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New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, February 07, 1915, Image 29

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83030214/1915-02-07/ed-1/seq-29/

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Dressi.maM.ers Invent Fresh and
?uaint Accessories forThisCos
tume, the Newest Being' Collars
Made of Chiffon and Skunk,
I-Tr.s' ' hi. Their Outline.
THIS '.rige suede ?loth auit a?? end? from fulness to
str??gf.t simplicity, from the otter bordered skirt
to the loose coat bottom. Even the sleeve, emu
??ting the bishop, is not exempt from a corresponding
I SAW ? -. m evening frock which I heard fitly
de?- : ? very famous actress as "a little
It wa? . -so original and yet so wear
? - new silken tissues.
*iich havC s..- ething ol a chifl?n surface and which
lrt <>?~ - ..pple. The color was a rich
??as. o| ? ? , Hi:rj silver threads ran
through the material here and there, giving it a shot
**?t. There was a very wide petticoat of silver lace
?hich showed for several in?.hen under the dress
PNpei T ? one 0{ ,he new ideas, and it is really
?"?a.tive Of course, the transparent petticoat must
'?M ?hew - be unduly remarkable, but the
**"*"e line - ? . ;ate looks charming when it hides
^ yet ditjj,,-.-. the feel and ankles
The blue quite full, especially at the hem.
*! the waist n was finely gathered and confined by
'???hue er lace and skunk. Then the corsage.
??*-Kh wat o? the simplest order, was made of chiffon
??Bated ove- flesh pink silk and silver lace, and the
"???"ves were long, tight and transparent, as are all
**?? conducted sleeves ot the immediate moment.
T-*?s is a model which I recommend with confi
****?? h '.% absolutely new, and it would certainly
^e becoming to any one possessed of a moderately
l*n'ler figure
I. transparent sleeves are to be seen on very
"?"y of the new models; those intended for afternoon
* *fll as evening frocks. On the more elaborate din
r,er towns these sleeves are made of beaded tulle or
netted chiffon, and they are quite tight from elbow
Jjht. an invisible row of tiny hooks and eyes fa*
J*"1* them on the under seam. For more simple
T**? the sleeves are made of ? liifton and lined with
*??***? material in a pale ?olor or with lulle. For
*** ?mis these long sleeves look charming when
?birred from shot !drr to wrist and i hed off with
.? ? uphke uift whi? hid nd. It is i
sidered specially ?. rrect t<> have lee ves ?'i this order
accompanying a ilr?ol!r-rr ..- ige I mean -i corsage
which opens in a deep V at the ha. k as well as in fn nt.
It really neems as though the Paris dressmakers
were determined to rrake the indoor gownt of the
present season things <f very real beauty and charm.
They seem always trying I enl omething fresii
i.nd dainty for trie- t - pie, the new collars
made of chiffon and skunl These <]ii<nr-.t a? ? essories
have been invented for tire expn ?S purpose of making
a flattering frame for a pretty face. They .ire curi
ously unexpected and, f?->r the greatei part, they seem
to have no special connection with the rest of the
gown. 1 ? -? ' -"in around I e e ist ? ? pearl
. ollar might be
necktie. Some ol these I .? Medici out
line, and they air very i ??? tened in in it by a
band oi velvet ribbon and ? - rooch.
Collais of l ete evening
bodices as well as .?
Very many oi the new evening fri - onflned
over the hips by ?i handsome l! rxantine ? einture or
girdle. This ceinture is made - f em
broideied material, v?!??;? h lies close to the figure and
holds down the generous fol Is of a fu Some
of the leading cire nakei s in ire
ducing a hip ; ash wh Byzantine
This sash is cleverly wound r? r a j ?t be
low the waist, and the t '? with
handsome tassels, are knotted in front rhe effe t oi
these wide hip sashes on very full skirt - uliar
The fragile material? l below the hip line almost
like the tulle And the
tact that all the rev skirt-, are remarkably short as
well as tu': adds to f
Some of the Idressi outline
- hair is dr? ind hi d down
?at bands of ei r cut jet I d<
not mean any: ig like thl ? if two
year? i| ern head ol to-day
another order, very mt ? si btle and e
Tu all i iicnmstanres the hair is now dressed cloie to
the br.t?!. a*?d it is only slightly waved, if waved at all.
? rfiort ?s made to obtain a natura! appearance.
("or ordinary wear the coitfure is very plain. The hair
's brushed until it shines like ?pun silk, and it is so
slightly waved that no one, not even a cousin of the
female persunsion. would dare to suggest the inter?
vention of waving irons. Two very small side lock?,
dainty kiss curls, ate permitted to shadow the ears,
