New-York tribune. [volume], March 23, 1902, Image 27

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
PART III.?8 Pages.
FASHION SECTION.
SUNDAY, MARCH 23.
WOMAN'S REALM.
VAME FASHION'S SPRING DECREES
Rules Which Her Votaries Must Follow If They Would Win Her Favor?Her New Laws Take Effect on Easter Day, and as Interpreted
by the Most Fashionable Firms in This City, and Here Set Forth With Many Illustrations, They Give Complete Instructions
for Clothing the Human Form Divine, Both Male and Female, from Head to Heels.
CORRECT SPRING AND SUMMER STYLES FOR 1902, IN WOMEN'S AND MEN'S STREET ATTIRE.
ilty permiss "n of the John J. Mltch.ll Oo >
FASHIONS INMEN'SWEAR
STYLES DEPEND OX POPULAR
FAVOR TO BE ADOPTED.
90GTJE OF TITE BHOBT DIXXER OOAT?
TIIE KIXG EDWARD FBOCK OOAT?
aUIEBICAX FABBICS POPULAB.
IIAT will the styles be for
ihe coming spring aad BUtn
nar aeaaon? That la tbe
? Btiod whi' h is asked
?v tin.-s every day at ali
th?- fashlonable tailnrlng <-s
lallllBllllll ?<? In answer
to lt the maker of men'a
araar aUaif the iatest faah
lon piatea ar.d tbe neweat
S^^~ aamrtlra of fabrtca, but he
gives no guarantee as to
what will be thn popular
Cttt or the favoriti- oolor or
Patttera !n clr.th. Th" atytaa are made by the peo
P** wi... mak? that B Th.-ir fashion
Plate? ;.re tha reault of much labor and ? l-.se
? ? "h.ngs ln the Kngiisdi. French
?""<J '.em..in fashicn world* are examined, com
P"t*nt rr.er t() \_,,-x Irle various pr<>
Poaed Ktyl.-s anntial to them. and aft?-r much
aaaavarattaa the models are dr.-ss-.l and from
***** the paatea ara kwada. La ihe work which
*PPearn ?paillllal to th<- casual llliaill III not
I lh otnitted. Th?-r^ in no gueaawork
about materlal and no hapliazard methods ln
**? matter ef clothea f.,r tlMM mod.-ls. Manu
*cturen an<i imporiers ..f rlotaw* are called upon
" aarr.pl*. of what they thlnk wlll be the "besf
""***" the hatter, haberdaaher and shoemaker
?*?d their most Btriklnjf eamplea. and from
****?? wh*ri they are all properly assembled,
**? NatWaa are made. In order to make these
Wlrttrtive the fjuihi,,,, piate figurea are supplled
face* whl.h come dangeroualy near being
***r*lia of men well known in bualneaa, eclen
?^ and pont'.-al .-Irries. But all the trouble
d ***" forethought of the fashl-.n maker can
??t make a atyls without the gnpgoval of the
^?tomer. and ln many int-tancea atylea which
I "featured" in the advanced fa*hion piates
* n-*"V?' made for sale.
"T*ar'a the dlfferen. e i^twcen this country
?*d Europe," ,alc a rirtilnBlalla tallor. "There
aak!!yl*' """ ihi,i !"w" ,!''1 "'"" wh" wtsn '?
aa*,*Ja^?Wn ** W?r"" dr*'fi"'*'i follow the command
""? tallor without asking a queatlon. That ls
re**?? way the Europeana clotnea often
look so (jijpor. A tall m;in \\>:irn a short man's
atyle and th>- little man weara a coat which
looka badly on him, althnugh lt is a good tall
man'a Btyle. if checka ar.- the rai<.- no nnf
weara Btripea, an.l only a f.-w men have the
..-?? t.. wear a broadbrlm hat when nur
r..w ona-s are conaidered fashlonable. That ls all
.]lff(-r.-nt here. Men aee the faahion platea. and
if th.-r?- ls nothing ln th.- aeaaon'a wear that
suits them thf-y order what they fan<*y anil cra
ate a Btyle of th.ir own. Of courae, if the ten
dency la toward narrow trouaera th< y will not
fly in th<- faoe of faahion by orderlng thf other
extrerne, and when coata ar.- belng cut extreme
|y l.iiiK they do not have th.-ir new garmenta
made very short; but they us.- the faahion plat..
aa a baaiB only, and make th.ir own styles
fra>rn it."
There will be leaa reason to deviate this s.-a
pon from th" atylea aa preaented by the faah?
ion makera than uaual, becauae th.-y are moder
ate in all reapecta, and there is nothing .xtr.-in.
about thern.
