New-York tribune. [volume], July 14, 1912, Page 5, Image 57

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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SUMMER BLOUSES IN
A Variety of Simple Blouses, for Different Uses,
Neatly Made with Good "Lines," Will Prove
a Great Comfort in Warm Weather
Whether One Works or Plays.
?^Vhen an extra garment ls requirad to
freihen the wardrobe it is Invariably a
htous* TO be thorouirhly comfortable ln
tl,e (iimm'r one ahould have plenty of
biouaea of varlous typea A fresh shirt
walst on a hot day will go a long way
toward relleving the heat and oppression.
',. m.ly to the wearer. but to all thOM "'ho
x admlrlng eyes upon her.
There l? ?** certain style ln simplicity
whlch is partlcularly marked in the blouses
t tne season. Not for many a year have
' b!ou?es been as dovold of trimmlng, yet
[hPy are undenlably smart and di.tln
guifhed- Take, for InstHnce, the llttle
Mouse. of charroeuae, white charmeuse,
which is ro very popular this summer. The
best looking of these models are faahloned
wlth the kimono shoulder, the successor
of the becomlng kimono sleeve which is
still wlth 11S d-spite the rumors to the con
trary. Th-- sleeves <ire long. accordlng to
the dictates of the hour, although it can?
not bt said thal they are comfortable ln
-.. weather. Somo are Blishtiy full
?nd are gathered in a close-fittlng cuff, fln
wtth a deep frill of net falling over
th" end; others have a narrower frlll, edg
in*: the cuff at the hand and at the sldea
Por '.\ai-Kts cf thls kind the Robesplerre col?
lar ln one of its many forms is a favorlte,
and, fortunately, comfortable. Pecoratlng
the Mouse In the front ls a wlde Jabot of
some kind. Bometlmes it is a deeply | olnted
pleated frlll of the material, held ln the
centre hy a narrow band, dlscreetly em?
broidered. such as we havs llluatrated;
agaln, ths lon- polnted collar will '?
ished with a foamy caacade of lace held by
g flat black relvet bow. Exceedlngly alm
pl? is a blouse of shantung Whlch, by the
way. ls a hlghly favorsd material. Wlthout
a particle of lace. no ornamentatlon of any
)J..d exce. t the material ? t.*-.:f. Thls is one
of the Chic models of the season. The ki?
mono shoulder lends the new i
sleev.s, whlch ls flnlahed with a moderatel)
deep c.._. simply huttoncd wlth largs pearl
buttor.s of a smoky hue. The polnted col?
lar of ? Incllnation ls Jolned wlth
a flat ' ? ach eelvet. Below thls the
front fastens wlth two of th.e pearl buttOOS
MOased in the scallop m"tif lace. Tet it
falrly shouts its modlab ballmark.
SMART TAILORED BLOUSES.
Caan one of
the inoet dlstln Uv< "f the materlala cor
ralls'i fcr the tallored blouse, I. e., tbe
___twalst wlth the simplicity and eeverity
whlch we should expecl to i':nd in the cor- j
re.t a nlment of 1 suit.
BostAi sum thei
crtpe de chlne, whlch the same ?
clinglnk'. supple qualltles, making Itso'very]
Then th, rt i< satin ln tl.e tWO- .
toned avl solld colors, of whlch the first
and the taffetas In 11
. . ?? ks anil glaces sffet :
taffets i"! walsti ls ons of the
prom> ? ties for fall, an-i If
woulu be In the vanKuai-.l by all meana
'.? vourself wlth one of these 1 ?!
Wt I .itej an excellent mi*!-:,
with a v<-t of linen, hemstltched and clev
. ln Just a touch of the I
dorr.ir: i I The collar and euflfs match !
?re agnin a new note Is .
