New-York tribune. [volume], July 19, 1897, Page 5, Image 5

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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GOWN OF GREEN STRIPED MUSLIN TRIMMED WITH FLOUNCE AND INSER?
TION OP LACE; SHIRRED BODICE AND SILK FICHU.
HER ART TN RAG-PORTING.
"OLD MOTHER EfCBHARD" IP USEFUL TO
THF. CITY OF NEW-YORK
A WOMAN'S PART IX THE EXPERIMENT AT MOW.
TR1MMIXG, WITHOUT THE MEDIATION OF
CONTRACTOR* COLONEL? WAR?
ING I EXPERIMENT.
All the tob? and cord In tho new yard of the
Ptr?*?*t Cleaning Department aro handln] by a
woman, and so skilful has "he become that she
sort? th?*m Into th-ir ?ix divisions?black, white
and mixed rags, carpet, twin.* and bagging?with
s?carcely an apparent glance at th.m. In tho yard
sh? is called, for short, "Old Mother llnhhard." her
real name, according to Inspector A. w, Foote,
beine "several feel Iona "
Day after day during th?* hottest weather, when
evon airy balconies nnd broa?!, shady verandas
cease to be comfortable, Old Mother Hubbard
works, under the sloping roof, in the back corner
of a shed?rag* to the fronl of h? r. rags t?? th?*
r?*ar of her, bale? of rags all around her-In a light
whl.-h Is dim if not religious, snd In an atmos?
phere that would bake a salamander. She has
been In this business eighteen years, and has not
learned to like the smell y ?
HISTORY OP THE TARD.
P!spo?ltIori Yard Xn. ] was opened In May by the
Btre-; Cleaning Department at No. CM Basi Elgh
t?ts**nth-st., under thi charge of Acting Inspector A.
W. Poote. Before verj long i'olonel Waring in?
tends :o have ?? ? isi ten such yards In operation,
In 1*99 the d:y received the equivalent of tlKi.'SA?
fer cnw-trimmlng ??,??? in ire?? labor nnd JM.MO
In ' av),. The Department, hy Its new syst?'m, do?*??
the work that the contra? tor? fonn?rly did, turn?
ing over the profits therefrom to the city.
All rubbish (and ihis comprises everything which
fall? Into the hai,?is of the Street Cleaning D?part?
ie? al except a<het and food wa?te) from the por
lloi of the ci:y bounded on the cast by the Baal
River, on the ?real by th?* Bowery an?! Fifth arni
S nth aves., on the ?outh by Mxth-st. and on the
north by Twer.;?, -elphth-st. Is brought to Dlsposi
V.ird No. 1 and dumped into the pit. A belt
four feet wide, extending to the engine ami fnr
nace, Sixty feet away, slowly ascends from this
hole, bearing upward and onward the nondescript
mas?. Along the .?id? s of the belt sit from twenty
to thirty man and women, selecting and throwing
Into barrel? before it passes iherr. the sort assign????,
them to ?-??tier.
The paper Is divided Into five classe?*--mixed,
manila, newspaper, strawboard and ledger, the
iti.? Including ??!1 fin?* papers, such as ar?' used
for magai nd writing. From the barrels It Is
emptied Into one of the four paper presses, and
1??- ,?i forth Bgaln a s<j>i''r>'. solid bale of ?even or
eicht hundredweight, and re.nly to begin a new
career,
The raps, a? has been said, are nl) emptied into
o;,i Mother Hubbard's corner, and the various
Barts go ;'ito the rag press aad come out bale?l .nul
. ? ?? more ms ; k?? table.
WARTE THAT IS NOT WASTED.
The bottle?, separated into thre* divisions?"beer
rnd soda." "milk ar?d siphon" and "ordinary"?are
piled up, waiting to be sold by the barrel
Shoes have two classifications?those " In bulk"
er.il those "?n pairs." The former are the worst
ones and are sold I.y the load. The latter can he
lejuveiiated by second-hand dealer*, and again go
Into service as fooiwear. Th?? heap of old iron
contains every ki:.?i of a w?apon or utensil which
ha? issoed from a blacksmith's shop.
The gems of the coli??'?!Ion ar?? kept under lock
and k".v In a wooden closet. At the time of the
reporter's visit there wi r ? three hundred pounds
of zinc, six hundred pound.? of brass, nine hundred
pcunds of rubber, twenty pounds of haircloth and
twenty-three pounds of curled hair, besides a mot?
ley and pathetic array of cast-away hat-'.
After all the desirable portion has been picked
from tr??? belt, tr,*? rejected part, not even yet use?
less, rolls along, climb- with 'he belt into the open?
ing over ?he furnace, ii.to which It pours and fur?
nishes fuel for tii?? ????,??* engine which runs the
belt, and for the blower which fans the fire and
blows away Its s shea Thus there Is no expense
for fuel in the working of the vani.
About forty-five loads of rubbish are taken into
the yard dally, and from that amount twenty-five
or twen;y-slx bales of rags are turned out.
One small class of rubbish still remains waste
and has to be carted to the scows. This Is made up
of fragments of glass, crockery ar.d pottery, for
which as yet there is no use.
The yard is provided with hose ln case of fire
ard !s sprinkle?! three times a day, disinfectants
being used on Ihe sheds.
I.1VK KITTF.XB FOI'XD.
"Every Imaginable thing."' says Inspector Foote.
"cornee ln on the belt. I'pon unrolling a paper
parc?-l one day three live Kittens, with their eyee
Just open, were found. The engineer, who has a
heart for eats, fed them for several ?lays, and then
found homes for th?m."
A dilapidated stuffed peacock rolled up one day.
and now, by way of ?!e. oration, with b?-drnggl?<l
'all and a hOW-CO?mo-you-BO" air, porches or the
doorway of a shed, the most conspicuous object ln
the y?rd. Th*-r?? bave been found Bible* scent bot?
tle?, spettarli??? nini several different kinds or coin
about eighteen cents in coppers and u ?itm?? ?since
the ilrst of the month.
On June 2', a dried and withered human arm hove
In sight from the pit, to the horror of the sort? rs.
It was turned over to a policeman, who b..r.? It.
wrapped in n<ewspapers, to the station-house, foi
?"v.ed, Mr Poote assured the reporter, "by a
small but enthusiastic crowd."
a very elaborate and pleasant-amelllng scent
bottle in? day timed up. and was eagerl) seised
by a cart driver, who. ..f'.r regaling himself with
the perfume, proceeded t?> dab .t on his blue shirt.
