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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, December 19, 1914, Image 7

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Four of the First Spring' Suit Models
froin Paris Dressuna?lers Are
Here Presented. gg
PIQU?N gives us this odd model in cerise
gabardine. His jacket, emitting the yoke, is
very much like the one offered by Premet?
there is the same flaring, pleated fulness be?
low the waist, which is repeated again in the bell
shaped skirt. Daringly incongruous is the trimming
down the side front of heavy cerise-colored tassels.
The self color is repeated in the stitching at the
?ide?, but a bit of color relief is contributed by the
flat gold embossed buttons on the bell-shaped sleeves.
PREMET presents this model in fine white
cloth. All the artistry of cut is confined to
the yoked neck and sleeve, and from thus head?
ing the jacket flares out a la kimono, indi?
cating the waist line only by a tucking in of the ful?
ness, which immediately ripples out wider than be?
fore. The skirt eschews the full bottom, and in its
stead is offered a flaring tunic, starting at the front's
sides. Blue, black and gold embroidered ornaments
as fastenings, a white moire collar and black moire
tie form the only bit of foreign color.
CALLO i hac here tried to compromise, to
give us the old line of narrow skirt with
a more than full tunic, the old vest effect
with the addition of a new fulness below
the waist line, and to contribute in addition, a bullet
effect obtained through bra;ded loops and button^
: the same shade a3 th3t of the suit's cloth, pearl
gray. Small diamonds are inset in the buttons on
the cream colored moire vest, and the high half collar
used in nearly all the new models is in this in?
stance of black velvet.
CHERUIT offers this military street frock.
And the martial note he has struck so vivid?
ly in this model other of the French dress?
makers show traces of in their creations.
Chcruit has taken the aeroplane arrows and, making
them of black silk, panelled the frock with them and
cut jet button*, continuing the effect in the side
pocket flaps. The whole costume, of hne navy blue
gabardine, is bound in black mohair braid, the skirt
flaring out widely from beneath a swashbuckling
heavy black satin girdle.
Shop Offerina's in Cushions
IS IT a warlike pillow, the Zeppelin?
N'ot:..r.g could be further from the
purpose of this big, soft, luxurious
mi handsomely designed cushion
ihape?long, round and narrowing to
the ends?was perhaps suggested by
that dreaded engine, but its silken
cord:ngs, its flowered tapestries and its
gold tastelt suggest merely the boudoir
and comfort.
They are very beautiful, brocaded, as
?as the one seen at a well known shop
recently. It was banded at intervale by
Wu? ve'.vet ihbringe, embellished with
???-?, silver lace and ?tassel at each
narrow?d mi. The work on this
??tien wa- | and each detail
*m in perfect tast?. The price of this
Zepp?; i wk. j
Ant- aosnyolia ?vaa in rose
fcpestry, with two strips of gold lace,
<?"'? | by beautiful har.d
*ork*d flower?. I'rice, $35.
Aoiioir teu are desirable, and most
?Woing effects are produced, for one
finds a cushion matched to one of thof
dainty Fr?nch paper baskets, brocad
and gold lace, flowers and ,-;old cord
giving a splendid richness to the whob
One finds remarkable coucn throws an
a cushion to adorn chair or floor, mad
to match, or there is s desk ?et o
brocade and a cushion, and sometime
the set includes the desk articles, thi
trash basket and the cushion.
A charming set was of silk-iini?h ere
tonne in beautiful red snd indeter
minste colored flowered effect. The ma
terisl was of auch rare quality that ?ne
wondered whether it was a tapestry, ai
embroidered silk or s velvet. The
cushion was of the type which might
r-eem an outgrowth of the Zeppelin
? not known as the precursor. It
was a bolster, lone, narrow and cylin?
drical. A band in the centre of the
cretonne was "{old braid bandet!, and
the remainder of the cushion was black
velvet, with another single band, and
! rolrl tassels at the blunt round ends.
'tr price it'll ?.-> su. i ne urn? ???, ^
the accustomed nurrber of pieces, wa
in this delightful material, as was thi
square waste ba-kvt. The price of thi
desk set was $10 95, and that of tht
basket wa-4 $*> '.'5.
Fiffuretl Silk Couch Throw and Cushion
A v?-ry elaborate eat w-as one that in?
cluded the couch throw ir.il cushion
part of the throw was i? i
. beaetifellj .1 a ti lea ami
gfl in Cray and blur.
of blue velvet ai 1 ai
| exquisite rutile of lace. The pr.vc <?.
