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Question of a Coat
TITH bo many great prub y'w ''*';r,f! a??t?ti?g the world to-day, the question of tha lengt?i t>i a -coat may . .. .-" i. small matter to the casual tihcfiiver. It is not. When we con Paul Poiret's famous Robe? spierre dress developed in black Velvet and girdled with scarltt sider that the making of clothes is the third largest industry in the world, we should hesitate to speak lightly of anything pertaining to it, even those thin?gs which on the surface appear frivolous and of lit ' tie moment. There has been a great deal of ; discuseion as to whether the long i^m^i i^i^h Above (at left)?Martial et Armand afternoon dress of vel? vet with faille ribbon formina Panels and or, ISM) yoke. The un tallie leather roses on the bodice are unusual coat suit would be accepted. It was launched by many of the great i French houses some weeks ago, but as one saw elbowing it in the smart 1 est parades of fashion short bobbing rippling jackets, as well as abbrevi? ated ones that slip over the head '. like smocks, there was difficulty in deciding which would gain in the ; race for fa\or. Now we know defi? nitely that while these full short coats have a great deal of dush, they may only be worn by certain types of women and, therefore, will be ' accepted as a novelty only. So the long coat suit is the fashion of the '? moment. It, as well as the coat dress, is an outcome of the redin ; gote, a garment which never has ! been surpassed in grace. ; Long Coat Suit Is Cheruit's f avorite r?MIE house of Cheruit, always one of the most authoritative homes of fashion, makes the long coat suit to the exclusion of all others. We are fortunate in being able to show you to-day Cheruit's best seller in this type of suit. It has just arrived from Paris and is pictured at the left of the group of two at the top of the page. A ridgy wool cloth something like the old-fashioned Bedford cord is the material used, ami the trimming is "chinchilla lustre petit-gris," which is nothing more than the little gray squirrel dyed in stripes to match as nearly as possible the color and pattern of the real chinchilla fur. This coat, which is very long, fall? ing almost to the bottom of the skirt, is cut with swinging fulness over the hips and fiat at the back and front. It laps widely and fastens on the shoulder. The fur collar is in becoming bib form, rolling com? pletely around the neck. The turn? back .cuffs also roll after the same I fashion. The skirt of this suit, very j narrow and straight in line, tf*-s a '.~ '"". y chemise-like top, developed in vivid ' green cr?pe do chine, with beautiful embroideries of navy bin?: ami sil? ver. Chemise-like Smock Give? I hree-Piece Idea rr,HK attaching of chemist tops to skirts is to curry out the three piece idea described in our fashion article last week. When the skirt has no top attached, but is finished with a belt at the waistline, as some of the models are, a chemise-like smock accompanies the suit to make ; thtee pieces. These smocks are the simplest things imaginable, but alto? gether charming. Sometimes they ? have a little yoke at both b*ck and front, with the lower portion of the smock gathered to it. New russet shades and beautiful yellows are frequently chosen for these blouses, and a fur which blends with the color selected is used in the form of a wide band v.i the bottom, but across the front only, the back being without the fur trimming. Es pecially attractive is one such blouse ; of pale yellow silk banded with I beaver. These short, loose waists furnish ? an idea which may be used by the home dressmaker to make smarter a suit which has not this new three piece effect. The ordering of the three pieces from the tailor means a very expensive costume, whereas making the blouse at home greatly reduces the cost. I Straight Lines Feature | This Doucet Design ? "TkOUCET can always be depended upon to originate something i smart, with a special appeal to the i Parisienne. He has just completed i the suit shown at the right of the : one described. It is developed in '? clear silver gray duvetyn and trimmed with delicate petit-gris. The very Russian-like one-side movement of the coat is new and characteristic of the best models this season. Despite the sling-like panels, which distend the coat at the sides, the figure is given an ex Cheruit s most, popular long ? oat suit developed in a ridgy wool cloth. .1 vivid green crepe de chine chemise bloust makes it a three-piece costume. .1 three-piece suit from Dornet having a long eoat with the neiv one-side movement and chemise blouse of old silver hroeade tremely slender look through the straight lines of the back and front. Doucet completes