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6~ •-NVS STAITH, WHITBY, ON THE YORKSHIRE COAST.
THE YORKSHIRE COAST. I Holiday Walk Across the Moors to JVhitby. Whitby, August 20. »v f Yorkshire coast has the wild, breezy. j^t moors behind it and gtarious views of .kj sea eastward. Prom the low sand dunes * Lincolnshire it rises beyond the Humber to j* glittering white cliffs of Flamborovgh Head. I Piley there is a broad ribbon of sand where » k»« «ef of rock cuts Jts way into tne sea * isd at Scarborough there Is a ruined castle high Mt the sweep of curving beach and the maze if holiday shops and luxurious hotels. With s.<t«Mting streaks of gray and red the cliffs j^nt higher from Hayburn Wyke to the Peak. -i beyond that noble headland is the tranquil Zx& of Robin Hood's Bay. with a road steep as j ladder slanting up from the beach Into a top fT-tcrvyfloin of pray houses and red tiled reofs. Pctaps this oi>!time smuggler's village Is. less -jaint and picturesque than it was before it «v modernized for the convenience of tourists; cetainly it is less like Dutch Volendam than lairhes, with its tumble-down hovels, it* short ened fishwives and its precipitous rock faces, where a draper's boy heard the waves calling ■ him and ran away to sea to make a name as retain Cook. Between Staithcs and Robin Haod's town there is a range of lofty cliffs, and anong them, with a ruined abbey and a stone iurch high on the inner wall, is ancient Whit :y, with the Bsk losing its way westward in a angle of wind-swept moorland. Happy is the ii fashioned traveller who has faith in his legs ted follows patiently the trail among the rocks. ■<■;* and wilds mile aftei mile, with the breath at ac sea on the high moors around him! A long way off he sees the landmarks of the Eat Cliff. St. Mary's Tower and the crumbling iiSey, while the glints of red and blue under lets are Wbitbjr. There is a point of view fa every famous ruin in England. Tintern. disappointing from without, is tranfigured into Etueline&s and loveliness from within, with the r^n turf in are of the tessellated pavement cd with masses of ivy softening with verdure the cold gray lines of the matchless arcades. tolaesbury triumphs gloriously over time, de ay and patch work restoration when the majes tic south porch is closely approached. The time torn tower of Fountains Abbey must be seen inaptly at the turning of the road through the ark. or its sombre beauty, isolated majesty and itoofnesa from the workaday world will not be appreciated. Whitby Abbey lacks neither charm ft color nor refinement of decoration, but its Mere simplicity needs long lines of perspec tive. When it looms up far afield on the crest * the cliff it seems in perfect accord with Its ■Yironmer.t. There is the solemn silence of the wild moorland; there Is the loneliness of the la. and there is the pensive melancholy of the thirteenth century ruin, with its splendid west men. its shattered aisles and transepts and its nmbling choir. It fits in with Its scenic setting WKiaely as the Escorlal seems to have sprang Rt of the mountain defiles, because the spirit < the rtern. rockgirt barrens is in It. It mat to* not who St. Hilda was. or what was doae a the storied abbey when it was harried by Bsaea or Norsemen, or when the tower fell and the ruinous nave was left desolate. The siV bouette of the mediaeval temple high among the neks between the moors and the sea is complete is its sombre grandeur. On closer approach '•be rough-hewn steps of a Via Dolorosa will be wonted, architectural details revealed, ancient tod modem wayside crosses discovered and a ixteenth century manor house forced into Commence; and then it will be know a that the sbtle fascination of the gray abbey is an en sWhnrnt of dreamy ranges of distance. So also is 11 with -be low stone tower of the ■riab church. When it is seen across the toora Ifc has a primitive dignity, and. Jutting; OUK D -ULY TRIBUNE, PUNDAY. ATOI'ST 26. 1!W, oat of th* shattered wans of the abbey, like a vine oat of the hollow bole of a dead oak. it quaintly suggests the survival of religlen from the decadence of medievalism. On closer view, when the parapet of the East Cliff has been scaled, it proves to be an ogfy edifice without form or distinction, and with the original Nor man features marred by restoration cobbling, and when the porch is passed there Is a fan tastic jumble of staircases, galleries, high backed pew boxes, a pillared canopy for the squire and a three-decker pulpit for the vicar, until every arch Is littered with fu-nitwre and every window is blocked with timber. The old haven under the hill cannot be seen from the distant moors. The bell shoals must be approached as far as the ropewalk. and then the older quarter of the port is disclosed as a lone, rambling street under the East Cliff, with a tangle of lanes on either side and a clutter of red tiled peak roofs pierced with chimney pots above the gray gables and dormera The narrow Esk, with fishing craft aground In mud banks at low tide, is crossed midway by an old stone bridge, with steep corkscrew streets be hind it. There are two stone piers with light houses at the river mouth, and on the west cliff opposite there are huge hotels, long esplanades, a pretentious spa, and all the garish contriv ances and