xml | txt