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IWDIVroUAOTY m CLOTHES TS I FASfr >>? NOW
With Styles of All Periods to Select Frotr?, the Women Who Achieve Distinct? ive Attire Are Those Who Dress to Their Type. NEVER before has there been so much scope for the expression of individual taste in clothes as there has been this year. Truly it may br. said of woman to-day that ?-he is no stove to fashion. In? versely, she has made fashion her slave. She may wear what she will, may use any of the many varying and opposing suggestions offeted by creators of fashions and mould them to her own taste, stature and per? sonality. All that history and all nations have taught is in ready alignment for her choice and for her ac? ceptance. Woman is tairly put to it to express her own per? sonality, with the rich offerings of all types in raiment be'ore her. She no longer dresses fashionably. That il i term which to-day means nothing in itself. Where fashion may define a straight, loose dress and an elaborately draped one. a full circular skirt, a severe narrow and a yoked and a pleated one equally well. one may easily see that another adjective is needed to dehne the well dressed woman. r'mpha?.?/?.?Not Disguise?One's Peraonality, It is not the approved cut of the garment or the popular material that f.ivcs the gown its indefinible air of utter correctness. It nu.st express the personality of the wearer. She has before her a wide range of garments, from severely simple, almost masculine at? tire, to the daintiest and rrost mysteriously incompre? hensible costumes of femininity. She must choose her type. It is fairly criminal not to, for gowns are merely waiting for tenants to give life and meaning to their structure. It is not enough to select a gown that is pretty, popular in style or even just becoming. One must decide whether or no that particular gown echoes a phase of the wearer's personality. "When I enter a shop." exclaimed one woman who was arrayed in gloriously satisfactory manner, "I look for a gown that looks like me. Any on- can find plenty of nice and pretty frochs. But when one look. at a garment and finds that it is what one has been desiring, that it expresses one's own individuality, one sighs with wholesome satisfaction. Every woman who but takes the trouble to search out her particular gown will look and actually ieel infinitely bette?" than the woman of the past decade, who dressed modishly, without regard to'her type."' If all women but kne-v how important the element of personality is in drcs -.. if they but realized how much their clothes will bt taken as indications of chsracter. they would not leave the selection of it to unconscious reactions, but would put definite study and thought into the matter. Her Tailored Sail r,"\pre?.?ed One Phase. Illustrative of this point is the costuming of an attractive young girl, whose personality is possessed of the two phases expressed by the gown and suit of her choice. Slim and of medium height, her glinting brown hair and big. gray-greer eye?, her perfect little nose and upcurved lipa seemed to hint at delightful contradictions. One saw cemureness in her feature;-. delicacy and humor. Smartly and erectly she carried herself, and eminently suited to her seemed the tailored blue serge suit in which sh.* ?vas clad when she entered one of the fashionable New York couturiers' establish? ments. The coat of the suit was short in front and curving r <?/ i II i/,' i// '. '. \\U V.I/I / Ni 1/ ?* W > 1/ //'/.' / ?Oil V. it /// Mil /.??/ /' . 1 . /: ' \ COS 1 /.'. //"x / MBKOI?H m u si \ie11 <n si ) eoi'i'ii . ii is - / i/;/11 m,i > vi? ni h in o h \ i i \ i i - mu i /?/ um is i in- ,n"i in a / .',; r ? // l \i in > i \ i//.' H HOLLY 1/ <?/ - i \ /? ? ??/ ?./.?/ /? \ ET, \\ 11 il i i/.'?,/ /:/ i? A i \ u i.m h oi I -I; ' /; > / /// SKL\K AI mi: VK.IIS. THIS ir.li.A7.Vr7 SlIT, Willi ITS SHOUT, SEMI IITTISt, JACKET I.V/J SHOUT. LOOSE OXEUSh/UI OE sfHIW-COLOUKH BUOAIi CLOTH, l- i.ii li.M l.ViJ HEM I'UK. ALMOST III MOUOVs Is III! I'l \'IM, "I VOCKETH n\ THIS VO 12 OF I Hi: I if-', WO. from a button above the waist line, and just an inch above the bottom of the ccat was a narrow self-cord? ing, which, as the coat curved rapidly down toward th ? hips and back fell less rapidly, and the widening dis? tance resolved itself into i flounce of the scantiest ful? ness. A narrow, high collai of fox and narrow cuffs of the fur were the only bit of trimming on the suit, which expressed dignity and simple serviceableness. The skirt was chaiming and a bit out of ihe or? dinary. A very wide yoke, straight all