this suit with a chemise blouse of old silver bro? cade. In a Paris restaurant at noontime one day last week a fashionable French woman appeared wearing til'* frock sketched at the lower ????lit of the page, showing that not every one need don an elaborate dress to look extreme, for this one is a striking example of how sim? plicity can be the very essence of extremeness and of how some of the most daring effects lie in the simplest designs. Silk jersey ?s the fabric used for it and the color is the new copper red. The loose bodice with its slight draping is cut to a point in both back and front. The bottom of the skirt is edged with fur banding, but the hack panel, which is several inches shorter than the rest of the skirt, is left without the fur, the trimming \ .-(topping at the sides. Gayety and Prosperity Represented in Trimmings I IN REVIEWING fashions it would seem that during the past two ; seasons dressmakers have Hashed one new idea after another before ; our eyes, as if endeavoring to make up for time lost during the war ,' years, when there was little incen ? tive to design clothes. It would ap ? pear, too, that every sort of trim ? ming under the sun has been used ; in this effort to make dress an cx i pression of gayety and prosperity, but not until now have we seen i leather roses on afternoon and even ! ing dresses. Martial et Armand use : them on the black velvet frock at ? the upper left of the page. They | are, however, glorified leather roses, | being treated in a way that gr es ; them a metallic appearance. I This frock is partly made of rib ? bon, for Paris ?-^eni? to be quite ribbon mad, as noted on our page last, week. In this instance, a heavy ; faille ribbon is used in such a way i that ii give- the silhouette to the ! costume, the velvet being little more : than a foundation dress, consisting ' ; of i-, slender skirt and pointed bodi?**e. An impression of the yoke so much \ used in 18:s0 is conveyed by placing bands of ribbon about the shoulders , and extending them down over the I arms in points, the bodice itself be in^ sleeveless, it is interesting to ob ? serve that with all its new features this dress is a very simple one to . make, and one which .'my woman who can sew at all could achieve, which proves that, a dress need not be complicated to be smart. We make a mistake when wo think that a pretty dress means a great amount ; of labor; the success of a costume ! rests entirely on an idea, which may ? be a very simple one. I J Beauty of Color Linked I With Historical Dress : rr,HE contrast between clothes de? signed by a woman and those originated by a man is marked in the j wonderful collection of Paul Poiret this season, a collection which any one at all interested in dress, either for its beauty or its history, cannot I fail to enjoy, for here startling and vivid beauty of color ?s linked with the historical dress of the past and the feelings that are agitating the world at the present day. Poiret's famous Robespierre dress, developed in black velvet and girdled with vivid red, is sketched to-day. The young girl's frock, also pic? tured, is the direct opposite in feel ! ing to the gown designed by this famous soldier couturier. It is a typical Parisian style, exploited by houses catering to the d?butante. To , the romantic days of the gay French court we are indebted for its de? sign. Here are no masterful touches of strong color, but a beautiful blending of delicate tones of rose, blue and silver. Rose net, embroid ' ered with silver in an all-over pat ; tern, falla over a slip of very deli , cate blue, the same shade as th( | casaque, which is blue taffeta. The ; sash is silver ribbon. Social Evening Gowns Are in Many Models COCIAL evening affairs are bring ?? ins inio strong request tw< J hts sinking dresi of coppet red jersey with the Hunt ? ut low in the back was worn ri cently at the lunch hour in . Paris restaurant types of gowns, those for very ceremonius wear with long trains and extreme decolletage and those with short round skins for dan. ? g, Callot is showing a srreut many . ? elaborate evening dresses develi i>??i in combinations of tulle, beaded an?l spangled metal laces and meta! brocades. These models, however, are not so popular in Paris thofse made from handsome fabric? more simply cut and with prac callj no trimming except embroid? tione on the fabric. Doucet maHea an evening dress en long ?-?.eH lines that is entirely covered erith black and blue ?pen* |l< It has b^en well named tfe* moonlight dress. Another forme everinjc gown from the >ame m?i"r presenta a Kleaminjt ?-urface of white bugles, the satin foundation being invi?ible. At the wai*t ?"? strikiiiK'.v placed n ?mail bun?ch Si ; iai?e- formed of j*?t.