?truck. for veeta, lt ls rumored, wlll he seen
on the neweet of the fall blouses. A band
iinen. llkewise, OUtllnea the outer
-quarters si? < ra
w:\n the se\ere suits of homeapun and
h wlll be qulte the sm
thing tn tailormades thls fall, blouses of
hea\y white linen. al*o th?* unHorv hed
. ratine ami the Bcotch an.l Engllah
flannels are tremendously gixxl looking
Th"=e forelarn Jlannels come In a surprising
ljr beautiful array of colorlngs and dei
One of the features of the tailored blouse,
itrictly sjieaklng, Ls the jroke, whi h is c-i
ersliy short In the back, coming over the
> . line In front. One partlcularly ap?
pealing shlrl bas a yofes of thla type, point* ?
Sd in the front ar.d buttonlng from the e
poir.t stralght to the top of the collar. In t
8890 de mine thls deslgn ls really very e
clever. The softly polnted turn-down, deep . c
collar ls Ideally comfortable for these work* f
aoay Ehirt*, and matches the turned back i _
ruffs whlch flnlsh the short, ae w^ll aa the
long, sleevee.
In Paris, however, the long sleeve prac?
tlcally haa ouated the shorter ones. In the
blouses of linen the color note la well sound
ed, and adda a wonderfully effectlve flnlsh.
whether as a plping, or worked Into the
decoratlve acheme ln the form of embrold?
ery, collar and cuffs, buttons or merely the
"?ravat.
SHIRTS FOR SPORTING OCCA
SIONS.
The tailored blouae should not be con
fused wlth the shlrts for sporting events.
Here the flrat aim ls to be comfortable, so
t-omfortable that you can entirely forget
your clothes nnd give your attentlon to the
agMM. Still. there ls no renson why these
p?!iirts cannot be comfortable and at the
same tlmo have -.ome of the hnllmarks of
the season's fashions. To bexln with, the
shirt must be of a soft, pllable material, a
wash silk, a supple flannel, shantung,
crepon or one of the cotton stuffs. It must
l-e well cut, for lt should be loose, and a
looee srarment lnnks bunchy and clunisy lf
the lines have not been carefully studled.
BLOUSES OF FILMY SOFTNESS.
The newest material for the s-> called
lin-jrerle blouse is whlte or ecru net, the
latter belng a llttle smarter. For the fall
it ls snfd that we shall see n-rain many
walsts of net matchtni? the skirt of the
sult. They. too, reflect tho Rcneral ten
ilencv toward slmpllclty. that studled slm
pllclty whlch ls often hnrder to cmulate
than much elaboratlon. Many are tucked
and finished wlth collar an-I cuffs of a
matchlng satin. Perhaps thc note of dls
tinctip-n ia best sounded in the buttons.
Faadnatlng new buttona they nre, of erys
tal and --lass ln quecr. unuaual colorlngs
which blend dellghtfully wlth the color
scheme "f the blouse.
If you wish the very last word ln but
tona secure a set ln amber. Such a set
was used tO plve the cnlor note to a blouse
nf whlte faille which had as lts only trlm
mi-?tr a polnted pleated frill of net and
revera embroldcred ln the amber coi-.rlngs
with thi supplementary red and brown
tonep.
Pome of the newest French blouses ln
white net or tulle are glven the popular
Diagpla effect by bias folds of black net.
In addltlon to this slmple trimming of the
' hls there are oftentim<-s revers and
taba i-f the material i-f the suit. thua
brlnaglng the blouse and skirt Into complet-*>
hnrmony. Still another novel idea showa
i net walel wlth the prlnceea tuck thread
r-1 with silk cord. Such a slmple form of
? ntatlon?but very effectlve.
