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WOMAN'S VA?I ED INTERESTS
BRAID EMBROIDERIES NEW.
Fine Braids Form Most of the Decoration On Cloth Frocks
for Winter Wear. Quality of These Trimmings
More Important Than Their Quantity.
m 0 FINK is the braid with ivhich
bfloth fraeks for winter are em?
broidered that the decoration
??ok?, almost as smooth as the closest
ti handwor-. This form of garnishing,
-jrerned by quality i-ather than by
?eanttty. is applied in novel ways. And
lwavs %vi-ere \'. will be most effective.
Ike least observing pair of eye* could
. -,;; t0 i... four groupa of
i which they are turned back in such a
i way that the points stand a trifle out
from the sleeve in a curious and fas?
Braid Embroidered Irisets.
line braid embroidery is cleverly
mingled with rote broadcloth insets on
an imported model in blue gabardine.
Where i? crosses the shoulder-? the
A BLUE SERGE FROCK ADORNED WITH PETUNIA BRAID EM
BROIDERV ON THE ARMS AND ON THE SKIRT, STARTING
FROM THE SIDES.
?petunia braid embroidery on the blue !
?erge frock illustrated. Broad baini*.
in scrolls and leaf.-? of petunia braid
tmbroider tialf the space between the
tlbow and tne too <?f the sleeves of a
bodice uho-i- wide, flat collar run? un?
der a cru-ti (,-irdle of dull petunia blue
thstisge-b!,' -ilk. Scarcely any of tins
prdle -tomes above the waist-line at
front. From the aide, however, where
't runs under sections forming the
mrrowent of coat effect.?-, it i? lifted to
*r?ss the back. There its lower edge
is at the normal waist-line and its up
P*f one u high as that of an empire
I'rdle. In front the broad ribbon is
drawn far down to meet the upper and
"?trsieh? edge of h triangle of petunia
*mbroidery on either hip.
Dips to Sharp Point Between Feet.
This threadlike braiding is the only
?"?raining on a nkirt which is the latest
-??pressi-jn of its ela^s, as well as one
**' the mo-l graceful. A seam runs
?-own the length of the skirt in front,
*liere it dips bharply at centre, making
? decided point between the feet. At
!*>e sides, where it is ehirred to the
*-*nd, the up-slant of the point frankly
"fcows the ankle?*. Across the back it
11 *?f normal length and straightness.
"hile there really in nothing in the
?hghtest degree immodest about this
?'ft, H is sometimes imposed upon a
't'sight and narrow underdress of
**tin in black or the shade of the
etcth- whichever will make it most in
Other attractive feature? of this
?'?'d-tmbroidered frock are it? white
?Mia. _nd cuffs. The collar, rolling
-iiiHt the nape, turna itself into
'?"-like points below the ear?.
?roat it runs into mere threads.
"-paroled by fully three inch.i,
1,1 the sides of a tiny square d?colle
*?* ?hose lower line is emphasized
?tratid? ut tiny vari-colored rice
*?*** run through* ?lit? worked in the
I *'-**"*" tr'""K,t,s ?f w,l'!e batiste make
W th-"* !>Ulr 'wn*e*t M,,e l!i ?PPlled
*? ****** edge of the wrist, over
braiding, in broad and flat vine pattern
rum to the edge of a standing collur
From the shoulders it makes a straigh
line to the base of the hips, where th?
two-thirds basque to which it belong)
comes over a skirt pleated only at th?
sidrs. Kxcepting for the braid em
broidery, the back of the basque i*
plain. Its front is broken by a neck
scarf of broad black ribbon. This
passed about a high-standing wing col?
lur of the gabardine, is joined below
the bust and runs under a large square
tab cut in one with the worsted ma?
terial. Below this tab ornamented
with two small black satin buttons at
the ends of long buttonholes?the
1 scarf end? fall to below the waist.
Braiding Produces Bolero Effect.
