New-York tribune. [volume], July 29, 1914, Page 5, Image 5

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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WOMAN'S VARIED INTERESTS
THE BOLERO-COA TEE COSTUME
It Pretenda lo Ro a Wap and Matches Some Portion of the
Skirt- -Has Sell "ont* Motif Embroidered Elbow
Sleeves and Loose Backs.
\WAY3 it ?sj a par of the
frock?the bolero-coate. Very
toe is that litie jacket
w*-.,h pretends to be a vrap. but
? actually is a bodice. ?.enera?y
? on over .-? blouse oi heerness
Of tramtparcticy. Usually, too. the
aerial match?** tie under
?rf**s Of the b.*?nd upon ne skirt
Nr*, rrtheles*-.. that is not abard and
fsst rule, l'or the charm abut pres?
ent day fashions is that thy permit
o? vagar-e-*; so long as th* vagaries
? ?? s ? an o..tte sort.
Certainly there i?- not*"*'*' what
ffttst out.i* about a costum- in dark
<*?*? c-een and chalk white rhich has
?ust -rarted for the Adiroidacks in
. . *-..*,* %vir?j .'?-. pretty gil who or
The under dres? in whits
?ergr <?.ar,rly show-? beieath the
-i straight falling v.*erdress
green re] ti nn ed ibout the
hipa It back and -ides wit! a gieeti
floss e***.bro.dered bias riffle five
inches wide, apphed flatly. Its gar?
nishing accords with that -?ordering
the bolero, which, oddly enough, is
THE ORCHID I M PETA COATEE WOHN WITH THIS WHITE
I AND CHIFFON BV3NING GOWN HAS SPLIT FRONTS.
THF LONG SASH ENDS 01* WHICH CROSS IN FRONT TO
? OFM A V DECOLLETAtE. ENCIRCLE THE SKIRT AND ARE
') IN A HUOE BO?/ OVER THF LEFT HIP.
??ed into a narrow belt de/ir.inr*
> r*?i*ved waiit ?ine and bu-klin**
?? -a "rftlte bttttM botlici ?rith
? .?? ?rontl extended in *>oints
? ?he hipv
, .* . e<tTC*J ?re tA ?-??ore'i
:f" ?bape, ?here is a hl*r*;h lannt*
".llar, rr er-,;- .; with a pair of short
' ?-?) t';r?"i h-irk iitwn ?he b'.lero'?*
V;? M /<? with fan' y ? ?*?/?*?
"ock worn with a sof' I rw -*'l.
'''Hing brimrn'd, untrimmed bl-n-k
' **? hat of r.'.o-iera^e mi/e. 's not
?be en^mhl* * ff?' h n;; OM? But
" i? not Tore ?o than a i-.o?itum* *.een
' other tr.ornin?? at the Mudow
- S?/?j?hi?rri'??',n lb?* rjsjj StSM
bo* ard evr y^/O-iy l-v-Ved BftCtMn?
??eetsAle ?,_ve i* brov/n ?*y."*d ?tjfl in
* ?;.'! wl he
- *i blue In I - banled ^
' "?'?/ ??.?'_i;'-,it ??.Vrirt m Mut 'V;l?ed
w""?e o.-niMe ?ir.d ? plain T/bite
?-"-tiste coller- murr, wid'f tlmn
Eton lad's??hat was turned back
flatly from the neck of a little coatee
m blue linen, buttoning straight from
threat to -sraiet. There arc scamles?-.
dartless fronts were loosely drawn
up from the sides under a white
buckle and wrinkled at mil part way
over the hi]
Sleeves, cut in one piece with the
jacket, fell loosely upon the arms
from the elbow and. although a band
of white batiste peeped from below
their e.i^es no one supposed the
?acker concealed a blouse. The
?oatee was also a bodice.
Potihle Rufflr*. tat ;he Tall Girl.
Rv tlvs time nearly every girl
whose early summer wardrobe in?
cluded a frock in white lace or em?
broidered 'retiste haa a silk coatee
to wear v ith it. I: '-lie skirt in
batiste is ultr.? chk it is trimmed
with double ruffle??, the upper one in
embroidery overlapping one tn plain
batiste. These ruffles ate not in
tiers, but are applied ball way down
the hips, midway of the hips and thr*
knee?;, and between ?lie knees, and ?h<
ankles showing the hem of th?
sk?r?.
7 his treatment make?, a series oi
breaks between the waist and th.
feet whi'.h delights t!ie girl who
imagines that she is too tall, ye1
would not look an ounce less slender.
Never as yet has the flatly platel
ruffle made any figure look bulky.
