New-York tribune. [volume], November 23, 1919, Page 2, Image 34

About New-York tribune. [volume] (New York [N.Y.]) 1866-1924

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Question of a Coat
TITH bo many great prub
y'w ''*';r,f! a??t?ti?g the world
to-day, the question of
tha lengt?i t>i a -coat may
. .. .-" i. small matter to the casual
tihcfiiver. It is not. When we con
Paul Poiret's famous Robe?
spierre dress developed in black
Velvet and girdled with scarltt
sider that the making of clothes is
the third largest industry in the
world, we should hesitate to speak
lightly of anything pertaining to
it, even those thin?gs which on the
surface appear frivolous and of lit
' tie moment.
There has been a great deal of
; discuseion as to whether the long
i^m^i i^i^h
Above (at left)?Martial et
Armand afternoon dress of vel?
vet with faille ribbon formina
Panels and or, ISM) yoke. The
un tallie leather roses on the
bodice are unusual
coat suit would be accepted. It was
launched by many of the great
i French houses some weeks ago, but
as one saw elbowing it in the smart
1 est parades of fashion short bobbing
rippling jackets, as well as abbrevi?
ated ones that slip over the head
'. like smocks, there was difficulty in
deciding which would gain in the
; race for fa\or. Now we know defi?
nitely that while these full short
coats have a great deal of dush, they
may only be worn by certain types
of women and, therefore, will be
' accepted as a novelty only. So the
long coat suit is the fashion of the
'? moment. It, as well as the coat
dress, is an outcome of the redin
; gote, a garment which never has
! been surpassed in grace.
; Long Coat Suit
Is Cheruit's f avorite
r?MIE house of Cheruit, always one
of the most authoritative homes
of fashion, makes the long coat suit
to the exclusion of all others. We
are fortunate in being able to show
you to-day Cheruit's best seller in
this type of suit. It has just arrived
from Paris and is pictured at the
left of the group of two at the top
of the page. A ridgy wool cloth
something like the old-fashioned
Bedford cord is the material used,
ami the trimming is "chinchilla
lustre petit-gris," which is nothing
more than the little gray squirrel
dyed in stripes to match as nearly
as possible the color and pattern of
the real chinchilla fur.
This coat, which is very long, fall?
ing almost to the bottom of the skirt,
is cut with swinging fulness over
the hips and fiat at the back and
front. It laps widely and fastens
on the shoulder. The fur collar is
in becoming bib form, rolling com?
pletely around the neck. The turn?
back .cuffs also roll after the same
I fashion. The skirt of this suit, very
j narrow and straight in line, tf*-s a
'.~ '"". y
chemise-like top, developed in vivid '
green cr?pe do chine, with beautiful
embroideries of navy bin?: ami sil?
ver.
Chemise-like Smock
Give? I hree-Piece Idea
rr,HK attaching of chemist tops to
skirts is to curry out the three
piece idea described in our fashion
article last week. When the skirt
has no top attached, but is finished
with a belt at the waistline, as some
of the models are, a chemise-like
smock accompanies the suit to make ;
thtee pieces. These smocks are the
simplest things imaginable, but alto?
gether charming. Sometimes they ?
have a little yoke at both b*ck and
front, with the lower portion of the
smock gathered to it.
New russet shades and beautiful
yellows are frequently chosen for
these blouses, and a fur which blends
with the color selected is used in the
form of a wide band v.i the bottom,
but across the front only, the back
being without the fur trimming. Es
pecially attractive is one such blouse ;
of pale yellow silk banded with I
beaver.
These short, loose waists furnish ?
an idea which may be used by the
home dressmaker to make smarter
a suit which has not this new three
piece effect. The ordering of the
three pieces from the tailor means
a very expensive costume, whereas
making the blouse at home greatly
reduces the cost.
I Straight Lines Feature
| This Doucet Design
? "TkOUCET can always be depended
upon to originate something
i smart, with a special appeal to the
i Parisienne. He has just completed
i the suit shown at the right of the
: one described. It is developed in
'? clear silver gray duvetyn and
trimmed with delicate petit-gris.
The very Russian-like one-side
movement of the coat is new and
characteristic of the best models
this season. Despite the sling-like
panels, which distend the coat at the
sides, the figure is given an ex
Cheruit s most, popular long
? oat suit developed in a ridgy
wool cloth. .1 vivid green
crepe de chine chemise bloust
makes it a three-piece costume.
.1 three-piece suit from Dornet
having a long eoat with the
neiv one-side movement and
chemise blouse of old silver
hroeade
tremely slender look through the
straight lines of the back and front.