When net la not desired there is alwaya
cotton crepe or cotton voile to fall back
and the shecr, flne handerkerchl-f
The vogue fnr pleated effecta has
ihown its-lf \-ry consplcuously in a re
Inriported blouee of handkerchief
Moth the back and front of the
nalf-t nre flnely pl'-ated an-1 attnehed to
- .narrow yr-ke. The narrow polnted col
ar brought to tho V outllne in the front
3 flnlsh- d wlth a narrow hemstltched hem
f pink linen. a-vraln the colnr note. From
he collar the wide pleated collar e.xtends
ti an outapread fan effect. entirely cov
rtng th-; front of the blouse. Thls, too, ls
? itlln-d wlth the pink linen hem. aa are
he deep frllls llnlshing the cuffs. A elm
lar model ln the snme Importation boasts
he wld< r box pleats, three ln number. on
?Ither slde of the llttle pleated frill whlch
lutllnea the front doetna. buttoned with
(laaa buttona The shallow collar adg-ed
vith the pleated friu aoftena the v-shupedI
leeh and revea's in the front the new-.-it
OatUre of the blouse, pleated revers.
Ori tbe blo isos of a sheer material a ,
*ren< h dressmaker ahows, a? his dlstln-'
uisl.lng feature, a short klmnno sleeve. ;
ery plaln and flnished with a f-cir-lnch ?
,,T bend, hanglng atralght and loose. ns lf
. part r-f tbe siec\e. Kmm bolew thla bend
xtends a full ruffle of lace curllng around
he slde opening of the band. Here Is an j
xcellent opportunlty for the lnttoductlon |
-f color. and the most ls made of lt. In
act, if you wish to change the appearance j
t one of your llngerle or linen blousea ihe j
_
.adtm.Fmmm\\
T*"-s new stoeklng "over lace'* which is worn over a tinted or plsin stoeking
"** *?th smart elippsrs.
1 Ths hat shown here is s simple hemp, lined with a psls shade of pink snd
J'lsndsd with bscoming rosss. The suit is of cool fabric, with it a low nsck
W-\ which is particularly fstching with this style of eoat collar.
^ARIOUS MATERIALS ADAPTED TO EVERYOi
Blouse of French novelty lsce in an '
scru tint. Ths revers snd ths puffing
outlining the peplum are of aatin, mstch
ing the lace in tone. A nsrrow vslvst
belt of olive green velvet, or any color
matching the skirt, adds contrssting I
slmplest RMthOd ls by these detachable col?
lar and CUffS, faahloned from a colored '
linen. Som<* nre plaln; others are dellght
fully enhanced Wlth hand embro!d?ry To
in.ik.* them easy to detach. buttonholea ar?
worked Into ench side of th? cuff, Whlch
button on to the wrlstband of the w..lst
They are Just clever accessorles whlch help
BO wonderfully to mak.* a toilet
VARIOUS STYLES OF BLOUSES.
There are varlous wa>s to fsahlon theae
Mouaea. The rross-ovfr style ls qulte a?
popular as It haa been for several months
and ia partlcularly good for the chiffon and
.atin combinatlon. The bolero lines are alao
lu high favor. lt ls a very simple matter
to simulate IheM llnea wlth hands of lace
nr a handsome embroidered trlmmlng. FI*
chus have ma'le BUOh a hearty appeal wlth
their plctureaque and wlnsome llttle alr
that they, too, will be retalned. A fetchlng
creatlon of Ml had a flchullke nrrange
ment of sx.tln (wlde ribbon. by the way,
rould easlly be adapted for the purpose).
whlch waa veiled wlth net and edged on
either side by three tlny ruffles of lace.
Three perky llttle bows decuruted the V -
Bhaped spsce made by the flchu In the
front, and appeared agaln on the elbow
sleeves Just above the ruffle flnlsh.
For dressy blouses the nlJ-over lacea are
charmlng, whether left plaln or comblned
with net and satin. The peplum flniah is
very well llked for these lace blouaea aml
ls attraetlve when properly worn, but
never, never should a peplum of a thin
fabrlr like a lace be worn wlth a dark cloth
skirt. It would he unnecessary to even
thlnk of such a combinatlon were lt not
dlaplayed every day In the city. In our 11
luetratlons we have shown the rharms of a
lace blouse of thla type, a fascinatlng llttle
affair to wear wlth a soft satin or lingerle
skirt. The revers and puffing are of satin,
matching the ecru hue of the lace, whlle ln
the velvet belt the color of the skirt was
reflectsd.