It prove j to be mixed with some kind of acni, snd
left brilliant spots of yellow ,?11 over the *hlrt.
Mr. I-'o'/te has made a ili tie garden out of plant"
from the pit ? lettuce plant, a petunia, a red ge?
ranium and three small axa lees. These he reports
to be doing fairly urell, A piece of old sail pro?
tects th? ?<? waifs of the vegetabll world during
the scorching hours of the summer day.
? - ?
CHILDREN'S CORNER.
Here Is on? of seven-year-old Will!?? Painter's
compositions on "True Happiness":
Some peoph' ihlnk If tiny were rich they would
be happy, but money nevi r brought happlii'H?, and
some of the r!ch<es1 people in New-Tork City are
sick half of the lime and are r-Msequently very un?
happy. There are others, i.k. Beth l.ow. whose
greatest happiness la to make others happy. He
gave "f.-OCO to the free kindergarten, and l am sure
that ma?!'? a gr.'iit man) happy children. If w?? al?
ways try to be good is?- will succeed in bring
happy, end when 1 am most . appy is when I please
man.rna. WILLIE PAINTER
?
G1YE PLENTY OF FRESH All!.
A alck room should always be well ventilated.
Pure, fresh air ls That the shut-In patient needs,
and while direct draughts should never be permit te.?.
ta strike tha Invalid, plenty of good, fresh air
BhoaUI lio allowed to circulate through the room.
in the Bummer asason, especially, Ihe patient should
never he starved for pura .tir.
JELLIES AND JAMS AND OENBRAL HINTS
FOR HOUSBHOLD COMFORT.
Whit visions of crimson jams nnil translucent Jel?
lies the mention of flamson plums recalls! Ami?! all
the new varieties of plum none excels In usefulness
nor in prolific bearing that ?mall purple fruii, it Is
s'ill a Btandard variety of our markets anil su?
perior for jelly, jam or for a spleni plum to gages
or the newer prunes,
To make damson jelly stem a peck of perfectly
ripe plums, put in a stone jar anil set the jar in a
keltic of water reaching nearly tifi to the mouth of
Hip jar. Let the water boll aronnil the jar until the
plums are thoroughly cooked, it will take twenty
fire or thirty minutes if the jar Is closely covered,
as it should he.
Strain the juice from the plums after they are
cooked. It may save trouble to flrst remove the
skins and stones by passini; the fruit through a
?(?lander. The pulp and luice are then left. To
make the finest quality of jelly allow the pulp to
drip through a roars? cloth without using any pres?
sure, S.ive the pulp lef? In the cloth fo;? spi'cd
jam. Meaaure the juice, allow I* to stand over
night in a COM place. The nex' morning allow a
pound of sugar to a pint of Julep. I.et the julre boil
up over the fire, and set the sugar on a pan In the
oven to bcomc hot. When the Juice has boiled
down for twenty minutes, add the ho> sugar. Let
it boil up as soon as tho sugar melts, and ai'<T It
has boiled a moment skim It and teg; it.
If it is formed strain it through a bright new
gravy .??trainer into tumblers. If it has not "come"
to a jelly, let It boil until it does.
?\???? TO DO WI'lH THE PULP.
The pulp which was saved may have a cup of
vinegar added to every sorefl pints of pulp, with
three and a half pounds of sugar, f'ook it unti! It
Is a tnlok suhstar.ee?almos? a marmalade. Allow
nn ounce of cinnamon and half an mine; of cloves,
and add the apllOS. powdered a few moments be
lor* t.iking up the jam. This is a good conserve to
put on the table with roas? mutton and other meals.
RECIPE FOU JAM.
A Jam of the finest quality Is made of the full
pulp and juice of the fruit. Stem the pluma and
weigh them Allow three quarters of a pound of
sugar to a pound of fruit. Mar.h the plums a little
and cook them In a porr-elain-llned kettle. Add
about a pint of water to a peek of plums, if they
do not seem to be Juicy enough without It. If It !..
posatUo, however, avoid adding water and cook
the plums in their own Juice, as any water added
must bg afterward boiled out, anil the more a pre
acrve Is c ?ok.'d the more the fresh flavor is im
palred.
There Is a dlfferenoe In damsons at different sea?
sons. Some seasons they are more Juicy than at
oilier??. After the plums have boiled ten or twelve
miniit'-s, .strain out the skins and stones through a
colander. Adii the sugar to the pulp and boll the
jam <!own for about ?went) minutes, or until It is a
thick but hardly a firm preserve.
Housekeepers should remember that damson
plums make a mo?t delicious pickled plum.
WINDOW SCREEN OF SWEET PFAS.
A kitchen window screen of sweet peas Is easily
secured and Is a g.'nuine pleasure nnd satisfaction.
For the benefit of those who would like one next
year tho following Instructions are given:
Take a long, narrow box, and have It filled with
rich, well-pulverIsed dirt with which a small quan?
tity of sand has been mixed. Place the box in a
window, or Just on the outside ledge, where there
will not be too much sunshlni. Plant the peaa
and make a trellis of wire or twine on the outer
edge of the box and run It up several fc?t. for
tli ? higher sweet peas are trained Ihe more plenti?
ful will he their blooms. Nip off the fulled blos?
soms before they can go to se^d, and the succes?
sion of flowers will last longer. Wat?r night and
morning.
G ARAM RI. CUSTARD.
The following recipe for caramel custard Is said
to be excellent: To one quart of milk allow four
eggs well beaten: place the milk In a double holler
and allow It to reach the boiling point. Caramel
flavoring should be kept ready for usp, and Is made
by putting a ?-up of granulated sugar In a sauce,
pun, setting It over the fire ami letting It stay until
almost black, being careful to stir It all the while.
When It la still bubbling and smoking pour In a
cup of boiling water, boll f'.r two minutes, then
remove; let it cool, nnd botti?? lt. After the boiled
milk has cooled add the egg? and four tablespoon
fula of the caramel, stirring all until the mixture
Is perfectly smooth. Hake for a half-hour In a
moderate ?>???p: then take It out. allow It to cool,
nn.i cut In slices.
PINF.APPI.K (M'STARO.