around, was gathered in slightly by two cordings, and was topped by a very narrow serge oelt. From the yoke the skirt proper fell in. loosely but not strikingly widely. Conservative and bespeaking the modern, capable young woman was this suit and the canotier of black velvet with which it was worn. A small, round, evenly clipped black ostrich projected from one side and gave the hat a dc?ght?ul touch of pertness. i"el H't Evening (,?.?n Was Quite ;is Characteristic. But absurdly opposite in character was the nile green cr?pe de chine gown, whicii at once attracted her eye and imbued her with an incontrovertible desire to possess. This gown vas as quaint and demure and as utterly removed from the modern work-a-day world =is any of the numerous gowns displayed in the shop Although moyen-age gown:, are to be found wherever the best in habiliment is seen, still this one seemed most completely to have captured the utterly innocent, ?guileless and sweetly patient air of the meek maiden of the Middle Ages. As th^ enthusiastic purchaser held it up to herselt contemplatively, years seemed to vanish, her brisk, active and colorful personality faded into .. mystic and paie Burne-J mesism. i h a-n Is Her Nature I ruii (?niiplrx? It was not that one :;own was true to her and the other false, but that both brought into relief a definite phase. The simple lines of the gentle crepe di.- chine, melting loosely irom the high, narrow girdle of dull gold lace, which also outlined the surplice which just failed of meeting above the gird'e, emphasized the more truly leminine and the gentler side of this crctremely interesting young woman. The back of the skirt had a broad gold lace edged parul reaching from the very much raised waist line to t>c Lottom of the skirt, where it turned under, and surprisingly was iound to be part of the skirt itseil. \ a-ry graceful and ingenious re the drapings this rason. often in manifola' layers. Underskirts are curiously caught up on on.- side and covered with lace that lulls over the hips, tl at in turn being veiled by the sheerest of lace or tulle, which is at once a part ol the shoulder decoration and a skirt's rutfle. Innumerable .re the devices lor giving the .loudy rita-., t .at the b.n k o? th. gown, which ' .'Metis su niSTiSCTIVK l\ llil'l Is I'll- JMiVJ. /:/ * r l II m U hi: I \l\ I in. M ?"?? I STRAIGHT VERTICAL US'E.S 1,7/. MDCKIlli It) CURVED HORIZOSTM. IV/J CROe?SI\f, /./v/;.s. PICTURE8QI E, TOO, /> //// /;/.'/ iA f.VG UP OF THE WHITE II l/>TCO.tr. delicately the outline as vieved from the front. Often severe in the front of the bodice and stiffly girdled. nevertheless all harshness is brushed away by the filminess of the net or lace that hangs from the shoul? ders, from the central point of high or low decolletage in back, or is even brought back over the sleeves from the front, to hang voluminously over the rear of the gown A long, full scarf fastened to one shoulder mav be used carelessly as a scarf, or may fall its full length to the ground as a frothy veil. Oddly and most admirably did the exquisite black lace overskirt curve up in back to the shoulders, and counteract the hard outline of a beautiful Doeuillet model, just imported. Of striking individuality was this gown, o? most exacting cuirass effect. Entirely of sequins was the bodice, a glittering piece of armor, in queerly mingling, blendinj and blurring shades of gray and grays faintly touched, with shades o? rose and green, the whole effect being of silvery and brown shades somewhat akin to those found in the black opal matrix, in lighter shades. Glittering and brave was this cuirass, which had for shoulder straps two strings of jet beads. Tiny black net sleeves helped soften the brilliant effect of the sequins. Has Om ?<l the Few Trains in Ki irlen??? This Year. The curious and triumphantly artistic skirt had a satin foundation of a color that was neither mauve nor rose, and yet suggested both. A broad band of gray fox fur was about the jottom of the skirt, which fell at the back in a sudden, pointed trai.i. Trains are not very much in evidence this yea., except on the most formal of court gowns, for it has been found that the trainlcss gown is infinitely more convenient for dancing. The popular dance admits of none of the formerly ta vored cumbersome appendages, and Fashion has sanc? tioned the word of utility and pleasuie. Over the satin underskirt was one of beautifully figured sheer gold lace thai fell below the knees, fairly full all around, and over this, falling from under the cuirass, was the beautiful black !ace that all but cov? ered the