New-York tribune. [volume], June 21, 1908, Page 4, Image 21

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
4
FAMOUS AND LOVELY VALE OF CASHMERE VISITED I*Y A WORLD TRAVELLER, WHO MET WITH SOMK U}
BY TONGA AND BOAT.
A Journey Through a Romantic
Portion of India.
By Frrilrri.-L Taylor, a IVIIon of the !£•.> :I i;co-
C ra|.l.ic:i! >,». ir(> of England.
Northward be>ond the- passes ol ' ore lies
tht }.. •■ f Tibei Cat-him-r< might be called
the 1...::- i between India and that long
dosed c< mtrj • upe: iitii-n »;ios. ii\- mill
lon inhabitai ts are -i .. under th< sway <.f
Gran. La . -.
Sin< • ::.• oj i-n:ng up < : TT- t bj the expedi
tion ~< !.• by ih< British government under the
command •: <"<■,..: V. inghusband some light
of modi-r: .. ...i.>:. :...- penetrated thr^i^-h
A ROPE BRIDGE IN CASHMERE.
NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY, JUNE 21, ISOft
TYPICAL CASHMERE HOUSEBOAT ON THE JHELUM RIVER.
these ciosed doors, but, unhappily, owing to the
influence of the .Anglo-Russian agr«*r»m''nt, the
gates have clashed to again. However, very few
travellers enter Cashmere from the toilsome
northern passes of Lesser Tibet. They are
difficult even for the mountain mule to s, ale, ?o
steep and sudd- n are their numerous sharp
turiis and angles, utterly devoid of vegetation
except coarse lichen; in winter imbedded in ice
and snow, and at all seasons of tho yar wind
swept and bleak. The fertile valleys, the hills
and streams of i ashmere, lying behind this in
hospitable, r<>< '.:■_ barrier area paradise in com
parison.
Aft* r journeying across the scorching plains
of India in the close, hot carriages of the Punjab
Railway to Rawalpindi, the terminus-, I krmw
>f no mi. re refreshing experience than to ex
change there this mode of travel for the tonga,
or native coach, a cross between a bullock
\va?ron and an old-fashioned carry- all. A - c *°
wre conveyed in this tonga., its two shaggy
ponie:,- yoked to th • lont? p'de. wFiat thrilla pi r
vadtd us as we rushed belter skelter through
the narrow defiles and sharp turns of these
mountain valleys and uplands toward the Him i
layas! For romantic, varied and zmn<l s- . r < ry,
unique custom--, a ragged un>i pictures^ . i |
lution Cashmere stands alone
Arri\irig at Sri na gar and hastening r<. th<
riwr. suitable houseboats wer< selected from
am«'ii^ the numerous craft tied to th< trees on
the banks of th>- Jehlum. Within twenty-1
hours the e<iuipment of rowers, paddlers, cc<'k.
and dunga, kitchen boat, was ready for a rive
service, and our memorable journey t!.r> ■..-->. the
Vale of Cashmere began.
Passing under the antiquated triil^. < span-
RUINS OF A TEMPLE. MARTAND.
CASHMERE.
<j .
run;; the Jehlum. many strange sights were re
vealed, such as bizarre ami fantastic palaces!
Including that of the Maharajah of Jumnu nn.i
Cashmere, with its square towers, moat and
dungeonlike, walled-in inclosure of the ze
nana. North of the town is the towering hill,
or Thakti Suliman, with its conical p«\-ik
crowned with a tiny mosque. The bones of the
holy man Suliman rest within this shrine and
the faithful Mussulmans dwelling in the valley
make pilgrimages thither, usually at th. time
of the full moon. A sharp bend of the river led
us to a winding nullah, or narrow tributary. A
panorama of lovely views and green vistas sur
prised us. and as twilight approached we tied
up lor the night.
An early start next morning, ere the ray* of
the sun grew too hot. with a stiff pull up stream,
brought us to Martand. This now almost d, -
serted town, save for a few poverty stricken
villagers, was on.-.- a populous city. Th. sole
remnants of its former greatness arc th« ruins
of an ancient temple originally dedicated to the
sun. Heaps of broken and twisted pillars,
scorched by earthquake and stained by tim<\
messes of stone torn from their foundation, lie
about. The massive portico Is still standing;
also the remains of a cloister of delicately j
carved columns. The worship must have been
Buddhistic; as the carvings plainly reveal the}
benign features of Buddha and the sacred bull. :
ONE CF THE ER.'DGcS CVE
A NATIVE FAMILY OF "