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PAH I HI.
EIGHT PAGES. HINTS FOR EUROPEAN TRAVEL. THE SPRING HUSH ABROAD NOW ON— SUMMER PIL GRIMAGE SOON TO FOLLOW. Trips Short and Long for Vacation — How to Go, Where, Hax to Get There and Where to Stay. The annual spring rush to Europe has beg Tin and it will not be long before the Transatlantic liners' decks will be crowded with those opulent In the possession of a three weeks' or a month's Bummer vacation who will spend their brief respite from the day's work In a short but nevertheless delightful rest which will Include an ocean voyage and sightseeing that give health and instruction In •ome foreign land. Just now it is those more fort unate in having a fat bank account, tho?e whose hands m-eary with clipping coupons from bonds who are making merry In the first cabins of the palatial express steamers which cross and recross the Atlantic almost as if that vast ocean were a mill pond. Hut the summer >nonths will soon come wherein th.se less rich In time and worldly goods Will na\e th. ir opportunity. And there is no rea aon mhy the man with a three weeks' vacation ahould not go to Europe as well as he who has two month* oi leisure at his disposal. In these 4ays of express steamers and fast European trains to* will have nearly two weeks to spend in those places which he may sjsaact as his goal. He can take in London. Paris and Berlin, or by shortening the time spent at each place go even further and rc-.-.ch the mountains of Switzerland, the dikes of Holland or the watering places of Germany and Austria. If there's one thing that distinguishes your Amer fcan travelling abroad Its hlf anxiety to know the t*mr*rature in whir- he moves. Tho thermometer apeaks to him as pertinently in Emroi»e as in New- Toric-lf h« can read it. But h« cant always reid It. and. when he can, he can't always understand It All the European thermometers give only de crees In centigrade or Reaumur, except, of course, thoee In England. The cut of a table of ther fnometric comparisons appecring in another col umn will enable travellers who will cut it out and put it In their pockets to tell in Fahrenheit degrees the European temperature SOME NECESSARIES FOR TRAVELLING. A letter of cm!lt or circular notes-the former the most convenient, safest and most wnsible way of carrying money abroad— and a passport should toe carried by every traveller. He may not need the passport at all titnea. but when he does need it he •wiM need It badly. Send to the State Department, Passport Bureau. Washington, for a printed pass port form. When you get It fill !t out, swear to its oontenu beiort a notary and aend It back to tha ELECTRIC RAILWAYS TO CHAMONIX, SHOWING BRIDGE OF ST. MARY. State Department with $1. The passport will soon be sent to you. One Is sufficient for man and wife or a father and his family where there are no frown up sons or daughters. Passports are abso lutely necessary if one is called on to prove his Identity; moreover, they are useful in obtaining for the bolder admissions to public buildings, private art galleries, museums, etc. In the spring and summer months it Is best to book your passage on the steamer two or three weeks in advance if you would be sure of a berth; sometimes four or five weeks. Two trunks, one big end roomy, ttoutly made and a flat steamer trunk which wilt slip wider a berth will take about all that i* necessary for the -traveller whose stay abroad cannot extend over a month. In Switzer land, North Germany, Scotland and Italy warm underclothing ana overcoats and cloaks are indis pensable, £ui<l should always be rear at hand, not packed away in the trunk. A large part of the equipment of the traveller can be bought when he arrive* In Europe more cheaply than in the United States, po one '-an travel light en baggage until he Sets to the other side. The European customs houses are less exacting than those in United States ports, as most travel lers will testify. Nowhere on the Continent is one forced to go through the humiliating and Insulting ordeal seen at the New-York piers whenever an ocean liner lands her passengers. Women's clothes are not str«»n over floors there as they are here sjrMta a grinning crowd looks on. In Great Britain one can carry almost anything except a house and Bo questions are a.«k«-d. "Declare everythir.K. a%.<\ be absolutely frank about It." is the odvice one exi*erienced traveller Save a Tribune r«pori«-r wnn asked the easiest way through foreign customs.