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A BEEFSTEAK DINNER AT "THE MORGUE.
THESE BEEFSTEAK DINNERS. WHAT THKY AHI AND H? 'W THE1 AUK MANAGED. N?>T NK'KSSAIM V ??????? AFFAIRS WON ?>-:?? ? ?. ways or ixjokino a.m. PRIMITIVE WATS OF BEI'VINO. Public attention has been drawn of late in a new degree toss Institution <>f th?? city which is not itself new The reports lli.it hSVi been pub? Ushed sine? election of the performsncea ..f cer? tain of the men who were then chow ? to control the ensuing destinies of lb?? expanded city have caui---d wonder to all and curiosity to some The performances referred to ar?? thus?? win? h hav. taken piar?? ?t various ''beefsteak dinners," where the Mayor-fleet, th?? Register eie, ? and others ar?? credited with performances which are im full ..f promise for th?? stockyards of Chi? cago a-s for the City Hal! of Ncw-Yoik. Even Tammany men, who are simp!?? souls when 11 comes to questions of believing things to tin? gi??!*)' of their own leaders, have shaken their heads a litri?- over th?? olliclal assertions that a man could eat and bru? eat??!! sev?-n and a ?|iiar ter pounds of beefsteak at a meal. Other p?-r sons have bee MM BO far interested as to hint that th??? should like to ki.ow what a beefsteak dinner la, anyway. It may b??. too. that som?? have l>cen led into th?? error of supposing that the beefsteak dinner is distinctly a Tammany lnstltuti<m. It shall be Ihe effort uf thes.? lew simple Urns to resolve doubt:? and to remove misapprehensions. Aa to the quantities of beefsteak ?alen, it may be aaid at once thai am mi- tin? unti Tamilian) elements ?>f the city the Ktorb-s ate disbelieved I It may he that the pound? mentioned In them . bave something of th?- same relation to pounds I avoirdupois that pounds sterilii-; have to pounds troy. Hut the probabl'lty is thai the boys lied But Tammany Is an unpleasant subject, and t?tere Is no reason why It should monopolise attention when th<- next local election Is four yeara off The beefsteak dinner Itself is a plesssntet one And It la nut an exclusiv? ly Tamir.any affair at all. There was a Kcpublican one only a few nights ago. And It In not even exclusively or necessarily political. There have beet, many ex? cellent and enjoyable beefsteak dinner* win-re public weal and misrule were not mentioned or thought of at all The favorite pia**?* for beefsteak dinners In New-York Is the Morgue, in West Klfty-elghili? st It le a big room, rather plain and bare, with Its sides made largely of glass, adjoining a liquor shop. It has been for yeara the meeting place of the HeefHteak, Club, an organization to have no limit of membership, no regulation, no purpose and no law. beyond a tendency to come to a focus at Intervals and ral beefsteak The focus Is the Morgue, with Its ?heetiron etOTS ut on? , nd and Its row of soap boxes around thre?? sld?-s The IJeefsteak Club Includes men ?>f many callings, but a th? atri? al rlemeni predominates in it jess?? u/Mhuaa Um w.ll kn.wn musical dir?, tor. and MSB I'r.-.n.in. tl.?? ? ? 11.? II \ w.ll known stag1? manager, ar?? among th?? most potimi of tt? m rvtng spirita Th. r?? uri? ??. recognlz<pd permanenl "ih eys, i-ut Mas Preeman la often put m ih?- .hair that is to s.u. on the tu1 Idi?? soap boa of lb? cres? cent and there he tries t.. keep (he others in som?? sort ?.f order. Bui the discipline ?* rather ' ?? lax than I! usual!, bl when Mt i-'r? eman Is conducting a comic opera rehearsal Nobody carea much for rigid discipline bul some wan; a I? free of tranqulllltj that will allow them t ? ral steak, and it has been found that this end is better served by letting Max Freeman try' to keep ih?? resi .? order than by compelling the ! real t?> try to ke?'p Max freeman In order. n is believed by many thai s beefsteak dinner | would be Irretrievabl) ruined by th?? Introduction Of such Conveniences as tables, chairs, knives ? and forks. It Is not known whether it a uid ..t ; n?.t. because it has sever been tried, al least al the If? rgue, What Its imitators mai do or try to do, the Morgue ? ar?-s not. So there ??? no table at Ihe Morgue, and th?