New-York tribune. [volume], April 07, 1912, Page 2, Image 16

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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Evolution of Easter Finery Will Be Shown by Periods at National Museum
HARRIET LANE. FASHION'S QUEEN IN THE LATE FIFTIES.
Exhibition of Milady's Attire Will Be Enriched
by Gowns Worn by Notable American Wom?
en of Times Ranging from Colonial
Days to the Present ; nor Will Mere
Man's Garb Go Unrepresented.
THI evolutkm of the Easter finer:
Agtollca'a loveliest belles and
irons is to he illustrate?! in a C
prehenslve exhibit of coatumea im* b?
installed for the National Museum.
The enterprise was lately started n
et*enndtt?ae of Washington society won
hag?tMi by Mr.?. Julien .lames, whose <-l
ast-istanl In collecting th? wealth of
parel to be displayed is Mrs. Rose (?
verneur Hoes, great-granddiughter
President Monroe. A ball of the old )
tlonal Museum building, most of wli
exhibits are now belns; removed to the n
structure, hat? bren aeslgaed to the ?r
leutlon, which will be under th?? direct
of Dr. Walter Hough, curator of ethnolo
The exhibit will be officially known as I
"collection of period costumes," and v
set forth In a series of lltelik?' lay flcu
the varlouR styles of apparel current In I
various periods of American history, fr<
Colonial times to ihe present day.
greatest interest will be *? series of e
Mmes of American celebrities, Inclodl
the gowns worn by the w?vcr of our Pre
?lents, the court dresses which have **rai
the consorts of our ambassadors and ml
isters abroad and the beautiful cenfectio
ahlch our noted beauties have worn
tfliclal functions of great historic Impc
tance, such as those trlven In honor of L
fayette. of the Prince of Wales or
Louis Kossuth when those notables vl
Ited this country.
Masculine aR well as feminine attire w
be displayed In the serien, which will i
elude the typical dress of the civllli
Classes as ?well as the special creations d
signed for the grandees of officialdom. T!
evolution of all mann.r of eppurtenanc
to dress will be shown?typical sample?
the milliner's art of all American epoch
es well as la?e? and lingerie, fans, hea'
<)resses an?l wIks slippers and ?hoc
hosiery and glov.s. veils, cloaks, wrap
muffs, furs, parasols, handkerchiefs ai
whatever else has adorn? ?1 the human fur
in American liisioi y
SERIES OF INAUGURAL GOWNS
One of the most gorgeous features of tr
exhibit win i>e a s. i i. a ?,? inaugural ba
gowns of our various President ' wive
and th? nucleus of this collection is that <
Mrs. Taft, which she ha* just contribute)
Martha Washington will be also repri
sented by a An?- old dress of ?'inbroid?.?
muslin, the material f??r which th?' Path?
of his Country had imported especiall
from India and which was made up in thi
country under Mrs. Washington's person;;
direction. This, with the Otlgtaal kerchi?
worn with It. will be loaned to the col
lection by Mlis Nannie Randolph Heth. o
Washington, who in an accompanying plci
ure is seen wearing this historical costum?
together with earrings and a fan that be
longed to the mother of her countrv Th
collection of court gowns was started h;
Mrs. John Hays Hammond, who contrib
uted her dress worn at the coronation o
George V; Mrs. John Ha>. who presenter
not only one of her gowns but AmDassado
Hay's court cape, worn at St. James's, anc
Mrs. Hoes, who added James Monroe'?
court dress of grten velvet. In which h<
was presented to Napoleon I.
The flnst figures in the chronological or
der of the series will represent in full de.
tail the characteristic garbs of the stock?
which settled In America-the Puritan, th?
Quaker, the Dutch patroon. the Huguenot
the English cavalier, the Spaniard, each
with his good wife at his side.
GARB OF THE COLONIAL DAME.
The Colonial dame of the eighteenth cen?
tury will ba represented by a wealth of
original costumes and their accessories, al?
though In this period radical styles, both
in our colonies and In Euro?pe, changed so
seldom that a young bell? could wear her
grandmother's ball gown with propriety
and without a refitting. That was during
the flfty-y-aar reign of the l/ouls XV gown.
with Its plain, gathered, full skirt. Its ruf?
fled sleeves and Its pointed waist, low In
the neck. The exhibit will show that the
only stylish rival of this form was the
French Watteau dress, which, with Us
swelling skirts ?and weslth of lace and rib?
bons, came in the latter part of that cen?
tury. The figures dlsplsylng these quaint
?snssliuace will be adorned by heads on
which the hair appears to be drawn to.
tightly until, -?bo-it 177a. the monstron?
head'fr?--?? o' Marie Antoinette'I t.rne ear?
ried fashion? In halrdresslnp to the nppo
site extreme. Krom the first the PYencli
have given US our feminin?- fashions, while
the Bngltsh have dictated the aartorial
stybs of ..nr men.
