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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, April 04, 1909, Image 17

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1909-04-04/ed-1/seq-17/

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Jhiu 11a- 1 Take* Heavy Toll of
./</: rmiMTOms Climbers.

■\ \;.ril X. — To take the largest
■■sty ' ' (tenant I ■ -nt tn the
• ■ .; it mountains m the
.- ■ • - ; - r.ut. nevo - | by a
; " ' plan of the
• -r the
:r in scal
ibove m :i level
' ■ the Nortli
m Seattle and make
• M ■ ' ' 4.r..T< feet, from
..ls seldom been
for the trip, and only
t i verity can
I in safety and all
: ■ to the towering summit,
• \ ithin the boundaries
Possibly the climbera
- - r Oh afountaineers.
j that ' will be an attractive
b "f the alpenstock, and thai
- ittle during the
A laska- Y;ik> >n - Pacific Ex
xtended an invitation tr> the
• ts *t all mountain climbing societies in
6 U tea to take part in the ascent
-.isi.jry of the Hoontaine* rs' Club in
Commandc in chief of the Salvation Army, in
the oowr o* a Doctor of Civil Law. conferred
on r • f the University of Oxford. His
asabtietfa birthday wili be celebrated ali over
the world this week, and will be marked by
the 'cjridation of a big international training
schco.. to be called the University of Hu
man it>.
Us four years of existence, during which two
cotable ascenti. have been made, is interesting
from a pleasure soaker's and a scientist's point
of view, for the organization contains a large
mtmb*-' •■' workers In the fields of botany and
CeaJojr and several members cf the faculty «>f
the University of Washington. Fascinating
is the story of snowcapped Rainier, monarch
of th.- Cascades, Bitting in tmpr gnable secu
rity behind its body guard of foothills and tak
ing toll in human lif< fron those irbo have
sualaai to attempt its conquest.
A few persons have reached the summit anil
returned after passing through many perilous
adventures, and thousands Dually visit the
lower slopes and view portions of the nder
ful glaciers, but only the must hardy attempt
the dizzier heights, and of those who have
started for the summit many have ii<U re
turn—'. The crevasses of the vast glaciers tell
cutely the story of the end of scores of am
bitious mountaineers who have scaled their
last summit.
From the southern side, op thr->ueh Paradise
Valley from the summer hotel at Rainier Na
tioaal Park, the ascent of Rainier involves one
well known point of danger where many climb
ers have lost their lives This is the famous
Rook of Gibraltar, a mammoth rock face, the
narrow passage around which overhangs a
leep precipice. On a dipper] d3y the climb
around Gibraltar is too dangerous to be under
taken. Yet it is this route, from L«onginire*B
£;:rings up the southern face, that was at
tempted by the earliest climbers of Rainier,
and has been gene-rally followed ever since.
At the springs are two hotels, and from th-re
the beautiful government road is being built
upward on an easy grade to Paradise VaJley,
the first stage of the ascent.
Th discovery of Rainier dates back to 1792,
when Admiral Vancouver first sailed into Puget
Sounc . n.nd perceived the wonderful snowcapped
c'jm« to the southward. In his journal of that
famous voyage of discovery practically all of
his observations of the geography of the inland
waterways he iplored are based on the direc
ti«>r.? from the great mountain. The name he
gave it was in honor of his rear admiral, Peter .
Rainier, while at the same time he named Mount
Baker after the lieutenant who first sighted that
Ejlendid etnißeaaßi
Where reclaimed city wastrels are taught to raise melons and other garden produce.
For more than fifty years no effort was made
to reach or climb Rainier. Although serving as
a friendly guide to the pioneers who went west
! ward over the Did Oregon trail. steering their
course from the early maps when the mountain
| was in view, the sacwy peak lay cure behind
rolling foothills and ice packed glaciers, untrav
olled by the fool of man. whOe weird supersti
tions of the evil spirit of the mountain kept
Indian hunters from v:-..: far up it.s wooded
slope?. The evil spirit, said the red man,
lurked in the chasms of the glaciers, riady t<~>
. drag down any hunter who dared venture up
ward in pursuit of .lir or gout, and the ••ox
periences of ventures. >me Indians who went too
high seemed to justify tlv story.
In 1557 Lieutenant a. V. Kautz. an army en
gineer, ntadr the Brst known effort to scale
Rainier. He found it impossible to get an Ind
iar: guide to lead him above the spot now called
Paradise Valley, and proceeding apward alone
he finally reached Peak Success, a small spur
.>!" •':■• main mountain on the eastern face. His
trip was full of perils, and he returned without
reaching the main summit It waa no( until
IS7O that this was accomplished. The success
ful cJhnbers were Hazard Stevens and P B.
Van Trump, and the courageous Indian 3 uiskin.
for whom a beautiful waterfall has been named
on the upper Nisqually Rivt-r. This party
started from Longmire's and accomplished the
ascent without accident. Stevens has written
an account of the trip, which contains the first
accurate data on R:iiiii^t ever npiled. Thus
was one of the highest peaks within the borders
■-f the States finally conquered eigrhty years
after its discovery: and with tn< superstitions
of Indian lore md the dangers which menaced
.•arly ezplon ■ largely removed the moui I is
now ascended annually, and the tri] can be
made with less danger to life and limb Chan the
earlier ascents . lie.it. d. Nearly every season,
however, takes toil of life from those who s«'ek