BLOUSE AND SKIRT COMBINA
TIONS-CASSOCKS.
To brlng the blouse and ekirt together
there are vnrioua Jngenlous arrangementa.
One of the prettlest ls known by the name
of cassock. We have llluatrated one In taf
feta whlch la arranged on the surpltce
lines and ls edged wlth a ruchlng of the
material. The cassock we have plctured ls
developed ln taffeta, either in the plaln or
cliangeuble tlnta and matching In color the
skirt. Similar ones are faahloned from net
and lace, the net reflectlng the tone of the
skirt. One enchantlng model ln lace and
net owes Its effectlveneas to the long
basque back and short front, draped in
flchu faehlon.
These oassoeks are really the eucreasors
of the taffeta Jumpern, of whlch mentlon
haa been made ln a prevlous artlcle. They
add a dressy appearance to an otherwlse
plaln walst, and for thls reason are excel?
lent for the traveller, who can siip one In
a dreaa suit case and have a practically
new blouse at the end of the trip.
DRESSY BLOUSES.
For the dressy blouse chiffon la the ma?
terial par excellence, and nghtly, for lt can
be procured ln all coloringa to harmonixe
wlth the skirt, and through Ita fllmy folda
the beauty of the foundatlon can be clearly
dlscerned. We shall expect to aee thla fall
heavy laces veiled wlth chiffon, very much
ln the manner of the laat two or three sea
sona, the differenee lying tn the way the
chiffon la uaed It Ib alao comblned wlt.i
gatln and fancy allka wlth telllng effect.
THE NORFOLK JAOKET BLOUSE.
The Norfolk Jacket in one of Its modlfl
catlona hai become .ery popular wlth
sportswomen. It haa tha great advantage
of hidlng any misconnectlona with the aklrt
ln the bsck, buttona qulekly ln the front.
ls open and cool at the neck, permlts per
fect freedom of actlon and, all ln all, la
quite Ideal,
cclor note.
An effectlve walst of plaid taffata with
vest and revers of hamst'tched linen,
embroidered to match tha dominant
color of the plaid. The collar and cuffs
mstch the vsst, and tha outside of the
three-quarter sleeve Is msrked with s
band of the linen.
A cassook in taffeta, aatln, pr net,
matehing the akirt in color, joins to
oether tha skirt and the blouse of a suit.
The cassock illustrated is simply croased
in aurplice faBhion and is edged with a
ruching of the material.
Exceedingly good looking are the aim
ple blouses of satin, taffets, shantung,
voile, or linen made wlth the long ki*
mono ehoulder. The waiat shown above i
hss the dseply pointed collsr with a wlds I
pleated frilf. the centre bsnd of whioh is
smbroldered or omsmented with glaaa
buttons. The aleeve is slightly gathered
into s cuff edged wlth a frill.
Comfort in Corse
The woman who wlshes to be consld- \
emd well dreaaed wlll *tve tlme and
thouRht to the aelectlon of her cnrsets.
"Any old cnrset" wlll not do. The coroetj
Is the foundation of tl.Btume. tfol
Sreemnaker, no matter how skiiie-i she;
rn.iv be, ean k-i<e .good Hn^ t-i tba -town
f-tted over an 111 nttlng palr of corsets.
If she Is wlae she will not even attempt
the Impoaalble. but wlll demand that her
cuetomer be fltted to rorsetB becotntng to
ber flirure.
There ls no doubt cnrsets remodel the
flgure ln a truly remarknble way?lf we
wlll only give it the opportunlty Sure
Iv an artlcle of clothing wlth such won
der worklng qualltles should be selected
with care and thou-fht.
OUARD AGAINST INDISCRIMI
INATE ADVIOE
An lmportant point to remember ls that
the corset Whleh looks well in the hand ls
not neceasarlly the corset l-est adupted
to your Individual flirure. Flret ?tudy
your own flgure. Frankly admlt lts de
feots and lts good polnts. Declde upon
the features you wish to emphnslse; those
you know should be ellmtnated No one
understnnds her flgure aa well as the In?
dividual herself.