Doucet completes this suit with a
chemise blouse of old silver bro?
cade.
In a Paris restaurant at noontime
one day last week a fashionable
French woman appeared wearing
til'* frock sketched at the lower
????lit of the page, showing that not
every one need don an elaborate
dress to look extreme, for this one
is a striking example of how sim?
plicity can be the very essence of
extremeness and of how some of
the most daring effects lie in the
simplest designs. Silk jersey ?s the
fabric used for it and the color is
the new copper red. The loose
bodice with its slight draping is cut
to a point in both back and front.
The bottom of the skirt is edged
with fur banding, but the hack
panel, which is several inches
shorter than the rest of the skirt, is
left without the fur, the trimming \
.-(topping at the sides.
Gayety and Prosperity
Represented in Trimmings
I IN REVIEWING fashions it would
seem that during the past two
; seasons dressmakers have Hashed
one new idea after another before
; our eyes, as if endeavoring to make
up for time lost during the war
,' years, when there was little incen
? tive to design clothes. It would ap
? pear, too, that every sort of trim
? ming under the sun has been used
; in this effort to make dress an cx
i pression of gayety and prosperity,
but not until now have we seen
i leather roses on afternoon and even
! ing dresses. Martial et Armand use
: them on the black velvet frock at
? the upper left of the page. They
| are, however, glorified leather roses,
| being treated in a way that gr es
; them a metallic appearance.
I This frock is partly made of rib
? bon, for Paris ?-^eni? to be quite
ribbon mad, as noted on our page
last, week. In this instance, a heavy
; faille ribbon is used in such a way
i that ii give- the silhouette to the
! costume, the velvet being little more
: than a foundation dress, consisting '
; of i-, slender skirt and pointed bodi?**e.
An impression of the yoke so much
\ used in 18:s0 is conveyed by placing
bands of ribbon about the shoulders
, and extending them down over the
I arms in points, the bodice itself be
in^ sleeveless, it is interesting to ob
? serve that with all its new features
this dress is a very simple one to
. make, and one which .'my woman
who can sew at all could achieve,
which proves that, a dress need not
be complicated to be smart. We make
a mistake when wo think that a
pretty dress means a great amount
; of labor; the success of a costume
! rests entirely on an idea, which may
? be a very simple one.
I
J Beauty of Color Linked
I With Historical Dress
: rr,HE contrast between clothes de?
signed by a woman and those
originated by a man is marked in the j
wonderful collection of Paul Poiret
this season, a collection which any
one at all interested in dress, either
for its beauty or its history, cannot I
fail to enjoy, for here startling and
vivid beauty of color ?s linked with
the historical dress of the past and
the feelings that are agitating the
world at the present day. Poiret's
famous Robespierre dress, developed
in black velvet and girdled with vivid
red, is sketched to-day.
The young girl's frock, also pic?
tured, is the direct opposite in feel
! ing to the gown designed by this
famous soldier couturier. It is a
typical Parisian style, exploited by
houses catering to the d?butante. To
, the romantic days of the gay French
court we are indebted for its de?
sign. Here are no masterful touches
of strong color, but a beautiful
blending of delicate tones of rose,
blue and silver. Rose net, embroid
' ered with silver in an all-over pat
; tern, falla over a slip of very deli
, cate blue, the same shade as th(
| casaque, which is blue taffeta. The
; sash is silver ribbon.
Social Evening Gowns
Are in Many Models
COCIAL evening affairs are bring
?? ins inio strong request tw<
J hts sinking dresi of coppet
red jersey with the Hunt ? ut
low in the back was worn ri
cently at the lunch hour in .
Paris restaurant
types of gowns, those for very
ceremonius wear with long trains
and extreme decolletage and those
with short round skins for dan. ? g,
Callot is showing a srreut many . ?
elaborate evening dresses develi i>??i
in combinations of tulle, beaded an?l
spangled metal laces and meta!
brocades. These models, however,
are not so popular in Paris
thofse made from handsome fabric?
more simply cut and with prac callj
no trimming except embroid?
tione on the fabric.
Doucet maHea an evening dress
en long ?-?.eH lines that is entirely
covered erith black and blue ?pen*
|l< It has b^en well named tfe*
moonlight dress. Another forme
everinjc gown from the >ame m?i"r
presenta a Kleaminjt ?-urface of
white bugles, the satin foundation
being invi?ible. At the wai*t ?"?
strikiiiK'.v placed n ?mail bun?ch Si
; iai?e- formed of j*?t.