Pineapples are so fresh snd plentiful now. and
are so wholesome an! refreshing, that the follow?
ing tried recipe for pineapple custard pie may be
of use to housekeepers: Mired thoroufhly ripe
pineapples until you have two CUpfula; ?uhi one
cup of granulated sugar and Ihe y?<lks of four
.ggs well beaten. Stir In a pli.t of milk which
ha a been s< aided- not boiled and which has been
allowed to cool; then add the arhltea of the ?
beaten stiff, and stir all thoroughly, l'ut the
pastry on tin plate? and bake in 111 ihe crusts are
?.. n ami bru a ti looking.
To make plneappW sauce, which Is ex?-ell?'ni
when cold, grate a small pineapple and let it wim
nii-i- in a half-pint ?if water, when you lake it off
?,.id a fourth of a cup nf sugar. Always leave oui
the linle hard bits of the pineapple In whatever
dish I'OU make.
?
ASSISTANT FACTORY INSFECTOB.
Pev?n women recently took Ihe <'|vll Service ex?
amination In Buffalo for the ???loe of Assistant
Factory InapOCtor, and the name of the successful
candidate Brill bS announced In a few days. The
law r?<|iilr?-s that Ibe oflh-e ?hall he filled by /?
woman.
The duties of the Factory Inspector ar?? to vieti
all Mercantile establishments where women nn?l
children an employed, and t?> ase thai ihe lawa
nina ih? m are enforced The examination
?all. for a thorough familiari!?/ with these law.?
, ,n ? general Knowledge of affairs The ?omen
?xsmlneil In this ?-ase were unusually ?npable, an.l
it u expected that the one aeleeted will be pe?
culiarly well fitted for the office. The candidate.
?re Bertha O. White. fcva iVhsse Mrs ? A. Itob
Emm Mary A. Laughlln, Jullu A Rlechert. Jo
iephlne Phalen and Alice A. Flupatrlck.
ONE YEAR OF ART FOR 8200.
M P.S. WORSWICK'f? ECONOMICAL TRIP
TO PARIS AND MINICI!.
AU. HER BXPBMSM FROM RffBRASKA TO EU?
ROPE ARD back, iRcuroiira BOARD
AND IvOIiOlXO. I.KSS THAN IM
-an sxpmstawcsi,
When a woman .-?ccompl?shcs the feat of studying
art for one year In Paris and Munich at a cost cf
l-O. she at once becomes a person of Inti-rest. Mrs.
Alice Howl,md Worswick. of ' lleatrlce, Neb., has
had the courage and persistence to a?compiish
this. She passed through New-York last week on
her way home, ami talked with a Tribune reporter
On her experience?.
Mrs. Worswick Is a ?lellcate-loi king little woman,
less than thirty years old. She has taught paint?
ing In her own Stat?? for more than ten \cars.
Her desire to go abroad and study formed itself in
her mind when she found herself with a few hun?
dred dollars ah? ad.
"I determined thai MM should pay the expenses
of my trip.'* she agid, "I had taught every one of
my pupils nil I knew myself. I had to Improve or
stand still, so I planned the trip. Ttavlllng ?-y,?
Jens? s from Nebraska to Munich and then to l'ari??.
nnd from there bom?? again, have amounted to
IMS I travelled Biat ?'lass on ihe ocean, but on
land I denied myself sie.-ping-i ar comforts In order
to economize.
"On the other side I share.l my quarters with an
American woman who was as seakHM fOf economy
as I was We took a small room In the vicinity of
the art class where wa were tn study. We paid
U a month for it. Of ?ourse, you ? an't l-'et any?
thing so cheap as that In New-York. The room
was large ? -notigli to contain two couches, and we
bad eonvonienrea for cooking In s ^uiail elooel ad?
joining. These kitchen closets are tilted up for
aludenta They contain a small stove and shelves
oti wbi.ii ar.? the necessary rooking utensils and
?lisl.es.
?"HEAP BUT TOLRRABI.R FOOD.
"The foe.] we induis??.1 ;n was, of necessity, of
the plainest kin.l. We bough! mi buter and only
a little meat, ga both >?f th??-?? ertlclea ar?? expen?
sive. In place of coffe? we drank malt, a rerenl
pr?paration that la v? ry wholfSOSas and only costs
six cents a package. One paekase lenta iwe
people nearly three weeks. It Is v.hoK-onie, and
douhtlea? better for ihe nerves than coffe.?. While
In Parta we lived In the Latin ?,Marter, m order
to be near our work. Out room was on the sixth
floor, and the labor of ascent would have worn out
less sealoua women, l fear.
"The lessons In the art clasa cost $1 a month, my
room rent waa J- per month, .and the food I ate
averaged j; ? month. After thai we had fuel and
light? to buy. but. a? lh? re were two of US, wc
Bhared th?? same lite and lamp. That made a
; material reduction. \v?? ?n?? <>'?G o?'" washing, snd
j In order to facilitate the laundry work we wore as
| simp!?? underwear an?! as little of it as possible.
; As 1 sum it up I believe It took more of grit and
determination to carry the plan through than It
di?l of cleverness.
"We studied the various foods to find the most
j nourishing, and we never invested In anything that
1 would not yield essential properties. Vegetables
! are very ?heap in l'ari?. We coiil?! buy thirty
; radishes in a bunch for one cent. Potatoes were
Cheap, too. I dare say one could not keep up that
kin.l of living right alonir. year In and year out,
not because It would not sustain life, but because
of the Inclination to self-neglecl among students
and a. tendency to burn th?? ?-amile at both ends
Of course, there is a nerve w? ar-and-tear In study
that should b.? relieved by a good wholesome dbt,
and Ihe one afforded by ii r,o i week certainly lias
a monoton?.? about It.
THE GIRLS' CLUB HOUSM.
"All the Anvrican girl? go dally to the Girla*
Hub house, maintained by Mrs. Whltelaw Reld
nnd other women. Te.i |g aerved there every after
nooi at 5 o'clock, Graham bread and butter, with
meat sandwiches and Fr? neh cakes, are also a part
of the menu. This catchea the art students in
their way home from the studio, and the refresh?
ment sustains them until their dinner hour.''
In response to a question about what j? most
needed for the comfort and convenience of Amer?
ican girl.- in Paria, Mrs Worswick .-ail:
"A home for girls is needed mor? than anything
else. It is my firm conviction that art students,
especially the young ones, require mure restraint.
