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New-York tribune. (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924, March 02, 1919, Image 63

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Is the Standard of Living Going Un With Its Cost?
"Things \rv Not
What They Wvrv
In ?/v Day"
it? DEEMS vi il it if
f | 'tu i . nal of li\ tiic i ? I'l.inp up , is
I ; ?m.im .1 ni |l\ mi; gulnu up
they used to be. Women didn't eat 20
cent Hungarian froulash at a dairy lunch
in a $3.20 pink chiffon waist twenty-five
winters ago.
To-day there 13 no common sense
standard in dress for women workers. In?
stead, minimum attire is the rule, and
the 200,000 breadwinners, female of
the spee'ies, now boardinp" in New York
observe i!. in fact, it's observed all the
way round.
Consider ?my young pirl who at this
moment in the subway is inserting her
elbow into your ribs, and then consider
her grandmother. Her prandmother's
elbows weren't, so sharp. They were
concealed, wt'iippcd lip, Stowed away be?
neath ii lone ."ii't'vt"! undershirt ami ?i
it'i'i' ?leo, ?.?i lining iw\t\ ;i !"!'!? sleeved
Woollen dl'fsS,
I .i\ ni)'' i" Ini'b fot' I In sliip?' it I ! o lili ?. .
bul i<? pin? In ?in,- Iiip,b" SI,., i i m?!
.tilt.i i-i -di.' lt\ i!t( un Ib.- ful ni' l lio
hind, i ut t'niiit'i mi ti,,. Hid* .,)? ti 'i in.
W I II'' '?' PHI'S I II'' mol o -lie |..'i , t 1 .?i i!
\ I li?' pt.f V, oliiili'it i lot llt-it | m lio
Ho h i'.i'ii'hl itinl ilni'iiliilil y i'o down,
i be pon?' princesa In i ii" fu ir y title, whose
. stepmother sends bei' ont m i be ? i m-i
u Inter nlr in bunt ni rawborrles dro?sotl
m u slip of (?Haue paper, wni!, if hbe bud
I only known it, inore of a fnshl?tlrlbh
than u stepchild.
Regard the budget of a ?0 n week
looking giil of to-day, Nine dollars n
week makes $-1liK u year, und bow II la
distributed is shown in the accompany
ing table compiled by the Consumers'
League of NVw iforlt < 'ity.
The size of a dollar lo-day is not what,
it, wan in 1914. (?overnmont. (iguroR show
that since 1014 the cost of living in New
York Stnte has increased (12 per cent.
Clothing for women has gone up 112
im i' i int, food ?g OH i" r eettl more t ban
ii irml t u I.. . fuel noil light .'?' |iei cent,
i m1 incid? I l! ' [iei t't'lit,
in h tt pair to 11"' $!Jfi u '?? ' ' i
n null in, ; v. oil it. mid lil.ov. ir'.o to t lin
I'll t I, ". ||t( i eel I mi' I?II a week l.i'liiml
I! eiilltll i I'
In il nu |'vi Of I 00 ' I" H' ''m m b'"l
\ ctirly '"til Weekly Undgi
I1.i uni .
I.i.' .' n du .
i in i.ii i ni 10 ceni'l .', du)
I .a iiii.lt ? ...
('lull t 'in. nil nu below.
'.' hill !. :? I', 110
I 1' on! ! 111! . II.
1 wool skirl. .i.-ir,
: v. m t si. 6.00
: poll leoali. 2.70
i corset. ,70
', . oi set covers.... .". mi
:' combinat Ions .... 1,50
:: shirts. 1.00
2 tlr.'.worn.. 1.00
2 nightdresses. 2.00
Sickness, dentist, insurance, pleasure, at
j rooming houses the Consumers' League
found that ,$.1 a week was the minimum
price at, which a clean or respectable fur?
nished room could be had. For running
water or for a gas plate for cooking you
had to choose either accommodations so
dirty that they were uninhabitable, hall
i bedrooms over saloons, or skylight rooms
with no windows.
