New-York tribune. [volume], March 12, 1893, Page 15, Image 15

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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HOME AND SOCIETY.
CHAT OF THE SEASON.
MARRY-NO XOBLEMF.N-FASHIOXS FOR SPRING
AS HSUWMWVa ALBUM-BRIDAL COSTUMES.
How iplrlted, beautiful, attractive American women
Iran lubtnlt to be mud- thc objects of barter and
(or-.d fil('l-1*t,,f>n lK nne ot ,hP w-onders of this fin
de-stede dvllliatlon! And yet there have been
?rf.nil tnMnnces known w'.iere girls bave t?een tvub
jerted to the mortifying Indignity of hf lng jil nally
lilted for nr> ot;,er naaaa than Itel their prospective
In-onie*! wer-- not as large as their noble <?> suitors
,npp..?ed t**-*1*1 ,0 -ta when they committed them
?Meas io tor aa la offer their hearts and their titles
te in American belrcss. fco the recreant knights
Mt a*"*"**.!*' ll fresh iblds ond p.is'urc** new, leaving
tBe deserted maidens to wear the willow and fa.'c
.*,, comments of a pitying or Jeering world. Stub
I position li simply Intolerable, and lt ls no wonder
tb-t health and spirit- fail and Itel lives are spoiled
m Bia*a*ueac*. The terara! part or lt ali, aaare*
erer, ls that tfr,s a" *ft to Rally love these
titled suitors, who are often attractive men of ene
ttorld. surrounded with all the glamour of fashion
tod position which sheds such a rosy tint over
--tlnary mortals, and sn lt ls not only Ibe misery
I* tbwirtcd ambition that they orc romp-lba tn
guter, tel th- actual wratOednera of BBhrplaced
pelion. Surely parents should not allow their
-oi-.i gaagbten to ba expaaed to sue1: insults.
jjtne one aagfeeted Ihe other evening that since lt
^rlrtnally COnced*d that Hiles are to b.> bought rtpd
g.,*,, Law much baiter lt would he If a fashionable
WtefA of Infa.rmallon were established where the
Bnble etti* and dukes might obtain tru.-tworthv tn*
femitlon and thus prevent tboM unfortunate mistake!,
obit*, ara constantly lecnrriag.
To be a cowboy on a Western ranch nnd a
?matter"' In liccadilly tvirnM seem to be the two o.y
tremes of existence. Nevertheless tbe younger som
at a well known English family, who ls an exford
min. in alhlcte ond "un all round good f.-llow," con?
trives to reionclle these diametrically opposite ca
rn-r*. apparently very BBCeeasfnliy. This dual ex?
istence ls not altogether as ImpoaatMe as lt would
attvti. At certain seasons, for months nt a time, there
ts prsctlc.'illy nothing to do on a ranch, and If tin
proprietor has the money to spend there ls no reason
shy he should not be In England taste** of ta
America, or anywhere else in Europe. An Interesting
Bevel or play might ha made with such material and
s thoroughgoing knowledge of the two conditions.
That we should never tru<t to appearance we all
know full wall; nevertheless lt ls ti truth that ls very
bard to Inculcate, especially wtth young people, and
many a funny and rameMmea a mortifying experience
1* the n*uH of nn acquaintance mode casually while
travelling, '-on our last crossing." retain a girl in
inclety. whose people -i>ojid min li ol their lime abroad,
"there was a particularly nice blobing man wbo, some
nay at otter, always seemed to he on hand lo do
Jillie thoughtful thing- fur mamma ind me; a.ii.1 a,s
b- wis reserved and rather melancholy looking, and
quite breproaebable lu hi- peneral g.-t up aad
mar-Ta-rs. a* found him meei Interesting, and before
tbe vovag" was over we all became quite Intimate
ind - ?bamaajr.1 It was quite the accepted thing that
le should he our gaily escort on d"(ii, where h.
mode Mmseif simply tnrataabte by tbe thousand and
one 'petita solus ' which are -o comfort!) p (..? l-onrd
tata.
About himself, however, snd lils own affairs he
?Bits mo-t reticent, and I noticed Itel when he spoke
of rnei*:lng on terra Arma and of our future Inter*
loane be evaded tte question willi a sigh and a
look of such deep sadness that I was nlmo-t wild
nb) curiosity, i told mamma thal i was sure thal
i tte wa* some mystery about him, she quite
a med with me, and we made many attempts to
(.blain hts confidence; hal lt was always In vain,
ur.tl finally for some perfectly preposterous reason
mc (lidded that he wns un Anarchist nnd wa* vowel
to commit some dreadful deed. We would not have
1 e. n at all surprised to have heard afterward that
lu* had done something desperate; hut we were
hardly prepared for the real denouement, when, n
few weeks afterward. In one of the mammoth New
York shops where one can get everything that can
be thought of. I heard a famill.r voice behind ma
cull ?Caril.1 Turning, I MW our melancholy hero,
?Whose sad fate was simply to lae a floor walli*-r
at ?'I." _
Kt x very smart dl-.m-r tire other evening one
woman on'y among all thara present wore a lira rales*
bodice, and ?h.- certainly tooted very edd among the
evten.ei tarthra and nifft".- ami baRoon-ahaped steeves
wli*>:i exaggerated the shoulder wldUi of all thc other
daniel.
I'ral-e ard approval ari- far more potent reformer*
thin b'ome nnd fault flndir..: and if a bille of the
flattery'that ls so freely he-Mowed In BOTlety was Bard
In the honi- circle, how much pleasanter life would
become to every member of tin- tandi] ! It ls ii
very Urang* thing, however, that while lt ls an en-y
matter for many people to he suave und amiable I ?
etrangei-s for whom they care nothing. Barong Hair
own peaipje whom they really dearly tote tiny un?
cross and unkind. ? It d .e.n't iin-un anything." I- the
usual excu*e for the very reprehensible habit of
*' nagging" and fau't-flndig among the carlow mern
ben of a family : und that ls IteaadMeal part af lt ail.
lt rally deeral mean anything in tte begtaalag. lt
ls simply a little snapping, laarbag habit. Itel fan
cully ha controlled, and yet lt also manna so much
that it produces **Mu*aa and lacs of attrition britt ci ii
toetbrat and torten, a wael al sympathy between
parents and children, rind a Bataam*!*, BnrWtfBl bOBM
attaaagtera that is infinitely diprraring if st this
seaton of good raaotattaaa aaeh memhei ei tbe family
\t 'lld rosea!iv to trent tte athen \ti'h the *nme con
atierattoa and would give to Heir peraesriona and
gaaMirattani the tutw Mbranl pntae Itel they boston
np"'ii those of their aoqaalataacea, ll Bligh! he a niara
ntatary Lenten dtoctpbne thun most, mid have belier
sui; more enduring ivaiilt*.
Tbe Ji'w.ds worn hp the (Orman Rmpresa nt the
l.isi ?aabrarlpMon b*d,M which took plaee in tbe
Berlin Royal Optra Moase ? few d.i>- ago, excited
Uta envy und admiration of all the women present.