Fine gold thread embroidery is
mingled with black braiding on a black
f?lle frock. Here the design in scrolls
and conventionalized foliage produces
a bolero effect in front. The simulated
coatee comes low on the shoulders, as
though partly dropping from them, and
at the waist -because of the blousing
of the bodice under the arms- touches
the top of an exaggeratedly wide gir?
dle. Incidentally, it may be said, this
girdle starts at the normal waistline,
and al) around it is drawn low over the
This treatment is accorded to various
simple models among the late importa?
tions, and so arranged a belt greatly
becomes certain figures. At the back
of the faille model, the blaek braid aad
tine gold braid embroidery, crosses the
shoulders in the effect of a deep collar
or a short cape?whichever the ob?
server may choose to consider it.
Collera Na Longer Fhsre, but "Spring.
Because the majority of the collars
on the late models arc tall at the back
and a great many of them high at the
sides, a word ab ?ut separate neckwear
is interesting. Moat of these accesso?
ries in white organdie or linen are
shaped to spring out not flare a
trifle from the throat and to fit snugly I
i o its ba?e. They have two-loop bows i
'and band ties of black faille ribbon, j
New Points Touch the Heels
at the Back's
TIME was when skirts of evening
dresses could truthfully be called
round. That term no longer can
, be applied to all of them, because cer?
tain late models have backs which run
to a centre point. And very definitely,
\ too, as the skirt, cut to flare generously
? about the feet, falls of its own weight
into a point touching the floor be?
tween the heel- of the : lippers. An
I enchanting example of this new digre;:
i sion in skirts is seen in a model of
j black and gold brocailr. Pitting
i smoothly about the hips, it gradually
! acquires an unusual width. This, how?
ever, shows chiefly at the back, for the
front of the skirt is veiled by a gold
fringed black lulle tablier. From the
rear, the folds of this ethcrcalucd
"apron." showing at either side, make
gauzy black lines which bring into
strong relief the point-dropping back.
Words weakly describe the fascinating
??ay in ?rhirli this neweal among skirts
floats about the feet yet away from
them and the lovely line?* which it
lends to the figure fiom the waist
Contrastingly slender is the bodice,
a Moyen-Age of the brocade joined
across the shoulders with straps of
black tulle trimmed with double rows
of jet beads. Similar rows bund the
bodice where it ends on the hips aid
a single ornament comej between the
straps at the base of its decollctage,
"The Mermaid Frock" with Ils Jel
Scaled, Close-Kitting Bodice.
Less definite. \et fur from round
cut, i? the rear point of another skirt.
The underdreaa of pale rose satin is
veiled to the nkles with sheerest black
lace over white lace. These two ti liny lay?
ers, though gatheicd to the waistband
and falling in loose folds at front and
back, HP.? held flHtly against the sides
of the figure as far as the knees by jet
straps. From iht sides these straps
look like continuations of a Moyen-Age
bodice of jet scales, whose extremely ,
low d?colletage is je! strap-joined
across the shoulders. So closely does !
this corselet cling to the figure that
the creation has been happily named
."The Mermaid Krock." An objection I
made to these scale-covered bodices is
that the jets seem likely to diop off.
As a matter of fact they are very se?
curely attached and of such thin, flex?
ible texture that they bend instead of
The Tablier in High r'a-or ?gain.
The tendency to veil biocaded silks
and satins has gone fur toward re?
storing the popularity of the tablier.
One notable model among dancing
gown:, with a train so long that it mas
be swung over the arm. is of silver and
blue brocade. Its circular skirt, while of
equal length at front ami sides, shows a
slight catch-up just below either hip.
This draping scheme draws back the'
front, which looks darker than th
back because veiled by a full lengt
tablier of blue net. Its lower edge i
finished with an Inch wide strip of sil
ver braid to accord with the top edg
of a scarf in matching material. Thi
length of gauze forms sleeves - of sort
for a corselet-basque of the brocad
which closes in front under an im
mense rose of cerise satin.