Fifty restaurants in the factory dis
j triets of the city, according to this sur?
vey, are divided into three general types
of eating houses. The dairy lunches are
run for the most part by Hungarians,
serve4 "r?gulai- dinners" only, and charge
Mi) cents foi "un nnd coffee, :' for pie
.?!M'l 10 f"i Boitp, whli h 'i-n?? he "--i-"' ?!
in llfteen ?if i he " lioi I ui iIpi " I'esleu
iinit". no it em-, {-ei listed foi l? s? i han |0
. .i.l'-. ? ? e,?l ??up ?., ,| |)|| Vit) I I'f Hl"
fuoil Items tu**1 ' 'iniiiiniii loits !? in in
iljuii'r-i 11 un? ni i'? m i tinlni h ni '" . e??1 ".
<t* of a piuWcih \\ orker
Wank Van i
i ? i i? ? m
Uli ;l '"
.... . . . I?! on
I "., ?i.? mi
(1 tucking? l! '.' i
"? ".Inn B, IllCllld mi'
repairs 13.fid
l i-ubboi'i i Oil
" pnii s of glo? ?? ? l .".->
Itibboim .
(I handkerchiefs, l ftu .
Hairpins, 'tooth
brush and tooth
paste . I 00
id all Incidentals. .20 10.40
$0.00 $468.00
sausages at 25 cents and Irish slew at
20 ( ciils. in all these places eggs are '20
cents and omelets .'JO cents.
The third type of restaurant, repre?
sented by the Automat, is slightly bet?
ter, but more expensive. All items on
their bills of fare are 25 cents and over,
excepting pie and soup at 10 cents and
potato salad at. 1 5.
In Childs' restaurants, where former?
ly working girls used to be found in such
numbers, you scarcely fee them at all
now, for there all substantial items of
food range from 'J? cents to 40.
In lull the official m in i m urn figure
' foi ! Im item of ! u.' It m 'in budge) of n
.orking girl was I? cents, I a day this
'mil Olllj tlllow b"l t) tun of i oll'ee ?lll'l
ill i .o- -i lunch ?? hlch w ould earrj
111 ' i In ..iir.b n ltlll{j -Itr. ? ... i ni li'iisl
. . I nl - inn ? IH1W be allow cd There
It |'|i .i-t in-lit ? |.t i ?, Hi I OUR m t :.. I H Ionic '
111 11) I '' US i III i p V PI ?' m t ?tt| Lieh. ' m
V,ul i :,. ,. n | i,vho Im : " hub| I.m I on
t.i i'.' 'ii ivlm hu? in livi in n hull
I i 01)10 W'it 11 OU I 'i Povo. I be girl IS bo
pul ,i m. ' ? I in t hit nnd ill a". : a renl
pit-it' iif piii when ihn I'l'cl luxurious, it*
II no i i i who wool's -it!, i ticking*,
plnl "..i" nrnieiil! und eiiilTon wiiists,
W h.\ ? I lui 11UB? t lie> Ufe 'help lllltl be
can '? l Im \ arc In si \ le, Sa; M I a b?mily
I futchinson, of Barnn nl ? 'ollege ; "Fif
leen yonri" ago n lailorecl suit und white
gloves vvns dress up for n reception, but
i h a I i no longer t rue to-day, IV. renies
of dross have roino In partly as u resull
of fashionable dressmakers, The Ameri?
can manufacturer was quick to Invent
ways and means of imitating them.
I Cheap, just-aa-good, flimsy garments are
made fashioned after the habits of the
I rich." To-day a stenographer goes to
work dressed in nn imitation Sherry's
for-lunch costume. It, is dinphnnnus, be
! cause that, is the fashion, and every self
respecting woman follows the fashion.
There is a certain psychological reason
i for this. A woman feels "euit of it" if
I she is not in style. Thai clothes make the
; woman is even truer than that clothes
make the man. If the present styles go
; on to their logical conclusion, there is no
. doubt, that it will become "clothes break
! t he woman."
Cr?pe de chine has usurped the place
of flannels: flimsy is the wear of ihe day;
! everything is peek-a-boo, and by its nat?
ure is likely to tenr, rip and disappear
? under the strain of everyday wear.
