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PART III.?8 Pages.
FASHION SECTION. SUNDAY, MARCH 23. WOMAN'S REALM. VAME FASHION'S SPRING DECREES Rules Which Her Votaries Must Follow If They Would Win Her Favor?Her New Laws Take Effect on Easter Day, and as Interpreted by the Most Fashionable Firms in This City, and Here Set Forth With Many Illustrations, They Give Complete Instructions for Clothing the Human Form Divine, Both Male and Female, from Head to Heels. CORRECT SPRING AND SUMMER STYLES FOR 1902, IN WOMEN'S AND MEN'S STREET ATTIRE. ilty permiss "n of the John J. Mltch.ll Oo > FASHIONS INMEN'SWEAR STYLES DEPEND OX POPULAR FAVOR TO BE ADOPTED. 90GTJE OF TITE BHOBT DIXXER OOAT? TIIE KIXG EDWARD FBOCK OOAT? aUIEBICAX FABBICS POPULAB. IIAT will the styles be for ihe coming spring aad BUtn nar aeaaon? That la tbe ? Btiod whi' h is asked ?v tin.-s every day at ali th?- fashlonable tailnrlng <-s lallllBllllll ?<? In answer to lt the maker of men'a araar aUaif the iatest faah lon piatea ar.d tbe neweat S^^~ aamrtlra of fabrtca, but he gives no guarantee as to what will be thn popular Cttt or the favoriti- oolor or Patttera !n clr.th. Th" atytaa are made by the peo P** wi... mak? that B Th.-ir fashion Plate? ;.re tha reault of much labor and ? l-.se ? ? "h.ngs ln the Kngiisdi. French ?""<J '.em..in fashicn world* are examined, com P"t*nt rr.er t() \_,,-x Irle various pr<> Poaed Ktyl.-s anntial to them. and aft?-r much aaaavarattaa the models are dr.-ss-.l and from ***** the paatea ara kwada. La ihe work which *PPearn ?paillllal to th<- casual llliaill III not I lh otnitted. Th?-r^ in no gueaawork about materlal and no hapliazard methods ln **? matter ef clothea f.,r tlMM mod.-ls. Manu *cturen an<i imporiers ..f rlotaw* are called upon " aarr.pl*. of what they thlnk wlll be the "besf ""***" the hatter, haberdaaher and shoemaker ?*?d their most Btriklnjf eamplea. and from ****?? wh*ri they are all properly assembled, **? NatWaa are made. In order to make these Wlrttrtive the fjuihi,,,, piate figurea are supplled face* whl.h come dangeroualy near being ***r*lia of men well known in bualneaa, eclen ?^ and pont'.-al .-Irries. But all the trouble d ***" forethought of the fashl-.n maker can ??t make a atyls without the gnpgoval of the ^?tomer. and ln many int-tancea atylea which I "featured" in the advanced fa*hion piates * n-*"V?' made for sale. "T*ar'a the dlfferen. e i^twcen this country ?*d Europe," ,alc a rirtilnBlalla tallor. "There aak!!yl*' """ ihi,i !"w" ,!''1 "'"" wh" wtsn '? aa*,*Ja^?Wn ** W?r"" dr*'fi"'*'i follow the command ""? tallor without asking a queatlon. That ls re**?? way the Europeana clotnea often look so (jijpor. A tall m;in \\>:irn a short man's atyle and th>- little man weara a coat which looka badly on him, althnugh lt is a good tall man'a Btyle. if checka ar.- the rai<.- no nnf weara Btripea, an.l only a f.-w men have the ..-?? t.. wear a broadbrlm hat when nur r..w ona-s are conaidered fashlonable. That ls all .]lff(-r.-nt here. Men aee the faahion platea. and if th.-r?- ls nothing ln th.- aeaaon'a wear that suits them thf-y order what they fan<*y anil cra ate a Btyle of th.ir own. Of courae, if the ten dency la toward narrow trouaera th< y will not fly in th<- faoe of faahion by orderlng thf other extrerne, and when coata ar.- belng cut extreme |y l.iiiK they do not have th.-ir new garmenta made very short; but they us.- the faahion plat.. aa a baaiB only, and make th.ir own styles fra>rn it." There will be leaa reason to deviate this s.-a pon from th" atylea aa preaented by the faah? ion makera than uaual, becauae th.-y are moder ate in all reapecta, and there is nothing .xtr.-in. about thern. "The Sartorial Ari Journ.il" in Its article On the sprinK and sumnu-r faahiona says: li, .-very fashlonably eorrect garment of the in. omint* aeaaon th.-r*- wlll be one change from the expreaadon of the aame garmeni laal fall and wlnter that will at once unmiatakabiy ?-.\ preaa ita newneaa to the Bartorlally well In? formed. This is a e-eneral Ughtness of effect. This feature will be madf oonspicuoua in both overcoata and under.-oats by a decreaaed width and heigbt <>f snoulder, and by a light.-r roll, the notcb -.vidths of whleh will l..- leaa than f"r many y:-ars; in waistcoats, by a narrower roll, with a amaller notch, whether double or aingle breaated, and ln the former by a leaa apread ..f the button roll; and ln trousers by moreahapely l.