(iauzy Tulle Forms So-Called Slee-ts
Although detachable, this .carf add
so much grace to the costume that i
would be a pity ever to discard it
Rrought high against the neck at thi
back, its silver braid edge is caught \,
the front end of the silver braid shoul
der straps of the bodice. Thus an
formed wing-like arm veilings or semi
sleeves which at the back merge intt
a cape whose long point is slip-knotte?.
at the base of the hips. The manner ir
which the scarf floats out from th?
sides of the figure above the waistline
is balanced by the flowing appearance
of the net tablier. While both section??
of gauze veil the brocade, they by no
means destroy the simple lines of bod?
ice and skirt. They give, moreover, a
suggestion of youth to a gown which
without the lighter material to subdue
its gold figuring, might be too splendid
for any save a matron of stately pres?
ence and of great dignity.
Black Velvet Panels Separate Shim?
mering Satin and Jet.
Flat jets placed to form a moire ef?
fect, border the long, straight tunic of
a black satin evening gown. The shim?
mer of satin an?l jet in this garment is
separated at both sides by a panel of
black velvet which makes a long line
exactly where it is most needed by
many a woman who has eaten well but
THE NEW COATS PRESAGE MORE THAN COMFORTABLE
WARMTH FOR WINTER DAYS. LIKE THIS MODEL IN STRIPED
BLACK AND WHITE VELVET. THEY GUARD THE NECK, BAND
THE BOTTOM AND CUFFS WITH FUR. HERE RACCOON IS
USED. BLACK VELVET BANDS OUTLINE THE FRONT AND
FORM THE DOWNWARD SLOPING BELT.
HERE IS THE SIMPLE TYPE OF SUNROOM FOUND MOST PRACTICABLE FOR USE AS A
LOUNGING ROOM. IT HAS A LARGE BRICK FIREPLACE AND LONG. UNCURTAINED WIN?
THE LATTICE-WORK AND FOUNTAIN CONTRIBUTE TO THE
OUTDOOR EFFECT OBTAINED INDOORS IN THIS RATHER
The Piazza, Latticed and Decorated, Becomes as Useful in
Winter as on Summer's Fair Days.
Some Suitable Furnishings.
FORMERLY the piaste was u*
only in the wann periods
summer, and only when the s
ecre clear, for though shaded by a
ingl it was too damp for comforl
ciiilly or fogp-y days, and a rainsti
drove every one indoors until the si
To-day the inclosed piazza, usui
termed s sun room, may be used at i
and all time*.
These sun rooms may he of
simplest description or as ?labor?t
luxurious as one wishes. Tin* s
room, to be useful to the entire hou
I old ami it.- ' ?siting friends, should
Incited on ?ho first floor and raised I
bright of only a single step from 1
garden in order to strengthen the aei
ut "being out of doors."
Brightly Tiled Flours.
The floor should he cmcrcil ari
tile:;, either red or green: white
cream tiles are too easily soiled,
tiics arc no! possible because of tin
expense, a good cement floor is qui
as serviceable, if not as attractive, ai
is us eaail) cleaned. Kugs an the He?
although an attractive color clone
and -comfortable to the feet, tak?- aw;
some of th ? out-of-door atmosphei
??ml make it .-uni more of an indo?
If nigS mtisl be used lit Ihi'in be <
grass or ham boo.
The artificial lighting, too. for evei
Ing use should come either from
ringle fixture set in the ceiling or froi
1'imns on the tables for rending, To
much light in such a room is destru?
tivc to the necessary and delightfi
feeling of space.
A splendid lighling effect is obtain?*
Ly concealing the electric lamps in
cove at the angle of the wall and ceil
ing, and by ?eflection on the whit
plaster of the latter to throw a sof
gh'W over the entire room without hav?
ing any bright spot catch the eye.
Barrel Vaulted Celling.