They hare too much liberty. I think m.-ithers are
venr Slow in recognising danger arhen they allow
their daughter, tu go to Paris unprotected and un?
attended. Th" influence j? none too good in a great
?ity like New-York, and the dangers ate very many.
but in Parli where the atmosphere Is full of tne
camaraderie so arell explained by Ibi Maurier In
Trilli:?.' the peril i.-? tenfold greater. The American
Institute, situated near tin Arc de Triomphe. Is
th?? kin ? .f a place needed in the Latin quarter.
This Institut?? Is loo remote from the srudios. and
it is also too expensive. The art student needs
some older woman to watch over her, te look a'ter
her clothes and her food and her general comforts
The American giri grows m?>re Independent and
more carel.-ss every year she lives there. Her life.
over there is. In fact, a great problem. Sometimes
she grows discouraged. The recent fate of the
Philadelphia girt, Miss Well, who threw herself
int?> th? Seine, illustrates the depth? of anguish
and despair to Which the art atudent'a tempera?
ment I? subject. Too often there is a lack of talent,
for only about one in ?Ix Is poaaessed ??f tne requl
site ability. Sometlm?-s tho discouragements are
more than they can bear."
COIN^l APROAD TOO SOON.
Speaking of the amoun* of training required be?
fore an arti?t should enter a for?-lgn class, Mrs.
Worswick said:
"The American girl frequently makes a great
mistake In going abroad too soon to Study, She
Is not ready for ? he criticism of the master In
whose class she enters. She has no Idea what Is
meant by his criticism 'Tiie values are all wrong'
or 'The construction I? very ha?l ' The mastir re?
marks this as he passes along on his tour of In?
spection. He never explains, but leaves her to
find out what he means as bes' she can. To the
student who does not progress he pays no atten?
tion whatever. The one to whom he doe* devote
some attention or extra criticism feel? at once that
the master recogniaea talent. It i? a very simple
uni common occurrence for a student to grow dis?
satisfied, discouraged and Anally become a vic?
tim to melancholia Mothers should know that if
their daughter! ?In not write b ?me frequently they
are not In a healthy frame of mind.
"With regard to a home for students. It goes with?
out saying that the art ?tudenl objecta t.. any
restraint Whatever, hut any one who lives In the
Pari? atudent'a atmosphere feels sure that too
much liberty I.? not a gool thing. A home that is
a happy medium between absolute fr-edom and
convent discipline is the one that Is necessary, and
then Amer!, an parents should see that their daugh?
ters patronize It."
Crf?r7 FOR SOFT CORSf,,
A concentrated solution of tannin, says "Tiie Rr|f
Ish Medical Journal." made by dissolving an ounce
of freshly made tannin In six drams of water
with the aid of gentle heat, gives Immediate relief
to soft corns. If applied once or twice a day between
the toes after washing. Tannin In powder is not
quite no effectual.
"The Medical Brief gives the following recipes
for curing soft corns- First, keep the toes con?
stantly open by placing a wad or cotton between
them. Second, wear broad-toed ?hoes made of soft
leather. Third, bathe the feet in warm water every
night, wipe them dry an.l apply aqua ammonia to
the corn.
Soft corns are caused hy Bl|liesilllg t!ie feet In
narrow-toe?! shoes. Ry keeping the toes apart you
remove the cause and cure the corn.
SEVERAL FREE SCHOLARSHIPS.
A limtted number of fr.?.? scholar.hlps have been
rIv, ? the School of Industrial Art nn.i Practical De?
sign by prominent clubs no,| society women. Appli?
cants for these acbolarshlpa apply at the school, N0.
Ml W.st Tweniy-tiilrd-st , to-day. Wednesday and
Fri lay. Inly !!> -1 and _*!, from 10 o'clock n. m. to
II m.. bringing with them specimens of their work
in any artistic Une. These scholarships are val
n. I ,,t MM each, an.l arili enable the beneSciarlea
? be in- ?elf-supportlng by giving them Instruc?
tion i'i practical designing for silks, wall-papera,
carpets of all -rad???, ?t lined glass, book-covers,
dress geoda ?md all t.-xtii??-. both printed and woven.
Th.? president of thi- Incorporated institution.
Mrs. Florence Rjlteabeth CVwy ha? been f,,r over
twenty yean IdeniiiVed srlth the education of ?omen I
in toe pr.?? -?,? il liidii-Mil.il art, and s???. etit.-en ye_ra '
?go founded ? il achool.
Women ??" Inuahl ?? mak?? practical working de. '
six?.? fur goods where Ihe pattern I? brouaht to the '
surface ,.?. m?? n - ??: ihe Jacquard loom. The ??., ?
trl.-a??!??? of designing practically for carpeta bro
rades, rsw-ellli furti lure coverings, Marsein.-s I
quilts and goods Of like natili.?. ha\l ,g been ?leenie.J
in ether institutions t.llfrb-ui: lor the feminine I
mind to master, therefore In theae ?di.ml? arel
taughl merelj .b* simple bra ne bea el design for
prtllled goods.
???.? ?u.??.?-??. however, of the pupil? of this school
of practical design in t.?txialnlng of lucrative
pla< ? in the deaign rooms of factortea and in
[be Rale to manufacturera of Iheli work, provea
tb.it aromen ran and do maatei the requirement*
? ? imitation?? of machiner] and learn to ?ion\
lb, ,t ,!? sign? to tin m
Any girl ar woman who Is faithful and persever?
ing, who cuti do neat ?.ireful wotkm inship. whi
can prove lier neceaalty of becoming self-support
ing. ner desire for this education and her utter
Inability to pay for Instru.'tlon. Is eligible for a
scholarship She must, of course, be prepared to
give satisfactory references as to worth, and muat
ahow evidence of a taste for artistic worth.
SHE DISLIKED NATOLEON.
INTKRESTIXO INCIDENTS IN THE LIFE
OF MRS. CHAULES KOEHLER.
m.trilFR TROTTE? HER ON 1113 KNEES-SHE
RECEIVED A PART OT QUEER VKTORIA'S
WEPPPtO i'AKE- M'MIHE DEDICATED
THE I.AHT BOM I>1* IOM*
MSB" TO* REE.