Among her mo-t cot.-pu'.iou- ornaments nen ibe -tar
of tin order of the Biaeb Ragle, ?t io diamonds; a
gngaMeeut brooch with exceedingly large atones, to
abbi hang string- al smaller diamond-; twa beaatft
hil diamond Man and a neeblsce which cost a prince?
ly fortune. A greet illiirtein ol brilliants was on Her
Muja sty's head, whi'." i'll bW -hup.iv ann- new
strings a.f diamonds. Tba- Empress : Iso v.oi-e the
lia on- | at buckle of Rap*te*a I, which was dis?
covered iy a I'rus-iuti i ep Rae al in tte una gat rar *a
Mrrtage after the hattie of Waterloo. Tradition MTS
fut ibe Emperor ased Ibe buckie aa Ibe day bl bis
aaraaattan in Noir- Daara, December tl. ledi. Tte
treasure wus added to tte lTus-lnn crown Ja wal, by
I'rcderJck William III. The King had an eati-MM
?Uta of the value of tte stones lu the buckle, and
paid tba money to membin of tbe regiment whlch
?w"ed ii. tanra then it tea teen one of tte principal
Im-BTU of the I*iu-slan crown. Its various parts
?re u>od ut d|tr#-rent tltn.-s by Ihe Easpress, som. times
in on* way .-md Bmacilmea la aaother. Tte tote
Empress Aagnsta wore tin- stones of the famous bat
huckle rm, especial delight, ih" pie-ant Rmpresa,
-*mar*r, I- a mach hnnd-omcr woman mid shows off
tb" rnmtai craw* fewela la great advantage. Tte
Emperor was delighted with ber iippenrnnci- nt the
tell, to the great pl.u-ure of Her Majesty, who nv
jwal yenrs ugo wns not spoiled bv the attentions nnd
tatripllmet.ts of her Imperial consort.
In the sprinc. when Ihe sy?tcm ls apt to he run
town by the conhnement In th- heated *tmoapbera ol
aint.-r house* and by a luck of the good, m-ei-n
reretabirs wbith do a* much to lone up the system,
I ?? well to tull attention to thc value of stilt
tatbing.
Almost nil intelligent nurse* now recommend the
mu tain, c-peiiaiiy tar Ufitmi pee**aa or indlvidutb
whose .ystems have become etiervuted by lack of
a-niid-int outdoor eXotctae. Where a person ls in In
dlv.dusiiy got-ri health and i? accaatomed tn a naM
}4 teth, a cup of mu li -ult mav alway* be um-d to ad
vsiitige. di*solved in the bathing eater. But -Mt
. ??Bne b-tj| niust be rinsed o-ff afterward with cb-.n
*?ter, md the body then rubbed vigorously
* with beary crash towels. But in the case of a
-atllr child or ii delicate person, -luthorltle*. reemm-nc
toa warm suit wuter bath. taboo at night Just befori
?stiring, tim; soothing effect of Midi a bath as thl'
'an hardly be appn-iluted by B person win BM nam
Mt* lt. /, nervous little child will often Ml inti
a refreshing slumber after such a buth a* thl*.. *hei
***ry other expedient falls.
. ., _^^
Sonvenir albums are once more becoming quite thc
tags in Paris. They contain sketches by eelebrstec;
BrttHu, poetry, sonnets, autogrsplis. are gorgeously
hound, and form a charming ai well ai a valuable
???"l In any lady's boudoir. Princess Waldemar ol
? Oenmark-wbo never forgets her French natlonattty
?a hating prepared for her own delectation a charmlnj
?*aiento of tbe country abe loves above sll others
?t li aa album, choicely hound and lllnitrated by all
Xtata-U* and Hade
Ie!ne Lemalre, and painters of their calibre, are en?
gaged upon Ita pnges. Mnssent-t has written a delight?
ful little piece of music for lt; and In fact, when,rom
Piotr*, lt will be ns fitting a souvenir of Taratan art a*
thc heart of a Preach prtocera Cl uld desire and the purse
of a w.-ulthy om- could well afford to purchase.
The souvenir album of Empress Frederick of tier
many ls celebrated throughout the world, for since
her wedding the Royal lady bas made a point of ask?
ing every celebrity prasented to her to contribute some
lines to this lnterc-trng volume, which ts tilled with
delightful sketches of all kinds of water-colors, poems
and qunfattons, signed by prent savants, crowned heads
and famous actors.
Another pretty Iden for anybody Interested In timi.
tem- photography ls to arrange a collection of photo?
graphs on a curtain, and to photograph the imire
curtain, thus obtaining a negative rn bigger than a
magazine cover whereon the whole collection In minia?
ture rejoices the eye.
GO WNS FOR STREET AND HOUSE
PEW CHANOFatS IX COT.
No startling changes In fashion beyond those which
have been Introduced this winter are Bheiy to be found
this spring, as has bean said befor-. (me tiing ls
certain; that all watting dreeara will clear the pave?
ment. Some of our moat exclusive du Beam he ri be*
Ueve that the width of dress-skirts has reacted Ita
limit; yet tooee who have Jim aniv-d from l'uris de?
clare thal the dress skirts for spring ure even wider
than Ibos* wlilc'a have b-en worn her--, and Worth
himself Is sall to have boasted that In* has recently
used as much ns fifty yards In a single gown, a mat?
ter Which would be nu,re conclusive If he had given
the width of Hie goods. It would not be a difficult
matlaT, fair example, to put llftt yard* of Japanese
crape, which measarca tel ton Inches In width. In anv
gown. Hut lt would be Impossible, even in Hie most
extreme width of skirt, to put more than eight or t-n
yards of double width material. ll ls likely that
from eighteen to twenty vm-ds of tsllk will be fully
sufficient to meet all the needs of fashion. Some
dressmakers go sn far ps to In.-lst that lt will Mri
more to make n dress now. us they handle more ma?
terials, but their intelligent customen win probably
recall the fact ghat they did nut reduce their Bricea
when they began to make .scanty dr.*ssa-s. it ls not
probable that our best drasamaheta will attempt any
.such ot tor: 10 n.
AU dressmakers who h.ive returned from Paris nre
agreed lhal crinoline is Impossible, Willie they insi-t
on on enormous width of isklrt, Hiey nre united In de*
elarlug thal wirra an* most Inelegant and unneces?
sary, "(.'a, no.- raid Mme.-, who hud Just
arrived from Paris. ?? It ta Impo-sibl.-. If ladles
persist In wearing these wide skirts In beaty ma?
terials nexl fal! lomethirg mu*t be devised to bold
them oal; but it win no! i,<* crinoline. The summer
materials ar.- too iig!:t to require anv support, but
Hu- winter ones WlU.'* Already then ls * bengall!!"
made of siiu. stiffened by boreenoir run through the
rep <.f tli,. good*, snr.) a -Kin i. recommended when
lt ls necessary to lise a iii ghi support for the spring
skirt.
ihls vhdltng cort ame I- of orchid satin brocade in
purple and gild. The -kiri I- plain. Watteau pleats
escape from a small c as.kt oi purple velvet draped
rn ?
mik
l..^flR
/Mi
m _?
?Z&Wtt^tttm.rtrmW"
and fixed tinder a larg" rosette; and the civet sice tea
Open "Vcr a -acaaiil -beta* *,f ",, cl, ld ' o|op*l snllli.
'ihe bonnet is ta tattara of retort te match.