Two types of sun room are illustra*
ed. A simple room with a brick tire
place on one side, and on the othei
three sides wide glazed sash, uncur
l_ined. This room has a cement flooi
and a barrel vaulted ceiling, from the
| centre of which hangs a single fixture
lor the lights. The furniture is of
v> illow or rattan, with pretty cretonne
upholstery. Fasy chairs predominate
and in one corner a swinging seat of
the same material is hung from the
Flowers and growing plants are al?
most an essential element of th? at?
tractions of a ?un room, und they may
be set in pots and vases along the w ide
' window ledge or on tables here and
there or even on the floor, for its tiled
or cement surface will not be injured
in any way by the dampness 01 by the
The open lire is doubly attractive on
| a cool evening when it is too warm to
Iirw its cheer ?ndeers, ami in the
parly morning v. Iu?n breakfast is served
Cheerful Latticed Windows.
The second illustration shows a more
elaborate sun room, where the illusion
of out-of-door i.te is helped by a ce- ,
ment basin that stands in the centre of
the room and out of which .??pringa a
small jet of water which falls with
gentle splash into the basin. The use ,
of lattice work add-? to the decorative
effect, anal here the doors arc set in
frames of lattice, which are glazed as ?
well as the aloors themselves. These
lattice screens may bo set againat the i
window i?Ih--s in the long ?-ash, or the
?-ash il ?elf may be latticed and the ,
-?las sol directly into it. The former
can be more easily kept clean, as the
-.i-h may be upc.icd and the glas?;
cleansed, while with the .-mall pane* '
it la always difficult to clean the cor?
Simple. ColorfM I I urnisliings.
The mu? room may be arranged on
the second Hour as well as un the ftrst, I
?? ii h certain advantage?, auch as a more
extended view of the landscape and
freedom from the intrusion of the un
expected guest. This is a great aal- !
vantage on a summer day when it is '
not comfortable to dregs lor observa?
tion and "Inn some important matters
mu?: be finished.
Amona: the furnishings for the sun
room the '?' heeled tea table is found to
be almost indispensable, for the service
from the pantry mut I??- through the
house, n most instances, and if this !
table eun b?> fitted completely before
it is wheeled in many steps will be
Let the furnishings be simple an-J
the fabrics used for uphoistery ser
vicable in ?luaiity ami gay in color. I
Silks and plushes do not lend them- '
selves to out-of-door u,e, while cre?
tonnes and linen can be cleaned readily.
Quiet, subdued colora are not so at?
tractive r.s the brighter green? and
red.? and yellows.
Do You Know?
IN PRYING tish, instead of dipping
it m egg. then in the line bread
crumbs, dip the tish in good olive oil,
then the crumbs, and it will better re?
tain its flavor and also fry more
te te ?*.
ASIMPLE preventive from staining
hardwood sideboards or bureau
tops that are apt to have things
spilled on them that take off the var?
nish is to put a piece of white blotting
paper under the covers.
9. a*. H
I Y ANY jam on hand happens to be?
come hard and sugary, melt it in
the oven and then let it harden again,
and it will be all right fear further use.
MISS EDWARDS-FICKEN TO WED.
Old New York Society Represented in Alliance Jua1
Announced with Great-Great-Nephew of
the Hero of Bunker Hill.
H. Edwards-Ficken, of 7 East 8th M..1
announces the engagement of his
daughter, Miss Marger. Edwards
Ficken, to William B. Prescott, son of
Mrs. Linzce Prescott, of Boston. Miss
Edwards-Ficken's mother was a Hub- :
bard, daughter of the old Xew York
merchant and a niece of the late Mrs.
Joseph Marie. Her father is an archi?
tect and is widely known here as a!
yachtsman, horseman and former ama- !
teur champion athlete. Mr. Prescott.
who is a graduate of Harvard, is a.
great-nephew of the historian Prescott.
Hia great-great-unele was Colonel Pres?
cott, the patriot who was in command '
at Bunker Hill.
No date has been set for the wed?
ding. Misa Edwards-Fieken is at pres?
ent at her father's country place, at
Huntington, Long Island.
Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt, jr.. .
turned to the city y.-sterday from New.
port, ? here she spent t'-ie summer.
Mr. and Mr?. William Luwrence
Green, who were ai. Har Harbor for Au?
gust and the early part of this month.
have gone to White Sulphur Springs,
W. V'a., for a few weeks.
Mr. and Mrs. Paul Tuckerman arrived
in town yesterday from Lenox.