Our Colonial hello?? will be s'iown to hav?
reigned in an age of gorgeous silks, satin?
velvets, brocades and laces, made up ovei
"hife strint- " linings. In th<- shops there
was no ready-made clothing for women.
Rven underwear was fitted t?i order by
.?-eamstre?!?.- or modiste. It was an age ol
silk and satin night gowna an?l "shifts" ol
flann<-I or Holland linen. Not until the
next century were our great?grsndmothera
to know what !>ady Chesterfield was wont
to call "those comfortable sarments whl h
we have borrowed from the oilier sex and
Which all of us wear and non?- of ua tall?
about."
HOOPS FIFTEEN FEET AROUND.
This collection "representing the eighteenth
century will toil, as history does, that e;.:ev
ly ?''olonlal dames did not darken their gar?
ment? as time's ravages increased. Nut to
I??- eclipsed by their daughters and grand?
daughters, they regaled themselves In the
brightest blues, pinks and saffrons, the
gaudiest of brocades. They sallied forth In
the most youthful "poloneses" and "trol
topeoe." boopa and panniers, the tlghteat ? .;
stay.*" and stomachers. Indeed, It would ap?
pear that In those good old times waists
were terribly lengthened by the tightest <?f
high, and cherry coloi - ?ins to bave once
been the favorite lint of those d?formera.
, Sometimes th?-y were embroidered and w.irn
outside garments which 1 am told to ?all
"chemisettes." Whole dr<?SSI?a Of those days
are often embroidered with Mowers and
Just before ??ur Revolution II '?'?a- lh? fssb?
DOLLY MADI80N IN THE EMPIRE STYLE.
ata> a. Styles changed chiefly with the
?napes of hoopa. whirl, sometime* 990**.
,;red fifteen fe?t around. There were times
when bell hoops, fan hoops or pocket hoops
were the ?age. Staye were first low, then
j ion for our belles to wear over thel.- fiocka
red cloaks, which they called their "?apu?
n?is."
It Is proposed to begin with the birth of
the Republic and group the changing ?tylea
MRS. GRANT. THE REIGN OF THE BUSTLE.
according to periods corresponding as near?
ly as possible with the ??.?linlnistratlons of
our Presidents.
After her husband hecamc President
Martha Washington no longer got import?
ed stuffs for ii? i appar. I, |.?r th. immortal
?leorg?- now laid down the law that only
home-mad- ? loth- and domestl?- product?
ahould ente, into the clothing of himself
and spoils. And this rule all succeeding
President are snppos*-d to have emulated
so far a their Inaugural raiment has been
concern- ?I.
Dress.-s worn at Washingtons inaugural
balls will be among the most Interesting
?exhibits representing the first administra?
tion, and the nucleus of this class Is a
gorgeous gown of Mrs. Robert H. IJvlng
slon. The character of the dresses worn
?at Washington's nrat inaugural ball muy
I he ji.dged by descriptions in SOena old iet
'ters. One was a "plain celestial blue satin
gown, with a white satin p<-ttlcoat"; an?
?ith.-r was "a perrlot made of gray ln?llan
taffeta, with dark stripe? of the sain? ?olor,
bavin-; two coIIhi-s, the on?- yellow and the
other white ' Sonie of th<- woiii.'ii wore
"hats a l'Kspagnob- of whit.- satin," anil a
popular headdress seems to have l?e?'n "u
pouf of gaur.e in the form of a globe." In
<b-e?l tin- < legant gowns of this period of
the Republic's birth, even as tiny app?-ar
to-day, leave small W?M?aVff at tin- criticism
sent l.3me by Mrs. John Aflame while h?-r
husband was Minister to the ?'ourt of St.
.lames'?, that Kngllsh women ?lid SOI ?Iress
as well as ours. Rut It was Mrs. John Jay
?who. wli? n her husband returneil from his
I mission to the c??urt of lyjuls XVI. brought
the new French fashions which changed
MiSS ?NELLIE GRA?NT. A LEADEP
OF FASHION WHILE HER FATHER
WAS PRESIDENT.