to penetrate the cloud crown of the ijestic
dome which overlooks the great Northwest
The ascent of the northern face of Rainier
has b« i en made several times, but Is not gener- ]
This industry gives employment to many needy men, and also produces an income for oth*r
charitable work.
ally undertaken because of the unsettled nature
of the regioa il>out the northern slopea, No
summer hotels are found there, and no railroad
reaches within many miles of the nearby foot
hills Many parts of the region are wholly tin
erpiored. and the thousand beauties of the -■■ it
natural i>arl:s uhi«-h lie in the lower valleys
around the mountain's base are unknown now
to the camera and the tourist. It is this coon
try that the mountaineers will penetrate- next
summer, and from here they will attack the
jrreai glacial system which surrounds Rainier,
a solid fortress of ice, and the higher ice and
snow lields that lead to the summit.
The ana amp .>f the party will be at Spray
Park. .( err-'at i pe n valley lyintj well up among
the t- •'thills at the base ..f the mountain proper.
Near by is Carbon Glacier, one of the twenty
vast streams of ice that surround the mountain
and srhich comprise one of the pr<>at<^st inland
-.•!.!• i< r systems on the continent. Thousrh not
approaching in sir.c the glaciers >f the Far
North, which reach eoastward from mountain
sses until they touch the sea. the glaciers
about Rainier have all of the characteristics of
•.':•• :. ■ Alaska They are constantly
moving downward, the forward motion being
• j: to twenty-four inches a day in
• nt i lit- measurements have
taken This is the summer movement, when
the melting ice accelerates the glacial activity.
Inter the movement continues, but more
slowly. The iverage annual movement is about
• . day. at which rate it would require
: ears for i given bit of snow falling :.t the
lof 1 .• . • • • c oft" from the moun
nd melt in the myriad streams that have
it its base. The -.-nowr-. that cov
ered K:t':.'r wlie!! Vancouver first viewed it
.■.re the?-.' to-day, -!ow!y •■•;::;i: I own ward in
massivt . g glaciers, and the water which
•• '-.\ •-■ •.-.; the mountain creeks into the rivers
.i fell U}»in Mount K-i; 1 ::- r almost
two c. rii uries ago.
it is aroui • these glaciera that
(nulinurd on fourth pier.
His Birthday To Be Celebrated in
B WO Cities.
Eighty years nsro next Saturday. April 10, Will
iam Booth was bora in a humble home ol Not
tingham, England. For sixty-five of those ■ • its
he has been giving all the strength that was in
him to the redemption trim poverty an-.l Igno
rance and vice of humanity's submerged tenth.
During the last forty-four of these years ho
has een the growth of the machixv which he
and his wife created— the Salvation Army — to
carry out this work from a handful of p.-nit^nt
Whitechapel rowdies and criminals to an organi
zation that is an active force in the life if fifty
four great countries. Now, on his eightieth
birthday, in every one of th- 8,300 cities and
towns of the world where a Salvation Army p «t
Is established. public gatherings in his h< nor will
be held and prominent men and women of all
creeds, positions and professions will join with
his followers in commemoratory exercises.
Besides this the Army will launch on thai lay
another Of the general's original philanthropic
schemes — this one in some ways the most daring
ly unusual of them all. For several years, as the
social work of the Army has grown and become
more and more essential in the life of the com
munities, the general has been facing the need
for more workers of high efficiency, especially
those with executive and specialized ability.
The Army, he decided, must train its own work-
ers, for the work required the maturing ot
exceptional faculties and knowledge of a pecußa*
kind. Tentative experiments were made in this
direction until he worked out the plan to ba
launched next week. This plan is the founding
of a University of Humanity.
The field of this institution is the world, ar.
Its espei ial purpose ia the tr.iinin^ of thoso
who are willing to enter the service of the racO
on the side of social reform and the Army's
ttneatal work. In this last department
then? will be i course In nursing, engineering,
architecture; bookkeeping and literary composi
tion—all •>: a character likely to b<> of practical
value in >istiii»; the Army's work <>f uplifting
the mansna In the others the whole field of
social service will be thoroughly covered. As
General Booth himself wrote a few days ago,
•'1 would teach men and women to understand
and to leaJ effectively with those suffering from
the most terrible and crying e\ii.^ ••..! afflict
the race."
The institution is to have double headquarters,
on in L,ondon for the Old World and on*' in New
York for the Americans. It is proposed to be
gin work in New York arid in Chicago, where
the nrst branches will probably be luiilt. For
this it is estimated that $."»,I.M>.IM> will be re
quired, of which at least one million will be ap
plied to the American headquarters an I
branches. This money is to be raised by pubiia
subscription, and this is the work that the Army
will begin next Saturday in honor of the gen
eral's eightieth birthday.
It is in keeping with QeacraJ Booth's character
that at eighty years of age be should be begin
ning with all hi.-: •>!(! faith, \!C"r and enthusiasm
a new and trn at enterprise, modelled ai<<n^ prac
tically unprecedented lines.
Fifty rears ago be war. warned i>> :...- ;>hysl
nan.s not t<> altempt the worries and cares >>f A
rural pastorate and %v:'s tulu' that he would not
< oDlinuril on eighth wfc

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