* "As a rule, you will have nothing dutiable. If you declare anything you may suspect of coming under the regulations you may be taxed slightly. If you neglect to declare and the article* are found they will *urr].v be confiscated." On landing at Liverpool or other British port, the traveller it,- etc the blue uniformed collector for the King. Jl« i" usually mopt polite, and his examina tion is largely perfunctory. He is looking for three things— spirits, tobacco or cigars and foreign re prints of copyrighted English books. If one de clare* spirits and cigars, a half pint and a half pound of each are admitted duty free. Tlm customs collectors of Holland are harder to deal with. They have a way of making up their cam minds about things they find In luggage, and, once made up. there is no perruadlng them to change. Frank confession regarding all new arti cles in one's possession is the safest way to avoid confiscation. The little duties they exact amount to nothing. A visit to the douane, or customs bouse, of France Is a pleasure more often than not. The officials are «ayly uniformed and models of politeness. They have a sha. , eye for cigars, tobacco and matches. •nd It Is foolishness for an amateur to attempt to amugele anything part them, for they know most cf the tricks They issue receipts for dutlej paid, which ere of use later on to show the collectors of the octroi, or municipal tax. whom always with thus* who travel through Franc*, CV /4W -. , -~— -_^ Jl '^^^^^^^m^^^^^^ The way through tne customs houpf* of Europe and across the frontiers is not hard if one keeps one's head and does as one Is told. The few mixups that occasionally come to the American consulates are generally Oue to a misunderstanding of one kind or another, more often than not through a language misunderstanding. RAILROAD TRAVEL AHROAD. Everywhere In Europe the traveller will find rail way travel divided Into first, second and third class, pave on tho English Midland Railway and a section of the Great Northern, which have no sec ond class. Express trains on the Continent have no third class. First class Is best for long Jour neys: second rood enough for Bhort runs. If on« wants to study the European masses he will find all the opportunity he desires by journeying in third class carriages. Second class in Germany and Austria Is almost as comfortable as first c.ass in England and France. All the railway and station employes expect tips, but these need no*t he large. Many difficulties that beret travellers will he over baggage. The American system of checking bag gage Is practically unknown on the Continent. The railroad puts bapgape vans on the train and throws up its hands as to further responsibility. You look after your own baggage or pay some porter to do It for you. On crossing a frontier it is necessary for the passenger to go to tho baggage van, get out his trunk, watch it through the examination and then see that it goes on board again. At the termi nal the baggage is dumped in a heap, and each pas senger picks out his own. The amount of baggage carried free varies with tho countries. Let those who have grumbled at a 150-pound allowance on American rules, with "lia bility limited to $100 for wearing apparel." prepare for the worst. In England, where one finds rail roads moFt generous, the allowance Is only 112 pounds. In most Continental countries It averages sixty pounds. In Belgium, Bavaria, Italy and Switzerland not a pound la carried free. Smokers will have to be careful on foreign trains, or they will find themselves in carriages where Smoking Is prohibited. In Germany smoking is al lowed In all carriages save those marked "Fur Nichiraucher." In England, France and Italy It is prohibited tn all save one or two on each train, which the guards will designate on application. One of the commonest troubles which fall to Americana is finding their own carriage after • alighting at a luncheon station or for exercise at ', one of the division points. The men from the ; States— the women, too. for that matter— form j the habit on long Journeys of getting out of the ; train at the slightest sign of a wait. With the '■ vestibuled and connected coaches It matters not ! where they get on. but In Europe, where each car j riage Is separate and can only be entered from the I side when the train Is at a stand, It is a different . matter. Numbers are forgotten, transposed and ] variously twisted. The conductor will be ready to I start, only to find half a dozen Americans rushing : helter-skelter along the train looking for their com ! partments. .There Is much delay, excited gesturing 1 and* loud talking in consequence. It remained for the French to hit upon a scheme • which has proved a great improvement. They ' painted pictures on the carriage doors and windows ! —pictures of windmills, elephants, tigers, steam anything. In fact, that is easily recognized and ■ remembered. Now. instead of having an excited ; passenger running about looking for carriage No. 231. when he really belongs in No. 132, all he has to d,, is to call out. 