"The Sartorial Ari Journ.il" in Its article On
the sprinK and sumnu-r faahiona says:
li, .-very fashlonably eorrect garment of the
in. omint* aeaaon th.-r*- wlll be one change from
the expreaadon of the aame garmeni laal fall
and wlnter that will at once unmiatakabiy ?-.\
preaa ita newneaa to the Bartorlally well In?
formed. This is a e-eneral Ughtness of effect.
This feature will be madf oonspicuoua in both
overcoata and under.-oats by a decreaaed width
and heigbt <>f snoulder, and by a light.-r roll,
the notcb -.vidths of whleh will l..- leaa than f"r
many y:-ars; in waistcoats, by a narrower roll,
with a amaller notch, whether double or aingle
breaated, and ln the former by a leaa apread ..f
the button roll; and ln trousers by moreahapely
l.-a?K Karh of these style changea will !??? sllght,
but dlstinct. In <-oata the shoulders wlll not aver
age more than cne-quarter of an ineh narmw.-r
than they have been; the shoulder paddmg will
l.a- redii'-'-d only about one-quarter, and the
notrh widths will be only from one-eighth to
one-quarter inch less; ln walatcoata the roll
reductlon wlll eorrespond with that in coata,
and the spread in double breasted waistcoats of
tbe button rolls wll! not be redueed more than
one-half lnch; in trousers the knee width wlll
be one-half inch leaa, and the bottom width
one-half inch more.
There ls no change ln men's evenlng dress, ex
cept that for spring and summer the white
walstcoat la conaidered necessary. The single
br<-asted white walstcoat wlll also be worraawith
the dinner coat.
"There haa been too much Tuxedo, or dinner
coat." said a Fifth-ave. tailor. "to auit some
men of good taste. First, men wore these coats
to the tha-atre, then by alow stages they got to
wearlng them to places where evenlng dress was
posltively essential. In order that there may be
r,o further abuse of this kind. many of my cus
toiin-rs are havlng dinner coats made with but
tona and with three pockets on the outside.
Theae garments are really amoking jackets.
and could not be worn where there are women
preaent. If thia coat can bo made Bufflciently
popular to replace the preaent ahapely dinner
coat the fastidloua men will have no further
complaint to make, for men will then be com
pelled to wear the regulation evenlng <".-it at
evenlng functions."
Despite the efforts to make the ahort coat
unpopular, it will probably be worn as much
this year as it waa laat.
Day dresa wlll be whal it was ln the fall and
winter. The double breaated froek will be a
trili.- shorter than ii was last aeaaon, and this
well established garment will bav? a powerful
rival in the singl.- breaated coat, whlch has been
called the Klng Edward. In conaequence <>f
King Edward'a partiality for this coat, it will
certainly be worn more than it was laat year,
but lt will take a long time to make it as well
kn iwn as th>- froek, whicb waa originaily knowa
us th< Prince Albert. Th.- singl.- breaated coat
will be nnished m all reapecta like the double
breaated garment, but lighter in Btyle. Ii will
cloae with four buttona, <-x.-.-pt for short, Btout
men, whose coata willcloae with three buttona,
For general buslneaa the sack aull will be
worn more than the froek coat, although the
cutaway will be worri, especiallj by men who
prefer .lark, plain material t.> the fancy pat
terns All s.nks w ili ha ve moderately wide shoul
dera, built up b, medium aquareneas, and wlll be
Blightly Bbaped to# the form. ln length they
will be flve Inchea leaa than one-half the w?-ar
.r's h.-ight it single breaated, and one inch
? if double breaated. Outalde pocketa will
be worn "ti nearly all coats. The extremely
snori coal which s me men have worn for aev
eral seaaona may be ordered agaln hy the v.-ry
young men, bul theae coata have becorae known
as "college Jacketa," and will probably not h.
popular with other young men. The four but?
ton cutaway will hav.- double Btitched edges.
Th- Btraigbt front s;.ck wlll not have the mili
Utry effe< t that if bad last year. but it will
probably be wom qulte as much as it was
then Inaamuch as this coat looks b^st when it
is buttoti^d. it becomes an uncomfortable gar?
ment in the summer if it is made double
breusted. and on that account it will not be
worn much in thal way. A double breasted
sack, with the fronts .venly spaced for four
buttonholes. and closlng with only two but
tons, has many admirers. The cutaway front
and the light roll give it a long effect. which
ls heightened by flaps on the pocketa.
An afternoon riding costume is deseribed as
follows by the Mitcheil Company:
A single breasted froek, slightly cut away,
with blunted bottom corners, and a moderately
full skirt. made from worsted cheviot or any
oth'-r coating used for day dress; a double
breasted or a single breasted walstcoat ln regu
lar style. made from a fancy maferlal; moder?
ately pear shaped breeches. closlng closa* to the
knee, well ln front, to show tnree buttons above
plgskin leggins, or riding trousers; a derby hat;
a mgii banded turndown collar; a narrow four
in-hand acarf; tan colored glovea, and laced
ahoea.