TI.U youthful morning gown I* of dark navy.blue
faed cloth, with a dull surface. Tbe Paring shirl
measures four and a half turd- around, bul I- Stied
quite -mo.'t.ily lu front and ?tor the lil|> , giving lt
i.." fashionable sweep wblcb I- Hie ilstfngulnhlng
featare of Ihe "chic " gown <>f spring, lt I- gathered
to t.i" heit _t toe h.. k by cl...-- patten. Turra
bands of blood rd woollen, ear') trlmmd nilli r*W|
of (h.rk bi ie soutache braid, noli- tbe skirt. The
Etan lacael i- >.f navy "blue with targe roten af red,
trimmed with braid ilka, the skirt. Tl.e large g|g..t
alcoves are -.imply faced Wit* i'd nt Ihe holton
nnd turr.'-d tech lo ahow the f.uing. A full blouse
of red wo.,1 or silk, ul'', a*, extremely big. stock,
formed ?I folds ot Ibe red wool, *8d B belt wblcb k
trimmed witt braid, completes ib?- rottuam.
Tin- silk v.-ivei htonse, eiihr shaded, ahot or phln.
with a woollen skirt, ls tte lat. -I freak of fashion up
to date In rmi-. For the throat ruffle, el satin, cut
on ihe cross and Barrenly edged with fur. are
among Ibe ncw.it lind pmttlwl Concetta to be noticed
In Ibo estubll-hm.iits of the principal couturiers In
i_ii*-. They Ita in front with a hen ned long eada of
three .ml, satin ribbon, ibe length of the .treimcrs
dtp. nding entirely 0* the taste of the wearer.
Taffetas and bengali** will be tte favorite silk
materials this -pring. Tbere I- m. raping which la
the color must In reg-*, fm Ihe rssbtaMhle style ls I
combination of several shades in glace vim*. These
are exqul-lte mixture- of the nai-t lov.lv lints, pro
(luring effects of tte grcnle-t no\.]n . (iver BBSM ol
these beautiful shu -iiu- there nt- fine Unala -r
" pekin" Btltaes of -alta. I'a.uiltmlour strip** with
pretty boral patterns over B moire ground ure alw*
very Nsblonable. For lh>- street the cloth costume ls
of cour-ic Blwaya thc moat ladylike- -tir-ny or a
mUtun- of BSil brown urn! help* are favorite *hsdes,
but navy blue, both dirk and light, ls still the
elegant tint par exo-llcnce for plnln street dreie-e..
A light, uull green -vert cirllchsux" inrtlrhohe greeni
ls thc fat_.ot_.ble color of the moment. Hush of
tnt* color ls lu grab! vogue for trimmings and vartoii.
aeiesborti'S of the costume, for of course the whole
toilet li not made entirely green, tireen felt hate
are also much In favor; gloves, stockings snd slippers
sppeer In the ssme ihsde: md that In Paris, ls
thought to be v?ry "chic" notepaper snd envelope..
sra now made In Ihe same green hue. They are
either plain or with Initials and crest or a motto In
dead gold In a corner of thc -.licet of paper and the
envelope.
A dainty ball dcss for a young lady ls of pa|e
pink brocade. T*. skin is in tte bow heil or
-g'-def amp*, with ii high genaro of -nu ntaehn
headed by ;, j,'M>* v, hv, i r-*e1 ?? around t'.o skirt.
Tte toi-age, tut aquaro, is arnaatested with a ticba
of pah* pink chiffon edged with Ven|c- point, which
forms ? broad louBce over th" rolumlnons steere*.
Tin' hitter are rmi,i).,j m t;,,, ttbtm wini a raw i.f
Venice entredeux. Th- ti.hu dr.,,,),* ,.,t ti,,. wtni
over a rath.-r broad black nba ribbon finished with
a rhinestone buckle. Tie-,- glittering oraamenta
are very much in rogar, rmi ..n drraMB, bonn.!, .-md
hats make a very effective linl-h.
A GALLANT AMB ASEA DOB.
HEHP. von BRARDT mvr.s vp ms rosT T<i
Ll AI) Miss HEARS TU Till'. ALTAI',.
Tlie refusal of the F.mp.Tor of (".ermany to permit
H.-rr von lirandt, tl,.* Ambassador of the Empire lu
China, to marry Mi s Heard, the daughter of
Augustine Heard, of Massachusetts, Hu. American
Minister Re-Meat ami Consul-tleueral at -..ou!. i na,
ba- had no deterring inflaeace upon tte drtermlnattou
of that dl-itiigul.li.'d dlphimatl-t ta. Wot bl. I,rbi.*
home. Dorman ofltetal papen Bnnounce that Herr
mn Braadt?aatarally?preferred tin- ba.nor of neg
ding tte pr.-tty daughter of th.- Repnbtle ta. np
resenting tonger lil- Majesty at the capital of t;,..
Flowery Kingdom. Rheo ibo decMon of the Rmperor
arrived al pekin Ills K\c. lb n. y promptly forwaided
li- re-tgnatto* to bb chief, i"> tabe effect on April l.
ills anceeaanr, in tin- person of Baron von Bchenrk,
ut pravsaiit Qeramn Minister t?. persia, ana*, formerly
the representative of hi- country in chm, has already
been appointed. After hts'marriage the Ambassador
Intends to return wllh his wife lo Burope mal p.,
the rest of his days mi i.i- estates li. Uevataay.
Herr von Brandt ls. -a, far a I- ki.a.itu, Ho- tlr-t
(Ja.mi.m to rarreaier an Ambassador's port to link
his lortanea with tl,..-.- of nn American woman, m.
po-t u* representative in (irina i*. om. ,.f ti..- m. t
Important in tin- foreign lervlce ?.f ihe Rmplra. Ro
European country pays li- foreign representatives
larger s.ilarbs than Germany, According to the
regulaltom of h.- Pocetgn Callee, rarvlee lu the far
Baal "coaata doabto." -?? that Hen ron brandt,
long German reprenontatlve In the Orient, enjoyo Ibe
peculiar ilitlnrtlon of having bad nwra tar- a.f ser?
vice tl.an laiir- ..f Ufa-. Hi. l'.\. . ll. iii v. however, I
not a young man, hatta| paaaed bli -i.tti-n. Mrtbdaj
a s!iort time aga,
Ml-s Henri by her niarrlage will beeome r? I i'> <1
to some of Hie ni-.-I dlMtngulshrd families of H.
Pathaflaad. Hen ron Brandi 1- th.n of tieneral
von Hratidt, of ilo- l*ru--!i-i latani ry, wli" died In
i-i.-, and wi.iee meraolrs, pahllshed Bfiet bli drain,
called for:!, much dtoensaton. Ute t.i- talher, he
began active ilia- as aa armv officer, nu diplomatic
career began in 18410, win n be accompanied ronni
Etienberg on hi- Aatolli rn*.-lon. mu... then be ha*
lived without toterrapttan in tba Orient, except fur
an occa-lonnl b-at.f ab race.
For year- Hen von Brandi hai I ? ? fl Ihe dean al
tte diplomatic carpi ta Petan, ad ai neb, -pi.?
ninii on all Important occanton-i. Owing ta his tong
residence nnd lntlnu.tr knowledge ut ii ii,. . sffsli
bli lattaence 1- grenier with ti..- o_vernm?nl than
il.ai of i.i,, other representative. He hoi t.fl sn
liivnliial b- aid lo Germen nil :lb int . snd lb. I
petra ;r"'..iMv w,ll hate r*,-..ii '?>< regret ;,l li
Ills i ..ii.-, ilona "f n.,rh- "f i ; Inc . arl and Inda tit
are tram.ai- In Karopi . Biri iii mt ol the gri ,,t museum ?
owe to him - rae ol ti,.ir bm I valuable tic ure*.