Be chary of the advlce of your frlends.
There ls no reason ln the world why the
eorset your nelRhbor lauds so enthuslas
tlcally wlll flt you. lf you know that the
corset you are wearlng ls comfortable and
beromln**, stlrk to lt; If lt ls not. atudy
its defects and hunt for a corset better
adapted to your fl-rure. The flttlng r-K>ms
of the e-cluslve corsetleres and good de?
partment stores are filled with women
who rnake lt a practlce to go from cor
actlere to corsetlere Juat because Mrs.
Jones or MrB Smlth has lnslafed that her
corset was the only one whlch would flat
ten the SbdOtven <>r reduce the Mpb, while
MrB. Jones herself Ih probably dlscardlna
the cnrset over whlch she had enthused
fnr another. recommended ln equally lav
lsh terms by .Mra. Brown.
ESSENTIALS OF A GOOD CORSET
The flrst requlslte of a satisfactory
corset is that lt shall be comforta?
ble. A corset well fltted and adapt?
ed properly to the flirure should be com?
fortable; lf lt Is not, lt has not been well
fltted. The present fashlon of wearlnn a
low busted corset wlth a brasslere is
ideaily comfortable and can be Indulged
ln t-v stout women ns well aa thelr allm
frlerids, provlded both the cnrset and the
brasslere are eelected wlth dlscretlon.
Thera are varlous corsets made tr- ald
the Btout and large woman tn her atrug
Kle for the fashlonable flgure. There are
likewise braaalerea carerully cut and
boned to take care of auperfluous flesh.
The stout woman must, ns a rule. ex
peet to open her purse Btrlmre wlder than
her more fortunate sllm sister. In the
corset, as ln the costume, the llne Is all
lmportant Study the llnes of your corset
sa you would those of your gown.
The eoraets of the comlng season wlll
not vary, but the clasaic of llnes of the
flguye wlll be kept
LIGHTLY BONED CORSETS POP?
ULAR.
There ls so much grace and agiltty glven
by these llghtly boned corsets that thelr
adherents are many. The flgure becomes
Inflnltely more supple. more aa nature ln
tended that lt ahould he. and the freedom
of movement Ib so dellghtful that few
who have experlenced lt would be wllling
to again become the slavea of the closely
boned corset. An added euppleness la pro
cured bv certain typ?a of bonlng more
flexlble than the old-fashloned steel.
FLEXIBLE MATERIAL THE DE?
MAND.
There ls the auppleneaa alao ln the cor
Bet materlals favored by fashlon. The
bstlates, coutlls snd broches aeem to be
softer and mon cllnglng than ln the days
gone by. whlle the trlcots are Ideal. Fancy
grenadlne corsets are likewise promlsed
for the fall ln the front laced as well as
tha back lastA ui.p_.l3, and U.e,. are, o__
ts and Brassieres
course. wonderfully flexlble. with Just
enough honlng to support the flgure. For
athletics nnd negllg**- purposes, when per
fect f|SSdom of actlon la desired. the cor?
sets are made from knitted fahrlce whlch
outline the ngure. yet lend it the sllght
support necessary. The corsets made
from these knitted fahrlcn have the single
undetarm steels. wlth the steels to whlch
the fastenlngs are attached ln the front.
Many of them are merely glrlles, whlle
practleally all of them have tbe glrdle or
very low husted top.
LONG CORSETS CAN BE ADAPTED.
Although the extra long skirt portlon
Is not a necesaity for many flgures, yet
the skirt should he long enough to take
rare of any superfluoua fleah whlch may
hulge out below the line of the corset.
Many of the new French corsets show the
very long corset skirt, but only those who
follow tne extreme style wlll adopt lt.
HIP CONFINERS AN INEXPEN
SIVE JOY.