Take the question of shoes
shoes are getting thinner, We pay $8 ' i
ihrjei that aie thin soled Slid high
heeled In the ,,h! dftyg a pall of
for |6 would Iftpl longer il"*, would
bin tin . .??i i-..i ,i an K of i hem you
threw iiii'in nui Te dey h wei kin
pnjsa ... |i I'm *-!""? . while In i
mu? hei pin,I :" | .,? : - : l-. hfl i n i-/?-,
twice m mm h i or t epsli Inn ? !i i
IIUlllUM li."I lU, ii'i'l lilt' In-'' I ?' llH\ '' her
i,,.? - i ? pul? ?'.i i v. |i e aj often i l
?ini'ltiiiK i;n Is use i hree 01 four pel of
shoes n j ear. With many of t hem I
constan! question whether it Is cheapor
to pay iiirfai'?' am! save your shoes or
save your carfare ami have your shoes
Take the question of stockings, flloi k
inga used to be good, old thick" merino
things thai were mndc of wool mid iron,
and lasted many moons, Then the col on
'docking came Into being, and to-day
everything is silk or near-silk. It is ?r
ritating to buy cheap silk stockings that
ravel and disappear while you're on your
wny to work, leaving nothing but an ir?
reparable hole.
"I used to get lisle and cotton stock?
as T e DH**^J>^^ ?STOc^
/ 7 / m s\ ? 'a / fr * ? f / ri /1 *
H ear t ri?7 //
Dor Mi 7 II #'*/r
lllgi It. "!??! I "" i ' ' ' ' " I
; . i .i e i -11 m >' i" i h ?? i
i ? m In .I ib.i 111
" i.. 11 i . ? i i ml (Hi ce n t-s is I he
/ SHE, M 11 '. | \
" r\ '"l|l,T
very best I can do, and I simply can't
keep them mended."
Consider the nightgown as it used to
be, buttoned up to the neck, with long
warm sleeves. It was a monument of
durability. Then contemplate the lingerie
of to-day. Well - it's not a lasting object.
(?one is the serviceable (.'arment. Van
ished arc the flannels, the chest protec?
tors; obsolete ?a the petticoat; le dernier
cri is next to nothing at all.
Has any one suggested ns a panacea
for the high cos? of living a return to the
ancient r?gime of the durable garment,
a renascence of clothes for c
[GH up in an office building on
lower liftli Avenue is the
snuiio of "The Little Lady of
the Looms.'' It is a great big
flooded with sunlight and filled
with wooden looms?big looms, little
looms ami middle-sized looms, some of
foreign make and some of home manu?
facture; some that stand on the floor
and arc operated with treadles; some
thai may be placed upon a table and
i with the hands alone, and one
quite extraordinary little une, flie baby
?if them all, which may be held by n cord
fasten? "1 around one's waist, or, if one
happens tu he a -Wounded soldier lying
'ti i hospital ward, it may be tied to
one's bi <:??? -.
Il fifteen years since "The Little
I ?'i'!-, of t> ' i o?ttifl" rame to this country
from Bwedi m bringing among bet other
?*\'i large wnoden hand-looms
ind the 'im.int eld wooden stand which
h.? l'.-"' i, i;i nti.lir.nl lir?f |i!*r| tl--.n,| fin
-, I . ?II I?,,m, !l. i-ur 3 Mm
- ? ' ?? llltlr ll.'.-le- I ?II linll.l
I bin .'i,Mill I V lill^'H I fill h rt-.fi,
lu i ' i -, i itii?-. !.!t,i,', ..i Hi.- Looms"
i eel litiiii. -, 1 muy aj ?veil (ill yon,
I i JUST between meal", but. we
B have ham ami eggs, sand
pie and isn't, that the
*ute?t. design on ymir shoulder 1 Looks
college fraternity pin, doesn't it?