Many Abbi tb bbs have en;..tnt ita Amt~.?sdnr'?
boaplteUl) li Ihe tar Ba '. a* he bas lung been i
friend ol thi- country and lin people. Regular')
.very Cbriilmai the nhole diplomatic ia,rp. and t ??
foreign tl Hors ol note have ,--? mbi.-.i .,t ni, pulace
t., celebrate tl.-dav. ll should ).? .n that Bmpeira
'aVUlianr- refusal ti. niiiie.ii iii" marriage "f the Am
ba ador and mi-- Heard un- not due te Ihe ;.i I thal
I'i lily I- an Aneri, r.ii. Ill BClloa -Inn'- lu, di.
rriaitnation against lbs daughter, of Iha I'nlted
Slates. The llarou'l nqui I would have uni lin'
-.m." fate ha.' li- future aile belonged *?? sn) biher
il,.,ii Iii* o-tu nulli.inriiit. n i- an unwritten law ol
the lierniriii lauangi, (Uh, a. thal III r> pi ? -. m.il lt.
.ball "ii marr) (?? rrtun, women. Sn one na. .re
rl_*>iriaii- in hU enforcement ol I!," i" ?-?ul itb'ii il.i.n
Ililli. ? lU-lll.tlak Vie ll 111 pilWer. F\.epll'.ll- let"
I. en made, bul Ibei ur.- rare. The wive* aaf Min
liter* and Ami. i -i tors naturally play an important
pun and ar.* lniri:''"(t with many Male and political
-ei rei-, lii-u.ai-, k believed lhal torrign wive* could
not feel ihe name Interrat it, tiertnany'i ncee
'tom. ii of Ihe Teotonlc ra.-, a -]....i illv -hould their
husband, hs ppm i?> be sccn-dlted lo lhab nellie
c.,untri?. No rule -if Hi-m..??< k bi* been i.??? rigid
iv upheld t.T the pre ? lit Kini-Tor than Hil- oil" ra
?.?ardill.* lin. wlv.I ti.- foreign r'pr*-.-iii..ilv. -. Hm
Tf. i i t..n Brandt, rs I ber lliau ie lubject le lt, will
,''i'' up bli post._ _
IV EDDI Mi OOWNS.
COLOt. SI HEME Ol BRIDAL ORO} I"-*.
Phtbtonabh _rr_sn_--ci are alrrad) orrupled ".\'':'
nrda-r- for April needing*, 'li." . lu-1 material u*ed
i.r wedding ??..?in- i- ii':.. bi-.r'.ii- satin, nilli ' ?
frnditi mal i ri ii. r.i. _r. ..i orange bbl .ai- SW) "-ai
l.l'.lll.l!..- of paarl-. Al I." !? ll' rOyBl U'i'l. '
abroad the brides were mini, I In gowns made illtt
low neeta. This bullion, however, d-p not bu*' Und
favor In ti- a otiiiti v. lo- bmlal d.?.- '.- always f
mad. Ugh iii Ihe tbroal arri tte il. nu-!?. v.- ct nd
io tbe ? Ihow,
The caaiom ol arrai ring ill I ie pism ..; I >? bridal
group on a rotor acta Bie -?. lhal they .ball form a
barmonloua onoto gltes s bmii < tarmlng efferi io our
church weddings. Pw a welding uhich win lake
place .ai iv in April ti,.har-, i!.i, f.,r te brtii
ina! is' dr.^-"- are mauve aad white, and Ibe ioweri
io he canted win be purple rattleyaa mid white roses.
Tte bude win carry n houquel ol white orchids
-jin.vd uii'. orange btosmma, The bridal drrai i- nf
the richest quality ol laslroua uttn, The trained
-kilt over bblch tolls the I mg veil ls -implv Qnlshed
with u toll box pleated nil ie ,,n Ibe i-lgc Ila- .In-*
h made io flan- -b. tilt on the itde-,, and ta Intertilled
with ihi! H.'.*."-! qusUij ".' rrlnbllne, inst i*i ?- ? :
io mri* t.a,,. rue round bodice i- Unlsted sith ? bril
eii.br.i.Jcreii wtth pearl*, and bup- bultoun-bbe ileeti.
of ihe satin, taught In st IritcrVata with sprs-ri "f
annie bb.-..ai*. \ Raring botched i-rrer el targe.
si/.e, wiriri lo keep lt In aa*pri mid embroidered wit ii
pearl-, siao.is the soft Iran! ol tulle, wron-.a iett
eatob uiih pearisand liimmed wllh a -pray of orange
Hovers end tarara. Tte brtde-maldi' arrarat ur.
narie alternately ol white bengallne and of pate msnve
bengalne, The Blrirt Rtaplre bodice* Bta Hied with
the two M-Hin- under tl"' arni-, nial.int the front of
thc binn... fun in wriabled folit .ito-* the ballam
The ne k of ibo hadlee i* nu round at rae shoulden
in le;io -t.'b-, nnd Bnlibed with s n'on-n, h frill ol
ptSni BppMqas lara, 'ihe hupa puffed -leena reach
to tin- elbow, wilora Itel awol tte gtotea. Tte sn.rt
tiering l*_-0 skills ure In.I-.nil with narra,'! ruiTt-s
.raaiu-ta-d ic Air. A - :t (Ulta].f s Ita *.r ol
u.nuv* chillon u. uiiiic!. the pinn Il worn li: tfn- mik
ol the.,- die--.--, und larg.- picture kit- alli coombie
111" gr.aa el,ll
ts Mill
t'll
Te Btather oi iha bride aili waar a dress ot rte
brocade in a v.. ting, banded j. *? ? in ol maure umi
pule blue This gonn |.- made Willi i Bartug 'Biri
and ii dr-ml train, .mil trimmed with pam*!-, of yello*
t;.r"Md tore, caught down by b'-v-i ri lae pwiertol ui
the tool Bl the gown. Te Ulgb o ilCl '.- CUt wllh ii
ptain French beeb, and targe, ai..pins leg-o'?mutton
steere*, The bout i- inti "ii ml )-'?'?" rater* rn
relton lace, lurroundlng the-steeves aud lulling ovei
the top. T> -oit from alf tbe bodice I- of i?'l" manti
crape and ll Rnlahei on either Md" bl bind- a,i mb
warn eu.'.cold'-rv, covered nun ?piinglm of mauve
iliii.-d metal
Utber wedding groapi nra- mad'- up In yellow mid
white, pub raw and While, a,r In nnj hlhlonahle
color Watch ?H1 ("nihill"- daintily With tte Whit.- Bl
the bride'.- BBWn.
MARU IMS
Marzipan, the famous 'lei man confection. I-*- toeai
In many of our |hogU- ''ixl is hntatalng almost ;,- min h
of n holliliy dnlnty here a- in ih>- "ld (-ermin town..