gold, and in back was caught up between the shoulders, hanging in a profuse but delicate cloud al? most to the ground. From the left side front to the left side back were hung two loosely failing chains oj black beads that echoed the shouiuer straps. Metallic (loth of Brilliant Richness. O great popularity is the metallic cloth, that is >.o beautiful, so rich and brilliant and yet may be used with such simple effects. In a gray ilver metallic gown, whose bodice s of the surplice order, winch uurplice is enlarged to l'orm a crossing girdle that ties low in back on the skirt, the only embellishment? if one might ?.all it that?was the double undet showing under the loose tr.r.K, which stopped midway The Personality of the Wear Must Be fcxpressed-Anrj an Easy Task It Is with the Varied Raiment Offered This Season. between the ankles and the knees. This underdr was of gold net veiled by black net. On a silver metallic gown, whose full, loose si in the rear is caught up from the bottom and carr to the opposite shoulder, and srhoss ?* it ?vi and beautifully draped in one piece, seemingly, w the fanciful skirt, the only color and ornamentation the single pink rose ?Ar-hich catches the bodice when t'.-inea and is draped to form the girdle. Qoteaj tl are seen to have simplicity as well as the extreme eh or.ateness frequentl" in evidence, but it is in the evi ing wrap3 that one's fondest dreams o? luxurious? and richness may he fulfilled. The e wraps are made in the most exr, materials that a ?eason repiete in rich fabrics can off In shape they are full and regally unstU<Ue<l, alm< roluptUOttS in the completeness of their splendor, i beautiful brocades, turquoise with i den fto crs. velvets If unbelievable softness, of metallic clotj ??quins, and all triumphantly furred. GorgMBS Wrap nf **|ilittt\ < ulnriil Baajaias The most fanciful and barbaricaily beautirul ?,?: the wraps seen this year was one which was made entire if Sphinx colored sequins that glittered h mockii mystery, as incomprehensible in color and lustre the great being iTom which this very dark gray toe ' name, for in this wrap the ligh? blue /elvet linit was here and there reflecte?! by the sequins where tl !? ht broke through. The collar and cuffs were of gr. fox, and the wrap was worr almost as one * it might be drawn about one loosely or snugly, an fell into rich and ever varying fo The linings of these loose wraps, which are drap? et', which fold over and which are of semi-translucer material, are necessarily of great importance. In fac th*y are no longer mere linings?they are ?ietir.ite poi tions of the garment. As in a most beautiful wrap o ^ great individuality and charm, the lining plays an im portant part in the colori/ation of the costume. ?sv^ Paaei < ?i.iiri'd Liaiag Kellerlerl h> Metall*. ( loih. VV In this wrap, of a pecuharly soft cloth-of-. j\l peach colored lining shone through and was caught uj ?.y md reacted by the metallic cioth, which fell in rief1 y full folds from the shoulders. A very wide border ? ' the bottom of the coat curved up slightly in front and down in back. The bo-der of the sleeves. doubled back, opened toward the back and continuel as the border of the cape, which covered the entire bad of the cloak to the feet and only betrayed its identity? a cape when the arm was raised. 4 !?)??? for ?strctM \V?';ir Nu |.ons?er xi?n Although the cape, of meteoric popularity in the early spring, has nearly died out for ordinary usage. still it has remained, because of its extreme ui-Tfu'ne&s. in the evening cape. One will see it, too, in the mor: cijborate fur ? ich will be either 'rankly cap.". cr will have large and small cape collars, and the loose it overcoat which clo?e'y resembles ? the rear. It is found, besides, in the separate co;;. used for outings, for motor;.??; and for afternoon wear. These have the Napoleonic cape very often and hive various other manifestation*; of the cape idea. A beautiful evening jape seen recently was of the darkest of sage ^teen chiffon velvets. It , trom the neck, right down tc th- bottom, more thar. way below the knees, where it was handed deep'y with Kolinsky 'ur. A low. square collar was of this S darkly ruh brown fui. The cape was m three sections?that is to say, it had three ?ridtll t bottom, shirred into a self-cording it the I |K the waistline and the knee- i * c 1 > ' "' '?'"' ??'? HEcti . , i'iti't i \i: ??, i/\ is HEHl HAlM'll-l > f l\eu in iv iiturm i.\u ,. HA\h th uosEitrns ruo\i LVD fMt'A- y IHECI U llll ,?,.,... ? u ,,;,?, |i -.../. EALt.lMi OIEU HIE* HI \\i < lili I "^ 'W' /:/ ' / ',//.'/?/ r; i.> / \t'ELLl \T.