Mr. and Mrs. Percy Hall Jennings!
will return from Cold Spring Harbor,
Long Island, November 1.
IK: Tetegrapfc t? l '?.? Tribun?
Southampton. Sept. 23. Mrs. Walter
Cutting mid her daughter. Miaa Ju?
liana Cutting, are entertaining Mr
Walter Mayo Cutting, of Norfolk.
Mr. and Mrs. K. M. Bycrs closed their
cottage in First Neck to-day, return
ing to Pittsburgh.
Miss Eleanor Lawrence and Miss Jo?
sephine Nicoll are guest? of Miss
Louise Trevor at Meadov mere.
Mrs. Henry G. Trevor lias returned
after a visit to Mrs. I, M. Bomcr at
Miss Frances Br?ese i. the gue?t of i
her sister-in-law, Mrs. Sydney L. ;
Mr. and Mrs. Howard Townsend are I
at Hopeland. their cottage on the
Dunes. They will remain here for the
Mrs. Fairfax S. Landstieet is enter- j
taining Miss Genevi?ve Brooks.
Dr. L. A. Sternson and Miss Con?
stance Sternson returned to New York
to-day after spending the summer at
?their cottage on Shinnecock Hills.
i ? a?-?
In the Berkshires.
re?? ^ .mh ?o ti.<- Tribun?
Lenox. Sept. 23. Mr. and Mrs. Rob?
ert W. Patcrson had many guests at
Blantyre to-night, where they gave a
dinner for Mr. and Mrs. Henry F. Cook,
Mr. and Mrs. S. Parkman Shaw gave
a luncheon at Redwood this afternoon,
entertaining Mr. and Mrs. Richard C.
Dixey. Mr. and Mrs. David Lydig, Mr I
and Mrs. James B. Ludlow, Mrs. Ross j
W. Whistler Mrs.,Francis C. Barlow.
Miss Nancy Craig Wharton an?l Miss
Miaa Helen Audenricd. of Philadel?
phia, entertained Mr. and Mrs. Will- |
iam Fitter, Mrs. Charles H. Howell.
Miss Beatrice Howell, Miss Irene
Cramp and Miss Helen Coates, of Phil?
adelphia, at dinner at th?? Hotel A.'pin- I
Charles Lanier gave a dinner party
at Allen Winden to-night.
Mrs. *G?'oi'ge Grisvvold Haven was
hostess at luncheon at Sunnycroft this
Mrs. Francis C, Huntington has ar?
rived in Stockbridge to visit the Misaei
Helen C. and Virginia Butler.
Mrs. Boylston Adams Beale, Mr?.
Gordon Abbott and Miss Caroline Lee.
of Boston, are visiting Mrs. Robb Be
Peyster Tytus at her Tyringhain villa.
Mr. and Mrs. V'rancis Ludlow Ogden,
of New York, and Mr. and ?Mrs. G???l
frey Dunscomb, of New Haven, arrived
At Briarcliff Lodge.
Mr. and Mrs. Chauncey M. Depe?v hih)
Mrs. Dc pew's sister. Baroness von
Andre, are at Briarcliff Lo?lgc for the
Mrs. J. Stewart White has returned
from Europe and is at Briarclitf
Lodge. She is entertaining Miss Marie
Young, Mrs. \V. I. Kat?>n ami Miss Mary
Tatum, of Paris.
Dr. and Mrs. J. B. Clemens and fam?
ily have closed then* cottag?? at Spring
Mr. and Mrs. Stuart I). Preston, wh?
were married at Good (?round, Loaf
Island, September 10, are spendin'
their honeymoon in Canada. They ar?
now at the Chateau Frontenac, Quebec
Mrs. Preston is a daughter of Mr. an?t
Mrs. Morgan J. O'Brien.
Mr. and Mrs. Frederick 0. Bead*
who were at Dark Harbor. Me., for th?
summer, will spend the winter at th<
Mrs. William? A. M. Burden has a*?'?*
to Stockbridge, Mass., from Newport.
