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WHAT A WELL GOWNFP FRENCH ACTRESS WEARS
MLLE. GABRI&LLE DORZIAT, THE ? EMOTIONAL ACTRESS, IS ...1?RE ON HER FIRST VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES, AND HER CLOTHES ARE EXPRESSIVE OF THE REFINED FRENCH WOMAN'S TASTE AS IN? TERPRETED BY FRENCH COSTUMERS-BLUE AND BLACK HER FAVORITE COLORS. fini (inri trhite, nrt blue m,'' irkiii with a rliflcrrttct, me (OMiiim-l m thi* mi'1'hiii i ?ixhntf "( faillr aUk. Yrrii annul marun '</?' *1iii>cs ulli ****?/< with ?chite In form tt- nh'irt tkirt, irhilc thr blur, fsilh <ii<j?< it moste? in tt* j?cktl ii iih long, < lust tlctcc*. WONDERFUL is the treat in store for New York's theatre goers who like also to see beautiful costumes. It will be provided bv Milt. Gabrielle Dorziat, the youngest emo? tional French actress who has ever visited America, and a player known for the exquisite subtlety and the perfect finish of her art. If you can mentally visualize a woman not taller than ire feet seven inches, and girlishly slender and in initely graceful, you will realize how charmingly Mile. Dorziat carries her clothes. A rather long, delicately chiselled nose balances an oval face, framed with light jolden brown hair matched by earnest hazel eyes. They are not dark eyes, holding brownish tones, but as i|ht as her locks, and fascinatingly shaded by dark tubes. Wears No Orn_mtnts in Hair. Formerly t,he arranged that golden brown hair in a roll, but the style _ecame so general that she abandoned it and now dresses her locks in the simplest manner. &? never decorate1; her coiffure with an aigrette, a ?tather or a bandeau. In fact, she never ac 's anything t? it. excepting a jewel?and that infrequently. So complete is Mile. Dorziat's wardrobe, both for private as well as stage wear, that a renumeration of ?everal costumes in her wardrobe will be instructive to the woman who wishes her clothes to express the best features of the creations of the famous French ateliers. Mile. Dorziat has won a reputation as one of the a>?st perfectly dressed young women in Paris; there? to?*, when word came th.t?she would appear here with William Faversham curiosity was excited as to what ?he would wear. When she was seen by the interviewer, she looked as ?hough she had stepped directly out of a frame. It *?as nearly time for luncheon, and she wore the smart **t and most individual of midday cost'-'nes of faille -Ik. \ Hin? Faille Costume. It? skirt is oi very broad marine blue stripes alternat ?l with white stripes of varying widths. Its straight -?d narrow underdress is split on one side?as are the *irts of most of her street gowns?and shows high ?typed boots carefully fitted to the ankles. Because of ?*?** high arched insteps, Mile. Dorziat affects short ?amped shoes, slightly squared at the toes, but on her ?credibly slender feet the style, abhorrent to most American women, seems the acme of elegance. On the open fronts of the blue costume's long over ?"?a the stripes of the silk run perpendicularly and l?-n with diagonally cut sides, in turn attached to a ?^??ght lined back. The effect is pleasing and indi *?*?*?. as, in fact, is everything which the recently ar r'ved French actreBS wears. , *??* second piece of the costume is a plain blue faille ??*???, whose fronts, closed just above the waist line, ?"?P? too sharply over the hips to actually cover them, ** ?? the sides merge with a back whose centre point **?* half way to the knees. A faille girdle, starting thT* th* coat s under arm. knots several inches below * *??? line at the back of the garment. ?ut not always is that girdle so placed. Sometimes f .J* dr'wn forward and knotted at front. The fluted mil of white batiste, which foam over the low rolled tyw fronts of this jacket, are typical of Mile. Dorziat. che? 1W*y* WearK * great deal oi thin white aboUt her J***1' ?nd those frills are as immaculate as are those on ner ?leeve?. **?? *>lue faille jacket hed long, close sleeves. They 6 ??t into normally placed arm eyes and were ac *?*y fitted, especially about the wrist. Otherwise *ould not wear them, for she, in common with gjj- ? ner well bred countrywomen, makes the nice \ ?w ?mall details, like wrists of sleeves and bands ?Nek?, a positive cult They realize how much these A favorite design for Mllr. Dorxiat's guau?; the. skirl r.ihibits the dratiii-iu bottom stmutattne the Zouave, superimposed on U in n iunie of Hue tulle?tulle and flexible silk* being her favorite fabriet. minor points count for in the general ensemble of the toilette. * Wears Only Blue or Black on Streel. On the street she never wears anything but blue or black. But its effect is not sombre, as usually there is much white about her costume, because of the im? maculate frills on wrists and jacket front. Mile. Dorziat's hats are from Hamird. To her it matters not at all what the millinery models of the moment may chance to be. as to them she makes no concessions. She never adopts hats made taller with trimmings or plumage, bu*. adheres firmly to the style which best suits her. Consequently, she nearly always wears on the stage and off of it flat hats, usually a