A tested recipe tor thl- cali- for n pound of ewart ial
monds, u pound of powdered augur and a taratap***
ful of orsnge-tl mer water. Ulai.di the almonds, drj
them and pom d Item to - pa-tc. Mt* them with tte
sugar, sud *tlr our a ll rv In a aaucepaa until li
cease* to it'lek to the pan. Then sprinkle a Hub
pow doced sugar over Ibo pantry board nnd roll tbe
aim iud paste out, u.lu. a rollins pin -f Ocrmau earth
?n ware. Dredge lt with fine powdered stig.'r as
rou do so. Knead lt uni roll lt us you would puff
)a-te Cut lt aaiit Hilo r~>und cake, or make largo
narslaan Ibo lira af n pta. Decorate with candled
herries, sbces ol candled lime*, http ol angelica, tobra
f crystalbted orange* and cabaled grapes. Let u
Irv In a moderately wara place Hil lt 1* quita -il.lt"
t i- batter to put the crysteliteed fruit aa lt aftei lt
i dry.
-O'*
TO COOK POTATOES.
HOW TO TREAT THEM IM SrilIXO.
At ti-.is fenton of th" year, when galatea* have
?cme somewhat rank and old. lt I* n'.ways heal to
oak them for about three or four hours In cold water
efora peeUng them. After t:.is si rub them tbor
? u.hly with n brush k'-pt tm- tbll puipo-e, throw tlnm
nto clear, cold water, and peri al a piece of shin
.tout three-quarters a,r mi Inch arida entirely around
he potaMa. I), not pa ? I t!ein ei/lri'lv, but dig out
.ny de.p eyes. Fut them lu a raacepan in eold wa'-i-r
-never in belling water at n.i- learan of tba pear?
md bring them slowly to th- bo.ling point. Cook
hem from :t"i tai 41) mlnutea after they Law begun
o boll. Then drain them.
After they are thoroughly drained from nil water,
-hake them briskly in a current of cid air. Thia
in.c.-. asatstl ta, mate them unaly, ('..vcr them at
.lice with a coarse kitchen low. I, mit putting 0:1 tho
"Otra of tin' Min.'(-p:iii, ead place for gva or six
Binnies at tin- back of tbe range. Thea peel them
? nd .serve Hi. in jil once, C..1.1 potatoes which ten
..?en l>oil.' I in t_|, woy may h.. -.rt erl agata In a
lumber of delightful wat, which have aol pilled upon
ii." taste bernara of Ibelr freqaem repetition.
Por p*meaa a la LyonnatM (hop an onion line,
fry lt brown in a tablespoonful of butter, add another
labteipoonful to the bon iptdet after thc frying and
.?t the buii.r become rery hot. Ti,eu cut six
whole bolled potatoes Into even agaa and lay them
In the spider, winch should be ample enough to
hold thea without their lapping erer one another.
I.-t th.nil fry brown mi both sides, t<"r*-lng them
BccaslonaOy in proven! Ibelr burning, sprinkle a
uhle-poonfnl of parrie) ov.-i- them, und -crvo them at
niue. They nliould bo very hil when brought on tte
bible.
A dainty way of luislilag p'lt.'iloos ls ns follows :
Fat a tabb -p.".:.fui and a hall ol hinter In a Irving*
pan. ( bop up sta (.Jd bolled potato.-, aeasou them
wini salt nnd pepper and inoi-t-n them with about
ita table*].if uta of cream, lipread iha moistened
potato*., lu lin- Irving jan Bl MOO a- th.- butter
1- tboroaghl) heated, lira a the laucepan toward
Un- bink ..f Hi" Mote, Where Hie pola.s will slowly
taroun. II! ball ali boar i-xauiiu- Hum umi II they
an fully browned, fold them ..vcr uko nn omelet
ami s- ive them. Another way 1* io prepare tin- po
Ialoes n, we have Ju-t described, ard spr.-nd them
iii 11 m.,, lid on 11 .niall meal philter in-tead of
in a spider. Tu.a iniii.-i.tiftii-. ot Parmeaaa cheero,
md tin' -anil' amount of Bne s.fi bri "ade rumba ara
linn sprinkled over them with i.iu of batter, mid
they ai- then branned iu tie* oven until they are
a tine gol.b n color.
.-.? ??
FAIRY-LIKE UAEMESTS.
WHIT ) FASHIONABLE WOKA ff WEARS.
Cl,urning pi '..-noir-, or ba.b robe*, iire now made
af Jillie blue, pl]" lill*. DC cr. ll III fl hit e si iii ll;llltl"l.
liny un- tery loone, of courae, tin- .leevra ar., wide
md op. u ut tte wrirt iu tbe old pu guda shape, and
ire trimmed with bondi of Ku.-inn irabnMery in
light f, itu . These gunin ni., extremely c un*
[uttaMe .ii'i 1. "ful I vi'il Bl dainty bs.king.
\ ? ng "..11 be dalnUer or sltofrther tonier
1 ? 1.?..-? 1 i? ? ..: u modern fa?Ulonable m.,man nba
vi* plenij of money lo .pend; and a peep Into
mil.cit'* drawers I-. a reritabta Beothetle pleoaure.
in t al Ihl* lesson -'.? 1, ;?tr*-- Ung rlolet, and her
ind ? .. :.'?*.- ai" .ll "f Ibe maw -ii ob* nf
lor. 1 >' i\ drawi 1 1- Btted atth a aacbet
ol ?? il t Ilk, perfumed with Flurentlne orri.;
.md ".1 a pih- a,f underclothing ls u- a with rtolel
*-t : ?
mm
Mi
\W/v.
m
nie mi, * ll., all Hie bil.*.'rlbl ons on ber rhemlsettes,
1 - robe*, ai... :.: ? of Hi" same .-arlie. N"\t
mom. li mi. I" pink, and t!;" nert yellow, Bnd M
an; lui nbntcvei ibe prevailing lint mny be, avery.
Hiing mn--1 1... lu nci .ni.
\ f.a- tn ? ., 1;-? 1,. !,?- ta. ins.ives they ur" aRogether
lovely la ab - .? , 1. Mirra, und cxt|tltalte 1.dlr work.
ilo- mo,1 ion ii change, of lat" yean in underwear
'ma- been la rrl/lit at:--- . and petticoat*, holli of
which a;-. 1 (?'.il.nmie now 11- ant baiiir"--. Tbe
I'll'- CiallVefltl .: .ll pr't.;:i faar Ihe fonil'T I'V wllilll all
.-??.iii- 11 ,i'. 1 iiiurti trimmed or pl iln, wei-- guided
han -iv n pla ?? 1 ? cn-, vsriet) ol .usp,** and fancies,
nu-, ii.ia.-s ai.. iu\.. iii.at I... ini.il- of lither trash
-uk or ila- tlnml cambric; delicate tandi a >.f pink,
lia.., iiml triton :???!? -o,i.''i 1... worn, nllbougta
i' i.. 1, generally lonssiered more relined. ?? \,
t.r ih.- pettlr a'- t i- spring, ti.ey are simply
I- -,|.., *? ,1.:i., ,1 an 1 1:11111- i 1 tlc t ,1 m. woman ; :?n<l
trulv Ho- comblnnilon* ??: ?Ilk. ribbon ir 1 lace sr*
",?',;?-ni :. behold .'ul - 'in almost loo dainy '.0
<vi-:ir unib-r a b< avy eklrt.