Mrs. Arthur Carroll has gone te
White Sulphur Springs, W. Va., for 4
Mrs. Richard Cambnll is at the Col?
tis Hotel, Lenox, for a ??h?rt stay.
Mrs. Roger M. Mmlurn. who spent
the greater part of the summer at Bay
Shore, Lone Island, will ?jo to New
Haven, Conn., early next month to vlsil
her hrother-in la?v ami sister, Dr. and
Mr- Harold S. Arnold.
Mrs. Schuylcr Van Rcnsselacr ha?
arrived at the Creenbrier. White 8ol?
phur Spring:, where she will remain
until the middle of next month.
Lispenard Stewart haa returned t?
the city from ?Newport
Clive Livingston Duval has arrived
?n the city from Lenox.
Lake and are at the Lodge for the fall
Now pert. Sept, 2 '?. Two luncheon?
and a dinner were on Ihe social pro?
gramme? hi re to da; . I'he dinner was
given to-night by '?Irs. .lame? Lauren a
Van Alen, a' Wakchurst, and the
luncheon entertainers were Mrs. J. J.
Wysong, at her summer home, Grey
stone, and Mrs. Prank Ta\!or Kvans, at
the naval training station, prior to
the weekiy battalion drill.
Another of tlie summer homes was
closed to-day, Mrs. AIe\ander J. (a -
satt, ??ho, with her granddaughter,
Mist Lois H. Cassatt, ha.- been oc?
cupying Stone Acre, goinij to Philadel?
phia for the winter.
Mr. and Mrs. Charles J, Livirgood
have closed Scacroft, m Middletown,
and Mrs. Livingooal is a gue?t of Mrs
Thomas J. Lmery, while Mr. Livingoo?!
goes to Cincinnati with their daughters
Mr. and Mrs. Pembroke Jones are
| back from a New York visit. Mrs.
Charles S. Whitman also has returned
to her lummer home from New York.
Mi. and Mrs. Lawrence L. Caillespie
are not to close thoar season until the
middle of the coming month. Misa
Fanny L. Johnson will keep her Bellc
'?uo av. home open until November.
Mr. and Mrs. ?liarles Frederick Hoff?
man are closing their season here on
Saturday and returning to N(?w York.
In the White Mountains.
!?*?-' T-!e-,-r,- il.une. I
Bretton Woods, N. 11, Sept. 23.-Mr.
and Mrs. IL l?. Stafford, of New York,
are spending their honeymoon at the
W, J. Boardman. ..f Washington, ha?
arrived at the Mount Washington,
where h's daught? r. Misa Mabel Board?
man may join him later.
[?.ear-Admiral H. C. (?. Colby and Mr.
Colby ami Mr. and Mr... C. K. Cotting
have arrived at the Mount Wa-hington
General and Mr . I-rank Thorp, of
Washington, are al the Helle?, ue Inter?
Congreasman K. H. I'ngg?., of New
York, climbed Mount Stickney, at Br.t
ton Woods, to-day.
Senator and Mrs. ?liarle.? Casgrain,
of Detroit, are giving a hou??? party at
the Knoll, t-Vhitefleld.
Mr. and Mrs. Charles I Bonaparte
, are ai the Mountain View House nt
Mr. ami *? 11 . Cordon Korbes, aW New
York, are at the Mount Washington
Mrs. Brail'ord Norman. Bradford
Norman, jr.. and Mi-, Katharine Sands
arrived at the Mount Washington by
motor fr. m Newport to-day fora abort
.?Ii?. Frederick Keep, of ?Aashington,
join.-,I friends al Mr. (ton \*. ooda,
I ?all UollKN ?Ml ?,IKI ?..
MUKMN?;. ?. I I I UN- " >N a lAKNINO
KKI i;i.\ll<>> < KM HI. ?.\M.V\?IIM
<>l I 111. V U. < . \.
:i Me?? m at, i>i Hr?unt n*aX
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