phase of the Marquis. The hat worn with the white and marine faille midday costume was a blue, ribbon bound velvet tricorne, decorated with a single cocarde. Mlle. Dorziat chooses her gowns at Doucet's, but never takes any of the models. She will not accept an original gown, but with her premiere, combines :wo or more designs. While speaking of one of her afternoon frocks, she said: "Strangely enough, I've adopted the zouave skirt. I do not know whether or not I was subtly influenced by the wai." Favors the Zouave Skirt.. The maid. French- naturally, deftly exhibited a frock which could not fail to appeal to any woman of taste. Its zouave skirt, when outstretched by its elastic, does not measure more than three-quarters of a yard, doubled, and is of blue tulle over flexible cr?pe de chine as, in fact, are most of her skirts of that order. She appears to strongly favor those materials and not to , care for heavier fabrics. About the hips of the blue afternoon frock is a lattic? ing of blue jets, ending in black ball tipped irregular lengths of the blue jet, some of which drop upon the skirt to the knees, while others are shorter. The lattic? ing is partly overlapped by a surplice bodice of blue velvet, which, dropping kw at the shoulders, forms short sleeves. These lengths, crossing each other above the bust line, form a shallow V d?colletage?picot edged ?and at the sides aun to below the hips, obliterating the waist line. Her Three L.ening Wrape. Three exquisite evening wraps are in Mile. Dorziat's private wardrobe. One of these garments, a panne vel? vet of softest pink shade, is entirely bordered with feathers of a matching tone. Another wrap is of white ermine, and a companion fur garment is wholly of sable. Needless to say how well the elusive golden brown shades of the latter wrap blend with the hair of the young actrest. To enter Mile. Dorziat's hotel suite was like going into a boudoir in France, so much had her intimate be? longings transformed it. On the dressing table were all of the toilet articles in gold, and under it stood a pair of little gray suede mules. On the night stand, at the head of the bed, ticked a small clock in a jewelled caae, and the open door of the bathroom revealed s glimpse of a maize cr?pe de chine saute de-lit. About the robe's neck was a great shawl collar of fluffiest mar? abou, colored like the heart of a cantaloupe. The maid brought out a second and all black after? noon gown. Its skirt of lace veiled taffeta was swathed about the hips with a silk girdle, whose ends knot low at back or front, according to Mademoiselle's whim at S Ml I !.. I>t'i:/.l 1/ M "W. ''/ ////? '?,-, ?.// /'/.\ / /.WWW, WHAM? THIS OSE //.'"i/ /'<:/ ' / / /.'.'7 Vi Ml 'M/M/. "?" K?LUSK UK ?O/fi /.J//./'(?//'/./.'//' IS I /?/>/'. * M/ ko/./?, /??/ ?''?? ? WJ UKKKV, iy BXAC1 ' RtiPKOUl < 7/"\ (// i\ "//?/?/:/.'.*-/1 \ BRWAlHi ?? I beautiful creation is /'"? dinner poten from thi* Frene actress's Kardrobe. rh< under-dress of <hiffon-veilc silrer-rmbroideml Inn is almost covered bit Hi' Qtei tk4ri of ??Inrbto<tut,,i ottoman sill.-, itself girdled nit silver hmeadrd black silk. the moment of adjusting it. Its transparent bodice i: a good example of the sort which she most affects io demi-toilettes. There is a high corselet with bretelle of silk, veiled with lace; the sleeves also are of lace finished at the wrist with the familiar frill of plain net Three tiny jet buttons, fastening the sleeves smoothlj about the wrists, are at the inner side of the arm, when such closings always are scr nowadays. Chooses Opal Coieringt for ll?ening ,'lollie?. For evenings. Mile. Do-?iat rather affects gowns ol creamy or creamy-white, and she likes opal colorings One creation is wholly of opalescent sequines. But she does not despise silver?if it is very white and clear? and artfully blended with another tone. Exquisite indeed is a dinner gown whose underdresi of chiffon-veiled silver-embroidered lace is all but cov? ered by an overskirt. draped in a gracefully indefinite manner, of silver brocadel white Ottoman silk. At the sides, just below the hips it front, a part of this drapery squares itself sharply and extends about half way across the back. At the opposite side it drops into a cascade merging vaguely with a centre pointed back. The girdle of silver brocaded black Ottoman silk comes low over the hips, and runs diagonally across the front of the figure to the left armpit, thence making a straight line descent almost to the normal waist. It overlaps a filmy bodice of folded pink tulle veiled with silver edged white tulle, and there are silver edged pink tulle sleeves, which veil the inner side of the arms to the elbow and almost reveal their entire outer side because drawn up toward the shoulder. A Blue Steemer Costume. When Mile. Dorziat landed in New York she wore a costume of her favorite blue shade. This steamer frock?a marine serge?has a narrow underskirt, a straight, long overskirt, swathed twice about the hips with a self girdle, and a rather severely plain bodice, whose neck is turned back with a wide collar of white organdie. A tiny bow of organdie joins the ends of the collar