This is for afternoon wear. The morning, or
muftl, coatuma will conaial of a alnarle breaated
cutaway aack made from any faahlonable suit
Ing, tbe sami' a.s for general buaineaa wear, ea
cept timt breaat pocketa cloaed with a hutton
wlll li- patched ..n, an.l that the hip pocketa wlll
be on a allghtly curved alant; a doubie breaated
coat, without a collar, wnh w.-n aloped
away fronta below the cloedng, made from a
fancy wool mati-rial; breechea, the same us for
tiie afternoon; a golflng cap. a stock, tan colored
glovea, leather leggina and laced ahoea.
Btnped Oannela and worateda wlll be worn for
golflng, and althougb there wlll ho aome knlck
erbocker coatumea, the Oannel, turned up trou
Bera wlll probably be worn more generaUy. The
blouse wi'i have two pleata in front and two In
th-- bai k, falling over a buckle in lt. below which
ar.- outaide pocketa, cloaed with a button.
Th>- materiala for aulta are more varled this
aeaaon i ha ti they have ever been before, ami
the domestic gooda shown hy faahlonable tailora
compare favorably with any from acroaa th.
water Last aeaaon'a modesl atrlpea and little
che.ks will not be enttrely out of piace this
year, but the loud patterna which were in favor
to s'uiio ixtHiu will probably not be s.en this
year. The tendency is to plain mixtures in
browna, draba and ollve.
The iiatterns ar<- Inconaptcuoua, and the man
with a tu-w spring suit this year wlll look neat
rath.-r than loud.
Strlped tious. rs will he worn with day ilitaa.
hut there will he many checka also. There is
much variety in walatcoal inaterlala, and there
are washalde poods on the market ranging
from white to black. In these goods the Ameri?
can manufacturers have also come to the front.
and in order to make a sale the tailor ls not
compelled to show an English or French trade
mark.
In its business forecast "The Sartorial Art
Journal" says on that polnt;
There are now but very few htgh ela*s
tailors, even ln our larger. cltles, who do not
show domestic goods to thelr CUatomera M
American gooda, and recomniend them kighly,
and the number of well dressed men who buy
them for business and for half dress sults ls
rapidly lncreaslng. Those tailora who stlll touch
American fabrles with fear or do not handle
them are steadlly decreaslng ln number, and
are seldom consplcuous in the foremost rank
of the trade.
The Scotch plaid aocks which the haberdash
era carried over last year have been sent to the
Far West and down South. Plaln socka, drab,
brown and black. wlll be worn largely, but
there wlll also be a good demand for embroid?
ered and vertlcal striped hosiery. Neckwear will
dlffer from last season's ln Its general tone.
which wlll be more aubdued. with a leanlng tow?
ard black and whlta mixtures, althougb. coro
natlon r.-d may flnd many patrana The nar?
row four in hand tlea ln fancy patterna and
stripea wlll be worn, and haberdaahera are alao
ahowini inea of narrow string ti>s with
broad ends. Large pufl tlea made of light silk
will be worn for day dress. with aroall acarf
plna ..f pearl or unburniabed gold The effort
to Introduce the burge ararfpln waa nol rac
c.-ssr'u! lasl year, ar.d th>- blg borsa>shoea and
Bunburata wlll not be aeen thia year, eacept at
tha racetracks, where they have alwaya
DOl iil.ir.
Th,- outing shlrt will not be as high rolored as
it was last year, and white wlll be worn more
than ever before. The pleated front sh:rt. which
became popular last s.-a.-on. will be w>?rn this
year more extensively than ever The shirt
makera ar<- ahowing large linea of white ma
terlal with small figures, an.l the garment a
made of theae fabrics, with pleated fronta
anda of medium slae, will probably be
k.1 s.-lhng articlea The oiiars for these
shlrta will be whiti There are alao many -
Btriped patterna among the lateal shirtinga, but
they .ue principally blue. gray and black, with
only .1 lighl aprlnkling of high colors. S i
colored percalea in pink. lighl blue and ttrab,
with perfectly plain rrot.ts. are among th.- aea
son'a noveltles, and fancy silk shlrta with llnen
wriatbanda, ranglng in price from 9750 to .Sll.
are also shown by flrsl .-l.iss haberdaahera.