' this magnificent piece was $175. Th"
itching. Bras ?freight a? the
BO and rounded on top, like a
halved circle. Price, $7...
One la always In search of boudoir
novelties articles which, made in ne*
nays, ?errs old purposes, or which
if unknown utilities or e\. ? ?
?"lephone II
foi tan known a? the
? ? .
imp and be:
or roae lined boaket for the gloves,
veil and so on. The price of this was
, ?I'll BO.
The Wardrobe's Content for the Trip South
TO WOHIN who are going South '
for the tret time the question
of drtsa it often s purzle, and
?* *'???.- OSO at that To have too
??h? things ar.d none of them just
r*ht is more than trying.
A young woman who makes a trip
??ery year adviaes the inex- '
Periecced to take all of their good
?*?kin| evening gowns and pretty sum
*?r dr?- ?V ?he averag?
??!. though tvernr.g dress i? correct a??d
k>s?ral!y worn, many women free.
1 ? r ' I street rosturnes, with
hats and shoes matching the- ?uit.
?Ugk-i ( oloreO Top f oat a Net ??a it jr.
"?rbaps next in .mpor'anct is a light
???orH Cf Mk\\* topcoat .,? ulster. It
????old not be too heavy, as the WOStheT
?? r-ev*r vu-, rold H can be made le
*? serv,c? !',r a wrap worn ?.?-r even
to? dratiir?, ,f or.? rjo? ?ot h??r
*?*? a smart y i fur
tr.mni?.d garmmt for this purn .
A >??f?j| powa i? the -itgim dar*
>??? serge or silk ros??jm?. This natu
"?Jly will b? a eoesbinatioa of possibly
?**? |tr*s. blaah satin and a fc.ai.U |
girdle or a wsistcost of some smart
1 ?at in or corded silk,
?owns need the touch of ?hit?
or ?cru embroidery or lsce s? a neck
afthei in flat collsr or ruff.
A psir or two of high white buckskin
shoea and one pair of pumps and a pair
of the outing canvas or buckskin, rub?
ber soled Oxford? are ?ore to be needed
if one wears white at al!. A pair tf
black satin slippers and one of white
?atm for light evening costume?,
by all mean?, ht included in the ward?
robe.. Heavy white ribbed silk stock?
ings or the soft cream whit* woollin
hose an ' .-irrer' 'hing to I ear with
?porting aft
A white felt hat of the latest block
or a smart I'nnama or Leghorn **ith
the ?everely tailored triiiiniing will
a con?'sr:t sourc? of comfort; in
fact, a hat of this nature is a necessity
if one lingers long in the South. Uni?
r?n buy Panama and imitation ?trawx
m the retort shop?, but it is far wiir
to go away equipped with a smart white
(hapiau different from those worn by
, lite artrage tournU ?
The needs of the wardrobe <T
' ' "
M SOS whoa oie is most comf1
in linen or pique shirts and thin uhi'.e
? A white wool
Norfolk coat or a white silk sweater
should be ready for any sudden coci?
. sisters at a resort last winter
had a reputation for their correct
iffected a blue and
.n and the other a
?tnd white. They were
their tailored I
tme, soft dart
ami brown ?'? ' : hrowa
heav) toehlnga,
hatbat i.osen colors, and
ribbed iilh foor-in-haod ties. With
their davtirne clothe?, unless they wore
all white, they u sd the blue and
brOWa color ?ch?me.
( olored Kaline and trepe Is Worn.
i ,nr aeed >?"'? cont.ru- one's ele
altogether, as there are rharm
mg colored ratine?, linens and
iala tha?
?j ),,. | cri m draeos - * .th the
ilored leath.-r or heavy sill
,,, ,??!? effects kr?? Wi
?rhite en pe, silk or hai
fruc'aS loi thl
Ifag little CUtawajl ?"at? ot incss-alinc
or kmu crinkled cxuie.
LattuM Salad Tro* on Bond
To the
gra'. I
Chriatma? dinner a
the family. " tl Bt is
ii ces , ?HI hri'-2
af the tray
in the place of the usual portions which
??ary eyes.
inly an invalid can realize the joy
i of seeing a whole piece of roast beef
? carved, or the scanning of ? whole tur?
key or fowl, reah/'ng one can
the extra tit-bit BBC t refer?.
the everlasting samples of -
Bet a sala :
I es a Chi
|ht out
to the ;1 as ,0 th??
eye, "I was made for you alone," will
I bring much Joy to the stay-abed.