I the style* n .v nerlca ..i ?he . ??>-e ,.f ti
Revolution. It was her IHtle *m who ii
troduccd In Ncv "i 01 k the lirai long troi
se a fcr boys
p.pesklng of trousers, an Interesting P
rlod group m the r*cllection?one dlrectl
Collowlng the Washington period?wotil
Illustr?t.' the distinctive ?Iress of the yo\
eraliSl and Republican at the opening <
tlte nineteenth century. The Republican
borrowtni ihe ;* ?t 11 ? ?>f the French r?'v
lutlonlsts, doffed their wigs, wore tlgl
pantaloons to the calves ?>f their legs an
laced their i hoes ?with leather string)
while the Federalists adhered ??> the wls
and queues knee breeches and buckle
sh?> .-? ..i the last century, Bo it was ?
c,i-v n*atter In Ihoae 'bos to distingu?s
a ra.lic al ft001 ;> conservative
Tic ;;.c.iips .representing th?' Href ievei
i." m v. us ..| Hic 'asi rentury will mar
What might best i?.- termed the Doll) Madl
?. n period of American woman's dress, fu
that charming woman ruled as iirst lad
oi the land through the ?,?liuinistrati??ns o
II..- ?f/ldOWed .left?! sen as Well as throilgl
i hose ?if her own "Jemnt) ? "
wiiii her ?.ni.' th? delightful Efcnpir
gown, made famous in Paris by the i ? > v * i ;
R?camler and th. women of Napoleon'
court. The w.ii.'. line was now entirely <?i.
?cured, and the bodice shortened, in so.n
case;., to an Inch Th? accompanying re
production ?>f Dolly Madison's portrait rep
resent I her in such a toil? t when she \va
at the hetghl <M her gra?sa end glory.
A SINGLE UNDERGARMENT.
The Kc.vviis saved from this peri.. 1 co.rouo
rate many old letters and diurhs which tol?
how the worn? u of the period shivered il
the.se short -waiste.l. clinging walkln;
, dresses of cambric and India twill, beneat?
which were no petticoats only tight sta>>
?Uld tight underwear of lamb's wool or limn
Across their chuiilders were (lung "eottoi
cloaks" of silk. Which niilher offered not
suggested warmth. Part] ic/wm wan t*v**a
nuuv ?llaphanous. Of the fair I'llzabetii
I'atterson. who during this time mantel
.Jerome Monaparte. it was written: "'AH
the dot has worn by (he bride might have
been put In my pocket. . . Reneath m .
?In ss -?he ?ore but a single garment." This
wedding goWn, as depicted In miniature hv
Augustin, was. in fact, as abbreviated nbovv
i the waist line as that which R?caml?-r wears
in her celebrated portrait, that whkhaaows
her reclining on a couch. Some of our
grcat-f-ran Imothcr's goWM of this period
an- slashed up the side, i?-i the "?heath*
style, because the skirts were too tight f.u
convenient locomotion.
Necks were cut lower in those day? thati
; in anv otb.r period of auf history, an I
Iinicle.my woudl forbid, even In these wicked
times, auch displays o? feminine charms as
MRS. LINCOLN IN HER INAUGUR
DOWN.
I
w re made in Ameri? an drawing roomsi
inft the first d.-ialo of the last ??snturj
w.i?: a period of rouge .?n?t pearl pow
although 11 la recorded thai (?oily Mad
herself needed not these aids t?? ROT C
plexlon. whose color was seen to "?SOtM
eo." one of her state gowna had a !
train of boff velvet. ,m?l with this ihe ?
? turban of the tome hue. ornamented i
a bird ??f paradise. A letter writer
scrih?s her thUS St one of net lev.tv:
"H?tr majsst} i sppsaran?** waa h
reg.ii. dr?Ms?ad In a robs of pink m
?.rimmed ?labor?t? ly with ermine, a w]
velvet and satin turban. With nodding
tries pltmN I and ? crescent in front. :
| chain and clasp ar?>und the Srelat
wrists. "Pig here the woman thai ad*
Hi?- drcoa snd not th?- dreaa thai >-?autt
the wmnan."
