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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, May 10, 1914, Image 31

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Persistent link: http://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1914-05-10/ed-1/seq-31/

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In Its Simple Elegance Her Ward?
robe Is a Perfect Expression
of the Refined Woman? *
No Bizarre Effects.
Ihr blur ft//;- 4rggert?e uno tiro rrnm Mrs. Ifd*
4duo's tenet n'< i i of tef/ett isom ebett ?youll?
' ? ?ami OUt th< "lf'i <>f dry moftgg. The riu
? fet\inte of iiic htm and pint: inffria informal
dinner gatea i* Ms rsgkl It the ttULe Jepenese ro?
lar ond thr Igope?em Wattr/iu rflrrf in the hncl;
SIGNIFICANT to the woman of refinement is
trousseau of the UtSSl White House bride. Ii
careful examination of the gowns she will find
?irtiing expression of a freakish fashion, no biza
whirr.s cf a Futurist dress creator, for here the rul
btStt is good taste.
The ? I well-bfed woman ihOWS in her cloth
other appointmen's of her outward life
-t p vading note of the trousseau designed by Ku
? 'his leading American dressmaker, whose creatic
:ave always borne the distinctive accent of good taste
iuhions, fortunately found the ideas of the Pr?sider
kugruer to coincide with his. so that the result is
collection cf garments which will exercise a potent
jMusncg upon the wardrobe of the elegant woman.
01 all the hats and gowns for the officiating atter
ints at the ceremony designed by Kurzman, those of t
"ride are the r::; plest. yet the costliest, for the old poi
ice used in her wedding gown alone has greater i
"insic value than the entire trousseau of Mrs. Fram
I Sayre, her bister.
There are comparatively few gowns in the trousse
M the:: simplicity is almost severe. The sleeves a
- skirts rather long, and the girdles low ai
That Mrs. McAdoo should have chosen blue for h
? | garb ia indicative of a desire on her part
Bgpiroous and cool-looking during the ear
?Ml Blu* ig worn perhaps more than any other 01
?lor for the street. Suits of it, in serges, failles ar
?Mrdires, have been turned out of the workshops
Kinds. Vet Mrs. McAdoo chose it as the color for h
Bue travelling outfit. The travelling gown, hat ar
?fttol umbrella are of crow's beak blue, with the h<
?Bed. by a bunch of Alice blue tips and the gov?
?ihtened ^y the cadet blue of the cape worn over i
The umbrella is a masterpiece in workmanship. Tr
?it and the umbrella case are both of crow's beak bit
* faille, the handle is of a combination of wood an
Uloid ?n the same color. The celluloid top of th
""?It unscrews and the handle folds at the point c
etact with the frame, in order that it may be packe
'* suit- ,_e. but in spite of this it can be rolled s
?-'-?y that no break is visible in its entire 45-inc
r"" It ,iy be used for either sun or rain.
Hft. McAdoo's travelling suit is of the same crow'
?-?blue as her umbrella. The skirt of the three-piec
?W has a straight panel up the middle of the from
^ three graduated tunics attached above the knee;
.1 are mounted on mousseline and bound witl
*sj $i?k braid. The skirt hem is also braid-bound.
*^? short i oat is of black satin and crow's beal
'-??'dine, with black satin forming most of the bodice
?'?"?"if, the upper part of the sleeves, and blue gabar
"'?sed in the low crushed girdle, the revers, the lowei
** ?f the sleevei and an upturned bib at the back o
f*aist. Undci the coat is worn a bodice of crow'*:
-?blue mousse lin -, very loosely cut Above the waist
''* is banded with rows of fine black soutache braid
*?-* cufis are made in the same way. A white vestee,
"?thread-binding of Persian silk, relieves the bodice
'??throat With this suit, which is decidedly simple,
j McAdoo wore a close-fitting hat of crow's beak
* ?? has a slightly rolling brim that turns up at the
"c??. where us only adornment, a cluster of six small
I*?** tips, is attached.
J-* cadet blue cape, o? cheviot cloth, used as a top
.-?Kka contrasting color or trimming of any kind
^?P cruld be more convenient than this closely
?*caFf. with its long ends crossed under the bust
. **kl in front, and its high military collar, caught
? >tr*P at the throat.
j*^ McAdoo selected a white rep suit after she had
71 ?te-ided that one suit in a trousseau is enough.
.- simpti aftemooa gown of "hit?
nrpr hniuir ptoroidt i ? ?/ Is eM rogo
?/', hl ? < Of irhrijt.
l/i ?? atoAuoo i ?