TOAST ASD CHEESE.
DISItt-. POR St'PPER ami fal'RCHEOR.
To.'-t and rhea-.* I* nn old English cauirse. Which
or.iin nil) i,pp an "ii Bur t.'. 11 s ,,; uw- airier Ibe name
of Wa i-i r'lrei.'.t. Tiri* ffjsh dates bick oter om- hun*
dr-d years, and probably mm li .-nrlb-r. for toasted
.-'?.'?se j. a v rv raitt Kir.-r*. 'lalnlv. In 11-" In the
itii" , of Charles li. with which tbi- tbnimgfi-rad gour?
mand af that da) nae* '"' spur up bis jaded appetite.
Tin- cheese for iln purpose nf toasting should be rich
umi nv lb.w. Tl.i- F.nglt-h u-" u ( hesbln ck>???*>?. which
ls ai.".ant v.|iii\i.but io a rhh. well-ripened American
dalry cheese, n.rnle with tail of cream, a checae thai
I, v ry often MM I", these dav, ?- BagtUa dnlrv. lt
1- a greet nbtphe, h iweter, t" use 1 ii"..-, irhleh ls toa
r.ii, rad all -?,,"!;-. tn tte 1 ira 1 mutt he carefUQy rat
>ut.
lort n ga i iain- Welsh ri.rebii. r n !<?? ri pound of Hil
?-f.it sad i-rumM] ' 'ii'-", cul it iu uta mid put it
In a shallow saucepan at Hi" bach par- ,,t ihe stove
Add ii t.ibi"-|"" t..*'il of baitoi nnd n gill of rai,
milk, and -ct t'.- -ni enan lu 1 pad <>f bdUlag armer
ind stn- the .ti"-? gradual!* until ii unit*, and a
art.amt:'. 1-leB mixture ls ferro.si Hava- ready two
-li,.af bread, from which ihe .ru-ts hate bera trim
md and nate- han been toasted a dejttcate brown.
Tor Hil* purpose Hi- *oa-t iboald be -of. not . rtsp
Ri Isle* the trari with a little boiled milk, riv-n spread
the ml.ittire Ihbkly ovi r lt. If you wist, a golden
tunk ra* mu-t adi a paaibei egg on lop ol -s.il slice
of toast'.
Toa greatest ml-take which amateur* make |* to
s-rv.- 'hs preparation ol rh. an rrtsp tar. hm*i.
?ili'-n lt 1 mea all it- ieliroev. The bread atari bs- *aift
titi th" cheese mu*' he rich nn 1 melton, nnd, above
ag, li mii-i be -rivid t.r.i bot -...m,. ..Miks add u bli
of iavenue. I IW pin; h. bul tMs ls tint 11 part of t t
original F.ngll-h prapanitoe. Tn ?**.._ (hecse. which
cons ni- of Ililn che,-,., lilted Into * dainty little man
with 0 long handle, which bear* the mime of cbeeie
toost -r, ls seldom seen. Thu ch- ov. touter la s rare
family utensil at present, but In olden times lt was a
port of the regular dining-room outfit, for to be In
perfection che rae must be toasted licfore your very
eyes by tin- dining-room lire, lt was a custom to al?
ways serve a ?? rabbler" with every *llce of toastid
rh-e-e. and a cobbler In old hou-e'inld parlance was
onlv a -in"- of bread, browne* on ene side.
Another simpi-- dish, which w verv appetizing lo
tart*.* on the supper table, ls buttered toast and rhee**.
Kor thl* dish the toast must he cu' rather thin and
toasted llgbll* over a rather quick fire. It ls a good
plan to mn tlie tire ? little with th" toaster tn order
to keep lbs bread from burning or hardening, und vet
aa-ciire a iebeate, brawn mst on the outside, nutter
-a.. sile- of bread as lt romes from the toaster, and
Cover lt wllh grated el'.ee*,-. to obaaiit the thickness nf
tin- sib c. Keep Hie toast r^ar the ere in a covered
nufltoer till lt u ready for thc t.-ibh*.
rn IN CESS MARIE LOUISE.
TIIK SEW BOURBON 11RIDR.
The coming marriage of Prince Ferdinand of Hul
:arl,i and H.e Prim.-, Marl" Louise of bourbon excite*
iiiuh Intere-t abroad. Tte Prince*-, who In all prob
iMiitv win be a qaeen some day, recently celebrated
tbe twenty third nr.r.'.vrr-ary of her birth, she \a the
-lrtc?t daughter of the Duke of Tarma, who, with l.W
family, hus llv.-*l at -.chlo-* .-*c!,war/.au, in Lower
%B*ttfa, for the last four yean. Tin- Princess ls
noted among ber relatives and friends fnr l.er strik?
ing resemblance to ibe famous Dacteaa af berry,
lin- mother of ibe Conn! de Cbnmbord. A portrait af
the Duclies-i lu her youth, pn.-crvvd at FrohsUorf,
could well pass for that nf the young bride were lt
BOt for the (lifTorel'.oo lu costume. She bas the same
peal Um eyra and the characteristic Hearten nose
Which was a prominent feature of Hie Duchess.
Prince** Marie 1 ? ri clever young woman and takes
in active Interest In all that happens In the worlds
if literature, si lain a*, politics nnd art. She ls an
irtl-t ol no mean talent ; ls n linguist, commanding
i half dozen languages; ls witty, and a good and en?
tertaining talker. Bbc I- proud of her voice, which
ls lovely and nfl In speaking und of good soprano
laality In tinging.
For many year- the Princess has b-cn In charge of
tn English guvernes*, Mi-s Marv Fraser, who bn*
become with Ihe passage of year- so popular with tte
members ol the family that *he nus been promoted
io the rank ot lady lu walting. Thi* Princess ts so
Itlached lo t.'-r that sh" will probably take her to
sotiu when she goes there to share the throne of
bulgaria.
The bride has been brought up In a, simple fashion,
as her paten!- ure averse to undue pomp and for?
mality. She will win the hearts, lt ls firmly tie?
la tad, of the gallant Balgartaaa, who longed, when
Prince Alexander was th.-ir ruler, to see a princes!
at his side.
TAKE CAPE OF THE OVEN.
IT Mt'ST RR KI'.I'T CLf-AN.
The condition of the average rton oven tn which
fo"d and pastry nre baked ls not such as to Inspire
admbntton. In tact, a perfunctairy sort of sweeping
rs about all tte riaanlng mir stove ovens ever receive.
In a gr.'i1 in .nv earn remnanta af dtohea which hove
lolled over remain for amata* charred on the oven
bottom.
Now nil this negiigance in the care of Hie oven
undoubtedly affects the fo.*! rooted lu lt. in some
parts of England when brick oven* an* usid the walls
'f them nr.. whitewashed. This purities Hiern, as
common whitewash, li ls weil known, ta an excellent
disinfectant "f nurra, it would not b.- psarible ta
trait nu ordinary iron rion ntvn in ttiia way, as
Ibe Ilma would corrode tbe oven. In som-* part.* of
Europe, Ibo ovens are tlhd and these mav ba- easily
ar-tshed rican. There ls ao posslhla objection to
arasbtog oal Hie oven of an iron range. If this ls
d me systematical!* at least once a week from the
! "..inning, tbe even will Bever get in tl.e black sooty
condition la which lt i- -.. frequently found.