sideshows of a modern summer re sort. The old port has been ruthlessly modern ized, but it has not yet lost its beauty of color and quaint aspect. Painters love its doll reds, soft g~»~8 and blue mists, and with the herring ROBERT 1- GERRY. This son of Commodore Elbridge T. G&rry had »n opportunity the other day, when he "came a cropper" at the hunt of the Monmouth County Hounds at Newport, to show the kind of pluck that win*. His horse slipped at th» nrst jump, and together rider and beast rolled over. Dazed, Mr. Gerry lay for several mimrass on the grass beside his mount. Specta tors ran up from » I directions and assisted him to rise. Although bruised about the face and body he insisted on mounting again and continuing after the hounds. He took the following jumps in flying style, in his efforts to oe in at the "kill" and succeeded in over taking all except Prince Cantacuzsne, to whom h* was a close second. After the hunt ha found that hi« bruises were sufficient to prevent mm from engaging in the sport again for several days. Mr. Gerry is a member of the Knickerbocker, Metropolitan, Racquet and Tennis, New York Yacht and Harvard dubs. boats ia the shallows, the overhanging cliffs and the winding stone stairways and the background of moorland, pictures compose themselves. It must have been quainter and more primitive twenty years ago, before the river terraces and stone piers were filled with swarms of trippers and summer boarders; yet the flsherfolk are still here; there are picturesque rooKeries and corners; the uplands are covered with heather, and the coast line is as bold and rugged as the river scenery is tranquil and lovely. Whitby, with all its modern Innovations, retains the •■Pect of a Dutch flahir.g yurt. Holiday U-alHc A TYPICAL ATI_ANTIC CITY SAILBOAT WAITING TO BE HIRED BY THE HOUR, DAY, WEEK OH SEASON. has not taken away Its heritage of heaaty and ; simplicity. BL. Hilda, whose white face In a shroud the fishwives used to see by moonlight in one of th* high abbey windows, has not been an efficient patron of the old town. She has not protected the industries of the port and the natives have not known how to do it for themselves. Captain Cook, whose house in Grape Lane, near the bridge, is now a curiosity shop, used to bring his ships Into harbor and some of them, were built here. There was commerce in those days, but It has gone, although the stone jetties reach out their long arms to draw it In. There was once a prosperous shipbuilding trade in the lower i.sk. but the last ywrd was closed lons] ago. "Whltny was one of the centres of the whale and seal fisheries during the eighteenth century, and its sailors were among the hardiest seamen in Greenland waters. The herring fleet Is still harbored among the mud banks, but It is a meagre remnant of what was once a flourishing marine industry. During the Elizabethan period the alum beds were worked successfully, but the business has been discontinued. Large sup plies of crude Jet were found among the shales of the coast cliffs. an»i hundreds of skilled artisans were employed in polishing it and converting it Into ornaments. Fashions have changed sine® the early Victorian period, and there is no longer a demand for these trinkets. Some of the factories still stand, but the wheels are no longer running, and Jet Is numbered among the lest industries. St. Hilda has been too busy mending her shroud among the moonbeams on the cliffs to look after the trades of the humble fishcrfolk. The industries have bten going oown steE'lily. while the abbey walls have been crumbling. Is it strange that the impoverished town has turned to Dame Fashion's shrine when all other resources have failed? It has sought to convert the old fishing port into a summer resort by building spacious hotels, multiplying villas and lodging houses, and working up. by hook or by crook, a catchpenny holiday traffic It tan hardly be expected that the sentimental tourist who has been tramping tvtenty miles across the moors for glimpses of the Yorkshire coast will like the new oiOer of progress in Whitby. He will condemn with fine irony the garish architecture, the open-air concerts, the golf links and the motor cars as sordid conces sions to the commercial spirit, and will follow the trail of the painters to Rossrwlck and Staithes, where fishermen are contented with their lot and live as the Whitby seafolk used to do before whaling, shipbuilding, alum working and Jet polishing gave out and they were forced to minister to the pleasures of the Mhrure class and to set up sideshows for trippers. Yet, even as he goes, he will cast a long, lingering glance bchirJi him at the desolate abbey, which has witnessed the pathetic decline of the fortunes of the ancient fishing port and it 3 fantastic masque rade as a modern watering place. Tin- saintly Lady Hilda may be a name a.3 lengendary .i 3 Caedmond, and her face may never bo seen peep ing through the broken lancet windows with their delicate trace»y. but the temple en the white cliff embodies the spirit and genius of .he i Yorkshire coast. I. N. F. RS*?E FWlim Prof. John James Audncou's Qnaurtipeilj of North America. PortfoltOk'l-19 plates: clrphant c-t'tMi: published In tgl«n ib 1844. Parted condition. Inu-rwstcd T. W. FUAKEUN, 820 limdwu. N. Y. Cit*. o.