For the Brat consideration it is well
'to consult the attending physician be
. fore making the menu, so that there
ma- be bo boert-breehiaf dem.t
'to Hi **? ;nv"1"1'
rae? ?agn ?
And it
?.pie menu
may hi ?*? ******* thc
FrOOUd < ifa /?? ?? ? '
run and Candied Cherrut.
mu?' r>ni for that
The edge of the tray may he deco
? garland of green ?
? h a bit of cherry
t.ich the orange
1 ' | ? in the in I
ual dinner
ing while i ? them?
A plump squab or )
en, sin
lise the turhey. The
ir as a star in the
? ttoes. and any
?rill appre
ef one
covered wit
tfa the greens, on
?a hieb
for Christ
\err% h Hy Star.
? y of table silver and
? that everything re
quired will -, and, again, the
? tor.
bear a sprig of
;? par
. with a Sllii .- and a jelly
star on the white ?'
Par the salad there is a tree of crisp
lettuce leaves, through winch is thrust
itained uitl brawn gravy or
beef juice i av ? ? ink. This
is support?.I by two
?ng of nut >
viayannaise. All through th
SB the lea-.
kbloa, such as f
?o form a vegetal Is salad, or, if
,i truit ?alail n preferred, bits <>i apple,
I celery may
famish the decorations of the tree
French or mayonnaise dr
rved separately ami the tilling
eouUSai from las bread.
?^ ^*-w
/ ?'?(.' I l Calca
' ils.
Por dessert there ?i ? pretty oblong
tod a th two
taf -hane
i n :i the
"-veil on a
doily. Or, tead, ne can b?
rournl - i, Ite icing a
The candy eandle l? -haped to a point
m the end until
meltt ; | y. and then a bit of
oran?1? froal :'..r the flame. A
rod Bras ca?*?Ale may be set in a
-vaxed paper cone in the .entre of the
? I -.d the candle lighted when
?h? cake appear?, before the delighted
I-or ee cream, try
of the quar'er -
.? It can be frozen
? can, or :t may b"
packeii "|i.r;.''',y m a pan or pail with
ice and alt T often used
1:1 boapitala. Cut red maraschino cher- '
i half and decorate around the
or nuts halved may be used in '
.- mode Cat a star from plum
cake, or -orne fl ble cake if
preferred, and then cut out a circle in
'.!! of which result? in cake
anil cream in one serving easy for the
If ice cream is not allowed the in?
valid, a mo? manee or fa
may be m., le. with tl ? ' I -cooped out
for currant or grape jelly, which is
placed in star form on the top.
The Tribune
Information Service
Telephone Beekman 3000
T F WE can be of any service to you in
locating something difficult to find for
a Christmas gift, we will deem it a
privilege to aid you. Our facilities for this
work are unusual, insuring prompt and
satisfactory results. No fee.
Hours 10 A. M. to 6 P. M.
Save Time, Trouble, Expense
Mrs. John Porter. Whose Dream Caused Needles at Black
well's to Click, Issues Appeal?English ?'ield
Force Fund Seeks Aid?Relief Plans Grow.
Mrs. John Porter, of Mo- I
*ai wan heralded ves'erday R<
woman whose dream starte.1.
well's Island prisoner?, kl
' out an appeal for mo:..
on the work. The $130 which bo
the first supply of wool and knit
needles was raised a!
'he league for Political EdS
The story of how the idea of pr
knitting bees or::.- . told ;
terday. A group of Monte! -
were talking over their knitting
afternoon, when some one
that e\en in India the students w
knitting for the soldiers. Tiiut ni
one of the women had a dream,
which she saw the prisoners on Bis
uell's Island knitt.ng. She wrote
Commissioner Davis, and KIm Da
replied that it was an excellent II
but that the pri?on ?lepar'.ment had
money to buy materials.
The matter was taken up by frier
of Miss Davis, and on the day wh
she lectured before the League for I
iitical Education she asked for a c?
lection for this purpose. All tho
wishing to make further contributio
-d to communicate with Mi
John Porter, 32 Clinton av., Montelal
An American branch of the Englii
Field Force Fund has been MtahltUh?
in this city under tho dir.
Chase Mellon, 2? Cedar st. The obje?
of the fund is to provide trench outfit
for the British soldiers at the front.
The society is under th?? patronage c
Queen Alexandra, Lady French, th
Duchess of Portland, the (ou- ?
Airlie, Lady Henry Bentinck and Majo
?ier.eral Arbuthnot. Mrs. vTitltaa
Selater is honorary secretary of th?