Winn anything bolls over In tte oven, lt should be
allowed t'i bum to a char, ns lt then may be easily
ump d off and brushed ont. After this the oven should
In- thoroughly aired. It lt a grant mistake to bake a
deUrate denier! or cake or pto tn the same ov>.n with a
u aii-ia "f maui which hu.- been favored with onion*
or s'ruig spi rr. The gavra <>f the mein will in?
variably affect Hie more da-ha-ate dls!ns. The shallo.v
rinse) under Hie baking oven, commonly called th
heating closet, win-r- ? dishes may be temporarily
ki pt warm siter t let ur*- mobed, should be kept ns
rican aa Hie stove oven. It ls certainly a very dta
agreeable and a bari Job to .lean a stove which has
b.-en neglected, bul lt ls a small matter lo keep a
stove clean, If you betta Bl the beginning and never
allow lt to become clogged with soot and dust and
ile debris of fi.ul. The i|ua., (,f every oven should
Le cleaned out
The itu.
mon'li.
THE " MARQUIS" HAT.
DORRET8 QROWIxa BMA-XER.
Poke bonnet* have had their st;,, ni we alni cur?
tailed and are consequently Ima hld.-ons than whee
Ihey fir,t came on th.- irene. Though ttoleta an* not
Un* HMM becoming gowen to wear, tin- violet*
trimmed hit- are certainly charming, riper lally those
hat lng tiny buttonhole ulled bumba*, under Hu- bum.
Tin' French bonnets ami hits ure often an extraordi?
nary Jumble of cobirs. four different Mmdea maaetlmea
appearing -Ide by side; \.-t lhere ta one new shape
now very fashionable In Paris and whbh ta a vt murdi?
ll.ir,U becoming, Ii I- called tte ??Marquis" hut and
la th" mosi -chic" Hiing worn this s-nsoi*. Tbfls cut
?bena a ?? Marquis" made of darb ri irina I violet cloth
trimmed With ribbed velvet ribbon of n somewhat
hghtaT lhaff*, and willi un aigrette nnd two cluster*
of Russian violets and aatc!**a*. Princes* l,a.t.i..-ts
ar.- gp.wing smaller .md beautifully lees, and by the
Uaw -1'fir.u* 1- with us They will tere dl?uppt-nr.d
altogether, If they continue lo decrrara in -i*e ns tbsp
have hlth-ito ba-en doing. A lint "culotte" of )-t
or gold embroidery, with a tuft of feather- (ar flower*,
a Pounce of lae* or an edging of curly plume, nnd
tba. bonnet ta ready for outdoor wear. Wings, how
aver, bala' wings and birds' wings in j.-t. or charming
?oreen stones, like light toned emeralds, an- the novelty
of Hie dav, and for theatre or matinee wenr awtrW
fona.lv brilliant green I- a rery pravalea] and fash
toi.ubie color. Oreen drease*. in fact, an likely to be
u leading feature of the spring season.
DEVOTIOS TO FASHION.
'?Tli'- London Ppertater" utters a de.-patrlng wall on
tbe .subject of woman's de tottan to fashion. ? We
ten ena heard or tatra." li mys, "where the wives'
ejspi-ndlture upon dre-w*. Bbaarhad more than three
fourth* of their histmnds' Income*; nnd we have no
doubt tint thees rama helpmates were not Infre
qaeetty loud In their complaints of mab- extravagance
In Hu- matter of cigars and other mab- delights, lt
would be no exaggeration, we believe, to my thst, with
ron- exceptional, every woman of the middle or upper
etas* wnose income ls restricted suffers tbe pinch of
poverty chiefly by reus*n ot the targe proportion ot
her Income which she devotes to her clothes; or, Sd
least, fe,.u far more personal discomfort from her ea*
forced economy tn that one nnrticu'--- than In aaa
other.
"For thousands of years one half of the world has
grumbled nt tim other half's love of finery. BOB,
today that love of finery has less excuse tbsn lt ever
had before, for lt ls no ..inger -euperfluouH bravery' of
which re complain, bul vulgar ostentation. The chief
offendetw are women who do not seek to adorn their
own charms, but simply tn prove Itel they cnn spend
more money upon their clothes than others. It ls _uch
a pitiful ihow of snobbish pride thal there ls .om*
reasonable hope tl.at a revulsion of good feeling wUl
put a i-top to it. With this end In view, we would Ute
to make a humble suggestion to this effect: That BO
bride who respected benet! should, for the future, pub?
lish the whole il*t of her transl eau for the envy snd
admiration of the outside world. Let her try to
Imagine that the catalogue nf her fio- ks and under?
garments, Iniere-ttng ns lt ls to herself nnd lier ila*
ters, can Lave no Interest for the rest of womankind,
And ak- i we might suggest that great ladles, de pa*
le monde, slnuld consider that the public de-crlprl**
and appnlrameel of their attire ls somewhat derogatory
to the dignity which they wish to support. If only 8
da-rent reticence In tteta matters could be made faah
I mable. Hie -hoddy world might ceusv ti om taking 8
shoddy pride In Its apparel.''
* '?
SPRING FASHIONS.
i tte
roma.
NOTES OX NEW MATKRIALS.
In Paris changeable woollens are In special faro*.
'rji"*e are trimmed with changeable sutln In harmonis?
ing effect, or wit), band*, of black .-atm In direct con*
trast wltb milliner's folds, and ruffles, beaded br
bunds of satin. Thc characteristic of all trimming ol
the sea-on I, to separate lt Into spaces, and thus ex*
tend the effect of the trimming from the edge ol tte
,kii t to within a quarter of a yard of the belt. Dtacb
.-tatln 1- In special demand for trimming black wool
dresses, and at least one serviceable dress of this kind
will be found In almost every woman's wardrobe.
I;'.a..ii sutln ribbon as well as fold* of black satin ta
used to trim the new skirts. oom* of these ar*
trimmed with graduated folds, ranging In width from
(hn-e to tour lathe* up to a narrow, half-Inch width.
und separated with wldu spaces, so that seven or eight
ream extend from the edge of the skirt to within nine
.net.es of the belt. Mill other street dresses an* trimmed
with clusters ot folds lu .werai groups sepa?
rated by wide spaces. Tb* group on the bottom of
the dress contains seven folds, each about two lochee
?IgeS the next group, Just below the knee, bas live
folds of a little narrower width; und tbe group be?
tween tbe natal and the knee has but three fold*, not
over an Inch wide. -Some of the new skirts sro
irlmni'si wllh ruffles, graduated In width from five
Inches to an Inch and a half, ond separated by spaces
rtpml 1* their width. The-e extend from the bottom
of the skirt to a short distance below the watat. Tbe
Mi:in ls hciiiin.d on thu outside wltb the old-fashioned
rolled hems and the ruffles ure blas lo give them th*
proper flare, and ure applied to the skirt without a
h.-iiitlng. some of tba new nifties are made double
In the way they wen- ubout a score of vars ago, and
they ure then applied to tte skirt bv bands of satin,
or a group of titree milliner's folds about aa Inch
wide, Beporatog by apacea.
some of t'.ie pretty changeable bop sackings har*
h.'-n mada up with a .Ingle ruffle of wool about Ita*
Inches wide, lengthened at the top and bottom by a
-trip of dark satin In harmony with tli" wool. Thia
satin ls hemmed on the outside with the old-fashioned
rolled h?m, and ls shirred on to tte dress In a narrow
puff. Thus the satin appear- ut the top In the ruffled
heading and tiny puff, und ut Hie bott.un In tbe effect
of a band. The dark satin ls again introduced In th*
tower part of the sleeves and In the full front ot th*
dress.