if? It's too had that, they won't
i ave one on the other shoulder,
would sort of balance up so much
better, but I suppose it's against the
r the War Department. I'm the
? - son in the world, but I
t};.t l think they try to make
the boya (Ires.-; just as unbecomingly as
ibly can, and, of course, it's
Bothin*-' m the world but jealoui-y on
their part, because they didn't really
Have hny part in the war themselves ex
eept to git up in Washington and read
< tters and cut out every
<u of news in them. Look at the over
"-??a caps, for instance; aren't they a pcr
"fecl scream? They remind me of the
??P?r hula that we used t/> make when
*e were kiddies. T'll bet. if you folded
them just one?? more they'd come out a
pair -
A Silk Buyer Makes a
Wonderful Color Sergeant
What ?liviaioii did you say? The
Well, that is funny! You must
have been camping right, beside my ?is
???trV brother-in-law in France, for he's
in the 70th. Vou must know him, a big,
nlor.d chap and a perfectly awful kid
Wi though I will say ins letters are the
?i"/-, interesting things that, you ever
'"?-i in nil voui Ufa, All full ?if re?! in
?ide Information; you see, he's been
'??fully elote to Perilling from the
A***', pud i ?-mi r?n,! between the llnei
**!?' Pershlng bus relied n great deal on
?* h ,. ? - the rank? oh, you mean
is Miss Elna de Neergaard) found it
difficult to secure pupils in this line of
handici-aft, and so she pushed the old
wooden looms into the furthermost cor?
ner of the big room and turned her
attention to basketweaving and metal
work, both of which, by the bye, she
taught at Teachers College.
And then there came a day when some
one made the discovery that the wounded
men in the hospitals overseas were far
happier and got well much more fluickly
if they became interested in some; form
of work, anil among Other handicraft
revivals came that of weaving oil the
j old wooden frames which are to be found
In the cottages of the peasants of almos)
I every country of Furope. Weaving be
? came the favorite occupation of the
WOUhded ami disabled soldiers, especially
I those Who bail bectttne blinded in battle,
Olid who, by (he wa4, bernme real e\
pe-rf?, j,, ||1r. ai I
When the idea was breiat bed of Intro
du.'int? hand weaving Into oui" mili?
tary hoipltali "The Little Lady of the
i.niiiitV i ame in'ii in-i own .'.lu- roiiii.-.i
I'luatiea among the girls who wen atudj
lug fcfl bi-t'oniH it con-11 in I Ion h le|-t timl
fvpet l- I.pnlloiinl llu-i ii|i',' in I Im
Heard *
' his title. He is color sergeant to the
American Expeditionary Forces, bunny,
| isn't it, the way men fall into their own
i grooves in this war. Take Bill, for ox
! ample; he was buyer for a wholesale silk
1 house before he enlisted and, of course,
be knows colors like a book. He's very
! far-sighted, too, so he was just the man
I that they needed to stand on top of the
trenches and tell the general when the
German flag camo in sight, for it must
' have been awfully hard for them to tell
the French from the German flag in the
. distance, so Hill had a pretty important
i responsibility.
Oh, Sal! When the Bullets
Hit the Hot Fat
But you must be hungry ham and
| eggs, sandwiches, doughnuts; oh, that
reminds me, Bill is just perfectly crazy
about the Salvation Army. Ho says
they were just wonderful over there.
He says he's seen them frying dough
nuts in the trenches when the bullets
were dropping into-the frying pans'by
the dozens. He says they made a most
terrific racket when they hit the. hot
fat. You can imagine that they
would, of course. But, he says, those
, Salvation Army girls never batted an
e-ye?; they just, fished the bullets out of
the fat and threw them over into No
Man'; Land and went mi with their
I can't imagine, though, how they
could fry enough in those small pans to
feed our millions and millions of troops,
and, iuct between you und me, t don't,
|,?heve that they ever did. I'll bat thnt
if the truth ever came out you'd find
that they Jil I fried them for Pr railing
j and Ml ?'A"' ?n'1 bOUfht ready mnde
I unes fur the eonim'iti Soldier.? from the
i 111 e
! military hospitals and (aught them to
' set up the warp and to weave all soils
r\' interesting materials on the old
wooden frame.-.
Weaving proved to be just as popular
an occupation in our own hospitals as
j it had been in those neross the seas; in
? fact, the men who go in for Ibis kind
1 of work become bo fascinated 'with it that
i it is difficult to persuade them to leave
l il for the required intervals for exercise,
and as for eating and Bleeping these
i are of minor importance compared with
the fascination of Watching an intricate
i pattern grow under one's shuttle.