Mr? r-harles K?hler, whose death ??ccuired on
Sa nirda ? leal at the home of h.*r daughter. Mrs.
8 M Saiinders, ?a. M South Kourth-av... Mount
Verr.on, was on?? of the few parsons living
in the present time who saw Xapoleon, an.l was
one of the sumlvors of the period In wi.i.'h he
tired. Her maiil-n name was Amelia oiTergeld,
and she was born at Alx-la-Chapelle. In France, la
1m?... Her father was an officer under general
RlttCher, in the Prussian Army, who had married
MhM Haas, u woman of aristocratic birth. Whose
hou.?? was on the Isle of Wight. General l!lu?-h?r
Was a tr. i|u--i?t \ IsltOT to her father's vlha, and
siie remen.her. d him well, as he used to t.ik. her In
his arms and Hot her on his knee, while discussing
military affairs with Inferior officers. Mrs.
Kollier had a faint recoll??tloii of Xapoleon, and
how she w.?- constrained to think of him with the
must intense aversion. Her father was retircil
wh-ii she was about tlfte.-n yea!*! old, aid spent
ihe remainder ?jf his in?? in London ami ? he isle
,,f Wight Amelia, when sixteen years ui?j. was
married to Charles K?hler, who for man) year?
was an importer in London. One of th?? trost In?
teresting things abolii Mrs. Kdhler's career, Is
that Tilomas Moore's "Last Kos?? of Bummer,
was dedicated to her. 'ihe incident is most io?
ni, ulti??. Mrs. Kohl? ? ?. ,?.?- ? beautiful young woman.
Sh.? wa- mu. a BttaclKE- t?> Moores sister, who
kept a privat, school in I.un.ion. and Hi?? poet saw
her ther,. ire.pi.-n">?. They w.re sitting one night
In the garden When sh?? plucked a rose, ,in?l. hold?
ing n up be foie him, exclaimed: ''Look, ? have
plucked th- lasl rose ?? summer..1'h.n is a
beautiful suggestion," said .Moore, meditatively,
m.I when he wrote "The Lasl Ros?? ??r Bummer'
he dedicated It to her, ami aenl her .? beautifully
bound copy, which ?- "tin in th?? possession ol the
| fa? ???
Amu h??? Interesting keepsake left by Mr?. K?hler
i-? .. ,,. ?, -.? ?..?.,. ??,-toria'B w. ddlng cjk??. ?,
ha? been preserved sii. ihe e/eddlna took plaire, on
| Kein ii.ii ? ,??, IMO, ji, ? he eh ? ?'??? Of Bl James's l'ala? e
The cake was ?hen ?,, her by Lady Blakely, who
was ,,ne ot th? maid- of honor I: was originally a
?pi nt.r pi??!.?, bui guests and friends picked off par
tides until it Is now onlj one-eighth Its original
-iz??. Mrs. Kohle; was finally obliged to place ii In
s silver ease, with a glass rover. Twen y-tiv?? years
ago, when the Queen celebrated nei Jubilee, the
rake wa> seni ?-? an exhibit, in care ol Lord Pon
sonby. Il? r Majesty returned thi cake with ? ?st?
ier to Ills Lordship, thanking Mi?. K?hler, ami s?
th?? end sdded an annotation, l.kuigl?. which read:
"Can this be Ihe cake?" The no:??, which Is In the
possession of the family, Is signed "Vie."
Mrs K?hler had (>?>? ds tghters, and descendants
in America, Prance snd nearly all Ihe Rritish colo?
nie-?, a number of th-m being prominently Identified
with the British Oovrrnmeni service.
\,... j.,_,... __,
...... ...- ....... - , , - . ' , . ? I , . , F , - ? ,? [?1 ? .
Mrs, Baundera is the only om of the daughters
?lio survives, and h.r mother .had been living with
ii??; for thirteen years.
a^^sj-ilNt
?-??
Communications hav.* been recehred from K. A.
T. H. ?.. Mrs .). W. IL. I*. II. I., M. I?'. Catyman,
Or.ic? Huffsmlth, .1. K. C, Miss Ida M. Severn.
Mi?s ft m. w.ich. Maggie Welgel, Mrs. M. S.
Curt?as, Mrs. a. li. Oardenler, Edmund Burk, Har
ri??: ?. Nerwcome, Mrs. (Jeorge it. Roys, .May it.
Morgan and Mrs. }?'. B. Ii.
All contribution? were Hied, and will either b??
-?iiblish?'?! in th?? Bunshlne Column or "passed on"
to Sunshine members, win those who sent con?
tributions inclose a two-???n: stamp for T. S. 3.
pins? All nani.?.; have been enrolled.
A box of beautiful flowrs was received yester?
day from th?? Junior League, of llelghtstown, X. .1.
They were distributed to "shut-ins.?? who seemed
happy to receive them, and who sent many messages
?>f sppreclatlon to the thoughtful lini, senders.
Mrs. j| |.; tfewcome's poem will be sen) to an
Invalid who is making scrapbooks. Mrs. G. B. H.'s
verses will siso be seni to .? Bunshlne member,
Mrs. Rtrang sends Ihe following poem to the
Sunshine I'olumn:
WHAT WOULDfTT THOU RK?
A blessing to each on?? surrounding me,
A ?hall???? of ?lew tri th?? weary heart,
A sunbeam of Joy, bidding sorrow depart.
To the storm-tossed vessel a beacon light,
A nightingale son?,' In the darkest night,
A beckoning hand to a far off goal.
An angel of I???.??? to each friendless soul.
Such would I b??.
iih' that such happiness were for me!
BEGINNING Ai'-.MX.
When sometimes ?? r f?eel grow weary * '
On the ruggeil hill? of life,
Th?? path stretching long and dreary,
With trial an.l labor rife.
We piuse on the upward journev,
(Dancing backward ..Vr valley and glen,
And sigh with an Infinite longing
To r? turn and "begin Bgaln":
For beh I ? I is tin? dew of the morning
With all its fresbi .ss and light.
Ami before us ar?? doubts and shadow?
Ami the ?i'ill and gloom of the night;
Ami w?? think of th?? sunny places
We passed so carelessly then
And ?" sigh "O Pa ther, permit us
To return and 'begin again.'"
?\?* think of the many dear ones
Whose lives touched ours ;.t times,
Whose loving thoughts and pleasant smileg
Ploal hack lik?? reaper chimes,
And we sadly remember burdens
We might have lightened then
All, gladly would we ease them,
Could w>? "begin again."