CHANGES OF MONROE PERIOD
The (Igurra representing the Mon
?leriod will show 'hat black d re ase a, ea
peeially ??f vivet snd satin, nos came I
vogue; thai bodices gradual!) length?!
until the ".?ist line dropped to its nstu
level, thai skirt.? beam? lees ringing, *
Ing mor?- ?if .? etiggestlo? of :?? M;-o.??
n?-ath: that long sleeve? gained fsVOT. Il
ne?-!<s became s?|Ua?v behind and bet'"?
and thai flonnres rea.-hed th?- In ight
their glory BomstiOMS th?-re wer.- a do!
i?n ?me skirt. Mrs. Monroe vas slwsyf
fashion p'at?-. an?i her state gowns, sas
ly of the richest vlvefs. displayed her 'i
snd arma it Is sai?i that sin- one* refui
on?- Of her own relatives entrance ?o on
her levees beesuse he senltted the stn
? loti-.^s and >l!k hose adhered t?> by t
regime of JSSSSS Monroe, th.- last of I
.-oeked hats."
With the advent of the ?HiltC] A?l.u,??
I came the reign of the grOlOSHM* le?r-?
mutton sleev. short, full skirt an I giga
tic peke ??outlet. w...-!i l.is-.d thro'U
Jackson's administration sa ura?. One
ili?-se sleeves often required sa niu?-h m
terlal as an entire skirt, and cambrf'-' ''s
tenders" stuffed will, down were ivirn up?
the ?shoulders, with the result that ladles <
fashion had to edge sid.-wtse through door
There was one freak fashion distinctly
of the Jackson period. These were tr
campaign frocks of "JackSOS calico" wor
by women partisans at the time of h
??lection. Oreal medallions bearing his fea1
ires were printed int.? this cattOO, win?"
w.,.- mad.- up Into aprons as well as ?It- Ma
REIGN OF SLOPING SHOULDERS.
During these years Holly Ma<Ht""
resident in Washington, had continued ;
?llctate the styles adopt?-d by her feminin
i contemporaries, but now a new quogg 0
I fashion came to rule over ?.flloialdoni. an
this was none other than fair Holly's sWI
I c'nisin. th<- beautiful Angelica Vas Buree
, wife of President Van Hur?n's . Id?s? BOS
the preaMent'a own wife having ?lied b
1M!V At "Mttle Vsa'S" New War 1-vc- h
the White House, When ?? bride ,,f ?, ff?
weeks, ahe mad? in? dehul .is mtatresi ri
that mansion in the sccompanylnk eoOT
of her portrait painted at this time by IS?
man she is jhown at tin- hstghl SI b*t
gi?lr.? and depicts the reigning belle at Ike
pertod. Her plume?! headdress and gsM
head band, with Its pendant !? w ? I
three strande-l necklace Of pearls, with it*
p?-udant matching that upon her brOW! btl
I l"w-neck-?I bodice, dropping ?>(T Iv-r b.a'iti
? tul shoulders, with its bertha end sugat
i ? 11.ov. sleeve.??, her tightly la?-e.l WSjSl agd
I full skltt. worn when she sat for this |";'
j trait, now adorning the White Ho.is?-. mu?
have been the . nvy o? all l>- lbs who beiVU
? this vision of loveliness.
He s was the p.-rlod wh?-n l?-ng throati
! and sloping shoulders relgne?!, when fash?
? lonal le women la?-ed themselves until tli?'v'
j were hla.-k in the face, when the famlnlrI
| tlgui.- grew long waisted and trim aajgffal
? In ?lose-il'ting. tightly boned hoillccs.
The beautiful Anelka visited her 09099
i Stevenson while he was mlnlst-r at I."''-*
I don. and during h?r second vear as nil*-*
jti's? of the White House she brought hock
lllie newest European fashion--.
?CRINOLINE AND PANTALETTES.
j The mus?ums dressed figure!- dcpi'tii.'
the styles from the 'first Harrison to th"
Killnioie parted*, uuluslve. will depict taV)
advanee of erinolluc. Women now look?"'1
like bells. Kroni their poke bonnets thci".
outlines gr iduall*' expanded as th? ir pelle' ?
Ine shawls met t hoir huge cune-lik?- stdfl*
It was u pound when children wore hldeou?
pantalettes, and which was brought tO '
climax by the grotesque- seml-matsc-Jll)|J
attire adopts by disciples of Mr? BloO',K*
Rut the dresses shown In the collection?
j representing th? period beginning with 909
j adminlstration of Franklin Pierce will d'*"
I plav even -,'reater monstrosities th??* Wft<
Continued on tilth pag*