The man who wishea t>> dresa well may aaake
his own styles in shlrta, aeckwear, hoaieri
clothing, bul he has little to say in the matter
of hats Th-se ar.- laid before him, and unlesa
he wishea apeclal blocka made for himself he
must abide by the judgmeM of his hatter. This
the silk hat will be aligbtly hiarh.-r in the
crown than th.- fall and winter ahape, the Bhape
wtii be a medium bell an.l the brim will i?- a
trilb- more tlat than it baa been f.,r matn
aona The derby hat has a hi^h eroara, with
a medium taper, narrow teian and medium
?ridth band without a buckle. Th>- depth of
crown will vary fr tn r>'4 to b* inches. th.- .">'
ln. h depth being the moal Bhapely. Bofi hats
<.f the Alpine ahape, in aeveral shades ..f drab,
will have wlde brima, well rolled. The best hats
have no binding on the brim. which is turned
aad Btltched.
? As t.. straw hats." said a leading hatter
"when hol weather comea anythlng in the wa>
of straw hats goea Bul wa always bave a
laader. The low crown and medium broad brim
hat made of Senator braid wlll be the leader I
this seasoti. The heavy. rough straw, which |
waa popular last year. wlll be worn again, al- i
though we will show the plalner styles tirst."
For several s, asons the Panama straw hat
has heen ln good demand, and although cheap
Imitationa have been placed on the market, these
do DOl crOWd OUl the real artlcle. and f.-w peo?
ple can ba- de. elved hy the "sham straw." Dun
lap has a large line <>f the genulne goods. rang?
lng ln price from "plS to j'tin, and a man who
knows the New-Tork hat trade well predicts i
that more Panama hats will be sold next season
at prices ranglng from 93S to 960 than of any
other quallty. The hats of this class received
from Manila by Knox last season as a trial
lot were sold quickly. and the Philippine Islands ?
will contrlbute their share again this year tow?
ard New-Tork'a hat sunply.
The styles in men's shoes have not changed I
materialiv slnce last season. The tendency is !
to heavy solcs and to shapes conducive to eaaa
fort. The narrow tOB will not he worn. Low :
cut shoes in tan and patent leather will be pop?
ular but fashionable shoemaka-rs have received i
_:_-??.1
,i ..iiuuua-d on tourtk pa>a??.> *
MODES FOR WOMEN.
FASHIONS FOR 1908 ARE PRET
T1ER THAN EVER BEFORE.
THE MODISH WOMAVS WARDROBE AXD
WHAT IT WII.L mXTAIX-A FEW
RF.VIYALS OF BYr.OXE DAYS.
ARDLY ever before has ther*
th.- varlery that ls tha
iHyaeta of tha fashions forisat.
This statement is equa'.ly truo
?^j-^ of fabrics and modes. for there
has never been a time when ao
burge a cholc* in hoth was pos
wheth.r ln tallored ar
. k'liwns.
First ln the list of favoritea
in the aWaaak w.m.an's ward
That ls tha>
prtmary fact. hut its dlverst
-^-^"^gS^_ Haa are numerous. for loulslne,
satin. m.'lr?. taffeta. Liberty
foulaid and peau de solo are, one and all. desirabla.
Printed facow????* an.l warp printed damasses are
ln tba fr.ii' .... hut, as they are extremelji erx
... arlll r...t hav~ .,ng of
tbe other vari-tlt-s aaaa
Th.- i-ha:n,'..on eff, cts that have been out of
favor for mttweral yaan are aaaa aaaaaa in some of
th,- mo-t fetchlnaj of tho taapotted |
Anoth.-r r. vival ls ai the tiny ""pin stripe" deslgn
Women wr i are old enough to
adtnit it say th it "'pin strip- rn by them
tataaty-aYva - ariU be especlally
llked by younsr guis and debutantes. as they ara
charmtngly .!ainty. They are usually of pink. blue
or graea aad whtae, aiihough a few examples hava
been seen in black and white.
Poaagaa la agata ln demand. and the leading
houaes have .-inhroidered banda for trimming. that
lntroduce a hishly effective t'">uch of color.
The etamines. canvase*. vetlings and simllar open
weaves are quite the most popular thinga in
woollen goods. and are to be employed for both
tallored and dr.-ssy gowns. For evening wear,
chiffons and a velllng so thin as to be almoat a
wool ??mull" are to be much used. and are capablei
of producing exquislte effects with the laces and
emhroideries now in vogue.
Printed chiffons are a novelty ln thia ilne. and
some of the daintiest of Newport gowns are mada
of them.
The full box pleated skirt has returned to favear
ln these thin materiais. and the pleata are often
tcimmeii with vertlcal rows of narrow silk or vel
vet rtbfeaa and medallions of lace. With auch a
skirt. a favorite ai aleava is made by box
naaallng the mat.-nal to the elbow, thence ailowlng
it to fali loeaaly and iiallaed to the wrlst la a deep
ruffle, or gathered ln a puff into a cuff.
The collaxleaa neck *a eatabllahed as a aummar