And yet. how vain the asking!
Life's duties press all of us on.
And who would shrink from the burden,
Or sigh for the sunshine that's gone?
Ami It may be not far on bifore Us
Wait nlacei fairer than then:
Our paths may ye) lead by still waters, G
Though we may not "begin again."
T-s. upward and onward forever
Re our paths on the hills of life.
Kill .re long a radiant dawning
Will glorify trial and strife.
And our Father's hand will ??*??1 us
Tenderly upward then;
In the Joy and pence of the better world
He'll l?t us "begin again."
The above piece of poetry was sent by B. fl. ?.
"Who will tell her the author?
THE DAY'S GOSSIP.
The women In England Introduced a pleasant In?
novation in the Jnbllee dinner given recently In the
Qrafton Galleries In London, by each woman in?
viting a distinguished man.
The programme for to-day of the Ocean Grove
Sunday-school ChaUtauqua Assembly Is ns follows:
Morning: 8 o'clock, boys* and girls' hour; "Pic?
torial Recreation," Professor Bradford: fifth Bible
lesson. "David the King," Mrs. Loomls; 9 o'clock,
devotional hour; young people's meeting: holi?
ness meeting! IO O'clock, normal hour; fifth l?s
son, "Laws of the Work: Individuality nnd Concen?
tration." Auditorium platform; Biblical department,
fifth lesson, "The Kingdom mid Captivity ot
Judah."
Afternoon: .1 o'clock, musical recreation, Audi?
torium; assembly choir and Hr Bweney; *> o'clock.
C. L. S. C. Round Table; lo,?ie. "Social Spirit III
America." Miss Teal; X O'clock, frull?i combinati m
entertainment, the Bals?n photoscope, with movine
pictures ami music.
The Professional Woman's League will discuss
"The Drama" this afternoon nt I o'clock.
- ?
MOIST VERMIN NEWS.
Mr and Mr- 'bar?es if, Wlllsoo ami their daugh?
ter, Waneta, who recently returned from two
?..ars' study In Dnsden. are nn their summer tour
through Mew England
Professor William ?.?). ?:??? y ami his wife and
daughter ar?? si -Rara*- ?Lake.
Mr am! Mrs. Harr?.? LOW hav?? been away, at
PeekskUl and otbt r placea,
Miss Hat Ht ? Raul .?ml Mrs Herbert Rrown
,,?.. delegates t?. the Kpworth League International
? 'cnventlon.
Mrs 1. 1". Plebi nini SOM have gone to Pister
County, X V.
Mr ami Mrs. Charles B. Lawrence ar.? at Wa
dell. N. J
I?r and Mrs Melville ? Rag.? may ?o to Europe
In a few W? efcs
Mrs. Theodore Raker ?ailed for Leipale, Oermany,
last week
Mrs Suphla S Johnson Is visiting In the neigh?
borhood of Xorfolk. ??????. W||h her son .?\.?,..
.. n bl) man Oeorge ? Johnson.
Mr and Mr? S .1. Johnson a-e In the Catskllls.
Mrs. Riirr Davis ami Mrs Hoars Capron ar.? at
th. White Mountains
Mr? W. I- Many ami son are In I'lster County,
X Y
Miss Josephine I'anlncr has gone to Massachu?
setts for a few ?lay?, and ?ill ih?n go to the I'at.i
klll?.
The Rev. I?r. W. A. ? ?ranger and wife are sum?
mering at Hroadalbln, tt. Y.
The Miss, s ?leorgle and Sa?lle Taylor are spend?
ing their vacations In Xew-Jereey.
DAINTY PARIS GOWXS.
CREATIONS IN EaSCI AND INSERTION
THAT DKI.IOHT THF WTBB Of LOV?
ERS OF THE I.EAFTIFI'I..
Tllack Insertion I???. In the material In stripes,
bars or various desl.rns Is the latest vogue In sum?
mer gown". Figured organdies or white mus,Ins
are partlOttlariy pretty trimmed In this way. An
effective design la that of bow knots placed on
each bfcadth, with the ends arranged as If they
were floating and forming a border. Afler the In?
sertion has bean applied Bat, In this way or In any
oilier fashion desired, It Is sewn on, arid afterward
the material Is cut out tind?rneath, the edges
turned In and overhanded, A French gown f.om
the Maison Nlcaud, which Is trimmed with Inser?
tion bow knots. Is of ecru muslin, made over
mauve falli??. The muslin skirt has the bows of In?
sertion applied in the manner describid, the edge
of the hem being finish?'?! with a tiny ruche of
mauve mousseline de sole, the underskirt of the
mauve silk being quite plain.
Tbe bodl???- is charming, consisting of a tiny
bolero of the ecru muslin made in two placati the
m\?? '?
1|^
" %?- '?? %Si_ VI
^Xr?
ffm\\ TO \ /
^jL? L >>h_-?_- ->*
<M*>
flOWN of GREEN FOULARD TRIMMED WITH
INSERTIONS OF LACE AND RITI!INOS OF
CHIFFON.
upper ?ine being liK?? an open yoke and tho under
??ne placed a little further back, giving tha effect
of two points. Till? is worn over I blouse of the
mauve faille, made srlth thr?.? groupa of tucks,
one around the neck, forming the collar, the next
about thr???? Inchea below and the third an .'qua;
dlatance below the second. Between theae groupa
the ?uk is covered with mauve mouaaellna da ? le,
which, from tii?? low? ?- one, hangs in s full blouse
and la confined at the wai-t by ? mauve ribbon.
The aieevea ar?? ?>; silk, and have groupa of tucks
at Intervals of the entire length.
Another gown w?di worth ? description is a *!?*?
Ilclous confection of ?iik and linen, embroidered
with flowr. in pale tinta. The skirt i? scalloped
a. the bottoni, is ..I-..I with a tiny lace ruffle and
la made ovei a second iklri ol pale blue aatln. The
bodice i? a blouse, over which ?? worn s larga <ol
,.???, covering the ahouldera and hanging in two
labs nearly 10 the waist, This is of the palest
rose-colored taffeta?, embroidered in white nnd
DRESS OF EMBROIDERED CHIFFON ANL?