Mrs. Edith Wharton, 63 Rue de Va
renne, Paris, has eent another appeal
for help for tho American Host? '
Refugees in Par.?. Mr=. E iward Tuck
has given a houae with forty bed?, an-i
I omtesso de Berthier has offered
another, accommodating 100. Fund? ar
needed to supply food and medical sup?
plies for those in the hostels. Tho
committee in charge of the host*
eludes Mrs. R. W. Bliss, Mrs. Edward
1 'JCK, .Mr?. >? at?, ---a- . - -
Charles Du Bois, George Monroe a
Henri Dequis.
The fund for the American Amb
lance Hospi'al in Paris amounted y?
tardai ta WOJUR
The fund for the relief af Fren
tvomen and children is now $43,0191
I of the Ifolohei Settlement,
Hawaii, contributed $127'".? to tl
American Commission for Relief
Belgiern yesterday.
Three more Red Cross surgeons wi
sail for the front to-day. They ai
Dr. P. A. Smith, of Enid. Okla.; D
.lohn Mann, of Petersburg, Va., and '
Lyta Hazlett, of Pittsburgh.
The Red Cross fund amounted t
The Committee of Mercy yesterda
designated $26,000 for the relief B
Servia*?, Polish and French victims o
the war.
For relief work here $2.5'.o was ap
There was $14,400 realized from th'
Strand Theatre benefit on December -
The total of the fund is now %o%JS4A \ ?
Miss Louise Erry contributed $2,550 40
Mrs. T. K. Lsthrop, of Ho .ton $2u0, am:
aalaj* NeCet-mich I
The Austro-H jr.p. trian Red Cross ami
Relief Fund amounted
The Dollar Chrrstmas Fund fee
Homelesa Belgians amounted to $30,
01?:. Among the contributors w
C. Bragaw, jr., $310; "The Herald
Democrat," lUS' Anonymou?, $100;
"Wateilaa Courier," $8*, anu ( It
There is a large increase :n the num
ber of women who are in need of the
patronage of the Women's Exchange, at
Madison sv. and It.) at The Chnst
ma? sale which started yesterday af?
fords women of mean? an opportunity
g the women who are earn
? of needle
Greenwich Vfllaft Small Act
ors Rehearsing Busily.
1 Iren il ? Village are
? pwieh
play i- Chile?! "The Chr I
?ho ?. "li 'he li?
The little actors ar SI are
^-oach"d by Mrs. A Leoo .r 1. Another
group ?if children w-ill sir.g Chr
lev, end ,i third group
?vi 11 ted to the
?.?.. Bouth
terta nmen*.
Ho?| * llttfa
in the way of carols.
Wan'o.i. s??- ... ? a
? sa ar.d ttn
?y un the after
sr 24.
The party : i ?.. he a? the home of
lartl ? I' i Rallasa, ~~ East
It. and it is to be by Invitation
? only. Ami in order thai Mrs. liallam
may get thl who really
ips wouldn't
have one ?he is ask ng
i through tho newspapers that those who
to her, sending
?their names and addroooSB. Then she
Dvitatieus to the first acven
ty-five who apply.
It is to bo a real old-fashioned Christ
: mas pal 'j. | . good
thing? to oat, i r.'l a big Christmas
for 1 .????
A Woman's Decision
Get the
Original ?r.j Genuine
The Food Drink for All A ici
Not ?n ?any Milk Trust
t?sT Insist on "HORLICKS"
Tako o pockaf? boms
Soften the Skin
That Housework Hardens
Your hand??do they get harah and
red from the daily d'?hwaahlng and
other homi duties ?
Yo^r face- does the cold and damp of
winter ca.se it to chap and redden?
Give your ?km the help It Is crying
for?give It VELOGEN.
Apply thla pleasant and ?uro hslp lib?
erally to face and handa on retiring?
and again In the morning?wiping away
what Is !eft after a gentle rubbing. The
dry. harah ?kin welcome? It eagerly and
la mad? more aoft, smooth and sightly.
VCL.OGEN does not stain?nor doea
It grow hair?but It smooths and
aoothrs the skin.
At any drt.g atore?25c a tubs.?AJvt.
111,. ' -Ulm??
i-..l . ? itui. \n
? - . lv- ft Kl-xtta,
.' . '-??utlful
.1 ?4~?-1?JU.
' it* LauUiif.
I aat-aSral?) lu 1 fith.
JaUULLS, .ij 1U? Aft.

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