at the throat. Who but o Frenchwoman would have thought of having that material for a bow, and any save a Frenchwoman mij/ht have forgotten the or? gandie cuffs turning back the long, moderately narrow sleevec of the waist. Be ture that she wore a Marquis hat, though it was not mentioned. She favors separate fur sets?neckpiece and muff?in pelt, to accord with her different costumes. There is one set of white fox which must greatly become her. This youngest ?ai French emotional actresses to visit America says?and few New York women will con? tradict her, especially after seeing her stage clothes? that Paris represents the lulmination of good taste and elegance; that it is tjie rendezvous for royalty; that after the present 'var its couturiers' designs will be better than ever. Mile. Dorziar looks neitfler stage worn nor world worn, although she has been acting for eleven years. Immediately after her debut, at Brussels, she made a five years' contract with the Gymnase, Paris. During her engagement there she appeared in "The Return of Jerusalem." by Maurice Dor.nay. After the termination of the Gymnase contract, she was engaged for different productions at the Vaudeville Theatre. The Ath?n?e, Porte St. Martin and Nouvel-Ambigu. "Belle Madame Affecting tin \i*trm*U but a? brat tutted in her tup*; \lllr. OorzM <*'/;*? fultu vorritt 0*1 fia ?fmplidlf ait icrll 1st this tteamer frock <if term in blue, her fwwsrUu color. Ormtu?ie form? tin cuff?, cottar, tu? tutu turn ? nllitr's finiithitiq huir. Hebert," "Cha?ne Anglaise," "La Plus Amoureuse" and "L'Escalade" are some o? the notable plays in which she has appeared, but her favorite roles were in 'The Kreutzer Sonata," "Samson" and "Les Eclaireuses." Last winter she played in "The Hawk," a play by Francis de Croisset, witn Coquelin and Andr? Br?l?. She is enthusiastic about Mr. Faversham in the r?le of the Hawk, because she considers that he has the histrionic talent and type to do it perfectly. During a tour of South America, four years ago, with a twenty- , two play repertoire, she appeared at Buenos Ayres, Montevideo. San Pablo and Rio Janeiro. Within the past year she has appeared at the Garrick Theatrt, London, in Henri de Rothschild's "Cresus." Wear? Dark Gray When Kidin-*.' Although a hard student of her art?as every con? scientious actress continues to be to the end of her career?Mile. Dorziat does not deny herself relaxation? frojTi her work. She is very fond of outdoor sports and has a passion for horses. But for this American ?n gagement she would now be following the hounds in England, as she customarily does during September-, . In winter, also?whenever she can spare the time for it?she goes to England to hunt. Easy to imagine how well she looks when mounted. That she is charming im equestrienne garb is proved by a most attractive photo- , graph taken from a portrait painted by Sauber, the English artist. As represented in that picture, sh* wears a dark gray riding habit, relieved by a red car? nation boutonni?re. At either side of her is a whit? hound, wearing a blue collar, harmonizing with a rug. THE STREET HAT. Where last year hats were popularly of black, in the autumn showings one may note this year a profusien of colored hats and trimmings. Sand color?the new shade, a soft, ?rayish tan?is delicate and pretty for the more formal occasion. Midnight and marine blue also make smart headgear. Watermelon pink feather? ings, maroon velvets and other tones of the darker reds find varied uses on autumn millinery. In beet-red is the smart street hat, designed by Audette. Made of wool bedford, it was a small turban, conservative in all but color, for the narrow brim rolled but slightly on each side. A bedford band en? circling the moderately high crown was fastened by a self-buckle. A New (olor In Near Ked. A pretty canotier, a recent importation, was of that dark color which is midway between maroon and purple, and is looked upon favorably foi the coming season. Two small curled ostrich feathers, slightly shaded, were perched at the edge of the gracefully curved brim, and turn slightly over the edge. Rich and quietly subdued was the aspect of the hat. Another red hat seen at a recent exhibition was of a peculiar shape. The wide, gently upcurling brim was deeply scalloped at the edge and bound in gros-grained ribbon. Similar ribbon encircled the round low crown, fastening at the side in a plain, long ended bow. Ex? cept for the ribbon, this large, garnet, upturned sailor was untrimmed. A Sand-Colored Keboux Model. As feminine and fluffy in appearance as the garnet was severe, is the beautiful sand-color canotier of Re boux. The uoper brim was concealed by a ring of similarly colored ostrich and marabou feathers, form? ing a large, artistic swirl at the left side. A trifle in front of this festoon were two or three flowers and their foliage, in an opalescent pearl finish that seemed to reflect and add to the color of the rest of the hat. One exceptionally smart Reboux turban in black satin had two wisps of white peacock around the upper edge of the sloping, long crown, and another shooting . up abruptly a* the front side. 1 ?