ROSE-PINK BILK.
edged with a little lace ?utile similar to thai an tha
skirt. The sleeves are wrinkled from top to bot?
tom, and the bi-lt is ..t blue satin, fastening at the
aide with a chou of narrow black velvet ribbon, the
collar being also of bluck v? Ivet.
Another frock is u green mouaeellne de aole,
printed with mauve and white (lowers. Five nar?
row Bounces of thi same material finish the skirt,
The bodice is a plain Mouse, with wrinkled ileeves,
the waist being almost entirely covered with a
collarette mail?- with pointa that reach the waist.
front and back, md then an- tabs on the shoul?
ders. This is mad?? entirely of artisti?? guipur?-,
edged all an.und with ?? very narrow knlfo-pleate?)
rutti, of the material. Th?? wit is a sash of nwuva
mouaeellne d?? aole.
For a light "robe <!?? carriage" suitable for dark
days In summer, there la no prettier pattern than
the following: Fust a guimpe ?>f tucked gray
mousseline de sole, with yellow Valenciennee Inser?
tion and si.'eves made In tha same way, with a
puff at the top of the mouaaetln? de soi??, ovar
which la a cap of the alternate tucka and Insertion
edged with lace. Over tins guimpe the bk>ua_
waist of gray mohair la pul on over tn?? head, with?
out any other opening, the n>-?-k being decollete,
cut In a deep point front and back and drawn to?
gether on the SBOuldera to a point by a carbuehon
A ?VHITK MISI.IM COSTCME WITH WHITE
LACK ON SKIRT AND Bodice
of ?-ut steel to form the armholaa. The blouse is
confined sl the waist by a belt of white patent
leather, with a buckle ?.f the same. The mohair
skirt is simple, but Ata tli?? hipa like a glove, below
Which ate tilt.?.? s? I u.il.-d tuck?, giving the .-ffect
of ? deep basque without an opening, the rest ?>f
tn?? skirt (Ming quite plain.
Nothing could be prettier or mor?? iiei'oming than
the corset an.l trimmed skut made <?f tha same
material An eXQUiaile costume lUr Ibis,? lutter- I
day combinations can be designated by no other
Nrm? designed to be worn with.a wedding dress
I? of win:?? seiin und Valenclennea The cornel >??
beautifully finished, and bas nu other trlmmiin
than an edging ot Valenclennea, held la place by a
narrow baby blue ribbon, worn for the sako ?_
luck, the "id Baying being that, "Something old
ami ???tu? ihn ?: new, som? thin? borrowed and some?
thing blue," mu-i be worn bj a bride on her wed?
ding day, Th.? akin la plain except for the flounce,
which Is composed of valenciennes insertion, with
strl'is of satin between. The full godets nt the
ha.-k are held in place by a ruche of Valenciennes
lace. Still another ?-?juaUy pretty combination haa
a corset and skirt of Dresden taffetas, a white
ground, on which ar?? bouquets of tiny flowers, the
trimming being of duch.aao laca
??IXTS OX BEAUTY.
HOW ONE WOMAN CLEARED HER PACE ?Of
BIX>TCHE8-VIRTUK8 OP HOT WATER.
The true woman longs to be beautiful, and Who
can blame her? It is part of a woman's duty to
herself and to mankind to make her face and her
figure as attractive and lovely as possible; and
whin a weii-trled and satisfactory recipe Is found,
It seems only fair to other women to pass the good
news along. I want to tell my women readers how
a fri-nd of mine regained a smooth and beautiful
complexion from a perfect waste of roughness, tha
chin especial'}? showing pimples ar.d unsightly red
blotches.
Shr had naturally the clear, white skin that goea
with light-brown hair and gray ey?>s. After
awhile the complexion became cloudy und the skin
hard; small pimples appeared on the chin, seeming
to lie deep down under the surface. At first she
did nothing for the trouble, thinking It was only a
temporary Indisposition that would soon pass away.
Rut It grew steadily worse, and irom having a
smooth, fine complexion, her face became a "sight,'
and she grew extremely sensitive about it.
At night she bathed her face in a bow', of wsrm
water, m which a heaping tiaspoonf'il of po wile red
borax had been dlssolv-d. Bhe need a soft wash?
cloth of old linen, and a pur,?, aaaeentod cocoa ? ut
oil soap. She did not scrub the ?jago, sensitive ?kin,
but rubbed It c-.refully and then poured out the
warm water ami turned on hot -as hot as she could
bear li. Sin? thr?w the wat? r up on Ih?? face, using
no cloth, simply hot wat? r softened with powdered
borax, to which sh?? added ten drops of ?pirite of
camphor. After this she dried h? r face by burying
it In a soft damask towel, not rubbing it at slE
Then -h?? took a pot ?,f perfectly pur?? .??!?l <r? am?
mali?? ii|i with ros. water, and rubbed it thoroughly
into her cheeks ami forehead, reserving the ?-hin
for the best an?l longest rubbing. The liti ?? hard
bumps under the skin seemed al first i.? with?i*nd
all coaxing and softening, but sh? kept this treat?
ment up religiously for tw?? mmiths before there
was .my appreciable result. To this nlsht treat
tneiit sh?? added a cold bath iti the morning. She
experimented with this latt.r [?art of ihe tr? itm?nt
until she was sure the cold witter was adapted 10
her syst.m. then, no matter how cold thi weatlMff
or Mi?? water, that arctic bath was never omitted.
A month of this had a wonderful effect Mor fa?-o
gesl it? former clear, ?m<i?'h appear
? roiighne-?? on tl ? chin ?.??.?? to grow
????,.a to m;
?.????, and th
softer.
Her plan of diet Was rigidi) ailh.Te?l to, and thla
was what she lived ?hi each day On ?.ivlng the
????id morning bath sh?? drank a ?.'lass of hot milk.
Then for breakfast sha ate, first, an ?ir.mge. %
small bowl of eith.-r cercatine, breakfast food,
shredd? ?1 oats or crack?.? wheat, w?ll ?-overed with
rich ?*r?-am. A small slice of beef, cooked rare,
graham bread and milk tossi completed th. meal.