Wi'h one of these double ruffle trim?
med batiste ?kins is worn a coatee
in orchid taffeta, ?.'If-tone embroi?!
ere'i motifs are on the flaring el
1 ows of its narrow sleeves and on
? ' '>.i;<r>* lomers of it-, loose back,
win? Ii falls over a high girdle hold
ing in the fulness of the sides and
front'., wl?i< h ?.?or, a? ?lie waist line
Low 'ur/eil st ?entre of back an?:
fron?, the n?*i k t,\ thr, < oatee is fin
i-.h-d with a narrow l.a?is?e loilar
lym?* almost flatly upon the ?-.ilk. It
is in? onspicuou?, and the style ol the |
costume il left to the coatee or to its
accompanying white Velour hat.
whose crown is covered with white
pansics of heroic size.
raffet a ? ..:'i*<* ?rlth SI <?. r Fro *l .
Charmingly original is a ta; eta
coaiee which is most alluring when
worn with a transparent frock. The
model, which came to New York
lr.st week, has an indefinably draped
skin a;-,d lorii; sleeves in bluet chi
fon. They match the shade
tp.ffeta coatee, whose cut-in-one, very
wide elbow ileeves are drawn up to
tbe shoulders an'' iherc caught un
*? i black velvet bow.
The fronts of the jacket running
it.to short tabs, crossed and bul
tor.e.l it the waist line, show a little
: the chiffon undfrblouse. It car?
ries th.- narrowest of collars in silk,
extending flatly from the shoulders
to the bust, but standing straight
Ut :ro:n the neck's nape.
Tulle Overdress and Prplam.
Tulle of intense coloring is em?
ployed in the development of some
of the new costumes whose coatees
are in plain silk or in shot taflet,!
matching a foundation skirt *
The tulle, thickly
I forms i long overdicss or
a wide flounce, overlapped by a nar?
rower one. At limes the coatee
?.overs the waist line: ar?ain it is
girdled, and not infrequently it is ex?
tended over the hips. Occasionally
a peplum in pleated tulle is added.
Sleeves in tulle often have deep cuffs
of the silk, ?rimmed -.vi.li ball but?
tons, but they are abo seen cut off'
at the elbow and narrow frill fin?
ished.
Tulle lends itself admirably to the
fashioning of the narrow frills, whi? ';.
?re taking the place of broad, trans?
parent colla-s. They are a scant
inch and a half broad and top fin?
ished with a tiny flat edging, fine as
a spider's wen
A FAMILY
BREAKFAST.
Iced Cantaloup?.
Uncooked Cereal.
Cheese Omelet.
Potato Puffs Queen Muffin?.
Coffee.
(lieese Omelet,
For a family o? three use five
eggs, putting '.be yolks and whites
into separate dishes. Add five table
spoonfuls of milk to the yolks and
beat until smooth, then add three
level tablespoonfula of cracker meal,
salt and pepper to taste and a heap- ?
ing tablcsnoonfid of chopped stale
cheese.
Whip the whites very stiff and
fold them into the egg mixture.
Have a large frying pan ready, with
one tahlespoonful of butter and the
same quantity of lard or bacon fat.
When the grease is melted, pour in
the omelet mixture and cook over
a slow fire until it becomes firm
from the bottom up to about the
middle, then place the pan in the
oven until the top half sets. This
takes only two or three minutes.
Remove from the oven and with
a ?ake turner or spatula turn one
half over the other, press lightly
and lift onto a hot platter garnished
with parsley or flanked by thin
strips of crisp bacon.
I'nialo Paffs
These breakfast or luncheon deli?
cacies solve that always vexing cold
nashed-potato problem.
To one cupful of mashed potato
add half a cupful of milk, the yolks
of two eggs and salt and pepper to
taste. Beat the whites stiff and stir
into the potato at the last minute.
Drop spoonfuls of this mixture into
a well buttered pan and brown in a
hot oven.
(?neen Muffln?.
Cream together three teaspoon
fuls of butter and a quarter of a cup
01 granulated sugar. Stir in the
yolk of one egg and half a tup of
milk. When these are well blended,
add islowly one and one-quarter cups
of flour through which has been ?
sifted two and a half teaspoonfuls
of baking powder.
Add the beaten white of the eg*;
last. Put a generous tahlespoonful
of batter into greased muffin rings
or small cake pans and bake in a
moderate oven twenty-five minutes.
'Ibis quantity makes nine large 01
twlve small muffins.
Tomato A**pir.
One half ?an tomatoes, one half
package gelatine dissolved in one
half pint boiling water, one onion,
stalk of celery, spray of paisley, bay
leaf, fom whole ?loves, one dessert?
spoonful of granulated ?ugar. Boil
fifteen minute?; and strain. Add pep?
per and salt to taste. To seivr, cut
salmon jelly in squares, with tomato
aspi? on top.
P;iri"iiin Salad.