To wear under the boudolr robe, when
one desires bllssful repose and comfort.
there are hlp confinera of trlcot, whlch
nre dellclously eomfy and whloh at the
same time prevent too much of an ex
poaure of the flgure With these the bras
uleres are worn Many women have adopt?
ed these hlp confinera to wear wlth their
hathlng costumes, although there are on
the market excellent bathing corsets
whlch eonflne the flgure, but do not en
case it.
There ls one advantage ln the front
laced corset whlch ls not very often con
B-dered. nnd that in the fact that It ls ob
llgatory to lace the corset each tlme lt ls
worn. I.very corset should be unlacea
b.fore lt Is put on and laced up on the
flgure as If lt were being ad.usted for
th? first time It la the only proper and
truly aatlsfiw-tory manner of wearing a
corset, vet there are hundreds of women
who laiily hook their corsets ln the
front wlthout touching the laeings In the
back. No corset can atand auch treat?
ment, nor can any one appear at her best
drCMlllf in thls way.
COMFORT IN BRASSIERES.
Both the front and the back laced cor
seta aro now cut wlth the very low bust,
as well aa the more moderate flve inches
above the walstllne. as we have already
mentloned, and both are deslgned to be
worn with the brasslcre. The brasstere
has now beoome a permanent and an im?
portant feature of the wardrohe The
brassiere makes posslble an unbroken
line from the shoulder to the walstllne,
thus ellmlnatlng the top line whlch ls so
often discernible, even ln an expentlve
and carefully fltted coreet. The moat
popular brassieres are those comblnlng
the essentlals of the corset cover and the
bust aupporter. In order to perform satls
factortly these two functlons a brassiere
has to be very well cut and fltted and
decoratlve enough to wear under a aheer
blouse.
Paris has recently sent to us some very
clever braaaleres fashloned Of heavy linen.
strong enough to hold the flgure and en
hanced wlth lace. preferably a heavy lace
like Cluny. Other brassieres are of the
allover embroidery, whlch are further
decorated wlth Inaertlon of lace. A par?
tlcularly attraetlve model la of all-pver
hand embroidery of the Madeira variety.
jt faatena in the back, preaentlng an un?
broken aurface in the front, whlch ia fur?
ther enhanced wlth a wlde hand of Cluny
lace. A almllar band aoftena the top of
the llttle garment and edges the bottom.
Aa lf to atrengthen lt a little it la llned
with net. Another practlcal, and yet
dressy brasalere ls developed ln a silk
batiste snd extends to the walstllne. The
neck Is cut aquare wlth hands of Madeira
embroidery ss an edglng. The band ot
embroidery flnishes the bottom or tha
garment across the front and back, but
slanta from the front alde aeam upward
under the arm. thua glvlng aupport where
it ta needed for a full bu-t The ende ot
the bonea are held ln place by a poeket
arrangement making lt poaalble to ouloa
ly allp them In and out. Another excellent
pattern ahows flne princess tucka above
snd below the bust section to hold tne
braaslere cloae to the flgure.
Conafant frlctlon wlll reduce flean, par?
tlcularly flabby fat. and to reduce an
over-developed bust there are brassieres
\\t silk elasUo or one oX the mao.. varie
tles of tricot, whlch have been found to
successefulty aceompllsh thelr mlsslon.
A declded novelty ln the llne of bras
sleres ls a model ln a llghtwelght black
cotton cloth fastenlng ln the front and
e<Ue,i around the ne-k wlth blaok lace.
There ls a tlnv black nat sleeve, to which
ls attached a black rubber dress shleld.
thus making a very complete and practl?
cal garment. There are dellcloue llttle
whlmsiralltles In lace and embroldery to
wear wlth evenlng frocks. The rlbbon
etraps o\er the shoulders are, as a rule,
attached wlth button and loop, so that
thev can eaally be sllpped off ln case the
ahoulder strap of the gcwn ls not auf
flciently broad to conceal them.