-a?K Karh of these style changea will !??? sllght, but dlstinct. In <-oata the shoulders wlll not aver age more than cne-quarter of an ineh narmw.-r than they have been; the shoulder paddmg will l.a- redii'-'-d only about one-quarter, and the notrh widths will be only from one-eighth to one-quarter inch less; ln walatcoata the roll reductlon wlll eorrespond with that in coata, and the spread in double breasted waistcoats of tbe button rolls wll! not be redueed more than one-half lnch; in trousers the knee width wlll be one-half inch leaa, and the bottom width one-half inch more. There ls no change ln men's evenlng dress, ex cept that for spring and summer the white walstcoat la conaidered necessary. The single br<-asted white walstcoat wlll also be worraawith the dinner coat. "There haa been too much Tuxedo, or dinner coat." said a Fifth-ave. tailor. "to auit some men of good taste. First, men wore these coats to the tha-atre, then by alow stages they got to wearlng them to places where evenlng dress was posltively essential. In order that there may be r,o further abuse of this kind. many of my cus toiin-rs are havlng dinner coats made with but tona and with three pockets on the outside. Theae garments are really amoking jackets. and could not be worn where there are women preaent. If thia coat can bo made Bufflciently popular to replace the preaent ahapely dinner coat the fastidloua men will have no further complaint to make, for men will then be com pelled to wear the regulation evenlng <".-it at evenlng functions." Despite the efforts to make the ahort coat unpopular, it will probably be worn as much this year as it waa laat. Day dresa wlll be whal it was ln the fall and winter. The double breaated froek will be a trili.- shorter than ii was last aeaaon, and this well established garment will bav? a powerful rival in the singl.- breaated coat, whlch has been called the Klng Edward. In conaequence <>f King Edward'a partiality for this coat, it will certainly be worn more than it was laat year, but lt will take a long time to make it as well kn iwn as th>- froek, whicb waa originaily knowa us th< Prince Albert. Th.- singl.- breaated coat will be nnished m all reapecta like the double breaated garment, but lighter in Btyle. Ii will cloae with four buttona, <-x.-.-pt for short, Btout men, whose coata willcloae with three buttona, For general buslneaa the sack aull will be worn more than the froek coat, although the cutaway will be worri, especiallj by men who prefer .lark, plain material t.> the fancy pat terns All s.nks w ili ha ve moderately wide shoul dera, built up b, medium aquareneas, and wlll be Blightly Bbaped to# the form. ln length they will be flve Inchea leaa than one-half the w?-ar .r's h.-ight it single breaated, and one inch ? if double breaated. Outalde pocketa will be worn "ti nearly all coats. The extremely snori coal which s me men have worn for aev eral seaaona may be ordered agaln hy the v.-ry young men, bul theae coata have becorae known as "college Jacketa," and will probably not h. popular with other young men. The four but? ton cutaway will hav.- double Btitched edges. Th- Btraigbt front s;.ck wlll not have the mili Utry effe< t that if bad last year. but it will probably be wom qulte as much as it was then Inaamuch as this coat looks b^st when it is buttoti^d. it becomes an uncomfortable gar? ment in the summer if it is made double breusted. and on that account it will not be worn much in thal way. A double breasted sack, with the fronts .venly spaced for four buttonholes. and closlng with only two but tons, has many admirers. The cutaway front and the light roll give it a long effect. which ls heightened by flaps on the pocketa. An afternoon riding costume is deseribed as follows by the Mitcheil Company: A single breasted froek, slightly cut away, with blunted bottom corners, and a moderately full skirt. made from worsted cheviot or any oth'-r coating used for day dress; a double breasted or a single breasted walstcoat ln regu lar style. made from a fancy maferlal; moder? ately pear shaped breeches. closlng closa* to the knee, well ln front, to show tnree buttons above plgskin leggins, or riding trousers; a derby hat; a mgii banded turndown collar; a narrow four in-hand acarf; tan colored glovea, and laced ahoea. This is for afternoon wear. The morning, or muftl, coatuma will conaial of a alnarle breaated cutaway aack made from any faahlonable suit Ing, tbe sami' a.s for general buaineaa wear, ea cept timt breaat pocketa cloaed with a hutton wlll li- patched ..n, an.l that the hip pocketa wlll be on a allghtly curved alant; a doubie breaated coat, without a collar, wnh w.