?Occasionally she at?? a soft-boiled egg Bvery other
morning she had a mutton chop, so sh? viould not
tire of the beef. For luncheon she at?? fruit, a
salad, graham br ad. unealted butter, cup custard,
a.al .Irai.k a glass of milk. R ?UlllOU I.f, mutton or
Beh, vegetables, stewed fruit, m pudding or i.n le?
formed her rm-nti for dinner. She drank neither
? ?offee nor tea, but took a cup of hot chocolate Juat
befor?? she got into bed wh. ? Bhe fell that she
wanted it Sh?? ?,),,?? long, brisk walk- every day.
no matter the weather, a ring ? BOfl tissue veil if
the wind was cold and cutting. If Ii rained ?he
wore waterproof boots and ? mackintosh, and,
with s man's large umbrella, mind???! tbe moisture
no mor?? than if It had been sunshine. If It ?now?d
or sleeted It mad?- no difference with her; that
?dally airing was going to be taken.
She sleeps In a room without a tir??, snd find? that
her sleep Is soun?! and refreshing. In 'he summer
she keeps every window up In her room. At nlgftt
she take? a warm s'?ong?? bath jti*t Infor?? she ????
to bed
A year from the tlm?* she began to t.eal herself
sh?? was prettier than she ha?l ever be? ? In her life,
an?l h-r complexion was simply be-iutlful. Her
eyes were clear and bright, and ther?? w.?.- a ?renerai
air of elasticity and vigor about her that she had
never known before.
This Is a real case, and If one -ho ild see -he
young girl's face it would be difficult ? ? Imagina
that a pimple or blotch of my kind hid e? r marred
Its rosele.if tint and fineness.
VEQETABLE? AS MEDICINE.
"The Home Doctor" says that few people know
the medicinal value of vegetables. Asparagus, for
instance, forms part of the cure for rhcumat!?* pa?
tients at such health resorts as Atx-les-Ralns.
Sorrel Is? cooling to the mind as wll as the blood,
and forms the staple of that "soup ???x herbes"
whi h a Kr? mt* woman will order for herself afters
long ami tiring Journey. Carrots, as th??. contain
a quantity of sugar, ar?? fattening, and are avoided
by som?? people sa Indigestible. I? Is the yellow ?or?
of the carrot, however, that is indigestible, for the
outer r?-?l laver is tend?** enough In many part?
of Prance th?? peasants have recours? to an In
fusion o! carrots ,*^ a s[.ine for jaundice.
The large sweet onion Is rub In those alkalln?
elements which counteract the poison of rheumaU?*
gOUt. If Slowly Stewed In w?.tk broth and eaten
with s little cayenne pepper, it is said ?o he an ad?
mirable article of diet for people of studious and
s. .?. ntary habits.
The stalks of cauliflower have a similar value,
onlv too often thev are so ill-'ooil.-d and unpalatahl?
that they are not Inviting. Rut when w.ll cookei*
and serve?1 with proper dressing, there |? nothlns
more enticing. Lettuce has ? slight nar?*otlc action,
and for soothing the nerv? s th t<? is no -talk which
grows that equals celery.
HOT WATI'R
Hot water has far mor.? nndilnal virtues thar
many b?*ll?-ve or know. Rccii's.? Ir ;- ?? ? . ? -l'y pro
CUred, th??us.iri?ls think It v.ibiel.?.??. Ihe use? ot
hot water are many. For example, there Is noth?
ing thai so p omptly cuts short roageattoa of th?
lungs, ? m t .'-oat or rheumatism a* hot watei
when applied promptly and thoroughly lleadachi
?irnos? ? I ways yield? to the simultaneous applica?
tion of hot Water io the f? ? I and back of the neck
A towel to!.led several times and dipped In h?v
waier and wrung out. and then applied around th?
neck of a child that han the croup, will sometimei
bring relief in ten minutes II it water taken fr-el>
half an hour befor?? bedtime is helpful In the ca?<
of constipation, while it h..s a mosi ?oothlng effeci
Upon th?? stomach and bowels. A Rissa 0f hot watei
taken pist after rising, before breakfast, has cure?
thousands of Indigestion, and no ?Im pi? r? medy ll
more widely recommended by ph) il lane to dynep.
ii-s. Very hot water will slop dangerous hlee<llng
THE ? Rill l NE PATTER'S.
A TI?ITE-PAPSR PATTERN ?? !>? >X-rLEAT_K
waist. N<> ;.?*. roR ???iron
AM? If CENTI
i
7.0.?,? p?? PLEATED waist kor a TOCE? orni?
The natty waist here shown Is ,? decided innova?
tion from the regulation shirt waist, and will prove
universally becoming to growing girls; the Tw*g.
pleats giving necssary fains SS to the undeveloped
figures, and the belt a trim adjus-ment at the w.ilet
|| .- unllned, being simply !:t:.l bv si; ?! 1er, under?
arm s-ams and smooth ur.iler-arni gores that render
the adjustment ni":.? perfi t i'leats are laid on
both front and back as Indn-ate?!, ?.ml tin? closing li
effected Invisibly at the iront ben??.?ih the centre
boa pleat hy buttons and buttonholes worked in o
fly. At ?he neck Is the ,-n ?l.t-.lon lln-ii cottar arid
a rea: stock ?if Indlgo-blne surah. The sleeves Sia
gathend at the top an?! at the wrists, where they
me finished with cuff bands, to which linen cufu
in?? adjusted. Kngllsh tweed, cheviot, drap G?*!"
an?! light woollens In plaids, checks ind stripes ar?
su.i.?. Ie f'?r m ikinc wh.-n the waist 1? Intended fat
school weir, travelling, yachting or cycling. Ser?
viceable ani pr?t??? waists can b?? male after the
?ealgn In ?bks and wish fabric? a? Illustratati th?
material is figurad Itnil?
To mak?? tnls waist for a miss In the medium sire
wll' reunir? thr???? an?! one-fourth wril? of forty
four-Inch material. The pattern. No 7.(41, Is cut
In sizes for mlssn of twelve, fourteen .md ?i?t?*er
J.IIS.
! OOOrOX KNTITI.in?! TO ?ORE PATTERN.
any HSR or no. MM
Cut HI? <?'''?. A" ln *"'' "r ??G?' ?id ? I Ue??. ?nd
| mall II to TIR?: ?'??.'-'?? RKI'AKTMKXT
Or" THK TIUIUNK
No. T.0&S.
T?-?rs.
Irida?.? 10 .?nt? to pay m.-il'ln? and handling
expei??? tot ta ? pattrrn ?? ,:.?.??.!