-r<? ar?? no chairs. Around three Bides "f tin r?.om Is a row of soap boxea, to whk h reference has been mad?? before. Bach emst has ,t bos Is sit an. This is regard? ed as a considerante concession, it wonM be more Informal to stand up. Kar h I WO guests hav?? another soap ??? between them This Is to put things ?t?. The most important thing that Is put ?m It i" .1 mug of al?? Another thing that Is important Is 11 good-utsed towel. Some cnthusl ?at? maintain, with S show of logic, that when >ou sn going ?? ?'at beefsteak with your fingers a napkin or anything to represent it is out of harmony. Bui this opinion is not general, and a Useful compromise is made on the towel. Thus th?? preliminaries of the sei vice are ar? rangili. The cooking is the next Important .|u?-s tlon. Perhaps it should have 1????? the llrst. When you are going to have a beefsteak dinner you must llrst gel your beef. It musi be care? fully selected, for It Is no tru?? beefsteak dinner unless th?? result Is at least four times as goo?l as anything that can I?? ha?! at any hotel or r?*s taurant In New-Vo k. The beef being selected by somi-hody who knows how to do It. it must be hung for a HUlTlcient time to Insure perf?-ct tenderness Kor conking it must be cut In Buces about two inches thi<-k. certainly not less. It Is not of much use to try to have a beef? steak dinner unless your stove was made for the purpose, it should be of ahceUron, and large eiM-Ugh to take In a large broiler through Its front d?>or. The fire must bs made of hickory w.??.?l This la as Important as any other par? of th?? procaSB, The lire Is allowed to bum Itself ?down to a bed of glowing coals. In the m? an time th? broiler Is mad?? ready with Its first load. ? As many of the steaks as It will hold are laid , upon It an?! a misture Of salt and sugar Is Sprinkled over them to *i depth of from an eighth .' t> ? ipiarter nf an inch In th<* preparation and ! us,? of this mixture lies .01.? ..f the se.rets ?if the 'skilful ...ok ..f 1.fsleak ? ?ver this black pep? per is Bprinkled t::: th- white covering of Ihe I st.-ak Is hidden. Then it is broiled. Wl.ti the ateaks ;?:?? ?Hiked Just to th.? pmpcr turn they ar?? t.iken quick!) from tb?? lire and ? ?Iri.pp.??! Into ;? large pan of melted butter. The cook's assistant? have them In hand now, while the cook himself g?? ?i once t.. w..rk at broil? n ? ih? nexl batch. The steaks ar? tak.'ii out of ih.? 1 u it.-d butter an.l cui Into slices of some? thing leas than ihe thickness of s Ungar. Kadi slice Is laid on s little slice of bread. These are dlsp ? ? ..? a platter and passed around. Bach gaesl takes a alice of bread, with Its slice of ?teak . n it, In ins lingers. Al the same tlm?? eel? ???\ la passed, and th? mugs are Sited up with .al?? The dinner la starte 1. This eating of beefsteak With the lingers is not such a l.rrlbl. thing as it sounds. It must be remembered thai each bit of steak lies comfort? ai.i> on Its slice >f bread, and the bread la ail thai has to b? touched. The meat, having been properly bred, raised, killed, dressed, hung, ......k.?.1 and senred, does not have to bs reni nnd torn asunder, it Is Just as easy to bite Uu-oajgh the slices ol bread ami meal together as if the I.i.ad nad nothing but butler on It If your st?ak comes <>ii( any tougher than butter, you may set your beefsteak dinner down as a failure and hop? to do liett?-?' next time. The cooking goes Steadily ? ? As soon as a t.at.h of steaks is rasdl II Is passed around and the cook begins on another. Ily-and-by coin?? about a platter heaped with th.? boass that have been lattes fron th?? ?-teaks before the> were siicd. Those who remember that "the nearer the bone the sweeter th?? moat" Ink?? these and gnaw them. Those who are not so full of wise i saws 1.1 Ile m pas??. The cook goes on conking as long as be thinks that snybody ?-un lie In? duced t? eat steaks. After that be broils a few j lamb chops, which are served for <less.it. The dinner ends with these, unless there Is still some al?? left which somebody wants to Unisti up. After the dinn?