It seemed a pity thai this occupation
? was possible only for those who were
. able lo sil before the wooden frame and
work the (readies with their feet. Now,
? The Little Lad$ of the booms" nos
Besses a combination of qualities that Is
'?ne among women, for nol only l< In
an ailiol to bn|- finget* ll|1M ami all expel?
In all bram lies >?!' llrttltlii I'M ft) bill (die
ban mut tin., hani. a I gPlllll I HS Well
plu? ?-ni aheul i" Impiil\ mid atlanl <lie
obi fut? 111 ' m I liai It ' "ni'i In '? "' i eil ? o
11 ? i I - I.-. littinl by iiiean- "I pulley-- Mill
i..? sal ..h n lubie nu ?le pu i h ni'.~i I't'i
1 \\ bib' i hi. loom mini << king fell
- want, it still ?cas not practical for nil ?
cases, for there were many would-be.
weavers in those 'eng, white hospital
wards who were not able to sit upright
in bed, but who could be propped up at
a slight angle by pillows, and for these
"The Little Lady of the Looms" had a
real inspirai ion. She designed what she
calls "the belt loom,'' a little wooden
frame threaded like any other loom,
which can be attached to the bedpost.
The invalid holds the warp at right
it the Canteen ? A Mc
bakorles In some of the little towns on ! vpo;*'! If you're, real hungry you poor Bill isn't very Btrong for the Y. M.
the firing line. ! thing; not sime morning? Then I'll C. A He calls ii Lhe You Must Come
Lei m?' see, did you say ham and ; see that you get an extra big order. Across society. Ami the stories that I
e rom the American Prd. Cro**, Paris.
"When (iood Fellows tief Together"?At Marseille?, Prance.
Hrrr are ?Oine t>| the folk? who won the war and ?ome of the folk? for whom it wm won. An American Red Cro*?
vl-iiitii-f nurtei ail Ameritan dnuRbboy, who can cuddle a baby with on? arm and fifiht for it with the others end a typical
; ron? b woman, fino of face, ?turd y ?onled end brawny armed, who aUo helped to "In.Id the line." A fin? crowd, any way
i you look at I!.
angles to his che:;! and weaves all sorts 1
?of attractive belts and hatbands and
bags for the girl "back home."
These belt looms are already in use in
several of our military hospitals and it
is only a question eif procuring laborers
to manufacture them in greater numbers
before the others will be supplied with
It is needless to say that the big,
? s?rMiy room is a very busy place these
( days, for what with the classes for tin4
reconstruction aids and for the blind, be?
sides numerous private pupil-. Miss de
Neergaard has very little spare tin.n
her hands? The work which she has
dntio, ami is still doing, among the blind
bas been bei' Bperial delight, and she I
i point"- to these afflicted one-" rp, her most
satisfactory pupils. Their infinite caw
ami patience and their nbsolutt follow?
ing of her Instructions are very gratl
fyittg \ ? a mat bei of r'n I. M Isfi de
Neergaard'a only asslstanl ni the pre?'
mi time i" a weman who ha-* been blind
no,,, , in!.h,m.,i, but who, omiei in" eai'i
Tul line. In.n. Into I.e. .tin.? on! ...if u.
. ,,n?i i wot kei. but an Rble instt uotei '
III lllr! (fentle Oil "I " i <?' '"' "- ?M II
Although slit1 Ih eil in I weden for ?
hear from some of the boys that eal
here are just simply unbelievable.
The Multimillionaire
And the Lady's Maid
Why, a fellow told me only yesterday
?he was such a sweet boy, too, with
the most interesting history?he just
, told me everything about himself. He
: said bis father was a multimillionaire
and he fell in love with his mother's
j maid, and his father turned him right
! out in the cold without a nickel to his
! back, and just then war was declared
' and he felt it his duly to go and fight
! instead of marrying the girl, and the
day after he came back he met his
i father right on Fifth Avenue and he
I just cut him dead. You couldn't blame
! him after the way he had been treated.