but the test of the hait is softly drawn away from the
forehead and fastened at the back of the head with
the ."?i of tortoise shell combs Nothing could be more
simple than this style of hairdressing, and yet it rep?
r?senos everything that is newest and most popular.
I have just see-i a -vhite velvet hat which seemed like
a deli, i? us hri aid of spi ing.
It was the creation of a famous milliner in the Rue
I- ? le and the sp.ape was that of a modifie! sailor.
RICH m colorir? ?nd h IW?ng??| I""? " 'll'? "?'.
ered fit? W Ir.mmed ??it. The velvet il of .op,,?,
<0|?r and the skirt* elahorate yoke mi?.
.. in ?lad and dull ?old metal threads.
/'TRAt H II. ?ai? ..f line characterises this outre hrow
Vj liroaili loth coat, self-swathed at tha low girdling.
- ' w ..to domed and the flat brim wu
overed with ivory white velvet.
hat had a little cockade made of
a.oire ribbon and sable. The hat was ?CCOm
? ? h> one of the new neck arrangements which
aie composed of double chiffon frills held in place by
i-id ol tur. In this case the frills were in white
? lined adth bla.k and the fur consisted of a
* i .and.
Neck ruffles and tours de cou are more fashionable
-.-? : t-v may indeed be said to be ubiquitous.
dainty decorations are made in many different
? ir? l.'ii'hed with full frills; others are
merely I fur with a coqueti?h rosette or
flowei placed at one side. And these little neck ar
langemcnts are worn at all hours of the day and even
..nd with ?impie as well as elaborate gowns.
A really charming idea is embodied in a neckpiece
;a?ie of ermine, which is now so often worn with
le lleta evening frock?. Two small ermine skins form
tiie tie, aid some of the m,>re expensive models are
istf ri at one side with a Louis XIV bow of black
civet and i diamond buckle. Fnch in the natural
?Itade is also popular tor necktie? ot this order and to
is mi.ik.
FOR ?prinf a prominent fealur? will bo ?he three-piece
?uit with it? eminently ?mart, ?h?rt and aleevele?!
coat The akirt? are full and the coat? plain in line,
? ? in thit r?j?t red ?uede cloth, with il* black and broma
A CHARMING dinner frock i* tin?, in ?traw colored
mouateline de soie over taffeta. The embroidery
on band*, (trap* and wide girdle i* in ?teel and dull
Indian colora.
At the present moment one of the most populat
toques is the close-fitting shape made of black velvet
and trimmed, rather high, with large flowers. These
toques fit right down on the head and they lie close
to the hair after the manner of a bathing cap.
A rather fascinating model was trimmed with a
very large poppy made of beautifully fine silver gauze.
The petals of the flower were lined with white chiffon
and the centre was made of cut jet. The toque itself
was shaped '.ike a mob cap. with a high supple crown
circled by a velvet frill.
I saw a similar toque made of Bordeaux-red mir?
ror velvet?which had the soft crown circled by a sort
of ceinture made of dark red glove kid. This band
was fastened at the left side with a buckle set with
clear red stones. It was a very simple model, bus
eminently chic.
A rather startling novelty in the millinery world
consisted of a Russian turban and tour de cou made
of panther skin and lined with tete de negre chiffon.
The turban was absolutely plain?that is to say. it
was untrimmed. The shape was round and close fit?
ting, like the caps worn by skating professors, and
the necktie was straight and rather narrow At the
left side this tie was fastened by a beautifully made
rosette in tete de negre velvet ribbon; In the centre
of the rosette there was a topa? rimmed with jet.
Torpedo-shaped toques continue to be fashionable.
These models are becoming to the majority of women,
and they have a specially attractive appearance when
worn with severely plain tailor made costumea.
The newest torpedo toques are made of black or
dark blue velvet and also of imitation breitschwanr
and musquash. Monkey fur is sometimes used on these
toque? and with good results. Personally I do not
very much care for this curious fur, but it is undeniably
popular. Some of the new sailor shapes in black silk
beaver have a fringe of black monkey fur round the
For everyday wear Russian toques made of nut
brown velvet and bordered with musquash are charm
?:-.g These comfortable caps are trimmed with a clus?
ter of Parma violets placed directly at one side, or with
? very dark crimson rose framed in black velvet leaves
A heavy make of black satin is being used for Indian
turban toques, and the only trimming takes the form of
a flat cocarde made of pauletted tulle?m jet.

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