For every day wear there ls an excel?
lent model whlch croeses ln the front, se
curely reatramln* any tendeney of the
corset to break forth, and fastens In tlje
back. It ie a slmple, plaJn affalr, intend
ed strletly for buslness, but lt supports
the flgure admlrably Other models show
a series of small hones at the slde to hold
In the superfluous fleah, whlch hus a dls
tresslng way of bubbllng over. To be
succesaful a brasslere muat eupport the
flgure well at the aldea, not merely flatten
lt across the front
m
Variety in Hosiery
BUk Btocklngs are the chosen hosiery of
the well dressed woman. The wlse shopper,
however, selects a good quallty of allk
stocklngs, for well she knows that too
cheap a grade sltnply cannot wear. Her
more foollsh and leas wlsely gul-led sister.
thlnklng only of the allurement of the silk
stocklng. spends her drass allowance for
these cheap grades, Instead of purchasing
a .good quallty of llsle or cotton stockln-gs
whlch wlll give her good -wear. The day of
the allk stocklng at any cheap prlce ls pass?
lng. There le an ever encouraging demand
for good llsle and cotton stocklngs, par
tloularly the mercerlaed varletlea. for the
better gradee of cotton?the long, allky Sea
Island and Fgypttan cotton-are Belected
for the rrocess of mercerliatlon. Thla
proceas c.nslsta ln agivlng a sliky appear
NE'S PURSE
anec to cotton by treatlng the yarna wlth
caustlo soda.
CONCERNING TESTS AND PRICES
Among the cheap grades of slllp stock*
Ings there are many whlch are not silk at
all, tussah silk, spun silk and even wood
flbre being sold under the stamp of pure
silk. you can dlstingulsh stocklngs made
from wood flbre, for instance, By a hard
feellng in the stocking, as if it had been
knitted from a tlghtly twlated yarn. Veg.
etable silk la made from wood flbre or
from raw cotton, whlch ls converted Into
celluloae and pressed through mlnute holea
ln sheets of metal, so as to form a long,
slender fllament Artlflclal or vegetablo
silk burns like cotton?that ls, wlth prac?
tically no aah?whlle silk resembles the
wool flbre. boillng up or bubbling. formlng
a lumpy sort of aah and glvlng forth the
odor of burned halr. You can therefore by
pulltng ouf a few threads of the top of a
stocking determlne whether you are re
ccivlng the silk you are paylng for or a
cheap substltiue.
Silk ia comparatlvely cheap theae daya
selling at $3 a pound. Instead of $6 and |7,
as waa the case a few yeara ago, and there
is, therefore, no legltlmate reason why
adulteranta should be used. You can pur
chaae a silk stocking ln which a certain
amount of silk ls used, like the famlllar
boot stocking, for 50 centa. It wlll wear
falrly well, provided you a-e careful. but
you can't expect the same wear from lt as
you would from a silk stocking valued at 11.
In purchaslng an embroidered atocking you
should remember that you are paylng a
certain amount for the extra work of em?
broidery?that la for, say. $2 you are buy?
ing a stocking equivalent ln quality to a
plaln atocking retalling for $1, or, at the
moat, |1 50. There are, however, ao many
fetchlng embroidered stocklngs that we
seldom stop to thlnk of this fact. Black
and white etoeklngs are embroidered ln the
self tone, and also with dlscreet touches of
color ln the flowers. It ls a partlcularly,
eftecttve method of decorating a stocking,
whether silk or cotton.
OPENWORK STOCKINGS.
Open work stocklngs are being worn more
extenslvely than for aeveral .'years, havlng
won favor by their clever designs, many
of them being exact copies hf old laces.
It ls really remarkable how very accu
rately theae lace d?slgns can be repro
dnoed. Unless one stops and examlnes
she falls to reallse the workmanshlp whlch
ls dlsplayed ln the newest of these opon
work stocklngs. Another effective stock?
ing is the silk stocking with the lace in
sert on the ankles. It is. of course, a
very simple matter to enhance a pair of
plaln allk stocklngs by adding these lace
motlfs and Joln'.ng them wlth chaln stiteh
or an embroidery atltch of some kind.