*r th?? guests may entertain one another, If they feel like entertaining, or there may be speaking. If anybody is still able to speak. The safest way, If entertainment la de? sired, Is to hire performers for It who do not Join in the dinner. PARISIAN COOKING. AN ERA OK GASTRONOMIC RENA.LSSANCB BEGUN HY THE Dl'KES OF ROHAN AND DOrJDEAUVILLE. SIMI'f.K'lTY INSISTKO CI'iiN ?? THK JOCKEI CLI'U ANO THKCKKi'l.K Dg L'IN ION'-JOSEPH, FIlKOKHI?'. THK (?!:!?' uF rilK.siOKNT I'Al'KK AM) THK CHKKS OK THK I.KAD IN? KKSTAl KANTS UKLiOMK THK ??????????? ANO I'hvCI.AIM ?'I.ASSl?'AL 1????? IN \HK ART OF OtHUtQ. Taris. November IS. The year 1K?17 will be memorable in th?? annals of French cookery, for it marks the entry' into what may be called its period of renaissant*??. Just as the revival of th?? classical purity in painting, sculpture, literature and architecture was effected in the sixteenth ? "titury under the influ'nee of the Medili, fo is the art of cooking accomplishing at the close Of the nineteenth century a similar regeneration under the Inspi? rati in and patronage of such master gourmets as the Duc de Rohan, the Duc de Doudeauville, the Mar?iuls de Jnueourt, M. l-.ls?-hofish?'lm and a select coterie of their dim ipt?**?, whose kitchens to-day are acknowh-dged t?? 1??? the standard of th?? highest mode-? development ?f the gastro? nomic art. Th?? new departure already Imparted to French COOhlng cannot fail bef.ire long to tnak?? Itself felt in New-York, and will eventu? ally penetrate tn every corner of Christendom where well-cook?*d an?l well-nerved dinners are appreciated. Th?? farrea? hing Importance of this 111(11 ?llWl may he mad.? clearer by a brief ref? rence to Preach culinary history Records preserved In the French National Library, some of which ar?? embodied la the works <>f Grimod de la Rejmi?re, Br?llat-Bavnrtn, ??????. Theo?lore Child and Chartes Monoeld conclusively show that of all th?? cookery ever achieved that which prevailed during the Keg?>ncy of the I>uc d'Ort?ail ?ami? th?? nearest to absolute p.-rfeo lion, ? contemporary <>f th?? "petits sonner?*' of the el^ht'-enth ?-ontury. Grimm, the author of tbe ftunons "Correspondance Litt?raire," has ex preened bla I.?lief that the sumptuousness <>f the Roman tabi??.? ??f the days of Lucullus was not to be compartii with the refinement resulting In that classical ?implicit] which charact? rized the eootdng of the Iteg.ticy. The culinary efforts of the tiri<t (?uartcr of th?? trtgbtoentb century joaKrit Proprietor and chef at the K?\?taurant Joseph, the Hue Marivaux. ', ? re directed toward developing the natural pre dominatlng davor of each clement and prevent? ing its Otst?? from being vitiated or neutralized by a profusion of discordant condiments and SfBonlngB It Ml under the Regency that tbe science <>f roasting reached Its ar*og?t?"the j.iln: iibmltted t<? the heat of an intense but ,????? fire, which coagulated the surface, thereby r.-t lining the Jui???? during a ????ntinunnce <?f the roasting pro?,-ss b?'f??re a more moderate fire." It mi ?luring the Kegency that Intelligent re? se.?..- h. Infinite care, labor and costly sacrili?? ??volved from primary banes sauces never since rivalled In purity and finen???? of taste. It wan the time when grands a.-lgneura like the Marqula de HiVhamel, the Pue ?le Soublsc. the Duc de ltlchclicu. Mar?chal Villeroy. 1'rinc" de Conde ?ind th?? Hue de Montmorency Immortalised Umilia? ISC? by combining those fundamental sauces and dish??? whoa,? names remain to-day honsehoM words throughout Europe and Amer? ica. The nagent himself invented the famous "pain de foie gras a d'Orli-ans." the "mahon niiise." now familiar aa the mayonnaise, and also the "sauce a ?a r?gence," compounded by the Blow reduction and pulverization of tendee poultry. Th?? Heg?-ncy. whatever else may be said of It, certainly constituted the Augustan era of the gastronomic art. Under Ixiuta XV cookery remained stationary, with a alight tendency toward ojmplexlty. With Ixiuls XVI came a change toward profUMlon and Incongruity. During the First Empire there waa a ?light Improvement, which continued with the Restoration and until Louis Philippe. But with tbe Third Empire exotic tastes set in, whl?*J?