lagA sstsM gobnr'ln;-- and
plgCh sff?ii 'rai'?"''""- -7""'i?
g?rai fsV) Mm *""*P '"li
M-dgJ stM s Mm '<>*?
fin, militara, < ont if
-je*?*- i ),' te oh I ri
?. it h htijh iVtir.
If Ml |f/i ? ? tAe Mtfe*
wml i hut.
.i/r*. Woo?rosB T?'fT>?'.,''-a mini plack '?' ide? ''?' '
nvl liianiiru-ic reception noten. Urs
Saure, the Uniterm of honor, iron thi (rotes '
ttalnioii pink tulle and net ovei rrene thorn* sf '-??
left, vltiih KOS diiiiln nti ?.' in pi l/tei 1/er?
?/?lrrf U'l,?')?, '?i Bf*M< Kimiiil.
It viso ?g simple and rather conventional. The coat, lil
the coat cf her blue gabardine suit, has the eftect of
blouse, with long revers buttoning ar rhe wai?rline wit
five button.?. A bias piece of material starts at the to
button and joins the hack of the coat Si the -ide-bac
seam, where it is finished by twelve buttons. The lac
of the suit ig perfectly straight, with gathers at th
waistline. A long square panel is attached under th
inverted V of tr?e belt. The sleeves are ?on?; and rathe
loose, with a 3 inch cuff, onenin?; at the bach in th
way a man's cuff docs, finishing them.
A slightly rounded yoke is at the top of the
front, with a loi'g tuni? | "hrred on to it. Behind, th'
skirt is gathered directly into the belt. The s'.-.;rr i
finished at the bottom by a stitched fold and has a 3-incl
opening i?i the middle of the back, A narrow !'?-incl
belt encircles the waistline.
With this it will be worn an equally demur?
blouse of white crepe. This blouse has a ..urnlice effee
:>rrned by the crepe's crossing in front and fasten
ing under a panel behind. The kimono-eftec* long sleeve?
end in a point over the hand 3r-.'i have ? row of twelv?*
small pearl buttons running up them toward th*e elbow
The blouse ig caught into a crushed girdle of blic!?
The wedding gown worn by Mrs. McAdoo is of ivorj
white satin, trimmed with real old point lace. The satin
bodice is cro ?cd in son draping and caught at a poml
below the shoulders. Tulle edges the V-shaped Beck
The long musketeer sleeve?, are made of tulle also, w.th
old point lace graceiuil/ draped over the right shouldet
to the lelt side ot the ?rgist, wheie )t is fastened with a
spray of orange blossoms. The lace continuas from thai
point as a borde*- to the long transparent tunic of tulle
which is CUUght into the side of ? I ?li I
The train ?a three and a half yards in length.
The bridesmaids gowr*. worn by Itite Marggrgt W'.'
son is 01 del blue tulle end net over crepe A band
of double hemstitched net forms a square eft* ? y
the neck of the bodice and serves to set off the fine
ecru net lace which forms the high collgr. The sleevea
are made with short cuffs and ruffles with long pointed
Elue ur?pe ?orms the undersk-rt gnd tunics of bluf
net, scalloped and ed?ed with narrow ruftes, are draped
over it. The overskirt is further distinguished by nar?
row tucks on both hips and by narrow double rufP.es
at the bottom. "The belt is of wide black satin ribbon,
with a painted design of cornflowers and daisies. A
French bouqtie* of roses and blue flowers is attached to
the left side O? the skirt, just underneath the upper tattj
The gown to: the mat:on of honor, worn by Mrs.
Sayre. i gg esact duplicate of the bridesmaid's now*
e.-aept that in color it is salmon pink.
The bi-idesm.?id s hat is unusually lar^e, really a pict?
ure hat of blue mahne, with the entire crown and brim
covered with black horsehair lace in a conventional
design. It is banded with black velvet ribbon, having
pointed ends, against which three small pink and blue
French bouquets are placed The facing is of blue mahne
with a 2-inch black maline flange. The hat worn by
Mrs. Sayre duplicated it in salmon pink.
Mis. Woodrow Wilson, mother of the bride, wore
a champagne embroidered chifton and lace gown, the
bodice of champagne chiffon, with a soft, full front filled
in with lace and the neck line surrounded by white
chiffon ruffles and a soft collar edged with embroidery
The sleeves are embroidered in fine Beauvgig em?
broidery reheved by a touch of cerise veining. The skirt
has a long tur.ic of champagne chiffon and champagne
allover net lace over an underskirt of chiffon and char?
meuse. Fine CgriSd veining joins the chiffon an !
of the tunic, which is longer in front and back and gradu
ItgrJ on both sides. The belt is a soft crushed one of
champagne chiffon relieved by a ruffle of black tulle.

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