The neweet importation whlch haa re?
celved much newspaper notorlety la the
flshnet hose. Alarmlng talea were pub
llshed of the startllng effects of thls hose.
Btartllng they are, to be sure, but not aa
realistlc as the newspaper scrlbe would
mak? us believe. for they are not In?
tended to be worn aa a atocking ore** the
bare fleah, but over a white or colored
hose. While the effect evan under theae
conditions ia ultra, lt is not altogether
unattractlve when the entlre costume il
in harmony. For several years the mor.
thoughtfully dressed women have worn two
pairs of stocklngs when they were very
Bheer.
COTTON SOLES TO PROTECT
SILK HOSE.
Colored atocklnga are aertously rlvalllng
black atocklnga thls aeason, whlle white
stocklngs are enjoylng a renewal of favor
whlch they have not had since the days of
our grandmothera. when white stocklngs
and qualnt llttle black atrapped shoes were
the correct footgear. Where the trlmmlngs
of a suit are white, the atocklnga are lu*
varlably white thls aummer, although to
the more conaervatlvs this may seem quea
tlonable taste. Even wlth tailored aulta of
a dark huo white stocklngs, aometlmes
wlth white buckskln ahoes, agaln wlth
black patent leather low shoes, are the
lataat fad. In the country there ls some
thing very qualnt and old ttmey ln these
whlto stocklngs wlth low black shoes,
finished wlth a flat ribbon bow. Unless tne
Btookings are of a flne quality of allk, how?
ever, they wlll make the anklea look larger,
and what woman doea not like to prtde her
aelf on a well turned ankle? With the natu?
ral colored 9hantungs, linens, etc, ecru col?
ored atockings are quite the neweat fancy,
alao worn wlth black low shoes.
.Vith tan (leather tone) ahoes stocklngs
of every color are worn. Shot silk stock?
lngs are the smartest whlm, long popular
wlth English women. Tho newest onea
cre very eheer ln luacloua color comblna
tlons, especially in magpie effects of two
ehadea. These eell at $3. the more heavlly
ribbed?Kngliah?at 9o a pair.
t
GARISH BOOTS
Modiflcations of the Very Oariih in
Slippers and Boota Interesting.
Just as colors ln hoslery .ave been used
with dlacretlon by the woman wlth a talent
for dreax. bo have colors ln our footgear.
Some women have adopted gayly colored
tops for their ahoea wlth an Aclat whlch car?
ried them off; othera have lmpresaed ua with
the vulgarit v of the new whlm. But one and
all have faflen captlve to the new Colonlsl
allpper, whlch was lntroduced along with
the daahlng llttle Dlrectolre coats. the Con
tlnental hats and other remindera of the
Napoleonic perlod. It la a Jaunty llttle
affair, whlch ls simply bewitchlng on the
rlght foot, a alender llttle foot with a well
arched inatep, for it boaats a broad polnted
tongue, apreadtng out over th.*- inatep. a
high heel. on the Spaniah order, and a atun
nlng bucklo?Juat such a buckle as the
more fortunate of ua have handed down
for generatlons. We copylata of to-day
select such a huekle, ln gunmetal, leather,
old sllver, or, lf we wlah to be very rasa,
rhlnestonos. Can't you see just how fas
clnatlng theae sllppera can be?
For evenlng. our satin sllppera, whether
ln black or a color to match the gown,
are brllllant with bucklea of the gllttering
rhlneatones, or cut steel. The bow knots
of rlallnum. *** **v,th brllllants. are en
tranclng as adornmenta to a dainty satin
sllpper. Still snother fancy calls for a
button of brllllants.
REMOVAL SALE
We are making preparations to move in
our new uptown location and are offerjng
UNUSUAL LOW PRICES
For June and July
Finest Imported Monogrammed
China
can be bought at a very low figurc. Ask
for the new descriptive Catalogue- Our
well equipped mail order department is at
your disposal.
THE ART CHINA IMPORT CO.
32-34 W. 20TH ST, N. V.