His father called to him?you see, he
1 had one of those pinwheel things on bis
I shoulder like yours, and bis father knew
| that he must have done something
; pretty heroic to get it?but he just
; would not make up with him, and I don't
blame him, and what do you think, the
| girl married the chauffeur while he was
: in France. Sad, isn't it?
The 100-Franc Wristlets
! And Grandmother's Card
But what did I start to tell you? Oh.
it was ham and eggs, wasn't it? Or was
it doughnuts? Yes, I remember. Well,
you must be starving if you haven't
eaten since morning. Oh, 1 know now,
it whs the Y. M. C. A. The Young Wen's
Commercial Associ?t ion, this ?hap calla
it. Well, he told me that his pal was
sick and needed wristlets. I don't know
just what wa- the matter with him, but
j the doctor ordered wristlets- Immediately,
? ami this dear, sweet boy blond, he Is,
great many years, "The Little Lady of
the I.". " of Dai - birth, and she
has taken as 1 he Irademark for her looms
the old Runic word "Tawido," winch
means "< ?cecuted," or "decorated."
All Borts of materials and all surfs of
patterns are woven on the "Tawido"
looms, from (In* v. idi for tables
and rurniture ci to t he narrow
;i|ii- nu?! woollen itbai which can
i?, m,,- ? - : und rrom Um simple I
Ik i ringbone pat t ern to ! he in! ? 1? at? old
Swedish di it is 1 tmwn n<** "ml'"
p.p.- and snuil' I rail," niid ?*. hi' h Is onl -
tniiglil m - grad?ate" t out
One ha ? i ; t? watch her as t he pi i
itldea ovei ! ' ' orkshop
i |*aiijthti nlng out h f angli I Itlg a
pupil ;" I he propel - ?? ' lying the
threads o ei lh little w oodi n frame
j ? t ?* T-il" ''' lU etti'lfi Up" ? !""'"
drawing m diflli "|f pnttei n ? n Ihe little
?? ,|?i:? 11 : , ' |.;.... ? - i??, i. -i ? in guide an
, I |. , '? ,,l 1 . I , ... , Kiln- I?. I- ' .- I l.r ,-i <;.'
.b '? ' "? hi grai l"-"; hi -
?, | | I | | |11 ? - . . i ? ? i ? ? ? 11 '
i in, i in ? '..i ? ?? i I uve i hit of
?I, |T,- (I'll-.
? .? "Till I :' I I? I ,H(|j 111 I I?'*
I ... III,-."
wit h t he cut? st smih off? red t o walk
to the near, st b . M ' . A .
twenty-seven and n half kilometres
I wi.it?--. er h< are) awaj and
It w as blov il y a ; ? '.-/.uni and
snowing something awful, bul he would
do anything for a friend -that's the
kind h?.- i*? (I'm going to take him to the
Hippodrome to-night), so he started out,
and, do you know, the V .'?!. C. A. had
just, one pair of wristlets left, and he
look them without stopping to think
whether they would be bei oming or not,
and he paid, I can't remember, how
many hundred francs for them, ami b?e
started back for his headquarters ?>
camp or billet, or whatever he called it,
and it took him hours and hours to
plough through the drift,?; it was pitch
dark by this time, and, do you kno,v, af?
ter all this, when his friend opened the
package out dropped a card, ami on it it
said, "Will the soldier who retenes
these wristlets write to the address be?
low."' and, would you believe it, it was
his own grandmother's name'.'"
? * *
Now I've really forgotten whether
you decided on ham and egge ?>r n sand?
wich. That's just like ; to say
that you are not particular. This war
has certainly been I t thing in
the world for you all. It has just made
men of you. and I'll bet you'll be much
and much handier
around the house than you ever were
before you were M. P.' and knew what
housework meant.
Now it was bam and eggs, wasn't 5t?
! "?i know, f get so Interest?
hearing you boys talk thai if it wasn't
iy heart , I? m my work
I'd lust stand here and listen f? yo\i all
Mam and eggs nrt?l coffee for one. am!
.I" hurry, Mary, for this young man
hasu'l?id i thing to mon Lu*

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