'Wind Mill." or "Dish of Ice ; Cream;' 1 and the guards know Just where he be . I lit..--. H.i fare for children is another proposition which the foreign railroad people have turned into a tan ! gle. On the Continent children travel free until ■ three years of age, and at half fare from three to ; ten year*. In Germany two children under the age I of ten travel on one ticket. If not fortunate enough ! to possess two "darlings." the parent gets a full I fare third class ticket and the child can travel sec ! end class, or a full fare second class ticket and tho child rides first cla«=s. ', Children abroad have no opportunity of telling the conductors fit..* about their use. If is "'I Fet tled at the "booking olllcc." In France the half fare age Is between three and seven, and the "book i Ing B«efit H is sole judge of the child's age. Many I an American nvc-year-old gets "soaked" full fare because of his gOOd start in the matter of grow j ing. Mothers tray protest until they are red In ! the face and the child may swear on his Sunday i school evrtMcate that he is only five or six. but It ! does no good. if the smiling Frenchman shakes his ! head and demands "the full fare, madam." If he j believes the child is under seven he writes "enfant" L en the parent's ticket and Issues a half fare permit ! BEAUTIES OP RURAL. ENGLAND. '■ The travellers first experience with an English ! or Continental railroad is likely to be a pleasing I one The volume of transatlantic travel has become I bo great that the railways have put on special ex press trains between Liverpool and London. Bremen and Berlin and Parts and Cherbourg. The* train, are entirely modern in every respect and excellently appointed. , ! The nremen-B« rlln express has of late been going In for speed, and has reduced the time between the ■ port and* capital to 5 houn and 38 minutes. The I extra speed is all mad.- between Bremen and Han over where the steamer express coaches arc trans ferred to fh© Cologne-Berlin express. In addition to this, a night train has be* n put on. with a complete a] aping car equipment, not unlike the Pullman »cr- NEW- YORK TRIBUNE. SATURDAY. APRIL 15. 1905. OLD HOUSES (CALLED HOLBORX BARS) IN HOLBORN, LONDOX. Back of these is Staples Inn. The houses are surrounded by modern structures, and were condemned to be pulled down when strong public outcry decided the owners to restore and pre serve the,m for the sake of "Auld Lang Syne." vice In America except for the absence of the negro porter. When the steamers are late in ror.chins Liverpool and the passengers miss the regular express trains. Ihe Midland Company provides a special express from the Central Station at.Ll\ferpool to St. Pancr&a In London without extra charge A great effort is being made by the railro-id companies to persuade Americans to "slow up" long enough in their rush upon London and Paris to enjoy the beauties of rural England. To that end most liberal stop-ovcr privlleges are offered and an express service ar ranged which Is a great improvement over previous years. Manchester, with its teeming population, wonder ful factories and ship canal, is becoming a favorite stopping place for a few hours. Many spend BOT eral days in Derbyshire, with its old castles and abbeys and beautiful country scenery. Passen^c-rs are permitted to break their Journey at any station at which the train stops. London, with its historic associations; Ireland, with its legends and lakes, and Scotland, with its heather, He close at hand, as it wore, and for the traveller with but a bhort space of lime at hand offer the most attraction. Paris, all Frnnce, too, is within the grasp of him who has a month, but no more, to spend. Ger many and Austria. Holland and the iow countries, Spain am] Italy, are only for him who has ample leisure. For these last, however, at tins season Switzerland ia the name to conjure with. The very name- breathes rest and cool calm, as well as the grandest scenery mortal eye can rest on. THE SiMPLON TUNNEL. One of tha sights which v.ill attract tourists, a brand new sight it will be, too, will be the com pleted Slmplon tunnel, one of the greatest of-mod ern engineering feat 9. The traveller enters It at Brigue. in Switzerland, and alights at laeUe, Italy, or vice versa. By this tunn»! London is brought sixty-eight miles neurer to Milan, or will be when tlio line is actually opened for traffic; and. in general, the communication between the Northern and the Southern cities of Europe is distinctly benefited by this great work. Never before has man dived so far into the; bow. -is of the earth, aiul the least im aginative- traveller who passes beneath the Sim plr.n after the tunnel hits been opened, in March, can hardly fail to think with wonder and awe of the gigantic superincumbent mass. The two worst foes that hay? had to be overcome in the course of the work seesn to have been the tremendous beat of the rock :ind tho .