Cut twenty-four balls from firm
i 'I skinned apples with a vegetable
scoop. Rub them with lemon to pre
vent dial oloration. Prom a large cake
of cream cheese make twelve halls
with butter paddles, saason with
one-half teaspoonful Worcestershire
sauce, one tahlespoonful ?hopped pi
manto, one teaspoonful of ?,aii and
paprika. Seive apple*? and ?lieese
balls on ne its ol ? in? <"y oi leiiu?e
and g.niiisli with | iinento ?ut in
lam y diaries Covei will) Kreuth
fJressing. j
GOOD EXAMPLES OF THE AMERICAN MANIFESTATION OF THE LODGE.
THE ENTRANCE GATE LODGE
When Hinlt on American Country Estates Otten Used
?is Sleeping Quarters tor Servants?Not Seen
Here as Frequently as in England.
r s ?* HE American country estati
J is patterned so closely aftei
the English model, that, quit?
naturally, the details of the older cs
state : nd expression in the new.
The entrance lodge is the iletai1
which appears !ea t frequently i:i
America, possible be aise conditions
here are different. Pint ot all. the
existence of a gate lodge is apt to
imply that there is an estate of con?
siderable extent Engli h country
seats, heri' ? antiquity, oiten
consist of thousand?, of an es, and
such an estate usually has a number
of entrant es each guaidcc by a lodge.
Very few cour" - in America
are of such ma?, ? e
at the entrance of any but quite an
extensive estate may sre.-n to be
something of an anachronism.
I'roterlion from t'uriou*- Sight ?<*oi ?
And yet. on the other hand, the
entrame lodge often serves a piac
tical purpose .n America as well as
in England and is sometimes quite
necessary. With ?he growth ot giea*
country estates and with the keen in?
terest which is often felt in ?he lives
of their owners there often comes
an overwhelming desire upon the
part of ?he public to obtain a much
closer view of the residence than can
be had from the roadside In these
c'ays ot motoring almost anything
in the way of a road or a driveway
is regarded as public property and
an open gateway seems, to many, to
? o?i finite an invitation to enter. The
cwnera ot country estates can hardly
be expected to welcome a wholesale
invasion o; the motors of passing
THE PICTURESQUE LEGHORN HAT AT THE LEFT IS TRIMMED WITH TWO LARGE WATER
1,,,1-S WITH PINK AND GOLD CENTRES. I HE NEW OUTSTANDING NKCK FRILL Ob
mi ACKTUI I I IN THE CENTRE CARRIES OUT IHK FLUFFY EFFECT OF THE BLACK PA.*?
TAISIF TRIMMED WHITE SILK HAT. IHK SMALL BLACK VELVET HAT AT THE RIGHT
HA8 A BLUE STRAW BRIM AN? A RUCHE OF BLUB OSTRICH PBATHERS SET HIGH UP
Al'OUNl> THE CROWN.
sightseers, and if ?hey are to hav<
.??ly privacy, some torn: ol protection
is obviously quite necessary. Build
ing an entrance lodge for the use
of a peeper who will open the gate?
t.. tHose whose presence is desired
really seems to be a much less flag
rant breach of the rulen of what may
It* termed "public courtesy" than the
hanging up of a sign which proclaims
that the grounds are "n?> thoiough
fare." or that "trespassers will be
prosecuted."
Indirate* Irehlteetar? of ll??u*-e
Now an entrame lodge is apt to
irriect on a small scale the appear?
ance of the house whose gateway it
guards. It is usually built of the
same material and in the same gen?
era! style of architecture and, when
placed just within the gateway or
perhaps so arranged that it forms
I.i:i of the gatewa> itself, confers
dignity upon its surroundings.
Often t'?ed as Serrants' Quarter?!.
Our American lodges often serve
other purposes than that for which
they were primarily rr.tended and
which sometimes go far toward justi
lying their being built. Very otten
a lodge will be used as a dwelling
place for servants other than the
gate keeper, and in a number of in
stances such little structures arc
being used as garages where the
mechanism necessary to a garage is
cleverly concealed from sight T*./
planting tall clipped hedges or by
building walls of brick, stone or
stucco over which dinging vines may
be trained.
The pictures ?hown heie illustrate
entrance lodges which guard th<
gateways of various American coun
try homes. The lower one is ol
brick and stone and stands at ilu
entrance to "Georgian Court." th
magnificent country home of Mr. and
Mrs. George Jay Gould at Lake
wood, N. J. The Georgian archi?
tecture, in which all the building
upon the estate are planned, is in?
dicated in the tall piers of brick and
stone which stand at the gateway,
the splendid wrought iron gates
which hang between them. lust
*.*.- i t h i n the entrance is the gate lodge
itself, very accurate and correct with
its quoins of stone at the corners, it
garlands or "swags" and the columns
with Ionic capitals which support the
little po?tico.