The new bodices are usually round at the waist,
though sometimes tbep ore slightly pointed at the bach
and front. They ure tlnish.d with a belt of narrow
folds and high, full sleeves of various kinds. A great
many of the new {bodices will be made with Jacket
rffwta tate spring, as they have been during the win?
ter. Full fronts of crape aro again used ou silk
dresses, but wool dreesso have u front of some of the
various French novelty goods, wherein u black or dark
pile of silk partially covers a gay ground, which ls
utao heightened by tinsel. Then* are utao many otber
novelty goods In fancy silk weaves which will be used
for trimming the hop-Markings, melange twills, snd
wool popgun, which ure imported for spring wear.
Some of the new bodices ure tlnls-nd with deep coltan,
which cover the s|,,,iil(lr*r scams und give the sloping
effect to tho shoulders now esteemed elegant. Thea*
collars may te made of a wide sa*!i-ribhon of satin,
?Mrnd Into shape al thu neck and finished'bv Beveral
standing ruffles of narrow Batt* Ifhtea around the col?
lar, or they may be made of satin "by the piece."
The new cloths for .-pring and summer suitlnga.
which wen* described In Tte Tribune when they wera
first Imported, are now shown In abundance on tb
retail counters. The light, loosely woven wooli
which are known by tte general munn of hop-back?
ing., are especially sought for serviceable street Bowna
for early spring and for travelling gowns later in th*
season. These will be niade up In simple tailor atti*
but with trimming* of satin or of satin ribbons. Tb*
plain hop sacking range* In price from *l up to f2,
and ls generally found In two-toned effect*. Thus tb*
rep of the goods will be a violet-tinted gray, snd th*
woof a dull pink; or the mixture will Le a gray-blue
mid dull yellow: or mauve and dull green will be com?
bined In Hie same way. An adiantage which thea*
goods poss.-.-s ls that they are somewhat wiry and do
not crease easily. A variation of the plain hop-sack?
ing ls tte basket-cloth, a two-toned woollen woven la
rougii basket weave The basket goods range from
?JI 50 to -.ii a yard. The new Snitch cheviots of tbe
season are anna In h-Tiing-bone style. In mixed
olfi'cts Iii a variety of light colors, which are mixed to
form a -aramata-* whole, nnd are heavily flecked bv*
raised threads of knottid wool. Tls-se cheviots are no
longer made up In the severe style of the English
tailor, but are oft?n trimmed with heavy ecru lace*
and usually wltb velvet. They range In price from
92 'ii I* gfl Bb a yard. There are also line Scotch
cheeta in bin.*, brown and white, to wl"|c_ are given
the familiar herringbone effect by a diagonal weave.
They an abm found in various alter mixtures of color
like vlobt, fawn mid. peta, umi pile pay, rose and
yellow. There are al-o Ibu* Kreiiclj cheviots, which
are found at from 7.", cents to .fl BO a tari In simple
melanges, nnd in melanges stilpid nnd Basted wltb
eater. Them psada muko taciHiat dresses tor
rimpta morning wear.
The wool poplins, which are Imported wltb galoon
selvages In color, are re-omnieiidi-d ns durable und
lamtaume gssls wlib li will require very little trim?
ming, except the selvage. Tills Selvage ls wol-n In
ii varletv of Mterei -tripes. Thus a blue gray poplin
hi finished willi half-Inch selvage of darker grav.
strlied wirti lines of pale mauve and pale vr-Ilc/w.
Various other combinations of color are shown In these
goods. persian effects aro found In a variety ol
crinkled cloth*, tigured In a nudley of cashmere colors,
with dotted palm b-aves and other oriental d signs.
Then are also pretty canvas wools In tan and other
light colors, which are tlgured with a waving silk
-tripe, which ls rulsid upon Hm ground like the ilgurea
of the cfepi n wools of la-t season. TbBH stripes aro
in dull, delicate Bbadi I of color, like mauve, pale tur?
quoise or fnded green. A quaint material which will
make up Into ptrtUTtSgue IOOO gowns with trimming*
of black lace shows 8 groundwork like a Muck lac*
grenadine over p-ib- rose or some other delicate color,
ntth plain Ifurea In the color of th-* grimm.
Tte new wool bareges repeal a fabric which has not
been fn millar In our markets since th" departure of
tb- hoop. The-e goods un- figured willi silk tn bay*
arden- efTer*. Illuminated velvet stripes cro--ing tba
wool, and nettled line* In a melange of color striping
lt. Th'*se goods an- gi .1 turd, and may tv made up
Into the quaint, full littra of 1100 with a trimming
of plain or chaiigenbb- latin lr harm miling tones.
There are many sils and Beal goods wllh raised pile,
through which fte under surface of the gooda ls shown
in a contrasting color. Thus an "eminence" purple
bange ls figured tn a mo? v effect with black silk and
shot wlib pule blue, empire green, or ?<iinio other color
In contrast, giving th-- i h-tig-abb- effort ..I Hie t-lours
of the -.tinter. eotm-llme, a material wllh a looae
veiv.-t plte, through whir ii it gav unger surface shows
In r**tn*t. 1* hu"ired In Mara lu tte pattern of a
wnfend silk. Thu* a dirk heliotrope ha* an under
-.iiim.. of pile t.!*i". and ta ttiniri-d with Irretrutar
black ?trlpe. in thl. watered effect. Such nuvf-ltte*
an- u?cd by our best dr---muWs for trimming towna
of rich wool, a portion of the novelty gnni* bein*
shown at fin* rest In Hu. full Mtoon puffs of tra
aleevei; or sometimes In Ihe wide Anne nf Austria
i-ollrir. which -over* t.e sloping sliouldi r-*e*,m>; or tn
the Inge |g|0 teveis,.
Trimmings of Hercule* braid In widths vnrvlnt from
half an Inch le an inc!) and a quarter ure lnrg-lv used
on Scotch cheviot dres.es. They ure put ? n In straight
Mne-, and In curving bond*. Tin- latter I* *o difficult
fm- re dressmaker to sceompllsh suceemtalty thst the
t,nial trr-ty now be found In many of Ihe ah'ip* woven
In curving shape, which mar te- ns eerily n pulled aa a
straight braid, lt range* in price from 10 cents a
yard upward, according to width.
From everywhere com--* fe cry of woe from thoa*
nf moderate Income that last wama'I irofte BIB
practically ti.elev* on account of the present ample
dtmentlons of tht* skirts. Not for years has thara
been sn. a a gem-rat renovation ot Hie wardrobe
needed for those who would be in thi' fashion. Adgeg
ponel. und fronts ara terr obvious makeshifts, sad
there really seems nothing for lt but to buy new
gowns out snd out.
T-snkH are due to James RcCreery dr Co. for arte*
on cloths, and to Rina Frame tor tatormattaa adi tteta
ding gown*.
. *?**??--? "?--.****? ? .j, limii-ta-l