>c-urrer»-;e of boiling rprlncrs. probably of volcanic origin, one of which very n<?arlv brought work and workers alike to an end. By really marvellous alignment the two shafts ore so exquisitely adjusted that when th^y meet their 2e*tat!oil from the perfect line is a matter of a foot or two. The tunnel through the Slmplon. which is 21.570 yards, or a ttttle over Uhi miles in length, is th. largest in the world. It is almost straight from FALLS OF THE UIIINE. R, UnfThiiusen by inooaliKht. SchnffhHUsen tl close to Basle, and is ono or the most beau tiful ausroma.HU Sot. In B««P». and noted a, an "after cure" rrsort. end to end. That portion of the work now finished is one of the two tunnels: the second, partially made, will remain in its rough state until tho tarn ißga of the first amount to 2.000 francs per kilo metre. The entrance to the tunnel on the Swiss side Is situated at an altitude of 2.249 ft. 1% in., and at a distance of a little more than IV. miles from Brigue. The level stretch, which is at the greatest alti tude reached by the tunnel, is 2.310 ft. 9U In. above the sea level. The mouth of the tunnel on the Italian side is at the altitude of 2.079 ft; 2 in. The avt-rajje height of the mountain above tho tunnel is 3,740 feet, the highest point situated on the Italo- Swiss frontier being 7.004 ft. 10 in. above the level of the tunnel. In the pumphoupe for the tunnel at Brigue tour ists will see the name of the New- York makers on the pumps. The boiling spring which nearly over whelmed the workers and almost prevented the completion of the tunnel can also be seen. PANORAMA OF HILL COUNTRY. Switzerland! Almost the first thought that comes to the mind of the expectant tourist is Switzerland and Its mountains and lakes, the very antithesis in th>ir coolness and beauty of New-York's blocks of stone houses and furnacelike asphalt. One need not l><; a mountain climber and risk life and limb to gain tho summits of those majestic peaks, for the skill of the engineer has surmounted the obstacles LOOKING TOWARD THE GRAND CANAL FROM THE LOGGIA OF THE DOGES* PALACE, VENICE. of nature and built railways that take the traveller whence he can view the grandest scenery of its kind In Europe. First comes the Vitznau-Rlgi line, the oldest and at the same time the most Interesting of the moun tain railways of Switzerland. It attains an eleva tion of 1,628 feet above the Vltznau lake. It mounts rapidly through cheatnut groves and across the romantic Schnurtobel Bridge to Freibergen station. The lake U quickly left beneath, the prospect ex pands, mountains begin to lift their crests around, and, passing the Romlti-Felsentor station, the san atorium of Rlg'.-Kultbad. with its famous terraces and views and its extensive and picturesque grounds. Is reached. A few yards west of the hotel, between rugged masses of rock, is the Pilgrim's Chapel. An easy ten minutes' walk over level (round takes one to the Kanzeli (4.470 feet), belong ing: to the Kaltbad Hotel, a magnificent point of view and the loveliest spot on the Rigi. The Vltx nuu-Rigl Railway continues Its upward course to Rigi-Staffel. where all at once there opens the im mense prospect of the hill country of Northeastern Switzerland, with its lakes. Stretching northward aa far as the Jura, Blank Forest, and Voages Moun tains. Rigi-Staffel, In.iced, with Its two large ho tels, is the centre of the Risi traffic; from here the railways run up to the Kulm. the Arth-Rigi line Joining the Vltznau line here and keeping sida by side with It to the summit. ARTH-RIOI RAILWAY SCKNFS. The Arth-Rigi Railway begins at Arth. at tha southern extremity of the I^ake of Zug. where the passengers coming by steamboat from Zug dis embark. Traversing the grassy valley of Arth.'lt goes to Qoldau. the Junction with the St. Gothard line and the SUd-Ost Railway coming from th& Lake of Zurich. Here the mountain railway be gins ascending the rocky Bide of a ravine, through tunnels and across bridges and viaducts, through romantic scenery, and giving a gradually widening view of th» Alps. of Eastern SwltzeYlantl. Rigl- Klosterlt. a sheltered Alpine valley, is soor. reached, a spot oft times selected for a long stay. The F.iKi-Kulm (0.303 feet) is the culminating point of the Rigl and the summit most frequently as cended by tourists. Somewhat lower, so that they do not interfere with the view, stand the imposing Rigi-Kulm Hotel and the little terminus of the R!gi Railways. There stretches before the looker a landscape more than two hundred miles in diame ter, including fourteen lake;, the undulating hill country north of the Alps, and the Jura, Black