-n aloped away fronta below the cloedng, made from a fancy wool mati-rial; breechea, the same us for tiie afternoon; a golflng cap. a stock, tan colored glovea, leather leggina and laced ahoea. Btnped Oannela and worateda wlll be worn for golflng, and althougb there wlll ho aome knlck erbocker coatumea, the Oannel, turned up trou Bera wlll probably be worn more generaUy. The blouse wi'i have two pleata in front and two In th-- bai k, falling over a buckle in lt. below which ar.- outaide pocketa, cloaed with a button. Th>- materiala for aulta are more varled this aeaaon i ha ti they have ever been before, ami the domestic gooda shown hy faahlonable tailora compare favorably with any from acroaa th. water Last aeaaon'a modesl atrlpea and little che.ks will not be enttrely out of piace this year, but the loud patterna which were in favor to s'uiio ixtHiu will probably not be s.en this year. The tendency is to plain mixtures in browna, draba and ollve. The iiatterns ar<- Inconaptcuoua, and the man with a tu-w spring suit this year wlll look neat rath.-r than loud. Strlped tious. rs will he worn with day ilitaa. hut there will he many checka also. There is much variety in walatcoal inaterlala, and there are washalde poods on the market ranging from white to black. In these goods the Ameri? can manufacturers have also come to the front. and in order to make a sale the tailor ls not compelled to show an English or French trade mark. In its business forecast "The Sartorial Art Journal" says on that polnt; There are now but very few htgh ela*s tailors, even ln our larger. cltles, who do not show domestic goods to thelr CUatomera M American gooda, and recomniend them kighly, and the number of well dressed men who buy them for business and for half dress sults ls rapidly lncreaslng. Those tailora who stlll touch American fabrles with fear or do not handle them are steadlly decreaslng ln number, and are seldom consplcuous in the foremost rank of the trade. The Scotch plaid aocks which the haberdash era carried over last year have been sent to the Far West and down South. Plaln socka, drab, brown and black. wlll be worn largely, but there wlll also be a good demand for embroid? ered and vertlcal striped hosiery. Neckwear will dlffer from last season's ln Its general tone. which wlll be more aubdued. with a leanlng tow? ard black and whlta mixtures, althougb. coro natlon r.-d may flnd many patrana The nar? row four in hand tlea ln fancy patterna and stripea wlll be worn, and haberdaahera are alao ahowini inea of narrow string ti>s with broad ends. Large pufl tlea made of light silk will be worn for day dress. with aroall acarf plna ..f pearl or unburniabed gold The effort to Introduce the burge ararfpln waa nol rac c.-ssr'u! lasl year, ar.d th>- blg borsa>shoea and Bunburata wlll not be aeen thia year, eacept at tha racetracks, where they have alwaya DOl iil.ir. Th,- outing shlrt will not be as high rolored as it was last year, and white wlll be worn more than ever before. The pleated front sh:rt. which became popular last s.-a.-on. will be w>?rn this year more extensively than ever The shirt makera ar<- ahowing large linea of white ma terlal with small figures, an.l the garment a made of theae fabrics, with pleated fronta anda of medium slae, will probably be k.1 s.-lhng articlea The oiiars for these shlrta will be whiti There are alao many - Btriped patterna among the lateal shirtinga, but they .ue principally blue. gray and black, with only .1 lighl aprlnkling of high colors. S i colored percalea in pink. lighl blue and ttrab, with perfectly plain rrot.ts. are among th.- aea son'a noveltles, and fancy silk shlrta with llnen wriatbanda, ranglng in price from 9750 to .Sll. are also shown by flrsl .-l.iss haberdaahera. The man who wishea t>> dresa well may aaake his own styles in shlrta, aeckwear, hoaieri clothing, bul he has little to say in the matter of hats Th-se ar.