Ledge at "I"?. Hollo? Farm."
The upper lodge, qui/e different in
character, stands at one of the gate?
ways of Fox Hollow Farm, a beau?
tiful esta'e near Rhinebeck, N. Y
One approaches this entrance to ?he
"farm" over an old stone bridge
which spans a broad and ?-biggish
river. Where the driveway turns
?brupt'y into the wooded grounds
tl'.ere is placed the most picturesque
of lodges, built of brownstone and
stucco, with a "hood" over the
doorway and green blinds at the
windows. The steep slope of the
grourd toward the water, near which
the lodge is built, makes possible a
lower story upon one side where ?
broad veranda flagged with brick
looks out upon the water.
Do You Know?
That the perforated tablespoon is
one of the modern conveniences
worth while for lifting small foods
without getting gravy, grease or
sauce with the solid7 Triple
aluminum measuring spoons come
fastened together with a ring, but
m.iy be separated if desired
K a? s?
The maid who has a place where
she may put the feather pillows in
?the sun a few hours every day will
be astonished at how they will
lighten up. It is as good as send?
ing them to be renovated and is in
: tiitely cheaper. If there are any i
snots on them mix a little dry starch ',
with a few drops of water and spread
it on thickly. When dry brush away
the starch and the stain will be gone.
Novel Gift for Brich
A WOMAN who does not con?
sider herself clever with her
needle and yet has promised
a piece of handwork tor an autumn
bride's chest has evolved a unique
and useful little gift. Having col?
lected a very complete lot of rec?
ipes from various sources this in?
genious woman has had a printer cut
her some rather handsome and thick
white paper into square sheets, the
size of an ordinary copybook. On
one side of the sheet only are pasted
these properly classiried clippings,
arranged in menus for all occasions,
formal and informal.
Two pieces of cardboard the same
size as the pages are covered with
white oilcloth with two sets of holes
punched in the back through which
are passed nickel rings such as are
used in a loose leaf blankbook. In
this way one can make additions or
alterations. The pages are num?
bered and the index is neatly com?
piled in a small library or printed
handwriting.
The outside of the cover has the
bride's monogram and the year out?
lined in silver paint, and a further air
of festivity is given by a white silk
cord passed through the rings to
hang this really practical cook book.
Brandied Fruit.
*^|-sO the wise housekeeper noth
f big is quite as satisfying sa
the knowledge that she can
prepare a delicious dessert, at th;
eleventh hour, for an unexpected
guest. Some one has come to the
rescue and invented a species of
fruit pot-pourri. It has the advant?
age of being easily prepared and re?
quires only a little thought in ad?
vance.
Secure a crock which ?**H!1 hold
two or three quarts and into it pour
a quart of brandy, then to every
pound or fraction of a pound of
carefully picked fruit add the same
weight in sugar. Stir gently into the
brandy so as not to bruise the fruit
too much, cover closely and keep in
a cool place.
When the jar is filled give one,
final stir and put it away for "??/inter
use. All fruits may be used with the
exception of melons and apples,
which would be too hard unless
cooked
This delicious concoction is served
over sponge cake and served with a
little whipped cream on the top. It
should be very cold and placed in
individual glass saucers in not too
generous portions, tu It is very rich.
If You Are Shopping
and can't find exactly what you want, rail The
Tribune Information Service, Beekman 3000,
and we will tell you WHERE TO OKI IT. Or,
If You Are in a Hurry
an?! haven't time to write US, or if you don't want
to run around in the shops on the?>e hot ?lays,
searching for any article of apparel, 'PHONE ?S,
and uc will help you otit.
THE TRIBUNE has just installed an INFOR?
MATION SERVICE, to save time and cnerpy
for v u by TELLING YOU WHERE roa can pet
ANYTHING YOU NEED, whether it he a button,
a bathing suit, a governess or a rap carpet.
This INFORMATION SERVICE will he open
to the use of TRIBUNE rea?lers from 10 a. m. to
6 p. m. daily.
WOMAN'S PAGE BINDERS
As many of the articles on this page will be con?
tinued from day to day. The Tribune, for the convenience
of those who may wish to preserve the pages, has had
made an original and unusual binder. This binder hojds
sixty single newspaper pages, and will be sold at cost,
30c, postage prepaid.
Mill ?In r?.?.|.l i.r it ?.'It PAtmWeomtm -I <ni|"?.l .-m. I.. |.? II. r l*li*MM Still fur
m.h Un- MSN Hi'l ...?.I....I-? "I III.* ?Ii.'l?? tempt ??In. I. II.r Hill. Ir?, ilr.i r|t?-i| ?n |M.
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