Forest and Yosyea Mountains on the northern horizon, while toward the south a host of tow.erins peaks form, a snowy garland. .Gleaming likes and rifers. towns, villages nd grassy meadowlands lie at the feet, and range upon fange Of lofty moun tains surround or.". The mountain is within easy reach of Lucerne. The hotels afford every comfort that one can wish for. DELIGHTS OF THE ST. GOTHARD. Up mountain side, through valley and along lake shore threads the St. Gothard Railway," in the midst of the glorious, awe inspiring work that Nature's hand has done so lavisaly in the Alps. After leaving' the Lucerne station the St. Gothard passes In quick succession through two tunnels. crosses the rapid Reuss opposite the last Musegg 1 tower, and enters a third tunnel leading around the town, from which it emerges into daylight on the lake shore. From this point a beautiful coun try, luxuriant meadows interspersed with pict uresque villas and farmhouses and charming jrlimpses of the lake anil mountain.-?, greets the eye. ileggen, occupying a situation of unequalled beauty, an open terrace on a fertile slope, with Urn clear blue waters of the lake below, and on the opposite shore the idyllic hamlet of Greppea, with the Rlgi rising Steeply above it, is the first station reached. Next is Kussnacht, at the end of the lake, nestling at the foot of the Rigi, amid lovely sur roundings. From here the Itigi can be ascended, over the Seebodenalp, in three hours. Half an hour's walk from KOssnaehi is the celebrated Hohls Gasse, or Hollow Way, with a eharel marking the spot where Tell, according to tradition, slew the tyrant Gessler. THE TOP OF MOUNT PILATUS. From the Hotel Pllatus-Kulm a romantic path, partly blasted out of solid rock, leads in three quarters of an hour to the Tomli3horn. 6.DOS feet, ■the highest summit of the mountains there. A new path, also blasted from th • rock, made safe by rail ings, leads to the southern peak, the Matterhorn, after three-quarters of an hour's walk. From the KUmsenhorn Hotel a path leatfs to the beautiful ravines of the Eisental. Clinging to the abrupt steeps like a snail, yet as safe as a Broac! way surface oar, trains mount the Eseiwand and creep to th© top of .Mont Plhvtnm A surpassing view of Lake Como Is that obtained from the balconies and terraces of what was for merly the chateau of the unfortunate Queen Char lotte. It has been entirely remodelled into a thor oughly modern hotel, the Grand — Villa d'Este. Cernobblo Is the last station before reaching Come. Those fortunate enough to become guests at the Villa d'Este should r.ot fail to see the famous statue .group of Cupid and Psyche, at the Villa Carlotta, where the beautiful gardens are one of the chief delights of a land of sunshine and flowers. THE PILATUS RAILWAY. The Pilatus Railway is one of the boldest and grandest mountain railways in the world; is 5.040 yards long, and it accomplishes the ascent from Alpnachstad to Pilatus-Kulm <5.02S feel) in one hour and twenty-nvt minutes. The tourist knows not which to admire most, the railway or the pros pects it affords. Among the most interesting parts from a technical point of view are the vialuct over the Wolfort Ravine and the four tv/i;:- i.; piercing the precipices of the Eiel. Grand beyond descrip tion is the view that presents itself when on le.\v in.; the terminus, which stands close to the old Hotel Bellevue. now n dependence of the spacious and comfortable Hotel rilatus-Kulna. the traveller suddenly sees Lucerne and its lake lying at an enormous depth below. A staircase with iron balustrade 1' ads in five minutes from the Rote] Pilatus-KuUn to the bold and open summit of the Esel, rising like a tower from the rocky ridge. In the long range of snowy Alps the mountains of the Bernese oberlaml are conspicuous, especially the majestic group Monch. Elger and Jungfrau. The prospect of th£ Lake of Lucerne is here seen in Us full extent. Further tv the north the lakes o; JCug. Sempneh. Ualdegg an Halllvil come within the vision, while the horizon Is bounded by the blue range of the Jurae 1-oiHer. and more commanding eve-) than the Ki^i Pilatua presents an awe Inspu panorama. AN ELEVATOR TO THE JUNGFRAU. There seems to be M height too 'tizzy, no path too tortuous for the engineers to attempt. A rail was Is now being constructed into the heart of the Jungfmu and ■ shaft constructed straight upward to the mountain top. which will be reached by an elevator. Thus soon ascending to the summit of the Jungfrau will be almost as pros-Uc as rMing to the top floor of a skyscraper. A PICTURESQUE ROUTE. The Yver.lon-St. Croix Railway conne-ts St. Crobc (4.400 feet high), much frequenud in the summer and celebrated for its manufacture of musical boxes, with Yverdon -(1.700 feet), much reputed for Its