- laid before him, and unlesa he wishea apeclal blocka made for himself he must abide by the judgmeM of his hatter. This the silk hat will be aligbtly hiarh.-r in the crown than th.- fall and winter ahape, the Bhape wtii be a medium bell an.l the brim will i?- a trilb- more tlat than it baa been f.,r matn aona The derby hat has a hi^h eroara, with a medium taper, narrow teian and medium ?ridth band without a buckle. Th>- depth of crown will vary fr tn r>'4 to b* inches. th.- .">' ln. h depth being the moal Bhapely. Bofi hats <.f the Alpine ahape, in aeveral shades ..f drab, will have wlde brima, well rolled. The best hats have no binding on the brim. which is turned aad Btltched. ? As t.. straw hats." said a leading hatter "when hol weather comea anythlng in the wa> of straw hats goea Bul wa always bave a laader. The low crown and medium broad brim hat made of Senator braid wlll be the leader I this seasoti. The heavy. rough straw, which | waa popular last year. wlll be worn again, al- i though we will show the plalner styles tirst." For several s, asons the Panama straw hat has heen ln good demand, and although cheap Imitationa have been placed on the market, these do DOl crOWd OUl the real artlcle. and f.-w peo? ple can ba- de. elved hy the "sham straw." Dun lap has a large line <>f the genulne goods. rang? lng ln price from "plS to j'tin, and a man who knows the New-Tork hat trade well predicts i that more Panama hats will be sold next season at prices ranglng from 93S to 960 than of any other quallty. The hats of this class received from Manila by Knox last season as a trial lot were sold quickly. and the Philippine Islands ? will contrlbute their share again this year tow? ard New-Tork'a hat sunply. The styles in men's shoes have not changed I materialiv slnce last season. The tendency is ! to heavy solcs and to shapes conducive to eaaa fort. The narrow tOB will not he worn. Low : cut shoes in tan and patent leather will be pop? ular but fashionable shoemaka-rs have received i _:_-??.1 ,i ..iiuuua-d on tourtk pa>a??.> * MODES FOR WOMEN. FASHIONS FOR 1908 ARE PRET T1ER THAN EVER BEFORE. THE MODISH WOMAVS WARDROBE AXD WHAT IT WII.L mXTAIX-A FEW RF.VIYALS OF BYr.OXE DAYS. ARDLY ever before has ther* th.- varlery that ls tha iHyaeta of tha fashions forisat. This statement is equa'.ly truo ?^j-^ of fabrics and modes. for there has never been a time when ao burge a cholc* in hoth was pos wheth.r ln tallored ar . k'liwns. First ln the list of favoritea in the aWaaak w.m.an's ward That ls tha> prtmary fact. hut its dlverst -^-^"^gS^_ Haa are numerous. for loulslne, satin. m.'lr?. taffeta. Liberty foulaid and peau de solo are, one and all. desirabla. Printed facow????* an.l warp printed damasses are ln tba fr.ii' .... hut, as they are extremelji erx ... arlll r...t hav~ .,ng of tbe other vari-tlt-s aaaa Th.- i-ha:n,'..on eff, cts that have been out of favor for mttweral yaan are aaaa aaaaaa in some of th,- mo-t fetchlnaj of tho taapotted | Anoth.-r r. vival ls ai the tiny ""pin stripe" deslgn Women wr i are old enough to adtnit it say th it "'pin strip- rn by them tataaty-aYva - ariU be especlally llked by younsr guis and debutantes. as they ara charmtngly .!ainty. They are usually of pink. blue or graea aad whtae, aiihough a few examples hava been seen in black and white. Poaagaa la agata ln demand. and the leading houaes have .-inhroidered banda for trimming. that lntroduce a hishly effective t'">uch of color. The etamines. canvase*. vetlings and simllar open weaves are quite the most popular thinga in woollen goods. and are to be employed for both tallored and dr.-ssy gowns. For evening wear, chiffons and a velllng so thin as to be almoat a wool ??mull" are to be much used. and are capablei of producing exquislte effects with the laces and emhroideries now in vogue. Printed chiffons are a novelty ln thia ilne. and some of the daintiest of Newport gowns are mada of them. The full box pleated skirt has returned to favear ln these thin materiais. and the pleata are often tcimmeii with vertlcal rows of narrow silk or vel vet rtbfeaa and medallions of lace. With auch a skirt. a favorite ai aleava is made by box naaallng the mat.-nal to the elbow, thence ailowlng it to fali loeaaly and iiallaed to the wrlst la a deep ruffle, or gathered ln a puff into a cuff. The collaxleaa neck *a eatabllahed as a aummar