thermal waters. The baths of Yverdon. fifteen minute* from the town, at the foot of wooded hills. are becoming more and more frequented; the use of the sulphurous waters of Vverdon (used since the time of the Remans) attracts invalids from all countries. There are delightful excursions for them to make, either by cycling on excellent roads or by steamboat or rowing on the lake or the nver. In communication by means of numerous trains with Lausaane, NvuchAtel, Avenchw. Kribourg SATURDAY. APRIL 15. THERMOMETR C COMPARISONS. ■ ah.i St. Crcix. Yverrton rormd an tmportrtut centre. There are two rowing clubs which organize r»» gattas during the summer. The extremely picturesque line of the Yuerdon- St. Croix Railway begin* at Yverdon: It theft rises gently through forests arjtl fields and rustic village* such as Vulleyres-so'us-Montagny. Essert-sous- Ctvampvent. Per.ey ami Vuitteboeuf. The latter. nestling in luxuriant veriiure, 13 situated at tho entrance of the Gorges tie Covatannaz, where th« tourist may find a footpath leading to St Croix in one hour and fifteen minutes. It the Gorges do Covatannaz cannot bear comparison with those. for instance, of the Aar. they are none the less very Interesting on account of the beautiful woods' which line them and the high walls o' rocks, at the IKJTtom of which the bounding Arnon tills the whirlpool with harmonious sounds. From Six-For.taines the railway begir.3 to climb the- Jura, vrendini; its way through forests of flr trees, cutting thrmigh rocks, without, la any way destroying the beauty of the country, dominating the plain stretched cut below as far as the eye can see, offering to the voyager the grand and enchant* ing panorama of tho whole glittering chain of th» Alps, from Saleve to S>'intis. Then, after bavins . followed in its overhanging course the wild and deep Gorges de Covatannuz. it finishes at th© vil lage of St. Croix. The journey ot about an hour on this bold line, constructed partly on the rock and protected in several places by thick w:i!ls, especially n..-ar the Rapil'es tie Uar.imes. is cne of the most interesting and :.:;;u -s.-:\ -■ that could be mail* on a THE RHAETIAN RAILWAY. TV.- Rhaetian railway system, in the Swiss Can ton of Grisons, takes the traveller to start with from Landquart to Coire. On both sides at tha track;--, which traverse -the fertile plain and win* growing villages, rise picturesque castle ruins look ins tlown grimly from their crags. Among these is the Castle of M.irschlins, which tradition says was built by Charlemagne. The villages of Ijfis. Ztsjsas> and Untervas ara pus?ed and Trimmis is reached. THE LEGEND OF THE GOLDEN SKITTLES. There are many romantic legends concerning this) locality. *;ind among them the story of the Goliien Skittles ot the Ituchejiberg is perhaps worth nar rating. The pious and charitable wife of Caron Cuoo of Ruchenbcrg had rendered asr.l.itar.ce at a critical moment to the elQa Queen residing in the interior of the mountain. As a. rvxarG she hail been pre sented with some jjo!t!en sUUUej. with which »h* could at any time summon the benevolent mountaia •r.ntes tc her aid. In ;our>tf of time the «t»tl* t'ume to be occupied by a ueaceuO^.u ot the piou* tody, v wild spendtfcnit of ajtattow. wno nausea ttie. fairies' present by squan-enn-j in Li.vleds rev elry the m«w*urt» they sii;.Wi*a ™ ! » «:'-"• , un ; 11 "°° day. Instead ot the fain* ? . nine *•**£*•&?£!!,■£: awerea his summons. Nor wa* thi3 all. with lerrltlc crash the castle Ml In ruina. burying to It* fail the baron and hus boon companions. Ot all its inhabitants only the mUcreanf* pious daush.er "'■•■';,, by the erfMC .:■ .1 with them she ha* since nHM .1 v mournful existence :in UN heart ot the mountain. One* "i * century she returns to tho upper worm, stalks, atuxwt M the whits veil of a brute an.oß« the Jar* fir uvvs. i and looks forth rhicerly from the ivy covered r.si::;< <>f her ancestral home, if percuurMN.- sho may sups :li» happy youth who will deliver her ami regain, with her nana, lha> golden skittles of itv- elv*s^ ...,., , .. Th»- last station before Coire Is llalJcr.stetn. tit uatcd beyond the Rhli>e at the Calar.da 0.212 feet). which cisja be easily anccndeO in seven hour*, It ia itdruuMf to- »r t>n 'l tfu - n:^ht in ta«j cat>un« of tha Swiss Alpine club, and climb the summit la time to ccc the sunrise. Ths Calasda commands a tin* panorama. Peaks anJ valleys follow one another fn/pleasins alternation, antl to the narth the pros pect extends far beyond :he Swiss irontier. In th«» vicinity of HaltUrtstein stand tho ruins of threw castles. Half an hour after leaving uitU|iutrt. Coir*. where all trains s:c;i> for live or ten minutes. Is reached. The town is one ot tne m»at ancient iB Switzerland. Us origin dating buck to tUe Uxaa wlkaß